How to Estimate Yardage

for a specific length of bias

To cut a length of fabric from which to cut your bias:
1. Determine length of bias needed.
Example: 46”
2. Divide by 1.414 46 / 1.414 = 32.53

3. If fabric requires pre-shrinking, add some extra fabric for stitching the raw edge to
prevent raveling, plus allowance for shrinkage.

4. I cut a piece 38” long, stitched the raw edges, and washed in hot water using synthrapol
for detergent, and dried in a hot dryer for shrinkage. Then I washed it again but did not
dry the fabric.
 To Prepare Fabric for a Piped Bias Edge
The objective is to make the line A/B shorter than it is naturally. The threads of the weave are
becoming compressed. This allows for shaping the bias. When folded, the folded edge can be
smaller than the “raw” edges, allowing the bias to curve. In the case of “Piped Bias” two folded
edges can be different lengths, allowing the bias to maintain a curve after laundering.

1. Pre-shrink piping cord. I let mine boil in a pot of water, then turned off the stove, and
let the water cool.
2. To follow up on step 4 above: While the fabric is damp, straighten the grain, then hang
the fabric from one corner to distort the grain.
This is the approximate shape of the fabric after distortion.
3. Measure from the top corner (X) down to A. Use the same measurement to measure
from X to B. Make the first bias cut on the line that connects A to B.

Note: the true bias lies at the center of the unit.

Notes on piped bias

Square the fabric on the table over a template

The template should be a piece of paper that is about 40” square, marked in dark ink, with the
diagonal lines connecting the corners. You want to be able to line up the longest edge you need. The
nightgown neckline takes 32” – The Nico neckline takes 40+ inches.

Your objective is to have a true bias, without stretching the fabric. You can block the fabric to a less than
90 degree angle to give yourself some leeway, and starch the fabric to help hold it.

Measure the opening, and add 1.5” for a 1.5” width strip – folded twice to finish at ½”

Hand baste the fabric to tracing paper that has the half inch marking on it? Stitch the ends of the strip to
join.

Divide the opening into 4ths and divide the bias into 4ths, lengthwise. These points will be matched.

Fold the strip and press at ½”. Lay the cord at the raw edge and fold the other edge down over the cord
and pin.

Using a zipper foot, or the 3 cord pintuck foot, baste the cord into the strip, through all three layers.
 How to Estimate Yardage
for a specific length of bias

Note: Before cutting fabric from the roll, or bolt

pull a cross-wise thread from the fabric.
The remaining gap will be your a cutting line.

I don't cut my bias strips ahead of time. Nor do I pull a bias strip through the gadget that
folds in each edge. Both of those actions will give me strips that are stretched lengthwise. I
want my bias to be able to stretch where it needs to, just the same as I want my waistline
elastic to stretch. If it is stretched to begin with, it will never respond to shaping.

In the following, I shape the fabric in such a way as to give me a bias finish that lays flat in
the concave curve of the garment, even after laundering.

For my piped cord, I use Mini Piping Cord from Peanut Butter N Jelly Kids, a shop specializing
in heirloom sewing supplies.

To measure a length of fabric from which to cut your bias:

1. Determine length of bias a bit longer than you need. Example: 46” to bind a
neckline that measures 38”:

2. Divide by 1.414 46 / 1.414 = 32.53

(hint: use a calculator)

3. If fabric requires pre-shrinking, add some extra fabric for stitching the raw edge to
prevent raveling, plus, allowance for shrinkage.

4. I cut a piece 38” to 40” long, stitched the raw edges, and washed in hot water using
synthrapol for detergent, and dried in a hot dryer for shrinkage.

Then I washed it again but did not dry the fabric. If you can’t finish the process of
shaping the fabric at this time, seal it in a plastic bag and place it in the freezer.
Otherwise the fabric could mildew and may be ruined. There are chemicals to
remove mildew, but once it happens, the damage is done. You could let it dry and
re-wash it, but freezing it first makes it easier to work with.

To Prepare Fabric for a Piped Bias Edge

 that Finishes 3/8" Wide

Pre-shrink piping cord:

I let mine sit in boiling water for about 5 minutes

then turned off the stove and let the water cool.

An alternate method is to wind off a length of cord,

using the method for dying yarn**
place the cord in a mesh
bag then wash and dry it with your fabric.

(1) To follow up on step 4 above:

While the fabric is damp, hang the fabric

from one corner to dry
to deliberately distort the grain.
I hung mine from a plant hook on the carport to get it
high enough to keep it off the ground.
When it was slightly damp, I brought it indoors
and suspended it from the top edge of my
free-standing design wall to dry overnight.

Madeleine Vionnet draped her

fabric while dry, with weights attached.

I don't recommend pulling on the fabric,

as that can distort the grain unevenly.

When the fabric has dried, I lay it on a large

pressing surface, nudge and ease the edges straight,
and gently steam out any fullness that remains.
OR

(2) Block the Fabric on a Pattern

Using either brown kraft paper, or heavy pattern paper,

Instead of a 90° angle at corner X,

it is now approximately a 75° angle.

(I say "approximate" because depending on the

density of the weave,
and the weave pattern, it can vary).

If you start with a square of fabric (which I did not)

the shape would now be a more of a diamond.

When the fabric has dried:

Measure from the top corner (X) down to A.

Use the same measurement to measure from X to B.

Make the first bias cut on the line that connects A to B.

The objective is to make the line A/B shorter than it is naturally.
The threads of the weave are becoming compressed.
This allows for shaping the bias so it stays flat while
curved within a neckline or armhole.