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CONTENTS

The Home Issue

F E AT U R E S

62
Baklava Memories,
Baghdad Roots
The story of the Iraqi Jews is
preserved and shared through
rosewater-scented baklava,
savory potato-lamb patties,
and tebit, an aromatic stuffed
chicken baked over rice.
By Lucy Simon
74 86
Going Dutch It’s Always Sunny at
Oxtail noodle soup, michelada Flamingo Estate
braised clams, and lemongrass Every elegant detail in an
chicken are just a few of the opulent brunch at Flamingo
reasons the Dutch oven is our Estate in Los Angeles, from
go-to vessel for stewing, delicate buckwheat crêpes to
braising, roasting, and more. a yuzu and lemon cake, is a
By Andee Gosnell lesson in the art of hospitality.
By Khushbu Shah

A table setting at
Flamingo Estate in
Los Angeles (see
story p. 86)

THE RECIPES OBSESSIONS HANDBOOK BOT T L E S E RV I C E T R AV E L F&W CLASSICS

12 25 new dishes to 17 The absolute best 31 How to make 49 Wintertime reds 55 Cape Town, 100 First published
cook now, store-bought foolproof car- from Chile and South Africa, is in 2012, Cecilia
including juicy tomato sauces, bonara, plus Argentina, and home to a seri- Chiang’s fast
PHOTOGRAPHY: HUGH DAVISON

roast chicken, fantastic fridge cozy braises, our favorite ously energized and simple stir-
salmon crudo upgrades on the satisfying veg- vermouths for food scene fried pork and
with coconut, market, sustain- etable dishes, an elemental, that’s redefining cabbage is des-
rice-stuffed veg- able cutting banana choco- essential, and itself, with local tined to become
etables, and a boards made late bread pud- effervescent chefs bringing a regular in your
candied citrus– from chopsticks, ding, and crispy two-ingredient their stories to weeknight din-
topped cake and more hash browns spritz the fore. ner rotation.

10 FEBRUARY 2024 ON THE COVER photography by VICTOR PROTASIO; food styling by MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; prop styling by CHRISTINE KEELY
Groundbreaking molecular titanium ensures a lifetime of beautiful performance.
hestanculinary.com
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KEY:
• •
FAST VEGETARIAN
• STAFF FAVORITE

POULTRY, LAMB, BEEF & PORK

• Braised Beef Stew with
Mustard Greens P. 38
Chicken and Mushroom
Coconut Curry P. 40
Kubba Patata (Lamb-Stuffed
Potato Patties) P. 69
Lamb Korma P. 83
•
•
One-Pot Lemongrass Chicken
and Rice P. 84
Oxtail Noodle Soup P. 80
Pork Belly Roti Wraps P. 42
33
STA F F- FAV O R I T E

• Shanghai Stir-Fried Pork with

Cabbage P. 98
PA I R I N G

SPAGHETTI
•• Spaghetti Carbonara P. 33
Tebit (Chicken Baked in Rice)
CARBONARA
with fruity Chianti
P. 69
Classico: 2021
DRINKS Castellare di
•• Citrus and Galliano Gin Fizz
P. 97
Castellina

SEAFOOD
• Michelada Braised Clams P. 77

•• Salmon Crudo P. 94

VEGETABLE SIDES & MAINS

•• Bamia
Sauce)
(Okra Stewed in Tomato
P. 72

• Beet Tostadas
Buckwheat Crêpes with
P. 35

Caramelized Onions P. 93
• Chile-Glazed Bok Choy with
Shiitakes P. 36

magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless corrected delivery information is received within two years.
• Crispy Hash Browns with
Crème Fraîche P. 44
• Glazed Turnips P. 94
••
72
Kale Salad with Halloumi
Croutons P. 94
•• M’hasha (Sweet-and-Sour
Stuffed Vegetables) P. 72
• Pot-Roasted Beets P. 79 STA F F- FAV O R I T E
PA I R I N G
SWEETS & BAKED GOODS
M’HASHA
•• Chocolate
Pudding
Banana Bread
P. 47 with rich, fragrant,
•• Iraqi Baklava P. 71 bright white: 2017
• Buttercream
Yuzu and Lemon Cake with
Frosting P. 97
Trimbach Reserve
Pinot Gris

What Ray’s Pouring Now Executive Wine Editor

Ray Isle’s favorite things to drink this month
2021 CHÂTEAU PÉGAU CÔTES 2021 ROBERT BIALE 2018 CAIN FIVE ($150)
DU RHÔNE MACLURA ($24) VINEYARDS PARTY LINE
ILLUSTRATION: ANN MARTIN FOLEY

In 2020, the Napa Valley Glass

Pégau is one of a number of
French producers I wrote about in
my recent book, The World in a
Wineglass. This spicy, winter-
warming Grenache blend is an
affordable introduction to the
winemaker’s style and a perfect
pour for dinner parties.
ZINFANDEL ($35)
A party line was a single shared
telephone line. Decades ago, if
you called the Biale house—which
had a party line—and wanted to
buy wine, you’d use the code word
gallo nero. This full-bodied, lus-
cious Zin is a nod to those days.
Fire incinerated most of Cain’s
winery. Thankfully, winemaker
Chris Howell’s actual wines were
stored off-site, meaning that this
savory, complex Cabernet blend
(of five varieties) survived
unscathed—and is drinking beau-
tifully for the holidays.

12 FEBRUARY 2024
 ®

® ® ®
 editor in chief
Hunter Lewis
vice president/general manager Michelle Edelbaum | deputy editor Melanie Hansche
senior editorial director Sean Flynn | executive editor Karen Shimizu | creative director Winslow Taft
associate editorial director, food Chandra Ram | executive wine editor Ray Isle
managing editor Caitlin Murphree Miller | photo director Tori Katherman

FOOD & EDITORIAL DIGITA L

restaurant editor senior food editor
Khushbu Shah Cheryl Slocum
food editor Paige Grandjean
associate food editor Diana Perez
associate editor Amelia Schwartz
assistant food editor Andee Gosnell
assistant editor Lucy Simon
business manager Alice Eldridge Summerville
executive features editor Kat Kinsman
senior editor Maria Yagoda
senior drinks editor Oset Babür-Winter
senior editor, operations Ashley Day
senior social media editor Sam Gutierrez
social media editor Merlyn Miller
senior digital producer Elsa Säätelä
photo editor Alexis Camarena-Anderson

COPY, RESE ARCH & P RODUCTI ON news writer Stacey Leasca

production director Liz Rhoades COMMERCE

copy director Winn Duvall Moore
director Taysha Murtaugh
anti-bias reviewers Oluwatobi Odugunwa, MacKenzie Meno
editorial director, news & deals Katie Macdonald

DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY associate editorial director Megan Soll

associate director, research & testing Meredith Butcher
art director James Slocum
photo editor Dan Bailey editorial project manager, research & testing John Somerall

assistant designer Ann Martin Foley senior editor Dana Fouchia

methodology writer, research & testing Elizabeth Theriot
culinary director at large
Justin Chapple DIGITAL DES IGN
executive producer
senior digital creative director Jesse Blanner
Kwame Onwuachi
digital art directors Sarah Maiden, Sabrina Tan

CONTRIBUTORS
DOTDASH ME RE DITH FO O D ST U DI OS
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vp, content studios Allison Lowery
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Krigbaum, David McCann, Susan Roberts McWilliams, associate test kitchen director Callie Nash
Andrea Nguyen, CB Owens, Andrew Zimmern BRAND SENIOR P ortfolio manager Anna Theoktisto

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B RAND SALES COMMUNICATIONS

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Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24/7 service, please use our website:
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 PROMOTION

Carla Hall, Lifetime Achievement Award recipient Mashama Bailey, Vallery Lomas, Nyesha Arrington,
Dr. Jessica B. Harris, event host Sheila Johnson, Lamar Moore, Damarr Brown, Erick Williams, and
and Alexander Smalls Kwame Onwuachi

Sam Jay, Michael Che, Kwame Onwuachi, and

Pierre Edwards at The Comedy Course Robin McBride with Victoria Andrews

In August 2023 Sheila Johnson, founder

and CEO of Salamander Collection, and
Kwame Onwuachi joined forces with
FOOD & WINE to celebrate diversity in
the hospitality and culinary communities
with the third annual Family Reunion.

Over 1,000 guests gathered for an

R&B artist Joe surprised our guests during the immersive experience featuring a stellar Juvenile surprised our guests with a performance
Block Party during A Night of Mardi Gras
array of speakers, chefs, and sommeliers
for thought-provoking panel discussions,
cooking demonstrations, recreational
activities and daily “family” meals.

Notable chefs like Nyesha Arrington,

Erick Williams, Gregory Gourdet, Preston Clark,
Damarr Brown and Rodney Scott,
Mashama Bailey and more. The programming
highlighted Black cooking traditions that Back: Jesse Jackson III, Roshara Sanders, David Thomas,
Rita McClenny (center) of Virginia Tourism Corp with Serigne Mbaye, Tonya Thomas, and Matthew Lyons
Evan Koppel (left) and Leon Goldberg (far right) of
have shaped cuisine in America and focused Front: Michelle Miller, Effie Richardson, Dr. Jessica B.
United, along with several United Flight Attendants on building a more inclusive future. Harris, and Carla Hall

The event benefited Share Our Strength’s

No Kid Hungry campaign and honored
Dr. Jessica B. Harris with the 2023
Lifetime Achievement Award.

Special thanks to our event partners:

Wells Fargo, Brown Forman,
Virginia Tourism Corporation,
United Airlines, Amazon, Coca-Cola,
Chef Mawa McQueen taught Editor-in-Chief Lexus, McBride Sisters Collection, Brown-Forman’s Shaken & Stirred mixology
Hunter Lewis how to make her famous crêpes Breakout Session
Inspire, Zigma World, AmaWaterways,
McEnearney Associates Realtors,
and Visit Loudoun

2024 tickets will go on sale at the

end of February. Please visit
Salamanderhotels.com/familyreunion
for more information.
The Lexus 2023 RZe, Lexus’s first all-electric vehicle,
was displayed onsite for the weekend
Wells Fargo hosted a Breakout Session that blended
fine food and drinks with financial insights geared
towards elevating Black wealth
 TA ST E T E ST

The Best Tomato Sauce

We tried 100 store-bought
tomato sauces—here’s what
came out on top.
By Amelia Schwartz
FOOD STYLING: EMILY NABORS HALL; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

produced by AMELIA SCHWARTZ photography by GRANT CORNETT FEBRUARY 2024 17

OBSESSIONS

P
ICTURE THIS: It’s pasta night. You don’t have time to make your own
sauce, so you run to the grocery store to pick up a couple of jars. You
walk down the aisle and turn to look at your options, only to see
dozens—hundreds, even—of tomato sauces. You see affordable sauces, premium
sauces, mom-and-pop sauces, and sauces with the same name as that one
famous restaurant in New York City. Where to begin? Well, we at Food & Wine
dove deep into the sauce to help with that conundrum. We tasted a whopping
100 tomato sauces (exclusively marinaras and tomato-basils) to determine the
ultimate best sauce for every category and occasion. (See foodandwine.com/
best-store-bought-tomato-sauce for the full list of winners.)

BEST OVERALL
MONTE’S ORIGINAL
FAMILY RECIPE
TOMATO SAUCE
Monte’s tomato sauce is
everything you could want
in a marinara. It’s at once
smooth, well seasoned,
complex, and nostalgic.
It’s the best jarred sauce
we’ve ever tasted, and we
recommend you add it to
your pantry, stat. ($40 for
six 16-oz. jars, montes
sauce.com)
BEST OLD-SCHOOL BEST IMPORTED BEST VALUE MOST RELIABLE
RED SAUCE
LA SAN MARZANO NEWMAN’S OWN RAO’S HOMEMADE
CARMINE’S MARINARA SAUCE TOMATO & BASIL MARINARA SAUCE
TOMATO BASIL This marinara sauce When you’re in need of Created by the owners of
With five Italian American comes straight from a sauce that’s both tasty Rao’s restaurant in New
restaurants across the Italy, where each of the and affordable, you can York City and recently
country, Carmine’s knows ingredients is sourced and always rely on Newman’s acquired by Campbell’s,
a thing or two about processed. The simple Own. This tomato-basil Rao’s Homemade is con-
red sauce. The addition recipe results in a sauce sauce may not be revolu- sistently excellent. The
of sautéed thinly sliced that shines on its own. tionary, but it has a flaw- flavor is rich, with just the
yellow onions gives every Pour it over some creamy less, just-thick-enough right amount of acidity,
spoonful a delightfully polenta, and top it with texture, it’s seasoned well, and the texture is thick
chunky texture. ($24 a sprinkle of Parmesan. and it’s not too sweet. enough to coat every last
for two 32-oz. jars, ($10 for one 24-oz. jar, ($3 for one 23.5-oz. jar, noodle. ($9 for one 24-oz.
carminesnyc.com) lasanmarzano.com) newmansown.com) jar, raos.com)

18 FEBRUARY 2024
BEST GROCERY STORE BRAND MOST VERSATILE BEST FOR BAKING JUST LIKE GRANDMA’S BEST BASE
ALDI SPECIALLY LUCINI RUSTIC TOMATO MICHAEL’S OF VESPER BROTHERS MEZZETTA FAMILY
SELECTED PREMIUM BASIL SAUCE BROOKLYN FRESH TOMATO BASIL SAUCE RECIPES TOMATO
MARINARA SAUCE This sauce stood out for TOMATO & BASIL Bill and John Vesper use BASIL SAUCE
Grocery store–branded its flavor of fresh, straight- SAUCE the same exact “gravy” For over 85 years, the
sauces get a bad rap, but from-the-garden basil. We want this sauce recipe that their grand- Mezzetta family of
this sauce from Aldi can Made in Tuscany, all of poured over shells, layered mother cooked for them California has been
go head-to-head with any the sauce’s ingredients in lasagna, or mixed into as kids. The blend of the bringing Italian pantry
jar in the tomato sauce go from farm to jar within a casserole of rigatoni sweet, ripe tomatoes and staples to American
aisle. The inclusion of 24 hours. Its juicy, slightly before it’s baked—it’s full whole basil leaves is just tables. Their tomato
Italian tomatoes, garlic sweet flavor would be as of zippy acidity that helps begging to be used in a sauce is a terrific shortcut
puree, and black pepper delicious on a pizza as it balance creamy ricotta chicken Parm or as a dip to a Bolognese, arrab-
makes for a rich, savory would over ravioli. ($9 for or béchamel. ($72 for six for fried calamari. ($30 for biata, or puttanesca.
sauce. ($5 for one 24-oz. one 24-oz. jar, california 32-oz. jars, michaelsof three 24-oz. jars, vesper ($7 for one 25-oz. jar,
jar, aldi.us) oliveranch.com) brooklyn.com) brothersfoods.com) mezzetta.com)

FEBRUARY 2024 19
OBSESSIONS

PA I R I N G P O I N T E R S

Red Sauce, Meet Red Wine

A wine expert’s guide to the best wines to
pair with tomato sauce
By Anthony Giglio

LONG BEFORE I EVER DREAMED of becoming a sommelier (and
later a wine writer and educator), I was tasked, around the
age of 7, with decanting and pouring the wine at my grand-
parents’ weekly Sunday lunches. And that wine was invariably
red because red wine was, and remains, the flavor-enhancing
vehicle that drives many of my Italian family’s meals. The rea-
son? Because so many of those meals employ tomato sauce,
one way or another. Silky, crimson, basil-scented tomato sauce
gets used all year long by my famiglia, not only as the headliner
in penne marinara or the foundation of porky-beefy Sunday
sauce ragù, but also for stracotto braises, pizzas, and as the
delicate underpinning of sauces like amatriciana, Bolognese
bianco, and white clam. (For context, we canned thousands of
jars of sauce every August during my childhood, and we still
do it every summer in my in-laws’ basement across town. For
Food & Wine’s favorite store-bought tomato sauces, see p. 18.)
But what to pour with all this tomato-saucy deliciousness?
For me, pairing wine with tomato sauce is an exercise first in
matching acidity with acidity and then accounting for sweet-
ness and depth, depending on how the sauce is used. In general,
raw tomatoes tend to be high in acid, but cooking them softens
their acidity and heightens their sweetness, which opens up the
wine-pairing possibilities. Here’s what to keep in mind when
selecting that perfect bottle.

FOUR WAYS TO PAIR WINE AND TOMATO SAUCE

GO LOW-TANNIN
I categorically exclude tannic,
full-bodied, oaky reds when
pairing wine with tomato sauce
because the acidity in the sauce
will clash with the tannins. (No
disrespect to Cabernet and
Bordeaux blends, but save them
for a different occasion than
pizza night.)
GO ITALIAN
Look to low-tannin, high-acid
Barbera (as well as slightly less
acidic Dolcetto) from Piedmont;
cool-climate Teroldego, Pinot
Nero, and Schiava from Alto
Adige; earthy-spicy Chianti
Classico from Tuscany; and the
rustic yet elegant red wines of
Mount Etna.
LOOK BEYOND
THE MOTHERLAND
You can rely on Pinot Noir in gen-
eral, as well as practically every-
thing Rhône related, namely the
so-called GSM grapes: Grenache,
Syrah, and Mourvèdre—but if
you’re in Jersey City and try
that with my family, you may get
some funny looks.
TRY SOMETHING
RED AND BUBBLY
Experiment with dry sparkling
Lambrusco. It’s particularly good
paired with pizza because of its
uplifting, tart acidity. Avoid white
wines, especially super light-
bodied wines like Pinot Grigio;
they’ll collapse under the weight
of the sauce.

20 FEBRUARY 2024
 Birmingham,
Alabama–based
potter and editor
Josh Miller

THE OBSESSIVE

Best Plates
Forward
Food folks go for
a spin in the
pottery studio.
By Irvin Lin

FINE-DINING CHEFS understand that a

beautiful ceramic plate can elevate the
food on it to the next level. Many are
taking that insight into their own hands
by making pottery for their restaurants
that is as satisfying to behold as the food
served on it is to eat. There’s chef Dan
Cox in St. Mellion, England, who built
an entire pottery studio to produce the
plateware for his restaurant and farm,
Crocadon (crocadon.farm), which has a
Michelin Green Star (a designation recog-
nizing restaurants that excel in sustain-
ability). There’s also chef Marshall Blair in
Los Angeles, who owns several locations
of The Pottery Studio (thepotterystudio
.com) across California and Chicago—he
produced the dishes for his restaurant,
Blair’s, at the original Atwater Village
location and now sells pottery as well as
clay to would-be ceramicists. “I love it
when guests recognize handmade plates,
bowls, and ramekins,” says
Jennifer Bennett, owner of
Lovina (lovinacalistoga “Cooking and ceramics run chiles, butter beans, and leaves into his pieces (wiley
.com) in Calistoga, Cali- side by side ... They are the pots.com).
fornia. “It really makes us Zach Meloy, a private chef under the name Dirt
ultimate labor of love.”
stand out as a business.” Church Services (dirtchurchservices.com), also incor-
Restaurant guests can pur- porates raw ingredients into his pieces. Meloy studied
chase four-packs of her irregularly shaped eight-inch plates, ceramics in college before going to culinary school, and when
six-packs of her black porcelain ramekins, and individual olive the pandemic hit, he decided to weave his two passions together.
serving dishes and large platters in person, during their meal. Through his supper club, called Mug of the Month, he serves
Josh Miller, a former editor at Food & Wine and current senior five-course meals on his own ceramic vessels—both inspired
PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

food editor at Southern Living, may not have a restaurant to by seasonal ingredients. Last summer, for example, he placed
make plates for, but instead, he educates people in both cook- a peach dessert on a plate that was designed with a peach pit,
ing and pottery-making through workshops in Birmingham, branches, and leaves from a tree in his front yard.
Alabama. Participants can learn how to make slab plates and “Cooking and ceramics run side by side,” says Meloy. “Both
try their hand at throwing on the wheel, all while enjoying his begin their cycle in the earth, are carefully selected and manipu-
appetizers and signature cocktails. Miller also uses his love of lated, receive a new life in the fire, and then reunite again at the
food to create patterns and textures in his own work, pressing table. They are the ultimate labor of love.”

photography by GRANT CORNETT FEBRUARY 2024 21

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OBSESSIONS

End-Grain
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TRANSFORMED
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The Chopping Block ChopValue turns chopsticks

These shelves take cues
from midcentury and
industrial design, but
into cutting boards, coasters, and more. instead of boards made
from felled trees, they’re
By Caroline Mullen engineered from up to
2,188 recycled chopsticks.
They’ll look great holding
IN 2016, while on a sushi dinner date, Felix says Sabrina Kon, ChopValue’s head of commu- jars of pantry goods and a
Böck and his partner, Thalia Otamendi, took a nity and impact. The chopsticks are processed cookbook collection.
look at their single-use bamboo chopsticks and in small factories in Canada, the United States,
saw in them the base for an entirely new prod- Indonesia, Singapore, the United Kingdom, and END-GRAIN BOARD
(FROM $95)
uct. So Böck used his background in wood- Mexico, localizing collection and manufactur-
working and his PhD in structural bamboo ing to cut down on shipping emissions. Weighty and intricately
patterned, this cutting
engineering to come up with a new composite During the production process, the chop- board is easy on knives
material that’s highly durable and sustainable, sticks are sorted by color and material (dark thanks to the sturdy but
looks just as sleek as finished hardwood, and is bamboo, light bamboo, and wood), dipped into gentle end-grain cut of
made entirely of recycled chopsticks. water-based resin, and heated to get rid of bac- 800-plus compressed
chopsticks.
Today, Böck’s Vancouver-based company, teria and moisture. They’re then compressed
ChopValue, collects thousands of used chop- to make modular tiles, which can be used in COASTERS
sticks from restaurants, shopping malls, air- all kinds of home goods. ($14 FOR A SET OF TWO)
ports, hotels, and casinos around the city. ChopValue has now saved over 150 million ChopValue’s coasters
“We’re using waste that people would chopsticks and counting from the landfill, double as conversation
ordinarily throw away and turning it into transforming them into furniture and house- starters, thanks to their
unique origin. Each one
a resource that people can bring into their wares like cutting boards, tabletops, shelving,
diverts 75 chopsticks from
homes, kitchens, restaurants, and businesses,” and drawer fronts. Read on for our favorites. the landfill.

24 FEBRUARY 2024 photography by GRANT CORNETT

 THE COOLEST FRIDGE
INNOVATIONS
LIEBHERR PEAK
BIOFRESH
REFRIGERATOR
Every shelf in this unique,
built-in refrigerator with
BioFresh (technology that
precisely controls the cli-
mate to keep food fresh)
is a full-extension glass
drawer on telescopic rails.
Inspired by refrigerated
display cases in fine Euro-
pean delicatessens, the
sliding shelves allow you
to easily reach the back of
the fridge. (From $3,399,
liebherr.com)

MIELE MASTERCOOL
COLLECTION
Miele’s PerfectCool model
sprays the produce in
your vegetable drawer
with a fine mist to keep it
fresher longer. Designed
to improve food preserva-
tion and reduce waste, the
PerfectFresh Active system
converts water from a
small container in the base
unit into vapor, misting
veggies every 90 minutes
(and when you open the
fridge door). (From $8,199,
mieleusa.com)

The Liebherr Peak Bio-
Fresh refrigerator’s
full-extension glass
drawers make it easy
for people of all heights
to see into the fridge.
Fridges Freshen Up
There’s plenty of cool innovation right now in the
world of home refrigerators.
THE WORKHORSE OF THE KITCHEN,
PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF LIEBHERR
BEKO HARVESTFRESH
TECHNOLOGY
Appliance brand Beko’s
new HarvestFresh tech-
nology simulates the
sun’s natural light cycle
in its crisper drawers via
three different-colored
light zones—blue, green,
and red. By mimicking the
sun, the proprietary light
system is said to keep the
AT H O M E contents fresher for up
to 30 days while also pre-
serving the food’s vitamin
content. (From $1,299,
beko.com)
LG MOODUP
REFRIGERATOR
By Melanie Hansche I’ve dubbed this whim-
sical innovation the
“disco fridge.” Clad in
a refrigera- While our fridge did have some features that color-changing LED door

tor rarely makes for an exciting topic—until you were cool back then (C.S. Lewis references panels, this LG fridge has
need to buy or sell one. Faced with the need to aside), the refrigerator and freezer category has more than 190,000 color
combinations. Pair with
do the latter when my husband and I relocated come a long way in the 10 years since, incorpo- its Bluetooth speaker, and
from Australia to the U.S. a decade ago, we rating smart Wi-Fi–enabled features, flex- and the panels will change
advertised our fridge online as the “Gateway to dual-zone technology, and more creative colors color to the beat of the
Narnia.” Our ad promised an interdimensional and finishes. The most exciting refrigerators of music, or turn the panels
off and enjoy a Lux Grey
portal to conquer parallel universes, noting today may not include a gateway to a magical or Lux White finish. (Price
that if you climbed inside, you could truly feel world, but they do represent the next frontier not available as of press
the icy grip of the White Witch. in design and innovation. time, lg.com)

FEBRUARY 2024 25
 2nd annual

MARCH 13 - 17, 2024

Top row from left to right: Nobu Matsuhisa | Alex Guarnaschelli | Alon Shaya
Bottom row from left to right: Martha Stewart | Robert Irvine | Michael White

FOR TICK E TS A ND HO TE L ROOM S , V I S IT

N PI WF F.ORG # N P I WF F
 5 DAYS 24 + EVEN TS
The Nassau Paradise Island Wine & Food Festival presented by Atlantis Paradise Island,
is The Bahamas’ premier wine and food festival. The five-day annual event showcases the
talents of the world’s most renowned wine and spirits producers, award-winning chefs, and
culinary personalities, and exclusive performances by musician Wyclef Jean and DJ Kim Lee.
Join us in support of The Atlantis Blue Project Foundation.

Top row from left to right: Andrew Zimmern | JJ Johnson | Tony Abou-Ganim | José Andrés
Bottom row from left to right: Duff Goldman | Wyclef Jean | DJ Kim Lee
OBSESSIONS

F&W GROWS

Royal Red
Red kuri is the winter squash that’s
worth growing at home.
By Nadia Hassani

ALTHOUGH WINTER SQUASHES ARE DELICIOUS, their rambling vines take up a lot of space.
Every square foot in a vegetable garden is valuable real estate, so it may not be worthwhile
to grow butternut or acorn—squashes that are easy to find at your local grocery store or
farmers market. But red kuri, a teardrop-shaped squash that may be more difficult to
track down, is worth making room for. Also known as orange Hokkaido, red kuri squash
has a sweet, nutty taste and an edible skin, giving pies and soups a deep orange color
and smooth texture. Its weight—three pounds or less—makes it the perfect, approachable
squash to grow at home.

1 2

Start Your Seedlings Off Strong Prevent the Pests

Red kuri squash takes 90 days to mature, so
order your seeds now and plan on starting
them in May. Plant two to three seeds in a
biodegradable pot like Jiffy. ($16 for 12 pots,
amazon.com) After the seedlings emerge,
use scissors to cut down all but the strongest
stem at the base. After about three weeks,
when the seedling looks strong, transplant
it to the garden. I plant one squash seedling
every three feet in case of the occasional
hungry deer or groundhog—if all the squash
survive, they can be thinned out later.
Red kuri squash is susceptible to two seri-
ous pests: striped cucumber beetle and
squash vine borer. The feeding of the striped
cucumber beetle can infect the plants with
bacterial wilt, a devastating, untreatable dis-
ease, and squash vine borers damage plants
by tunneling into stems and causing them to
wilt and die. Spray insecticidal soap on the
plants regularly and after every rainfall, and
to prevent fungal diseases from spreading,
always water the plants at the base rather
than from overhead.

FOOD STYLING: LAUREN MCANELLY; PROP STYLING: JOSEPH WANEK

3 4 5

Lure Pollinators Keep On Pruning Leave the Stem On

with Flowers
All members of the cucurbit
family—which includes
squash—need insects for
pollination. To attract pol-
linating insects such as
honeybees and native bees,
make sure to plant cosmos,
coneflowers, sunflowers,
borage, or other flowering
plants next to your red kuri.
Shortly after the first flush
of male flowers, female flow-
ers will produce fruit. Once
you see three tiny squashes
on a plant, snip off the fuzzy
ends of the vines to direct
the plant’s energy toward
the existing fruit instead of
producing more vines. Keep
snipping off new vine ends
whenever they appear.
Harvest as early as Sep-
tember, when squashes are
deep orange, the skin has
hardened, and the stem has
dried up. Cut them off the
vine with at least two inches
of the stem intact. They can
be stored for three months
in a cool, dark place, but in
my family, they’re gobbled
up by Thanksgiving.

28 FEBRUARY 2024 photography by KELSEY HANSEN

 Red kuri squash’s
rich, nutty flavor profile
makes it a delicious
candidate for cozy soups. Get
Alice Waters’ Red Kuri Soup
recipe at foodandwine.com/
red-kuri-squash-soup.

FEBRUARY 2024 29
GET INVESTED
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 HANDBOOK
THE TECHNIQUE

Cracking the Carbonara Code

The secret to the best, most foolproof
version of the classic pasta
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: SHELL ROYSTER

Spaghetti Carbonara
(recipe p. 33)

produced by PAIGE GRANDJEAN photography by VICTOR PROTASIO FEBRUARY 2024 31

HANDBOOK

PASTA CARBONARA

THERE ARE AS MANY WAYS to make

carbonara, a decadent pasta dish in
a sauce of eggs, grated cheese, and
cured pork, as there are cooks who
prepare it: Everyone has their own
way of doing it. But which way is best?
At the Food & Wine Test Kitchen, we 1 2
set out to create the ultimate version.
BROWN THE GUANCIALE BLOOM THE BLACK PEPPER
With such an elemental recipe, the
Cook guanciale in a medium skillet over low, stir- Pour 3 tablespoons of hot guanciale drippings
ingredients really matter. Many car- ring often, until lightly browned and fat is mostly over black pepper to infuse the fat with a bold,
bonara recipes call for egg yolks, but rendered, about 10 minutes. peppery flavor.
through our tests, we discovered that
a combination of whole eggs and egg
yolks yielded better results. “A sauce
made from only egg yolks is incredibly
rich and delicious but often requires
thinning with pasta water on the back
end, which can be tricky,” says F&W
recipe developer Liz Mervosh. Includ-
ing egg whites, which are about 90%
water, helps loosen the sauce to a
creamy consistency.
Pecorino Romano, a sharp sheep-
milk cheese, can lean salty, especially
when combined with cured pork in
carbonara; Mervosh found that a 50-
50 ratio of Parmigiano-Reggiano and
Pecorino Romano hit the mark, bal-
3 4
ancing sharp, salty, and nutty flavors.
As for the cured pork element, we WHISK EGGS AND CHEESE TEMPER WITH PASTA COOKING LIQUID
Add egg yolks, whole eggs, Pecorino Romano, Slowly add 1/4 cup hot pasta cooking liquid to
tested three types. Bacon was too and Parmigiano-Reggiano to black pepper mix- egg mixture, whisking constantly, to loosen
smoky, and the slices were too thin, ture; whisk well to combine. sauce and gradually begin warming eggs.
not providing the proper amount of
chew. Pancetta had a pleasantly clean
flavor but lacked fattiness. Guanciale
was just right: Its richness, infused
with a hint of smoke and subtle barn-
yard funkiness, added complexity to
the elemental sauce.
As most people who’ve tried their
hand at carbonara know, without a
solid technique, that luscious, eggy
sauce is one step away from scram-
bled eggs. To prevent a rapid increase
in temperature, which would coagu-
late the proteins, Mervosh tempered
the eggs in a separate bowl off the
stove, gradually warming them with
hot pasta cooking liquid while whisk-
5 6
ing constantly. Swirl in hot spaghetti,
and all that’s left to finish the dish is SWIRL IN SPAGHETTI STIR TO THICKEN
a showering of cheese and cracked Working in batches, transfer hot spaghetti Continue stirring pasta with tongs until sauce
directly from boiling water to egg mixture, stir- thickens to a silky consistency and clings to spa-
black pepper. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN ring constantly with tongs. ghetti, about 1 minute.

32 FEBRUARY 2024
Spaghetti Carbonara
TOTAL 30 MIN; SERVES 4
A combination of egg yolks and whole eggs
gives this sauce a silky texture. Sharp,
salty Pecorino Romano cuts through the
fattiness of the crispy guanciale, while the
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese adds a nutty
undertone. Temper the eggs with hot pasta
cooking liquid to prevent scrambling.
3 oz. Pecorino Romano cheese, plus
additional grated Pecorino Romano
for garnish
2 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
4 qt. water
1 tsp. black pepper, plus more for
garnish
4 oz. guanciale, cut into 1/4 -inch
pieces (about 3/4 cup)
5 large egg yolks
2 large eggs
3 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 (16-oz.) pkg. spaghetti (preferably
bronze-cut) (see Note)
1. Grate Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-
Reggiano on medium holes of a box grater
(see Note); set aside. Bring 4 quarts water
to a boil in a large pot over high. Mean-
while, place pepper in a large heatproof
bowl; set aside. Cook guanciale in a
medium skillet over low, stirring often,
until lightly browned, fat is mostly ren-
dered, and guanciale feels crisp with a
bouncy texture when squeezed, about 10
minutes. Pour 3 tablespoons hot guanci-
ale drippings over pepper in bowl; set
guanciale aside. Add egg yolks, eggs, and
cheeses to pepper mixture; whisk until
thoroughly blended, and set aside.
2. Add salt to water in pot; return to a boil
over high. Add pasta; cook according to
package directions for al dente, stirring
occasionally. About 1 minute before pasta
is finished cooking, scoop out 1/4 cup cook-
ing liquid, and slowly pour into egg mix-
ture, whisking constantly, until well
combined and sauce is loosened.
3. Transfer about one-third of pasta to
egg mixture using tongs, allowing excess
liquid to drip off in pot; quickly and gently
toss to combine. Transfer remaining
pasta, allowing excess liquid to drip off in
pot, to egg mixture; toss until cheese is
melted and sauce thickens slightly and
coats pasta, about 1 minute. (The sauce
will continue to thicken as it cools.)
4. Divide pasta evenly among 4 shallow
serving bowls, and top with reserved
crisped guanciale. Garnish with pepper
and grated Pecorino Romano. Serve
immediately. —LIZ MERVOSH
WINE Fruity Chianti Classico: 2021
Castellare di Castellina
NOTE For a cheese-grating shortcut,
break the cheese into large pieces, and
process in a food processor fitted with the
blade attachment until fine crumbles
form. Bronze-cut pasta, such as De
Cecco, is extruded through perforated
metal plates, or dies, giving the pasta a
rough, porous surface, ideal for slick
sauces like carbonara to cling to. Find
bronze-cut spaghetti at most grocery
stores or online at supermarketitaly.com.
FEBRUARY 2024 33
HANDBOOK

34 FEBRUARY 2024 photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

 F&W COOKS

Pride of Produce
Chef Steven Satterfield’s vegetable-forward dishes
nourish, instruct, and comfort.

SIMPLE AND SENSATIONAL ALL AT ONCE —that’s the mark of chef
Steven Satterfield’s way with vegetables. Satterfield has spent the
past 15 years showcasing seasonal, plant-focused cooking at his
Atlanta restaurant, Miller Union, and in cookbooks, including
his latest, Vegetable Revelations.
Satterfield’s sensibility is in full force in the recipes that fol-
low: Each puts a nourishing, satisfying dish on the table while
at the same time teaching cooking techniques that accent and
augment the textures and flavors of fresh produce. Beets are
oven-braised and grated for satisfying Beet Tostadas; the beauti-
fully seasoned root vegetables sit atop a silky black bean puree
that can be thrown together while the beets slow-cook in the
oven (recipe below). For Chile-Glazed Bok Choy with Shiitakes
(p. 36), bok choy is pan-seared just long enough to char the
edges while still highlighting the vegetable’s crunchy, juicy
character. Both dishes are an invitation to enjoy Satterfield’s
singular brand of produce-forward cooking while staying solidly
in the comfort-food zone. —CHERYL SLOCUM

Beet Tostadas
ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 40 MIN
SERVES 6
A hearty heap of beets braised with chiles
and spices tops this tostada. While it takes
about an hour to cook the beets, it’s a
mostly hands-off task, which leaves you
ample time to make the other compo-
nents: a simple puree of canned black
beans and a topping of quick-pickled rad-
ishes and green onions that offer a tangy
contrast to the earthy beets.
PICKLED VEGETABLES
2 scallions, thinly sliced (about
1/2 cup)
1 large jalapeño, thinly sliced (about
1/2 cup)
2 small radishes, thinly sliced (about
1/4 cup)
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. fine sea salt
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: JILLIAN KNOX
1/2 cup chopped yellow onion
1 tsp. chile powder (such as ancho)
1 (15-oz.) can black beans (undrained)
2 Tbsp. lime juice
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
12 (6-inch) corn tostada shells
1/2 tsp. flaky sea salt
4 oz. queso fresco or crumbled feta
cheese (about 2/3 cup)
1/2 cup roasted pepitas
Fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish
1. Make the pickled vegetables: Stir
together scallions, jalapeño, radishes,
lime juice, fine sea salt, and vinegar in a
small bowl. Let stand, uncovered, at room
temperature while preparing tostadas,
stirring occasionally to ensure vegetables
are evenly marinated.
2. Make the tostadas: Preheat oven to
350°F. Place beets in a 13- x 9-inch baking
4. While beets braise, heat remaining 2
tablespoons oil in a small saucepan over
medium. Add onion, remaining 2 garlic
cloves, and remaining 1 teaspoon kosher
salt; cook, stirring often, until onions are
translucent and softened, 4 to 5 minutes.
Stir in chile powder and remaining 1 tea-
spoon cumin; cook, stirring constantly,
until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add
black beans and their liquid; cook, stirring
often, until heated through, 4 to 5 min-
utes. Transfer mixture to a blender. Add
lime juice, and process until smooth,
about 30 seconds. Set aside.
5. Arrange tostada shells on a flat sur-
face. Spread about 2 tablespoons black
bean puree in an even layer on each
tostada shell. Sprinkle reserved grated
beets with flaky sea salt, and toss to com-
bine. Scatter about 1/4 cup grated beets on
each tostada. Drain reserved pickled veg-
etables, and divide evenly among tosta-
das; top evenly with queso fresco and
pepitas. Garnish with cilantro; serve with

pan. Add 8 garlic cloves, lime quarters,

1 tsp. white vinegar or apple cider lime wedges. —STEVEN SATTERFIELD,
guajillo chile pieces, 1/4 cup kosher salt, 2
vinegar MILLER UNION, ATLANTA
teaspoons cumin, coriander, and crushed
BEET TOSTADAS red pepper, if using. Drizzle beets with 2 MAKE AHEAD Pickled vegetables can be
tablespoons oil; add just enough water to stored in an airtight container in
2 lb. small to medium-size red beets,
come halfway up sides of beets. Place a refrigerator up to 2 hours. Beets can be
scrubbed and trimmed
piece of parchment paper over beets, and roasted, cooled, drained, and stored in an
10 large garlic cloves, divided
cover pan tightly with aluminum foil. airtight container in refrigerator up to 3
4 limes, quartered, plus lime wedges days. Grate beets, and let come to room
for serving 3. Roast beets in preheated oven until just
temperature about 15 minutes before
2 dried guajillo chiles, torn into 1-inch fork-tender, 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 min-
assembling tostadas.
pieces (about 1/2 cup) utes. Remove from oven, and let stand,
covered, 15 minutes. Drain beets, and let WINE Juicy, chillable red: 2022 Troon
1/4 cup plus 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
cool completely, about 30 minutes. Dis- Glou-Glou Grenache
1 Tbsp. ground cumin, divided
card braising mixture. Peel beets; grate NOTE Beets can also be grated using a
2 tsp. ground coriander using the large holes of a box grater (see food processor fitted with the grating
2 tsp. crushed red pepper (optional) Note). Set grated beets aside, covered, at attachment. Cut beets into pieces that
1/4 cup olive oil, divided room temperature. will fit through the chute.

FEBRUARY 2024 35
SKIP THE
HANDBOOK
MEAL PREP
SCARIES
WITH
STOUFFER’S
SIDES.
Chile-Glazed Bok Choy
with Shiitakes
TOTAL 50 MIN; SERVES 4
Crisp-tender bok choy and chewy shiitake
mushrooms are coated in a sweet-and-
savory, chile-flecked sauce in this
umami-packed side dish. It’s a great
match for rice and simply steamed fish
or shrimp.
2 lb. baby bok choy (3 to 4 inches
long), halved lengthwise (see Note)
1 1/2 tsp. fine sea salt, divided
5 Tbsp. canola oil (or other neutral
oil), divided
6 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems
removed (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
(about 1 1/2 Tbsp.)
1 Tbsp. honey
1 Tbsp. tamari
2 tsp. gochugaru (see Note) or
crushed red pepper
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
1. Place bok choy, cut sides up, on 2
large rimmed baking sheets. Sprinkle
evenly with 1 teaspoon salt. Let stand at
room temperature 10 minutes.
All trademarks are owned by
Société des Produits Nestlé S.A., Vevey, Switzerland. 36 FEBRUARY 2024
2. Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in a large
skillet over medium-high until hot, about
3 minutes. Add mushrooms in an even
layer; sprinkle with remaining 1/2 tea-
spoon salt. Cook, undisturbed, until
golden brown, about 2 minutes. Flip
mushrooms, and cook, undisturbed, until
golden brown on other side, about 2
minutes. Transfer mushrooms to a plate;
set aside. (Do not wipe skillet clean.)
3. Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in skillet
over medium-high. Working in 4 batches,
cook bok choy, cut sides down, undis-
turbed, until golden brown, 3 to 5 min-
utes, adding an additional 1 tablespoon
canola oil per batch. Transfer bok choy to
a plate. (Do not wipe skillet clean.)
4. Reduce heat to low. Add vinegar,
garlic, honey, tamari, gochugaru, and
sesame oil to skillet; whisk to combine.
Cook until slightly thickened, about 30
seconds. Add bok choy and mushrooms,
turning to coat. Cover; cook until bok
choy centers are tender when pierced
with a fork, 6 to 8 minutes. Garnish with
sesame seeds. —STEVEN SATTERFIELD,
MILLER UNION, ATLANTA
WINE Off-dry, peachy, floral white: 2022
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling
NOTE Baby bok choy is available at most
Asian markets. Find gochugaru, a
Korean chile powder, at most Asian
markets or online at thespicehouse.com.
WHEN DINNER DREAD
HITS, THE ANSWER IS
MEATYCHEESY.
HANDBOOK

CHEF-INSPIRED

Cozy Does It Chef Asha Gomez shares her

tips for boldly flavored braises in three
hearty winter warmers.
TO CREATE THE FOLLOWING RECIPES, the Food & Wine Test Kitchen started by talking to
Asha Gomez, award-winning chef and author of the cookbooks My Two Souths and I
Cook in Color. In her own cooking, Gomez draws inspiration from the American South
and her birthplace of Kerala in southern India; what better person to provide ideas
for big-flavored, crowd-pleasing dinners? The resulting recipes are based on Gomez’s
descriptions and parameters, streamlined by our testers to yield bold, satisfying one-
pot meals that are just what the season calls for. —ANDEE GOSNELL

Braised Beef Stew with
Mustard Greens
ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 5 MIN
SERVES 6
Marinated in a sweet-and-savory mixture
of molasses and soy sauce, hearty pieces
of chuck roast simmer in a cinnamon-
infused broth with carrots and mustard
greens. Toast the cinnamon sticks until
fragrant to release their oils and help them
permeate this one-pot stew with their
warm and comforting flavor.
1/4 cup molasses
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 Tbsp. grated peeled fresh ginger
(from 1 [2-inch] piece)
3 large garlic cloves, grated (about
1 1/2 tsp.)
1 (2-lb.) boneless chuck roast, cut
into 1-inch pieces
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 small cinnamon sticks
1 sweet onion (such as Vidalia),
coarsely chopped (about 2 1/4 cups)
1/4 cup tomato paste
6 cups unsalted beef stock
2 carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise,
and thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 cups)
4 cups chopped mustard greens
(from 1 medium bunch)
1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes
(undrained)
2 Tbsp. mirin
1. Whisk together molasses, soy sauce,
ginger, and garlic in a medium bowl until
combined. Add beef, and stir until evenly
coated. Cover with plastic wrap, and chill
at least 1 hour or up to 12 hours.
2. Heat oil in a medium Dutch oven over
medium-high. Add cinnamon sticks; cook,
stirring constantly, until fragrant and
toasted, about 1 minute. Transfer cinna-
mon to a plate; set aside. Working in 2
batches, remove beef from marinade,
reserving marinade, and add beef to
Dutch oven. Cook, flipping occasionally,
until evenly browned, about 4 minutes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer beef to
plate with cinnamon sticks. Repeat pro-
cess with remaining beef. Reserve pan
drippings in Dutch oven.
3. Add onion to Dutch oven, and cook over
medium-high, stirring occasionally, until
softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomato
paste; cook, stirring constantly, until color
darkens to rusty red, about 1 minute. Add
beef, cinnamon sticks, stock, and
reserved marinade; bring to a simmer
over medium-high. Reduce heat to
medium-low; cover and cook, stirring
occasionally, until beef is tender, 1 hour
and 15 minutes to 1 hour and 45 minutes.
4. Stir in carrots; cover and simmer, stir-
ring occasionally, until carrots are tender,
about 15 minutes. Stir in mustard greens,
tomatoes, and mirin; cook, stirring occa-
sionally, until mustard greens are tender,
about 5 minutes. Discard cinnamon
sticks; serve. —MELISSA GRAY
MAKE AHEAD Beef can marinate, covered,
in refrigerator up to 12 hours. Stew can be
prepared through step 3 up to 2 days in
advance and stored in an airtight
container in refrigerator. Bring to a
simmer over medium-low, and proceed
with step 4 as directed.
WINE Rich, spicy red blend: 2021 Field
Recordings Fiction

38 FEBRUARY 2024
FEBRUARY 2024 39
HANDBOOK
Chicken and Mushroom
Coconut Curry
ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR; SERVES 4
This bright golden curry features juicy
chicken thighs with cremini mushrooms,
aromatics, and rich coconut milk. For
an extra boost of creaminess and to amp
up the coconut fragrance, a splash of
evaporated coconut milk is stirred in just
before serving.
2 Tbsp. unrefined coconut oil
(see Note)
4 (8-oz.) bone-in, skin-on chicken
thighs, patted dry
1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
8 oz. cremini mushrooms, quartered
1 large shallot, finely chopped
(about 1/2 cup)
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
(about 1 Tbsp.)
1 Tbsp. curry powder (such as Burlap
& Barrel)
1 tsp. ground turmeric
40 FEBRUARY 2024
1 (13.5-oz.) can coconut milk, well
shaken and stirred
1/3 cup water
1 Tbsp. fish sauce
1/2 cup evaporated coconut milk (such
as Nature’s Charm) (see Note)
Chopped fresh cilantro and chile
oil, for garnish
Cooked rice, for serving
1. Heat oil in a high-sided medium skillet
over medium-high. Sprinkle chicken
evenly with salt. Place chicken in skillet,
skin side down; cook, undisturbed, until
skin is golden brown and crispy, about 8
minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate,
reserving rendered fat in skillet; set aside.
2. Add mushrooms to skillet; cook over
medium-high, stirring occasionally, until
golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add shallot;
cook, stirring often, until softened, about
3 minutes. Add garlic, curry powder, and
turmeric; cook, stirring constantly, until
fragrant, about 30 seconds.
3. Stir in coconut milk, 1/3 cup water, and
fish sauce until combined. Return chicken
thighs to skillet, skin side up. Bring to a
simmer over medium-high. Reduce heat
to medium-low; cook, uncovered, swirling
pan occasionally, until sauce is thickened
and a thermometer inserted in thickest
portion of chicken thigh registers 165°F,
20 to 25 minutes.
4. Transfer chicken thighs to a shallow
serving bowl. Add evaporated coconut
milk to skillet, and stir to combine; pour
curry evenly over chicken thighs. Garnish
FOOD STYLING: TORIE COX; PROP STYLING: MAT GIBILISCO
with cilantro and chile oil. Serve with rice.
—MELISSA GRAY
WINE Fruity, tart natural rosé: Gut
Oggau Winifred
NOTE Unrefined coconut oil has an
intense coconut flavor and aroma. Find it
at most grocery stores or online at target
.com. Evaporated coconut milk is a sweet,
versatile, dairy-free alternative to
evaporated milk. Find it at most grocery
stores or online at mercato.com.
photography by VICTOR PROTASIO
 Nancy Silverton Carlton McCoy

Gary Obligacion

Anthony Giglio, Alice Waters,

Bobby Stuckey and Carlin Karr and Andrew Mariani

Daisy Ryan

Justin Pichetrungsi and Suzanne Tracht Claudette Zepeda

Gavin Kaysen, Josiah Citrin, Evan Funke,

Christopher Kostow and Ellen Marie Bennett
HANDBOOK
Pork Belly Roti Wraps
ACTIVE 45 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 25 MIN
SERVES 4
Roti, a soft, thin Indian flatbread, serves as
a wrap around savory cubes of pork belly.
The melt-in-your-mouth-tender meat,
braised in a mixture of apple cider vinegar
and brown sugar and spiced with coriander
and cumin, is inspired by pork vindaloo, an
Indian stew cooked in a vinegar-based mar-
inade. Roll the wraps just before serving to
prevent the roti from becoming soggy.
Alternatively, we recommend bringing the
fixings to the dinner table to allow guests to
fill their own.
5 whole cloves
3 small dried chiles de árbol
1 Tbsp. coriander seeds
1 Tbsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. black mustard seeds
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
1 Tbsp. chopped peeled fresh ginger
(from 1 [2-inch] piece)
42 FEBRUARY 2024
1/4 cup chopped garlic (about 12 garlic
cloves), divided
2 tsp. kosher salt
2 lb. pork belly, skin removed, cut
into 1-inch pieces
2 Tbsp. ghee
1 white onion, thinly sliced (about
2 1/4 cups)
10 fresh curry leaves (see Note)
2 cups vegetable stock
Warm roti (see Note) and shredded
romaine lettuce, for serving
1. Toast cloves, chiles, coriander seeds,
cumin seeds, and mustard seeds in a
small skillet over medium, stirring often,
until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in tur-
meric; cook, stirring constantly, until fra-
grant, about 15 seconds. Remove from
heat, and let cool 5 minutes.
2. Transfer spices to a blender; process
until finely ground, about 30 seconds.
Add vinegar, brown sugar, ginger, 1 table-
spoon garlic, and salt; process until
smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer mar-
inade to a medium bowl; add pork belly,
and toss to coat. Set aside, uncovered, at
room temperature.
3. Heat ghee in a large Dutch oven over
medium-high. Add onion, and cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until lightly browned,
about 5 minutes. Add curry leaves and
remaining 3 tablespoons garlic; cook, stir-
ring constantly, until leaves begin to
crackle and garlic is fragrant, about 30
seconds. Add pork belly, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until pork begins to brown,
about 8 minutes. Stir in stock, and bring to
a simmer over medium-high, stirring occa-
sionally. Reduce heat to medium-low;
cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until
pork is tender and caramelized, about 1
hour and 45 minutes.
4. Remove from heat; skim off and dis-
card as much fat as possible. (It’s OK if
there is still a little fat on the surface.) To
serve, roll up pork belly and romaine let-
tuce in roti. —MELISSA GRAY
BEER Citrus-forward IPA: Stone Brewing
Stone Delicious
NOTE Fresh curry leaves, commonly used
in Indian cooking, have a slight bitterness
and citrusy scent similar to lemongrass.
Find them at most Indian or Asian grocery
stores or online at ranibrand.com. Roti is
available at most Indian grocery stores.
 Parchment
Other Parchment Paper
with Stay Flat Dispensing

© 2024 Reynolds Consumer Products, LLC.

HANDBOOK

MOST WANTED

Hash Brown Heaven

A San Diego steakhouse is raising
the bar on fried potatoes.
CRISPY AND GOLDEN WITH CREAMY CENTERS, the hash browns at
RECIPE FROM
Born and Raised, a swanky modern steakhouse in the Little Italy
BORN AND
RAISED district of San Diego, are a must-order side dish. Cut with preci-
San Diego
sion into rectangular sticks from russet potatoes that have been
baked, grated, and pressed into a pan to chill, the hash browns are
fried to order, topped with a dollop of cooling crème fraîche that
drapes over the hot potatoes, and finished with a generous dose
of trout roe. These lavish hash browns have been a staple on the
menu for years—and once you make them at home, they’re sure
to become a regular at your own table, too. —PAIGE GRANDJEAN

Crispy Hash Browns with
Crème Fraîche
ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 25 MIN, PLUS 8
HR CHILLING; MAKES 24 STICKS
Served at brunch or dinner, these crispy,
golden potato sticks topped with a blanket
of crème fraîche and briny trout roe will
steal the show. The hash browns take a bit
of forethought, but they freeze beautifully
and can go straight from freezer to frying
whenever a craving strikes.
3 1/2 lb. russet potatoes (about 5 large
potatoes)
1/4 cup unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot
2 Tbsp. thinly sliced fresh chives,
plus more for garnish
1 1/2 Tbsp. potato starch
1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/2 tsp. black pepper, plus more to taste
mixture into bowl with potatoes. Add
chives, potato starch, salt, and pepper;
stir mixture until well combined.
3. Line a 13- x 9-inch baking sheet with
parchment paper, and grease with oil.
Spread potato mixture evenly on baking
sheet; press firmly to compact. Cover
mixture with another sheet of parchment
paper, and top with a separate 13- x
9-inch baking sheet.
4. Bake at 350°F for 30 minutes. Transfer
to a wire rack (with top baking sheet still
in place), and let cool 1 hour. Transfer to
refrigerator; place a large can or weight
on top baking sheet to compress potato
mixture. Chill at least 8 hours or up to 24
hours. Cut chilled potato mixture into 24
(about 1- x 4-inch) sticks.
5. Heat 2 inches of oil in a large, deep pot
over medium to 360°F. Working in batches,
fry potato sticks, turning occasionally, until
crisp and golden brown, about 4 minutes.
FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

Vegetable oil, for greasing and
frying
Crème fraîche and trout roe,
for serving
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place potatoes
on a baking sheet; roast until tender when
pierced with a fork, about 1 hour and 15
minutes. Let cool 30 minutes. (Leave oven
on.) Peel potatoes; discard skins. Grate
potatoes on large holes of a box grater into
a large heatproof bowl; set aside.
2. Melt butter in a small saucepan over
medium. Add shallot; cook, stirring often,
until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Pour
Transfer hash browns to a paper towel–
lined baking sheet, and season with salt
and pepper to taste.
6. Serve hash browns topped with crème
fraîche and trout roe. Garnish with chives.
Serve hot. —CHARLEEN SANDOVAL, BORN
AND RAISED, SAN DIEGO
MAKE AHEAD Hash browns can be
prepared through step 4 and frozen on a
parchment paper–lined baking sheet until
hard, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a
ziplock plastic freezer bag, and freeze up
to 1 month. Fry directly from frozen,
increasing frying time to about 5 minutes
per batch.

44 FEBRUARY 2024 photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

Reynolds Kitchens® Pop-Up Parchment
Sheets make preparing these hash
browns simple.
SPONSORED BY

FEBRUARY 2024 45
HANDBOOK

46 FEBRUARY 2024 photography by GREG DUPREE

 EASY BAKES

Better with Bananas

This chocolaty bread pudding gets a deep, fruity
sweetness from bananas.
By Andee Gosnell

RIPE BANANAS OFFER A FRUITFUL LESSON in
time management. Exiting a grocery store with
bright yellow bananas in tow, I always feel like
I have endless time to use them. Skip forward a
few days, and I’m rapidly casting about for ideas
for how to rescue my soft, browning fruit from
a trip to the compost bin. That’s how I came
across this banana bread pudding from chef
Nichole Accettola, chef and owner of Kantine,
a Scandinavian-inspired eatery in San Fran-
cisco, and author of Scandinavian from Scratch.
“When I found myself at work with a bunch of
ripe bananas, a soft bread pudding with creamy
pockets of chocolate custard seemed like the
perfect way to use them up,” Accettola told me.
Bananas aren’t the only ingredient that finds
new purpose in her dessert—stale bread is also
essential because of its drier texture, ideal for
soaking up the custard. Accettola recommends
day-old sourdough to give the pudding a subtle
tang, balancing the sweetness of the chocolate
and banana. Serve this craveworthy dessert à
la mode for a cooling contrast to the warm and
gooey bread pudding.

Chocolate Banana
Bread Pudding
ACTIVE 35 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 40 MIN
SERVES 6 TO 8
A creamy chocolate custard sweetened
with ripe bananas and warm baking spices
soaks into tangy sourdough bread in this
fresh take on bread pudding from chef and
cookbook author Nichole Accettola. For
custardy desserts like bread pudding that
require gentle heat, Accettola recom-
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: SHELL ROYSTER
1/4 tsp. ground cardamom
1 (1 -lb.) day-old sourdough bread
1/2
loaf, cut into 1-inch cubes (about 16
cups) (see Note)
Hot water
Vanilla ice cream or whipped
cream, for serving
1. Lightly grease a 9-inch square baking
pan with butter; set aside.
2. Whisk together sugar, 1 cup cream, 1 cup
milk, 1/2 cup chopped chocolate, and cocoa
in a large saucepan. Cook over medium,
chopped chocolate and half of the banana
slices (about 1 cup). Spoon remaining
bread-custard mixture on top; spread in
an even layer. Sprinkle with remaining 1/4
cup chopped chocolate and remaining
banana slices.
5. Place baking pan inside a large roasting
pan. Transfer roasting pan to oven; add
hot water to roasting pan until water
reaches halfway up sides of baking pan
(about 1 1/2 inches), being careful not to
splash any water on the bread pudding.

mends a water bath, or bain-marie. The
water surrounding the dessert holds a
steady temperature, ensuring the custard
doesn’t curdle.
Unsalted butter, for greasing pan
1 cup granulated sugar
1 3/4 cups heavy cream, divided
1 3/4 cups whole milk, divided
1 cup chopped bittersweet baking
chocolate (such as Guittard),
divided, plus shavings for garnish
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa
3 ripe bananas, divided
6 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 Tbsp. vanilla extract
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
whisking often, until sugar dissolves and
chocolate melts, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove
from heat; whisk in remaining 3/4 cup
cream and remaining 3/4 cup milk.
3. Mash 1 banana in a large bowl. Stir in
melted chocolate mixture. Whisk in eggs,
vanilla, salt, and cardamom until well com-
bined. Add bread cubes; stir to coat evenly
in chocolate mixture. Let stand at room
temperature, uncovered, stirring occa-
sionally, until most of the liquid has been
absorbed by the bread, about 45 minutes.
4. Preheat oven to 325°F. Cut remaining 2
bananas into 1/2-inch-thick coins. Spoon
half the bread-custard mixture (about 6
cups) into prepared baking pan, and
spread evenly. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup
6. Bake in preheated oven until center of
bread pudding is set and a thermometer
inserted in center registers 165°F, about
1 hour and 15 minutes. Remove from oven.
Remove baking pan from roasting pan, and
let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Serve
warm with ice cream, and sprinkle with
shaved chocolate. —NICHOLE ACCETTOLA,
KANTINE, SAN FRANCISCO
MAKE AHEAD Leftover bread pudding,
cooled completely, can be covered and
stored in refrigerator up to 4 days. To
serve, reheat pudding, covered, in a 350°F
oven until warm, 15 to 25 minutes.
NOTE If you don’t have day-old bread, you
can lightly dry out fresh bread cubes by
baking them at 325°F for 5 to 7 minutes.
Let cool completely, about 15 minutes.

FEBRUARY 2024 47
 PROMOTION

A NEW PODCAST BY

Available now, with new episodes every Tuesday

The first season of Tinfoil Swans serves up intimate and uplifting interviews
with the most compelling icons and innovators in the culinary industry.
Tastemakers like David Chang, Guy Fieri, and Mashama Bailey share the
successes, failures, and fork-in-the-road moments that propelled their
careers—and what they’re cooking up next.

Follow Tinfoil Swans wherever you get your podcasts.

 BOTTLE SERVICE
FOOD STYLING: EMILY NABORS HALL; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

C O C K TA I L H O U R

The Shape-Shifter A vermouth

spritz is the most versatile drink
you can make.
By Oset Babür-Winter

produced by RAY ISLE photography by GRANT CORNETT FEBRUARY 2024 49

 SIX GREAT
BOTTLE SERVICE

VERMOUTHS FOR
YOUR NEXT SPRITZ
ELEVEN MADISON
HOME NONALCOHOLIC
VERMOUTH ($25)
You don’t have to make
a reservation at NYC’s
Eleven Madison Park to
try one of the restaurant’s
most thoughtful creations.
With notes of licorice,
tangerine, and lemon, this
booze-free vermouth is
unlike anything else on the
market; try it for a brunch-
time spritz.

LITTLE CITY DRY

VERMOUTH ($35)
You might be familiar with
the exceptional Rieslings
and Gewürztraminers of
New York’s Finger Lakes,
but this vermouth is made
using Cayuga White and
Valvin Muscat, grapes that
are indigenous to that
region. Green apple notes
hit you with the first sip,
and ginger, pepper, and
oregano flavors linger at
the end.

CARPANO BIANCO ($26)

Is there a better feeling
than when a bottle that
looks chic on your bar
also happens to be incred-
ibly refreshing? Carpano
Bianco’s workhorse white
vermouth brings welcome
vanilla, grapefruit, and
baking-spice notes to a
spritz and nicely combines
both style and substance.

T
HE VERMOUTH SPRITZ is the white button-down of my home bar. It’s incredibly simple to throw
together, feels both polished and relaxed, and can adapt to any meal or occasion without much
fuss. Crisp and relatively low in alcohol, this simple two-to-one ratio of club soda to vermouth is
my favorite drink to sip on while cooking—especially if I can add a splash or two from the same bottle
to deglaze the onions I’m sautéeing in a pan or to add some subtle complexity to my pasta sauce. Just
make a vermouth spritz one time, and I promise you’ll find yourself wondering: Why hasn’t this simple
concoction been among my go-to cocktails all along?

50 FEBRUARY 2024
 ALL THE SPRITZES,
ALL THE TIME
To make a vermouth
spritz with any of the
vermouths recommended
here, use the basic
two-to-one ratio of club
soda to vermouth. It
makes unfailingly
excellent spritzes.

COCCHI DOPO TEATRO

VERMOUTH AMARO
($22)
This vermouth is proof of
Cocchi’s skill at coaxing
out complexity in herba-
ceous spirits. With notes
of Cherry Vanilla Coke,
grenadine, and bitter
oranges, it’s a bright aperi-
tif that avoids becoming
cloying thanks to an infu-
sion of woodsy cinchona.

MARTINI & ROSSI

ROSSO VERMOUTH
($12)

If you’re going to have

just one red vermouth in
your home bar, it should be
this one. This sweet,
amber-hued, classic ver-
mouth, with its subtle
licorice notes, is easy to
find, affordable, and versa-
tile. Expect flavors of black
tea and honey, bergamot,
and jasmine.

RISERVA CARLO
ALBERTO VERMOUTH
DI TORINO WHITE
VERMOUTH ($35)
A complex vermouth from
Piedmont, this makes
for an incredibly special
spritz. Made by infusing
a blend of two wines with
25 herbs and spices, this
white vermouth adds
distinct coffee notes and
toffee and caramel flavors
to each drink.

FEBRUARY 2024 51
BOTTLE SERVICE
CHILEAN REDS
2021 IN SITU RESERVA
CARMENÈRE ($13)
Sustainably farmed grapes
from Chile’s Aconcagua
W H AT TO D R I N K N O W Valley go into this refresh-
ing red; it avoids Carme-
nère’s more herbal side,
Head South! Argentinean and Chilean leaning instead toward
dark tobacco and mul-
reds are perfect for winter fare. berry notes.
By Ray Isle 2022 ROOT:1
CARMENÈRE ($13)
FOR ME, WINTER MEANS TWO THINGS. First, it’s the season for cooking recipes
Unapologetically Car-
that warm you up from the inside with a warmth that lasts: rich stews and menère, this intense
daubes, hearty soups, and old-school classics like shepherd’s pie. Second, it red abounds with green
calls for the wines that go with them: intense, full-bodied reds, with plenty tobacco and green pep-
percorn notes; they play
of robust flavor and a good brawny measure of tannins as well, all the better
off the wine’s basic red
to balance out the lusciousness of something like, oh, cassoulet. (Did I forget cherry flavor but never
cassoulet in my list of warming winter dishes? Terrible oversight.) overwhelm it.
There are lots of sources for these kinds of wines, but lately I’ve been look-
2021 LAPOSTOLLE
ing to Chile and Argentina. Recent vintages have been extremely good: 2019 APALTA ($20)
was stellar, 2020 impressive even during a global pandemic, 2021 cooler but
Lapostolle garnered
balanced and fresh (trickier in Chile than Argentina), 2022 again stellar. (2023 tremendous acclaim for
was marred by disastrous forest fires in southern Chile, sadly.) And while Clos Apalta, one of the
both countries still produce some of the world’s great values—particularly first superstar Chilean
reds. This more afford-
Malbec in Argentina and Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère in Chile—the old
able, black cherry–ripe
assumption that that’s all they can make has thankfully been abandoned. Top blend, with its soft, velvety
reds from both countries are world-class, able to compete with the best of the tannins, is a nod to that
United States and Europe. It’s an excellent time to explore—and an excellent wine. It’s made from 54%
Cabernet Sauvignon along
month for it, for that matter. After all, if you pick up a glass of South American
with small amounts of
red right now, you can transport yourself a few thousand miles south, where, Syrah, Carmenère, Merlot,
yes, it is currently the height of summer. and Cabernet Franc.
52 FEBRUARY 2024 photography by GRANT CORNETT
2020 PRIMUS
CARMENÈRE ($21)
Only organically farmed
grapes from Chile’s Col-
chagua Valley are used
for this savory red. The
dark cherry flavors are
accented by tea leaf and
tobacco notes and a hint
of vanilla from 18% of the
wine having been aged in
new oak barrels.
2019 COUSIÑO-MACUL
ANTIGUAS RESERVAS
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
($22)
Antiguas Reservas is a
Chilean stalwart—the first
vintage was 1927, amaz-
ingly enough—and the
2019 continues the tradi-
tion. Think red currant and
raspberry flavors and a
faint touch of eucalyptus.
2020 EMILIANA COYAM
($36)
Emiliana is the largest bio-
dynamic grower in Chile,
and, in fact, the world.
FOOD STYLING: EMILY NABORS HALL; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN
Equally impressive is this
Syrah blend with its juicy,
palate-whetting acidity
and vivid black and red
fruit notes.
2021 CONCHA Y TORO
MARQUES DE CASA
CONCHA HERITAGE
($50)
If a substantial roast is
in your future, this full-
bodied, powerful blend of
mostly Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (with some Cabernet
Franc) is just the ticket.
Its cassis and black plum
flavors wrap up with firm
but velvety tannins.
ARGENTINEAN REDS
2022 TILIA MALBEC 2019 DOMAINE 2021 VER SACRUM 2021 CLOS DE LOS 2021 ZUCCARDI Q
($14) BOUSQUET GAIA GARNACHA ($21) SIETE ($22) MALBEC ($22)
This easygoing, medium- CABERNET SAUVIGNON This fragrant Grenache France’s Michel Rolland Zuccardi’s high-end wines
($20) (Garnacha in Argentina)
bodied Malbec from Tilia is one of the most famous are some of the best in
Wines in Mendoza—the It’s rare to find an inexpen- comes from multitalented wine consultants in the Argentina, but even their
winery that was the first sive Cabernet that doesn’t winemaker Eduardo world, yet his personal more affordable Q line
to qualify for the Bodegas whop you over the head Soler—he’s also an project in Argentina re- offers impressive depth.
de Argentina Certified with oomphy fruit, and acclaimed mountaineer mains an absurd value. It’s This vintage of the Q
Sustainable seal—is a this one fits the bill: It’s and runs a ski resort near elegant, with black currant Malbec is a case in point
remarkable bargain, balanced and lively and, Mendoza. It’s a perfect and pencil lead notes: with its ripe, black-plum
abounding with peppery what’s more, comes from red to serve lightly chilled, Argentina seen through a character lifted by a subtle
cherry fruit. 100% organic grapes. no matter the season. Bordeaux lens, perhaps. herbal note.

2020 VIÑA COBOS 2019 EL ENEMIGO

COCODRILO CORTE
($30)
Star California winemaker
Paul Hobbs has long made
wine in Argentina, and his
deep familiarity with the
Uco Valley and Luján de
Cuyo regions shows in the
complexity and depth of
this powerful Cabernet
Sauvignon blend.
CABERNET FRANC ($30)
This vivid red, with its
blueberry-blackberry
flavors and herbal edge,
is just a total pleasure to
drink. And if you can’t find
it, El Enemigo’s Malbec
is just as good, with a
somewhat darker fruit
character and a touch of
sweet oak.

2021 DOMAINE NICO 2019 BODEGAS

GRAND MÈRE PINOT
NOIR ($35)
Argentina’s Mendoza
region isn’t often associ-
ated with Pinot Noir, but
this spicy, floral wine
from Laura Catena (of the
renowned Catena wine
family) offers a different
story. It’s impressively aro-
matic and silky and a true
pleasure to drink.
BIANCHI ENZO
BIANCHI GRAN CORTE
MENDOZA ($60)
Grapes for this luscious
Bordeaux-style blend
come from 30-year-old
vines high up in Mendoza.
The slightly cooler tem-
peratures there give the
wine’s layers of rich blue
and red fruit an impressive
focus and length.

FEBRUARY 2024 53
Credit approval required. Terms apply. See capitalone.com for details.
 TRAVEL

Chef Nolukhanyo
Dube-Cele champions
South African
identity through food
at Seven Colours
Eatery in Cape Town.
PHOTOGRAPHY: MARGUERITE CHANDLER

WHERE TO GO NEXT

Cape Town’s Next Chapter

A wave of homegrown chefs are telling their
stories on the plate in the South African city.
By Sarah Khan

produced by MELANIE HANSCHE FEBRUARY 2024 55

T R AV E L

D
URING THE FOURTH COURSE of the tasting menu at
Emazulwini Restaurant in Cape Town, a profound epicu-
rean epiphany unfolds in a bowl in front of me. The dish of
PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE, FROM TOP RIGHT) COURTESY OF BOMA ON BREE, COURTESY OF THE HAPPY UNCLES (2)
ulimi noshatini—ribbons of corned beef tongue draped with crispy
onions, dolloped with amasi cream (a type of buttermilk), and
drowned in a fiery translucent tomato broth—is unlike anything I
have ever tasted in this city I once called home. Through her culi-
nary alchemy, chef Mmabatho Molefe draws me into her child-
hood home in KwaZulu-Natal, and with each slurp, my palate ab-
sorbs her nostalgia.
“The idea has always been to challenge misconceptions and
prejudices that people have regarding African food,” Molefe says.
In the open kitchen at Emazulwini, an airy industrial space
warmed by scarlet accents and contemporary Nguni craftsman-
ship, she conjures fresh takes on Zulu cuisine, leaning on her ex-
perience in prestigious Cape Town kitchens to reimagine the food
she grew up eating. Creamy samp (coarsely ground hominy), a
staple in South African households, takes the form of croquettes,
and corn is also presented as roasted kernels topped with sweet
(OPPOSITE) COURTESY OF ELLERMAN HOUSE
corn mousse, and as a side of isinkwa sombila, steamed corn-
bread. “This is what the creative future of African ingredients
looks like,” Molefe declares. As I dive headfirst into a pumpkin
and maize tart with brown butter ice cream, I wonder: What took
so long?
I lived in Cape Town a decade ago, and while reporting on its
dynamic food scene, I made countless pilgrimages to the city’s
award-winning restaurants. While ingredients like amasi cream
occasionally made token appearances on a few celebrated tasting
menus, the establishments I covered were nothing like Molefe’s,
instead channeling French, Italian, and Japanese influences. On
clockwise from top:
Absie Pantshwa is
one of the partners
at Boma on Bree;
fine-dining spot
The Happy Uncles
offers Cape Malay
food and dry ice for
drama (middle).
opposite: The pool
terrace at Ellerman
House.
returning—my first time back since the pandemic—I’m excited to
witness a kind of culinary homecoming, with Cape Town chefs
championing indigenous ingredients like never before. With years
of training in South Africa’s White-dominated elite restaurants
under their belts, a wave of Black and Brown chefs are carving
new paths for themselves by returning to their roots.
“Molefe is telling the story of her life and her memories,” says
Ishay Govender, a food journalist and author of Curry: Stories &
Recipes Across South Africa. The shift in restaurant kitchens syn-
chronizes with a shift in its dining rooms, too. The makeup of
Cape Town’s restaurant workers and patrons has long been a stark
reflection of the country’s economic and racial disparities, but on
this visit, I notice more diversity in the surrounding tables. “We’ve
always had the servers and waitstaff being predominantly Black at
most of our establishments,” Govender tells me. “So now, as peo-
ple of color are feeling comfortable and also have a little disposable
income, things are changing in the dining scene.”
Craving a burger one afternoon, I drop by Seven Colours Eatery,
where a juicy beef patty comes topped with chakalaka (spicy
tomato and bean relish) and amasi cream on roosterkoek, freshly
grilled bread. “What I’m trying to do is reimagine what a South
African restaurant should look like,” says chef-owner Nolukhanyo
Dube-Cele. “People are not really exposed to what local South
African food is; this is what should be all over Cape Town.”
FEBRUARY 2024 57
T R AV E L
At Tapi Tapi, an ice cream parlor in Observatory, a quirky sub-
urb brimming with students from nearby University of Cape
Town, owner Tapiwa Guzha, who finished a PhD in molecular
biology before opening the business in 2020, is recasting in dairy
dishes he grew up eating in Zimbabwe. I sample scoops of ivhu,
an edible Zimbabwean clay; mursik masawu, inspired by a
Kenyan fermented milk (mursik) and fermented fruit wine
(masawu); and matemba toffee, made from dried fish. It’s all
unlike any ice cream I’ve ever had, and that’s the point. “Ulti-
mately, wherever the empires ended up, the foodscapes changed
quite significantly in favor of what the colonists preferred,”
Guzha says. “So for centuries, we’ve all been slowly convinced
that our local things are not worthwhile.”
South Africa’s Cape Malay community has been a vital part of
the country’s culinary landscape, too. Brought over as enslaved
people and political exiles by the Dutch from their colonies in
Indonesia and Malaysia, many were put to work in home kitch-
ens. Over the centuries, they mingled with Africans, Europeans,
Indians, and Arabs, creating a Muslim culture unique to South
Africa and a hybrid cuisine indigenous to Cape Town.
It’s a cuisine that’s largely been relegated to home kitchens
and simple eateries, but all that changed in 2022, when Anwar
Abdullatief opened The Happy Uncles, Cape Town’s first halal
fine-dining restaurant, where he plates classic Cape Malay fare
with sculptural elements. “Cape Malay flavors have never been
represented in the Cape Town contemporary dining scene,”
Abdullatief says. After a starry career at Winelands institutions
like Delaire Graff and Clos Malverne, he longed for a kitchen
where he could actually sample all of the meat and avoid alcohol.
58 FEBRUARY 2024
left: Stuffed poppadom cones at Vadi-
velu. above: Ellerman House’s famous
gin trolley is wheeled out daily at sun-
down. opposite: An aerial view of Cape
Town shows the city’s famous Clifton
Beaches in the foreground and its dis-
tinctive Twelve Apostles Mountain
Range, which forms the back of Table
Mountain, in the background.
He brings that dream to life at Happy Uncles, where a simple
Malay chicken curry arrives in a spicy charred tomato risotto, and
all eight courses are paired with tea instead of wine.
In November, Abdullatief opened Barakat at the new Time Out
PHOTOGRAPHY: (THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) SAM WILKINSON, COURTESY OF ELLERMAN HOUSE
Market, where he serves more traditional dishes like lamb
knuckle bredies (stews) and prawn curries. Also at the market is
Mlilo, which pays homage to live-fire cooking across the African
continent, opened by Vusi Ndlovu a few months after he debuted
Boma on Bree in August on trendy Bree Street. Both restaurants
come on the heels of a successful five-month pop-up of Ndlovu’s
fine-dining Edge at the storied Mount Nelson Hotel, where he
steeped steak in a mopane worm soy sauce (mopanes are an im-
portant protein source across the African continent that Ndlovu
turns into an umami-rich soy sauce), made a panna cotta out of
PHOTOGRAPHY: (OPPOSITE ) COURTESY OF ELLERMAN HOUSE
egusi (melon) seeds and scattered it with rooibos tea jellies, and
served steamed ujeqe bread with a beef essence that, apparently,
had a salubrious effect. “I had people say that we saved their
marriage with our bread course,” he says with a laugh. “There
was a couple fighting on their seven-year anniversary; we gave
them the bread course, and they were in love again.”
If only it were always that easy. Restaurateurs in Cape Town
are impacted by a daily onslaught of challenges, from political
instability to near-constant power cuts, and many struggle to
secure funding. But for these chefs, the effort is worth it. “We can
open in London tomorrow and be a whirlwind success. But I
don’t want to fight the good fight from London; let me fight the
good fight here,” says Ndlovu. “We will be the ones who cracked
the ceilings. We will shatter whatever infrastructure was put in
front of us to fail.”

WHERE TO EAT
Emazulwini Restaurant
One wall at this Zulu-
inspired restaurant
doubles as a hall of fame
of South African all-star
ingredients, with jars
of Durban curry, sor-
ghum, rainbow maize,
and peri-peri on dis-
play. (instagram.com/
emazulwini_restaurant)
Tapi Tapi
On any given day, the ice
cream case holds flavors
like rooibos and the smoke
of imphepho (a sacred
plant) or the ash of fynbos
(a group of native plants,
some of which depend
on fire to propagate) with
the country’s native
sweet-tart kei apples.
(tapitapi.co.za)
60 FEBRUARY 2024
clockwise from left: The Penthouse
at The Silo Hotel has a bird’s-eye
view over Cape Town and its own
cinema room; Mmabatho Molefe is
the chef-owner of Emazulwini, a
restaurant that celebrates Nguni and
Zulu cuisines and ingredients, which
line the walls of the dining room.
WHERE TO STAY
PHOTOGRAPHY: (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) COURTESY OF THE SILO HOTEL, PARIS BRUMMER (2)
Seven Colours Eatery Boma on Bree The Silo Hotel impressive 9,000-bottle
Named for a traditional While he finalizes a Cape Town’s most allur- collection. Don’t miss the
family meal, this casual permanent home for his ing hotel sits atop the daily gin trolley on the
eatery serves tshisan- celebrated fine-dining splashy Zeitz Museum of terrace at sundown.
yama (literally, “burnt pop-up Edge, chef Vusi Contemporary Art Africa. (Rooms from $866,
meat”) chops and a sig- Ndlovu and partner Absie The industrial bones of a ellerman.co.za)
nature spin on chakalaka Pantshwa are having former silo set the back-
relish dolloped on their fun with this playful, drop to bold jewel tones
The Dorp
juicy burgers. (seven fire-focused concept on and a museum-worthy
This quirky retreat, sit-
colourseatery.co.za) the city’s main dining art collection. (Rooms
ting high atop Signal Hill,
drag. (instagram.com/ from $1,770, theroyal
feels less like a hotel than
bomaonbree) portfolio.com)
The Happy Uncles a charming old-world
One standout at this hamlet. Dorp means “vil-
halal fine-dining experi- Vadivelu Ellerman House lage” in Afrikaans, and the
ence features dry ice: South Africa’s Indian It’s hard to pry your eyes 38 chic rooms are clus-
oumense onder die community first arrived away from the sweeping tered around courtyards
komberse (“old people more than 150 years views of Bantry Bay from and gardens overlooking
under the blankets”), a ago, and their cuisine the cliffside perch of this Table Mountain. (Rooms
take on a Cape Malay has evolved into its own elegant 13-room villa, but from $180, dorp.co.za)
favorite served here with distinct vernacular. Try the Wine Gallery might
osso buco–stuffed cab- sugar bean curry and suji do the trick: Set around
bage doused in a clove (semolina) pudding at this a strikingly sinuous
and nutmeg jus. (the new spot on trendy Kloof corkscrew-shaped wine
happyuncles.com) Street. (vadivelu.co.za) rack, the cellar has an
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 FO O D PR ES ERV ES T H E STORY OF THE I RAQI J EWS, A STO RY O F START ING OV ER .
WRITTEN AND PRODUCED BY LUCY SIMON PHOTOGRAPHY BY VICTOR PROTASIO

62
IRAQI BAKLAVA
p. 71
 My grandmother’s
kitchen was on the
Upper East Side, but
it tasted of Iraq.
As Ama brushed butter onto sheets of phyllo dough, she’d share
stories of her girlhood in Baghdad. “We’d swim in the Tigris
with water buffalo,” she’d say with delight at my amazement,
each layer of pastry unfurling more memories. “To escape the
summer heat, we’d sleep on the flat rooftops in the cool night
air.” She’d yell to my grandfather in the living room in Arabic,
give my dad instructions in French, and speak politely to my
measured Methodist mother in English, but to me, she spoke
loving words that needed no translation; she’d call me ayuni
(my eyes) and qalbi (my heart). I’ll never know my Ama’s
verdant, cosmopolitan Baghdad, in the region my ancestors
called home for 2,500 years. But in her kitchen, I could taste it.
The food of the Iraqi Jews tells our story. M’hasha (recipe
p. 72) is about community. The project of coring vegetables,
stuffing them with herbed rice, and stewing them in tangy
tamarind is made quick by many hands. Tebit (recipe p. 69)
is a distinctly Jewish dish. Traditionally made to feed dozens
of family members on the Sabbath, the spiced chicken and
rice are placed in the oven on Friday night and cooked over-
night on low through Saturday. Whole eggs are placed on the
top to bake for a Sabbath breakfast, and the rice is still warm
by dinner. Kubba Patata (recipe p. 49), lamb-stuffed potato
patties redolent with curry powder, recalls the centuries of
successful trade between Baghdad and the
Indian cities of Kolkata and Mumbai. Baklava
(recipe p. 71) is the sweet made for massive COOKING IS A WAY
family weddings—a celebration calls for shell-
OF REMEMBERING,
ing hundreds of pistachios.
To me, the spirit of the Iraqi Jews comes SAFEGUARDING, AND
most alive in the simplest of dishes, like Bamia CELEBRATING; IT’S A
(recipe p. 72), okra stewed in sweet-and-sour FORM OF PRAISE.
64 FEBRUARY 2024
tomato sauce. Where other cultures have mother sauces, we
have lemon and sugar. Intense yet balanced, bamia gets its flavor
from a combination of the two—a combination that expresses the
history of the Iraqi Jews, both its sweetness and its bitterness.
The story of the Iraqi Jews is a tale of two exiles: the first,
when Nebuchadnezzar II destroyed the First Temple in Jeru-
salem around 587 B.C., and the second, beginning after World
War II, when the Jews were expelled from Iraq. The Jews who
traveled to Babylon as captives and exiles began the community
that would thrive for centuries as Babylonian, Mesopotamian,
or Mizrahi Jews. “By the rivers of Babylon we sat and wept ...
How can we sing the Lord’s song in a foreign land?” asks the
writer of Psalm 137. For more than 2,500 years, the Iraqi Jews did
just that in the city known since the eighth century as Baghdad.
Baghdad’s Jewish community prospered in business, trade,
and government, most notably under the Ottoman Empire. The
Sassoons, my grandfather’s family, were among the most influ-
ential, establishing global trade routes between India, China,
and Britain. With the fall of the Ottoman Empire in the early
20th century, everything changed. As my grandfather Abdallah
Simon writes in his memoir, Vintage Years, “The establishment
of an independent state of Iraq following World War I effectively
marked the beginning of the end for Iraqi Jews. The fact that
they are virtually non-existent in Iraq today is a sad footnote
after over two millennia of thriving.” Fueled by rising Arab
nationalism and Nazi propaganda, hundreds of Baghdadi Jews
were massacred in June 1941 in a multiday pogrom called the
Farhud; homes were pillaged and communities ravaged.
My grandfather became a lieutenant in the Iraqi army soon
after and was able to travel to Rio de Janeiro by way of Tehran,
Cairo, and Lisbon, where he took a boat to Philadelphia, secur-
ing one of the 150 U.S. visas available to Iraqis that year. In 1948,
my grandmother attempted to flee over the Zagros Mountains
in the north of Iraq by dressing as a nun; she was caught but
eventually escaped later that year hiding under a sheet in the
back of a family car on a drive into Iran. A small number of
Jews (including Doris Zilkha, who developed the recipes that
follow; see p. 71) lived there into the 1970s, when they were
pushed out as Saddam Hussein came to power in 1979. Today,
the Jewish population of Baghdad can probably be counted on
the fingers of one hand.
Those who made safe passage planted new roots in places
like Israel, London, Montreal, and New York. My grandfather
joined the wine business, founding Chateau & Estate, a fine wine
importer later acquired by Seagram. My childhood memories
include tastes of his French wines paired with my grandmother’s FOOD STYLING: CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINA DALEY
Iraqi food served on green-and-white-painted Perrier-Jouët
plates. On the most special occasions, he would open bottles
PHOTOGRAPHY (OPPOSITE): COURTESY OF THE SIMON FAMILY
of Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Époque or Château Lafite Rothschild.
At Shabbat dinners, he would say the kiddush over glasses of
Trimbach Pinot Gris.
“How can we sing the Lord’s song in a foreign land?” The ques-
tion still resounds. Cooking is like singing. It’s a way of remem-
bering, safeguarding, and celebrating; it’s a
form of praise. For many diasporic communi-
ties, it’s a way of connecting. Cooking, eating,
and sharing Iraqi Jewish food, now without my
grandparents, who have been gone for over a
decade, has helped me imagine a place I never
knew, but a place that is a part of me. I’ll never
know their Baghdad, but I can taste it.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: David Sassoon,
brother of my great-great-great-grandfather
Simon Sassoon, India, 1850s; the wedding of
my great-grandparents, Frank Iny and Mazli
Masri, Alliance Israélite Universelle, Baghdad,
1924; family portrait of the engagement of
my great-grandparents Hayawi Isaac Simon
(seated left) and Amouma Bashi (seated
third from left), Baghdad, 1912; my grand-
father “Ab” Simon, president of Chateau &
Estate, 1985; wedding of my grandparents Ab
Simon and Francine Iny in New York, 1952; Sir
Philip Sassoon, Prince Edward, and Winston
Churchill at a polo match, England, 1921.
Honoring
a Heritage
COOK
Oded Halahmy left Baghdad
in 1951 and worked as a multi-
media sculptor between New
York and Jaffa, Israel. He remem-
bers Iraq mostly through his
art, but in 2022, he published a
cookbook titled Iraqi Cooking:
Exile Is Home ($34, amazon
.com), which includes his own
recipes for dishes like kibbeh
and cheese-filled sambusak.
Daisy Iny, a distant cousin of my
grandmother, published the first
Iraqi cookbook made for U.S.
home cooks called The Best of
Baghdad Cooking with Treats
from Teheran in 1976. While few
copies remain (you can some-
times find them on Amazon), the
book has served as a touchstone
for myself and other Iraqi Jewish
cooks, and it is well worth
snapping up if you find a copy.
LEARN
Edited by Tamar Morad, Dennis
Shasha, and Robert Shasha,
Iraq’s Last Jews: Stories of
Daily Life, Upheaval, and
Escape from Modern Babylon
($25, amazon.com) is a book
of oral histories of the last gen-
eration of Jews who lived in and
escaped from Iraq. The stories
are poignant, personal, and brave
but chronicle the everyday, too—
like how a mother would shop for
a group of 30 at the market, or
how families preserved dates in
summer. Mizrahi Jews are from
all around the Middle East and
North Africa. Follow Ciara Sha-
lome’s Instagram account @the
mizrahistory for oral histories
of Mizrahi Jews from Iraq, Egypt,
Yemen, Tunisia, and beyond.
GROW
The Iraqi Seed Collective is a
global organization that seeks to
preserve Iraqi heritage through
the genetic legacy of crops by
saving and sharing heirloom
seeds of Iraqi produce varieties.
“The thing about seeds is that
you can eat and share the fruit
and save more seeds as you
grow,” says Ali Ruxin, a founding
member. “In the context of our
history, there’s something so
hopeful about seeds.” Follow
@iraqiseedcollective on Insta-
gram, and join the collective to
learn more about growing plump
fava beans, tender okra, and
fragrant melons.
FEBRUARY 2024 65
 M’HASHA
(Sweet-and-Sour
Stuffed Vegetables)
p. 72
 TEBIT
(Chicken Baked
in Rice)
p. 69

FEBRUARY 2024 67
KUBBA PATATA
(Lamb-Stuffed
Potato Patties)
KUBBA PATATA
(LAMB-STUFFED
POTATO PATTIES)
ACTIVE 55 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 55 MIN
MAKES 10 KUBBA
Kubba patata (fried potato patties) are a
satisfying snack. A filling of curry-spiced
lamb, pine nuts, and raisins makes these
bites especially rich and comforting.
POTATO DOUGH
4 medium-size (10-oz.) russet
potatoes (unpeeled)
1 large egg
2 Tbsp. potato starch (such as Bob’s
Red Mill)
11/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. black pepper
LAMB FILLING
11/2 tsp. olive oil
1/2 lb. ground lamb
2/3 cup finely chopped yellow onion
(about 1 small onion)
2 Tbsp. thinly sliced scallion (about 1
scallion)
1 Tbsp. curry powder
1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more to taste
1/2 tsp. black pepper
2 Tbsp. pine nuts
2 Tbsp. raisins
6 Tbsp. canola oil, divided
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
1. Make the potato dough: Bring a large
pot of water to a boil over high. Add pota-
toes, and cook until very tender and easily
pierced with a fork, about 35 minutes.
Transfer potatoes to a large bowl; let stand
until cool enough to handle, about 30 min-
utes. Peel potatoes; discard skins. Return
peeled potatoes to bowl, and mash using
a potato masher. Add egg, potato starch,
salt, and pepper; mash until combined.
Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
2. Make the lamb filling: Heat olive oil in a
large skillet over medium-high. Add lamb
and onion; cook, stirring and breaking up
lamb into small crumbles using a wooden
spoon, until browned, about 5 minutes.
Add scallion, curry powder, salt, and pep-
per; cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant,
1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir
in pine nuts and raisins. Set aside to let
cool slightly, about 10 minutes.
3. Scoop chilled potato dough into 10
tennis ball–size portions (about 31/2 ounces
each). Shape each portion into a ball using
your hands. Press your thumb or finger
into each potato ball to indent and create
a cup shape. Spoon about 2 tablespoons
lamb filling into each dough cup. Shape
dough around filling to create a sealed ball.
Flatten ball slightly to form a kubba about
1/2 inch thick and 4 inches wide.
4. Working in 3 batches, heat 2 table-
spoons canola oil in a large nonstick skillet
over medium. Add 3 to 4 kubba, and cook
until golden brown and crispy, flipping once
halfway through cooking time, 3 to 4 min-
utes total. Transfer to a platter, and season
with additional salt to taste. Sprinkle evenly
with parsley, and serve immediately.
—DORIS ZILKHA
MAKE AHEAD Potato dough can be
prepared up to 1 day in advance and
stored in an airtight container in
refrigerator.
WINE Elegant, floral Champagne: 2013
Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque
TEBIT (CHICKEN
BAKED IN RICE)
PHOTO P. 67
ACTIVE 1 HR 20 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 40 MIN,
PLUS 12 HR SOAKING; SERVES 4 TO 6
A whole chicken cooks in a bed of tomatoey,
tender, spiced rice in this one-pot Iraqi Jew-
ish dish. Tebit is often made for Shabbat,
the Jewish day of rest, because it can be
prepped and cooked the night before. To
serve, the pot is flipped over to release the
rice, which caramelizes on the bottom and
along the edges, creating a crunchy and
dramatic crust. Our testers had the most
success with a nonstick pot. A Dutch oven
can also be used, but it may be too heavy to
flip, and the rice may stick. If that happens,
simply remove the chicken, and spoon the
rice onto a large platter to serve.
31/2 cups uncooked long-grain rice (such
as Carolina Gold), soaked overnight
1 large (5-oz.) boneless, skinless
chicken thigh, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3/4 cup tomato paste, divided
1 Tbsp. baharat spice blend (such as
Burlap & Barrel) (see Note)
2 Tbsp. kosher salt, divided
1 tsp. black pepper, divided
1/4 tsp. ground cardamom
1 (4-lb.) whole chicken
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes,
drained
2/3 cup chopped yellow onion (about
1 small onion)
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 tsp. paprika
4 cups water
1 (8-oz.) can tomato sauce
1 chicken bouillon cube
1. Drain soaked rice in a colander, and rinse
well with cold water. Combine 2/3 cup rice,
chopped chicken thigh, 2 tablespoons
tomato paste, baharat, 2 teaspoons salt,
1/2teaspoon black pepper, and cardamom
in a medium bowl; stir until mixture is well
combined. Set remaining soaked rice aside
until ready to use.
2. Gently loosen the breast skin from the
whole chicken using your fingers. Stuff rice
mixture under breast skin (about 1/4 cup)
and into chicken cavity (about 3/4 cup).
Prick chicken skin using a fork or a sharp
paring knife. Set aside.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F with rack posi-
tioned in bottom third of oven. Heat 2
tablespoons oil in a large nonstick pot
or Dutch oven over medium-high. Add
diced tomatoes, chopped onion, cin-
namon, paprika, remaining 1/2 cup plus 2
tablespoons tomato paste, and remaining
1/2 teaspoon black pepper; cook, stirring
occasionally, until mixture is fragrant and
tomato paste darkens slightly, about 5
minutes. Remove from heat, and transfer
to a medium bowl. Wipe pot clean.
4. Coat bottom of pot with 1 tablespoon
oil. Fit a circle of parchment paper into
bottom of oiled pot, and drizzle paper
with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add
diced tomato mixture, 4 cups water,
tomato sauce, bouillon, and remaining
4 teaspoons salt; bring to a boil over high.
Add reserved soaked rice; reduce heat
to medium, and simmer, undisturbed, 20
minutes. Nestle chicken, breast side up,
into center of rice mixture. Spoon some of
the simmering liquid over chicken; cook
over medium, undisturbed, 10 minutes.
5. Cover pot with lid, and transfer to pre-
heated oven; roast until an instant-read
thermometer inserted in thickest portion
of breast registers 165°F, 1 hour and 20
minutes to 2 hours. Uncover pot; increase
oven temperature to 425°F, and roast until
chicken is browned in spots, about 10
minutes. Remove from oven, and let cool
20 minutes. To serve, carefully transfer
chicken to a plate, and set aside. Invert pot
onto a large round platter to release the
rice; remove and discard parchment paper.
Transfer chicken to the platter, nestling it
into the center of the rice. (Alternatively,
remove chicken from pot; set aside. Spoon
rice onto large platter, placing crispy rice
on top. Place chicken over rice, and serve.)
—DORIS ZILKHA
MAKE AHEAD Tebit can be prepared up to
1 day in advance. Store tebit, in pot
covered with lid, in refrigerator. Reheat at
350°F until heated through.
WINE Celebration-worthy red Bordeaux:
2019 Anseillan AOC Pauillac
NOTE Baharat, a Middle Eastern spice
blend, features a mix of warm and sweet
spices. In Iraqi blends, you’ll usually find a
more prominent cardamom presence,
along with coriander, allspice, and black
pepper. Find baharat at Middle Eastern
markets or at burlapandbarrel.com.
FEBRUARY 2024 69
 IRAQI BAKLAVA
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 1 HR 20 MIN
MAKES ABOUT 5 1/2 DOZEN
This recipe differs from Greek and Mediter-
ranean styles of baklava, where honey is
used to saturate the pastry. Iraqi baklava is
soaked and flavored instead with a home-
made light sugar syrup that’s subtly
flavored with rosewater and lemon juice
for a sweet, floral, and slightly tangy finish
to the nutty pastry. Recipe developer Doris
Zilkha makes this recipe using walnuts in
the filling, but pistachios or almonds work
well here, too. Make certain to keep the
phyllo covered with a damp towel as you
build the baklava—the thin, flour-based
dough quickly dries out and becomes
brittle when exposed to air.
21/4 cups finely chopped walnuts (about
15 oz.)
3. Brush a thin layer of melted butter onto
a baking sheet; place 1 phyllo sheet on bak-
ing sheet, and brush with butter. Top with
another phyllo sheet, and brush with butter.
Continue layering 6 more phyllo sheets,
brushing each layer with butter. Sprinkle
walnut mixture evenly over top sheet of
buttered phyllo. Place another phyllo sheet
over walnut mixture, and brush with butter.
Continue layering phyllo, brushing each
layer with butter, until all phyllo sheets are
used. (You will use about 16 sheets total.)
4. Using a sharp knife, cut lengthwise
through pastry to create 1-inch-wide strips;
cut 1-inch strips diagonally across pastry to
form about 70 elongated diamond shapes.
(Make clean cuts to avoid tearing.) Slowly
pour remaining melted butter over pastry.
5. Bake baklava in preheated oven until
browned and crispy, 35 to 40 minutes. Let
cool 5 minutes.

11/2 cups plus 3 Tbsp. granulated sugar,
divided
1 tsp. ground cardamom
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1 (16-oz.) pkg. frozen phyllo sheets
(such as Fillo Factory), thawed
1 cup unsalted butter (8 oz.), melted
3/4 cup water
2 tsp. rosewater
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Chopped pistachios (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Stir together wal-
nuts, 3 tablespoons sugar, cardamom, and
salt in a medium bowl. Set aside.
2. Unroll phyllo onto a clean work surface,
and place a damp paper towel over phyllo.
6. Meanwhile, stir together 3/4 cup water
and remaining 11/2 cups sugar in a small
saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium.
Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer,
stirring a few times, until sugar dissolves,
about 4 minutes. Remove from heat; let
cool 10 minutes. Stir in rosewater and
lemon juice, and let syrup cool completely,
about 20 minutes.
7. Slowly pour syrup over warm baklava,
making sure to also saturate corners and
edges. Garnish with pistachios, if desired.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
—DORIS ZILKHA
MAKE AHEAD Baklava is best enjoyed
fresh, so eat it the same day you make it.
Store any leftovers, well covered, at room
temperature up to 5 days.

ABOUT T H E DEVE LO PER

The recipes in this story are by chef Doris Sheena

Zilkha, who escaped from Baghdad in 1971. Her hus-
band, Aodi Zilkha, escaped in 1970, and the two were
married in 1977. Doris is a self-taught hobbyist chef
who spent years studying cookbooks and honing
traditional Iraqi Jewish recipes. Nearly 40 years ago,
after running a coffee-cart business in New York City
offices, Aodi founded Galleria Custom Caterers, later
Beth Torah Caterers. Beth Torah became the premier
source for international Jewish cuisine in the greater
New York area, specializing in authentic Iraqi Jewish
food—I grew up eating Doris and Aodi’s dishes at my
own family gatherings and remembered their flavors
ILLUSTRATION: CHANTAL BENNETT

for years. Aodi retired in 2020, but he and Doris

continue to preserve Iraqi Jewish heritage by sharing
their food with the community and beyond. These
days, Doris is a real estate agent. If you are lucky
enough to know and work with her, you’ll be tasting
her delicious dishes in no time. —L.S.

FEBRUARY 2024 71
 M’HASHA (SWEET-
AND-SOUR STUFFED
VEGETABLES)
PHOTO P. 66
ACTIVE 1 HR 30 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 50 MIN
SERVES 8
Vegetables stuffed with herbed rice are
tucked into a Dutch oven and baked in a
tangy tomato-tamarind sauce. This dish
takes time to put together, but nothing is
difficult to do, and several components lend
themselves to advance prep: You can sepa-
rate the onion layers and scoop out the veg-
etables’ centers ahead of time; they’ll keep
well in the refrigerator for up to a day.
VEGETABLES
2 medium-size yellow onions
(unpeeled)
2 medium-size red beets, peeled
3 medium zucchini
2 medium-size red bell peppers
18 drained jarred whole grape leaves
(such as Krinos), divided
RICE FILLING
1 cup uncooked long-grain rice (such
as Carolina Gold), soaked overnight
3 medium scallions, thinly sliced
(about 2/3 cup)
1/2 cup finely chopped celery (about 2
medium stalks)
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
1/4 cup slivered almonds, roughly
chopped or crushed
1/4 cup water
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh dill
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. tomato paste
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. granulated sugar
M’HASHA SAUCE
2 Tbsp. olive oil
1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes,
drained
1/4 cup finely chopped celery (about 1
medium stalk)
1/4 cup finely chopped yellow onion
21/2 cups water
1 (8-oz.) can tomato sauce
3 Tbsp. tamarind concentrate (such as
Sambar Kitchen) (see Note)
1 Tbsp. ketchup
1. Make the vegetables: Bring a large pot
of water to a boil over high. Score each
onion (with skins on), cutting lengthwise
from the root toward the tip just to the cen-
ter of the onion, leaving the top half of the
72 FEBRUARY 2024
onion intact. Add onions to boiling water,
and cook, undisturbed, until softened,
about 15 minutes. Transfer to a large plate,
and let stand until cool enough to handle,
about 30 minutes. Remove and discard
onion skins. Separate onions into layers,
keeping each layer as whole as possible
(about 10 layers total); set aside on a bak-
ing sheet. Discard root end and smallest
layers of onions.
2. Cut off tops of beets, zucchini, and bell
peppers. Set beet and bell pepper tops
aside; discard zucchini tops and bell pep-
per seeds and pith. Cut each zucchini
crosswise into 3-inch-long pieces.
3. Hollow centers of each beet and zucchini
piece using a paring knife or melon baller.
(Leave a 1/2-inch-thick wall and base on
beets and a 1/2-inch-thick wall and 11/2-inch-
thick base on zucchini.) Chop zucchini and
beet flesh, and reserve for rice filling.
4. Make the rice filling: Drain rice, and
rinse briefly under cold water; transfer to
a large bowl. Add scallions, celery, parsley,
almonds, 1/4 cup water, dill, mint, olive oil,
tomato paste, salt, black pepper, lemon
juice, and sugar. Stir in reserved chopped
beets and zucchini until mixture is well
combined. Set aside.
5. Fill hollowed vegetables with rice filling
(1 to 2 tablespoons for each zucchini piece,
1 tablespoon for each beet, and about
1/2 cup for each bell pepper). Cover beets
and peppers with reserved tops. Spoon
about 1 heaping tablespoon filling onto
each reserved onion layer; roll tightly.
Spoon about 1 tablespoon rice mixture in
center of each of 10 grape leaves; fold over
sides, and roll tightly. Set vegetables aside.
6. Make the m’hasha sauce: Preheat oven
to 375°F. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over
medium. Add tomatoes, celery, and onion;
cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables
soften and begin to brown, 8 to 10 minutes.
Remove from heat; lay remaining 8 grape
leaves over sauce. Tightly pack stuffed veg-
etables into pot, placing over grape leaves.
7. Stir together 21/2 cups water, tomato
sauce, tamarind concentrate, and ketchup
in a medium bowl; pour over vegetables.
Place a heatproof plate or a nonreactive
pot lid (at least 2 inches smaller in diam-
eter than the Dutch oven) directly onto
surface of vegetables and sauce. Press
plate to slightly submerge vegetables in
sauce. Return Dutch oven to heat over
medium, and cook, undisturbed, 40 min-
utes. Transfer Dutch oven to preheated
oven, and cook until vegetables are tender,
rice is cooked, and sauce is thickened and
reduced, about 1 hour.
8. Transfer stuffed vegetables to a large
platter. (Discard remaining solids in pot.)
Serve vegetables warm or at room tem-
perature. —DORIS ZILKHA
MAKE AHEAD M’hasha can be made ahead
and stored in a freezer-safe container in
freezer up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in
refrigerator. Reheat in a 350°F oven until
warmed through. Onions can be boiled,
separated into layers, and stored in an
airtight container in refrigerator up to 1 day
in advance. Vegetables can be hollowed
out and stored in an airtight container in
refrigerator up to 1 day in advance.
WINE Rich, fragrant, bright white: 2017
Trimbach Reserve Pinot Gris
NOTE Tamarind concentrate is available
on amazon.com, at Asian grocery stores,
and at many international markets.
BAMIA (OKRA STEWED
IN TOMATO SAUCE)
TOTAL 35 MIN; SERVES 4
Bamia means “okra” in Arabic, and in this
side dish, the vegetable is stewed in a savory
tomato sauce. The variety of okra indig-
enous to Iraq is petite compared to most
grown commercially in the U.S., so to make
this dish, look for tiny frozen okra pods at
Middle Eastern markets; they hold their
shape well and release very little liquid. You
can make this dish using fresh okra—just
be sure to select the smallest pods.
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
(about 1 medium onion)
1/2 cup finely chopped celery (about 2
medium stalks)
1 (15-oz.) can tomato sauce
1 (14-oz.) pkg. frozen whole okra (such
as Montana) (see Note)
11/2 cups water
1 Tbsp. thinly sliced garlic (about 2
medium garlic cloves)
2 tsp. kosher salt
3/4 tsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/4 cup fresh mint leaves, plus more for
garnish
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
21/2 tsp. granulated sugar
Heat oil in a large, high-sided skillet over
medium. Add onion and celery, and cook,
stirring often, until softened, about 8 min-
utes. Add tomato sauce, okra, 11/2 cups
water, garlic, salt, turmeric, and pepper;
bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to
medium-low; simmer, stirring occasionally,
until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes.
Remove from heat; stir in mint leaves,
lemon juice, and sugar. Serve immediately,
garnished with additional mint leaves.
—DORIS ZILKHA
NOTE Find Montana frozen okra at
Middle Eastern markets or online at
selectfoodsmarket.com.
 BAMIA
(Okra Stewed in
Tomato Sauce)
THE ENDURING APPEAL OF THE DUTCH OVEN—
THE ONE POT TO RULE THEM ALL
 BY Andee Gosnell
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Victor Protasio
 AS I PREPARED FOR MY WEDDING LAST YEAR, I asked
recently married friends what products were essential
for our registry. Their recommendations ranged widely,
from glassware for entertaining to robotic vacuums, but
they all agreed on one thing: A Dutch oven absolutely
had to make my wish list.
Beautiful, colorful, and collectible, Dutch ovens are
deeply revered and beloved by American home cooks. Yet
unlike other trendy kitchen gadgets that have similarly
ardent followings, like the Instant Pot or air fryer, the
Dutch oven is not exactly new. The basic design dates
back to at least the 17th century, when deep, high-sided
pots were common household items for baking and roast-
ing in the Netherlands. In the early 1700s, Englishman
Abraham Darby, who was looking for a way to break up
the market monopoly of Dutch brass cookware, brought
the techniques used by Dutch foundries back to England
and set out to make a pot from a more affordable mate-
rial. After much trial and error, in 1708, he patented a
process using cast iron, and so-called Dutch ovens made
from the durable and cost-efficient material exploded in
popularity. By the mid-1700s, they were being shipped
to British colonies in the Americas.
Centuries into its reign, the Dutch oven is still going
strong. Today’s iterations of the pot, which come in every
color of the rainbow and a wide range of price points (see
“The Best Dutch Ovens,” p. 78), remain true to the basic
historical design, with high-sided walls and a heavy lid.
That design is key to its versatility. The walls and bottom of
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

the pot conduct heat quickly and evenly, making it easy to

achieve a perfect sear on a chicken for One-Pot Lemongrass
Chicken and Rice (recipe p. 84), hold dishes like Lamb
Korma (recipe p. 83) at a steady, low-and-slow simmer, and
even deep-fry. It can move seamlessly from stovetop to oven
to table, and the lid seals in heat and moisture, creating an
ideal cooking environment for everything from pot roasts
the lid seals
(yielding fall-apart-tender meat and tender vegetables, in heat and
like the Pot-Roasted Beets on p. 79) to baked goods (giving
bread a crisp crust and a chewy crumb) to braises (like the
moisture,
Michelada Braised Clams, opposite). creating
I’m glad I listened to my friends; my kitchen is now
home to a lilac-colored Staub Dutch oven. From week-
an ideal
night basics to weekend projects, I find myself reaching cooking
for it over and over again. Plus, it looks damn good sit-
ting on my stovetop, yet another reason for the enduring
environment
appeal of the most versatile pot in the world. for braises.
76 FEBRUARY 2024
michelada
braised clams
TOTAL 25 MIN; SERVES 4

The colors, flavors, and ingredients of

a michelada, a popular Mexican cock-
tail made with tomato juice and beer,
become a gorgeous red broth for braising
littleneck clams. Beneath a Dutch oven’s
tight lid, the clams cook quickly in the
steamy environment, bringing this dish
from the stovetop to the table in less than
30 minutes.

1/2 cup thinly sliced white onion

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, divided
1/2 tsp. Tajín seasoning (see Note)
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
6 oz. fresh Mexican chorizo, casings
removed
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 1/2 tsp. chopped fresh oregano
1 tsp. grated garlic
1 (14.5-oz.) can diced tomatoes,
drained
2/3 cup pilsner-style lager (such as
Modelo Especial)
2 Tbsp. hot sauce
3 dozen littleneck clams, scrubbed
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Stir together onion, 11/2 tablespoons

lime juice, and Tajín seasoning in a small
bowl. Let stand, stirring occasionally,
until ready to use.
2. Heat oil in a large Dutch oven over
medium-high. Add chorizo, and cook,
stirring to break meat into small pieces,
until beginning to brown and fat is ren-
dered, about 6 minutes. Add tomato
paste, oregano, and garlic; cook, stir-
ring constantly, until fragrant, about 30
seconds. Add tomatoes, lager, and hot
sauce. Bring mixture to a simmer over
medium-high.
3. Add clams to Dutch oven. Cover and
cook over medium-high, shaking pot
occasionally, until clams open, about 8
minutes. Remove from heat; evenly divide
clams among 4 serving bowls. (Discard
any unopened clams.) Stir remaining
1/2 tablespoon lime juice into braising

mixture in Dutch oven. Ladle evenly over

servings. Drain reserved onion mixture;
stir in cilantro. Scatter onion mixture
evenly over servings. —LIZ MERVOSH
BEER Cold Mexican lager: Modelo
Especial
NOTE Tajín seasoning is a Mexican spice
blend that includes dried chiles and
lime. Find it at Mexican grocery stores
or online at amazon.com.

FEBRUARY 2024 77
 the best
Dutch ovens BY JENNIFER ZYMAN

We put Dutch ovens through their paces by executing

cooking tests with dry and wet ingredients and durabil-
ity tests to simulate regular household use. We made a
chicken and rice dish to evaluate how the thighs browned,
if they were crowded, if they stuck to the pan, and the over-
all results of the dish. We also beat up the Dutch ovens with
a metal spoon more than 25 times on the inside and out-
side to see if they scratched, dented, or got marked up. In
other words, we did the heavy lifting, so all you have to do
is choose your favorite from our list.

BEST OVERALL
We found the Staub 5.5-Quart Round Dutch Oven easy
to use and large enough to handle any task. The brand’s
pieces are so well constructed that we barely saw a
scratch on the exterior glaze during our durability test.
($380, surlatable.com)

BEST VALUE BEST SPLURGE

After blind testing, we
expected the Cuisinart
Chef’s Classic 5-Quart
Enameled Cast-Iron
Casserole to be more ex-
pensive given the quality
of its construction. There
was only slight chipping
during durability tests,
and it cooks rice brilliantly.
This Dutch oven is well
constructed, built to last,
and beautiful, making it
an excellent choice for a
gift or for a starter kitchen.
($76, wayfair.com)
The 7.25-Quart Le
Creuset Signature Round
Dutch Oven is valued
worldwide. Le Creuset
is an aspirational brand
for home cooking due to
its heirloom quality and
variety of colors, shapes,
and sizes. We loved how
easy it is to clean and
that it is dishwasher-safe.
One tester noted, “If I
could only recommend
one piece of cookware,
it would be this.” ($460,
surlatable.com)
ILLUSTRATION: CHANTAL BENNETT

Every product branded with the Food & Wine Faves

logo has received the highest marks from the profes-
sional cooks in the Food & Wine Test Lab. Find more
of our favorite tested and recommended products at
foodandwine.com.

78 FEBRUARY 2024
pot-roasted
beets
ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 35 MIN
SERVES 4 TO 6

Dry-roasting beets in a Dutch oven intensi-

fies their flavor for this hearty salad. Served
with crisp, fresh apples and a salty-sweet
nut crumble, the beets’ concentrated
earthiness is balanced by bright flavors and
crunchy textures. A tangy crème fraîche
and horseradish spread unites it all.

21/2 lb. beets, root ends trimmed

1 Tbsp. salted butter
1/2 cup chopped roasted mixed nuts
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more
to taste
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
1 cup apple juice
2 Tbsp. olive oil
2 tsp. Champagne vinegar
1/2 cup thinly sliced unpeeled crisp
apple (such as Honeycrisp)
1/2 cup crème fraîche
2 Tbsp. prepared horseradish

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Line bottom of

a large Dutch oven with parchment paper;
add beets. Tightly cover pot with aluminum
foil, and top with lid. Roast in preheated
oven until beets are easily pierced with a
paring knife, 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2
hours. Uncover pot, and let cool about 15
minutes. Peel beets; discard skins. Cut
beets into small wedges; set aside.
2. While beets roast, melt butter in a skillet
over medium. Add nuts, sugar, and 1/4 tea-
spoon salt; cook, stirring constantly, 2 min-
utes. Add thyme; cook, stirring constantly,
until nuts are lightly browned, about 1 min-
ute. Transfer to a plate; let cool 10 minutes.
Crumble mixture with your hands; set aside.
3. Clean and dry skillet. Add apple juice;
bring to a boil over medium-high. Cook,
undisturbed, until reduced to about 3
tablespoons, 12 to 14 minutes. Pour into a
large bowl; let cool 5 minutes. Whisk in oil,
vinegar, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt.
Add beet wedges and apple slices; toss to
coat. Season with additional salt to taste.
4. Stir together crème fraîche and horse-
radish in a small bowl; spread on a large
platter. Top with beets and apples. Drizzle
with remaining dressing, and top with nut
mixture. Serve immediately. —LIZ MERVOSH
MAKE AHEAD Cooked beets can be stored
in an airtight container in refrigerator up
to 4 days.
WINE Citrus-driven, minerally white: 2018
Smith-Madrone Riesling

FEBRUARY 2024 79
 3. Pour oxtail mixture through a fine wire-
Oxtail mesh strainer into a large heatproof bowl.

Noodle Soup Set bowl aside; reserve Dutch oven. Trans-

ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 10 MIN
SERVES 6
Excellent heat retainers, Dutch ovens work
wonders for long-simmered dishes, as this
cozy oxtail soup demonstrates. This soup
is inspired by kare-kare, a Filipino peanut-
and-oxtail stew thickened with ground rice;
this riff calls for chewy fresh wheat noodles,
which also help thicken the creamy, peanut-
buttery broth, but you can use whatever
noodles you prefer. Make sure to maintain
a very low heat while simmering the soup;
since the Dutch oven is covered, the sim-
mer might otherwise increase to a boil.
31/2 lb. oxtails, cut into 2-inch-thick
pieces, patted dry and excess fat
trimmed
21/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/4 cup canola oil, divided
1 large yellow onion, chopped
10 large garlic cloves, peeled and
smashed
1 Tbsp. chopped drained anchovy
fillets (about 6 fillets)
9 cups water
3 Tbsp. granulated sugar, divided
1/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp. natural peanut
butter, well stirred
1/4 cup fish sauce
2 Tbsp. annatto oil or vegetable oil
(see Note)
16 oz. fresh wheat noodles, such as
Lanzhou or udon noodles (see Note),
or fresh fettuccine
12 oz. baby bok choy (about 12),
trimmed and halved lengthwise
1 small daikon radish, peeled and
thinly sliced into half-moons
1. Sprinkle oxtails with 11/2
teaspoons salt
fer oxtails to a second large bowl; discard
COO K
remaining solids. Let oxtails cool 15 minutes.
Shred and set meat aside; discard bones.
THE
C OV E R
4. While oxtails cool, skim fat from surface
of strained cooking liquid. Pour liquid into
Dutch oven, and bring to a boil over high.
Add peanut butter, fish sauce, annatto oil,
and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar. Trans-
fer mixture to a blender; process mixture
until it reaches a creamy consistency, about
20 seconds. (Alternatively, blend mixture in
pot using an immersion blender.)
5. Return blended broth to Dutch oven
over medium-high. Add noodles, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until noodles are just
tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat.
Stir in bok choy, daikon, and reserved oxtail
meat. Cover and let vegetables cook in hot
broth until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes.
Serve hot. —LIZ MERVOSH
MAKE AHEAD Strained cooking liquid can
be stored in an airtight container in
refrigerator up to 4 days. Skim off any fat
before using. Shredded oxtails can be
stored with some of the strained cooking
liquid in an airtight container in
refrigerator up to 4 days.
WINE Bright-berry sparkling rosé: NV Lini
910 Labrusca
NOTE Annatto oil, or achiote oil, is earthy
and sweet from annatto seeds, which also
contribute a vibrant red color. Find it at
most Asian or Mexican grocery stores or
online at seabrafoods.com. Find fresh
Lanzhou or udon noodles at most Asian
markets or online at sayweee.com.
much like
a stockpot,
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY

and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons canola oil

in a large Dutch oven over medium-high.
Working in 2 batches, add oxtails; cook
a dutch
until browned, about 10 minutes per batch. oven
Transfer to a large plate. Discard drippings;
rinse Dutch oven, and wipe clean.
works
2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons canola wonders
oil in Dutch oven. Add onion; cook, stir-
ring often, until slightly softened, about 4
for a soup
minutes. Add garlic and anchovies; cook,
stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1
because
minute. Return oxtails to Dutch oven, and of its heat
add 9 cups water, 1 tablespoon sugar, and
remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a sim-
retention.
mer over high. Reduce heat to very low;
cover and simmer until oxtails are tender,
about 2 hours.

80 FEBRUARY 2024

lamb korma
ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 35 MIN, PLUS
12 HR MARINATING; SERVES 4 TO 6
Slow cooking is all about heat control,
and a Dutch oven’s material, especially
enameled cast iron, evenly distributes
heat, making it an ideal vessel for low-
and-slow-cooked dishes like korma,
curries, and stews. In this recipe, lamb
shoulder marinates in yogurt spiced
with garam masala, coriander, and chile
powder and then slowly simmers until
it’s fall-apart tender. Serve this aromatic
stew with rice and naan for a hearty and
satisfying meal.
3/4 cup raw cashews
21/4 cups water, divided
2 lb. boneless lamb shoulder, cut
into 1-inch pieces
3/4 cup plain whole-milk yogurt
2 tsp. garam masala (such as
Marhaba)
2 tsp. ground coriander
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. Kashmiri chile powder
5 Tbsp. ghee, divided
2 yellow onions, thinly sliced
5 large garlic cloves, peeled and
smashed
1 small piece fresh ginger, peeled
and chopped
6 whole green cardamom pods (see
Note)
3 whole cloves
2 fresh or dried bay leaves
1 cinnamon stick
1 whole black cardamom pod (see
Note)
Chopped fresh cilantro, for
garnish
Cooked basmati rice and naan, for
serving
Beautiful, colorful, and
collectible, Dutch ovens are
deeply beloved by American
home cooks.
1. Combine cashews and 11/4 cups water in
a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least
12 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Combine lamb, yogurt, garam masala,
coriander, 1 teaspoon salt, turmeric, and
chile powder in a large bowl; toss until lamb
is coated. Cover and refrigerate at least 12
hours or up to 24 hours.
3. Melt 3 tablespoons ghee in a large Dutch
oven over medium-high. Add onions; cook,
stirring occasionally, until deeply browned,
20 to 25 minutes. Transfer onions to a
blender; add cashews and soaking liquid,
garlic, and ginger. Process until smooth,
about 45 seconds. Clean Dutch oven, and
wipe dry.
4. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons ghee in
Dutch oven over medium-high. Add green
cardamom pods, cloves, bay leaves, cinna-
mon stick, and black cardamom pod. Cook,
stirring constantly, until sizzling and fra-
grant, about 30 seconds. Add lamb-yogurt
mixture, pureed cashew mixture, remain-
ing 1 cup water, and remaining 1 teaspoon
salt; stir until combined. Bring to a simmer
over medium. Cover Dutch oven, and
reduce heat to very low. Simmer, covered,
stirring and scraping bottom of Dutch oven
occasionally to prevent sticking, until lamb
is very tender, 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2
hours. (Watch and adjust heat to maintain
a simmer; in the covered Dutch oven, the
soup might begin to boil.) Remove from
heat, and let stand 15 minutes before serv-
ing. Garnish servings with cilantro; serve
with rice and naan. —LIZ MERVOSH
MAKE AHEAD Lamb can marinate in an
airtight container in refrigerator up to
24 hours.
WINE Full-bodied Alsace Gewürztraminer:
2019 Famille Hugel Estate
NOTE Green cardamom pods have a
sweet, herbal flavor, while black
cardamom imparts a smoky, minty taste.
Find green and black cardamom pods at
Indian grocery stores or online at
thespiceway.com.
FEBRUARY 2024 83

One-Pot
Lemongrass
Chicken
and Rice
ACTIVE 50 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 15 MIN, PLUS 12
HR CHILLING; SERVES 8
The flavors of Vietnamese lemongrass
chicken inspired this easy one-pot dinner
from F&W recipe developer Liz Mervosh.
Mervosh’s secret to juicy chicken begins
with rubbing an aromatic lemongrass
paste under the skin to marinate overnight
and flavor the meat. The bird roasts in the
Dutch oven with coconut water and chicken
stock to keep it moist before adding rice
that soaks up the schmaltzy, drippings-
infused sauce.
1/4 cup chopped lemongrass (white
parts only, dark green parts reserved
for trussing) (about 2 stalks)
3 Tbsp. fish sauce
3 Tbsp. light brown sugar
3 Tbsp. unrefined coconut oil, divided
(see Note)
4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1 (4-lb.) chicken, patted dry, excess
skin around neck and cavity
trimmed
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
11/2 cups plus 1/3 cup coconut water,
divided
11/4 cups uncooked jasmine rice
1/3 cup unsweetened toasted coconut
flakes, plus more for garnish
Thinly sliced scallions and sliced red
Fresno chiles, for garnish
1. Combine lemongrass, fish sauce, brown
sugar, 2 tablespoons coconut oil, garlic,
and black pepper in a blender; process
until smooth, about 30 seconds. (Marinade
will be loose and not emulsified.)
2. Tuck chicken wing tips behind shoulders.
Run your fingers under chicken breast and
thigh skin to loosen; lift skin, and spoon
lemongrass mixture under skin, spread-
ing evenly. Transfer chicken to a wire rack
placed inside a rimmed baking sheet,
and loosely cover with plastic wrap. Chill
chicken in refrigerator at least 12 hours or
up to 24 hours.
3. Preheat oven to 375°F. Sprinkle chicken
with 1/2 teaspoon salt. Tie legs using the
reserved dark green part of lemongrass
or a piece of kitchen twine. Melt remaining
1 tablespoon coconut oil in a large Dutch
oven over medium. Place chicken, breast
84 FEBRUARY 2024
side down, in Dutch oven. Cook until
deeply browned in spots, about 6 min-
utes. Using tongs, flip chicken breast side
up. Pour 11/2 cups coconut water around
chicken, and bring to a simmer over high.
Cover and transfer to preheated oven;
roast until chicken is cooked through,
about 40 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, rinse jasmine rice with
cold water, gently stirring rice with your
fingers, until water runs clear, about 1
minute; set aside.
5. Uncover Dutch oven. Stir coconut flakes,
remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining
1/3 cup coconut water into mixture around
chicken. Spoon rice evenly around edge
of Dutch oven, making sure rice doesn’t
stick to chicken. Gently shake Dutch oven
to redistribute rice. Cover and return to
oven. Bake at 375°F until rice is tender
and most of the liquid is absorbed, about
15 minutes.
6. Remove from oven, and let stand 10
minutes. Fluff rice around chicken with
a fork. Garnish with additional coconut
flakes, scallions, and chiles. Transfer
chicken to a cutting board, and cut into
pieces. Serve with rice. —LIZ MERVOSH
MAKE AHEAD Chicken can marinate,
covered with plastic wrap, in refrigerator
up to 1 day.
WINE Racy, stone fruit–scented white:
2021 Hermann J. Wiemer HJW Vineyard
NOTE Unrefined coconut oil, sometimes
called virgin coconut oil, is more fragrant
and coconut-forward with a lower smoke
point than refined coconut oil. Find
unrefined coconut oil at grocery stores or
online at navafresh.com.
The walls
and
FOOD STYLING: MARGARET MONROE DICKEY; PROP STYLING: CHRISTINE KEELY
bottom of
the pot
conduct
heat quickly
and evenly,
making it
easy to
achieve a
perfect sear.
A brunch of buckwheat crêpes,
salmon crudo, turnips, kale
salad, cake, and cocktails at
Flamingo Estate, the home
and lifestyle brand of Richard
Christiansen (opposite, at right)
and his partner, Aaron Harvey
(opposite, at left). Recipes start
on p. 93.
 IT’S ALWAYS
SUNNY AT
FLAMINGO
ESTATE

PART LUXURY
BRAND, PART
PRIVATE HOME,
THIS LOS ANGELES
ESTATE IS ONE
HUNDRED PERCENT
DESIGNED WITH
HOSTING IN MIND. By KHUSHBU SHAH Photography by HUGH DAVISON

FEBRUARY 2024 87
 N MANY WAYS, Flamingo Estate is Richard Christiansen’s
adult rebellion against his childhood spent on a farm in
rural Australia. “We never once had a party when I was
a kid,” he says. “Not once. We never entertained. And so
I used to watch Dynasty and Hart to Hart and dream
of these big parties.” It’s why, when Christiansen and
his partner, Aaron Harvey, do any hosting at Flamingo
Estate—the opulent and somewhat mysterious Spanish-style
dwelling that is also the genesis of Christiansen’s luxury lifestyle
brand of the same name—they deeply commit. “When we have
a party, there’s always crystal glasses. No one’s drinking out of
plastic. There’s always linen napkins,” says Christiansen.
“Whatever the scale, it’s the idea of really going there,” says
Harvey, who is also the creative director of the brand. It doesn’t
matter if it is a gigantic party or a leisurely weekend brunch
with a handful of friends, like today, spent eating and lounging
at the long dining table that lives on the house’s sun-dappled
terrace. Although it is a casual affair—at least, compared to past
galas, which have featured synchronized swimmers in the pool
and a gala with a 50-piece orchestra on-site—the menu of ten-
der Buckwheat Crêpes with Caramelized Onions (recipe p.
93), dashi-and-yuzu-glazed turnips (p. 94), and a citrusy cake
topped with candied kumquats (p. 97) is anything but pedestri-
an. The tablescape, starring robust bunches of marigolds, a pile
88 FEBRUARY 2024
of precariously stacked melons, and vivid kumquats scattered
just so among the crystal glassware and aesthetically pleasing
plates in various shades of green, is enough to make me want
to take an immediate vow to level up my entertaining skills.
Hosting is Christiansen’s “love language,” says Harvey. He
is enamored with the effort it takes to lay out a table, vacuum
the floor, and light copious candles—the ceremony of it all. “It
shows not only love, but respect,” says Harvey. “It’s about be-
ing prepared for someone to come over and showing them
that you care.”
It’s easy to get caught up in the abundance and the lore of
Flamingo Estate. The property takes its name from a modestly
sized one-bedroom house with a faded pink exterior that’s
STYLING BY STEPHANIE STAMATIS
perched proudly above 75 brick stairs carved into what feels
like Los Angeles’ steepest hill (just ask my calf muscles). It’s a
space—and company—dedicated to the idea of “radical pleasure.”
Flamingo Estate unapologetically (and convincingly) sells $80
containers of dried strawberries dusted in guajillo chile and
$250 jars of honey from LeBron James’ garden. The goats that
live on the lush seven-acre property make headlines for wearing
 clockwise from left: Kale Salad
with Halloumi Croutons
(recipe p. 94); cocker spaniels
Daylesford and Freeway in the
sun-dappled living room; Kat
Turner, chef-partner at Highly
Likely in Los Angeles, frequently
cooks for Flamingo Estate.

cashmere when it’s chilly. And then there is the ribald origin
story of the building itself: Christiansen acquired the property
from the former owner on the condition he would buy it sight
unseen, and he quickly realized upon purchase that the house
had formerly been a porn studio.
High-end berries and pampered livestock aside, Flamingo
Estate really is a wonderland for design and botanical enthusiasts
alike. There’s a giant screen in the living room made by legend-
ary painter David Hockney, and stunning tiles, textiles, and pots
sourced from Paris and Morocco dot the property. Flamingo
Estate is also home to more than 350 plant varietals, including
plumeria cacti Christiansen found on Craigslist and rare cycads
that he received as a gift from someone he befriended in Ana-
heim, which he energetically rushes off to show me like a proud
father. But while each detail, down to the bamboo-handled
flatware in the kitchen (sourced from Lorenzi Milano in Milan),
is the result of thoughtful decision-making, to think of the
house as an altar to aesthetics would be to miss the real inten-
tion of the space. Rather, the house and grounds are designed
to support Christiansen and Harvey’s approach to hospitality.
 “ I FEEL LIKE,
AT ITS CORE,
HOSPITALITY
“It was 100% engineered for entertaining,” says Christiansen.
IS ALSO
In his former life as the head of an advertising agency, Chris- DREAMING,
tiansen often found himself at parties where he was trapped AND SO I LOVE
in one spot and forced to make small talk. When designing the LETTING PEOPLE
house, he built a set of zones that encourage constant movement GO ON THAT
and the exploration of various “little nooks,” he says. “The little JOURNEY.”
bar, the living room, down to the little bathhouse, down to the
little office. It was this idea of Alice having to go down the rab-
bit hole.” When guests are over, Christiansen and Harvey make
sure there are drinks and food at every stop. “I feel like, at its
core, hospitality is also dreaming, and so I love letting people
go on that journey.”
And while the house and the business are inextricably inter-
twined, guests don’t feel like they are living in forced brand
moments. Flamingo Estate, the business, happens to work with
nearly 120 farms to create their products, so naturally, Flamingo
Estate, the home, sources its produce, honeys, wines, vinegars,
and floral arrangements from these farms, too. This also extends
to working with a network of chefs, like Kat Turner, the chef-
partner at beloved L.A. restaurant Highly Likely, who prepared
today’s meal—seeing as neither Christiansen nor Harvey is really
a cook, they both admit with a laugh.
Above all, they want their guests to feel just as at home in
the space as they do. “I grew up as a guest,” says Harvey. “It
was never people coming to our house. It was always me going
somewhere else. And there was a palpable feeling when some-
one truly welcomed you.” It’s why they take such a maximalist
approach to hosting, laying out the most beautiful plates even
for a casual brunch. “I think hospitality is about making people
feel warm and loved,” says Christiansen. “Which today, when
everyone’s living behind a screen, has so much to do with the
senses. It is the smell, it is the texture, it is the feel of everything.”
“We want it to be really special for people,” adds Harvey.
“A dreamland.”

90 FEBRUARY 2024
Dried flowers dangle from
the ceiling in the Apoth-
ecary, where chickens
roam. opposite, from left:
Flowers in the estate’s
kitchen; Turner assembles
Yuzu and Lemon Cake
with Buttercream Frosting
(recipe p. 97); Citrus And
Galliano Gin Fizz (p. 97).
Buckwheat Crêpes with
Caramelized Onions
 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Cover and 5. Assemble the crêpes: Working with
Buckwheat Crêpes keep warm. 1 crêpe at a time, spread 2 heaping table-
with Caramelized 3. Cook the crêpes: Heat a 12-inch non-
spoons miso-caramelized onions along
center of crêpe. Top onions with 11/2 table-
Onions stick skillet over medium-high. Stir crêpe
batter. (It should be the consistency of spoons crème fraîche and 1 egg. Sprinkle
ACTIVE 1 HR 40 MIN; TOTAL 2 HR 40 MIN half-and-half. If necessary, stir in additional with 1/2 teaspoon furikake. Fold right side of
SERVES 8 milk to thin batter.) Lightly grease skillet crêpe over filling at an angle; fold left side
with butter, and add 1/4 cup crêpe batter. over top, forming a triangle with a point at
Folded around crème fraîche, fried eggs, Quickly swirl skillet to evenly coat bottom. the bottom and egg peeking through top.
and caramelized onions enhanced with Cook until sides of crêpe release from skillet Transfer crêpe to a serving plate. Repeat
white miso and spicy, fruity gochugaru, and bottom is lightly golden, about 1 minute process with remaining crêpes, onions,
these lacy crêpes get a hint of nuttiness and 30 seconds. Flip crêpe, and cook until crème fraîche, eggs, and furikake. Serve
from buckwheat flour. Plan ahead to give lightly browned, about 1 minute. Transfer immediately. —KAT TURNER, LOS ANGELES
the crêpe batter time to rest in the fridge— crêpe to a plate. Repeat process with MAKE AHEAD Crêpe batter can be stored
this step allows the flour to fully hydrate, remaining batter to yield 10 crêpes (see in an airtight container in refrigerator up
giving the crêpes a delicate, tender texture. Note), buttering skillet between batches. to 24 hours. Miso-caramelized onions can
Keep crêpes covered with a clean kitchen be stored in an airtight container in the
CRÊPE BATTER towel to keep warm. Wipe skillet clean.
refrigerator up to 3 days; warm onions over
1 cup whole milk, plus more as needed 4. Make the fried eggs: Add 2 tablespoons low, stirring occasionally, before
3/4 cup buckwheat flour (about 3 1/4 oz.) butter to cleaned skillet, and heat over assembling crêpes.
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (about 2 1/8 oz.) medium-high until foamy. Crack 4 eggs
WINE Crisp, Loire-style white: 2022 Lang
into skillet, spacing apart evenly. Sprinkle
1/2 cup water & Reed Chenin Blanc
eggs evenly with 1/4 teaspoon salt. Cook
2 large eggs until whites are set with golden edges and NOTE Find gochugaru and furikake at
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus yolks are runny, 2 to 3 minutes, basting Asian markets or online at bokksumarket
more for skillet tops of whites occasionally with butter. .com. There’s enough batter to make 10
1 tsp. kosher salt Transfer to a plate. Repeat process with crêpes, leaving a little room for error. Pick
remaining 2 tablespoons butter, remaining the best 8 crêpes to assemble, and enjoy
MISO-CARAMELIZED ONIONS
4 eggs, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt. the remaining 2 as a snack.
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 large sweet onions, thinly sliced
(about 10 cups)
1/3 cup (22/3 oz.) Shaoxing wine or sake
1 Tbsp. white miso
1 1/2 tsp. gochugaru or crushed red
pepper (see Note)
FRIED EGGS
1/4 cup unsalted butter (2 oz.), divided
8 large eggs
1/2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
3/4 cup crème fraîche, divided
4 tsp. furikake, divided (see Note)

1. Make the crêpe batter: Combine milk,

buckwheat flour, all-purpose flour, 1/2 cup
water, eggs, butter, and salt in a blender,
and process until smooth, 20 to 30 sec-
onds, stopping to scrape down sides as
needed. Cover and chill at least 2 hours or
up to 24 hours.
2. Make the miso-caramelized onions:
Heat butter and oil in a large skillet over
medium-high until butter is melted and
beginning to foam, 1 to 2 minutes. Add
onions, and cook, stirring occasionally,
until onions begin to soften, 8 to 10 min-
utes. Reduce heat to medium, and cook,
stirring often, until onions are very soft and Flamingo Estate’s farm
boxes, available for
caramelized, about 1 hour. Whisk together
delivery in the Los
Shaoxing wine, miso, and gochugaru in a Angeles area, are filled
small bowl until miso is dissolved. Pour with produce from the
miso mixture into skillet, and cook, stirring company’s favorite
constantly, until wine is fully reduced, 2 to regenerative farmers.

Salmon Crudo
PHOTO P. 86
TOTAL 30 MIN; SERVES 6 TO 8
This eye-catching appetizer features thinly
sliced sushi-grade salmon bundled around
juicy winter citrus. Opt for salmon belly if
available; the extra fattiness pairs particu-
larly well with the rich coconut milk, spicy
chiles, and sharp grapefruit.
1/4 cup well-shaken and stirred
unsweetened coconut milk
2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 Tbsp. granulated sugar
1 tsp. fish sauce
3/4 tsp. green yuzu kosho (see Note)
3/4 tsp. grated peeled fresh ginger (from
1 [1-inch] piece)
1 large pink grapefruit
8 oz. sushi-grade boneless, skinless
salmon (preferably salmon belly)
1 red Fresno chile, seeded and thinly
sliced (optional)
Flaky sea salt, to taste
2 to 3 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Fresh cilantro leaves and finely
chopped fresh chives, for garnish
1. Whisk together coconut milk, lime juice,
sugar, fish sauce, yuzu kosho, and ginger in
a small bowl; set aside.
2. Zest grapefruit; set zest aside. Cut off
top and bottom of grapefruit. Standing
grapefruit upright on a cutting board, cut
along sides to remove peel and pith; turn
fruit over, and remove any remaining bits of
peel and pith. Cut between membranes to
separate segments. Cut each segment in
half crosswise; set aside on a paper towel–
lined plate.
3. Thinly slice salmon into 1/4-inch-thick
strips (about 4 inches long). Wrap 1 slice
of salmon around 1 piece of grapefruit to
form a loose bundle. Place on a rimmed
serving platter, and top bundle with 1 chile
slice, if using. Repeat process with remain-
ing salmon, grapefruit, and chile, if using.
Reserve any remaining grapefruit and chile
for another use. Season salmon with salt
to taste.
4. Spoon 2 to 3 tablespoons coconut milk
mixture on platter around salmon. Drizzle
with olive oil. Garnish with cilantro leaves
and chives. Sprinkle with reserved grape-
fruit zest to taste. Serve with remaining
coconut milk mixture on the side. —KAT
TURNER, LOS ANGELES
MAKE AHEAD Grapefruit segments can be
stored in an airtight container in
refrigerator up to 3 days.
WINE Tropical-fruited white wine: 2019
Hugo Mendes Lisboa Branco
94 FEBRUARY 2024
NOTE Yuzu kosho, bursting with a citrusy
and spicy flavor, is a Japanese condiment
made using either red or green chiles.
Find it at Asian grocery stores or online at
bokksumarket.com.
Kale Salad with
Halloumi Croutons
PHOTO P. 8 8
ACTIVE 25 MIN; TOTAL 30 MIN
SERVES 4 TO 6
Crispy bits of fried Halloumi, dried tart
cherries, and shaved preserved lemon peel
speckle this simply elegant salad. Massage
the earthy za’atar dressing into the kale to
soften the leaves for a more tender bite.
Halloumi, a salty and firm cheese, is often
sold in tightly sealed packages to lock in
moisture—be sure to pat the cheese dry
before frying to minimize splatter.
ZA’ATAR VINAIGRETTE
2 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
11/2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
11/2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
11/2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 Tbsp. maple syrup
1/2 tsp. za’atar
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
SALAD
2 bunches lacinato kale, stems
removed and leaves roughly torn
(about 7 tightly packed cups)
1 cup shredded purple cabbage
2 Tbsp. thinly sliced preserved lemon
peel (about 1-inch-long pieces)
Canola oil, for frying
1 (8.8-oz.) pkg. Halloumi cheese,
patted dry and cut into 1/2-inch
cubes (see Note)
1/2 cup dried tart cherries
1/4 cup packed fresh mint leaves
1/4 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
leaves
1. Make the za’atar vinaigrette: Whisk
together shallot, olive oil, mustard, vinegar,
lemon juice, maple syrup, za’atar, and salt
in a small bowl; set aside.
2. Make the salad: Toss together kale,
cabbage, preserved lemon peel, and 1/3 cup
za’atar vinaigrette in a large bowl. Massage
mixture using your hands until kale is soft-
ened, 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.
3. Heat 1/2 inch canola oil in a large skillet
over medium-high to 350°F. Pat cheese dry
with paper towels. Add cheese to skillet,
and fry, turning often, until golden brown
on all sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer fried
cheese to a paper towel–lined plate. Let
cool slightly, about 5 minutes.
4. Toss cherries, mint, parsley, and fried
cheese with kale mixture. Serve salad
immediately with remaining za’atar vin-
aigrette on the side. —KAT TURNER, LOS
ANGELES
MAKE AHEAD Za’atar vinaigrette can be
made up to 3 days in advance and stored
in an airtight container in refrigerator.
NOTE Halloumi cheese has a high
melting point, which allows it to hold its
shape when fried or grilled. Find
Halloumi at most grocery stores or
specialty Mediterranean markets.
Glazed Turnips
TOTAL 40 MIN; SERVES 6 TO 8
Hakurei turnips, a small Japanese vari-
ety, have a mild, peppery bite, natural
sweetness, and tender skin. Simply
braising and glazing in a light sauce
spiked with citrus juice and dashi is all it
takes to transform them into a craveable
side dish. If substituting larger turnips,
such as purple top, peel the skin, and
cut them into bite-size pieces before
braising. Serve these glazed turnips with
savory crêpes, roast chicken, or seared
pork chops.
2 lb. hakurei turnips, scrubbed,
trimmed, and halved (about 6
cups)
11/2 cups water
1 Tbsp. instant dashi powder (such
as Ajinomoto Hon Dashi) (see
Note)
1/4 cup yuzu juice (see Note)
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into
1/2-inch pieces
2 Tbsp. honey
2 tsp. black and white sesame
seeds, toasted
1. Place turnips in a single layer in a
12-inch skillet. Whisk together 11/2 cups
water and instant dashi powder; pour
into skillet. Drizzle in yuzu juice. Sprinkle
evenly with sugar, and dot butter pieces
over top. Bring to a boil over medium-
high, stirring occasionally. Cook, stirring
often, until turnips are tender and liquid
has reduced into a thick, glossy glaze, 20
to 25 minutes.
2. Transfer turnips to a serving bowl.
Drizzle evenly with honey, and sprinkle
with sesame seeds. Serve hot. —KAT
TURNER, LOS ANGELES
NOTE Instant dashi powder is available
at Japanese grocery stores or online at
bokksumarket.com. Yuzu juice is
available at most Asian grocery stores
or online at jubileegrocery.com.
Umami-rich instant dashi
powder and bright, fra-
grant yuzu juice make
Glazed Turnips a side
dish worthy of a special
occasion.
Yuzu and Lemon Cake
with Buttercream
Frosting
 2. Beat butter and eggs in bowl of a
Yuzu and Lemon stand mixer fitted with the paddle Citrus and Galliano
Cake with attachment on medium-high speed
until smooth and creamy, 1 to 2 min-
Gin Fizz
Buttercream utes. Add sweetened condensed milk,
PHOTO P. 90

Frosting and beat on medium speed until well

ACTIVE 40 MIN; TOTAL 3 HR 15 MIN
SERVES 10
Sweet rice flour gives this turmeric-
stained cake a pleasantly chewy texture.
It’s topped off with fluffy buttercream
made with sweetened condensed milk and
garnished with sticky candied kumquat
slices. For a light and airy whipped frost-
ing, make sure the butter and condensed
milk are both at room temperature.
Reserve the syrup from the candied kum-
quats for adding to cocktails, like the Cit-
rus and Galliano Gin Fizz (recipe follows).
CAKE
1 cup mochiko (sweet rice flour)
(such as Koda Farms) (about 5 oz.)
(see Note)
1/2 cup all-purpose flour (about 21/8
oz.)
11/4 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. ground turmeric
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter (4 oz.), melted
and cooled, plus more for greasing
2 large eggs
1 (14-oz.) can sweetened condensed
milk
3/4 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup yuzu juice or lemon juice
1 Tbsp. grated lemon zest (from 2
lemons)
CANDIED KUMQUATS
1/2 cup thinly sliced kumquats (about
8 kumquats)
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup water
CONDENSED MILK BUTTERCREAM
3/4 cup unsalted butter (6 oz.),
softened
1 cup sweetened condensed milk,
at room temperature
1 Tbsp. grated lemon zest (from
2 lemons)
1/4 tsp. ground turmeric
1/8 tsp. kosher salt
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS
Bee pollen (optional) and fresh
mint leaves, for garnish
1. Make the cake: Preheat oven to 350°F.
Grease a 9-inch round cake pan with
butter, and line bottom with parchment
paper; set aside. Whisk together mochiko,
all-purpose flour, baking powder, turmeric,
and salt in a medium bowl; set aside.
combined, about 20 seconds. Add
heavy cream, yuzu juice, and lemon
zest, and beat until combined, about
15 seconds. With mixer running on low
speed, gradually add flour mixture,
beating until just incorporated. Increase
speed to medium-high, and beat until
smooth, about 10 seconds. Pour batter
into prepared cake pan, and gently tap
pan on work surface to release bubbles.
3. Bake in preheated oven until cake
is golden brown and a wooden pick
inserted in center comes out clean, 35
to 40 minutes. Let cake cool in pan 15
minutes. Invert cake onto a wire rack;
let cool completely, about 2 hours.
4. Make the candied kumquats: Bring
kumquats, sugar, and 1/2 cup water to a
boil in a small saucepan over medium-
high, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat
to medium; simmer, stirring occasion-
ally, until liquid is reduced to a thick
syrup and kumquats are tender, glossy,
and slightly transparent, about 12 min-
utes. Pour mixture through a fine wire-
mesh strainer over a small heatproof
bowl; reserve syrup for another use, if
desired. Place candied kumquats in a
single layer on a parchment paper–lined
baking sheet; discard any seeds. Let
cool completely, about 15 minutes.
5. Make the condensed milk butter-
cream: Beat butter in bowl of a stand
mixer fitted with the whisk attachment
on high speed until fluffy and bright
white, 6 to 8 minutes, stopping to
scrape down sides of bowl as needed.
Reduce speed to medium-low, and
slowly add sweetened condensed milk,
beating until well combined, 2 to 3 min-
utes. Add lemon zest, turmeric, and salt;
beat on medium speed until frosting is
thick and fluffy, about 1 minute.
6. Assemble the cake: Place cooled
cake on a platter. Spread buttercream
evenly over top of cake. Sprinkle with
candied kumquats. Garnish with bee
pollen, if using, and fresh mint leaves.
—KAT TURNER, LOS ANGELES
MAKE AHEAD Candied kumquats can
be stored in syrup in an airtight
container in refrigerator up to 1 week.
Assembled cake can be stored in an
airtight container at cool room
temperature up to 2 days.
NOTE Mochiko (sweet rice flour) is
made from short-grain rice and gives
the cake a dense crumb and mochi-like
texture. Find it at Asian grocery stores
or online at bokksumarket.com.
ACTIVE 10 MIN; TOTAL 30 MIN
SERVES 1
Herbal and citrusy, this frothy-topped
cocktail balances tart fresh lemon juice
with a salty and sweet preserved lemon
syrup. Galliano liqueur brings complex-
ity and notes of anise and vanilla to play
off the aromatic gin. Save the leftover
candied kumquat syrup from Turner’s
Yuzu and Lemon Cake with Buttercream
Frosting (recipe at left), and try it in place
of simple syrup for an added layer of
citrus flavor.
PRESERVED LEMON SYRUP
1/4 cup jarred preserved lemon liquid
2 Tbsp. granulated sugar
GIN FIZZ
1 egg white
3 Tbsp. (11/2 oz.) gin
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 Tbsp. (1/2 oz.) Galliano liqueur (see
Note)
1 Tbsp. simple syrup or reserved
candied kumquat syrup (from Yuzu
and Lemon Cake with Buttercream
Frosting, recipe at left)
1 tsp. preserved lemon syrup
1/2 cup chilled club soda
Lemon peel, for garnish
1. Make the preserved lemon syrup:
Stir together preserved lemon liquid and
sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a
simmer over medium, and cook, stirring
occasionally, until sugar is dissolved, 2 to
3 minutes. Let simmer, undisturbed, 30
seconds. Remove from heat, and transfer
syrup to a small heatproof bowl. Let cool
completely, about 20 minutes.
2. Make the gin fizz: Combine egg white,
gin, lemon juice, Galliano, simple syrup,
and preserved lemon syrup in a cocktail
shaker. Cover and shake vigorously until
frothy, about 15 seconds. Fill shaker with
ice; cover and shake vigorously until well
chilled, about 20 seconds.
3. Double-strain mixture through a cock-
tail strainer and a fine wire-mesh strainer
into a chilled martini glass. Top with club
soda. Garnish with lemon peel. —KAT
TURNER, LOS ANGELES
MAKE AHEAD Preserved lemon syrup
can be stored in an airtight container in
refrigerator up to 2 weeks.
NOTE Galliano liqueur is available at
most specialty liquor stores or online at
theliquorbros.com.

FEBRUARY 2024 97
 F&W CLASSICS from p. 100
her lovingly personal cooking: James
Baldwin ate there, along with the
Freedom Riders; the Black Panthers held
meetings; Jesse Jackson campaigned;
and white supremacists, she matter-of-
factly told me, threw a pipe bomb
through the front door.
Cecilia Chiang’s story spanned
continents, at times on foot, and
culminated in the 1961 opening of The
Mandarin in San Francisco, arguably
the first restaurant in the U.S. to offer
true regional Chinese cooking instead
of the chop suey and egg foo young
most Americans mistook for it.
She had grown up in a large Chinese
family of unimaginable privilege. Chiang
and her 11 siblings shared a building
with their many caretakers in her
family’s palatial Beijing compound. Her
mother and father slept in their own
domicile, and there were two more
buildings to house all the other servants.
Her life sounded idyllic, the dining table
routinely loaded with the finest dishes
cooked by the family’s two highly skilled
chefs, who both worked under the
exacting direction and impeccable taste
of her mother.
In 1942, a few years after Beijing was
occupied by the Japanese, 22-year-old
Chiang and an older sister fled, with
their parents’ blessing and disguised in
commoners’ clothes, by walking over
1,000 miles to Chongqing, still under
Chinese Nationalist control. On that
journey, they had all their belongings
stolen and narrowly escaped Japanese
98 FEBRUARY 2024
bayonets and the strafing of fighter plane
bullets, the whole time never bathing,
their skin encrusted in fleas.
And somehow, in the face of all that,
Chiang remembered the food of her
journey, despite how meager it must
have been in those desperate circum-
stances. She recalled the diversity of
cuisines she observed as they walked
and how she learned the vastness and
variety of Chinese cooking. It was a
lesson that would inform her future
career in restaurants.
At first, I had a hard time understand-
ing how those two things could have
coexisted in her awareness and memory.
How could a person whose life was
crumbling as the world warred have
been paying attention to anything about
food beyond the biological imperative
to eat?
But the truth is, our lives are interwo-
ven with a patchwork of daily details
that take on their deepest meaning as
the big stuff happens all around us.
That brings me to the recipe Chiang
shared for the story, the one she chose
to represent her own iconic life, which
we now know came to an end in 2020
when she was 100. It wasn’t juicy,
jewellike dumplings with silken skins
that could take years to learn the art of
folding, or a fragrant soup layered with
hours of slow-simmered flavor that was
served as the final course at the dinners
of her youth. No, it was a humble
Shanghainese dish of stir-fried cabbage
and thinly sliced pork loin, seasoned
simply with soy sauce, white pepper,
and sherry. It’s an easy and satisfying
one-wok dish you could whip up on a
busy weeknight, so low-pressure that
even the mushrooms, she assured me,
were optional. It revealed the wisdom
she’d earned through life: There’s no
need to bolster one’s iconic status with
elaborate displays of sophistication and
skill. Honest cooking will do.
Cecilia Chiang in 1968 at the grill table
for Mongolian barbecue at her San
Francisco restaurant, The Mandarin.
Chiang is holding a pair of the long
chopsticks that guests at the restaurant
used for grilling.
Shanghai Stir-Fried Pork
with Cabbage
PHOTO P. 100
ACTIVE 20 MIN; TOTAL 35 MIN; SERVES 4
Pork loin strips tossed in a savory and
tangy soy-and-sherry mixture are com-
bined with cabbage and shiitake mush-
rooms in this elemental stir-fry that takes
just 20 minutes of active cooking time.
3/4 lb. boneless center-cut pork loin
roast, trimmed
8 dried whole shiitake mushrooms
(about 1/3 cup)
1 1/2 Tbsp. dry sherry
1/4 cup peanut oil, divided
1 Tbsp. soy sauce
2 tsp. cornstarch
1/4 tsp. ground white pepper
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 small head napa cabbage (about
1 lb.), cored and thinly sliced (about
6 cups), divided
Cooked white rice and chile sauce,
for serving (optional)
1. Cover and freeze pork until firm, 15 to 20
minutes. Place mushrooms in a microwav-
able bowl; add hot water to cover, and
drape a paper towel over bowl. Microwave
on high for 3 minutes. Remove bowl from
microwave; let stand until mushrooms
soften, about 15 minutes. Discard paper
towel; drain mushrooms, squeezing to
remove excess water. Cut off and discard
stems; slice caps into 1/4-inch-thick slices.
2. Slice pork crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces.
Stack slices; cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips.
Transfer strips to a bowl. Add sherry,
1 tablespoon peanut oil, soy sauce, corn-
starch, and white pepper; toss to coat.
3. Heat a large skillet or wok over high. Add
1 1/2 tablespoons peanut oil, and heat until
oil just begins to smoke. Add pork; cook
over high, stirring constantly, until pork is
lightly browned but still pink in spots (pork
will not be fully cooked); transfer to a plate.
Add salt and remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons
peanut oil to skillet; swirl to combine. Heat
until oil shimmers, about 10 seconds. Add
mushroom caps and half of the cabbage
(about 3 cups), and cook, stirring con-
PHOTOGRAPHY: VISI CANO MOORADIAN
stantly, until cabbage is just wilted, about
1 minute. Add remaining cabbage, and
cook until crisp-tender, about 1 minute and
30 seconds. Return pork to skillet; cook
until pork is cooked through, about 1 min-
ute. Serve immediately with cooked rice
and chile sauce, if using. —CECILIA CHIANG
WINE Zippy natural white wine: 2022
Christina Netzel Grüner Veltliner
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Shanghai Stir-Fried Pork

with Cabbage
During her 100-year lifetime, Cecilia Chiang brought regional Chinese
cooking to an America obsessed with chop suey.
By Daniel Gritzer

Freeze the
pork for 20
minutes to
firm it up and
make it easier
to thinly slice
and stir-fry in
a flash (recipe
p. 98).

THE TOPIC WAS CULINARY ICONS, profiling one in biggest culinary revelations of his whole career was FOOD STYLING: EMILY NABORS HALL; PROP STYLING: CLAIRE SPOLLEN

each decade of life from teenager to nonagenar-
ian, and I was the Food & Wine editor assigned
to the story. In the span of a few months in 2011,
I interviewed some of the food world’s greatest
culinary luminaries and collected a recipe from each.
Wolfgang Puck, then in his 60s, was wrestling with
whether to remove all his signature dishes from
Spago’s menu as part of a reboot. (The smoked
salmon pizza is still being served today.) Forty-seven-
year-old Bobby Flay confessed to sitting up late at
night pining for his earliest NYC restaurants, hoping
to reinvent Mesa Grill and reopen Bolo. (There’s a
Mesa Grill in Vegas; Bolo is still a distant memory.)
Fifty-something Thomas Keller told me one of the
when a waiter picked up a pair of scissors to cut a
piece of tape, forever ending his kitchens’ inexact
habit of tearing it by hand. I still laugh about that
one, so perfectly, absurdly Keller.
The conversations that resonated with me the
most, though, were the ones I had with the article’s
IN THIS ISSUE three oldest legends: Madhur Jaffrey (78 at the time),
The theme of Leah Chase (89), and Cecilia Chiang (91). Jaffrey
the January revealed she’d been pigeonholed as an Indian cook-
2012 issue was
All-Time Greats,
book author despite her expertise and interest in
with recipes Italian cooking. Chase described a life at her New
and stories from Orleans restaurant, Dooky Chase’s, where the
some of the revolutions of American history intersected with
world’s preemi-
nent chefs. CONTINUED ON P. 98

100 FEBRUARY 2024 photography by GRANT CORNETT

 i n f r o z e n

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