TrenchCoat
Appeal
A wardrobe staple forever on fashion’s front lines
bY susan khal Je
I
t makes sense that a water-resistant coat developed in a rainy
country. In 1823 in northern England, Charles Macintosh
came up with a rubber-based substance. Sandwiched
between cotton layers, it made a waterproof fabric. Early dif-
ficulties—the fabric stank and was heavy, stiff in the cold, and
sticky in the heat—were overcome, and demand grew. John
Emary opened a shop in London in 1851 and featured gar-
ments made from his own rainproof cloth, called aquascutum.
Then Thomas Burberry invented gabardine in 1879. Originally
waterproofed with lanolin before being woven, the fibers were
wool or wool and cotton. Gabardine’s tight, twill weave made it
water-resistant and durable. He began using it for overcoats.
DE SI GN E D FO R UTI L IT Y
In his book, Military Style Invades Fashion, (Phaidon Press, 2016)
author Timothy Godbold sums up the history and appeal of
the trench coat: how it was adopted by British officers on the
Western Front in World War I, then by Hollywood icons in the
1950s. From its utilitarian essence—light and waterproof, with
epaulets to display rank and a chest flap to cover a gun—it tran-
sitioned into a glamorous garment. He writes that decades after
the war, “Burberry offered a trench coat in silk taffeta—and the
last place anyone would wear it would be in the rain.”
The raglan sleeve, featured on original versions, is said to have
62 THREADS
been developed by Lord Raglan’s tailor, after Lord Raglan lost
his right arm at the Battle of Waterloo. The range of movement
offered by a raglan sleeve, and the ease with which it can be
shrugged off and put on, made it practical for the one-armed
war hero. Other utilitarian design elements, developed for the
trenches in World War I, are sobering. The hook and eye at the
neck enabled a snug closure, the better to secure a gas mask.
Sleeve end straps buckled tight to keep rain from running down
the arms when holding up binoculars. D-rings on the belt were
used to attach guns, maps, and grenades. The classic beige color
was good camouflage.
D R AFTED I NTO FAS H ION
Trench coats are now seen in lace, silk organza, velvet, python
skin, and everything in between. In early 2019, Christie’s sold a
bright pink faille version that Yves Saint Laurent had made for
French actor Catherine Deneuve, an example of how firmly the
trench coat holds a place in fashion iconography.
From a technical standpoint, a trench coat isn’t difficult to put
together, but there are a few elements that need particular care.
Let’s examine some of them.
Susan Khalje is a Threads contributing editor, author, and founder
of the online Susan Khalje Couture Sewing Club. SusanKhalje.com
 “The trench coat
was not invented.
It evolved
out of utility and
practicality”
—Nick Foulkes in The Trench Book
(Assouline, 2007)

There are many trench coat

patterns, each with subtle
differences. The author chose this
style for its raglan sleeves and
princess seam shaping.
Pattern: 103 Classic Trench Coat, BurdaStyle

web extra
9/2012. Fabric: metallic cloqué, Janssens et
Janssens Tissus, Paris; silk twill (contrast), Mood
Designer Fabrics, New York.
View a trench coat pattern roundup
at ThreadsMagazine.com.

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m J U N E /J U LY 2 0 1 9 63
Topstitching strategies
A trench coat has a lot of topstitching. It defines the coat’s style lines as well as numerous functional elements. Topstitching—done
right—also has a marvelous precision and control, befitting the garment’s history.

Variables Favoring tricks

As with all techniques, you need to experiment,
possibly a lot, but that’s part of the fun.
• S
 elect a presser foot. Use a walking foot or
an edgestitching foot.
• C
 hoose which threads to use. Try out thick,
thin, shiny, or doubled threads in the needle.
You’ll also need to make a decision about the
bobbin thread. Keep it the same as the top
thread, different, or doubled.
• D
 etermine the needle type. Try a jeans
needle or a topstitching needle. The needle
may need to be changed more often.
• T
 est stitch length and spacing, and thread
tension. Stitches may look bigger or smaller
than you expect when you sew through
layers. Plan the topstitching distance from
the garment edge, and if you are planning
more than one topstitching row, determine
the spacing between rows.
RS
When topstitching along edges, you
may want to keep the underfabric out
of sight. You can control the layering
before topstitching.
• Roll the seamline to the underside.
Carefully press the seam allowances
toward the underlayer, clipping as
necessary. Then press the garment
from the outside, adjusting the layers
to roll the seamline under.
• Hand or machine understitching
often solves the problem.
Understitching keeps the layers in
place. Pin thoroughly to keep the
layers from shifting.
• Baste for control. Nothing controls
the layers and your stitching better
Test all-purpose and topstitching threads to find the than a row of hand basting before
effect you’re looking for. you start machine topstitching.

Double machines
It’s handy to have one machine set up for regular sewing and another set up for topstitching. Otherwise, you’re
going to be constantly changing from regular thread to topstitching thread. Not only that, the settings on your
machine need to change. In the interests of accuracy, either you’ve got to be vigilant about which settings to
use for which application, or save yourself the trouble with two machines.

General advice
• Check that you have enough bobbin thread. If you’re using a
thicker thread in the bobbin, fewer yards fill it up and it runs out
sooner than you expect.

• Be sure the fabric feeds through smoothly. You’ll be sewing through
different numbers of layers, even on the same seam, so you may
need to pull the fabric gently to feed the seam and keep the stitches
of a consistent length.

• Don’t be afraid to replace stitching if there’s a problem. If there’s a

section that’s less than perfect, it’s easy to take out the section and
carefully replace it with new stitching. Bury the thread ends between
the fabric layers.

• Stitch slowly. You’ve got a better chance of making your stitches

even if you don’t go too fast.

• Press between rows. Before stitching a parallel row,

Accurate topstitching befits a trench coat’s practical details. press the previous row.

64 THREADS
Precise points
It’s tricky to sew the acutely angled points that make epaulets and collars such attractive details, and it’s more difficult to make them
absolutely symmetrical. There’s usually too much fabric to cram into too small a space, but there are methods to combat these challenges.

ePaulets collars
Stitch the layers, but leave one long Trimming the seam allowances severely helps, as does
1 edge open. Place the fabric layers
right sides together. Mark
rounding the points slightly. It gives seam allowances
breathing room, and it’s still possible to achieve a lovely
and sew the epaulet point. Trim closely, and press as close to the point as you
shape. Leave a long can to open the seam allowances. Favor the seamline
opening in one toward the undercollar, and gently work the point. While
long side. you may be tempted to use the points of your scissors for
EPAULET (WS) this task, it’s too easy to make a hole. Use a tool with a soft
tip, and be gentle. Take your time, especially to match
two collar points.

To achieve
symmetrical
points in thick
Trim the seam allowances.
2 Cut away excess seam
allowance fabric near the
fabrics, trim closely
and turn gently.

point and corners. The

more acute the angle,
the more closely you
EPAULET (WS)
should trim.

Trim the seam

allowances.

Turn the epaulet right side out. Fold in the seam allowances
3 along the open edge. Press and pin the folds in place.
Open edge

EPAULET (RS)

Topstitch along the epaulet edges and point. Don’t bother to stitch
4 the open end; it goes into a crossing seam. The sample is shown in
fashion fabric, with topstitching thread in the needle and bobbin.

EPAULET (RS)

Topstitching

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m
Efficient belt carriers
A belt is a vital element of any trench coat, and you want carriers that are strong, symmetrical, and securely attached. Follow this easy
method to make and add the carriers to your trench coat.

Fold the strip closed, aligning the pressed edges. Edgestitch

1 Fold and press an on-grain fabric strip. I
start with a long, 2-inch-wide strip. Fold it
in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and
press. Then fold the raw edges in to meet at the
center fold and press again.
2 both sides, then firmly press again. Cut the strip into carriers of
the desired length, fold the ends under, and sew them to the coat
with two short rows of carefully-placed topstitching per end. Pull
the threads to the inside and firmly tie them.

Topstitch. Aligned folds

Photos: (p. 63; p. 64, bottom; p. 65, right; p. 67, right) Jack Deutsch; all others, Mike Yamin. Stylist: Jessica Saal. Hair and makeup: AgataHelena.com. Styling credits: earrings and ring—NordstromRack.com,
BELT CARRIER (RS)

Center fold Folds

Center fold

A corner tactic
When your stitches are small, you can form a nice row of topstitching around a corner. If your stitches are larger, however, chances are
you won’t end with the perfect stitch when you’re turning a corner with your topstitching. There is an easy way to topstitch a collar,
guaranteeing perfect stitch placement.

shoulder bag—Liebeskind Berlin (NordstromRack.com) top—JCrew.com, pants—Zara.com, shoes—Linea Paolo (Nordstrom.com).

Begin at Bury the thread tails. You have to bury
1 one collar
corner. Sew
Stitch from
the collar
point.
4 12 thread tails (four per corner, and another
set of four at the center back). Don’t knot them;
away from pulling them snug is enough to lock them in.
COLLAR (RS)
the corner, Then thread a needle and bury them. There’s
down the never any strain on them, so knotting isn’t
short end. necessary, plus you might see the knot.

Beginning at the same corner, sew toward the center back.

2 Stop when you get there.

Hide the thread

tails within the
COLLAR (RS) collar layers.
Stitch from
Sew the
the collar
point. 3 other collar
point. Repeat
COLLAR (RS) steps 1 and 2.
The stitching
lines meet at

web extra
center back.

Find out about current water-repellent fabric treatments

at ThreadsMagazine.com.

66 THREADS
Pocket plan
You can’t topstitch a seam and a pocket in one go—that would
sew the pocket shut. Instead, follow this process. Your final top-
stitching looks continuous, but you sew it in three sections.

Baste and clip the pocket opening edge and ends. The basting
1 acts as a guide for the pocket edge fold, and for the pocket
opening topstitching. Clip diagonally to the basting line to fold the
fabric under neatly.

RS Diagonal clip Diagonal clip

Clip and baste the pocket opening edge.

Topstitch the opening. Fold under the pocket opening edge

2 along the basting. Topstitch from one end of the pocket opening
to the other. Do not go past the basting; it represents the length of
the pocket opening.

RS Pocket opening

Topstitch the pocket opening only.

Sew the garment seam. The pocket opening fold should

3 align with the seam.

WS Pocket opening

Seam Seam
web extra
Topstitching See three trench coat
fabrications at
ThreadsMagazine.com.
Turn and press the layers. Then apply the remaining
4 topstitching. Start and stop exactly at the ends of the
pocket opening topstitching. Bury the thread tails.

Seam Pocket opening Seam

RS Topstitching

w w w. t h r e a d s m a g a z i n e . c o m J U N E /J U LY 2 0 1 9 67