The Double-Eye
Machine Needle
explore its decorative and utilitarian functions
B Y K at r i n a W a L K e r
E
very family has its share of interesting charac-
ters. In the diverse lineage of sewing machine
needles, the double-eye needle is the candidate
for family oddball. It is currently available from
Schmetz or Bernina, in size 80/12 with a universal
point and, of course, two eyes stacked vertically near
the tip. While its appearance may be unconven-
tional, the double-eye needle has a purpose. The
key to unlocking its potential lies in using different
thread combinations and stitch patterns.
The double-eye needle is intended to carry two
strands of upper thread while creating a single stitch.
Layering threads creates a uniquely textured top-
stitching effect. The creative opportunities for using
Sewing machine settings
These machine adjustments are recommended for using a double-eye needle.
Stitch Length
As with any topstitching, the stitch length should
be increased to make the double stitching more
prominent. Create a test swatch to determine the most
attractive length.
thread tenSion
Loosening the upper thread tension may be necessary
for correct stitch formation, due to the thickness of the
combined threads.
thread Weight
Given the size of the needle and its related eye size,
limit your thread choices to 30 weight (typically used
for hand quilting and bold topstitching) and higher,
including standard sewing and machine-embroidery
60 THReADS
such a needle are obvious, but it does require a few
adjustments and considerations to ensure accurate
stitching. It can also create extralong basting stitches
when used with only a single upper thread.
If you enjoy using fine details to enhance your sew-
ing or prefer to spend less time taking out machine
basting, the double-eye needle is well worth add-
ing to your sewing toolbox. Experiment with stitch
lengths and stitch patterns to make the most of this
unusual tool.
Katrina Walker is a designer, educator, and author
known for her expertise in construction techniques,
textiles, and machine embroidery. KatrinaWalker.com
threads. When placing the thread spools, orient them
so the thread unwinds in opposite directions to
minimize the chance of tangling.
SeWing Speed
The double-eye needle tends to perform better at
slower speeds. Sewing faster may result in skipped or
uneven stitches, as the bobbin thread may not be able
to catch both top threads.
needLe Shape
The universal point makes this needle ideal for most
wovens and knits, but avoid heavy or tightly woven
fabrics that require a stronger or sharper needle. Keep a
good needle threader on hand, as the two eyes cannot
be threaded with an automated threading system.
The double-eye needle’s two eyes are close together, near the point.
 Decorative uses
These basic adjustments and considerations make it fun and easy to create beautiful effects with the double-eye needle.

Straight Topstitching
Use two matching threads to make bold and highly visible
topstitching. With two different colored threads, the stitching has
a subtle blended effect. Thread one color on top, the other on the
bottom, and then switch them to test a slightly different result.

decorative stitching
The double-eye needle makes a stitch with higher relief and
more color variation possible than with a one-eyed needle. Avoid
overly heavy or complex stitch patterns, and keep the stitching
speeds steady and slow. As with all decorative stitching, you’ll
get better results with stabilizer under the fabric for support. For
more information, see “Making Sense of Stabilizers” by Jill McCloy, The double-eye machine needle blends threads in a standard straight
Threads #98, Dec. 2001/Jan. 2002. stitch (top) and stitches a bold, textured triple straight stitch (bottom).

Thread only the top eye of the double-eye needle to create a basting stitch two times
your machine’s maximum stitch length.
Single-thread basting
A novel use for the double-eye needle is to create an
elongated basting stitch. To try this, thread only the
upper eye with a fine sewing thread, between 50
and 100 weight. Select a zigzag stitch, and adjust the
zigzag to its widest and longest setting.
As the machine sews, the stitch forms on one
side of the zigzag, and the other side of the stitch is
skipped. When this works correctly, you can achieve
a stitch length of about 10 mm, depending on your
machine. Be sure to use fine sewing thread, as heavier
threads may not work for this technique.
Even with lightweight threads, the zigzag stitch
may occasionally catch on both sides. This has no
adverse affect on the intended use—basting.

WS RS
Photos: Mike Yamin.

Decorative stitching with the double-eye needle may need stabilizer (left). Stabilizer reinforces the fabric under the doubled thread stitches.

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