You are on page 1of 71

Mast Industries Inc.

Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

MAST INDUSTRIES INC.


A D IVISION OF LIMITEDBRANDS

STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES

FOR

FINAL INSPECTION

PREPARED BY: TECHNICAL SERVICE


VERSION: 2. 0 LEO CHAN

I
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

Change in Document
(Version 2.0)

Page# Change Date


All All – New version 7/25/05
Pages 8/05/05
III,6,7,8,9,10,11,13,14,18,20,36
Page 10 New York & company AQL 6.5 to 4.0 1/9/06
Page 6,9,16 E.1, E.9 & E.10 switched, inserted in-line 4/11/07
report
Page 2,3,6,7,19,38,42 P2,D1: windows not Recommend….
P3,D2:delete “Minimum”, change to “range”
P6,E2: delete “green tag”.
P7,E4: add “weight”
5/28/07
P9,E10 . LNR AQL changed. Fig 1-2 Double Sampling
Chang to Fig 1-7.
P19, F4.4: add “for sweater, garment test only.”
P38, F6: all new.
P42 G: “Fault classification” change to “Defect
Categories”.
Page 9-13 A.Q.L. update 9/24/2008
Page 15 Chico’s Lighting update 2/19/2009
Page 8 Add new measurement process 2/25/2009
Page 11 PAC AQL change 4/21/2009
Page 9 PKD,VCS & VSX AQL revised 8/18/2009
Page 6 Delete E2. 3, Add “ Spec Pre-Alert” 5/30/2010
Page 15 Update Light sources requirement 8/23/2010

II
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PAGE #
A. PURPOSE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1

B. DEFINITION ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1

C. PRE-REQUISITE ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2

D. AUDIT PREPARATION
D1. Audit Work Area ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3
D2. Lighting and Temperature Condition -------------------------------------------------------------------- 3
D3. Inspection Table and QC Chair ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4
D4. Audit Tools ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5

E. AUDIT PROCEDURES
E1. Selection of Carton ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
E2. Q.C Inspection File Check ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
E3. Review Approved PP Sample -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
E4. Check shipping mark and packing ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7
E5. Garment Sampling -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7
E6. Check Garment Presentation ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7
E7. Check Color Shade ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7
E8. Check Measurement ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8
E9. Check The Fit and Balance of Garment -------------------------------------------------------------- 10
E10. Check Workmanship and Visual Defect ------------------------------------------------------------- 10
E11. Marking Defects --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14
E12. Review Defective Garment ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14
E13. Issue Audit Report ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 14
E14. Disagreement Handling ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14
E15. Identification of Sampled Carton ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14

F. AUDIT SKILLS AND INSTRUCTIONS


F1. How to Use of Macbeth Light Box for Color Evaluation ------------------------------------- 15
F2. How to Check Color Shade by Using Approved Shade Band ----------------------------- 16
F3. Fitting Garments On Approved Body Form --------------------------------------------------------- 17
F4. Guidance of Inspection File Checking ------------------------------------------------------------------ 19
F4.1. Mast Purchase Order (MPO) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 19
F4.2. Mast In-line Report ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 20
F4.3. Approved Tech Pack ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21
F4.4. Fabric and Garment Lab Test Reports --------------------------------------------------------- 22
F4.5. Accessories Card ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23
F4.6. Labeling and Placement -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24
F5. Garment Inspection ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 25
F5.1. General Check ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25
F5.2. Detail Check - Appearance and Workmanship ------------------------------------------- 25
F5.3. Areas To Check, (Woven/ knit, Cut & Sew) ----------------------------------------------- 26
F5.4. Inspection Method ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26
F5.4.1. Inspection Method - Example 1 ( Dress ) --------------------------------------------- 27
F5.4.2. Inspection Method - Example 2 ( Jacket –Tailored ) --------------------------- 28
F5.4.3. Inspection Method - Example 3 ( Pants ) --------------------------------------------- 30

III
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

TABLE OF CONTENTS
(Continued)
PAGE #
F5.4.4. Inspection Method - Example 4 ( Shirt ) ---------------------------------------------- 33
F5.4.5. Inspection Method - Example 5 ( Sweater ) ---------------------------------------- 35
F5.4.6. Inspection Method - Example 6 ( Tee-shirt ) --------------------------------------- 37
F5.4.7. Inspection Method – Example 7 ( Bra ) ----------------------------------------------- 38
F5.4.8 Inspection Method_ Example 8 ( Panty ) -------------------------------------------- 40
F6. Report writing
F6.1. Filling in Final Inspection Report (Blank) -------------------------------------------------- 41
F6.2. Filling in Final Inspection Report ---------------------------------------------------------------- 42
F6.3. Filling in Final Inspection Report – Measurement ------------------------------------- 43
F6.4. Inspection Report ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44
F6.5. Inspection Result ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44

G. FAULT CLASSIFICATION ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 45

H. DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 45

IV
Mast Industries INC
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual

A. PURPOSE
The purpose of this Manual is to out line the procedures Auditors follow when measuring the
over-all performance of products. This Manual was also created to ensure factory understand
Mast’ expectations in categories such as final audit’s condition, product’s visual appearance,
measurement accuracy and packing execution.

B. DEFINITION
Final Audit is to determine the quality of an order by its visual appearance, measurement to
specifications and packing execution. The final audit is performed before the finished product is
shipped. This is done in order to minimize the arrival of defective product to brands distribution
centers, stores or other designated locations.

-1-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

C. PRE-REQUISITE
All auditors must be tested and pass two color perception tests (Munsell Color Test and Ishihara
Test) in order to identify their ability to recognize color shading and identify color correctly.

ƒ Munsell Color Test

ƒ Ishihara Test ( Color blindness Test )

The eye test must be done yearly and results should be maintained.

The Criteria of test and result:

C1. Munsell color test (HUE 100)


Allowed one mistake (one pair) and in 2 minutes to finish one unit of perception test.

C2. Ishihara test (color blindness and weakness)


Allowed two mistakes, out of 20 visual check and the test should be finished in 15
minutes.

C3. Marginal result should has second test to verify their eyes ability has maintained.

-2-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

D. AUDIT PREPARATION - INSPECTION AREA SETTING, CONDITION


AND TOOLS
As everybody knows, the working environment will affect the result of an inspection. It is
important that an audit must be conducted under an appropriate environment with proper tools,
which includes:

D1. Audit Work Area


ƒ Must be a proper audit work room with minimum size of 30 square meters, not a
conference room nor inside of the office.

ƒ All walls covered by white board.

ƒ Floor color must be painted “dark grey” or “black” not light color.

ƒ Well lighted, Windows not recommend and room inside must be light-proved. (not
being affected by outside daylight or other light sources).

ƒ ‘MACBETH’ light box should be set in small room (or separate compartment) of
the audit area, closed with wooden door (or black opaque curtain) to keep away of
all light sources.

ƒ Air-conditioned.

D2. Lighting and Temperature Condition


ƒ Range 110-120 candle light.

ƒ C.W.F light tubes placement should be under ceiling and 12” away from the edge of
inspection table.
C.W.F light tubes model
Brand: PHILIP Model # TLD 36W/33

ƒ Temperature: Around 18 C – 24 C.

ƒ Humidity: Around 40 – 70%.

ƒ With A/C and IDD plug for internet connection.

-3-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

D3. Inspection Table and QC Chair

ƒ Table color in mid-grey with dull surface.

ƒ Table size: H34 1-/2” x W48” x L96” x T1-1/2”, with edge surrounded by solid
wood and smooth surface.

ƒ 4-tables component preferred - big enough to lay bulk samples for testing.

ƒ High stand and high back QC chair, removable and adjustable.

Easy to dismantle and assemble

-4-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

D4. Audit Tools

Audit equipment includes:

Ball Pen

Soft Measuring Tape for Woven, Cut & Sew products

Metal Measuring Tape for Sweater

Digital Camera

Defect Sticker (ensure the sticker will not leave any remnants on the garment)

Inspection Report for Final Audit (An example can found in Chapter F6 of this manual)

Carton Sticker (subject to brands requirement)

-5-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

E. AUDIT PROCEDURES
To ensure all critical points are covered, an audit should be conducted in following procedures:

E1. Selection of Carton Samples ( cartons / colors / sizes … )


Randomly select at least 8% inspection cartons from total shipment, Sample must be
packed,(I.E. 95% completed carton pack, and 5% complete poly-bag pack), the
minimum boxes/package opened can covered all color/sizes (and lengths if applied).

E2. Q.C Inspection File Check


1. Final Inspection request with all relevant details that is mail/fax to the concerned
Q. A. / Merch 48 hours prior to the Final Inspection date.

ƒ An Inspection file should include below materials:


a) Mast Purchase Order (MPO) & Client Purchase Order (CPO)
b) Mast In-line Report
c) Approved PP sample and/or Approved TOP sample
d) Approved Tech Pack
e) Approved Shade Band
f) Passed Fabric Test Report
g) Passed Garment Test Report
h) Approved Accessories Card
i) Labeling Placement Instruction
j) Other relative documents (e-mails, etc.)

ƒ Mast Auditors must check all above documents are available on site when carry
out final audit.

ƒ For Spec pre-alert. Re-measure inline sealed sample & keep record, make call
out if big different.

ƒ If found lack of any above material, merchandiser should be contacted for


follow up actions.

ƒ If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser for corrective
actions.

2. The failure in the offering a final will be fined USD100 if over 2 hours.

E3. Review Approved Pre-Production Sample or Approved T.O.P Sample and


Check the consistency between the bulk and PP sample or TOP sample
regarding to:

ƒ Label and sticker placement


ƒ Workmanship
ƒ Construction
ƒ Fabric appearance
ƒ Trim and accessories
ƒ Hand feel
ƒ Wash appearance ( if applicable)

-6-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

E4. Check Shipping Mark and Packing


ƒ Check accuracy of shipping mark, carton labeling, packing list, garment quantity,
assortment, Pre-Pack details.

ƒ Major Defects for Pack Audits


a) Incorrect quantity
b) Carton labeling errors
c) Incorrect Pre-Pack
d) Carton not as specified (size and construction, weight)
e) Crushed or damaged cartons
f) If the order and shipment quantity are + or – 5% (per color/size) then the merchandising
department must be informed immediately.
g) If not used BHT free tape (3M or other brands) on poly bag.
h) BHT power in the poly-bag

ƒ Zero tolerance for pack audit, if Pack Audit fails, the factory must then take
appropriate action to correct the problems found.

ƒ If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser for corrective
action.

E5. Garment Sampling


ƒ Randomly pick samples across all colors/sizes (and lengths if applied)
according to Sample Plan from selected cartons.

E6. Check Garment Presentation

E7. Check Color Shade (Consistence)


ƒ Sampling proper numbers of garments covering all sizes from different cartons.
Overlap the approved Shade Band (darkest to lightest) in the same direction on a big
table. Compare all inspected garments against the approved shade band ensuring
fabric and garments in the same direction as below picture.

ƒ In case garment shading found, garments must be viewed under the required light
sources in MacBeth light box for further decision. For denim, it should be checked
by opening garment and checking ground color and blast pattern, etc.

ƒ If color shading of garments is dropped into the range of approved shade band, the
audit passes.
-7-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

ƒ If the discrepancies are noticeable and adversely affect the appearance of entire
shipment, the audit fails. Mast auditor must note the number of inspected garments
that are in each shade group on the report and mark the garments with number
stickers for different shade groups. This failure must be brought to the attention of
the Brand team leader/merchandiser. If necessary, garments are sent to buyers for
further review.

E8. Check Measurement

ƒ For final measurement audit, measurements should be taken on products after


packing. Only key measurement defects are to be judged at the time of the shipment
audit.
ƒ
Below process immediate apply to all stretch fabric and sweater products
during in-line audit and final audit.

ƒ Before start to take measurement for the new samples, prior to measure one more
time for all the sealed samples against the last in-line check record and document
the new finding for comparison. If measurement has changed / shrunken etc. that is
a pre-alert signal and warning for auditor to address and inform Q. A. manager
about the finding and adjust audit plan

ƒ Select samples at random.

ƒ Sample Size and Standard.

Sample Size Full Points/Size Key Points/Size Total


Across colors Across colors Measured/Size
Across colors
20-32 1pc 2pcs 3pcs
50 2pcs 2pcs 4pcs
80 2pcs 3pcs 5pcs
125 3pcs 3pcs 6pcs
200-315 3pcs 4pcs 7pcs

ƒ For points of measure, refer to brand’s quality manual, measure guide or approved
Tech pack.

-8-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

ƒ If all key points within tolerance, the measurement audit passes.

ƒ If over 6% of garments the key point(s) out of tolerance of total sample measured,
the audit fails (3 pieces out of 50 pieces pass, 4 pieces or above fail).

ƒ A product with more than one key measurement defect is counted as a major defect.

ƒ Measurement and workmanship is separately counted.

ƒ Record all measurements taken on the measurement report.

ƒ If the audit fails, the merchandiser should be notified for corrective action.

-9-
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

E9. Check the Fit and balance of Garment over Approved Body Form
ƒ Randomly select two or three bulk garments size as same as PP or TOP sample and
wear on approved body form.

ƒ Compare with approved PP sample or approved TOP sample to check the fit of the
bulk.

ƒ A similar live model is acceptable for fitting if no approved fit form available.

ƒ Record the fit summary on final inspection report

ƒ If the garment provides a good fit, the audit passes.

ƒ If the problems of fitting found, the inspection will be hold and the sample together
with approved PP/TOP sample will be sent to QA manager and the merchandiser for
follow up actions.

E10. Check Workmanship and Visual Defects

ƒ Visual Audit Sampling Plans

Fig 1-1: Single sampling plan for Tighten AQL 2.5 (Reduced, Level I) for LSP, ESP, EXI, ARD.

Lot size ( units ) Sample Size A/R


0-500 20 1/2
501-1200 32 1/2
1201-3200 50 2/3
3201-10000 80 3/4
10001-above 125 5/6

Fig. 1-2: Single sampling plan AQL 2.5 (Normal, Level I) for PKD, VCS, VCL, VSX, LBI, TOI.
Lot size( units ) Sample size A/R
0-500 20 1/2
501-1200 32 2/3
1201-3200 50 3/4
3201-10,000 80 5/6
10,001-above 125 7/8

Fig.1-3: Single sampling plan AQL 4.0 (Normal, Level I) for LBS, TOR, LTI, TOO, JUS.
Lot size( units ) Sample size A/R
0-500 20 1/2
501-1200 32 3/4
1201-3200 50 5/6
3201-10,000 80 7/8
10,001-above 125 10/11

- 10 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0
Fig.1-4: Single sampling plan AQL 2.5(Normal, Level II) For VSS / PKS.
Lot size( units ) Sample size A/R
0-150 20 1/2
151-280 32 2/3
281-500 50 3/4
501-1200 80 5/6
1201-3200 125 7/8
3201-10,000up 200 10 / 11

Fig.1-5: Single sampling plan AQL 4.0 (Normal, Level 1) For La Senza.
Lot size( units ) Sample size A/R
0-500 32 3/4
501-1,200 50 5/6
1,201-3,200 80 7/8
3,201-10,000 125 10 / 11
10,001-35000 200 14 / 15
35,001-above 315 21 / 22

Fig.1-6: Sampling plan For PAC.


ACCEPT / REJECT
FACOTRY AGENT 3rd PARTY PACSUN
Lot or Batch Size Sample Size 1.5 AQL 2.5 AQL 4.0 AQL 6.5 AQL
51-90 13 0/1 0/1 1/2 2/3
91-150 20 0/1 1/2 2/3 3/4
151-280 32 1/2 2/3 3/4 5/6
281-500 50 2/3 3/4 5/6 7/8
501-1,200 80 3/4 5/6 7/8 10 / 11
,1,201-3,200 125 5/6 7/8 10 / 11 14 / 15
3,201-10,000 200 7/8 10 / 11 14 / 15 21 / 22
10,001-35,000 315 10 / 11 14 / 15 21 / 22 21 / 22
35,001-150,000 315 14 / 15 21 / 22 21 / 22 21 / 22

ODC S-4 Sample Plan @ 6.5 AQL


Lot or Batch Size Sample Size Accept Reject
91-500 13 2 3
501-1,200 20 3 4
1,201-10,000 32 5 6
10,001-35,000 50 7 8
35,001-500,000 80 10 11
500,001 + over 125 14 15

CARTON SAMPLE PLAN


No. of Cartons No. of cartons selected
2-15 9*
16-25 9
26-90 9
91-150 9
151-280 13
281-500 20
Over 500 32
80% OF PO MUST BE PACKED AND ON PACKING LIST BEFORE AN AUDIT CAN BE
CONDUCTED.
* = minimum of one each size

- 11 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0
Fig.1-7: Single sampling plan AQL 4.0 (Tighten, Reduced) For NYC.
Lot size( units ) Sample size A/R
0-500 20 2/3
501-1,200 32 3/4
1,201-3,200 50 4/5
3,201-10,000 80 7/8
10,001-above 125 10 / 11

Fig.1-8:Single sampling plan Tighten AQL 2.5 (Normal, Level II) For CAB, CJB, CHI, WAB.
Lot size( units ) Sample size A/R
0-50 5 0/1
51-150 20 1/2
151-280 32 2/3
281-500 50 3/4
501-1,200 80 5/6
1,201-3,200 125 7/8
3,201-10,000 200 10 / 11
10,001-35,000 315 14 / 15
35,001 above 500 21 / 22

Fig.1-9:Single sampling plan AQL 4.0 (Normal, Level I) For Delia’s.


Lot size( units ) Sample size A/R Minors-Accept
26-90 3 0/1 1
91-280 13 1/2 3
281-500 20 2/3 6
501-1,200 32 3/4 9
1,201-3,200 50 5/6 15
3,201-10,000 80 7/8 21
10,001-35,000 125 10 / 11 30
35,001-150,000 200 14 / 15 30
150,001 above 315 21 / 22 43

Fig 1-10: An additional double sampling plan standard (select for final audit AQL 2.5 reduce
level I & AQL 4.0 reduce level I) which is subjected to brands optional or requirement
for the critical shipment.
2.5 (Reduce Level I )
Lot Size Sample Size Cumulative A R
0-500 1st 13 13 0 2
2nd 13 26 1 2
501-1,200 1st 20 20 0 3
2nd 20 40 3 4
1,201-3,200 1st 32 32 1 4
2nd 32 64 4 5
3,201-10,000 1st 50 50 2 5
2nd 50 100 6 7
10,001-35,000 1st 80 80 3 7
2nd 80 160 8 9
35,001-150,000 1st 125 125 5 9
2nd 125 250 12 13
150,001-500,000 1st 200 200 7 11
2nd 200 400 18 19
Above 500,001 1st 315 315 11 16
2nd 315 630 26 27

- 12 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0
4.0 (Reduce Level I )
Lot Size Sample Size Cumulative A R
0-280 1st 8 8 0 2
2nd 8 16 1 2
281-500 1st 13 13 0 3
2nd 13 26 3 4
501—1,200 1st 20 20 1 4
2nd 20 40 4 5
1,201-3,200 1st 32 32 2 5
2nd 32 64 6 7
3,201-10,000 1st 50 50 3 7
2nd 50 100 8 9
10,001-35,000 1st 80 80 5 9
2nd 80 160 12 13
35,001-150,000 1st 125 125 7 11
2nd 125 250 18 19
150,001-500,000 1st 200 200 11 16
2nd 200 400 26 27

** 50% rule is applied on double sampling plan, if consistent major defects


occur more than the half number allowed and less than total number
rejected within a shipment, the factory will be requested to re-inspect and
re-work for the specified defect and the failure of audit must be brought to
the attention of the merchandiser.

The above sampling plan subject to brands optional,


Audit to be conducted by all colors across all sizes (and length if required).

ƒ When visual audit is employed, the Mast Auditor must insure following regulation
be followed and immediate corrective action is taken to correct any defects found.

- Critical visual defects zero tolerance for all brands. Critical visual defects are defined as
defects that may cause bodily injury to the wearer. One critical defect found during the
shipment audit would cause the audit to fail. All the goods in a fail audit must be re-
inspected 100% by factory to remove all critical defective items prior to been audited
again by Mast Auditor.

- Ticket/Label Check by using approved trim card, zero tolerance for all brands.

- For item sold as a set must be inspected as individual item, example 200 pieces sample
of 2 sets (jacket & pant) = 400 actual garment.
- Same style same production factory when multiple PO are ready for shipment, they be
combined and the audit performed on a sample taken from the combination. If the audit
result fails, all PO fail, if it passes all PO passes.
- Any 3 minors visual defects appeared in the same garment count one major.

- Pass/fail numbers for minor/major defects are to be counted separately for all brands.
- The lot size is the total number of units to the shipment. The selection of a random
sample must be conducted according to ratio based on quantity, number of sizes, and
various colors in a program.

- Sample size will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used.
- More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect.
- 13 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0
- If consistent minor defects occur which affect the overall appearance of the product, the
shipment audit fails. This failure must be brought to the attention of the Brand team
leader/merchandiser.
- If the number of visual defects is equal to or less than the number allowed per the
sampling plan, the audit passes. The defective products found are to be sent back for
repair or seconded.
- If the number of visual defects is more than the number allowed, the audit fails. The
merchandiser is to be notified to determined disposition of the shipment.

ƒ Defective labeling (defined by incorrect country of origin or fiber content) on any


portion of the shipment will result in failure and rejection of the shipment. During
visual inspection, packaging and labeling should be checked closely to insure
conformance to standards including proper Country of Origin and fiber content
marking.

ƒ It is mandatory to check the weight of each size for Sweaters and Cut & Sew
products. Three pieces of the median size are weighted. The results are added
together, and then divided by three (3), record the average weight per unit on final
inspection report.

E11. Marking Defects


Marking all defects found with arrow sticker and segregate by type.

E12. Review Defect Garment


Review the defective garments with factory representative.

E13. Issue Audit Report

Issue audit report and get the signature of factory representative.

E14. Disagreement Handling


Take photos and send sample in question for higher level review / decision in
case of disagreement or failed audit (optional).

E15. Identification of Sampled Carton


Put Carton Stickers on all cartons picked for Final Audit for identification
(subject to brands requirement).

NOTE : FINAL AUDIT SHOULD BE PROCEEDED ONLY WHEN THE ORDER IS 100% PACKED.

- 14 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F. AUDIT SKILLS AND INSTRUCTIONS


Apart from picking people with the right eyes, a qualified auditor must be trained on
understanding of specific requirements and fully conversant in the following aspects:

ƒ Proficient in use of Macbeth Light box for color evaluation.

ƒ Evaluation on color shade against standard / pre-approved shade band.

ƒ Proficient in fitting garments on approved body form.

ƒ Understands brand and style’s requirements, including Tech Pack, Red Tag / T.O.P.
samples comments, etc.

ƒ Inspect garments of different types in a uniform fashion.

ƒ Report writing.

F1. How to Use of Macbeth Light box for color Evaluation and light sources of
brands requirement?

All color swatches should be viewed in the Macbeth Spectralight III Light Box using the
correct 45 degree stand.

Light sources requirement by customers

Division Primary Secondary Tertiary


CHICO’S Ultralume3000 D65 INCA
Catherine TL84 D65 --
Express Intimate INCA -- --
ESP CWF INCA D65
LBS TL84 D65 --
LBI U30 D65 --
NY&CO. CWF INCA D65
LSP CWF INCA D65
VSD CWF INCA --
VCL/VSS INCA CWF --

- 15 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0
Proficient in use of Macbeth light box for color evaluation

1. The Approved shade band must be have written approval with signature.

2. 2 pieces each size, maximum 36 pieces (3 dozen) in each color must be taken for Shade
review across all size and if more than one garment is found out of shade band further 3
dozen must be taken for review, if again more than one garment is found out shade band
shipment should be rejected.

3. Inspect garment for shade must be double checked for color continuity under required by
individual customer and shade band.

F2. How to Check Color Shade by Using Approved Shade Band?

Procedures:
ƒ Swatch size requirement : Minimum 4” x 6”

ƒ Mount swatch on card, with right side out, wrap running in same vertical direction

ƒ Arrange from light tone to dark tone

ƒ Label the lot number

ƒ Identify approved and rejected shades clearly

- 16 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F3. Fitting Garments on Approved Body Form

Fit check - minimum 3 garments must be placed on the approved fit form and comment
must be recorded onto the inspection report. A similar live model can be used if no
approved fit form.

F3-1. Check the general fitting of the garment, including:

ƒ Unbalance – e.g. collars, lapels, pockets, shoulder pads setting, etc.

ƒ Over easing / over stretching – e.g. neck seam, armhole seam, side seam
etc. due to poor setting.

ƒ Twisting – e.g. legs, sleeves, side seams (knit-shirt) etc. due to poor setting
or torque (off grain) of fabric.

ƒ Hiking – e.g. legs, sleeve and back vent of lined garments, etc.

F3-2. Check the fit – Special Problems

ƒ Sleeves - Measurement problems


ƒ Slim Arm - the sleeve pulls tightly across arm and wrinkles.
ƒ Large Arm - the sleeve sags and is shapeless.
Sleeves - Figure problems
ƒ Sleeve Head too short - diagonal lines pull from shoulder point and
there is too little ease in sleeve head.
ƒ Sleeve Head too high - too much ease in the sleeve head which sags.
ƒ Sleeve Pitch - the sleeve can drag to the left or to the right.

ƒ Necklines - Figure problems


ƒ Wide Neckline - neckline sits too far away from the natural neckline.
ƒ Tight Neckline - neckline grips the neck tightly and wrinkles.
ƒ Back Neck too tight - neckline drags to the back causing diagonal
wrinkles pulling from the neck.
ƒ Front Neck too loose - neckline too full at the front.

ƒ Shoulders - Figure problems


ƒ Square Shoulders - wrinkles pull from outer shoulder.
ƒ Sloping Shoulders - sag lines appear at the sides of armholes.
ƒ Uneven Shoulders.
ƒ Prominent Front Shoulders - garment pulls across the prominent from
shoulder bones.

ƒ Bodice - Figure problems


ƒ High Bust - strain and wrinkles show across high bust line.
ƒ Low Bust - fabric sags on normal bust line and pulls at dart point.
ƒ Hollow Chest - the fabric sags across the chest area.
ƒ Dowager Hump - a definite hump on the back pulls the fabric across the
high back line; bodice rises up at the back.
Bodice - Measurement problems
ƒ Small Bust - fabric pulls across bust line and rises up at centre front.

- 17 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

ƒ Skirts – Trousers – Dress – Measurement problems


ƒ Hips larger or smaller than standard
ƒ Small Abdomen or Buttocks - garments pull across the figure, drag at
the crutch in trousers, or a skirt hem will rise at centre back or centre
front.

ƒ Skirts And Trousers – Figure problems


ƒ Tight Bulge - trousers or skirt pull across the thigh line.
ƒ Sway Back or Front - trousers or skirts sag just below waist.

Examples of bad fitting

- 18 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F4. Guidance of Inspection File Checking

Check through all customer’s requirements / instructions against Inspection File for
Order details, Fabric and Garment Test reports, Tech Pack, Red Tag / T.O.P. samples
comments, labeling, packaging, packing, hand feel standard, washed color and effect
standard, etc to ensure correct construction, fit, washing effect, measurements and
presentation, are applied in production.

Check against inspection file details

- Mast Purchase Order (MPO)


- Mast In-line report
- Approved Tech Pack
- Fabric Test Report
- Garment Test Report
- Accessories Card
- Labeling Placement

F4.1. Mast Purchase Order (VPO)


To check :

VPO

Vendor
Name

Factory
Name
Packing
method
(please refer
to Approved
Tech Pack)

Color/Size
Assortment

- 19 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F4.2. Mast In-line Report

- 20 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F4.3. Approved Tech Pack

Diagram

Size Specifications

Labeling Requirement

Construction Requirement

Color / Color Ways

Labeling Position

Packing Method
Requirement

- 21 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F4.4. Fabric and Garment Lab Test Reports


On all shipments – need to provide valid Fabric and Garment Lab Test Reports
with appropriate test required by customer / For sweater, Garment test only.

Shipment could NOT BE RELEASED if NEITHER ONE of these reports were


UNSATISFACTORY.

For all “Limited Brands” all lab test reports with “pass” or “satisfactory” result
the duration is 6 months from the date of issued and subject to buyers
requirement for 3rd party.

- 22 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F4.5. Accessories Card

EXPRESS
Main Label

Origin Label

Trim Card Factory ID label

Price Ticket Content & Care Label

- 23 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F4.6. Labeling and Placement

ƒ Check labels and price ticket details.

ƒ Labels and Tags placement – refer to approved Tech Pack requirement.

ƒ Found the approved tech packs do not give all labeling requirement & in
such cases to follow p.p. / sealer sample.

- 24 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5. Garment Inspection

Inspect garments of different types in a uniform fashion and procedures

F5.1. General Check

ƒ Randomly pick samples to check garment appearance and construction


against the approved pre-production sample and approval comment,
including T.O.P. comment, if available.

ƒ Check the presentation of garment before unpacking from poly bag.

ƒ Unpack the garment to check the pressing & folding method is correct.

F5.2. Detail Check - Appearance and Workmanship

ƒ Lay the garment flat on table to check the general appearance, shape,
matching of pattern (conform to requirement), printing, color shading,
balance of collar and pockets, etc.

ƒ Inspection Method

ƒ Always check garments in the following order:


1) Front: from upper part to lower part, from left to right ( as seen ) then

2) Back: from upper part to lower part, from left to right.

3) Check color shading within the garment.

4) Examine all seams to check on broken stitches by applying firm and


consistent tension to both sides of the seams.

5) Insert hand into the pockets to check broken bag, san and stones if
garment washed.

6) Unfasten the buttons, snaps and test zippers, etc.

7) Turn sample inside out to check on cleanliness of finishing.

If it is a lined garment, repeat steps 1 to 6 to inspect the lining.

- 25 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.3. Areas to Check


Woven/ Knitted Cut & Sewn
1) Fabric – Material faults (weaving / knitting / dyeing / printing), Hand feel /
Garment weight (Sweater) on Shell / Lining / Insulation / Interlining.

2) Color - Off standard, Shading Garment to Garment, Shading within a garment

3) Cleanliness – Stain / Soil / Paper / Thread Ends

4) Embellishment - Print / Embroidery / Appliqué

5) Trim - Buttons / Zipper / Linings: wrong, missing, defective

6) Sewing / Construction

7) Labeling - Main / Factory ID / Content / Care, etc.

8) Measurement / Fit

9) Laundry / Finish

10) Accuracy - Shipment Packaging, Labeling / Garment Count / Presentation

Sweaters
11) Yarn

12) Knitting

13) Linking

14) Mending

Bra

15) Fabric & cup material

16) Consistency of cup shape

17) Buckles, eyes & strap

18) Cleanliness out side & inside of cups

19) Sewing work

F5.4. Inspection Method

Symbol of Indication for following illustrations


Details to check

Stretch to check

Check shading within garment

- 26 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-1. Inspection Method - Example 1 (Dress)

1. Check front panel


from upper to lower.

2. Check on consistency of strap


length and cup shape.

4. Examine right (left)


side seam and
underarm seam by
applying firm and
consistent tension to
both sides of the
seams.

3. Check back panel,


strap position,
seams, etc.

5. Test zipper function.

6. Check inside out of sweep, hem stitches.

- 27 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-2 Inspection Method - Example 2 (Jacket -Tailored)

1. Lay coat face up on table. Check front left 2. Check left panel, button pocket (s),
and right panels for style detail and free Check label and under collar.
from soil and defects. Check shading.

L
R

3. Check left shoulder seam to front 4. Check right front panel sleeve
armhole seam to left sleeve under seams,/ lining in same manner.
Seam, to cuff / vent / lining. Buttons.

- 28 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

Inspection Method - Example 2 (Jacket -Tailored) - Continued

5. Position jacket face down on table,


collar turned up. Check back under
collar seams. Check left and right
back panel for soil, flaws, shading.
Check side and center back seam.
Check vent / lining.

6. Turn jacket upright on table with left and


right front panel laid open exposing inside
lining. Check labels and armhole / lining
seams. Check lining / facing seams left
side, across bottom hem to vent across
right side to right lining facing seams.
Check any inside pockets, insert hand. R L
Check center back and side seams.

- 29 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-2. Inspection Method - Example 3 ( Pants )

Left leg

Waist Leg opening

1. Fold front rise towards auditor, outseam to inseam. 2. Check leg opening.
Examine styling details. Examine left outseam,
including side pockets. Check for shading.
Examine all seams by applying firm, consistent
Tension to both sides of the seams.

3. Examine in-seam by applying firm, consistent tension to both sides of the seams.

- 30 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

Inspection Method - Example 3 (Pants) - Continued

Right Leg

4. Fold left leg out. Examine back rise 5. Return leg to original position. Turn pants over,
And front rise by applying firm and back rise to auditor. Examine right outseam by
Consistent tension to both sides of applying firm and consistent tension to both sides
the seams. of the seams.

6. Check leg opening.

7. Pick up by waist. Check front and back appearance


and twist seams as well.

- 31 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

Inspection Method - Example 3 (Pants) - Continued

8. Check zipper, waist, loops and buttons.

9. Check front left and right panel shading. 10. Check back left and right panel shading.
Check front panel and stitches from Check back panel and stitches from
upper to lower. upper to lower.

- 32 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-3. Inspection Method - Example 4 (Shirt)

1. Check front panel and stitches 2. Check collar and stitches.


from upper to lower.

4. Check sleeve and front panel shading.

3. Check pockets and pocket flap.

5. Check back panel and stitches


from upper to lower.

6. Open button to check.

- 33 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

Inspection Method - Example 4 (Shirt) -Continued

7. Check front and back. 8. Examine right side seams Examine left side seams
panel shading. and underarm seams. and underarm seams.

Apply firm and consistent tension to both sides of seams.

9. Open buttons to check main


label position and stitches.

- 34 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-4. Inspection Method - Example 5 (Sweater)

1. Check front panel on knitting stitches, 2. Examine all the seams by applying
tension and pattern, from upper to firm and consistent tension to both
lower. Check left and right sleeves. Sides of the armhole seams.

3. Check sleeves and turn cuff inside out. 4. Stretch sweep and turn inside out.

5. Check left and right sleeves


and front panel shading.

- 35 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

Inspection Method - Example 5 (Sweater) -Continued

6. Check back panel on knitting stitches, 7. Examine all seams by applying firm
tension and pattern, from upper to and consistent tension to both sides
lower. Check left and right sleeves. of the seams.

8. Check front and back panel shading. 9. Examine left and right side seams
and underarm seams by applying
firm and consistent tension to both
sides of the seams.

10. Stretch neck opening.

Note : For pull-over round neck or turtle neck, stretch the neck to check seam breakage.
Also check the minimum neck stretch measurement to ensure can pass through the head.

- 36 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-5. Inspection Method - Example 6 (T-Shirt)

1. Check front panel,


2. Check neck opening. from upper to lower.

3.Check cuff, inside out.

6. Check inside out of sweep and stitches.

4. Check sleeves,
front and back,
body color shading.

7. Examine right / left side seams and


underarm seams by applying firm
and consistent tension to both sides
of the seams.

5. Check back panel, from upper to lower.

Note : For pull-over round neck or turtle neck, stretch the neck to check seam breakage.
Also check the minimum neck stretch measurement to ensure can pass through the head.

- 37 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-6. Inspection Method - Example 7 (Bra)

1. Check style, labels and hangtags.


Examine front seams for broken
stitches and shading.

2. Unfasten the buckles to check


ƒ the cup position
ƒ consistency of cup shape

- 38 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-7. Inspection Method- Example (7) Bra - Continued

3. Check outside of the bra for


ƒ dirt
ƒ fabric defective

4. Examine all seams to check for broken


stitches by applying firm and
consistent tension to both side of the
seams.

5. Check the length of bra strap, bottom


of cup and side seam.

- 39 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F5.4-8. Inspection Method - Example 8 (Panty)

1. Check front panel and 2. Check back panel and


examine style details examine style details

3. Stretch waist banc for tension

F6. Report writing

4. Stretch leg opening for tension

- 40 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F.6 Report Writing


F6.1 Filling in Final Inspection Report (Blank)

1) Accuracy

2) Complete/Timing

3) Visual/Recognize

4) Initial for correct

5) All parties counter sign

- 41 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F6.2 Filling in Final Inspection Report

- 42 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F6.3 Filling in Final Inspection Report – Measurement

EXPRESS

Remark: Record the actual measurement on report make a circle on the point of “out of tolerance” for
Q.A. manager review.

- 43 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

F6.4. Inspection Report

ƒ All inspection reports must be detailed and reflecting the truth of the audit findings
in an accurate, complete and timely manner.

ƒ Both Major and Minor defects are recorded.

ƒ For garments with multiple defects, put the Major first then Minor. ( e.g. Hole +
puckering )

F6.5. Inspection Result

ƒ “Pass” means that the measurements, color shade, workmanship and fit are all
within acceptable quality level, which results to release of shipment.

ƒ “Fail” means that either workmanship and visual defect / color shade /
measurements or a combination of them is / are out of acceptable level, which
results to rejection of shipment.
ƒ ( Any Critical defect found in an audit will also result to a “Fail” inspection )

ƒ Sorting and rework is required if followed by a re-inspection.

- 44 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

G. DEFECTS CATEGORIES
Three fault classifications (Critical, Major and Minor) have been selected that will be used to
classify all types of defect. The descriptions that are to be followed for identifying which
classification should be selected are:

ƒ Critical: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety hazard to the customer
or end user. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable quantity of critical defects
found within a shipment. ( Details refer to Section G. Defect Types below )

ƒ Major: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance including fit or
customer satisfaction to a degree that would provide a discerning customer with justification
for non-purchase, a return or complaint.

ƒ Minor: Any variation form the standard that is not sufficient in degree to be classified as
major, and that would not provide a discerning customer with justification for non-purchase,
a return or complaint.

ƒ Any 3 defects classified as minor but appeared in a same garment will count one major.

H. DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES


Locations

The location of a fault is important in determining its classification (i.e. major or minor). Two
defect zones (A&B) have been selected for all merchandise categories.

ƒ Zone A: is regarded as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is of critical
importance.

ƒ Zone B: is regarded as a zone where the visual appearance of the garment is important but
not critical.

A set of garment shapes/silhouettes has been provided to assist with the correct selection of fault
classification based on its location. The shapes/silhouettes selected for this purpose are not
intended to be exhaustive. The principals that have been applied to establish the defect zones
are sufficiently generic for universal application.

- 45 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

Type of Defect Garment Zone

STITCHING AND SEAMING A B

Broken stitches which may result in the failure or opening of the seam MAJOR MAJOR

Instances whereby the seam has not been properly closed or the stitching has missed the MAJOR MAJOR
fabric, resulting in an open seam

Excessively loose or unbalanced stitch tensions resulting in unsightly mis-formed seams MAJOR MAJOR
or “see-through” to the body when worn

Seams which are conspicuously roping or twisted


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Excessive seam pucker


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Unfinished or insecurely finished seams (including mis-placed or missing bartacks) that MAJOR MAJOR
will run back and open up during wear.

Poor joins or skipped stitches which look unsightly


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MAJOR

Seams which contain unsightly pleats MAJOR MAJOR

Part of garment caught in any unrelated operation or stitching MAJOR MAJOR

Any needle damage which has occurred to the fabric during seaming
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Any repair where the original seam stitching remains visible MAJOR MAJOR

Poor or incorrect thread selection (including monofilament Nylon) which adversely MAJOR MAJOR
affects performance or appearance of the garment

Stitch type or density (SPI) that is incorrect or different to approved specification or MAJOR MAJOR
garment sample

Stitch margin (seam bite) that is unevenly gauged


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Any stitching or seaming fault that is not mentioned above and which is sufficiently MAJOR MAJOR
conspicuous to adversely affect garment appearance

- 46 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0
DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

Type of Defect Garment Zone

FABRIC A B

Any surface hole, run, drop-stitch, mis-stitch or obvious defect that could develop into a MAJOR MAJOR
hole

Any cuts or tears in the fabric MAJOR MAJOR

Slubs or mis-weaves of any distinguishable sizes that are not part of the fabric design
More than double the correct yarn size MAJOR MAJOR
Same as the correct yarn size and inconspicuous MAJOR MINOR

Any foreign particles caught into the fabric during weaving or knitting
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Any stop marks, broken or missing warp, weft (or pick) yarn in a woven fabric MAJOR MAJOR

Any barre, striations and/or crease lines


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Any needle lines in a knitted fabric


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Any bowing or skewing of the fabric


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Undesirable knot or repair that affects appearance of the fabric


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Fabric that is not made within tolerance of approved specification MAJOR MAJOR

Any nap or pile deformation


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Undesirable odor MAJOR MAJOR

Any fabric flaw or fault that is not mentioned above and which is sufficiently MAJOR MAJOR
conspicuous to adversely affect the appearance of the fabric

- 47 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

Type of Defect Garment Zone

COLOR A B

Any distinctly visible shading differences or mis-matching of panels, belts, belt loops, MAJOR MAJOR
trims, interlinings, threads or buttons

Any fault in printing registration or placement


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Dye spots that are obviously noticeable and detract from the appearance of the garment
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Streaky appearance caused by inconsistent dye take-up (refer to department for standards
relating to merchandise which is either garment-dyed or garment-washed)
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Color off-standard (refer to approved standard)


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MINOR
Apparent but not significant MAJOR MINOR

Any degree of metamerism or flaring


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MINOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Any colorfastness issue that is identified while handling the garment MAJOR MAJOR

Any color fault that is not mentioned above and which is sufficiently conspicuous to MAJOR MAJOR
adversely affect the appearance of the fabric or garment

TRIMMINGS A B

Lace irregular shape, poorly positioned or untrimmed


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR
Bow or motif poorly positioned or loosely attached
Misplaced by more than ¼” MAJOR MAJOR
Misplaced by NOT more than ¼” MINOR MINOR
Loosely attached MAJOR MAJOR
Embroidery or appliqué poorly positioned untidy or unfinished
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR
Hooks and eyes, rivets or snap fasteners poorly positioned, missing or mis-functioning
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR
Zip malfunctions or poorly inserted
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Any trimmings fault that is not mentioned above and which is sufficiently conspicuous to MAJOR MAJOR
adversely affect the appearance or performance of the garment

- 48 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

Type of Defect Garment Zone

BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES A B

Button is missing, damaged or covered button has separated MAJOR MAJOR

MAJOR MAJOR
Button attachment is loose or insecure

Buttons or buttonholes are out of alignment or improperly spaced, affecting appearance


and resulting in distortion
MAJOR MAJOR
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MINOR
Apparent but not obvious

Button loops are irregular inconsistent in size, shape or position, affecting appearance and
resulting in distortion
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Buttonhole is generally untidy, fraying, or contains broken stitches


MAJOR MAJOR
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious

Buttonhole is too small or too large MAJOR MAJOR

Button stitching is too tight preventing functionality MAJOR MAJOR

Spare buttons are missing MAJOR MAJOR

Any button or buttonhole fault that is not mentioned above and which is sufficiently MAJOR MAJOR
conspicuous to adversely affect the appearance or performance of the garment

- 49 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

Type of Defect

APPEARANCE A B

Burn or scorch marks on the surface of the fabric resulting in discoloration or a “shiny”
appearance
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Any evidence of fusible delamination, adhesive strike-through or strike back MAJOR MAJOR

Excessive creasing or marking of the fabric


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Generally unbalanced or uneven appearance to the garment


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Excessive quantity and length of loose threads


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MINOR MINOR

Fraying fabric, raw or unfinished edges which look unsightly


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Mis-matching checks, plaids or stripes on the center front, center back, pockets, plackets
or collars (refer to the standard set by the division)
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Mis-shaped, mis-formed or mis-placed panels or parts including lapels, collars, facings,


interlinings, straps, plackets, darts, waistbands, pockets, belt loops
Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Poorly pressed garments objectionably affecting appearance


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MINOR MINOR

Any part of the garment that is either rough or abrasive and might cause irritation or MAJOR MAJOR
discomfort to the wearer

Any marks, stains, dirt or oil stains


Adversely affecting appearance MAJOR MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MAJOR MINOR

Any appearance fault not mentioned above and which i8s sufficiently conspicuous to MAJOR MAJOR
adversely affect the appearance of the garment

- 50 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

Type of Defect

SIZING, LABELING, PACKAGING AND OTHER FAULTS ALL ZONES

Top and bottom sizes of a 2-Part set mis-match MAJOR

Garment size mis-matches bag size (for acceptable quantity – refer to AQL of the MAJOR
respective division

Garment measurement not within designated tolerances as stated on the approved


specifications
Adversely affecting appearance, fit or functionality MAJOR
Apparent but not significant with minimal impact on appearance, MINOR
fit or functionality

Main label is missing MAJOR

Care, fiber content or country of origin details are missing or incorrect MAJOR

Labels are poorly positioned


More than ½” out of position or off center MAJOR
Between ¼” to ½” out of position or off center MINOR

Hang tags or price tickets that are missing, omitted or insecure MAJOR

Any other fault not covered by all of the above types of defects but which affects the
satisfaction of the customer or end user.
Significant MAJOR
Apparent but not obvious MINOR

THE FOLLOWING TYPES OF DEFECT ARE CONSIDERED TO BE


“CRITICAL” AND UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES CAN BE SHIPPED

Loose components on a garment that is intended for a child (including infant) that could CRITICAL
be considered to be a choking hazard

Any component with a sharp edge or point that could cut or cause bodily harm to a CRITICAL
customer

Loose stones in a garment that has been “stone washed” and which is intended for a child CRITICAL

Drawstrings at the head or neck of a garment that is intended for a child CRITICAL

Any other fault or defect that might cause injury to the end user of the product CRITICAL

- 51 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 52 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 53 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 54 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 55 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 56 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 57 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 58 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 59 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 60 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 61 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 62 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 63 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 64 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 65 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- 66 -
Mast Industries Inc.
Final Auditor’s Inspection Manual Version 2.0

DEFECT TYPES AND ZONES

- End -

- 67 -

You might also like