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Quick

Quic
Knits
Jump-start a
spring wardrobe
with two free
designs
B Y C A R R I E B L AY D E S

When there is little time


to sew, inventive basics
like this fast top and skirt
can fulfill wardrobe and
creative aspirations.
Fabrics: Novelty texture synthetic knit
(top), cotton/polyester blend ponte
(skirt), both from Joann stores.

54 THREADS
S
pring is an opportunity to lighten up with feminine waist skirt in a comfortable knit. The paper-bag silhouette has
coordinates after months of wearing heavy winter layers. reappeared on runways as part of the natural-waist and high-
To swiftly add a few seasonal garments to build a sewn waist trend in jeans and bottoms. It is more fashion-forward
wardrobe, here are two coordinate pieces with on-trend appeal. than a traditional elastic waistband, and it is a wonderful show-
The pieces are a cinch to make and to customize for a variety of case for a sash, chain belt, or buckled belt.
looks. Plus, they are made in knit fabrics. Stretch textiles keep These designs are deliberately simple, for when you have mini-
comfort in the equation, even when you dress to look your best. mal time to sew. However, each has potential for refinements
First, I’ll show you how to make a twisted-cowl tank that can and embellishments. Find pattern templates for the designs and
easily be made in a rainbow of colors for a wardrobe basic with fabric and notions requirements at ThreadsMagazine.com.
simple sophistication. It is a great piece to wear under jackets or
cardigans in air-conditioned settings. Carrie Blaydes, a fashion designer and author, now runs a home
On the following pages, I’ll show you how to sew a paper-bag- interiors business with her husband in Louisville, Kentucky.

Twisted-cowl tank
The classic cowl neckline gets an update in this sleeveless design. Look for a knit that drapes nicely. Follow the diagrams from
ThreadsMagazine.com/TwistedCowlTank and draft each pattern piece on paper in the desired size. Transfer all markings.

Add the back neckline facing. Finish the facing’s lower edge with

1 Create the
drape. Fold
4 an overlock stitch. With right sides together, align the facing and
tank back’s neckline edges. Sew the neckline seam.
B
the tank front
TANK FRONT (RS) pattern’s left
A1 A2 shoulder seam
Fold to match the FACING (WS)
A markings.

TANK BACK (RS)


B
Then fold
2 at B, with Trim and grade the neckline seam allowance. Next, flip the facing

Baste.
wrong sides
together.
5 to the tank back’s wrong side, shoulder edges aligned. Baste the
facing and tank back together along both shoulders.
A Baste the
Fold folds in place.

Fold Baste. Baste.


FACING (RS)

TANK BACK (WS)


Turn under the neckline edge at the B
3 opposite shoulder seam. Fold 1⁄2 inch
to the wrong side, and baste in place. A
Assemble the top. With right sides together, align the shoulder
Baste.
6 edges of the tank front and back. Sew each shoulder seam, then
sew each side seam. Turn the top right side out. Press the shoulder
seam allowances to the back. Press the side seam allowances open.
RS Add a narrow, twin-needle or cover-stitch hem.

Bind the armholes. Cut two 20-inch-long by 21⁄2-inch-wide bias or


7 cross-grain strips. Use the binding method of your preference and
a stretch stitch to bind the armholes.

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m A P R I L /M AY 2 0 1 9 55
Paper-bag-waist skirt
This skirt creates shape with its gathered waist and angled
pleats. Look for a knit with body, such as scuba or ponte, for
this design. Draft the pattern from ThreadsMagazine.com/
PaperBagWaistSkirt, and be sure to transfer all markings.

Create the angled pleats. Following the markings,


1 fold over each waistline pleat, angled slightly,
folding both pleats toward center front. Pin in place,
and baste closed 1⁄2 inch below the top edge and
21⁄2 inches from the top edge.

Photos: Jack Deutsch. Illustrations: Rosann Berry. Stylist: Jessica Saal. Hair and makeup: AgataHelena.com. Styling credits: (p. 54) earrings—Natasha (Nordstrom Rack), bracelets—stylist’s own,
Basting Basting

SKIRT FRONT (RS)


Fold the pleats in place

purse—Lulu Townsend (DSW.com); (p. 56) necklace—Anthropologie.com, bodysuit and bracelet—stylist’s own, belt—HM.com, handbag—Kate + Alex Cuffaro (DSW.com),
and secure with basting.

Assemble the skirt. Use an overlock or zigzag


2 stitch to sew the side seams, with a 1⁄2-inch-wide
seam allowance.

Sew the front and back facings together at the


3

booties—Dolce Vida (DSW.com); (p. 57) earrings—Anthropologie.com, bracelet—stylist’s own, pants—JCrew (Nordstrom.com).
side seams. Leave 2 inches unsewn on the bottom
end of one side seam, for elastic insertion.

SKIRT BACK FACING (RS)

This skirt’s wide SKIRT FRONT FACING (WS)


waistband facing
creates an elastic
Sew the two facings together along the side seams,
channel as well as a leaving 2 inches unsewn on one side.
high-waisted effect.

Finish the waistline. With right sides together


4 and side seams aligned, sew the facing to the
skirt’s top edge with a 1⁄2-inch-wide seam allowance.

SKIRT FRONT FACING (WS)

Sew the facing


to the skirt SKIRT FRONT (RS)
with right
sides together
and side
seams aligned.

56 THREADS
Turn the facing to the wrong side, and press. Sew a
5 stitching line 1 inch from the top edge with a stretch
stitch. Sew another stretch-stitch seam 11⁄2 inches lower,
to complete the channel for 11⁄4-inch-wide elastic. Feed
the elastic into the opening in the facing side seam. Join
the elastic ends, sew the channel opening closed, and Cut wide at the neckline
remove the basting. and folded for controlled
drape, the tank has a
flattering cowl.

Basting

SKIRT FRONT (RS)

Sew two stitching lines


to create a channel for
the waistband elastic.

Hem the skirt. Try on the skirt to determine the desired


6 hem length, and shorten as needed to the desired length
plus 2 inches. Turn up and press the 2-inch hem allowance
and blind-stitch or machine-sew with a stretch stitch.

STYLE OPTIONS
For the skirt:
Select another facing fabric: Cut your facing
in a contrasting fabric and adjust the fold to
make it visible along the top edge.
Add in-seam pockets: There is plenty of ease
to accommodate them.
Add belt loops: This style works well with a
belt or sash.
Sew a formal version: Make this skirt from a
glitter knit fabric to wear on a night out.

For the tank:


Add sleeves: Copy an armscye and sleeve
from a pattern.
Buy glamorous binding: Check out fold-
over elastics at a fabric store.
Go long: Extend the hem to the knee, use
high-quality jersey, and this tank becomes a
little black dress.

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m A P R I L /M AY 2 0 1 9 57

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