Microbeads are solid primary microplastics < 5 mm in diameter that are added to cosmetic

products for cleansing and/or exfoliation of the skin. After use, they are discharged into the
drain and end up in Wastewater Treatment Plants (WWTPs), from which they can escape into
waters. They are omnipresent in our environment, from the deepest trenches of the Mariana
to the highest peaks of the Himalayas. These minuscule particles, often unnoticed by the
naked eye, pose a significant threat to marine life, ecosystems, and human health.

Microbeads, with their current function as cleaning or exfoliating agents in cosmetics, were
patented in 1972 (Beach, 1972) and were rarely used until the early 1990, when cosmetic
manufacturers began replacing the most popular inorganic peeling ingredients of the time,
such as the aluminum oxide, or other natural materials like millet or pumice peels with
synthetic polymeric beads. By the early 2000s microbeads had been used to such an extent,
that it was estimated that every household was using at least one scrub containing
microbeads, on a daily or at least on a weekly basis.

Plastic microbeads were preferred over natural alternatives by the cosmetics industry, as they
were proved to be safe to use and effective in removing keratinocytes and expanding skin
pores (Cosmetics Europe, 2019). At the same time, they had several advantages over
inorganic ingredients used in the past since they:

•were less rough and offered smoother exfoliation

•were cheaper

•had lower density, so it was easier to wash-off without blocking drainage

•were highly compatible with the other compounds in the product

•did not cause damage to the containers

On the consumer's side, microbeads succeeded commercially as they were leaving a clean
and soft skin feeling.

Over 90% of microbeads in cosmetics consist of polyethylene (PE) but also microbeads
of polypropylene (PP), methyl methacrylate (PMMA), polystyrene (PS) and
rarely polyethylene terephthalate (PET) have been observed Despite the compound “bead”
which refers to spherical particles, and the common belief that microbeads are the colored
spherical microparticles that can be seen in toothpastes microbeads are mostly of irregular
shape to provide better abrasion. In fact the spherical colored beads are used mainly for
decoration and not abrasion.
Their size can vary from 0.4 nm to 1.24 mm Smaller microbeads are mainly used for facial
cleansers, where a mild abrasion is desirable, while the larger ones are added in body scrubs
where intense abrasion is necessary Microbeads in facial cleansers are 2 to 4 times smaller
than in body scrubs while in toothpastes, where even milder cleansing is needed, they are up
to 100 times smaller

Studies have shown that millions of tons of microplastics are released into the environment
annually through the use of everyday cosmetics, with over 70% of surveyed products
containing microbeads as ingredients. These microplastics are ingested by marine organisms,
entering the food chain and ultimately ending up on our plates. The consequences for marine
life are devastating, leading to ingestion-related injuries, starvation, and even death.

Furthermore, the presence of microplastics in our environment has far-reaching implications

for human health. These particles have been found in our placentas, blood, and lungs, raising
concerns about their potential long-term effects on our health and well-being.

However, amidst this alarming scenario, there is hope. Alternatives to microbeads in

cosmetics exist and are readily available. Natural exfoliants such as ground nuts, seeds, and
shells can replace synthetic microbeads without compromising product effectiveness.
Additionally, innovative technologies like biodegradable polymers offer sustainable solutions
to the microplastics problem.

But change cannot happen in isolation. It requires collective action from governments,
industries, and consumers alike. Legislation must be enacted to ban the use of microbeads in
cosmetics, and companies must prioritize the use of environmentally friendly alternatives. As
consumers, we hold the power to drive demand for sustainable products by making informed
choices and supporting brands that prioritize environmental stewardship.