AN

INSPIRED Hand-Harvested
Wild Rice

CELEBRATION
page 6

Grilled Sweet
Potatoes
with Chile
Crisp

Cider-Braised
Turkey

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2023
$7. 9 9 U.S. / $ 9. 9 9 CA N A DA
Watercress and
Apple Salad
 INS IDE T HE
TEST KI TC HEN
Behind the Scenes
Left: Team members from across the company sample a variety
of recipes from the Cook’s Country cook-through of The Sioux
Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen (2017). Right: Test Cook Mark Huxsoll
cooks amaranth as the first step of making crackers.
Editor in Chief Toni Tipton-Martin
Editorial Director Bryan Roof
Executive Editor Scott Kathan
Executive Editor, Creative Content Morgan Bolling
Deputy Food Editor Nicole Konstantinakos
Deputy Editor Megan Ginsberg
Senior Editors Matthew Fairman, Jessica Rudolph
Senior Photo Test Cook Lawman Johnson
Test Cooks Mark Huxsoll, Amanda Luchtel, Kelly Song
Photo Test Cook Faye Yang
Executive Managing Editor, Creative Operations Todd Meier
Copy Editors Amelia Freidline, Katrina Ávila Munichiello, April Poole
Executive Editor, Digital Mari Levine
Contributing Editor Eva Katz
Senior Science Research Editor Paul Adams
Executive Editors, ATK Reviews Hannah Crowley, Lisa McManus
Deputy Editor, ATK Reviews Kate Shannon
Senior Editors, ATK Reviews Miye Bromberg, Carolyn Grillo
Associate Editor, ATK Reviews Chase Brightwell
Assistant Editor, Digital, ATK Reviews Sawyer Phillips
Assistant Editors, ATK Reviews Valerie Sizhe Li, Sarah Sandler
Creative Director John Torres
Photography Director Julie Cote
Art Director Maggie Edgar
Art Director, ATK Reviews Marissa Angelone
Associate Art Director Kristen Jones
Graphic Designer Rose Flynn
Senior Staff Photographers Steve Klise, Daniel J. van Ackere
Photographer Kevin White
Senior Photography Producer Meredith Mulcahy
Senior Print Production Specialist Lauren Robbins
Production & Imaging Coordinator Amanda Yong
Production & Imaging Specialists Tricia Neumyer, Dennis Noble
Assistant Test Kitchen Director Alexxa Benson
Test Kitchen Shopping & Receiving Lead Heather Tolmie
Senior Kitchen Operations Assistant Crispin Lopez
Ingredient Receiving Coordinator Christopher Miller
Kitchen Facilities and Equipment Coordinator Ethan Rogers
Executive Editor, Video & Cooking School Christie Morrison
Culinary Producers Alli Berkey, Janette Zepeda
Assistant Culinary Producer Mel Velasco
Food Stylists Sasha Coleman, Chantal Lambeth, Elle Simone Scott
Chief Executive Officer Dan Suratt
Chief Creative Officer Jack Bishop
Chief Operating Officer Evan Silverman
Chief Marketing and Data Officer Lee Boykoff
Chief Digital Officer Fran Middleton
Senior VP, Human Resources & Organizational
Development Colleen Zelina
VP, Brand Partnerships Michelle O’Connor
VP, Marketing Natalie Vinard
VP, Technology Dustin Brandt
Editorial Director, Digital Content Kevin Pang
Director, Audience Acquisition & Partnerships Evan Steiner
Director, Public Relations & Communications Brian Franklin
Senior Director, Social Media & Emerging Platforms
Kathryn Przybyla
Senior Social Media Manager Charlotte Errity
Social Media Manager Norma Tentori
Social Media Coordinator Sarah Ahn
Community Engagement Coordinator Karen Tran
Director, Customer Support Timothy Quinn
Customer Support Specialists Nanda-Devi Davies,
Michaela Gilgenbach, Danielle Lutz
Hosts & Executive Editors, Television Julia Collin Davison,
Bridget Lancaster
Circulation Services PWX Solutions
 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
I F YO U ’ V E S E E N my
kitchen pantry, you know
it is where my culinary iden-
tity is stored. It embraces
flavors handed down from
my vegetarian mother, my
upbringing in Southern
California, and the diverse
palate I have nurtured
through my work. There are
aromatic spices, from all-
spice to za’atar, and a dozen
bottles of vinegar plus a
whole world of condiments,
such as harissa, sriracha, and
fish sauce, that make global
cooking fun, an adventure.
The grains section is packed
with more than just white
and brown rice. Here, you’ll
find long and short grain,
sushi, jasmine, arborio,
and Carolina Gold next to
organic millet, couscous, and the African “super-
grain” fonio. I could go on.
The holiday turkey featured in my cookbook,
Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American
Cooking (2019), is a child of this pantry. Chile-rubbed,
roasted, and served with a pecan-speckled sauce, the
beautiful, bronze centerpiece owes its irresistible
essence to the Mexican flavors that crossed the bor-
der in my youth, contributing robust taste to classic
and Southern dishes. Although I initially fretted that
the recipe would read heretical to folks expecting me
to suggest a classic bird seasoned mildly with sage,
cookbook buyers relished it.
With global pantries in mind, this issue of Cook’s
Country presents a menu that explores Indigenous
foodways in honor of Indigenous Peoples Day. The
dishes we recommend can also give new meaning to
Thanksgiving. For ideas, we turned to Sean Sherman’s
THE COMPLETE COOK’S COUNTRY TV SHOW COOKBOOK
Every Recipe and Review from All 16 Seasons, Now in Hardcover!
Hit the road with the top-rated Cook’s Country TV show as we search out the best recipes
from across America along with the cooks that inspired them. This beautiful new hardcover
edition includes every recipe ever featured on the show (620+!) and a 55-page shopping
guide with updated ingredient and equipment picks. Order your copy at CooksCountry.
com/tv. It makes a great gift too!
The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen (2017), a James
Beard Award winner encouraging readers to cook with
purpose and passion.
I met Sherman in 2019 when we were on the
program at the Fort Collins Book Festival. His native
kitchen drew me in again when I visited his restaurant
Owamni by The Sioux Chef, where guests gather
to enjoy bison so tender it cuts like butter, wild rice
laced with aromatic juniper, and grilled sweet potatoes
garnished with maple chile crisp—food that is smart,
creative, and unbelievably seductive.
Sherman’s star has continued to glow ever since.
Owamni earned the best new restaurant medal from
the James Beard Foundation. Time magazine named
him one of the Most Influential People of 2023. And
he recently received the Julia Child Award, which is
given to an individual (or team) who has made a pro-
found and significant difference in the way America
cooks, eats, and drinks.
I invited the Cook’s Country staff to experience
Sherman’s kitchen too. I wanted the team to reach
beyond their own unique pantry staples and to be
inspired and even encouraged to part with seasonal
traditions, looking for dishes centered on local ingre-
dients and vibrant flavors. Led by curiosity and open
minds, they chose recipes, cooked side by side in the
test kitchen, and then shared their experiences at an
inviting table dressed abundantly with delicious food
(see image at left).
The menu spotlighting fresh, local, native ingre-
dients in these pages is the result. We know the new
flavors and aromas will challenge your traditions,
but we also hope the promise of a gracious meal rich
with Native tradition and based on natural foods will
inspire you.
What’s in your pantry?
TONI TIPTON-MARTIN
Editor in Chief
 25
FEATURES
6 A CELEBRATORY FEAST
Looking at Thanksgiving through a Native lens.
8 ON THE ROAD: OWAMNI
Reclaiming ancestry through food.
10 CIDER-BRAISED TURKEY
Tender, succulent meat and a delicious, silky sauce
that practically makes itself. And you can do most
of the work ahead of time.
11 HAND-HARVESTED WILD RICE
A richer, more meaningful rice.
12 GRILLED SWEET POTATOES WITH
MAPLE CHILE CRISP
38 A spicy-sweet new favorite.
13 WATERCRESS AND APPLE SALAD
Watercress shines in this crunchy, refreshing salad.
14 GETTING TO KNOW
Pawpaws
16 CRANBERRY-GLAZED PORK LOIN
Here’s how to achieve an unfailingly juicy roast
with a glossy, lacquered, flavorful glaze.
18 SPICED ORANGE AND FENNEL SALAD
As the weather gets colder, citrus gets more
appealing—especially when paired with
fennel and spices.
16
20
19 OLIVE OIL MASHED POTATOES
A lighter but deeply flavorful version of everyone’s
favorite side dish.
20 SEARED CHICKEN CUTLETS WITH
BASIL
The fragrant herb takes center stage in this simple
one-pan dinner.
25 BEET DIP WITH YOGURT AND TAHINI
This earthy, sweet, and vibrant dip will brighten
any table.
26 KLOBÁSNÍKY
These buttery, sausage-stuffed Texas Czech pas-
tries are so worth the effort.
28 FLASH-MARINATED SKIRT STEAKS
Loads of flavor, fast.
29 SHAVED CAULIFLOWER SALAD
Don’t cook your cauliflower; shave it.
30 SHANGHAI SCALLION OIL NOODLES
Scallions go from sidekick to star in these
savory-sweet noodles.
32 SHOOFLY PIE
We baked 50 pies to get this Pennsylvania Dutch
classic just right.
34 APPLESAUCE SPICE CAKE WITH
BROWN SUGAR ICING
With its rich, caramel-like topping, this
buttery-sweet, lightly spiced cake is sure to please.
 America’s Test Kitchen has been teaching home
cooks how to be successful in the kitchen since
1993. Our mission is to empower and inspire
confidence, community, and creativity in the
kitchen. Millions watch our two shows on public
television; read our two flagship magazines
(Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated);
and rely on our books, websites, videos, and
21 podcasts. America’s Test Kitchen is located in
a state-of-the-art Boston facility with 15,000
square feet of test kitchen and studio space.
Learn more at AmericasTestKitchen.com.

30

FIND THE ROOSTER!

DEPARTMENTS We’ve hidden a tiny version of the rooster
above in a photo in the pages of this issue. Tell
4 QUICK BITES 36 INSTANT POT us where the rooster is hiding, and we’ll enter
you in a random drawing. The first correct
Beef Ragu
5 ATK REVIEWS
entry drawn will win a one-year multisite web
membership, and the next two correct entries
Potato Mashers 37 COOKING FOR TWO drawn will receive a copy of The Complete
Pasta e Fagioli Cook’s Country TV Show Cookbook. To enter,
go to CooksCountry.com/rooster and fill out

21 DINNER TONIGHT 38 COOKING CLASS the submission form. All entries for this issue’s
drawing must be received by October 31, 2023.
Bulgur with Roasted Browned Butter Chocolate The June/July 2023 drawing winner, Tammy

Vegetables, White Beans, and Chunk Muffins Wong of Alameda, Calif., found the rooster on
page 9.
Arugula Salad
40 ONE PAN
Filets Mignons with Cod and Green Rice
Parsnip Puree
41 HOW TO MAKE
Glazed Salmon with Kale, Brown Sugar Applesauce
Pear, and Cheddar Salad
42 ATK REVIEWS
Pepperoni Pizza with Blue Cooking Sprays 34
Cheese, Pickled Peppers, and
Honey 43 ATK REVIEWS
13 by 9-Inch Baking Pans
Roasted Chicken Thighs with
Potatoes and Green Beans
44 BONUS RECIPE DOWNLOAD OUR APP
Seeded Lavash The America’s Test Kitchen app delivers the
Shrimp Scampi with
Crackers best-tasting recipes, how-to-cook videos,
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and more! Download America’s Test Kitchen

Stir-Fried Vegetables and

45 COOK’S COUNTRY today and become a culinary master! Go to
AmericasTestKitchen.com/app.
Pork with Crispy Wontons
PORTRAIT
Matthew Raiford
Turkey Burgers with
Pickled Cranberries

13

Cook’s Country magazine (ISSN 1552-1990), number 113, is published bimonthly by America’s Test Kitchen Limited Partnership, 21 Drydock Avenue, Suite 210E, Boston, MA
02210. Copyright 2023 America’s Test Kitchen Limited Partnership. Periodicals postage paid at Boston, MA, and additional mailing offices, USPS #023453. Publications Mail
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 QUICK BITES:
T E ST K I TC H E N T I P S , R EC S , A N D OT H E R T I D B I TS TO C H E W O N
by the Cook’s Country team

SUNFLOWER OIL COLORFUL CAULIFLOWER

Sunflowers, native to the White cauliflower isn’t the only variety available in supermarkets—orange, purple,
American Southwest, and green cauliflower are increasingly common. These hybrid varieties have been
have been grown and put bred to have high levels of naturally occurring pigments; orange cauliflower gets its
to a variety of uses by color from an abundance of carotenoids, while purple cauliflower gets its color from
Indigenous peoples for anthocyanin compounds. Extra chlorophyll creates green cauliflower. Regardless of
millennia. Recent history color, these cauliflowers all share the same mildly nutty, sweet flavor. If you want to
has seen the sunflower add some color to your cauliflower dishes, use these varieties in raw applications,
become one of the world’s such as our cauliflower salad (page 29). When
top oil crops, with Rus- cooked, colorful varieties of vegetables don’t
sia and Ukraine leading always retain their striking hues.
global production. –Amanda Luchtel
Sunflower oil is available
in two primary types:
refined and unrefined. Orange
Refined sunflower oil is the The carotenoids in orange cauliflower are the
most commonly available most stable when cooked. The color stays
in American supermarkets. It is neutral-tasting vibrant when blanched or sautéed, no matter
with a high smoke point (450 degrees), making how long you cook it.
it ideal for high-heat cooking applications such
as searing, sautéing, frying, and baking. This is Purple
the type of sunflower oil you’ll want to use for The water-soluble compounds in purple
making our Grilled Sweet Potatoes with Maple cauliflower are the most sensitive of the three
Chile Crisp (page 12). Unrefined or cold-pressed colored types covered here; boiling dulls
sunflower oil is more flavorful purple cauliflower’s color if it’s cooked past
(retaining more of the nutti- crisp-tender. Stick to sautéing to prevent it
ness of the seeds) but also from fading as much.
more volatile, giving it a
shorter shelf-life and a Green
lower smoke point (of In its raw state, green cauliflower, which is
about 320 degrees). a hybrid of broccoli and cauliflower, is more
It’s less common and fibrous than the other varieties. It is best to
best used (like a good gently cook it to preserve its color; the chloro-
extra-virgin olive oil) in phyll in green cauliflower is heat-sensitive and
raw applications such as vin- will fade if cooked beyond crisp-tender.
aigrettes or for finishing dishes.
–Matthew Fairman

HOW TO CARVE A TURKEY DRUMSTICK

It’s fun and satisfying to pick up a turkey drumstick and bite into it (hello,
Renaissance Fair), but if you want to carve the meat off for your holiday dinner,
here’s an easy, tidy way to do it. Stand Up
Stand the drumstick upright with the meaty side resting on the cutting and Slice
board. Slice downward against the bone—you can cut thin slices or cleave Holding the
larger chunks off (and slice them later if desired)—and then rotate the drum- drumstick upright,
stick. Repeat this until all the meat is carved off the bone; you may want to slice downward,
remove the tendons before serving. –Mark Huxsoll rotating bone
as you go.

4 CO O K’S COUN T RY • OCTO B ER /N OV EMB ER 2023

 QUICK BITES

ATK REVIEWS
WOK TALK
A wok is the ultimate all-in-one vessel that no home kitchen should
be without. In Chinese American homes, it’s often the only piece
of cookware used on the stovetop. A wok’s high walls and rounded
shape make it easy to stir-fry foods (as with Shanghai Scallion Oil
Noodles, page 31) with less spillage and better browning than in a
skillet. In addition to stir-frying, woks can also be used for boiling,
deep frying, and stovetop
braising. We prefer
carbon-steel versions, which
acquire seasoning over time
and become increasingly
nonstick. –Kelly Song THE BEST POTATO MASHERS
by Lauren Savoie and Sawyer Phillips

A GOOD MASHER is an underrated tool. To find the best, we

rounded up a range of wavy and perforated mashers. We mashed boiled
WHAT ARE WARM SPICES?
russets, sweet potatoes, and Yukon Golds in 2- and 4-quart saucepans
The cozy aroma of cinnamon in an apple pie, nutmeg in a pumpkin and an 8-quart Dutch oven. We noticed that mashers with perforated
pie, or cloves in molasses cookies—much of our cold weather bak- mashing plates made smoother potatoes and took less effort than wavy
ing is characterized by the warmth of spices. But what exactly do products. The larger gaps in wavy
we mean when we talk about “warm” spices? mashers left lumps of untouched
The most common warm spices are cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, potato, and these mashers’ blocky
and cloves (though other spices are considered warm as well, footprints made it difficult to navi-
such as ground ginger, mace, cardamom, turmeric, and anise). gate the circular interiors of pans,
They are generally used to add woody, sweet, tingly, or spicy depth especially in smaller saucepans.
to foods—baked goods especially but also drinks and savory Wavy mashers occasionally bent
dishes. Most of these spices get their characteristic aromas from or warped during mashing, while
ring-shaped molecules called benzenoid rings. –Jessica Rudolph the solid plates on most perfo-
rated mashers stayed rigid. Perforated = Wavy =
NUTMEG Testers also zeroed in on the Smoother Lumpier
CLOVES handles’ size, shape, and material.
Larger-handed testers had trouble holding handles that were 4 inches
long or shorter; thin, short, or metal handles were uncomfortable and
slippery. Lefties and righties of all sizes preferred handles around 5 or
6 inches long with a slight curve and a secure plastic grip.
ALLSPICE
Finally, we washed all the mashers by hand after each test and ran
them through the dishwasher 10 times to simulate months of washing.
Our favorite products were easy to clean by hand and still looked as
CINNAMON
good as new after multiple runs through the dishwasher.
The Zyliss Stainless Steel Potato Masher rose to the top. With a large,
Allspice grippy handle and a large plate, this perforated masher was maneuver-
Allspice is a pea-size berry from the evergreen pimento tree that able, comfortable, and efficient.
grows in tropical climates, such as Jamaica’s. Its flavor is reminis-
cent of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
OUR TOP PICK

Cinnamon Zyliss Stainless Steel

Potato Masher
Most cinnamon sold in this country is rolled tree bark of the cassia LO N G, CO MFORTABLE
Model: E980044U
tree, not Ceylon cinnamon, which is known as “true” cinnamon. Price: $12.99 H AND LE keeps hands
“Cinnamon” is actually an umbrella term for several different spe- away from hot food

cies of evergreen trees in the genus Cinnamomum.

STU R DY
Cloves CONSTRUCTION
doesn’t bend or
Pungent, peppery cloves are the dried, unopened buds of an Indo- warp when mashing
nesian tree. They resemble nails—in fact, the word “clove” comes MOD ERAT E SI ZE
from “clavus,” the Latin word for nail. maneuvers easily in
L ARG E small and large pots
PER FORAT ED PLAT E
Nutmeg mashes lots of potatoes
Heady and powerful, nutmeg is a hard, brown seed from a evenly and uniformly

tropical tree.
Web subscribers can see the complete results chart at AmericasTestKitchen.com/nov23.

OCTOBE R/ NOVE MB ER 2023 • CO OK’S COU NTRY 5

 to cook with what
Igrows, roams, and swims where you live—
T MAKES SENSE

proximity equals freshness, and eating local

foods is a way of eating more naturally. Sean
Sherman, chef and owner of Owamni by The
Sioux Chef, has an approach that goes deeper:
He strives to primarily use ingredients that
are native to North America, particularly the
upper Midwest. While Sherman’s cooking is
sometimes called precolonial, at its heart his
cuisine is about celebrating native (and Native)
foodstuffs and not about shunning ingredients
brought here from other continents.
Inspired by this idea, we developed a small
menu of Thanksgiving dishes that abide by
chef Sherman’s prin-
ciples of focusing on
. . . IT FREED foods native to North
America. We brought
US TO LOOK a piece of Sherman’s
philosophy back into
AT INGRE- our test kitchen to
DIENTS AND develop recipes for
Cider-Braised Turkey,
FLAVORS Hand-Harvested Wild
DIFFERENTLY Rice with Dried Mul-
berries, Grilled Sweet
... Potatoes with Maple
Chile Crisp, and
Watercress and Apple
Salad with Maple-Hazelnut Vinaigrette, all
crafted solely from ingredients that naturally
evolved on this continent. Thus, there is
no wine in these dishes, no black pepper, no
dairy, no pork, no cane sugar, no citrus. What
we found was that omitting those ingredients
didn’t limit us in the kitchen—it freed us to
look at ingredients and flavors differently and
to think about the origins of our food in a
more profound way.
Sherman says (in The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous
Kitchen [2017]) that few Native Americans
celebrate Thanksgiving today because of the
holiday’s complicated history. But, “Many do
gather . . . in a ritual giving of thanks for the
harvest and to honor their ancestors. Our family
and friends cook a meal of squash, wild rice, and
turkey all seasoned with indigenous flavors.”
However you approach the holiday, we hope
that you celebrate the season with your loved
ones—and these recipes. –Scott Kathan
 MINNEAPOLIS

OWAMNI
Reclaiming ancestry through food.
by Bryan Roof; photos by Steve Klise

OWA M N I BY T H E Sioux Chef, rich nuttiness; hand-harvested wild

the modern Indigenous restaurant
in downtown Minneapolis, sits
along the Mississippi River atop
the ruins of an 1800s-era flour
mill. Chef and owner Sean Sher-
man, who is Oglala Lakota from
Pine Ridge Reservation in South
Dakota, opened Owamni in July of
2021 to promote the foodways of
the Ojibwe and Dakota tribes with
a menu of precolonial ingredients
indigenous to North America.
The dining room has clean
lines of blond wood, black steel,
and gray brick. Floor-to-ceiling
windows overlook the Mississippi
River and St. Anthony Falls, a
rice—what Sherman refers to as
“true wild rice”—with currants and
root vegetables; and grilled sweet
potatoes drizzled with “indigenous
chile crisp,” a dish so simple and
perfectly executed that, as a chef,
I’m humbled by its genius.
When it comes to understand-
ing and cooking with indigenous
foods, Sherman says, “You have to
know that you’re not going to find
some of these flavors in the grocery
store. But if you look outside and
learn the plants, you’re going to
start to see it. Go outside and learn
the names of things and create
a relationship. You’re going to In 2014, drawing on his knowl-

PURPLE HEART TRL

sacred site known as Owámni- start seeing nothing but food and edge of indigenous ingredients, OWAMNI
BY THE SIOUX CHEF
yomni in Dakota. The medicine everywhere Native dishes, and traditional
bar seating gives diners “WHAT IS THE you look.” cooking techniques, Sherman OLSON MEMORIAL HIGHWAY

a view into the heart of The grounds sur- officially began working as “The
the open kitchen where INDIGENOUS rounding Owamni Sioux Chef,” taking on catering

MN-280
I-3 94

a dozen or so cooks, PANTRY OF are filled with plants gigs and hosting pop-up dinners, PURPLE HEART TRL

waiters, and bartenders indigenous to the and eventually opening the Tatanka IN DIG EN OU S
work in quiet harmony. WHERE WE northern Midwest. Truck food truck. After he won F O OD L AB
Sherman, whose ARE RIGHT At the base of each the bid for the Owamni restaurant

H IA

MISSISSIPPI RIVER
WA
BD E MA K A

TH
I-35W
SK A

AA
Lakota name is Waŋblí plant is a placard list- space in 2017, Sherman’s popup

EV
Wathákpe, meaning HERE?” ing its Dakota name dinners became more experiential, L A KE
MI NNE AP OL IS
first, followed by the featuring Native musicians, paint-
H A R R IE T

Charging Eagle, tours - SEAN SHERMAN

me through the restau- English name and ers, poets, and singers.
rant. He points out a map on the description. Sherman talks about Heading into the kitchen, bar are laid out on a baking sheet.
wall showing historic waterways, this as “passive education.” Sherman points out some of the Sherman explains that they’re first
mostly in Minnesota, which he He says that a lot of his work ingredients the cooks are work- boiled in a mixture of water and
refers to as the “original highways.” has been to “re-understand the ing with: dandelion pesto; tepary maple syrup and then roasted with
The waterways are listed by their pantries in these various areas. bean succotash; arepas of wild salt and chile. “Is that a standard
Dakota names, which each have a What is the indigenous pantry rice and corn; multiple varieties preparation for crickets?” I ask.
particular meaning. “Usually [they] of where we are right here? It’s of hard squash that have been “That’s just what we came up
have something to do with food,” looking at all this diverse plant pureed, pickled, or roasted; pea with,” Sherman says, continu-
he says. “This is ‘where the fish growth around us and trying to shoots; mustard greens; grilled ing with a chuckle, “I don’t think
break,’ or this is ‘where the geese understand what the Indigenous wild mushrooms; sautéed peppers there’s a standard for crickets.”
meet.’ Or ‘Rice Lake’ or ‘Potato peoples knew. Food, medicine, and onions; “shattered” pepitas; We turn our attention to
Lake’ or ‘Onion Lake.’” crafting, how to harvest, when to hazelnuts; turnips; colorful Pima wild rice, called “manoomin” in
Illustration: Sophie Greenspan

As we talk, I dine on smoked
trout with tepary-bean spread and
wojape, a cooked berry puree; elk
tartare with pickled carrots, blue-
berries, and sumac; a small bowl
of roasted crickets and seeds that
have the crunch of granola and a
harvest, which parts to harvest. All
those kinds of pieces, and starting
to try to rebuild that education.”
Without systems in place to
record, steward, and respect this
Indigenous knowledge, Sherman
fears that it may be lost.
corn; branches of dried cedar;
sprigs of coniferous hemlock (the
tree, not the poisonous plant).
Days ago, they received 40 beavers
that will eventually find their way
onto the menu.
The crickets I snacked on at the
Ojibwe, meaning “good berry.”
Wild rice holds significant impor-
tance to Indigenous people, as
Sherman explains, “The Anishi-
naabe have a legend that when
they migrated out west to land
here, they were trying to find

8 CO OK’S COU N TRY • OCTOB ER/ NOV EMB ER 2023

the place where the ‘food grows
on the water,’ meaning this wild
rice. They were looking for their
homelands. Their whole iden-
tity is tied to this piece.”
He points out the color
variations among the three
types of rice laid out
before us, and offers up
tasting notes for each.
Sherman grabs a
small saucepan, adds
some of the rice that was
hand-harvested by tribal
members of White Earth
Nation, and fills the pot
with just enough water to
cover the rice. He throws
in a handful of dried white
mulberries, a shot each of
sunflower oil and maple
syrup, a three-finger pinch
of salt, and a sprig of coniferous of aroma, it’s got a lot of flavor all
hemlock. He kicks on the stove by itself.”
burner and brings the mixture to About 3 miles across town,
a simmer. While it cooks, he adds inside Midtown Global Market, is
some raw wild rice to a dry carbon- Sherman’s research and develop-
steel skillet and toasts it over high ment space, Indigenous Food Lab
heat, shaking the pan constantly, (IFL). The space serves as a hub
until the rice puffs like popcorn. for catering operations and also
We snack on it while we wait. prepares some of the foundational
The boiled rice cooks in just items for the restaurant, such as
about 20 minutes, and Sherman tortillas and arepa dough. The
notes that true wild rice cooks IFL, which opened in June of food leaders in the future. We call “As Indigenous people, so many
more quickly and tastes much 2023, is also a native market for the this the Spirit kitchen,” Sherman of us can reconnect with our ances-
different than cultivated wild rice, community. “It’s a place for people says. The space will also be used try, even if it’s broken, and start to
aka paddy rice, which takes about to come and purchase indigenous for cooking demonstrations and rebuild. What is a sense moving
three times as long to cook and has food products that we curate from shooting educational videos. forward for us is just reclaiming
a chewier texture and woodier fla- Indigenous producers, as well as About 70 percent of the our true North American foods.
vor. This particular true wild rice a small menu where people can employees at Owamni and the The true story of North America.”
tastes slightly grassy, with notes order some real grab-and-go kinds IFL identify as Indigenous, and
of toasted walnut and a gentle of indigenous foods.” Sherman says there are more and Left page, top to bottom: Sean
smokiness. The hemlock adds a Across from the IFL prep area is more Indigenous chefs cropping up Sherman; a neon sign decorates the
entrance wall at Owamni by The Sioux
piney flavor, like a cross between a small secondary kitchen. “Part of throughout the country. “It’s this Chef. Right page, clockwise from top:
fresh sage and juniper, and the our work is to train more Indig- movement that’s up-and-coming An assortment of tea blends made
mulberries add pops of sweetness. enous entrepreneurs. So people and it’s been happening for a while. from locally sourced indigenous plants;
a bowl of puffed wild rice (left), bowls
Sherman says when you “taste can take over this kitchen and sell We’ve seen it grow from nothing
of raw wild rice (right); Rocio Cortes
the rice for what it is, it doesn’t and test-market their products to now a handful of restaurants removes a corn and wild rice arepa
really need anything. It’s got a lot to help develop more Indigenous across the nation. from the griddle.

OCTO BE R/ NOV EMBE R 2023 • COO K’S COUN T RY 9

 Cider-Braised Turkey
Tender, succulent meat and a delicious, silky
sauce that practically makes itself. And you
can do most of the work ahead of time.
by Mark Huxsoll
B R A I S I N G T U R K E Y PA R T S
is a much more failproof path to
tender, moist meat than roast-
ing a whole bird is. This year our
holiday turkey is inspired by Sean
Sherman, who includes a recipe
for cider-braised turkey in his book
The Sioux Chef’s Indigenous Kitchen
(2017). In our version—which has
a different method and flavor pro-
file from Sherman’s—turkey legs
are braised in sweet-tart apple cider
with onion, dried porcini mush-
rooms, sage, and a hint of ginger.
There is no stock added; during
the 3-hour cooking time the meat,
skin, and bones of the turkey legs
give up plenty of flavor and body to
the cider, effectively creating their
own stock. The rich dark meat
emerges so tender it pulls from the
bone with ease. For the sauce, the
onion, ginger, and mushrooms are
blended into the flavorful brais-
ing liquid to make a thick “gravy”
that is balanced enough to be
ladled over everything on your
holiday plate.
THE BEAUTY OF BRAISING
Braising simply means cooking
something (most often tougher
cuts of meat) low and slow,
covered, in liquid; the cover traps
steam that helps efficiently ten-
derize tough cuts while keeping
them moist.
Turkey legs have a good bit
of connective tissue that braising
helps convert into gelatin, which
results in tender and juicy meat.
A huge bonus of this method is
that the braising liquid becomes
intensely flavored and is easily
transformed into a tasty sauce.
Note: Many braised meats are
first seared and browned to create
10 COO K’S COUN T RY • O CTO BE R /N OVE MBER
a fond (the browned bits on the
bottom of the pot) that is then
incorporated into the braising
liquid for extra flavor. We found
that this step was messy and
unnecessary here; the sauce is
plenty flavorful without it, and we
brown the turkey parts in a hot
oven before serving to make the
skin more appealing.
SALTING IS KEY
Salting the raw turkey thighs and/
or drumsticks for 12 to 24 hours
before cooking is essential.
When salt is applied to raw
meat, it draws juices inside the
meat to the surface; the juices
mix with the salt to form a brine,
which is reabsorbed by the meat.
As the salt is pulled into the turkey
meat, it changes the protein
structure so that the meat is better We cook the turkey parts in the Since the turkey isn’t browned
able to retain moisture. The salt foil-covered pan for 90 minutes. before braising, we brown it after
also helps season and tenderize Then we take the pan out of the braising—skin side up nestled
the meat. oven, remove the foil, flip each into the blended sauce—in a
piece, and continue to cook for 400-degree oven. This process
A FLIP FOR EVEN COOKING— another 90 minutes of braising. builds in a fantastic make-ahead
AND THE RIGHT AMOUNT option, as you can braise and
OF SAUCE FINISHING TOUCHES blend a day in advance and refrig-
Our testing determined that When the turkey thighs and/or erate the turkey and sauce. Then
3 hours at 300 degrees was the drumsticks are fully tender, we all you have to do on the day is
perfect amount of time to braise transfer them to a platter and blend proceed with the browning step
the roughly 8 pounds of tur- some braising liquid with the solids about 45 minutes before you’re
key parts to complete and silky to create a silky, well-rounded, ready to serve.
tenderness. But when we braised ultrasavory sauce.
them fully submerged in liquid,
we were left with too much of
that liquid at the end of cooking. Braising Arrangement
Instead, we add just enough cider We call for braising the turkey BRAISING LIQUID
COVERS MEAT
to submerge the turkey parts half- parts in a roasting pan. The HALFWAY
FOIL
way; while this gave us the right parts should be halfway sub-
amount of liquid to turn into a merged in the liquid (they get
sauce at the end, it meant that we flipped once). An aluminum
had to flip the pieces once during foil lid traps steam for more
cooking so that every morsel spent efficient cooking.
enough time cooking in the liquid.
Illustration: Rose Flynn
2023
 CIDER-BRAISED TURKEY
Serves 8 to 12 Total Time: 4 hours, plus 12 hours salting
You can use any combination of bone-in turkey thighs and drumsticks
you like; look for pieces with an average weight of about 1 pound each.
You can substitute vegetable oil for the sunflower oil and table salt for
the fine sea salt if desired. We developed this recipe using our winning
roasting pan, the Cuisinart MultiClad Pro 16" Roasting Pan with Rack
(we did not use the rack), but it can also be made in a heavy-duty dis-
posable aluminum pan; be sure to place the disposable pan on a baking
sheet for extra support. Note that the turkey needs to be salted for at
least 12 hours before cooking.

8 pounds bone-in turkey thighs beginning to fall off bones, about

and/or drumsticks, trimmed
1½ tablespoons fine sea salt,
divided
2 tablespoons sunflower oil
1 onion, chopped
1 (3-inch) piece ginger, sliced
into ¼-inch-thick rounds
3 cups apple cider
1 ounce dried porcini
1½ hours longer.
4. Remove pan from oven and
increase oven temperature to
400 degrees. Using slotted
spoon, transfer turkey skin side
up to large platter. Strain brais-
ing liquid through fine-mesh
strainer set over 8-cup liquid
measuring cup or large bowl.

Hand-Harvested
mushrooms, rinsed Discard sage sprigs.
6 sprigs fresh sage 5. Transfer strained solids and

2 tablespoons whole-grain
mustard
2 tablespoons cider vinegar,
plus extra for seasoning
1. Pat turkey dry with paper
towels and sprinkle all over with
1 tablespoon salt. Transfer to
large platter, cover with plastic
wrap, and refrigerate for 12 to
24 hours.
2 . Adjust oven rack to middle
position and heat oven to
300 degrees. Heat oil in large
saucepan over medium-high
heat until shimmering. Add
onion, ginger, and remaining
1½ teaspoons salt and cook,
stirring occasionally, until
vegetables are softened and
lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes.
Add cider, mushrooms, and
sage and bring to boil. Transfer
cider mixture to roasting pan.
Arrange turkey pieces in even
layer in pan. Cover pan tightly
with aluminum foil, transfer to
oven, and cook for 1½ hours.
3. Remove pan from oven, flip
turkey pieces, and re-cover pan
tightly with foil. Return pan
to oven and continue to cook
until meat offers no resistance
when pierced with fork and is
2 cups braising liquid to blender.
Return remaining braising
liquid to now-empty roasting
pan. Process solids in blender
until smooth, about 1 minute.
Add blended mixture, mustard,
and vinegar to braising liquid
in pan and whisk to combine.
Nestle turkey pieces skin side up
into sauce.
6. Return pan to oven and roast
turkey, uncovered, until skin is
well browned, 20 to 25 minutes.
Transfer turkey to serving plat-
ter. Season sauce with salt and
extra vinegar to taste and trans-
fer to gravy boat. Serve turkey
with sauce.
TO MAKE AHEAD
Turn off oven after removing
pan in step 4. Follow recipe
through step 5, letting turkey
and sauce cool completely in pan.
Cover and refrigerate for up to
24 hours. To serve, cover pan
with aluminum foil and heat in
400-degree oven for 15 minutes.
Remove foil and continue to
roast until skin is well browned
and turkey registers at least
165 degrees, 30 to 45 minutes.
Wild Rice
A richer, more meaningful rice. by Bryan Roof
HAND-HARVESTED WILD RICE Reduce heat to low, cover, and sim-
WITH DRIED MULBERRIES mer for 20 minutes.
Serves 4 Total Time: 55 minutes 2. Without removing lid, remove
We developed this recipe with pot from heat and let sit, still
wild rice from Native Wise LLC covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff rice
of Minnesota. The recipe times with fork and discard sage leaves.
are specific to hand-harvested wild Transfer rice to serving bowl and
rice. If you buy cultivated wild sprinkle with flake sea salt. Serve.
rice, see our recipe for Cultivated
Wild Rice with Dried Mulber-
ries at AmericasTestKitchen.com/ Hand-Harvested Wild Rice
nov23. This recipe can easily Natural, hand-harvested wild rice is
be doubled. a grayish-brown color, has a delicate
fragrance, and cooks in about
2¼ cups water 20 minutes. Cultivated “wild” rice
1½ cups hand-harvested is typically a glossy deep black and
wild rice takes 45 to 60 minutes to cook.
¼ cup dried white mulberries
1 tablespoon sunflower oil
1 tablespoon maple syrup
4 fresh sage leaves
¾ teaspoon fine sea salt
½–1 teaspoon flake sea salt
1. Combine water, rice, mulberries,
oil, maple syrup, sage, and fine sea
salt in medium saucepan and bring
to boil over medium-high heat.

OCTO BE R/ NOVEM BE R 2023 • COO K’S COU NTRY 11

 Grilled
Sweet
Potatoes
with Maple
Chile Crisp
A spicy-sweet new
favorite. by Bryan Roof
GR I LL ED SW EE T POTATOES
WIT H M AP L E C H ILE CRI S P
Serves 4 to 6 Total Time: 21⁄4 hours,
plus 2 hours cooling
Plan ahead: The potatoes should
cool for at least 2 hours before
grilling. Orange sweet potatoes of
any variety can be substituted for
the white sweet potatoes called for
in this recipe. This recipe can be
doubled to serve a larger crowd.
2 (12- to 16-ounce) white sweet
potatoes, unpeeled, each lightly
pricked with fork in 6 places
4 teaspoons sunflower oil, divided
½ teaspoon fine sea salt, divided
½ cup Maple Chile Crisp (recipe
follows), plus extra to taste
½ teaspoon flake sea salt
1 scallion, sliced thin on bias
1. Adjust oven rack to middle posi-
tion and heat oven to 400 degrees.
Line rimmed baking sheet with
parchment paper and place
potatoes on sheet. Bake potatoes
until paring knife inserted in
center meets no resistance, 1¼ to
1½ hours. Let potatoes cool com-
pletely, at least 2 hours. (Potatoes
can be baked and refrigerated up to
2 days in advance.)
2. Prepare medium-hot grill
or grill pan (if using grill pan,
preheat over medium-high heat
for 10 minutes). Clean and oil
cooking grate. Cut potatoes in
half lengthwise. Brush cut sides of
potatoes with 2 teaspoons oil and
sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon fine sea
salt. Place potatoes cut side down
12 COOK’S COU N TRY • O CTO BE R/ NOVE M BER
on grill and cook until potatoes
are char-streaked and easily release
from grill, 3 to 5 minutes.
3. Brush skin sides of potatoes
with remaining 2 teaspoons oil and
sprinkle with remaining ¼ tea-
spoon fine sea salt. Using firm
metal spatula, flip potatoes and
cook until lightly browned on skin
side and just heated through, 3 to
5 minutes.
4. Transfer potatoes to cutting
board. Cut each potato in half
lengthwise, then in half crosswise.
Arrange potatoes on platter and
spoon maple chile crisp over top,
plus extra to taste. Sprinkle with
flake sea salt and scallion. Serve.
White Sweet Potatoes
These light-fleshed sweet potatoes
are firmer and starchier than their
orange-fleshed counterparts.
2023
MAP LE CH ILE CRI SP
Makes about 1¾ cups
Total Time: 1 hour,
plus 4½ hours cooling
Plan ahead: The chile crisp needs
to sit for at least 4 hours before
using. In step 2, it’s important to
combine all the ingredients in a
metal bowl because the shock of
adding hot oil to a Pyrex or glass
bowl could cause it to shatter. This
recipe makes a moderately spiced
chile crisp. If you prefer your
chile crisp slightly milder, you can
reduce the numbers of arbol and
chipotle chiles to two each.
3 dried chipotle chiles
3 arbol chiles
2 ancho chiles
2 guajillo chiles
2 dried New Mexico chiles
3 scallions, sliced thin
2 tablespoons maple sugar
3 garlic cloves, minced
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
1½ cups sunflower oil
1. Adjust oven rack to middle posi-
tion and heat oven to 400 degrees.
Spread chipotle, arbol, ancho,
guajillo, and New Mexico chiles on
rimmed baking sheet. Roast until
fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes. Let chiles
cool completely on sheet, about
10 minutes.
2. Stem and seed chiles. Break
chiles into 1- to 2-inch pieces.
Working in batches, pulse chiles in
spice grinder until pieces no larger
than ¼ inch remain, about 6 pulses.
Transfer ground chiles to medium
metal bowl. Add scallions, sugar,
garlic, and salt to chile mixture.
3. Heat oil in small saucepan over
medium-high heat to 375 degrees.
Carefully pour hot oil over chile
mixture in bowl (mixture will
bubble aggressively). Let sit,
stirring occasionally, until cooled
completely, about 30 minutes.
Transfer chile crisp to jar and let
sit for at least 4 hours before using.
(Chile crisp will keep at room tem-
perature for at least 1 month.)
 Watercress and
Apple Salad
Watercress shines in this crunchy,
refreshing salad. by Nicole Konstantinakos
W A T E R C R E S S — a perennial
plant in the mustard family that
grows wild on the banks of rivers
and streams (and is widely avail-
able in grocery stores)—is peppery
and crunchy and makes a wonder-
ful, palate-cleansing salad green.
This cress looks delicate but deliv-
ers a bold punch of flavor. It holds
its own when paired with other
strongly flavored elements, such as
smoked fish or grilled meats, but
here we wanted a simple salad in
which the clean freshness of the
cress could shine and serve as a
foil to the richer, more complex
dishes on our holiday table.
One of the unique qualities of
watercress is that its stems are
hollow and crisp-tender, which,
unlike the stems of many other
greens, provides a welcome
crunch without being too fibrous.
To complement this texture, we
added a handful of sweet-tart
green apple matchsticks. And
to tie it all together, we made a
simple, well-rounded dressing
with a touch of flair: With mildly
nutty hazelnut oil as the base,
we added toasted hazelnuts (to
deepen the nutty aromas and add
crunch), maple syrup (for sweet-
ness), apple cider vinegar (for
tang), and whole-grain mustard
(to echo the piquant notes of the
cress). A few brief pulses in the
blender and our dressing was
beautifully emulsified, glossy, and
bursting with flavor.
WATE RCR ESS A ND
APPL E SAL A D W I TH
M APL E- HA ZE LNUT
V INA I G RE TT E
Serves 6 to 8
Total Time: 30 minutes
We love the mild, nutty flavor
of hazelnut oil in this salad, but
you can substitute any neutral
vegetable oil, such as sunflower or
canola. You can substitute table
salt for the fine sea salt. You can
use hazelnuts with or without
skins in this recipe.
1⁄3 cup hazelnuts
¼ cup hazelnut oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1 tablespoon whole-grain
mustard
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
6 ounces (6 cups) watercress,
torn into 1- to 2-inch pieces
1 Granny Smith apple, Cutting Matchsticks
cored and cut into
matchsticks
1 . Toast hazelnuts in 10-inch
skillet over medium heat, stirring
often, until golden and fragrant,
3 to 5 minutes. Transfer hazelnuts
to blender jar and let cool com-
pletely, about 15 minutes.
2 . Pulse hazelnuts, oil, vinegar,
maple syrup, mustard, and salt in
blender until hazelnuts are coarsely
chopped and mixture is creamy,
6 to 8 pulses. Transfer dressing to
large bowl. Add watercress and
apples and toss gently to combine. 1. Core and halve the apples and then 2. Stack the planks and cut them
Transfer to platter. Serve. cut them into ¼-inch-thick planks. into thin matchsticks.
OCTOB ER /NOVE MB ER 2023 • COOK’S COUN TRY 13
 GETTING TO K N O W

PAWPAWS
Pawpaws taste like a
tropical fruit but are
grown right here in
America. W H E R E T O F I N D PAW PAW S
Pawpaws are primarily found in the eastern
by Amanda Luchtel
half of the United States, roughly from Mis-
souri to Maryland. Most local supermarkets

PAW PAW S — in that region don’t sell pawpaws because

they’re in short supply and spoil quickly;
sometimes referred to
you’re more likely to find them at farmers’
as “America’s forgot-
markets when they’re in season. Depending
ten fruit”—are the
on their latitude, pawpaws can be harvested
largest fruit indig-
from late July to October, when the trees’ big
enous to North
green leaves begin to turn golden, which indi-
America. These
cates that the fruit is ripe. Pawpaws must
green-skinned
be picked when ripe (unripe pawpaws
peanut-shaped
will not ripen off the tree). There
fruits range from
are a few small processing
3 to 6 inches
plants in the growing regions
long. Their inte-
where locals can process
riors vary from
their pawpaws, allowing
a soft yellow to
people to order pack-
a golden or light
aged pulp online, but
orange hue. Each
they sell out quickly.
pawpaw contains
several large lima bean–
size seeds. This seemingly
tropical fruit grows in hanging
clusters that resemble a “hand”
of bananas. Some people refer to
papayas as pawpaws (or papaws), but
they are not the same fruit.
A member of the custard-apple family,
pawpaws have creamy, rich, and custardy
flesh. Their sweet flesh is highly aromatic
and lacks tartness and acidity. The flesh
has notes of banana, mango, and pine-
apple and varies in flavor depending on
the variety and growing location. Under-
ripe pawpaws are generally quite mild,
Photography: Shutterstock

but like bananas, they intensify in flavor

as they ripen.

14 CO OK’S COU NT RY • O CTO BE R/N OVEMBER 2023


PICKING
F L AV O R F U L
PAW PAW S
Picking a ripe pawpaw is similar to
choosing a ripe avocado or peach;
use the squeeze test. The most
accurate test for ripeness is to
place the fruit in the palm of your
hand and gently squeeze: It should
yield slightly to the pressure. Ripe
pawpaws should also give off a
mango- or banana-like smell. Some
prefer very ripe pawpaws, heavily
speckled (or even black), in their
recipes—similar to ripe bananas
used for banana bread.
STORING
PAW PAW S
Pawpaws bruise easily, so trim any
stems and store the fruit in a single
layer at room temperature for a few
days. Fully ripened pawpaws can be
refrigerated for up to a week.
H O W T O P R E P A PAW PAW
1. Using chef’s knife, halve pawpaw
lengthwise and pull apart with
your hands.
3. Scoop seeded pawpaw flesh out
of skins and into large bowl.
FRESH and skin contain
PROCESSED alkaloids that can
PULP cause illness—don’t
We prefer the flavor of
raw pawpaws to cooked,
as cooking pawpaws lessens
their tropical notes. For fresh
pulp to use the next day, place it in an
airtight container and place plastic
wrap directly on the surface of the
pulp to prevent oxidation.
FROZEN PULP
Freezing the fruit’s pulp is the
most reliable way to preserve it.
To freeze pawpaw pulp, add 1-cup
portions (or enough for one recipe)
of pawpaw pulp to zipper-lock or
vacuum-sealable bags. To guarantee
a clean edge, fold back the last 2 to
3 inches of the bag into a cuff before
adding the pulp. Once the pulp is
in the bag, simply unfold the cuff,
remove as much air as possible, and
seal. Frozen pawpaw pulp is best
thawed in the refrigerator overnight
or by submerging the packages in a
water bath.
2. Using spoon, remove seeds from
pawpaw halves.
4. Evenly mash pawpaws into coarse
pulp with potato masher.
Pawpaw seeds
PA W PA W F E S T I VA L S A N D T R E AT S
Pawpaw festivals showcase this delectable fruit across the
eastern United States. The Ohio Pawpaw Festival is known
eat them!
for events including cook-offs, competitions for the best and
biggest pawpaws, and a pawpaw-eating contest. While most
people who forage for pawpaws love to cut them open ripe from
the picking and squeeze the sweet pulp directly into their mouths
before spitting out the seeds, some will mix the flesh into other sweet
treats, sauces, and beverages. Some of the crowd favorites are pawpaw
ice cream and pawpaw beer. Inspired by the idea of a pawpaw ice cream,
we developed our own recipe for this frosty treat.
PAWPAW IC E CR EAM second large bowl until smooth,
Serves 8 (Makes about 1 quart) about 30 seconds.
Total Time: 1 hour, plus 5 hours 2. Heat cream, milk, corn syrup,
chilling and freezing salt, and remaining 6 tablespoons
An instant-read thermometer is sugar in medium saucepan over
critical for the best results. Using medium-high heat, stirring occa-
a prechilled metal loaf pan and sionally, until mixture registers
working quickly in step 4 will 175 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes.
help prevent melting and Remove saucepan from heat.
refreezing of the ice cream and Slowly whisk heated cream mix-
will speed the hardening process. ture into yolk mixture.
If using a canister-style ice cream 3. Return mixture to saucepan
maker, be sure to freeze the and cook over medium-low
empty canister at least 24 hours heat, stirring constantly, until
and preferably 48 hours before mixture thickens and registers
churning. For self-refrigerating 180 degrees, about 4 minutes.
ice cream makers, prechill the Immediately pour custard
canister by running the machine through prepared strainer and
for 5 to 10 minutes before pour- let cool until no longer steaming,
ing in the custard. about 20 minutes, stirring occa-
sionally. Cover and refrigerate
6 large egg yolks until well chilled, at least 2 hours
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons or up to 24 hours.
(41⁄3 ounces) sugar, divided 4. Whisk pawpaw pulp into
1¾ cups heavy cream custard. Transfer custard to
1 cup whole milk ice cream maker and churn
1⁄3 cup light corn syrup until mixture resembles thick
¼ teaspoon table salt soft-serve ice cream and registers
1 cup mashed pawpaw pulp about 21 degrees, 15 to 25 min-
utes. Transfer ice cream to chilled
1. Place 8½ by 4½-inch loaf loaf pan and press plastic wrap
pan in freezer. Set fine-mesh onto surface. Freeze until firm, at
strainer in large bowl. Whisk least 3 hours. Serve.
egg yolks and ¼ cup sugar in
OCTOBER/N OVE MB E R 2023 • COO K’S COU NTRY 15
 Cranberry-Glazed Pork Loin
Here’s how to achieve an unfailingly juicy roast with a glossy, lacquered, flavorful glaze.
by Matthew Fairman

The cranberry flavor is

bolstered by hoisin, honey,
ginger, and orange.

16 CO O K’S COU NT RY • OCTOBE R/ N OV E MBE R 2023

THIS RECIPE TRANSFORMS Simmering a mixture of CRANB ERRY-GLAZE D ROAST POR K LOIN
an affordable cut into an occasion- cranberries, cranberry juice, Serves 6 to 8
worthy centerpiece: a juicy, honey, hoisin sauce, orange juice, Total Time: 2¼ hours, plus 12 hours 20 minutes salting and resting
thoroughly seasoned pork loin and ginger makes for a complex A blade-end roast is our preferred cut, but a center-cut boneless pork loin
burnished with a bright, tart cran- but cranberry-forward glaze. roast can also be used. This recipe calls for cranberry juice cocktail, which
berry glaze. The almost-candied, The sweet, floral honey both is sweetened cranberry juice; avoid unsweetened cranberry juice. Note
caramelized, savory-sweet edges of complements and offsets the that the meat needs to be seasoned for at least 12 hours before cooking.
the roast make a delectable crust. tartness of the cranberries, while
The failproof recipe for achiev- the hoisin gives the glaze a savory 1 (3-pound) boneless blade-end and rubber spatula dragged across
ing these impressive results hinges backbone. The fresh ginger adds pork loin roast, trimmed bottom of pan leaves trail that fills
on some key steps. Since pork loin subtle heat, further balancing the 1 tablespoon kosher salt in quickly, 12 to 16 minutes. (Mix-
is a lean cut with subtle flavor, it glaze’s sweetness. 2 teaspoons pepper ture should be reduced to 2⅔ cups
requires careful treatment. Salting Achieving a glaze with just the 1½ teaspoons five-spice powder before straining.) Strain cranberry
the pork at least 12 hours before right consistency to adhere to and 10 ounces (2½ cups) fresh or mixture through fine-mesh strainer
roasting ensures that it is well coat the roast mostly boils down frozen cranberries set over bowl, pressing on solids to
seasoned and helps keep the meat to cooking off a precise amount 2 cups cranberry juice cocktail extract as much liquid as possible;
tender and juicy. Cranberries and of moisture. Here, reducing the ½ cup honey discard solids.
pork both pair beautifully with sauce to 2⅔ cups delivers consis- 1⁄3 cup hoisin sauce 4. Measure out ¾ cup cranberry
warm spices, so a bit of five-spice— tent results. Brushing the pork ¼ cup orange juice glaze for brushing pork; reserve
with its notes of cinnamon, star with a portion of the glaze in 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger remaining glaze for serving. Line
anise, Sichuan peppercorn, fennel, three applications (once before rimmed baking sheet with alumi-
and clove—provides additional and twice during roasting) ensures 1. Pat pork dry with paper num foil and set wire rack in sheet.
depth with the salt. Finally, remov- that it emerges from the oven towels. Combine salt, pepper, Spray rack with vegetable oil spray.
ing the roast from the oven when it evenly and thickly lacquered. and five-spice powder in bowl. Unwrap pork and place fat side up
reaches 130 degrees takes carry- The remainder of the delicious Sprinkle pork all over with salt on prepared rack. Brush top and
over cooking into account, keeping glaze doubles as a finishing sauce, mixture. Wrap pork tightly in sides of pork with ¼ cup glaze.
the meat from overcooking (which meaning that each bite has ample plastic wrap and refrigerate for at Roast pork for 25 minutes.
can make it dry or chalky). cranberry flavor. least 12 hours or up to 24 hours. 5. Remove pork from oven and
2. Adjust oven rack to upper- brush with ¼ cup glaze. Return
middle position and heat oven to oven and roast for 25 minutes.
Blade-End versus Center-Cut Pork Loin: to 375 degrees. Bring cranber- Remove pork from oven and
What’s the Difference? ries, cranberry juice, honey, repeat brushing with remaining
This recipe works well with either a blade-end or center-cut pork loin, hoisin, orange juice, and ginger ¼ cup glaze. Return to oven and
but we prefer the blade-end. What exactly does that mean? to boil in medium saucepan over continue to roast until pork regis-
Boneless pork loin roasts are cut from the primal loin, the long medium-high heat and cook until ters 130 degrees, 20 to 40 minutes
stretch of muscles (and bones) in the center of the hog’s back between cranberries begin to burst, 3 to longer, checking temperature
the shoulder and the hind legs. The portion of the loin closest to the 5 minutes. Off heat, mash cran- every 5 minutes after 20 minutes.
head is known as the blade end because it abuts the blade, or shoulder. berries with potato masher until Transfer roast to carving board,
mostly broken down. tent with foil, and let rest for
A boneless blade-end roast is cut from the fatty shoulder end of
3. Return cranberry mixture to boil 20 minutes.
the loin. It contains parts of more than one muscle, some dark meat
over medium-high heat and cook, 6. Microwave reserved glaze until
(which is less prone to drying out), and/or some connective tissue. It
stirring often and adjusting heat warm, 30 to 60 seconds. Slice pork
has a bit more fat and more flavor.
as needed to maintain vigorous thin and serve with glaze.
A boneless center-cut roast contains just the large, lighter-colored, simmer, until glaze is thickened
lean loin muscle, typically with a thin fat cap surrounding most of the
roast. The entirety of this cut is quite lean, with a clean, mild taste.
Getting the Glaze Right
For a glaze that clings to the
pork rather than runs off, boil the
cranberry mixture until thickened
enough that a rubber spatula
dragged through it leaves a trail
that fills in quickly.
BONELESS BLADE-END BONELESS CENTER-CUT
ROAST ROAST

O CTOBE R/ NOVE M BE R 2023 • CO OK’S COU NT RY 17


Spiced Orange
and Fennel Salad
As the weather gets colder, citrus gets more appealing—
especially when paired with fennel and spices. by Morgan Bolling
THIS IS THE time of year when
the produce section is generally
starting to look less bountiful, but
one subsection is just beginning to
shine: citrus. Citrus fruits actually
get sweeter in the winter, when
they are plentiful at the market,
making them a great option to
brighten dinner on a cold night.
For this take on an orange
salad, start at the store. If you’re
lucky and your grocery store
carries blood oranges or Cara
Cara oranges, buy a mix of those
alongside navel oranges and/or
mandarins. The different colors of
flesh and sizes of orange slices will
look strikingly beautiful together.
Use a sharp knife to cut the peels
18 CO OK’S COU NT RY • OCTOB ER/ NOVEM BER
and pith from the oranges, and
then slice them crosswise into
shiny, juicy rounds—another
maneuver for a gorgeous look.
Thinly slice a bulb of fennel
to add crunch and let it sit in a
bold dressing made with olive
oil, lemon, cumin, just a touch of
cinnamon, and a little sugar. The
lemon adds more acidic tartness
than orange juice while the spices
contribute complexity and warmth.
Toss the fennel and oranges
together and finish with slices of
briny, salty ricotta salata (feta works
just fine too) and some chopped
fresh mint. Whether you love
winter or hate it, this salad is sure
to brighten your day.
2023
Citrus, spices,
and a little crunch
make for a lively
winter salad.
Making Orange Rounds
Cut away peel and pith
from oranges, then slice fruit
crosswise ¼ inch thick.
Ricotta Salata
Meaning “recooked and salted”
in Italian, ricotta salata is a firm,
dry cheese with a salty flavor. Its
sliceability makes it a
nice addition to sal-
ads such as this one.
SP I CED O RA NGE AND
FE NN EL SA LA D
Serves 4 to 6
Total Time: 25 minutes
For the most striking visual, we
like to use a combination of orange
varieties here. We recommend
using a rasp-style grater to grate
the citrus zest. You can substitute
feta for the ricotta salata.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot, minced
1 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon sugar
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
plus 2½ tablespoons juice
1½ pounds navel oranges, blood
oranges, Cara Cara oranges,
mandarins, or a combination,
plus ½ teaspoon grated
orange zest
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 fennel bulb, stalks discarded,
bulb halved, cored, and
sliced thin crosswise
4 ounces ricotta salata, sliced thin
¼ cup chopped fresh mint, divided
1. Whisk oil, shallot, salt, sugar,
lemon zest and juice, orange zest,
cumin, and cinnamon together in
large bowl. Add fennel and toss to
combine; set aside.
2. Cut away peel and pith from
oranges, then slice fruit cross-
wise into ¼-inch-thick rounds.
Add oranges, ricotta salata, and
2 tablespoons mint to bowl with
fennel and toss gently to combine.
Season with salt and pepper to
taste. Transfer to serving plat-
ter and sprinkle with remaining
2 tablespoons mint. Serve.
 on the EVOO—we use ½ cup for becoming greasy. Add the rest
2 pounds of potatoes—and you of the oil as you mash to ensure
need to use a bit of technique. an even texture. The traditional
To start, peel and cut Yukon hand-mashing method works best
Gold potatoes into chunks and here to incorporate all the oil
simmer them in salted water until without overworking the pota-
tender, which takes toes, which can create a
about 15 minutes; our gluey texture.
. . . salting
testing has shown that Once the oil has
the water
salting the water really been mashed in,
does result in better really does season the potatoes
seasoned potatoes. result in by whisking in lemon
Before draining, better zest (to highlight the
reserve a cup of the seasoned oil’s fruity notes),
starchy cooking water, potatoes. black pepper (which
which is a key to get- teases out the peppery
ting the final texture just nuance in the oil), and
right. Then, drain the potatoes and salt. To finish, drizzle with a mix-
mash some of the reserved cooking ture of more olive oil, more black
liquid and some of the olive oil pepper, and more lemon zest and
into them. Adding both together serve. The result is a side dish that
creates an emulsion of the liquid is equally stunning, refreshing,
and the oil, allowing the potatoes and packed with flavor. Bring on
to fully absorb the mixture without the turkey and all the trimmings!

A drizzle of olive oil OLIVE OIL MASHED POTATOES
seasoned with black Serves 4 to 6
pepper and lemon zest Total Time: 40 minutes
reinforces the olive oil
flavor in the potatoes. We developed this recipe with
California Olive Ranch Global
Blend Medium Extra Virgin Olive
and simmer until potatoes are
fork-tender, 15 to 18 minutes.
2. Reserve 1 cup cooking water,
then drain potatoes. Return
potatoes to now-empty saucepan.
Add ¼ cup oil and ¼ cup reserved

Olive Oil
Oil. Any well-balanced extra-virgin cooking water and mash with
olive oil will work in this recipe; potato masher until oil and water

Mashed
For the best results, avoid olive oils are fully incorporated. Add ¼ cup
with markedly bitter notes. cooking water and remaining
¼ cup oil and continue to mash

Potatoes
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon
extra-virgin olive oil, divided
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest,
divided
A lighter but deeply flavorful version of ½ teaspoon pepper, divided
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes,
everyone’s favorite side dish. by Kelly Song peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
¼ teaspoon table salt, plus salt for
cooking potatoes
M A S H E D P O TAT O E S A R E the Thanksgiving meal’s crowd-pleaser—
who doesn’t love buttery, creamy spuds? But they can be so heavy that 1. Stir 1 tablespoon oil, ¼ teaspoon
you don’t always have room for much else. lemon zest, and ¼ teaspoon pep-
For this recipe, we sought to create lighter mashed potatoes that per together in small bowl; set
felt more fitting for a vibrant dinner, without sacrificing any of their aside for serving. Bring 2 quarts
textural or flavor appeal. Instead of using cream or butter, we decided water, potatoes, and 2 tablespoons
on extra-virgin olive oil as the fat of choice (potatoes mashed without salt to boil in large saucepan over
fat lack richness and cohesion). To make this dish work, you can’t skimp high heat. Reduce heat to medium
until fully incorporated.
3. Scrape down sides of saucepan
with rubber spatula. Add salt,
remaining ¼ teaspoon lemon zest,
and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper
and whisk until smooth and no
lumps remain, about 30 seconds.
(Whisk in reserved cooking water
as needed, 2 tablespoons at a
time, until potatoes are glossy and
smooth; you needn’t use all the
cooking water.)
4. Transfer potatoes to serving
bowl and use back of spoon to cre-
ate divots on surface. Drizzle with
reserved oil mixture. Serve.

O CTOB ER /N OVE MB ER 2023 • COO K’S COUN T RY 19


Seared Chicken
Cutlets
with Basil
The fragrant herb takes center stage in this
simple one-pan dinner. by Nicole Konstantinakos
P E R F E C T LY S E A S O N E D ,
tender, delicately browned chicken
cutlets are a delight in their own
right (and are pretty much good
to go with a squeeze of lemon or
a drizzle of your favorite condi-
ment), but we wanted to come up
with a simple dish that was easy
to prepare yet also a tad surpris-
ing. We started by prepping the
chicken. Halving boneless chicken
breasts horizontally and then
pounding them to ¼-inch thick-
ness ensured that they cooked
through quickly in a hot skillet but
still had enough time to pick up
some browning, which we further
encouraged by dredging them in
flour prior to cooking.
Mild chicken breasts pair
beautifully with a range of flavors,
from delicate to intense. Here
we used them as a blank canvas
20 COO K’S COU N T RY • O CTO BE R/ N OVE MBER
The topping on
these cutlets
incorporates all
the elements of
basil pesto.
for a profile inspired by all the
things we love about classic pesto:
peppery basil, pine nuts, olive oil,
pungent garlic, and salty-tangy
Parmesan cheese. Rather than
make actual pesto, we experiment-
ed with building a quick topping
using the same ingredients. We
discovered that our star ingredi-
ent—basil—could be treated in
much the same way as you might
treat baby spinach, with brilliant
results: After cooking the chicken,
using the residual heat of the skil-
let, we toasted garlic in olive oil
and then added a generous pile of
basil leaves, which wilted into a
bright green, fragrant tangle. We
added a handful of toasted pine
nuts and a splash of balsamic vin-
egar. Then, we swept the mixture
out of the skillet over our perfectly
pan-seared cutlets.
2023
PAN-SE ARED CHI CKE N
CUTLETS WITH W ILTED
BAS I L AN D PIN E N UTS
Serves 4 to 6
Total Time: 50 minutes
Toast the pine nuts in a dry skillet
over medium heat, stirring often,
until they are lightly browned
and fragrant. You can substitute
chopped almonds or walnuts for
the pine nuts. You will need about
4 ounces of fresh basil (sold in
sprigs), or several average bunches,
to yield 2 cups of leaves; be sure
the basil is very fresh, or it might
oxidize slightly as it wilts.
4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless skinless
chicken breasts, trimmed
1 teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ cup all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive
oil, divided
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups (2 ounces) fresh basil
leaves
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, shaved
with vegetable peeler
1 . Halve chicken breasts hori-
zontally to form 8 cutlets. Place
cutlets between sheets of plastic
wrap and gently pound to even
How to Make Thin, Even Cutlets
1. Halve each chicken breast horizon-
tally to form 2 cutlets.
¼-inch thickness. Pat chicken dry
with paper towels and arrange in
even layer on large plate. Sprinkle
cutlets on both sides with salt and
pepper flakes and refrigerate for
15 to 30 minutes.
2. Spread flour in shallow dish.
Working with 1 cutlet at a time
(do not pat them dry), dredge
cutlets in flour, shaking gently
to remove excess, and transfer to
clean, large plate.
3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in
12-inch nonstick skillet over high
heat until just smoking. Place
4 cutlets in skillet and cook until
spotty brown on first side, about
2 minutes. Flip cutlets and cook
until second side is spotty brown
and cutlets are cooked through,
about 2 minutes. Transfer to serv-
ing platter. Repeat with 2 table-
spoons oil and remaining 4 cutlets.
(Do not wipe skillet clean between
batches unless flour has burned.)
4. Off heat, add remaining
2 tablespoons oil and garlic to
oil remaining in skillet and cook,
using residual heat, until garlic is
pale golden, about 1 minute. Add
basil and toss constantly with tongs
until basil is wilted but still bright
green, about 30 seconds. Stir in
pine nuts and vinegar. Spoon basil
mixture over chicken. Top with
Parmesan and serve.
2. Place cutlets between sheets of
plastic wrap and gently pound to
even ¼-inch thickness.
 STIR-FRIED VEGETABLES AND PORK
FILETS MIGNONS WITH PARSNIP PUREE WITH CRISPY WONTONS

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 30 MINUTES

SHRIMP SCAMPI WITH ZUCCHINI NOODLES GLAZED SALMON WITH KALE, PEAR, AND CHEDDAR SALAD

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 35 MINUTES

 Stir-Fried Vegetables and Pork with Crispy Wontons
You can usually find crispy wonton
strips in the supermarket with croutons
or in the international aisles. Serve this
stir-fry over steamed rice and drizzle
with Chinese hot mustard and/or duck
sauce, if desired.
½ cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons unseasoned
rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 pound ground pork
6 scallions, white and green
parts separated and
sliced thin
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
1 (12- to 14-ounce) bag green
coleslaw mix
8 ounces shiitake mushrooms,
stemmed and sliced thin
2 cups crispy wonton strips
Glazed Salmon with Kale, Pear, and Cheddar Salad
If your cheddar is aged enough, you
can crumble it instead of cutting it,
creating craggier surfaces to soak up
more dressing. You can sprinkle some
toasted chopped walnuts or pecans
on the salad for extra crunch.
6 tablespoons red pepper jelly,
divided
3 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 shallot, minced
1¾ teaspoons table salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper, divided
8 ounces lacinato kale,
stemmed and sliced into
¼-inch-wide strips (6 cups)
4 (6- to 8-ounce) skin-on salmon
fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 ripe pear, halved, cored,
and cut into 2-inch-long
matchsticks
4 ounces extra-sharp
cheddar cheese, cut into
¼-inch pieces
1 . Combine soy sauce, vinegar,
sugar, and oil in bowl. Cook pork in
12-inch skillet over medium-high
heat until no longer pink, 5 to
7 minutes, breaking up meat
with wooden spoon. Add scallion
whites, garlic, and ginger and cook
until fragrant, about 1 minute.
Add coleslaw mix, mushrooms,
and soy sauce mixture and cook
until cabbage is just wilted, about
3 minutes.
2. Off heat, stir in scallion greens.
Divide pork mixture among indi-
vidual bowls. Sprinkle with wonton
strips and serve.
1. Whisk 2 tablespoons jelly, oil,
vinegar, shallot, ½ teaspoon salt,
and ¼ teaspoon pepper together
in large bowl. Add kale and toss to
combine; set aside.
2. Adjust oven rack 8 inches from
broiler element and heat broiler.
Line rimmed baking sheet with foil
and spray with vegetable oil spray.
Place salmon, skin side down, on
prepared sheet. Sprinkle salmon
with 1 teaspoon salt and remain-
ing ¼ teaspoon pepper. Whisk
cayenne and remaining ¼ cup
pepper jelly and ¼ teaspoon salt
together in bowl. Brush jelly mix-
ture all over salmon. Broil salmon
until deeply browned and centers
of fillets register 125 degrees (for
medium-rare), 8 to 12 minutes.
3. Add pear and cheddar to kale
mixture and toss to combine.
Serve with salmon.
Filets Mignons with Parsnip Puree
Serve this dish sprinkled with minced
fresh chives.
2 pounds parsnips, peeled and
sliced ¼ inch thick
2½ cups chicken broth, divided
11 tablespoons unsalted butter,
divided
2 teaspoons table salt, divided
2 tablespoons prepared
horseradish
4 (6- to 8-ounce) center-cut
filets mignons, 2 inches
thick, trimmed
½ teaspoon pepper
1 shallot, minced
½ cup red wine
1 teaspoon packed brown sugar
¼ teaspoon minced fresh thyme
1. Bring parsnips, 2 cups broth,
6 tablespoons butter, and
1 teaspoon salt to boil in large
saucepan over medium-high
heat. Cover; reduce heat to
medium-low; and cook, stirring
occasionally, until tender, about
20 minutes. Transfer parsnip mix-
ture to blender; add horseradish;
Shrimp Scampi with Zucchini Noodles
If possible, use smaller zucchini,
which have thinner skins and fewer
seeds. Sprinkle with chopped fresh
parsley and serve with lemon wedges.
3 pounds zucchini, trimmed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil, divided
1¾ teaspoons table salt, divided
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon cornstarch
1 pound large shrimp (26 to
30 per pound), peeled and
deveined
8 garlic cloves, sliced thin
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ cup bottled clam juice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter,
cut into ½-inch pieces
1. Adjust oven rack to middle
position and heat oven to
375 degrees. Using spiralizer,
cut zucchini into 1⁄8-inch-thick
noodles, then cut into 12-inch
lengths. Toss zucchini with
1 tablespoon oil and 1½ tea-
spoons salt on rimmed baking
and blend until smooth, about
1 minute, scraping down blender
jar as needed.
2. Meanwhile, pat steaks dry with
paper towels and sprinkle with
pepper and remaining 1 teaspoon
salt. Melt 1 tablespoon butter
in 12-inch nonstick skillet over
medium-high heat. Add steaks
and cook until browned and meat
registers 120 to 125 degrees,
4 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer
steaks to platter and wipe skillet
clean with paper towels.
3. Add 1 tablespoon butter and
shallot to skillet and cook over
medium heat until shallot is
softened, about 2 minutes. Add
wine and sugar and simmer
until reduced to glaze, about
3 minutes. Add remaining ½ cup
broth and steak juices from plat-
ter and simmer until reduced to
1⁄3 cup, about 3 minutes. Off heat,
whisk in thyme and remaining
3 tablespoons butter. Serve.
sheet and roast until zucchini
is softened, about 10 minutes.
Transfer zucchini to colander and
let drain.
2. Meanwhile, combine lemon
juice and cornstarch in bowl.
Sprinkle shrimp with remaining
¼ teaspoon salt. Heat remaining
1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and pep-
per flakes in 12-inch nonstick skil-
let over medium-low heat, stirring
occasionally, until garlic begins to
brown at edges, 3 to 5 minutes.
Add wine and clam juice, increase
heat to medium-high, and bring
to simmer. Add shrimp; cover;
and cook, stirring occasionally,
until shrimp are just opaque, 4 to
6 minutes. Transfer shrimp to
large bowl using slotted spoon.
3. Add lemon juice mixture to
skillet and cook over medium
heat until thickened, about
1 minute. Off heat, whisk in but-
ter. Transfer sauce and zucchini
to bowl with shrimp and toss to
combine. Serve.
ROASTED CHICKEN THIGHS WITH POTATOES AND GREEN BEANS TURKEY BURGERS WITH PICKLED CRANBERRIES

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 50 MINUTES DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES

BULGUR WITH ROASTED VEGETABLES, WHITE BEANS,

AND ARUGULA SALAD PEPPERONI PIZZA WITH BLUE CHEESE, PICKLED PEPPERS, AND HONEY

DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 1 HOUR DINNER TONIGHT / SERVES 4 / 45 MINUTES

 Turkey Burgers with Pickled Cranberries
Be sure to use 93 percent lean ground
turkey, not 99 percent fat-free ground
turkey breast, in this recipe or the
burgers will be tough. Top the burgers
with your favorite burger toppings,
such as thinly sliced red onion and
leaves of Bibb lettuce. We like to serve
these burgers with sweet potato fries.
4 ounces (1 cup) frozen
cranberries
¼ cup cider vinegar
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup ice
1 pound ground turkey
1 cup panko bread crumbs
4 ounces Monterey Jack
cheese, shredded (1 cup),
divided
½ cup mayonnaise, divided
1½ teaspoons poultry seasoning
½ teaspoon table salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
4 brioche buns, toasted
1 . Bring cranberries, vinegar, and
sugar to boil in small saucepan
over medium-high heat. Cook
until cranberries just begin to
Pepperoni Pizza with Blue Cheese, Pickled Peppers, and Honey
If the dough springs back in step 1,
let it rest for a few minutes and
then stretch it again. For more heat,
sprinkle the pizza with red pepper
flakes before serving.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
1 pound pizza dough, room
temperature
½ cup jarred marinara sauce
8 ounces whole-milk block
mozzarella cheese, shredded
(2 cups)
4 ounces blue cheese,
crumbled (1 cup)
2 ounces thinly sliced
pepperoni
1⁄3 cup thinly sliced jarred hot
cherry peppers
1 tablespoon honey
burst, about 2 minutes. Transfer
to heatproof bowl and stir in ice.
Refrigerate until needed.
2 . Combine turkey, panko, ½ cup
Monterey Jack, ¼ cup mayonnaise,
poultry seasoning, and salt in
bowl. Using your hands, pat turkey
mixture into four ¾-inch-thick
patties, about 4 inches in diameter.
Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet
over medium heat until shim-
mering. Transfer patties to skillet
and cook until well browned and
burgers register 160 degrees, 5 to
7 minutes per side. Top burgers
with remaining ½ cup Monterey
Jack; cover; and cook until cheese
is melted, about 1 minute. Transfer
burgers to plate.
3. Spread remaining ¼ cup
mayonnaise evenly over cut sides
of buns. Arrange burgers on bun
bottoms and use slotted spoon
to distribute pickled cranberries
on burgers. Cover with bun tops
and serve.
Bulgur with Roasted Vegetables, White Beans, and Arugula Salad
1. Adjust oven rack to low-
est position and heat oven to
500 degrees. Brush rimmed
baking sheet with oil. Press and
roll dough into 15 by 11-inch rect-
angle on lightly floured counter.
Transfer dough to prepared sheet.
Spread sauce evenly over top.
Sprinkle with mozzarella and blue
cheese. Top pizza with pepperoni
and cherry peppers.
2 . Bake until cheese is spotty
brown and crust is golden,
10 to 15 minutes, rotating sheet
halfway through baking. Transfer
pizza to wire rack and let cool
for 5 minutes. Drizzle honey over
pizza. Slice and serve.
Roasted Chicken Thighs with Potatoes and Green Beans
For a nonalcoholic version of this
recipe, substitute chicken broth for
the wine.
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes,
unpeeled, cut into ½-inch
pieces
1 pound green beans, trimmed
and cut into 2-inch lengths
2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
1½ tablespoons kosher salt,
divided
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh sage
1 teaspoon minced fresh
rosemary
1 teaspoon pepper, divided
8 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in
chicken thighs, trimmed
¼ cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
plus 1 tablespoon juice
1. Adjust oven rack to
upper-middle position and heat
oven to 450 degrees. Combine
potatoes, green beans, oil, 1 table-
spoon salt, garlic, sage, rosemary,
We like to serve these bowls topped
with chopped pitted kalamata olives.
10 ounces cherry tomatoes
1 red bell pepper, stemmed,
seeded, and cut into ¾-inch
pieces
1 small red onion, cut into
¾-inch pieces
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil,
divided
1¾ teaspoons table salt, divided,
plus salt for cooking bulgur
1 (15-ounce) can cannellini
beans, rinsed
1¼ cups medium-grind bulgur
1 tablespoon lemon juice
5 ounces (5 cups) baby
arugula
¾ cup plain whole-milk Greek
yogurt
2 tablespoons sambal oelek
1. Adjust oven rack to middle
position and heat oven to
450 degrees. Toss tomatoes,
bell pepper, onion, ¼ cup oil,
and 1 teaspoon salt together
and ½ teaspoon pepper in large
bowl. Microwave, covered, until
vegetables are just tender, 12 to
15 minutes, stirring once halfway
through microwaving. Transfer
mixture to 13 by 9-inch baking
dish and press into even layer.
2. Meanwhile, pat chicken dry
with paper towels. Sprinkle all
over with remaining 1½ tea-
spoons salt and ½ teaspoon
pepper. Place chicken, skin side
down, in 12-inch nonstick skillet.
Cook over medium-high heat
until skin is light golden brown,
about 10 minutes. Flip chicken
and cook until second side is well
browned, about 5 minutes.
3. Arrange chicken, skin side up,
on top of potato mixture. Off heat,
carefully stir wine and lemon zest
and juice into fat remaining in
skillet, then drizzle evenly over
chicken. Roast until chicken reg-
isters at least 175 degrees, 15 to
20 minutes. Serve.
on rimmed baking sheet. Roast
until vegetables are softened and
spotty brown, about 20 minutes.
Stir in beans and roast until
heated through, about 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, bring 2 quarts
water to boil in large saucepan.
Add bulgur and 1 teaspoon salt.
Reduce heat to medium-low and
simmer until tender, 6 to 10 min-
utes. Drain bulgur in fine-mesh
strainer and return to saucepan.
Stir in 2 tablespoons oil and
¼ teaspoon salt.
3. Whisk lemon juice, ¼ teaspoon
salt, and remaining 2 table-
spoons oil together in large bowl.
Add arugula and toss to coat.
Combine yogurt, sambal oelek,
3 tablespoons water, and remain-
ing ¼ teaspoon salt in second
bowl. Divide bulgur, roasted
vegetable mixture, and arugula
among individual bowls. Drizzle
with yogurt mixture and serve.
 Beet Dip
with Yogurt
and Tahini
This earthy, sweet, and vibrant dip will
brighten any table. by Amanda Luchtel

T A K I N G I N S P I R A T I O N from Aleppo pepper (mild dried chile

beet dips found in Middle Eastern flakes with a subtle fruity flavor)
cuisine and at restaurants and contribute heat and spice. Dried
specialty markets in the United mint adds a cooling note. Chilling
States—such as kiz güzeli (a the dip for 30 minutes allows the
Turkish dip made with beets, flavors to meld and the color to Roasting
yogurt, and garlic) and mutabbal deepen to a striking magenta. fresh beets
shamander (a Syrian dip featuring A sprinkle of fresh dill delivers results in the
most deeply
beets and tahini)—this bright dip contrasting color and freshness. hued dip.
combines shredded roasted beets This dip makes a colorful addi-
with thick, creamy Greek yogurt tion to a meze table, alongside
and nutty tahini. other Middle Eastern favorites BE ET DIP WIT H YO GURT AN D TAHIN I
Roasting beets concentrates such as pita bread, hummus, Serves 6 to 8 Total Time: 2¼ hours, plus 30 minutes resting
their flavor and sweetness, and baba ghanoush, and stuffed To ensure even cooking, look for beets of similar size—roughly 2 to
the rich yogurt helps round out grape leaves; pair it with fresh 3 inches in diameter. If you can’t find Aleppo pepper, you can substitute
their earthiness. Fresh lemon cucumbers or crispy pita chips ½ teaspoon of paprika plus ⅛ teaspoon of red pepper flakes. Serve this
juice and subtly bitter tahini bal- for dipping. Or spread it on a dip with cucumber slices; pita chips; or crackers, such as our Quick
ance the sweetness, while minced sandwich or in a pita pocket. Seeded Lavash Crackers on page 44.
fresh garlic, warm cumin, and
1¼ pounds red or golden beets, knife, 1¼ to 1½ hours. Care-
trimmed fully open packet and set beets
Substituting Precooked Beets 1 cup plain whole-milk Greek aside to cool completely, about
We prefer the balanced flavor that freshly roasted beets bring to this dip, yogurt 25 minutes. Rub off skins with
but the convenience of precooked beets can’t be overlooked. One pound 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive paper towels.
of precooked vacuum-packed beets or one (15-ounce) can of beets can oil, divided 2. Meanwhile, whisk yogurt,
be used in place of the raw beets; skip step 1 and drain off any liquid ¼ cup tahini ¼ cup oil, tahini, lemon juice, gar-
before shredding the beets. The color and flavor of the ¼ cup lemon juice (2 lemons) lic, mint, salt, Aleppo pepper, and
dip will vary slightly depending on which beets you use. 3 garlic cloves, minced cumin together in large bowl.
2 teaspoons dried mint 3. Shred cooled beets on large
CA NN ED 1½ teaspoons table salt holes of box grater or using
Canned beets are cooked in water, so the colorful juice and 1 teaspoon ground dried shredding disk of food processor.
much of the beets’ soluble sugar leaches out, leaving the Aleppo pepper, plus extra Stir beets into yogurt mixture
beets less sweet and more translucent. Canned beets will for seasoning and refrigerate for 30 minutes to
result in a lighter-colored dip with a slightly saltier, more acidic ¼ teaspoon ground cumin allow flavors to meld. (Dip can be
end product. If using canned beets, reduce the salt to 1 teaspoon and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
season to taste before serving. 4. Stir dip to recombine a
1. Adjust oven rack to middle nd season with salt and Aleppo
VACU UM- PACK ED position and heat oven to pepper to taste. Transfer to
Vacuum-packed beets are often cooked directly in the 350 degrees. Wrap beets in alu- serving bowl, drizzle with
pouch or steamed without extra water, so they retain their minum foil packet and place on remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and
sweetness and flavor. The concentrated flavor of these rimmed baking sheet. Roast until sprinkle with dill. Serve chilled
beets makes our dip taste slightly sweeter. beets offer no resistance when or at room temperature.
pierced through foil with paring

OCTO BE R/N OVE MBE R 2023 • CO O K’S COUNT RY 25


Klobásníky
These buttery, sausage-stuffed Texas Czech pastries are
so worth the effort. by Dawn Orsak
DRIVING EAST FROM my as a klobásník in Czech (usually
home in Austin to my birthplace of misnamed a sausage kolache by
Houston along US Route 77 and commercial bakeries) that may be
Interstate 10, there are almost the current darling.
as many billboards advertising Certainly thousands of klobás-
kolaches and klobásníky as there níky (the plural of klobásník) are
are Texas bluebonnets blooming sold daily across Texas and increas-
in the spring. However, in the ingly across the United States at
stretches between those billboards mom-and-pop shops and national
and in the surrounding counties are (but Texas-based) chains such as
small towns where Texas Czechs, The Kolache Factory and Shipley
including my family, are home Do-Nuts. Hungry commuters
baking a tastier, more traditional buy them to eat in the car or for
version of the pastry. office meetings, Saturday morning
Whether meat market barbe- sports practice, or Sunday morning
cue, hoppy beer, smoked sausages, church gatherings. In Austin, there
or kolaches, foods of Texas’s Czech are at least two dozen bakeries
community have been of particular serving them. Some are “artisanal”
interest in food media. But it is bakeries and some are chain estab-
the misunderstood pastry known lishments, but their offerings, with
26 COO K’S COU NTRY • O CTO BE R/ N OVEMBE R 2023
These handheld snacks
are like leveled-up
pigs in blankets.
fillings such as barbecued brisket
or sausage-egg-cheese, cannot be
called traditional.
The now-closed Village Bakery,
which opened in 1952 in the over-
whelmingly Czech town of West,
Texas, claimed to have invented the
klobásník and even trademarked
the name, but there are mentions
in Czech-language newspapers of
the pastry being made by home
cooks that predate the bakery by
decades. My great-aunts will tell
you they remember taking klobás-
níky out to the fields to eat on
breaks from picking cotton on their
family farms well before 1953.
A traditional klobásník, like
those portable lunches made by
my great-grandmother 80 years
Sausage Breakdown
1. Cut sausage ring in half, then cut
each half into 3 equal pieces.
2. Slice each piece of sausage in
half lengthwise.
3. Using paring knife, peel casing
from each piece of sausage.
ago, wraps soft, yeasty, milk- and
butter-enriched double-risen
dough around smoky, garlicky
homemade or Texas Czech meat
market–made sausage and is liber-
ally brushed with butter during
the baking process.
The dough absorbs the rich
flavor of the butter from the
outside and the smoky aroma
and fatty juiciness of the sausage
from the inside in a way that
distinguishes the finished product
from mass-produced, doughnut
shop “sausage kolaches.” Smoked
and fresh sausages are a hallmark
of Czech cuisine. Immigrants to
Texas brought recipes for a variety
of sausages, and their descendants
still make them, using every part
of a pig in different combinations.
Some versions include barley or
rice; some use head meat or offal
such as heart and liver. But the
sausage (“klobase” in Czech) inex-
tricably associated with klobásníky
is the most basic: generally a
1-pound, horseshoe-shaped link
of coarsely ground pork meat (or
pork and beef) flavored simply
with salt, garlic, pepper, and
sometimes paprika.
A meticulous cook “peels” the
casing off the sausage before slic-
ing it into pieces for klobásníky.
And Texas cooks do not skimp on
butter, buttering the pan, buttering
the rising dough balls and also but-
tering the finished pastries when
they come out of the oven.
Most often, Texas Czechs
would eat klobásník at a family
or community gathering, either
baking the pastries themselves or
picking up several dozen at a local
bakery for an extended family
Christmas party, funeral recep-
tion, or heritage group meeting.
For such events, klobásníky might
be one offering in a lunch spread
served alongside foods such as
chicken soup with homemade,
fine-cut noodles; pimento cheese
and chicken salad sandwiches; pick-
les; and sliced summer sausage.
Typical recipes in community
cookbooks make a batch of no
less than six dozen klobásníky,
ensuring plenty for historically
large Texas Czech families. As
successive generations in the
community have fewer children,
smaller families might make one
pan of klobásníky on the weekend,
wrap each klobásník individually
in freezer paper or plastic wrap,
and store them in a zipper-lock
bag in the freezer for their kids to
grab and microwave for breakfast.
This recipe makes one dozen but
can easily be multiplied for parties
or holidays.
Dawn Orsak is a fourth-generation
Texas Czech. She is the author of
the forthcoming cookbook, Kolach
Culture: Cooking in Texas Czech
Kitchens for University of Texas Press.
That’s a Wrap
1. Working with 1 dough ball at a
time, place ball seam side up on
counter. Using your fingertips, press
ball into 4 by 5-inch rectangle.
2. Place 1 piece of sausage cut side
up in center of dough, with long side
of sausage parallel to long side of
rectangle.
3. Bring edges of dough up and
around sausage and pinch seams to
seal, completely encasing sausage.
A True Texas Sausage
The smoked pork and beef
sausage sold by Prasek’s
Family Smokehouse in Texas is
based on their original Czech
family recipe and is traditional
in this recipe. It is available by
mail order at praseks.com.
KLOBÁSNÍKY (TEXAS
CZECH–STYLE SAUSAGE ROLLS)
Makes 12 rolls Total Time: 1½ hours,
plus 1½ hours rising
One envelope of instant yeast is
2¼ teaspoons. You can find Prasek’s
brand Smoked Pork and Beef
Sausage at H-E-B grocery stores
in Texas or online at praseks.com.
If unavailable, you can substitute
a 14- or 16-ounce link of kielbasa.
Removing the casing in step 3 will
work best with chilled sausage
(though you needn’t remove the
casing if you’re using kielbasa).
½ cup whole milk
4 tablespoons salted butter,
cut into 4 pieces and softened,
plus 2 tablespoons salted butter,
melted, divided
1 large egg plus 1 large yolk
2 tablespoons sugar
2¼ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise
yeast
½ teaspoon table salt
2¼ cups (11¼ ounces) all-purpose
flour
1 (1-pound) ring link Prasek’s
Smoked Pork and Beef Sausage,
chilled
1. Using stand mixer fitted with
whisk attachment, whisk milk,
softened butter, egg and yolk,
sugar, yeast, and salt on medium
speed until thoroughly combined,
about 1 minute (some small lumps
of butter will remain). Fit stand
mixer with dough hook. Add flour
and mix on low speed until no dry
flour remains, about 2 minutes,
scraping down bowl as needed.
Increase speed to medium and
knead until dough is smooth and
elastic and clears sides of bowl but
sticks to bottom, about 3 minutes.
2. Transfer dough to lightly
greased counter and knead by
hand to form smooth, round ball,
about 30 seconds. Place dough
seam side down in lightly greased
large bowl, cover tightly with plas-
tic wrap, and let rise until doubled
in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
3. Meanwhile, cut sausage into
2 equal lengths. Cut each length
into 3 equal pieces, each about
OCTOBE R/ NOVE MBE R
3 inches long. Slice each piece in
half lengthwise to form 12 equal
pieces. Using paring knife, peel
casing from sausage pieces; discard
casing pieces and set sausage aside.
4. Adjust oven rack to middle
position and heat oven to
375 degrees. Grease 13 by 9-inch
baking pan with 2 teaspoons
melted butter. Transfer dough to
lightly greased counter, divide into
12 equal pieces (about 1⅔ ounces
each), and cover loosely with plas-
tic. Working with 1 piece of dough
at a time (keep remaining pieces
covered), form dough into rough
ball. Place ball seam side down on
counter, then loosely cup dough
with your palm and roll in circles
against counter to form smooth,
tight ball. Cover with plastic wrap.
5. Working with 1 dough ball at
a time, place ball seam side up
on counter. Using your finger-
tips, press ball into 4 by 5-inch
rectangle. Place 1 piece of sausage
cut side up in center of dough, with
long side of sausage parallel to long
side of rectangle. Bring edges of
dough up and around sausage and
pinch seams to seal, completely
encasing sausage. Arrange shaped
klobásníky seam side down in
3 rows of four in prepared pan.
Brush klobásníky with 2 teaspoons
melted butter, cover with plastic,
and let rise again until puffy, 30 to
45 minutes.
6. Remove plastic and bake
until tops of klobásníky are light
golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes,
rotating pan halfway through
baking. Brush with remaining
2 teaspoons melted butter and let
cool for 10 minutes. Serve.
TO MAKE A HEA D
Klobásníky can be stored in
airtight container at room
temperature for up to 2 days or
frozen. To freeze, wrap fully cooled
individual klobásníky in plastic
wrap and freeze in zipper-lock bag
for up to 3 months; thaw before
reheating. To reheat, wrap individ-
ual klobásníky in paper towels and
microwave for about 30 seconds.
2023 • COOK’S COU N TRY 27

Flash-Marinated
Skirt Steaks
Loads of flavor, fast.
O N E G R E AT T H I N G about steak
is that, if you buy quality meat, you
can easily make a homemade dinner
that rivals what you can get in a
restaurant. Here, fast-cooking skirt
steak gets a quick soak in a potent
marinade before being cooked in a
skillet. It’s delicious and truly easy.
Well-marbled skirt steak is
perfect for marinating. Marinades
do most of their work on the
exterior of meats, and here, skirt
steak has a distinct advantage. It’s
a thin cut with large muscle fibers
that are fitted together loosely,
creating a ridged surface that
equates to a high ratio of exterior
to interior—it’s a thin steak with
lots of surface area. Unlike what
happens when you marinate thick
steaks, if the exterior of skirt is well
seasoned, the whole steak tastes
well seasoned. In the case of these
recipes, just 10 minutes is plenty of
time for these potent marinades to
impart their flavor.
28 CO O K’S COU NT RY • O CTO BE R/ NOV E MBE R
The recipe shown
here is the variation
with gochujang, sesame,
and scallion.
by Matthew Fairman
But using a wet marinade on a
thin steak presents a hurdle. Any
excess moisture on the steak has
to evaporate before the surface
can reach the higher temperatures
needed for flavorful browning. But
the thin steak cooks quickly, leaving
little time for the surface to dry, heat
up, and achieve flavorful browning
and caramelization.
These recipes work in two simple
solutions. First, patting the excess
marinade off the steak before searing
it in a nonstick pan on the stovetop
keeps the meat from steaming when
it hits the hot pan, while leaving
plenty of bold marinade behind
to result in flavorful steak. Second,
the marinades for both versions stra-
tegically include sweet ingredients—
balsamic and honey in one and
gochujang in the other. The sugar
in these ingredients aids in quick
browning, resulting in skillet steaks
with deeply caramelized surfaces
reminiscent of those of grilled steaks.
2023
FLAS H-M ARI N ATED SK IRT
ST EAKS WI TH BALSA MI C,
BLAC K PE PP ER, AND TH YME
Serves 4 to 6
Total Time: 45 minutes
It is difficult to take an accurate
temperature on skirt steaks
because they are so thin; if you
have trouble getting a tem-
perature reading, rely on the
times in the recipe. See “The
Skinny on Skirt” for informa-
tion on shopping for skirt steak.
Depending on the length of
your whole skirt steaks, you
will get anywhere from eight to
10 pieces once the steaks are cut
into 3- to 4-inch sections.
2 pounds outside skirt steak,
3 to 4 inches wide and ½ to
1 inch thick, trimmed
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon chopped fresh
thyme, divided
2 teaspoons pepper
¼ teaspoon table salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil,
divided
1. Slice steak with grain into
3- to 4-inch-long steaks. Whisk
vinegar, soy sauce, olive oil,
garlic, honey, 2 teaspoons thyme,
pepper, and salt together in
large bowl. Transfer 2 table-
spoons marinade to second
bowl; set aside. Place steaks in
first bowl with marinade and
toss to coat. Let sit at room
The Skinny on Skirt
Skirt steaks are sometimes labeled as “inside” or “outside” skirt steak.
We prefer the more tender outside cut, which measures 3 to 4 inches
wide and ½ to 1 inch thick. If you can find only the inside cut, which
typically measures 5 to 7 inches wide and ¼ to ½ inch thick, halve the
steaks lengthwise before cutting them into smaller steaks in step 1.
OUTSIDE CUT
temperature for 10 minutes.
Remove steaks from bowl, pat
dry with paper towels, and place
on plate; discard marinade.
2. Set wire rack in rimmed
baking sheet. Heat 1 tablespoon
vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick
skillet over medium-high heat
until shimmering. Add half of
steaks and cook until browned
on both sides, about 2 minutes
per side.
3. Continue to cook, flipping
steaks about every 30 seconds,
until steaks are well browned and
register 130 to 135 degrees, 2 to
4 minutes longer. Transfer steaks
to prepared rack, tent with alumi-
num foil, and let rest for at least
5 minutes. Wipe skillet clean and
repeat with remaining 1 table-
spoon vegetable oil and steaks.
4. Slice steaks thin against grain
and transfer to platter. Pour any
accumulated juices from cutting
board and sheet over steaks.
Drizzle with reserved marinade
and sprinkle with remaining
1 teaspoon thyme. Serve.
FLAS H - MA R INAT E D S K IRT
ST EAKS WITH G OCHUJA N G,
SESAM E , AND SCAL L IO N
Increase soy sauce to 5 table-
spoons. Omit vinegar, olive oil,
honey, thyme, pepper, and salt.
Add 1½ tablespoons gochujang,
1½ tablespoons toasted sesame
oil, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil,
and 2 teaspoons grated fresh
ginger to marinade. Sprinkle
sliced steaks with 1 thinly sliced
scallion and 1 teaspoon toasted
sesame seeds before serving.
IN SI D E CU T
 Shaved
Caulif lower
Salad
Don’t cook your cauliflower; shave it.
by Amanda Luchtel
S H AV E D CA U L I F L OW E R
salads are increasingly ubiquitous
in the culinary world and for
good reasons: The mild flavor of
cauliflower is a perfect canvas for
bold dressings, and the thin pieces
are delicate enough to enjoy raw.
Large chunks of raw cauliflower
in a salad can be firm and waxy,
leaving the cauliflower undersea-
soned and preventing the salad
from feeling cohesive. Shaving
the cauliflower instead results in
pieces that soften and make for a
more harmonious salad.
You don’t need any special
equipment, such as a mandoline or
a food processor, to shave the cau-
liflower. Breaking the cauliflower
into large florets and slicing the
florets and core thin with a chef’s
knife yields similar results (see
“How to Shave Cauliflower”).
The goal is to get the thinnest
pieces possible and let the dressing
do the rest of the work.
A thick, creamy dressing
evenly coats and sticks to the
cauliflower pieces better than a
thin one. Blending Dijon mustard
and Medjool dates (which add
balancing sweet, caramel notes)
along with olive oil, white wine
vinegar, and seasonings, gives
How to Shave Cauliflower
1. Trim outer leaves of cauliflower and
cut stem flush with bottom of head.
body to the dressing so that it
clings to the cauliflower.
A few finishing touches are all
that’s needed for an elegant salad.
Parsley adds brightness and tarra-
gon a hint of licorice. Celery slices
provide crunch, while delicate
celery leaves boost the flavor. Add-
ing toasted pistachios just before
serving gives more crunch and
nutty richness, and shaved Pecori-
no Romano cheese adds piquant
pops of flavor. After one bite of this
salad, you’ll be convinced of raw
cauliflower’s ability to transform
into something divine.
SHAV E D CAULI FLOWE R
SA L AD WI TH DATE-DIJON
D R ESS IN G
Serves 6 Total Time: 25 minutes,
plus 30 minutes resting
After trimming the leaves and stem
from the cauliflower in step 1, you
should have about 1½ pounds of
cauliflower. We prefer to use the
tender inner ribs and yellow leaves
of the celery, known as the heart,
in this recipe. To toast the pista-
chios, cook them in a dry skillet
over medium heat, stirring often,
until they are lightly browned and
fragrant, 3 to 5 minutes.
2. Place cauliflower stem side up.
Cut stems vertically around core to
remove large florets.
1 head cauliflower (2 pounds)
2 ounces pitted Medjool dates,
coarsely chopped (1⁄3 cup)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons water
1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled
1 teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon pepper
2 celery ribs, sliced thin on bias,
plus ½ cup celery leaves
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
tarragon
2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese,
shaved with vegetable peeler
½ cup shelled pistachios,
toasted and chopped
3. Thinly slice florets lengthwise and
core crosswise.
OCTOBE R/ NOV EM BER
1. Trim outer leaves of cauliflower
and cut stem flush with bottom of
head. Place cauliflower stem side
up on cutting board. Cut stems
around core to remove large (2- to
3-inch) florets. Slice each floret
lengthwise as thin as possible
(about ⅛ inch thick). Slice core
crosswise as thin as possible. (You
should have about 6½ cups thinly
sliced cauliflower.) Transfer cauli-
flower to large bowl.
2. Process dates, oil, vinegar, mus-
tard, water, garlic, salt, and pepper
in blender until mostly smooth
with some finely chopped dates
remaining, about 1 minute, scrap-
ing down sides of blender jar as
needed. Transfer dressing to bowl
with cauliflower.
3. Add celery ribs and leaves,
parsley, and tarragon to cauliflower
mixture and toss gently to com-
bine. Refrigerate until cauliflower
is slightly softened, at least 30 min-
utes. (Cauliflower mixture can be
refrigerated for up to 12 hours.)
4. Fold Pecorino and pistachios
into cauliflower mixture. Season
with salt and pepper to taste.
Transfer salad to platter and serve.
2023 • COO K’S COUN TRY 29
 Crisped lengths of
scallion greens add
flavor and texture as
a garnish.

Shanghai
Scallion
Oil Noodles
30 CO OK’S COU NTRY • O CTO BE R/N OV EMBER 2023
 Scallions go use; according to Li, the oil can be
used to dress anything from more
from sidekick to noodles to steamed chicken to
fried eggs.
star in these “This dish is very accessible to
savory-sweet noodles. make at home,” said Li. “I always
know there’s one thing I can
by Kelly Song
fall back on and it’s going to be
good. It’s my version of easy mac
and cheese.”
S
CALLION OIL NOODLES
are a Shanghainese staple Once the scallion whites are
that are happily enjoyed in many silky and the oil is aromatic, dark
environments: They are inhaled soy sauce comes in to do the
beside street carts, slurped up heavy lifting. Its thick texture
at fancy restaurants, and tossed gives the dish its signature dark,
together at home. The simple glossy appearance. A touch of
dish’s mass appeal, which gains light soy sauce, which is thin-
more traction every day in the ner and brighter, adds additional
United States, comes as no savoriness. A rich, glazy sauce is a
surprise; springy noodles dressed mark of excellence in Shanghai-
with a combination of aromatic nese cuisine; chefs often strive for
oil, rich soy sauce, and “nong you chi jiang”
sugar form a whole in their dishes, which
that is far greater—and A rich, glazy translates to “rich with
tastier—than the sum sauce is oil, red with sauce.”
of its parts. a mark of Shanghainese dishes
To better understand also often lean slightly
excellence in
the global craze, I sweet; here, a gener-
Shanghainese
consulted my colleague ous amount of sugar
Valerie Sizhe Li, who cuisine . . . mingles with the soy
devoured countless sauce to create a pleas-
bowls of this dish grow- ing salty-sweet balance.
ing up in Shanghai: “I had this dish Cooked fresh noodles, which
so often, I didn’t even think about have a nice chewy texture, are then
it until I moved away from home added to the wok and tossed to
and realized I didn’t have it at arm’s coat with the sauce. The noodles
reach anymore,” said Li. “As a can be served on their own or
meat lover, it’s one of my favorite dressed with an array of toppings.
dishes that doesn’t involve meat. At bustling Shanghainese eateries,
It’s slightly sweet and has a super diners customize their bowls with
umami-rich flavor, and the noodles a spread of self-serve toppings:
have a chewy and tender texture. red-braised pork chops, stir-fried
Everything is just so satisfying.” ground pork, blanched bok choy,
Scallion oil noodles, as the mustard greens, or crispy fried
name implies, rely on an infused eggs. As an ode to the traditional
oil to dress the noodles. Here, version, and one of Li’s personal
scallions (first the greens—which favorite toppings, we dress our
are crisped, removed, and added noodles with crispy scallion greens,
back as a garnish before serv- which are shallow-fried in the wok
ing—and then the whites) are (before the rest of the dish is built)
slowly simmered in peanut oil, until dark brown and shatteringly
with shallots and ginger added for crisp. The result is a symphony
extra flavor. If desired, the scallion of textures, coupled with a rich,
oil can be made in large batches savory sauce that will have you
and stored in the fridge for later making this dish again and again.
SH AN G HAI SCA LLI ON OI L N OODLES
Serves 4 to 6 Total Time: 1 hour
Look for fresh, raw wheat noodles (without egg), preferably a Chinese
brand, that are about the thickness of cooked spaghetti; thinner noodles
(the thickness of cooked thin spaghetti or thinner) will not work here.
Fresh Korean or Japanese wheat noodles of the same thickness can also
be used. Other traditional toppings include crispy fried eggs or blanched
baby bok choy.
3. Meanwhile, heat oil and
¼ cup light soy sauce
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce scallion greens in 14-inch wok
5 teaspoons sugar or 12-inch nonstick skillet over
15–18 scallions (6 ounces), white medium-high heat and cook,
and green parts separated stirring constantly, until most scal-
1 (1-inch) piece ginger, peeled lions are browned and crispy, 8 to
1 pound fresh Chinese wheat 10 minutes. Off heat, use slotted
noodles spoon to transfer scallion greens
2⁄3 cup peanut or vegetable oil to small bowl; sprinkle with salt
1⁄8 teaspoon table salt and set aside.
1 shallot, halved and sliced thin 4. Add shallot, scallion whites,
and ginger to oil remaining in wok
1. Combine light soy sauce, dark and cook over medium-low heat,
soy sauce, and sugar in small stirring often, until scallion whites
bowl; set aside. Halve scallion and shallot are golden and wilted,
whites lengthwise, then slice into 11 to 13 minutes.
1½-inch segments. Slice green 5. Stir soy sauce mixture to
parts into 1½-inch segments; recombine and add to scallion
reserve white and green parts mixture in wok. Cook, stirring
separately. Slice ginger crosswise often, until sugar is dissolved and
into thin rounds. Stack rounds and sauce is rapidly bubbling, 1 to
slice into thin matchsticks. 2 minutes. Add noodles and toss
2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in until evenly coated in sauce and
large pot. Add noodles and cook, heated through, 2 to 3 minutes.
stirring often, until just tender. Transfer noodles to serving
Drain noodles, rinse well, and bowls and top with scallion
drain again; set aside. greens. Serve.
Ingredient Spotlight
C HIN ESE WH E AT N OO DLES LIGHT DA RK SOY
We developed this recipe using SOY SAUC E SAU CE
Twin Marquis Thin Shanghai Style Light soy sauce is thin and very
Plain Noodles, but any fresh, salty. Dark soy sauce (lao chou)
eggless noodles of a similar size has a thicker texture, darker color,
(about the thickness of cooked and sweeter flavor.
spaghetti when raw) will work here.
O CTOBER /NOVE MB ER 2023 • CO O K’S COUN TRY 31
 Shoof ly
Pie
We baked 50 pies to get this Pennsylvania
Dutch classic just right. by Mark Huxsoll
I C A N S T I L L R E M E M B E R my
first encounter, as a 6-year-old,
with a gooey, molasses-heavy
slice of shoofly pie. It made a
mess of my shirt and immedi-
ately became one of my favorite
things to eat. The pie has a long
history; according to William
Woys Weaver (see “A Pie With
Punch”), shoofly pie evolved in
the 1880s from the 1876 centen-
nial cake created in Philadelphia
to commemorate 100 years of
American independence.
Shoofly pie has a pastry crust
and a bittersweet, custardy filling
made from flour, brown sugar,
butter, lots of molasses, and egg,
all accented with warm spices.
There are two distinct styles
eaten in Pennsylvania Dutch
Country. The dry-bottom style
has a moist cake-like texture
throughout. The wet-bottom
style has a spectrum of tex-
tures beginning with its gooey
namesake “wet bottom” above
the crust, a cakey layer in the
middle, and a crown of buttery
crumbs. While both versions
are unequivocally delicious, the
wet-bottom style is the one that
is more popular today and is
rooted in my memory and thus
guided my recipe development.
I started my version with
the foundation, the crust. With
such a moist, heavy filling, it’s
important that the crust be
crisp and sturdy. Also important
is a dough that is easy to work
with and doesn’t tear easily—no
rips or patches. We love the
flavor of pie crust made with
butter; for increased malle-
ability and ease of rolling, I
replaced just 2 tablespoons of
the butter with sour cream,
which makes for a sturdier, less
32 COOK’S COU N TRY • O CTOB ER /N OVEMB ER
The distinct gooey
layer sitting atop the crust
makes this a wet-bottom
style shoofly pie.
fragile dough that bakes into a
buttery-tasting crust. Doughs
for shoofly pie are often lightly
sweetened; after testing various
amounts of granulated sugar,
I landed on 1½ teaspoons for
just a hint of sweetness (and
enhanced browning).
The simple filling gets most
of its flavor from molasses,
which is thinned with boiling
water (and augmented with a
beaten egg for structure). A bit
of baking soda mixed into the
water lightens the texture of
the heavy filling (the soda is
activated by the acidic molasses),
and some of the crumb-topping
mixture (flour, sugar, butter, and
spices) gets whisked in to give
the filling enough body to set up
its delicious layers as it bakes.
This pie is enjoyed in
homes, truck stops, and diners
all across Dutch Country as a
dessert but more commonly
for breakfast, best served warm
with a steaming cup of strong
coffee. Do yourself a favor and
treat yourself to this classic
pie—morning, noon, or night.
Avoid the Slump
Gently press on protruding crimped
points of dough so they hook over
edge of pie plate.
2023
 SHO OF LY PI E
Serves 8 Total Time: 1¾ hours, plus 2 hours chilling and cooling
Do not use blackstrap molasses; its intense flavor will overwhelm the other flavors. Our favorite molasses is
Brer Rabbit All Natural Unsulphured Molasses Mild Flavor. For an accurate measurement of boiling water,
bring a kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. We developed this recipe using our
winning metal pie plate, Williams-Sonoma Goldtouch Nonstick Pie Dish. You can use a glass pie plate, but
browning on the crust may be inconsistent. To make this pie in a disposable aluminum pan, place a baking
sheet in the oven while it is preheating and then bake the pie on the preheated sheet.

C RUST 1. FOR THE CRUST: Combine fingers. Gently press on protruding

3 tablespoons ice water
2 tablespoons sour cream
1¼ cups (6¼ ounces) all-purpose
flour
1½ teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon table salt
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut
into ½-inch pieces and chilled
F ILL ING
¾ cup (3¾ ounces) all-purpose
flour
½ cup packed (3½ ounces) brown
sugar
1 teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves
1⁄8 teaspoon ground ginger
1⁄8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut
into ½-inch pieces and chilled
1 cup molasses
1 large egg, beaten
1 teaspoon baking soda
¾ cup boiling water
A Pie with Punch
According to William Woys Weaver,
a Pennsylvania Dutch culinary
historian, shoofly pie is named
after the famous boxing mule,
Shoofly, who
The toured Dutch
American Country as a
Table traveling circus
act in the late
19th century. The mule (named
after a popular Civil War–era song,
“Shoo Fly, Don’t Bother Me”) was
so celebrated in the region that a
popular brand of molasses in Philadelphia renamed itself after the punchy animal.
Since molasses is the primary flavor ingredient in the pie, it follows that the pie
was named “shoofly.”
Photo: William Woys Weaver
ice water and sour cream in bowl.
Process flour, sugar, and salt in
food processor until combined,
about 5 seconds. Scatter butter
over top and pulse until butter
pieces are no larger than peas,
about 10 pulses. Add ice water
mixture and pulse until dough
forms clumps and no dry flour
remains, about 12 pulses, scraping
down sides of bowl as needed.
2. Transfer dough to counter and
knead briefly until dough comes
together. Form dough into 5-inch
disk, pressing any cracked edges
back together. Wrap in plastic
wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
(Wrapped dough can be refriger-
ated for up to 2 days or frozen
for up to 1 month. If frozen,
let dough thaw completely on
counter before rolling.)
3. Let chilled dough sit on
counter to soften slightly before
rolling, about 10 minutes. Roll
dough into 12-inch circle
on lightly floured coun-
ter. Loosely roll dough
around rolling pin and
gently unroll onto 9-inch
pie plate, letting excess
dough hang over edge.
Ease dough into plate
by gently lifting edge of
dough with your hand
while pressing into plate
bottom and corners with
your other hand.
4. Trim overhanging
dough to ½ inch beyond
lip of plate. Tuck over-
hang under itself; folded
edge should be flush with
edge of plate. Crimp
dough evenly around
edge of plate using your
crimped edge so it overhangs edge
of plate by about ¼ inch. Wrap
dough-lined plate loosely in plastic
wrap and refrigerate until dough is
well chilled, about 1 hour.
5. FO R THE FI LLIN G: Adjust
oven rack to lowest position and
heat oven to 425 degrees. Pulse
flour, sugar, salt, cinnamon,
cloves, ginger, and nutmeg in food
processor until combined, about
3 pulses. Add butter and pulse
until mixture has texture of fine
crumbs, about 20 pulses. Reserve
¼ cup for topping.
6. Whisk molasses and egg
together in large bowl. Stir baking
soda into boiling water in liquid
measuring cup until dissolved.
Whisking constantly, slowly
pour boiling water mixture into
molasses mixture and whisk until
smooth. Whisk in remaining flour
mixture until smooth. Pour filling
into chilled pie shell.
7. Sprinkle reserved flour mixture
over molasses mixture. Bake
pie until crust is light golden,
about 10 minutes. Reduce oven
temperature to 350 degrees and
continue to bake until center of
pie is just set and filling in center
of pie registers between 200 and
210 degrees, 30 to 35 minutes
longer. Transfer pie to wire rack
and let cool until just warm, about
1 hour. Slice and serve.
TO MAKE A HEA D
Pie can be stored, wrapped in
plastic wrap, at room tempera-
ture for up to 7 days. To serve,
place pie in 350-degree oven until
warmed through, 5 to 10 minutes.

OCTOBE R /NOVEM BE R 2023 • COOK’S COU NTRY 33

 Applesauce Spice Cake
with Brown Sugar Icing
With its rich, caramel-like topping, this buttery-sweet,
lightly spiced cake is sure to please. by Jessica Rudolph

BAKING WITH APPLESAUCE
is nothing new: A humble, afford-
able pantry staple, applesauce has
been adding sweetness, moisture,
and structure to baked goods for
decades (see “Baking with Apple-
sauce, a Patriotic Duty”). For
those who grew up with apple-
sauce cakes, this one is a buttery
reminder of those nostalgic treats.
And for those who didn’t, well,
let me introduce you to your new
favorite every-occasion cake.
This recipe contains a whopping
2 cups of applesauce, making for an
ultramoist 13 by 9-inch cake that
stays soft for days. The applesauce
imparts a subtle fruitiness, but it
APP L ESAU CE S P IC E CAKE W IT H BROW N SUGAR I CI N G
Serves 12 to 16 Total Time: 1¼ hours, plus 2 hours cooling
The brown sugar icing will harden shortly after the confectioners’ sugar is
stirred in, so work quickly to spread it on the cake and sprinkle on the
doesn’t wallop you with apple fla-
vor, so the cake takes well to other
flavor enhancers: Brown sugar adds
a caramelly depth, a heavy pour
of vanilla contributes floral notes,
and a host of spices brings a classic
autumnal warmth.
The quick batter uses a simple
stir-together method. The result-
ing cake is moist and plush, with
a delicate sweetness, and would
be excellent in a brunch spread, as
an afternoon snack, or as a light
dessert, maybe with a dusting of
powdered sugar or a dollop of
whipped cream. But if you want to
root this cake firmly in dessert ter-
ritory, a richer topping is needed.
Cream cheese frosting and
confectioners’ sugar glaze are
both tasty options, but this brown
sugar icing is next-level delicious.
BAKING WITH APPLESAUCE,
It’s essentially made by whisking
A PATRIOTIC DUTY
confectioners’ sugar into a butter-
President Woodrow Wilson
scotch sauce (brown sugar, butter,
established the U.S. Food Admin-
heavy cream, and salt cooked until
istration in 1917, shortly after
syrupy), resulting in a thick, fudgy
the United States entered World
confection reminiscent of pralines
War I. Headed by Herbert Hoover,
or penuche. It’s thicker than a glaze
the administration monitored
but gooier than a frosting, sets with
distribution and encouraged
a delightfully crackly crust, and is
conservation of food in order
the ideal salty-sweet counterpoint
to support the war efforts. The
to the fluffy cake underneath.
administration published adver-
A final smattering of toasted pecans
tisements stating “Food Will Win
adds welcome crunch, the perfect
the War” and implored civilians
finishing touch.
to plant victory gardens at home;
clean their plates at mealtimes;
and conserve precious ingredi-
medium bowl. Whisk applesauce,
ents such
melted butter, sugar, eggs, and The as sugar,
vanilla together in large bowl. Add
flour mixture to applesauce mixture American fat, meat,

nuts before it sets. Toast the pecans on a rimmed baking sheet in a
350-degree oven until fragrant, about 5 minutes. This recipe can be made
with store-bought or homemade applesauce; see our recipe for Brown
Sugar Applesauce on page 41.
CA KE
2½ cups (12½ ounces)
all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1⁄8 teaspoon ground cloves
2 cups applesauce
16 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted and cooled slightly
1 cup packed (7 ounces) light
brown sugar
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
TO PPI NG
1 cup packed (7 ounces) light
brown sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon table salt
¾ cup (3 ounces) confectioners’
sugar, sifted
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup pecans, toasted and
chopped
1 . FOR TH E CA KE: Adjust oven
rack to middle position and heat
oven to 350 degrees. Spray 13 by
9-inch baking pan with vegetable
oil spray.
2 . Whisk flour, baking powder,
baking soda, cinnamon, salt, gin-
ger, nutmeg, and cloves together in
and whisk until just combined. Table and
wheat,
3. Transfer batter to prepared
which were urgently needed for
pan and smooth top with rub-
soldiers. Consequently, many
ber spatula. Bake until toothpick
cookbooks were published
inserted in center of cake comes
shortly thereafter with clever,
out clean, 30 to 35 minutes, rotat-
economical ideas for recipes
ing pan halfway through baking.
made without scarce ingredients.
Transfer pan to wire rack and let
In one such cookbook, Everyday
cool completely, about 2 hours.
Foods in War Time (1918), author
4. FOR THE TO PPING: Com-
Mary Swartz Rose states “[t]he
bine brown sugar, butter, cream,
patriotic housewife finds her little
and salt in medium saucepan. Cook
domestic boat sailing in unchart-
over medium-high heat, whisking
ed waters” and provides guidance
often, until mixture is thickened
and recipes for wartime cooking,
and large bubbles burst on surface,
including one for applesauce
3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat
cake that uses no eggs and only a
and let cool for 10 minutes. Whisk
small amount of butter and sugar.
in confectioners’ sugar and vanilla
until smooth, about 1 minute.
Working quickly, spread icing
evenly over cooled cake. Sprinkle
pecans over icing. Serve. (Iced cake
can be covered with plastic wrap
and stored at room temperature for
up to 3 days.)

34 COOK’S COU N TRY • OCTOB ER/ NOVE MB ER 2023

 Brown sugar icing and
chopped pecans add
elegance to this
simple cake.

OCTOBE R /NOVE MBE R 2023 • COOK’S COU NTRY 35

 I N STA N T POT
Instant Pot Beef Ragu
All the long-cooked flavor in less time.
M E AT Y, S A V O R Y beef ragu
served over pasta is a crowd-
pleasing dinner, but making it can
take half a day. This is fine for a
leisurely weekend in the kitchen,
but what if you want beef ragu on a
weeknight? An Instant Pot (electric
pressure cooker/multicooker) can
take the long cooking time down to
just 45 minutes without sacrificing
the long-simmered flavor.
Start with beef chuck-eye roast,
a cut we use for pot roast and beef
stew because it becomes tender
when cooked for a long time (or
a short time under pressure). Cut
the large roast into 2- to 3-inch
36 CO OK’S COU N TRY • O CTOBE R /N OV E MBER
chunks to reduce the cooking time.
Then, brown just half the beef to
create fond (flavorful browned bits)
in the pot, while saving time from
having to brown all the meat. Set
the browned beef aside while you
begin to build the sauce in the pot.
Sauté chopped onion and car-
rot in the rendered beef fat plus
some olive oil. To build flavor, add
tomato paste, generous amounts
of garlic and anchovies, and dried
oregano. Once the vegetables are
softened and browned and the
mixture is fragrant, stir in a little
red wine to deglaze the pot,
releasing the bits of fond and
2023
This dish only
looks like it took
all day to make.
by Lawman Johnson
dissolving them so that they
incorporate into the sauce. Tie it
all together with canned crushed
tomatoes, which have just the right
consistency to make a thick sauce.
Nestle both the browned and
unbrowned beef chunks into the
sauce and add one last ingredient:
a Parmesan rind for savory flavor.
As everything cooks under pres-
sure for just 45 minutes, the meat
will become tender and the flavors
will deepen. While the ragu cooks,
you’ll have time to boil some pasta
to serve with it.
To finish the ragu, simply mash
the meat with a potato masher to
break it into bite-size pieces and
stir in some fresh parsley. Toss it
with pasta, and, of course, have
some grated Parmesan on hand
for serving. Now you can have
rich, savory beef ragu any night
you want.
INSTAN T P OT B EEF RAGU
Serves 8 to 12
Total Time: 1½ hours
For a spicier dish, use the larger
amount of red pepper flakes. This
recipe yields about 8 cups of sauce
(enough to sauce 2 pounds of
pasta). Serve with grated Parmesan.
3 pounds boneless beef chuck-eye
roast, trimmed, cut into
2- to 3-inch pieces
1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 onion, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
3 tablespoons tomato paste
6 garlic cloves, minced
4 anchovy fillets, minced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
½-1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ cup red wine
1 (28-ounce) can crushed
tomatoes
1 ounce Parmesan cheese rind
(optional)
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
1. Pat beef dry with paper towels
and sprinkle with 1½ teaspoons salt
and pepper. Using highest sauté
function, heat 2 tablespoons oil in
Instant Pot until just smoking. Add
half of beef and brown on all sides,
6 to 8 minutes; transfer browned
and unbrowned beef to bowl.
2. Add remaining 2 tablespoons
oil to fat left in pot. Add onion,
carrot, and remaining 1½ tea-
spoons salt and cook, stirring
occasionally, until vegetables are
softened and lightly browned, 4 to
6 minutes. Stir in tomato paste,
garlic, anchovies, oregano, and
pepper flakes and cook, stirring

often, until mixture is fragrant and
deeply browned, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Stir in wine, scraping up any
browned bits, and cook until
nearly evaporated, about 1 minute.
Stir in tomatoes and Parmesan
rind, if using. Nestle beef into pot,
along with any accumulated juices.
4. Lock lid into place and close
pressure-release valve. Select high
pressure-cook function and cook
for 45 minutes. Turn off Instant
Pot and quick-release pressure.
Carefully remove lid, allowing
steam to escape away from you.
5. Discard Parmesan rind, if using.
Using potato masher, mash beef
in pot until broken into bite-size
pieces. Season with salt and pep-
per to taste. Stir in parsley. Serve.
(Ragu can be refrigerated for up to
3 days.)
Lots of Flavor, Half the Work
You need to brown only half the
meat, as a little fond (the browned
bits left behind) goes a long way.
UN B ROW NE D B ROW N E D
ME AT
ME AT
PLE NT Y O F FO N D
The word “ditalini”
means “small thim-
bles” in Italian.
Pasta e Fagioli
Italian American comfort food perfectly
portioned for two. by Lawman Johnson
A B O W L O F PA S TA e fagioli, a
hearty Italian American pasta and
bean soup, takes comfort food to
a higher level. It’s rich, warm, and
hearty—the kind of dinner you
curl up with on the couch. It’s also
delicious and easy to make. And
while you could make a huge pot of
it, if you just want enough for two,
it’s easy to pare it down. But don’t
worry: Cooking for fewer people
doesn’t mean sacrificing taste.
Begin by building a soup base
teeming with flavor. Combine
finely chopped onion and carrot
in a saucepan along with a little
pancetta, and cook everything
until the vegetables soften and
the pork fat is well rendered. To
further ensure a flavorful founda-
tion, add tomato paste for a savory
richness, along with garlic for
depth and red pepper flakes for
added heat.
Then, to give this soup its
signature hearty feel, add one
can of creamy white beans with
their liquid, and stir in 2 cups of
chicken broth to transform these
simple ingredients into a bona
fide soup. A short simmer affords
the flavors a chance to meld. For
convenience, cook the pasta to al
dente right in the same pot to help
infuse it with flavor—and to avoid
dirtying extra dishes.
Finally, stir in a generous
amount of grated Parmesan
cheese for extra richness and nutty
depth and some chopped basil for
a fresh pop of flavor and aroma.
Can food ever be too comforting?
That’s a good question to get the
dinner conversation started.
OCTOBER/N OVE MB E R
COOKING FOR T W O
PASTA E FAGIOLI FOR TWO
Total Time: 1 hour
You can use any small pasta
shape, such as tubettini, elbow
macaroni, or small shells, in
place of the ditalini. To make
this soup vegetarian, omit
the pancetta and substitute
vegetable broth for the chicken
broth. Note that we use the
liquid from the beans, so don’t
drain it up front.
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive
oil, plus extra for drizzling
1 onion, chopped fine
1 carrot, peeled and
chopped fine
1 ounce pancetta, chopped
fine
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 garlic cloves, minced
1⁄8 teaspoon red pepper flakes
2 cups chicken broth
1 (15-ounce) can cannellini
beans, undrained
½ cup ditalini
¼ cup grated Parmesan
cheese, plus extra for serving
¼ cup finely chopped
fresh basil
1. Heat oil in medium sauce-
pan over medium heat until
shimmering. Add onion, carrot,
pancetta, salt, and pepper and
cook until vegetables are soft-
ened, 6 to 8 minutes.
2. Add tomato paste, garlic,
and pepper flakes and cook
until fragrant, about 2 minutes.
Stir in broth and beans and
their liquid, scraping up any
browned bits, and bring to boil.
Reduce heat to medium-low
and simmer, stirring occasion-
ally, until liquid has thickened
slightly, about 10 minutes.
3. Increase heat to medium and
bring to boil. Add pasta and
cook, stirring occasionally, until
pasta is al dente, 10 to 12 min-
utes. Off heat, stir in Parmesan
and basil. Serve, drizzling with
extra oil and passing extra
Parmesan separately.
2023 • COO K’S COU NTRY 37
 CO O K I N G C L ASS
The browned
butter makes
these muffins
a decadent
morning treat.
BROW NE D BU TT ER
CH OCOL AT E C H U NK MUF FI NS
Makes 12 muffins
Total Time: 1¼ hours,
plus 30 minutes cooling
Using homemade parchment
paper liners gives the muffins
their tall, neat shape and ensures
that the muffins will release
easily. If you don’t want to make
your own, you can use tulip lin-
ers. Standard muffin liners will
also work but won’t result in the
same tall shape. If you don’t have
a small drinking glass, a 6-ounce
can of tomato paste works well
to form the parchment liners in
step 1.
38 CO OK’S COU NTRY • O CTOB ER /NOVE MB ER
2 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose
flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon table salt
8 ounces semisweet chocolate,
chopped coarse
16 tablespoons unsalted butter
1¼ cups (8¾ ounces) sugar, plus
¼ cup sugar for sprinkling
2 large eggs
2 cups sour cream
4 teaspoons vanilla extract
1. Adjust oven rack to
upper-middle position and heat
oven to 400 degrees. Cut twelve
6-inch squares of parchment paper.
Press each square around bottom
of tapered drinking glass with 1¾-
to 2-inch base, creasing paper to
form cup shape. Place parchment
2023
Browned
Butter
Chocolate
Chunk
0Xį QV
No one will believe you made these rich,
buttery, chocolate-studded muffins
at home. by Amanda Luchtel
T H E S E U LT R A R I C H
chocolate chunk muffins, with
their tall shape, “fancy” parch-
ment liners, and glistening sug-
ared tops, will look like they came
from your favorite bakery. Their
richness and intense buttery
flavor come from adding nutty
browned butter to the batter.
Like most muffins, they are made
using a mixing method called
the “muffin method”: combin-
ing the wet ingredients and then
liners in muffin cups, allowing
excess parchment to protrude
vertically from cups.
2. Whisk flour, baking powder,
and salt together in medium bowl.
Stir in chocolate and set aside.
Melt butter in 10-inch skillet over
medium-high heat. Cook, stirring
constantly with rubber spatula,
until butter is dark golden brown
and has nutty aroma, 2 to 4 min-
utes. Transfer browned butter to
second bowl and let cool slightly,
about 10 minutes.
3. Whisk 1¼ cups sugar and
eggs in large bowl until thick and
creamy, about 1 minute. Whisk in
sour cream, vanilla, and browned
butter. Fold in flour mixture with
rubber spatula until just moist-
ened; do not overmix. (Batter will
folding in the dry ingredients.
This means you can simply stir
these muffins together—no stand
mixer needed. Gently folding
in the dry ingredients prevents
overmixing and limits gluten
formation, keeping the muf-
fins tender. Instead of chocolate
chips, irregularly sized chocolate
chunks disperse throughout the
muffins, making for soft, melted
bits of chocolate in each bite.
be thick and lumpy with spots of
dry flour.)
4. Using greased ⅓-cup dry mea-
suring cup, portion heaping ⅓ cup
batter into each parchment-lined
muffin cup; evenly distribute any
remaining batter among cups (cups
will be full). Sprinkle remaining
¼ cup sugar evenly over batter
(about 1 teaspoon per muffin).
5. Bake until muffins are golden
brown and toothpick inserted in
center comes out with few crumbs
attached, 20 to 25 minutes, rotat-
ing muffin tin halfway through
baking. Let muffins cool in muffin
tin on wire rack for 5 minutes.
Transfer muffins to rack and let
cool for at least 30 minutes. Serve
warm or at room temperature.
 COOKI N G C L ASS

Homemade versus Standard Liners Why Brown the Butter? MELT E D

We found that making our own parchment paper liners was worth it to
encourage the muffins to rise high and prevent them from sticking to the tin.
When butter makes muffins dense, it’s because of
the water that butter is contributing to the recipe,
which gets absorbed by the starch and weighs LI GHT
B ROWN
it down. Browning the butter removes its water,
effectively turning the butter into oil. Instead of
making the muffin heavy, browned butter keeps it
short, rich, and crumbly. DARK
Unlike oil, browned butter is solid at room tem- B ROWN

perature, which keeps the muffins from tasting

STA N DAR D LI NE RS
Muffin “mushrooms” out over the liner.
greasy. Since butter melts at body temperature,
when you take a bite, the butter softens, giving the BURN T
muffins a lush, moist mouthfeel. –Paul Adams
PA RC H M E NT PAP ER L I NERS
Muffin rises high and releases easily.

HOW TO MA KE BROW NE D BU TTER CHO CO LATE CH UNK MUFFINS

1. Line muffin tin Cut parchment
paper squares and press each around
tapered drinking glass, creasing to
form cup. Set papers in muffin cups.
Why? Parchment liners allow for easy
removal and a nicely risen top that
doesn’t stick to the tin. Creasing the
parchment makes it the right size.
2. Brown butter Melt 2 sticks butter
in 10-inch skillet, then cook, stirring,
until milk solids are toasted.
Why? Browning butter causes water
to evaporate, making the butter more
similar to oil, which results in rich,
crumbly (not dense) muffins. It also
adds depth and nuttiness.
3. Chop chocolate Coarsely chop
8 ounces semisweet chocolate.
Pieces will vary in size.
Why? Using bar chocolate (which
doesn’t have stabilizers) instead of
chips means no waxy texture at room
temperature, plus different-size pock-
ets of chocolate in the muffins.
4. Make batter Whisk dry ingredi-
ents, including chocolate, and wet
ingredients separately, then fold dry
mixture into wet; do not overmix.
Why? Adding the chocolate with the
dry ingredients helps avoid overmix-
ing, which can lead to more gluten
formation and a tougher muffin.

5. Portion muffins Distribute batter
evenly among muffin cups, about
heaping 1⁄3 cup each.
Why? Using a measuring cup helps
make consistent-size muffins. Filling
the muffin cups generously creates
tall and nicely rounded muffins.
6. Sprinkle with sugar Using tea-
spoon measure, sprinkle muffin tops
with sugar.
Why? Sprinkling the muffin tops
with sugar creates crunchy, crackly
bakery-style tops. Using a teaspoon
measure contains the sugar so that
less ends up burnt onto the muffin tin.
7. Bake muffins Bake on
upper-middle rack at 400 degrees
until muffins are golden brown.
Why? Baking at a higher tempera-
ture helps create that iconic muffin
top dome, and the higher rack posi-
tion allows for more color on the
tops of the muffins.
8. Cool muffins Let muffins cool
in tin on wire rack for 5 minutes.
Remove from tin and transfer to rack
to cool for at least 30 minutes.
Why? The muffins’ texture is best
once they’ve cooled a bit because
the fats solidify, leaving the muffins
lush and moist rather than greasy.

OCTO BER/N OVE MBER 2023 • COO K’S COUN T RY 39

 O N E PA N

for drizzling over the cod.) Next,
sprinkle the cod with salt and chili
powder, transfer it to a hot skillet
coated with a slick of oil, and
brown it on just one side.
Set the cod aside and sauté
chopped poblano chiles in the
same skillet. Stir in raw white rice,
scallion whites, and some minced
garlic, and stir to coat the grains
with the vegetable-infused oil;
toasting the rice in this manner
adds flavor and helps the rice cook
up fluffy. Pour in chicken broth,
along with the blended cilantro
mixture, and simmer everything
covered until the rice is about
halfway done, just 10 minutes.
Set the cod on top, re-cover
the skillet, and cook everything
together until the rice and fish are
done, another 10 minutes. During
this last bit of cooking, the rice
eagerly drinks up the sweet, briny
cod juices, bringing all the flavors
together. To finish it off, drizzle
the cod with a mayonnaise-based
sauce, enhanced by the cilantro
mixture, and sprinkle scallion
greens over the top.

ON E-PA N COD A ND sauce. Reserve remaining cilantro

GRE EN RI CE
Serves 4 Total Time: 1 hour
For a spicier dish, reserve and add
the jalapeño seeds to the rice. This
recipe requires a 12-inch nonstick
We cook the rice
in water enhanced
skillet with a tight-fitting lid.
with pureed cilantro,
spinach, and chile. 1 cup fresh cilantro leaves and
stems
mixture separately.
2. Combine chili powder and
1 teaspoon salt in small bowl. Pat
cod dry with paper towels and
sprinkle all over with salt mixture.
Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch
nonstick skillet over medium-high
heat until just smoking. Place
cod in skillet and cook until well

Cod and
1 ounce (1 cup) baby spinach browned on first side, about
1 jalapeño chile, stemmed, 2 minutes. Using 2 spatulas, care-

Green Rice
This easy, one-skillet supper will make you
see cod in a whole new light. by Lawman Johnson
W H A T ’ S N O T T O love about
a one-skillet meal? Not only are
these recipes often streamlined for
ease of cooking and cleaning, but
because everything cooks togeth-
er, the flavors get a chance to hang
out, meld, and deepen. Such is
the case with this knockout recipe
for tender, mild cod cooked with
deeply seasoned rice.
Rice, of course, is native to
Asia, but there has been no
turning back since Europeans
introduced it to the Americas in
the early 1500s; it has become a
staple throughout South, Central,
and North America. One of the
pinnacles of Mexican rice cooking
is arroz poblano/arroz verde, or
green rice. It’s typically made by
cooking the rice in some combina-
tion of chopped or pureed green
peppers (commonly poblanos and
jalapeños), cilantro, onion, garlic,
and broth. This recipe takes inspi-
ration from green rice and adds
cod to the mix for a satisfying,
light, bright meal.
The first step is to blend cilan-
tro, baby spinach, jalapeño, and
water until smooth; this is the base
that will give the rice deep vegetal
flavor and its green hue. (A little
of the mixture also flavors a sauce
seeded, and chopped
1 cup water
½ cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons lime juice,
plus lime wedges for serving
2 teaspoons table salt, divided
1 teaspoon chili powder
2 tablespoons vegetable oil,
divided
4 (6- to 8-ounce) skinless cod
fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick
2 poblano chiles, stemmed,
seeded, and chopped
1½ cups long-grain white rice, rinsed
2 scallions, white and green parts
separated and sliced thin
2 garlic cloves, minced
1½ cups chicken broth
1. Process cilantro, spinach,
jalapeño, and water in blender
until smooth, about 2 minutes,
scraping down sides of blender jar
as needed. Transfer 1 tablespoon
cilantro mixture to small bowl and
whisk in mayonnaise, lime juice,
and ⅛ teaspoon salt; set aside
fully transfer cod to plate, browned
side up. Wipe out skillet with
paper towels.
3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil
in now-empty skillet over medium-
high heat until shimmering. Add
poblanos and ⅛ teaspoon salt and
cook, stirring occasionally, until
lightly browned, about 2 minutes.
Stir in rice, scallion whites, and
garlic and cook, stirring often, until
edges of rice are translucent, about
2 minutes. Stir in broth, remaining
cilantro mixture, and remaining
¾ teaspoon salt and bring to boil.
Cover, reduce heat to medium-low,
and simmer for 10 minutes.
4. Carefully place cod browned
side up on top of rice mixture.
Cover skillet and cook until
remaining liquid is absorbed and
cod flakes apart when gently prod-
ded with paring knife and registers
135 degrees, 8 to 10 minutes. Off
heat, drizzle cod with sauce and
sprinkle with scallion greens. Serve
with lime wedges.

40 CO O K’S COU NT RY • O CTO BE R/ N OV EMBE R 2023


Brown Sugar
Applesauce
Brown sugar gives our simple applesauce an
appealing toffee-like flavor. by Jessica Rudolph
HOMEMADE APPLESAUCE
might seem like a project, but it’s
easier than you’d think and is a
great way to capture the crisp and
fruity qualities of fresh apples.
To make it, start by peeling and
coring whatever apples you have
on hand. Cut them into quarters
and tumble them into a large
saucepan with sugar (we like to
use brown sugar for its rich cara-
mel flavor, but white sugar also
works), cinnamon (just enough
to complement the apple flavor
Homemade
applesauce means
big apple flavor—and
no preservatives.
without being too prominent), a
pinch of salt, and water. Then,
simply simmer it together until
the apples are soft and squishy,
which takes about 30 minutes.
A quick blitz in the food proces-
sor transforms the apples and
cooking liquid into silky-smooth
applesauce, perfect for break-
fasts, snacks, or your next baking
project (may I humbly suggest
the Applesauce Spice Cake with
Brown Sugar Icing on page 34).
Four Easy Steps to Fantastic Applesauce
1. Bring all ingredients to boil in large
saucepan over medium-high heat.
3. Process apple mixture until
smooth, about 1 minute.
OCTOBE R/ NOVE MBE R
HOW TO MA K E
BROWN SU GAR APP LESAU CE
Serves 8 (Makes 4 cups)
Total Time: 45 minutes
You can use any variety of sweet
apple except for Red or Golden
Delicious. Since apples can vary
in sweetness, you can adjust the
applesauce with extra sugar to
taste in step 2.
3 pounds sweet apples, peeled,
cored, and quartered
1 cup water
1⁄3 cup packed (21⁄3 ounces) brown
sugar, plus extra for seasoning
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch table salt
1. Combine all ingredients in large
saucepan and bring to boil over
medium-high heat. Reduce heat to
medium-low; cover; and cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until apples are
very soft, 30 to 35 minutes.
2. Transfer apple mixture to
food processor and process until
smooth, about 1 minute. Adjust
sweetness with extra sugar to taste.
Serve warm, at room temperature,
or chilled. (Applesauce can be
refrigerated for up to 1 week.)
2. Reduce heat, cover, and cook until
apples are very soft.
4. Adjust sweetness with extra sugar
to taste.
2023 • CO OK’S COU NT RY 41
 The Best
Cooking Sprays
COOKING SPRAY COMES
in handy in the kitchen when
we want to be sure that sticky or
delicate foods release cleanly. It
comes in two main categories:
This handy product can be the difference between a traditional (with propellants) or
successful dish and a sticky disaster. by Carolyn Grillo bag-on-valve (also referred to as
propellantless). To find the best,
we purchased nine products made
from canola oil, coconut oil, avo-
cado oil, olive oil, and more. We
didn’t see performance or flavor
differences between the types of
oil used in these sprays, but we did
find benefits and drawbacks to the
two styles of spray, including how
easy they were to use. Which spray
is right for you?

See the full testing results at

AmericasTestKitchen.com/nov23.

TRADITIONAL COOKING SPRAYS VS. BAG-ON-VALVE COOKING SPRAYS

FAQs
WHAT ’S I N T HE CAN ? Traditional cooking WHAT’S I N TH E CAN? These sprays are
sprays typically consist of one or more oils made from 100 percent oil and contain no What’s the difference
combined with an emulsifier, such as lecithin, emulsifiers. In a “bag-on-valve” setup, the oil between cooking spray and
and a propellant such as propane or butane. is placed inside a bag within the can, separate baking spray?
from a pressurized propellant gas (com- Baking spray typically contains
SPRAY PAT T E RN : Traditional cooking pressed air or nitrogen). a starch such as flour or
sprays all dispersed spray in a circular pat- cornstarch, while cooking spray
tern that shot straight ahead. This pattern SP RAY PATTER N: The bag-on-valve cans does not. These starch particles
efficiently covered the surface of our pans, sprayed in a vertical oval shape and shot out help baked goods release easily
and we knew exactly where the spray was OUR at an odd upward angle, which made it a bit OUR because they create space
TO P TOP
going to land—a big help in evenly and harder to evenly and efficiently cover a pan. between the baked goods and
P I CK PI CK
quickly coating our pans. the pan. Unless you are doing
NO NST IC K AB ILITY: We observed a something really intricate or
slight difference in the performance of these sprays extra-sticky, cooking spray is
compared to sprays that contain lecithin. The food fine when baking.
T RADI T IO NA L BAG- ON -VA LV E released well, but we noticed a little more sticking and
Dispersed evenly in a Sputtered out in
once in a while we had to nudge the food free. Are these sprays flammable?
round spray pattern different directions
Formulations containing
SM O KE P OI N T : Because they don’t contain lecithin, propane or butane will ignite if
bag-on-valve cooking sprays have a higher smoke they’re sprayed near an open
point. You can cook at a higher heat without worrying flame since they contain
NO N ST I CK A B IL I TY: Emulsifiers such as lecithin about discoloration negatively affecting your food. highly flammable ingredients.
improve a spray’s performance by helping the oil Formulations without these
adhere to the surface of cookware or bakeware. Prod- ingredients should still not be
ucts that contained it created absolutely seamless sprayed near a flame since
nonstick surfaces. aerosolized oil is flammable
as well. To use these products
SMO K E P O IN T: Lecithin has a low smoke point, so safely, spray your skillet before
sprays containing it darkened and negatively affected you turn on the burner. Also,
the appearance and flavor of food when exposed to store your cooking spray at
high temperatures. If you plan to use your cooking room temperature in a cabinet
NO LECI T H IN CO NTA INS LEC I TH I N
spray primarily for high-heat cooking, we recommend safely away from heat sources.
(higher smoke point) (lower smoke point)
skipping sprays that use lecithin.

42 COO K’S COU NT RY • O CTO BER/N OVE M BER 2023

 ATK R EVIEWS

13 by 9-Inch Baking Pans

Whether you’re baking cakes or cinnamon buns, it really matters which pan you use.
by Carolyn Grillo

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

S LIC K NO NST ICK COATIN G : have a place to rest our hands.

A nonstick coating is essential for A few of the pans we tested had
any recipe that calls for invert- dedicated handles that were easy
ing the pan to release the food to securely grip.
once baked. Pans with nonstick
coatings easily released even the CRI SP COR NE RS: Pans with
stickiest food baked in them. They sharp 90-degree (rather than
were also simpler to clean. curved) corners produced cakes
and bars with well-defined,
ST RAIG HT WAL LS: Pans with professional-looking edges.
OUR TOP PICK straight walls turned out straight,
tall, evenly baked cakes.
Williams Sonoma
Goldtouch Pro Nonstick
Rectangular Cake Pan NI CE TO HAVE
Model: 393448 H AN DLES: When moving pans
Price: $49.95 in and out of the oven, we like to

WHAT TO AVOID
WE USE OUR 13 by 9-inch metal in pans of different materials and
baking pans to make some of our designs and compared the results. UN COAT ED PANS : We found two pans were made from two
favorite treats, including cakes The Williams Sonoma that sticky buns baked in pans pieces of bakeware. One was a
and sticky buns. At first glance, it Goldtouch Pro Nonstick Rect- without nonstick coatings either pan with a removable bottom; the
might seem as though any one of angular Cake Pan remains our had to be chiseled out one by one other extended the walls of a 13 by
the generic-looking metal boxes winner. It produces evenly baked, or, if they did release from the pan, 9-inch rimmed baking sheet. We
on store shelves would do just fine. golden-brown cakes with tall sides left behind nearly all their glaze. experienced leakage problems
But you’d be surprised: Choose and crisp corners. Plus, its non- while baking with both pans.
the wrong one and your cake won’t stick coating is slick, so it releases DE E PLY S LOPE D WALLS:
bake evenly, and the sticky part food easily and is a cinch to clean. Walls with deeply sloped sides OT HE R CONS I DE RATI ON S
of your sticky buns will stick to had added surface area that PAN COLOR : In general,
the pan, not the buns. We baked See the full testing results at allowed the batter to spread out gold- and light-colored pans
Yellow Sheet Cake and Sticky Buns AmericasTestKitchen.com/nov23. more and ultimately resulted in produce lighter-colored baked
thinner cakes. goods while dark-colored pans
produce baked goods that are
MU LT IPART PANS : Most of darker in color. That’s because
Metal vs. Glass vs. Ceramic: What’s the Difference? the pans in our lineup were made darker-colored pans absorb heat
from a single piece of metal, but more efficiently than golden-
and light-colored pans.
Although this isn’t
necessarily bad, when
baking food in a darker
pan, you’ll need to check
Metal pans with nonstick coatings (left) can’t do everything, so we use glass for doneness a few
and ceramic baking dishes too. Glass baking dishes (center) are safe for use minutes sooner than
with metal utensils. And unlike metals pans with nonstick coatings and glass when you would when
dishes, some ceramic baking dishes (right) are broiler-safe, making them the using pans that are lighter
only options for recipes that are cooked entirely or finish browning under the in color.
broiler’s intense heat.

OCTO BE R/NOV EM BE R 2023 • CO OK’S COU NTRY 43

 BONUS RECIPE
Seeded Lavash
Crackers
The perfect vehicle for your favorite dip.
by Emelia Mericola
QU I C K S E E D E D
L AVAS H CRAC KE RS
Makes 36 crackers
Total Time: 25 minutes
If you don’t have a fluted pastry
wheel, you can use a pizza cutter
or a large knife to cut the lavash
in step 2.
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon coarsely ground
pepper
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon water
2 (9 by 12-inch) lavash
1. Adjust oven racks to
upper-middle and lower-middle
positions and heat oven to
350 degrees. Line 2 baking
sheets with parchment paper.
COMING
NEXT ISSUE
Our December/January
2024 issue ushers in the
holiday season with recipes for
slow-roasted Porchetta, Stewed
Cranberry Beans, Chuck
Roast Braised in Red Wine, an
upscale Grapefruit Tart, and
easy No-Bake Cookies. You’ll
also find recipes for restau-
rant-caliber Crispy-Skinned
Salmon and Portobello
Mushroom Fries, as well as a
stunning Persimmon Salad.
44 COOK’S COUN TRY •
Combine sesame seeds, cumin
seeds, salt, and pepper in small
bowl; set aside. Beat egg and
water together in second small
bowl; set aside.
2 . Place 1 lavash on counter with
short side parallel to counter
edge. Using fluted pastry wheel,
cut lavash vertically into three
3-inch-wide strips. Cut lavash
strips at 2-inch intervals to make
a total of 18 pieces. Repeat with
remaining lavash.
3. Arrange lavash pieces in even
layer on prepared sheets. Brush
each piece with egg mixture, then
sprinkle evenly with seed mixture.
Bake until golden brown and
crisp, 6 to 8 minutes, rotating and
switching sheets halfway through
baking. Let cool before serving.
(Crackers can be stored in airtight
container for up to 3 days.)
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O CTOBE R/ N OVE M BE R 2023
PORTRA I TS
OF TH E P EO P LE MATTHEW RAIFORD
pulls carrots from an elevated
WH O F E E D US bed at Gilliard Farms in
Brunswick, Georgia.
PHOTO BY STEVE KLISE

Read our collection of

On the Road articles at
CooksCountry.com/ontheroad
 INSIDE THIS ISSUE

24 Bulgur with Roasted Vegetables, 24 Pepperoni Pizza with Blue 28 Flash-Marinated Skirt Steaks 13 Watercress and Apple Salad 11 Cider-Braised Turkey
Beans, and Arugula Salad Cheese, Peppers, and Honey with Gochujang and Scallion with Maple-Hazelnut Vinaigrette

25 Beet Dip with Yogurt and Tahini 37 Pasta e Fagioli for Two 29 Shaved Cauliflower Salad with 38 Browned Butter Chocolate 40 One-Pan Cod and Green Rice
Date-Dijon Dressing Chunk Muffins

34 Applesauce Spice Cake with 27 Klobásníky (Texas Czech–Style 33 Shoofly Pie 41 Brown Sugar Applesauce 18 Spiced Orange and Fennel Salad
Brown Sugar Icing Sausage Rolls)

24 Turkey Burgers with Pickled 22 Shrimp Scampi with Zucchini 15 Pawpaw Ice Cream 36 Instant Pot Beef Ragu 44 Quick Seeded Lavash Crackers
Cranberries Noodles

19 Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes 22 Glazed Salmon with Kale, Pear, 31 Shanghai Scallion Oil Noodles 20 Pan-Seared Chicken Cutlets 17 Cranberry-Glazed Roast Pork
and Cheddar Salad with Wilted Basil and Pine Nuts Loin