[Music]

Hello hello How are you Welcome to my

calliope channel this time I will teach you how to

make the molds for this type of

pants, it is a dening pants with a

wide boot In case you have difficulty with

the molds and you prefer to purchase the

digital molds below in the description I

will be leaving a link so you can

go directly to the store and buy

the molds Remember that it comes in eight

sizes at one price the molds

are already ready to cut it comes with

all its pieces with the waistband the

pockets on the front part also

on the back and also the little pieces

for the closure So take advantage, it

can be useful for any

undertaking, whether for personal use,

well, without further ado, let's start with

the process for you who want to learn

from scratch to make your molds, we are going to

make what would be the

front part for this we are going to draw a

line at the top And from

this angle we are going to lower what would be

the height for the front in this case

for the inseam height it should be

hip contour Between four minus 1 cm this

measurement we are going to square

horizontally in this case for a size s it

gave me

22.5 cm we draw horizontally

on this shooting line we will enter the

fourth part of the hip contour in

that case for a size is I get 23.5

cm this will be what It is the hip

So we are going to enter this

measurement, this square point towards the

top towards the waist line with the

help of the square ruler because it

is quite easy for us and here

we already have practically like a rectangle

practically like a square the

difference is of 1

cm let's move on to the front shot exit

for the front exit because we are going to

take the hip contour between 20

results we are going to come out from the

point in this case I get 4.7

cm now for the hip height we are going to

do the following contour hip

between 12 and well, we are going to raise the

result that was given to us in this case, it

gave me 7.8 cm. Taking into account these two

points, we are going to form the curve for the

front shot with the help of a

French ruler or with a semi-curve like

this on the waist line from

this angle we enter 1

cm we draw straight up to the

hip height from this point we are going to

measure what would be the

waist measurement for this we are going to take the

waist contour Between four the result

we are going to mark or we are going to enter in this

case I get

18.5

cm to form the side and we

use a semi-curve to join what

is the waist measurement to the

T line for the line of thread or line

of poise let's go to measure from the edge

to the front rise exit

we take half of this measurement this point we

are going to square both up

and towards the

bottom we are going to define the total length

of the pants from the

waist line in my case I put 100 cm This

measurement is optional, it depends a lot on the

desired length. We are going to square

this point horizontally. This line would be

the Basta or boot line. We measure

from the shooting line to the

boot line. We take out half plus 4 cm

upwards and square horizontally. and

here we have what the knee line is

from the line of aplomb,

we are going to go out both to the left and to the

right 9 cm with the help of a ruler

like this because we are going to form what

would be the crotch and for the side

We are going to work this way, the

rule along the boot line is going to

go out both to the left and to the

right, 13 cm. This measurement is optional

depending on the width of the desired boot foot. If

you want a little more, it can

be even up to 15 cm wide. cm we are going to go up from

that line 1 cm to shape the

bottom part and with the help of a

semi-curved ruler we are going to send this to the

sides in this way so that it

is not so straight since

our pants are so wide that up to here we have the

front part of these pants now we are going

to cut so that from this we are going to

make what is the

back part, that is, we are going to take

this front part as a base to make the

back part and it will be much easier,

we cut the pieces and trace them on

another paper this forward with the lines

both the line of poise and the

shooting line the knee line well the first

point well we are going to extend the

waist line at both

ends we are also going to do the same

with the hip line

we extend both sides for the

rear shot exit must be the same as that

given to us for the front shot exit,

which was 4.7 cm, so we extend that

measurement and on the waist line

we enter from the front

3.5

cm, we join these two points and at the same time

we extend 3 cm more

upwards from these 3 cm we are going to

measure what would be the fourth part of the

waist contour plus 2 cm for the

dart in this case it gave me 20.5

cm on this shooting line we extend

1 cm we use one more ruler or

less like this a semi-curve to

form the side or rear side

now for the rear shot exit

because we are going to form the curve taking into

account the height of the front shot that is

more or less at that

height let's move on to the knee line we are going

to go out one centimeter for the two

ends and then there we are going to form

what is the back side and the

back crotch also at the bottom

in the boot. The difference for the

back is 1 cm. So we are going to

go out at 1 cm in This part is

nothing more than with a straight ruler

[Music]

we cut the back line.

Remember that this back line has a

clamp of two cm so we take out half at

the waist and 1 cm here on each side. So

the total would be 2 cm for the clamp The

depth for the dart or the

dart size is 11 to 12

cm. This would be the basic line with

darts. Jeans with darts. Now to be

able to make a Jean or a dening with

yoke, we are going to eliminate the dart like on

this occasion. I want a pants with

yoke So I'm going to divert this dart

to the side or eliminate the dart

to the side we eliminate the 2 cm on

the side part more or less like

this now we are going to erase what

the dart is Or the dart now We do not have in

this line for the yoke starting from the

side we are going to go down 3 cm and for the

shot well we are going to go down 4

cm with the help of a ruler like this or

a semi-curve we are going to shape this

to obtain the sac pompi effect Since

if you do straight,

the pattern will be super flat, we separate this

little piece and very importantly, this line does not

have a seam allowance. So we are going to

add a seam allowance all around the

contour and also for this little cut

on the front we are going to make a

modification and we are going to place what is

the bag and the

tracks what we will do from the shot

or at the waist we are going to go down 4 cm and

we draw a semi-curve to the side that

is, we just go down four and

we are going to eliminate that piece no longer

serves us, that is, that little piece serves us well,

this to shape our front so that it does

n't fit so straight, let's go with the

front pocket, we're going to lower six cm

for the opening and well, here,

horizontally, we're going to enter some eh

9.5 cm with the help of a

French ruler like this we are going to form what

would be the opening of the pocket for the

view of this pocket the

top view 3 cm around the entire hem

from the opening and for the bag 4 cm

from From the view in the shot we also

go down 4 cm. We are going to form what would be

the design for the bag, either

freehand or with a ruler. Now we are going to

separate the pieces of the pocket. This

would be the lower view and we are going to

trace this

way. We place the

corresponding indications for the side and the waist

so as not to confuse us. The top view

would be this, this little strip. We also put

the corresponding indications for the

waist and the side. These first two

pieces are going to be cut in the

main fabric, that is, in deni, and these

last two will be cut. is going to cut the fabric linings

are the bags this would be the

upper bag the lower bag that already covers

the entire

design these pieces also do not have a

seam allowance So we must

add the seam allowance as well as to

the patterns on this front line we are

going to separate this little piece this piece

that we just removed is no longer

useful let's move on to the closing pieces

this would be the gareto and this would be the

gareta the gareta is five wide

by 15 long the garet is at the fold

five wide at the top the

length is 15 and at the bottom 3

cm opening we will have a

complete piece for the front

patch pocket we are going to draw a 9

by 8 cm rectangle we go up from both ends 1 cm

and take out half of the bottom

to shape the bottom of

this front pocket Now let's move on to the

back patch pocket we are going to take

a piece of

14.5 by

17.5 cm from the ends we go up 1.5 and

take out half at the bottom

we draw straight to the center

to shape the

pocket we cut and we have the piece

ready this pocket the last four

pieces that I am showing would be two

patch pockets and the closure piece

already has a C margin for the waistband

it should be half the waist circumference

plus 5 cm the width of the waistband will be

4 cm in this case I have a

rectangle of half the

waist circumference plus 5 and the width must be 4

cm from these 4 cm we go

up another 4

cm then we take out half of this measurement In

any case we double our tape measure

to take this

measurement square this measurement now

we will join these two

straight the same at the

top taking into account This line

we are going to shape this waistband with a

semi-curve or with a ruler like

This should be on both sides because here

we already practically have our waistband,

the part of the semi-curve is going to be the

front part. Here we are going to verify

our measurement since we make this

semi-curve, there is always a difference, if

there is a difference, we must correct.

Now we do cut the waistband when

folding and stretching, we have left a

complete piece That is, the complete waistband in

this way we obtain what the

anatomical waistband is next week I

will be uploading pair two the assembly of

these pants with wide boots if you

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Thank you very much until the next tutorial