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To cite this article: Olivier de Maret & Anneke Geyzen (2015) Tastes of Homes: Exploring
Food and Place in Twentieth-Century Europe, Food and Foodways, 23:1-2, 1-13, DOI:
10.1080/07409710.2015.1011980
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Food and Foodways, 23:1–13, 2015
Copyright © Taylor & Francis Group, LLC
ISSN: 0740-9710 print / 1542-3484 online
DOI: 10.1080/07409710.2015.1011980
Food and taste play an essential role in sentiments of belonging and exclu-
sion (Scholliers), and in turn, these sentiments are central to defining one’s
home as a material or an imagined place (Mallet). While taste refers to the
gustatory sense that makes humans capable of differentiating the flavors
1
2 O. de Maret and A. Geyzen
food, thus answering the basic question of what home tastes like.
Based on these observations and the realization that the taste of home
had not been addressed directly by food scholars yet, we decided to organize
a conference in order to explore the multidimensional and dynamic meanings
of these concepts and how they interact. The conference successfully took
place in Brussels in 2012 under the initial title of A Taste of Home and attracted
contributions from various disciplines. We selected a series of papers that
makes up this special issue under the new title of Tastes of Homes. This
title change reflects the conference’s conclusions that called for contextual,
subjective, and relative understandings of taste and home. In other words,
with this series of articles, we wish to contribute to existing theorization on
taste and home and bridge a gap in foodways research. We do so via place, a
notion that—as touched upon above and discussed in the following—plays
an overriding role in the social construction of the concept of home. Thus
the main research question we address in this collection of articles is how
place contributes to tastes of homes.
This special issue presents five articles—organized in chronological or-
der according to the period discussed—that explore the relationships be-
tween tastes and homes in Belgium, Bulgaria, France, Italy, and Ireland
throughout the twentieth century. In order to answer our research question
in a comprehensive manner, we have opted for a multidisciplinary approach
that draws on the scholarly fields of architecture, history, linguistics, and me-
dia studies. Hence, the authors base their studies on a wide array of sources
that go beyond usual historical and anthropological material. Besides the
analysis of archival records, interviews, and observations, they also work
with women’s magazines, advertisements, medical treatises, and films. We
focus on Europe during the twentieth century, when the internationaliza-
tion and industrialization of the food chain increasingly provoked feelings
of displacement (Fischler) and the consequential longing for domesticity, re-
gionalism, and nationalism, reflected in relation to food. Before we present
the articles and their empirical analyses, we review the research already
conducted on the notions of taste, home, and place.
Introduction 3
UNDERSTANDING TASTE
UNDERSTANDING HOME
and an imagined place by the subjects expressing and studying it. In other
words, we concentrate on the social constructions of home through food
and the contexts in which they take place.
If home is a place, what then do we mean by place? Places express
themselves as physical structures and socially constructed ideas that articu-
late and frame social relations (Crang; Löw; Massey, “A Place Called Home,”
“Places and Their Pasts”). They are “woven together through space” and can
be understood as “changing constellations of human commitments, capac-
ities, and strategies” (Agnew 90). Places are constantly “in the process of
becoming” and provide the framework for all human interactions (Till 75). A
sense of place then becomes particularly acute for the individuals and groups
studied in this special issue who deal on a daily basis with the consequences
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Since the end of the 1990s, the notion of home in relation to food has
mostly been studied from the angle of migration studies (Janowski; Ker-
shen).2 Apart from a handful of historians who tackled the relations between
food and migrants in the past (for example: de Maret; Möhring; Panayi),
6 O. de Maret and A. Geyzen
The first and oldest meaning associated with home is that of a place, a shelter
where one lives, one’s dwelling or house. Yet in English and more gener-
ally in Germanic languages, home—Heim in German, thuis in Dutch—is
always more than a house or a shelter. Whereas the English word house has
an equivalent in most languages, there exists for example no single-word
translation of the word home in Romance languages: The French say chez
soi and the Italians a casa to mean feeling at home somewhere (Hollan-
der; Rykwert). Although a home is not necessarily equivalent with one’s
house or a building, it is its most widely held understanding.4 Early feel-
ings of home developed around the shelter of the hearth (Rykwert) and
eventually, the family (Alan and Crow). Historically though, home became
associated with family only in the late eighteenth century as a middle-class
idea linked to the desire to retreat from the public into the private sphere re-
served for the development of one’s family (Hareven). This meant excluding
non-family members who had previously been part of the household as oc-
cupants living under a same roof. In turn, working-class families developed
Introduction 7
their own flexible notions of home and alternative uses of domestic spaces
(Hareven).
Besides negotiating the ambiguity between public display and a search
for privacy (Stone), the domestic home expresses identity and articulates gen-
der and power relations among household members (Somerville). The home
has been seen and criticized as a female inside environment opposed to a
male outside world, while its organization has been studied as a material re-
flection of the distribution of resources allocated to build and run it (Bowlby,
Gregory, and McKie). Providing decent housing for all—despite a state of
homelessness in which some people live—searching for an ideal house, and
constructing a comfortable home have proven central to human relations
over the centuries, especially during the twentieth century in Europe (Betts
and Crowley;5 De Caigny; Rybczynski). Thus, home can be seen as “a social
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edifice that embodies meanings, values, and attributes that reflect the differ-
ent beliefs and experiences of its builders” (Bowlby, Gregory, and McKie).
In the realm of food studies, home as a material place has been ad-
dressed via its domestic features. In relation to food, these features involve
home cooking, food provisioning, distribution, and consumption, meal pat-
terns, diet, gender roles, and power relations in the home (Counihan and
Kaplan; Neuhaus; Parasecoli and Scholliers6; Valentine; Warde). Unsurpris-
ingly, most of these issues revolve around the domestic kitchen where food
is organized, prepared, served, and/or consumed, generally under female
supervision (Craik). In postwar Europe, the introduction of the refrigerator
into homes revolutionized the kitchen and the entire domestic organization
and preparation of food. Two articles in this special issue address this revo-
lution and the ultimate normalization of the refrigerator in our homes, albeit
from different perspectives. Willem Scheire analyzes the advertisements for
refrigerators published in a series of women’s magazines in Belgium be-
tween 1955 and 1965 and shows how advertising discourses surrounding
this new technological device carried with them multiple and evolving ide-
als of domesticity. He discusses the construction of home in terms of comfort,
care, aesthetics, and choice, thus alternating between notions of taste and
meanings of home. Rhona Richman Keneally analyzes the presentation and
advertizing of refrigerators in magazines and model homes and their intro-
duction into homes and community cookbooks in Ireland in the 1960s and
1970s. She explores taste from both its sensory and aesthetic angles and
demonstrates the roles they played in promoting refrigeration and changing
food practices in the domestic environment.
Besides home as a material place, the notion can also refer to an imagined
place. The wording recalls social scientist Benedict Anderson’s “imagined
8 O. de Maret and A. Geyzen
communities,” i.e. communities that do not originate ex nihilo but that come
into being by means of discourses that in turn express feelings of identity and
thus construct a community among a collectivity of individuals over a period
of time. Anderson confined his theory to national identity and investigated
the vocabulary that is used in order to imagine or construct that identity.
He concluded that nation is often referred to as home or Heimat—i.e. a
homeland in German—and thus as a place that one belongs to (Anderson).
Empirical research exploring nation and national identity supports Ander-
son’s thesis (e.g. Winland), yet it also broadens the scope by discerning a
regional and urban dimension. Besides national communities interpreting the
nation as home, regional and urban communities have also considered a re-
gion or a city as their Heimat (Roth and Brunnbauer). Imagined communities
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therefore not only pertain to nation but to region and city too.
Food studies may not yet have explored nation, region, or city from
the viewpoint of home, but they do gather quite a number of publications
dealing with national, regional, or urban identity. Geographers, anthropolo-
gists, sociologists, and historians have all looked at the use of place names
in relation to foodways and have demonstrated the relationship between
geographical indications on the one hand and feelings of belonging and
identity on the other (for a literature review, see Geyzen). Interestingly, the
analyses all demonstrate the latent presence of gastrolinguistics, i.e. they
all support the thesis that national, regional, or urban foodways are not a
natural given but become national, regional, or urban when named as such
(Lakoff). The use of place names thus entails a process of meaning making
whereby place-bound foodways and feelings of belonging are constructed
(Parys). Furthermore, the use of place names in se leads to feelings of ex-
clusion as well. Individuals or groups who do not identify with particular
geographical indications are excluded from the corresponding place-bound
foodways and identity constructions. Finally, place-bound foodways and
their related feelings of belonging can be multidimensional as the use of
geographical indications can refer to more than one place at the same time.
The use of the French notion of terroir illustrates this well: Terroir first
equates small-scale places in France and then pertains to the combination
of those places into France (Ferrières; Trubek, “Place Matters,” The Taste of
Place).
Finally, it is important to have a look at how the use of place names
relates to the concept of tastes. In order to justify this relationship, the notion
of typicality has come to the surface, meaning that when geographical indi-
cations are used, they immediately suggest aspects of quality and origin that
in turn define tastes. The use of place names thus indicates the relationship
between geography and tastes with the latter originating in the former. In
other words, ingredients’ or dishes’ typical tastes emanate from geography
(Ceccarelli, Grandi, and Magagnoli). It must however be pointed out that
the relationship between geography and taste is a social construction that
Introduction 9
says more about the community using the place name than it does about the
foodways themselves (Geyzen; Trubek, The Taste of Place).
In this special issue, the notion of home as an imagined place in relation
to food is approached from three different perspectives. Fabio Parasecoli an-
alyzes representations of food in Italian Neorealist films in the search for
constructions of home in postwar Italy. He analyzes food scenes and finds
that they unravel cultural and political debates on the future of the country
and express the filmmakers’ view on what private homes and what type
of a homeland Italy should be. Elitsa Stoilova explores how Bulgaria be-
came the homeland of yoghurt during the twentieth century. She scrutinizes
medical treatises and advertisements and concludes that the actors exploited
the yoghurt’s inherent characteristics for its Bulgarianization. The product’s
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sour taste and salutary effects on longevity were thus inextricably linked to
Bulgaria as their homeland. Furthermore, these characteristics also instigated
yoghurt’s growing popularity in Europe where the product’s Bulgarianization
was considered as a form of exoticism. Sylvie Durmelat analyzes the use of
food and especially of couscous scenes in Maghrebi-French diasporic films
whose plots take place during the second half of the twentieth and the first
decade of the twenty-first centuries. She uses the concepts of culinary citi-
zenship and ethnic body to discuss reconfigurations of home in a migratory
context and finds that cinematic couscous serves to articulate changing tastes
for changing homes along various axes.
CONCLUSION
nation, region, or city. These places come into being by means of discourses
that in turn express feelings of identity and thus construct a community.
Within food studies, home as an imagined place has been studied from
the angle of place-name usage in relation to foodways. Empirical research
has shown that the use of place names contributes to feelings of belonging
and identity constructions according to place. Furthermore, the use of place
names suggests a typical and qualitative taste intrinsically linked to that par-
ticular place. Three articles follow this thread of thought, namely Parasecoli’s
analysis of Italian Neorealist films, Stoilova’s exploration of how yoghurt be-
came Bulgarian, and Durmelat’s study of couscous film scenes in Maghrebi
feelings of belonging.
Overall, these five articles demonstrate that homes have tastes and tastes
have homes, all of which benefit from being understood in relation to the
specific contexts and subjects involved in their constructions.
NOTES
1. This is not always true, as Mary Douglas talks of the “tyranny of the home” (Douglas).
2. A search in The Food Bibliography proves this periodization: http://www.foodbibliography.eu/
index_en.asp.
3. See, for example, the special issue published by Anthropology of Food 7 (2010).
4. The contemporary equivalence of the English word “house” with “home” seems to be “the
linguistic waste product of the American real-estate industry” that, in the late nineteenth century, equated
both terms in order to enhance the real estate value of houses and distinguish a home from a whore-house
(Hollander 41).
5. See the special issue of the Journal of Contemporary History 40.2 (2005) on the meanings of
home in postwar Europe introduced by Betts and Crowley.
6. We refer here to the series A Cultural History of Food consisting of six volumes, each containing
a chapter on food, family, and domesticity.
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