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MEDIEVAL MONUMENTS IN INDIA

A Historical and Architectural Study in Haryana


(1206 A.D. - 1707 A.D.)
ii Medieval Monuments in India
Medieval Monuments in India iii

MEDIEVAL MONUMENTS IN INDIA


A Historical and Architectural Study in Haryana
(1206 A.D. - 1707 A.D.)

Dr Jagdish Parshad
iv Medieval Monuments in India

© Jagdish Parshad

First Published 2011

ISBN : 978 81 7320 114 1

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a


retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording, otherwise, without the prior permission of
Author and Publisher.

Published by
Dr. Agam Prasad, M.A., Ph.D., Diploma in Museology
For
34, Central Market, Ashok Vihar, Delhi 110 052.
Ph. : 27212195, 65688806 7
E mail : agambooks@gmail.com, agambook@yahoo.com
Website : www.agamkala.com

Composed by

319, IIIrd Floor, R. G. Complex,


Sector 14, Rohini, Delhi 110085

!""
Delhi 110052.
vi Medieval Monuments in India
Preface ix

List of Abbreviations xi

List of Illustrations xiii

Chapter 1 : Introduction 1

Chapter 2 : Historical Background 7

Chapter 3 : Mosques 15

Chapter 4 : Tombs 43

Chapter 5 : Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 85

Chapter 6 : Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 119

Chapter 7 : Baolis, Tanks and Wells 139

Chapter 8 : Conclusion 153

Glossary 157

Bibliography 163

Index 175

Plates 183
viii Medieval Monuments in India
"

Architecture is a source of history as well as a fine art and discipline in itself. It


constitutes a veritable chronicle in stone. The stamp of an age and the people
who lived in it their tastes, beliefs, ideals, standards and skills is most truthfully
imprinted upon their monuments, without a knowledge of which the history of
any period lacks that human interest with which it should be inverted.
India has a rich crop of medieval monuments which are scattered in every
part of the country. Some monuments are recorded but other are still lying
unnoticed and have still not found place in the records of Indian history. The
theme of my work is ‘Medieval Monuments in India: A Historical and
Architectural Study in Haryana’ on the basis of medieval structures. Monuments
are an essential part of our city. These monuments are also linked directly with
life of the inhabitants. Some scholar seems that there are no monuments in
Haryana state but I clear the doubt that there is lot of medieval monuments
scattered all over Haryana.
The present work is a survey of the rich medieval architectural heritage of
the Haryana state. The book covers the monuments erected during the period
1206 AD to 1707 AD, i.e., during the Sultanate and Mughal period. I have opted
for a very appropriate subject to work on, monuments of great importance are
lying in a neglected condition, and hence by working on the subject, I have
brought out the general concern of the sensitivity towards our heritage.
The subject has divided into eight chapters. The first chapter describes the
introduction of the subject. The second chapter briefly delineates the historical
background of the state. After this chapter, I start the survey of monuments,
classified on typological basis. The third and forth chapters describe mosques
and tombs respectively. The fifth chapter covers monuments related with travel
(sarai, kos minars and bridges) all of which were built during the Mughal period.
Sixth chapter deals with forts, gates, baradaris, and gardens from the subject
matter. Seventh chapter comprises a survey of water structures like baolis
(stepwells), tanks and wells. And the last chapter describes the conclusion of the
work.
I have put a great effort in this work, traveling through the length and
breadth of the state of Haryana. The merit of the work lies in its documentation
that I have worked in situ and though I have quoted extensively from all
x Medieval Monuments in India
available sources, contemporary as well as modern, field work constitutes the
basis of this work. The study is fully illustrated with 27 figures of plans, 8 maps
and 219 plates to illustrate the text.
It gives me immense pleasure to acknowledge my indebtedness and deep
sense of gratitude to all those who have helped me in completing this project.
First, I express my sincere thanks Professor K.C. Yadav, Director, Haryana
Academy of History and Culture, Gurgaon, who guided me on various points. I
am also grateful to Dr. Subhash Parihar, Head, Department of History,
Government College Faridkot for his valuable suggestions and advice on the
various aspects of Mughal Architecture.
I am also most grateful to Dr. P. K. Sharma, Assistant Registrar, National
Museum Institute, New Delhi, who encouraged me to pursue this work and
guided me to the end, to Dr. Nasim Aktar, Curator Manuscripts, National
Museum, for making useful suggestion to improve the text and to Dr. B. N.
Singh, Slide Librarian for their kind help and cooperation.
Material for this work was gathered from the Central Library
Archaeological Survey of India, New Delhi, American Institute of Indian Studies
Library, Gurgaon, National Museum Institute and National Museum Library,
New Delhi, Maulana Azad Library, Aligarh Muslim University, Aligarh and
Archaeological Survey of India, Chandigarh Circle Library, Chandigarh. My
thanks are also due to the authorities: Delhi Police where I am working,
Archaeological Survey of India, Chandigarh Circle and Archaeology and
Museum Department, Haryana for the permission to take photographs of the
monuments. I have also copied some figure from the book and articles published
earlier by Dr. Subhash Parihar, Catherine B. Asher, Dr. P. K. Sharma, K. V.
Soundararajan, Mehrdad Shokoohy, ASI and others. I am also thankful to Mr.
Rajan, Draftsman ASI, for drawing the plan of the monuments.
I am also thankful go to my respected father, Sh. Harnarayan Singh,
mother Smt. Nanri Devi, for their blessings and my wife Smt. Krishana Yadav,
for their cooperation and encouragement and to my son, Rahul for not bothering
me in any way during the long, difficult days when I was busy doing this work.
Last but not the least; my thanks are due to Dr. Agam Prasad and the staff
of Agam Kala Prakashan for publishing the book in such a short period and in a
beautiful style.

#$
New Delhi
23 May, 2011.
" %% &

ASI Archaeological Survey of India


ASI Reports Archaeological Survey of India Reports, Alexander
Cunningham and others (24 vols.)
EI Epigraphia Indica
EIM Epigraphia Indo Moslemica
EIAPS Epigraphia Indica, Arabic and Persian Supplement
HIPA Haryana Institute of Public Administration
HRJ Haryana Research Journal (Rewari)
IAR Indian Archaeological A Review, New Delhi
IGI Imperial Gazetteer of India
JHS Journal of Haryana Studies (Kurukshetra)
JPASB Journal and Proceeding of the Asiatic Society of Bengal,
Calcutta
JPHS Journal of Pakistan Historical Society (Karachi)
PASB Proceedings of the Asiatic Society of Bengal, Calcutta
PIHC Proceedings of Indian History Congress
PPP Panjab Past & Present (Patiala)
xii Medieval Monuments in India
" '

Map 1 Important sites showing monuments in Haryana


Map 2 Mosques in Haryana
Map 3 Tombs in Haryana
Map 4 Sarais in Haryana
Map 5 Kos Minars in Haryana
Map 6 Bridges in Haryana
Map 7 Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens in Haryana
Map 8 Baolis in Haryana

( '
Fig. 1 Sketch showing elements of a mosque
Fig. 2 Ground plan of Pathariya Masjid, Thanesar
Fig. 3 Ground plan of Bahadur Nahar Khan Mosque, Kotla (Mewat)
Fig. 4 Ground plan of Ababakr Jalwani Mosque, Hansi
Fig. 5 Plan of the Kabuli Mosque, Panipat
Fig. 6 Corbelling Pattern
Fig. 7 Squinch Pattern
Fig. 8 Sketch plane of Jama Masjid, Kaithal
Fig. 9 Ground plan of Hafiz Jamala Tomb, Panipat
Fig. 10 Ground plan of Samsuddin Turk Tomb, Panipat
Fig. 11 Ground plan of Chahar Diwan and Ek Diwan, Hansi
Fig. 12 Ground plan of Ali Mir Tijara, Hansi
Fig. 13 Ground plan of Shaikh Jalaluddin Tomb, Panipat
Fig. 14 Ground plan of Ibrahim Lodi Tomb, Panipat
Fig. 15 Ground plan of Ibrahim Khan Sur Tomb, Narnaul
Fig. 16 Ground plan of Shah Quli Khan Tomb, Narnaul
Fig. 17 Plan of Bu Ali Qalandar Tomb (A) and Muqarrab Khan Tomb
(B), Panipat
Fig. 18 Plan of Shaikh Chehli Tomb, Thanesar
Fig. 19 Ground plan of the southern gateway of Gharaunda Sarai
Fig. 20 Ground plan of the northern gateway of the Taraori Sarai
Fig. 21 Ground plan of Thanesar Sarai
Fig. 22 Ground plan of the southern gateway of the Shahabad Sarai
Fig. 23 Ground plan of the Firoz Shah Fort, Hisar
Fig. 24 Ground plan of the Barsi Gate, Hansi
xiv Medieval Monuments in India
Fig. 25 Ground plan of the Ni’mat Ullah gateway, Hansi
Fig. 26 Ground plan of the Jal Mahal, Narnaul
Fig. 27 Ground plan of Meham Baoli

Plate 1 General view of Lat ki Masjid, Hisar


Plate 2 Prayer hall of the mosque
Plate 3 Central mihrab of the mosque
Plate 4 Mezzanine gallery
Plate 5 General view of the Idgah, Fatehabad
Plate 6 General view of the Pathariya Masjid, Thanesar
Plate 7 Central mihrab of the mosque
Plate 8 Flat ceiling of the masjid
Plate 9 Backside of the mosque and sloping minars
Plate 10 General view of the Ababakr Jalwani Mosque, Hansi
Plate 11 Central mihrab and mimbar
Plate 12 General view of the Kabuli Bagh Mosque, Panipat
Plate 13 Central mihrab
Plate 14 Interior of the sanctuary hall
Plate 15 General view of the Jama Masjid, Meham
Plate 16 Inscription on the outer façade
Plate 17 Central mihrab
Plate 18 General view of the Humayun Masjid, Fatehabad
Plate 19 Inscription of the Humayun Masjid
Plate 20 General view of the Jama Masjid, Kaithal
Plate 21 Western side view of the Chiniwali Masjid, Thanesar
Plate 22 General view of the Qazi ki Masjid
Plate 23 General view of the Abdul Wahab Mosque, Sadhora
Plate 24 Bulbous and rectangular domes
Plate 25 General view of the Dana Sher Mosque, Hisar
Plate 26 General view of the Ghuriyun Masjid 1, Hansi
Plate 27 General view of the Hafiz Jamala Tomb, Panipat
Plate 28 General view of the Khwaja Samsuddin Turk Tomb, Panipat
Plate 29 General view of the Shah Wilayat Tomb, Narnaul
Plate 30 Grave in the mortuary hall
Plate 31 Painting of the tomb
Plate 32 General view of the Chor Gumbad, Narnaul
Plate 33 General view of the Pranpir Padshah Tomb, Hisar
Plate 34 General view of the Chahar Diwan, Hansi
Plate 35 General view of the Ali Mir Tijara Tomb, Hansi
Plate 36 General view of the Chahar Qutb Tomb, Hansi
Plate 37 Graves in the Chahar Qutb Tomb
Plate 38 General view of the Shaikh Jalaluddin Tomb, Panipat
Plate 39 General view of the Khwaja Khizr Khan Tomb, Sonepat
Plate 40 The ceiling of the mortuary hall
Plate 41 Graves in the mortuary hall
List of Plates xv
Plate 42 Central mihrab
Plate 43 General view of the Ibrahim Lodi Tomb, Panipat
Plate 44 General view of the Ibrahim Khan Sur Tomb, Narnaul
Plate 45 Southern gateway
Plate 46 The octagonal chhatrī
Plate 47 The interior of the dome
Plate 48 Central mihrab
Plate 49 The Islamic talisman
Plate 50 Graves of the mortuary hall
Plate 51 General view of the Shah Quli Khan Tomb, Narnaul
Plate 52 Southern side inscription
Plate 53 Graves
Plate 54 General view of the Jalaluddin Tomb, Thanesar
Plate 55 General view of the group of tombs, Jhajjar
Plate 56 Inscription of Miyan Raib Tomb
Plate 57 Central mihrab
Plate 58 Gateway of the Structure 4
Plate 59 Octagonal chhatrī
Plate 60 General view of the Idgah of the Structure 5
Plate 61 Octagonal Tomb
Plate 62 The mosque of the Structure 6, Jhajjar
Plate 63 General view of the Muqarrab Khan Tomb, Panipat
Plate 64 Muqarrab Khan and his family member’s graves
Plate 65 General view of the Abu Ali Qalandar Tomb, Panipat
Plate 66 Touchstone pillars
Plate 67 The ceiling of the verandah
Plate 68 General view of the Shah Roshan Chiragh Tomb, Palwal
Plate 69 Shaikh Chehli Madrasa, Thanesar
Plate 70 Octagonal chhatrī
Plate 71 General view of the Shaikh Chehli Tomb, Thanesar
Plate 72 Graves of Shaikh Chehli and his wife
Plate 73 Original graves under the tomb
Plate 74 Second tomb near the Shaikh Chehli Tomb
Plate 75 General view of the Palwal Sarai
Plate 76 General view of the southern gateway, Gharonda Sarai
Plate 77 Rounded and angular flutes
Plate 78 Soffit of the arches
Plate 79 Southern gateway, moulded stalactites designs.
Plate 80 Projected balcony with corbelled brackets
Plate 81 General view of the northern gateway, Gharonda Sarai
Plate 82 General view of the southern gateway, Taraori Sarai
Plate 83 General view of the northern gateway, Taraori Sarai
Plate 84 Projected balcony on the entrance gateway
Plate 85 Painted decoration
Plate 86 Octagonal chhatrī
Plate 87 Mosque of the sarai
xvi Medieval Monuments in India
Plate 88 Main gate of the Thanesar Sarai
Plate 89 Aiwan of the Thanesar Sarai
Plate 90 General view of the northern gateway, Shahabad Sarai
Plate 91 Circular corner bastion of the Shahabad Sarai
Plate 92 General view of the southern gateway, Shahabad Sarai
Plate 93 General view of the Rai Bal Mukand Das Sarai
Plate 94 Inscription in the gateway
Plate 95 The main gateway of the Saraikhera Sarai
Plate 96 Inscription affixed on the gateway
Plate 97 Royal families’ rooms
Plate 98 Mosque of the sarai
Plate 99 Bhulwana Kos Minar
Plate 100 Hodal Kos Minar
Plate 101 Banchari Kos Minar I
Plate 102 Banchari Kos Minar II
Plate 103 Khataila Minar
Plate 104 Aurangabad Minar
Plate 105 Phulwari Minar
Plate 106 Khusropur Kos Minar
Plate 107 Palwal Kos Minar
Plate 108 Alapur Kos Minar
Plate 109 Miranpur Kos Minar
Plate 110 Gudhpuri Kos Minar
Plate 111 Sikri Kos Minar
Plate 112 Old Faridabad Kos Minar
Plate 113 Khwaja Sarai Kos Minar
Plate 114 Akbarpur Barota Kos Minar
Plate 115 Jagdishpur Kos Minar
Plate 116 Baiyanpur Kos Minar
Plate 117 Sonepat Kos Minar
Plate 118 Jawahri Kos Minar
Plate 119 Rajpura Kos Minar
Plate 120 Ganaur Kos Minar
Plate 121 Panchi Gujran Kos Minar
Plate 122 Kiwana Kos Minar
Plate 123 Manana Kos Minar
Plate 124 Jatipur Kos Minar
Plate 125 Siwah Kos Minar
Plate 126 Panipat Kos Minar I
Plate 127 Panipat Kos Minar II
Plate 128 Kohand Kos Minar
Plate 129 Gharonda Kos Minar I
Plate 130 Gharonda Kos Minar II
Plate 131 Kutail Kos Minar
Plate 132 Daha Kos Minar
Plate 133 Karnal Kos Minar I
List of Plates xvii
Plate 134 Karnal Kos Minar II
Plate 135 Bhaini Kalan Kos Minar
Plate 136 Taraori Kos Minar I
Plate 137 Taraori Kos Minar II
Plate 138 Amin Kos Minar
Plate 139 Fatuhpur Kos Minar
Plate 140 Thanesar Kos Minar
Plate 141 Kaithla Khurd Kos Minar
Plate 142 Bhiwani Khera Kos Minar
Plate 143 Adhor Kos Minar
Plate 144 Sarai Sukhi Kos Minar
Plate 145 Zainpur Kos Minar
Plate 146 Mohri Kos Minar
Plate 147 Machhaunda Kos Minar
Plate 148 Kanwala Kos Minar
Plate 149 Ambala Kos Minar
Plate 150 Khwaja Sarai Bridge
Plate 151 Madhuban Bridge
Plate 152 Taraori Bridge
Plate 153 Thanesar Bridge
Plate 154 The main entrance gateway, Hisar
Plate 155 Northern side of a central courtyard
Plate 156 The arcaded hall on level 1
Plate 157 The carved ancient pillars in the north courtyard.
Plate 158 Gateway of the Bahadur Nahar Fort, Kotla
Plate 159 General view of the Barsi Gate, Hansi
Plate 160 Inscription of Sultan Alauddin Khilji’s reign
Plate 161 A man fighting with a lion
Plate 162 The inner side inscription
Plate 163 General view of the Gateway of the Shah Ni’mat Ullah, Hansi
Plate 164 General view of the Tripolia Gate, Narnaul
Plate 165 Inscription on the gateway
Plate 166 Interior of the gateway
Plate 167 General view of the Gujari Mahal, Hisar
Plate 168 Interior of the hemispherical domes
Plate 169 Decorated pillar
Plate 170 General view of the Jal Mahal, Narnaul
Plate 171 Inscription on Jal Mahal
Plate 172 Domical painted ceiling
Plate 173 Decorated arched squinches
Plate 174 General view of the Rai Bal Mukand Das ka Chhatta, Narnaul
Plate 175 Verandah of the palace
Plate 176 Wooden ceiling
Plate 177 General view of the Rang Mahal, Buria
Plate 178 A lady with a peacock depiction
Plate 179 General view of the Baradari, Tosham
xviii Medieval Monuments in India
Plate 180 General view of the Fort Baradari, Hansi
Plate 181 Arcade pillar hall
Plate 182 General view of the Mughal Garden, Pinjore
Plate 183 Main gate of the garden
Plate 184 Six rows of fifteen small niches
Plate 185 Jal Mahal in the Mughal Garden
Plate 186 The plantation in the Mughal Garden
Plate 187 General view of the Pingwan Baoli, Mewat
Plate 188 Alcoves and blind niches
Plate 189 General view of the Luhari Baoli, Jhajjar
Plate 190 General view of the Mirza Ali Jan ki Baoli, Narnaul
Plate 191 Octagonal well
Plate 192 Rectangular arcade reservoir
Plate 193 General view of the Meham Baoli, Meham
Plate 194 Octagonal well
Plate 195 Staircases in the wall
Plate 196 Rooms near the well
Plate 197 General view of the Kaithal Baoli, Kaithal
Plate 198 Semi octagonal recesses
Plate 199 Cusped arches
Plate 200 Tohana Baoli, Tohana
Plate 201 Cusped archway
Plate 202 Circular well
Plate 203 Mandir Baoli, Thanesar
Plate 204 Circular well
Plate 205 General view of the College Baoli, Narnaul
Plate 206 Double storey portion
Plate 207 Arcade pavilion
Plate 208 Octagonal well
Plate 209 General view of the Fort Baoli, Hansi
Plate 210 A barrel vaulted arcade
Plate 211 Buwawalla Talao, Jhajjar
Plate 212 Anup Talao, Narnaul
Plate 213 Bara Talao, Narnaul
Plate 214 Bidkhiyar Talao, Kaithal
Plate 215 Sati Talao, Hodal
Plate 216 Taraori Tank, Taraori
Plate 217 Madrasa Well, Thanesar
Plate 218 Fort Well, Hansi
Plate 219 Sarai Well, Saraikhera (Mewat)
)*

'

Haryana has a pretty rich cultural heritage. It has occupied a pride of place in
Indian history and life for centuries difficult to count. On account of its strategic
position on the Khyber Delhi main route, and tosituation in the narrow corridor
formed by the Shivalik ranges on the one side and the Thar Desert on the other, it
has been playing an important role in the political history of India. On its
security and care depended the security and independence of the whole country
for thousands of years?1
It was here, along the banks of the river Saraswati and Dhrisdavati; the
Vedic civilization began and matured. It was here that the great ganas were born,
and the great reform movements, the Jainism, Buddhism, Bhakti, etc. flourished.
The great rivers, fertile soils and lasting peace gave birth to great wealth and
richness to the people and made the Land, ‘a noble place on the earth’
devabhoomi.2
What goes up, comes down – is a well known rule of science. It is applicable
to countries, kingdoms, and kings. They rise, they say, then fall. The ‘rise’ has in
other words, the ‘seed’ of fall in it. The inherent contradictions which developed
in later days in the lives of our great people pulled them down and made them
1 For a detailed discussion on the points, see Buddha Prakash (ed.), Glimpses of Haryana,
(Kurukshetra: The University of Kurukshetra, 1967), 11; K. C. Yadav, Haryana: Itihas Evam
Sanskriti, II (New Delhi: Manohar, 2000), 1 16. About the strategic importance of the region
Professor Buddha Prakash says: ‘This region is littered with ancient battlefields like
Kurukshetra, Taraori, Panipat, Kunjpura and Karnal where the fate of India continued to be
decided for centuries without number. That is why it is Karmakshetra and Dharmakshetra, the
land adored with libations of blood and the region requiring an immense sacrifice on the part
of the people’.
2 For details see. K. C. Yadav (ed.), Haryana: Studies in History and Culture (Kurukshetra:
Kurukshetra University, 1968), 6 11; S. S. Chib, This beautiful India: Haryana (New Delhi: Light
& Life Publishers, 1977), 1 6; Leeladhar Dhukhi, Haryana ki Sanskartic Virasat (Delhi: Manak
Publication, 1992), 12.
2 Medieval Monuments in India
fall. As a result, what was good and great in life became bad and small. Progress
gave way to decline almost everywhere. Political uncertainty ruled this roost
almost everywhere.
Taking advantage of the chaotic conditions many invaders came. They
spread confusion, and devastated everything. The worst times were seen in the
12th century. Heritage was destroyed by the invading savages on a large scale.
As a result, our beautiful monuments etc were lost. After Aibak (1206 A.D.) some
new buildings began to be built. His successors, too, added to them specially
their palaces, tombs, mosques, etc.
The Mughals who succeeded the ‘Sultans’ (1526 A.D.) were a shade better
than them in giving us ‘monuments’. This historical background is given in next
chapter to make our narrative better understandable and intelligible.
Several magnificent monuments spread all over Haryana. Despite their
partial destruction during the eighteenth century, most of these monuments
were still standing erect with pride but with a plea on their lips to protect them
from the vagaries of weather, the uninformed neighbours who use them as
cattle sheds or for storing husk, and brick hungry people who steal their bricks,
doors, etc.
Haryana has a rich crop of monuments. (Map 1). Most of these
monuments are in bad shape. These beautiful palaces, magnificent tombs, pretty
mosques, spacious havelis, attractive sarais, baradaris, kos minars, bridges, baolis,
talaos and wells should be preserved. These are not just monuments, pure and
simple. These are chapters of our history and culture, full of life, as they once
were long, long ago. They are a part of us as much as these were in the times of
our forebears who built them. To protect, preserve and conserve them, in short,
to revive them to life, they should be studied in full and their life stories, their
grandeur, and their beauty should be explained to people.

" ' +

The aim of the study is to discuss at length, in a scientific manner, all the
important historical monuments of medieval times in Haryana. The books,
reports, articles, etc do not do justice to the subject. Consequently, there is a
serious gap in our knowledge. We have tried, as best as we could, to fill up this
gap and do justice to the subject in the present work.
All the important monuments have been documented. As the medieval
times in Haryana, their building plans, their architectural make up, their
aesthetic beauty, their historical importance, and their present state of existence
have been discussed. This is a great wealth. There is fear of its being lost if we do
not preserve it.
129 important monuments have been selected for this study. These
monuments are of the medieval times 1206 A.D. to 1707 A.D., built by different
rulers belonging to different dynasties as follows:
Introduction 3
+ +) " ' ' ' + ,*-./ )*0.01
+ + Mamluk Khalji Tughlaq Sayyid Lodi Mughal 2
' dynasty dynasty dynasty dynasty dynasty dynasty
(1206 (1290 (1321 – (1414 – (1451 (1526 –
1290) 1321) 1414) 1444) 1526 ) 1707)
Mosques 4 1 9 14
Tombs 1 1 2 1 5 10 20
Sarais 7 7
Kos Minars 51 51
Bridges 4 4
Forts, Gates 1 5 6 12
Baradaris, etc
Baolis 1 8 9
Tanks 6 6
Wells 6 6
2 * - *- * 0 *./ *-3

4' " '

The subject under study is of great importance. In consequence, several scholars


have made efforts to throw light on it. Alexander Cunningham was perhaps the first
serious scholar to have come to it in 1863. His reports discuss some monuments
covered here. But his discussions, meant as these were for a different purpose, are
too sketchy, and not of much use for us. In 1883, H. B. W. Garrick also made a
similar attempt. He, too, took note of some monuments and discussed them very
briefly. This picture is thus too blurred to be of any big use. C. J. Rodgers came after
Garrick. He published ‘Report of Punjab Circle of Archaeological Survey of India’ first in
1888 and then in 1891. He has also referred to only a few monuments, again
sketchily, leaving most of the monuments for others to report on.
In the following century, 20th, R. S. Bist and Mulkraj Anand published a
Journal titled ‘Haryana Heritage’, a special supplement of Marg, Mumbai in 1974.
They have also discussed only a few monuments, again sketchily. S R. Phogat
worked on the ‘Inscriptions of Haryana’, in 1978. The book deals with some
inscriptions on a few buildings but not all buildings. K. V. Sundra Rajan has done
a book, ‘Islam Builds in India: Cultural Study in Islamic Architecture’, in 1983 and
Subhash Parihar ‘Mughal Monuments in the Punjab and Haryana’ 1985, and ‘Muslim
Inscriptions in the Punjab, Haryana and Himachal Pradesh’, 1985. These are better than
the earlier reports/works. But most of the monuments discussed here are not
touched by him. K. C. Yadav’s monograph, ‘Freak with the Past’, 1991, is a survey of
monuments. There is no discussion on their make up, architectural plan, aesthetic
features, etc. There are some articles on different aspects of some of our
monuments published from different places every now and then. But they cover
too small canvasses to be of any big use in our understanding of the whole picture.
4 Medieval Monuments in India

Map 1: Important sites showing monuments in Haryana (minus kos minars) (Not to scale)
Introduction 5
5

It is not only customary but also necessary to discuss the scheme of


chapterization of a study in the beginning. This study consists of eight chapters
in all. In Chapter 1, the introduction of the subject matter has been described in
length. In Chapter 2, the state of Haryana, its location, people and their historical
past are described, albeit briefly, for providing background necessary for
understanding the intricate matters involved in the study. In Chapter 3, mosques
are discussed. Their location, architectural plans and aesthetic beauty are
explained at length. Chapter 4 deals with tombs, their location, their architectural
plan, artistic composition and their present position. Similarly, Chapter 5
discusses sarais, kos minars and bridges. These are the monuments on routes of
the medieval period. It is also explained here as to what was the function of these
monuments and how travellers used them. Chapter 6 discusses forts, gates,
baradaris, havelis and gardens. These monuments were built by royal families for
their own use. Chapter 7 is a shade different from Chapter 6. Here water
structures have been discussed, such as baolis, tanks and wells. These were built
by kings, rulers and people with philanthropic dispositions for the use of general
public. In the last chapter, the study has been concluded. It has the massage which
has emanated from the study protect, preserve and conserve your valuable
heritage. To lose them would tantamount to losing a past of our life.
As for the order of placement of these monuments, we have followed
chronological sequence instead of locational sequence because that makes our
task of understanding and analysing the monuments various aspects easier.
A glossary at the end explains the Arabic and Persian terms as well as the
architectural terms used here. An exhaustive bibliography has been given, so that
those who want to know more about things discussed in this study may go to
them.
6 Medieval Monuments in India
)-

6 '

Though Haryana appeared on the administrative map as a separate state on 1


November 1966, it has been playing an important part in the Indian history, as a
distinct socio cultural unit1, since time immorial. It is situated in the north
western part of India (Lat. 270 39’ to 300 55’ N; long. 740 30’ to 770 34’ E). It sprawls
across 44,212 sq. km and has, according to the 2001 Census, a population of 2,
10,82,989.2 It is bounded by Himachal Pradesh and Punjab in the north, by
Punjab in the west, by Rajasthan in the south and Uttar Pradesh in the east.
Delhi, the national capital, sits majestically on its lap down below on the south
eastern side.3 The Aravali ranges, which stretch from Delhi to Gujarat, pass
through the south eastern parts of the state. There is no perennial river here,
excepting the Yamuna, which touches only the eastern fringes of the state. In
ancient times, however, the Saraswati, the Drashadvati and the Yamuna flowed
through it. Because of its strategic location – on the Khyber Delhi route,
connecting Central Asia with the rest of India, it has been occupying a pride of
place in national history for uncountable centuries and it is precisely for this
reason that the most important strategic parts of it were designated as
Dharmakhshetra.4

1 For a detailed discussion on this point, see K.C. Yadav, ‘Haryana: The Land and People’,
Haryana Research Journal, I, Rewari, 1966; Buddha Prakash (ed.), Glimpses of Haryana
(Kurukshetra: The University of Kurukshetra, 1967); K.C. Yadav, Haryana Pradesh Ka Itihas.
(New Delhi: Manohar, 1995); Chander Pal Singh, Early Medieval Art of Haryana. (Delhi: Koshal
Book Depot, 2003).
2 The Census of India, 2001, Series 7, X.
3 For other details of the location of the State, see K.C. Yadav, HRJ, op. cit., 1; on its geo –
strategic location see, K. C. Yadav, Haryana: Itihas Evam Sanskirti, I (New Delhi: Manohar,
1992), 1 25.
4 Explaining this point Dr. Buddha Prakash says: ‘Every inch of this territory is a holy place
and a pilgrimage, where people have been coming from all parts of the country with a
religious motive and a burning faith in the sacredness of its soil. This religious sanctity
8 Medieval Monuments in India
! "

The origin of the name Haryana is a matter of dispute among scholars.


According to one source, the name is derived its name from Hari,5 Lord Krishna
who visited this region every now and then. Another source has attributed the
name to Raja Harishchandra, who is said to have come from Avadh at some
undefined period and peopled the tract.6 It is also argued that according to
Rigveda, there was a king named as Haryan who gave his name to the region.7
Another view is that the name has come from Har,8 the Lord Mahadeva, who was
worshipped and is being worshipped even today very popularly by the people of
this area. Dr Buddha Prakash says that since this region was inhabited by the
Abhiras during the post Mahabharata period, it came to be called after them
Abhirayana =Ahirayana= Hirayna = Hariyana.9 All these views are based on
guesses and speculations; none of their propounders has given any historical
evidence in support of his contention. The most plausible view seems to be that
the name comes from its greenery it was once virtually a green forest –
Haritaryanaka.
An inscription from Bijolia10 of Vikram Samvat 1226 (1169 A.D.) refers to
the region as Haritānaka perhaps a corrupt form of Haritaryanaka. In a
fragmentary Chahamana Prasasti of Ajmer Museum, Arnoraja is mentioned as
‘carrying arms into the Haritānaka country. His soldiers march rendered muddy
the waters of river Kalindi (the Yamuna) and the women of the HaritāĦaka
country shed tears.’11 Ladanu Inscription12 (now in Ajmer Museum) of the time
of Qutbuddin (1206 10) mentions Dhilli (Delhi) as a big town in the country of
HaritaĦa (Haryana). The position is, thus, this: Haritaryanaka – Haritānaka –
HaritaĦa. A Palam Baoli Inscription13 of the time of Balban Vikram Samvat 1337

enshrines the military importance of this region, and its spiritual association encases the
material advantage that ensues from its proper protection. A region, on the security of which
the destiny of millions of men depends, cannot but be the land of highest religious purity and
cultural significance.’ Buddha Prakash, Glimpses of Haryana (Kurukshetra: The University of
Kurukshetra, 1967), 11.
5 See The Imperial Gazetteer of India, XIII, 54.
6 Hisar District Gazetteer, Lahore, 1904, 5.
7 G. Avasthi, Ved Dharatal, 779 quoted by K. C. Yadav, Modern Haryana: History and Culture
(New Delhi: Manohar Publishers, 2002), 14.
8 Bhagwandev, Vir Bhumi Haryana: Name or Seema (Hindi), (Gurukul Jhajjar: Haryana Sahitya
Sansthan, 1965), 44.
9 K. C. Yadav, Haryana Research Journal, op. cit., 1.
10 India Antiquary, XX, Bombay, 133.
11 Dasharath Sharma, Early Chauhan Dynasties (Delhi: S. Chand, 1959), 45.
12 Proceeding of Asiatic Society of Bangal, Calcutta, 1906 07, 31; Epigraphia Indica, XII, 17 27; S. R.
Phogat, Inscriptions of Haryana (Kurukshetra: Vishal Publications, 1978), 36; Y. D. Sharma,
Delhi and its Neighbourhood (New Delhi: Archaeological Survey of India, 2001), 15.
13 Epigraphia Indica, V, Appendix, 34; Rajenderlala Mitra, ‘Notes on the Palam Baoli Inscription’,
JASB (New Series, XLIII, Part 1 No. 1 4, 1874), 104 –110; Y. D. Sharma, op. cit., 15.
Historical Background 9
(1280 A.D.) says HariyaĦaka (Haryana) was ruled by the Tomaras, etc. The word
‘Hariyanaka’ seems to have dropped from the name somehow which made
Haritanaka as Haryanaka. According to the Delhi Museum Inscription14 "There is a
region called Haryana which is like a heaven on earth" Vikrami Samwat, 1385”.
Haryanaka has become simple Haryana here. Thus the whole journey was
Haritaryanaka – Harityanaka – Haritanaka Haritana Haryanaka Haryana.

6 '

History of Haryana is as old as the history of India. The region was the cradle of
our civilization. There are traces of the ‘early man’ in the Aravali ranges in the
south and the Morni Hills (Shivaliks) in the north.15 The excavation at Siswal
(Hisar) and some other sited reveal the presence of the pre chalcolithic people
here in some good numbers.16 Some later sites attest the living of the Late
Harappans.17 A good crop of sites belong to Aryans18 and it was with the touch
of these men that Haryana appeared on the map of the country in a big way.
It was in the Rigvedic period that the region reached the farthest limit of
civilizational excellence. In literature, art and other things, it occupied pride of
place. Unfortunately, we do not have anything building, no monument of any
sort relating to these people or their successors – of the later Vedic period
which might be of some use for our study. We are, however, lucky after moving
into the so called Pushpabhuti or Harsha period. The great King of Thanesar
ruled over not only his ancestral kingdom of Haryana but the entire northern
India – he was called Sakalauttradhipati. There are remains of his forts, palaces
and mansions at Thanesar but these are not in a good state, that these could be
studied now.

14 Eggeline, E., ‘Inscription in the Delhi Museum’ EI, I, 93 95.


15 See K. C. Yadav, Haryana Ka Itihas, I (Delhi: Macmillan India Ltd, 1981), 44 55.
16 See Surajbhan, Siswal: A Pre Harappan Sites in Dhrisdavati Valley, Puratattva, 5, New Delhi,
1971 2, 44 46; Surajbhan, ‘Early Settlements in Haryana: A Study in the Urbanisation’, JHS,
VIII (Kurukshetra: Kurukshetra University, 1976), 1 13.
17 For details of the Late Harappan see, R. S. Bist, ‘A New Harappan Site in Haryana’, Men and
Environment, II, 1978, 78; A. K. Sharma, ‘Animal Skeletal Remains from Mizapur,
Kurukshetra’, Puratattva, 26, New Delhi, 1996, 96 104; Arun Kesarwani, ‘Balu: A Fortified
Rural Settlement in Haryana’, Puratattva, 31, New Delhi, 2001, 140 152; Manmohan Kumar,
‘Dispersal of Settlements in Haryana from Early Harappan to Late Harappan Periods’,
Puratattva, 34, New Delhi, 2004, 25 29; Dalip K. Chakrabarti (ed), ‘Bhagwanpura: A Late
Harappan Site in Haryana’, Indus Civilizations in India: New Discoveries (Mumbai: Marg
Publications, 2004), 44 51.
18 For details of the Aryan see, Manmohan Kumar and others, ‘A Preliminary Report of Faunal
Remains from Madina, Rohtak District, Haryana’ Puratattva, 38, New Delhi, 2008, 222 28; J S
Khatri & M Acharya, ‘Kunal: A New Indus Saraswati Site’ Puratattva, 25, New Delhi, 1995,
84 85; Dalip K. Chakrabarti (ed), ‘Bhagwanpura: A Late Harappan Site in Haryana’, Indus
Civilizations in India: New Discoveries (Mumbai: Marg Publications, 2004), 44 51.
10 Medieval Monuments in India
After sometime, the Pratiharas came. And then, finally, there came the
Chauhanas – Prithviraja, to be precise. Prithviraja was an able king. But he was
not destined to rule over his kingdom for long. He seems to have preferred a life
of ease of a king to the hard life of a general. As a result, he lost his kingdom to
Shahibud din Ghori in 1192 at Taraori, a small town not far away from Karnal.

Though victor in the second battle of Tarain, 1192, Shahibud din Ghori,19 could
not remain in India for long to enjoy the benefit of his victory. He had to rush to
Ghor to save his kingdom form invaders, and there he died in 1206. His slave
and general, who controlled the affairs of his Indian possessions, Qutbud din
Aibak took the reigns of hakumat in his hands and became Sultan of his newly
founded Sultanate of Delhi. He ruled for about four years (1206 1210). He built
many monuments, the well known among which were Quwwatul Islam’
Mosque, Qutb Minar at Mehrauli (incomplete) and Arhai din ka Jhopra’ at Ajmer.
After him the following Sultans of Mamluk dynasty (1206 – 1290) ruled over the
Delhi kingdom:

Aram Shah (1210 1210)


Shamsu din Iltutmash (1210 1235)
Ruknu din Feroz Shah (1235 1236)
Razia Sultan Begum (1236 1239)
Mu izzud din Bahram Shah (1239 1241)
Alaud din Mas’sud Shah (1241 – 1245)
Nasiru din Mahmud Shah (1245 1265)
Ghiyasu din Balban (1265 1287)
Mu’izzu din Kaiqubad (1287 1290)

They were rulers of different standing and stature. They built many
monuments mosques, minar, mausoleums and so forth.20 They did not build

19 See, N. Jayapalan, History of India: Upto 1206 A.D., I, (New Delhi: Atlantic, 2001), 186 – 87.
20 For a detail discussion of these monuments, see R. Nath, History of Sultanate Architecture,
(New Delhi: Abhinav Publication, 1978), 9 42; K.V. Soundara Rajan, Islam Builds in India:
Cultural Study in Islamic Architecture, (Delhi: Agam Kala Prakashan, 1983), 1 9; R. Nath,
Studies in Medieval Indian Architecture, (New Delhi: M. D. Publications, 1995), 1 15; Satish
Grover, Islamic Architecture in India, (New Delhi: Galgotia Publishing Company, 1996), 1 17;
Percy Brown, Indian Architecture: Islamic Period, (Bombay: D B Taraporevala Sons & Co.,
1997), 9 15; Bianca Maria Alfieri, Islamic Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent, (London:
Mapin Publications, 2000), 21 29; Y. D. Sharma, Delhi: And Its Neighbourhood, (New Delhi:
Archaeological Survey of India, 2001), 17 20; Merklinger, E. S., Sultanate Architecture of Pre
Mughal India, (Delhi: Munshiram Manoharlal Publishers Pvt. Ltd., 2005), 17 31.
Historical Background 11
any monument in our region. Their some noble seems to have built a tomb at
Panipat which survives to this day. This tomb has been studied here at length.21
After Mamluk, the Khaljis came. Firuz Shah (1290 1295) established their
rule. He was called Jalalud din Khalji. After him the following Khalji Sultan
ruled over the Sultanate:

Ruknu din Ibrahim Shah (1295 1295)


Alau din Khalji (1295 1315)
Shahabu din Umar (1315 1316)
Qutbu din Mubarak Shah (1316 1321)
Nasiru din Khusro Khan (1321 1321)

These Sultans also built many monuments22 – Siri, Alai Darwaza, reservoir,
Jama’at Khana mosque. Of their monuments, two are found in Haryana and these
have been studied here at length.23
After Khaljis came the Tughlaqs. Ghiyasu din (1321 1324) invested the
kingdom from Nasiru din Khusro Khan, the last of the Khaljis. He was
succeeded by the following rulers:

Muhammad Adil Shah Tughlaq (1324 1351)


Firoz Shah Tughlaq (1351 1388)
Ghiyasu din Tughlaq Shah II (1388 1388)
Abu Bakr Shah (1388 1389)
Nasiru din Muhammad Shah (1389 1392)
Alau’d din Sikander Shah (1392 1393)
Nasiru din Nusrat Shah (till 1413)

There was a lot of building activity during their rule. They built a large
number of forts, palaces, masjids, mausoleums and reservoirs.24 Of their
monuments, 12 are found in our region and these have been studied in detail.25

21 For a detail discussion on this tomb, see Chapter 4: Tombs. 46 47.


22 For a detail discussion of these monuments, see R. Nath, History of Sultanate Architecture,
(New Delhi: Abhinav Publication, 1978), 45 51; Satish Grover, Islamic Architecture in India,
(New Delhi: Galgotia Publishing Company, 1996), 19 23; Percy Brown, Indian Architecture:
Islamic Period, (Bombay: D B Taraporevala Sons & Co., 1997), 16 19; Bianca Maria Alfieri,
Islamic Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent, (London: Mapin Publications, 2000), 31 34; Y. D.
Sharma, Delhi: And Its Neighbourhood, (New Delhi: Archaeological Survey of India, 2001), 21
223; E. S. Merklinger, Sultanate Architecture of Pre Mughal India, (Delhi: Munshiram
Manoharlal Publishers Pvt. Ltd., 2005), 32 34.
23 For a detail discussion, see Chapter 4: Tombs, 48 49 and Chapter 6: Forts, Gates, Baradaris,
Gardens, etc, 124 127.
24 For a detail discussion of these monuments, see R. Nath, History of Sultanate Architecture,
(New Delhi: Abhinav Publication, 1978), 52 75; Abha Rani, Tughlaq Architecture of Delhi,
(Varanasi: Bharati Prakashan, 1991); R. Nath, Studies in Medieval Indian Architecture, (New
Delhi: M. D. Publications, 1995), 19 32; Satish Grover, Islamic Architecture in India, (New Delhi:
12 Medieval Monuments in India
After the Tughlaqs, there came the Sayyids. Their chieftain, Khizr Khan
(1414 1421), defeated Nasiru din Nusrat Shah, the last of the Tughlaqs and
established his rule. He reigned for seven years. He was succeeded by the
following rulers:

Mu’izzu din Abul Fateh Mubarak Shah (1421 1433)


Muhammad Shah (1433 1445)
Alaud din Alam Shah (1445 1451)

As compared to the earlier rulers, the Sayyids contribution in building


moments is pretty weak.26 Yet only one tomb is found in our region, and studied
here this tomb in depth.27
After the Sayyids came the Lodis. Bahlol Lodi (1451 1488) overthrew the
last or the Sayyids and founded Lodi dynasty. After him the following Sultans
ruled over the Sultanate:

Sikandar Lodi (1488 1517)


Ibrahim Lodi (1517 1526)

We have four tombs and one mosque of their times built in Haryana and
these have been studied them in detail.28
Babur snatched his Indian kingdom from the last of Lodis, Ibrahim, at
Panipat (1526) and carved out the Mughal dynasty. He ruled for four years
(1526 1530). He was succeeded by the following rulers:

Galgotia Publishing Company, 1996), 23 35; Percy Brown, Indian Architecture: Islamic Period,
(Bombay: D B Taraporevala Sons & Co., 1997), 20 25; Bianca Maria Alfieri, Islamic
Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent, (London: Mapin Publications, 2000), 37 48; Y. D.
Sharma, Delhi: And Its Neighbourhood, (New Delhi: Archaeological Survey of India, 2001), 23
28; E. S. Merklinger, Sultanate Architecture of Pre Mughal India, (Delhi: Munshiram Manoharlal
Publishers Pvt. Ltd., 2005), 36 46.
25 There are 12 monuments – Lat ki Masjid, Bahadur Nahar Mosque, Pathariya Masjid, Idgah,
Shah Wilayat Tomb, Chor Gumbad, Firoz Shah Fort, Bahadur Nahar Fort, Ni’mat Ullah Gate,
Tosham Baradari, Gujari Mahal and a well. For a detailed discussion, see Chapter 3:
Mosques, Chapter 4: Tombs, Chapter 6: Forts, Gates, Baradaris, Gardens, etc and Chapter 7:
Baolis, Tanks and Wells.
26 For a detail discussion of these monuments, see Satish Grover, Islamic Architecture in India,
(New Delhi: Galgotia Publishing Company, 1996), 105 106; Percy Brown, Indian Architecture:
Islamic Period, (Bombay: D B Taraporevala Sons & Co., 1997), 26 27; Bianca Maria Alfieri,
Islamic Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent, (London: Mapin Publications, 2000), 51 53; Y. D.
Sharma, Delhi: And Its Neighbourhood, (New Delhi: Archaeological Survey of India, 2001), 28
30; E. S. Merklinger, Sultanate Architecture of Pre Mughal India, (Delhi: Munshiram Manoharlal
Publishers Pvt. Ltd., 2005), 47 50.
27 For a detail discussion on this tomb, see Chapter 4: Tombs, 52 54.
28 For a detail discussion on these monuments, see Chapter 3: Mosques, 27 – 28; and Chapter 4:
Tombs, 54 62.
Historical Background 13
Humayun (1530 1540, 1555 1556)
Akbar (1556 1605)
Jahangir (1605 1628)
Shahjahan (1628 1658)
Aurangzeb (1658 1707)

These rulers are called ‘The Great Mughals.’ There was a lot of building
activity in their reigns.29 Shahjahan, as is well known, was a great builder. We
have found many monuments in our region of their times.
For some time after Humayun came to power, a rebel Sur, Sher Shah
invested his Indian empire for him. He was a great king who, during a short
reign, built many monumental, buildings. His grandfather’s tomb of Narnaul is a
most spectacular building in medieval India.30
129 monuments of different types, shapes, sizes have been studied. Most
of them have received or will receive parabolic attention, in this study, for the
first time. The auther have given their present status and situation in clear terms
and have made, implicitly though, for their proper protection and conservation,
for if we lose our heritage we lose a part of our life.

29 For a detail discussion of these monuments, see R. Nath, Some Aspects of Mughal Architecture,
(New Delhi: Abhinav Publications, 1976); History of Mughal Architecture, V vols., (New Delhi:
Abhinav Publications, 1985); Fatehpur Sikri: Forms, Techniques & Concepts, (Jaipur: The
Historical Research Documentation Programme, 1988); Studies in Medieval Indian Architecture,
(New Delhi: M. D. Publications, 1995), 69 160; Satish Grover, Islamic Architecture in India,
(New Delhi: Galgotia Publishing Company, 1996), 110 113 and 120 173; Percy Brown, Indian
Architecture: Islamic Period, (Bombay: D B Taraporevala Sons & Co., 1997), 88 116; Bianca
Maria Alfieri, Islamic Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent, (London: Mapin Publications,
2000), 21 29; Y. D. Sharma, Delhi: And Its Neighbourhood, (New Delhi: Archaeological Survey
of India, 2001), 32 34 & 37 47; E. S. Merklinger, Sultanate Architecture of Pre Mughal India,
(Delhi: Munshiram Manoharlal Publishers Pvt. Ltd., 2005), 17 31.
30 For a detail discussion on this great mausoleum, see Chapter 4: Tombs, 63 67.
14 Medieval Monuments in India
)7

4'

The mosque or masjid, also called maseet in interior Haryana needs no formal
introduction. Masjid is an Arabic term, which literally means ‘a place where one
prostrates oneself’ (before God) or completely surrenders to Him.1 The Quranic
verse says that, ‘verily the mosque is a place for God; hence invoke not anyone
else with God therein, (Quran, chapter LXXII, verse 18).2 A mosque normally
consists of a courtyard open to the sky, enclosed by walls. Earlier, the walls of
houses around it made the enclosure, and as a protection from the sun the
Prophet later extended the flat roof from the adjacent building to cover the whole
open court. In reciting their prayers the worshippers used to arrange themselves
in ranks parallel to end facing the wall, originally towards Jerusalem and later
toward Macca.3
The structure, the design, the style of the masjids changed with the times,
and the terrains these were located in usually, these are brick or stone structures,
with a rectangular open space or sahn, the four side being enclosed by pillared
cloisters or dalans, with a tank or well in the centre for ablutions, a ceremony
described as ‘the half of faith and the key of prayer’. The structure is covered
with one or more than one domes. Being a very important and indispensable
place of Muslim prayer, it gives several basic directions. It denotes the direction
(Qibla) in which all Muslims must turn their faces while praying wherever they
may be. Its back wall contains a recess or alcove in the middle, called a mihrab
indicating Qibla. On the right hand of the mihrab stands the mimbar or pulpit on
which the Imam stands while delivering his address as an integral part of the
weekly Friday or two Id prayers (Figure 1). A minaret is also added to the

1 Ziyaud Din A. Desai, Mosques of India (Delhi: Publication Division, Government of India,
1966), 5.
2 Ibid., 6 7.
3 Philip K. Hitti, History of the Arabs (London: Gateway Books, 1994), 258 59.
16 Medieval Monuments in India
mosque so that the call to prayers (Ajan) given from the top of it could be heard
to greater advantage from an elevation higher than the surrounding buildings.4
These are the essential parts comprising a mosque structure.

Figure 1 : Sketch showing elements of a mosque


(Source: P.K. Sharma, Mughal Architecture of Delhi)

" 4'

1. Mihrab (arch)
2. Mimbar (pulpit)
3. Mukabbar (platform)
4. Vazu (ablution)
5. Dalan (cloisters)
6. Iwan (portal)
7. Minar (minaret)
8. Liwan (sanctuary or prayer hall)
9. Sehan or Sahn (courtyard)

4 Ziyaud Din A. Desai, op. cit., 8 9; Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments in the Punjab and
Haryana (Delhi: Inter India Publications, 1985), 40; Percy Brown, Indian Architecture: Islamic
Period (Mumbai: D.B. Taraporevala Sons and Co. Pvt. Ltd., 1997), 3.
Mosques 17
In India, the history of mosque architecture as such does not go back
beyond the last decade of the thirteenth century. The same is the case with
Haryana. The mosques came here in the same period. Some of the most
important mosques in Haryana (Map 2) are as follows:

Map 2: Mosques in Haryana (Not to scale)


18 Medieval Monuments in India
! 2 2 ! 89 :

# # 4' ; , # #1

1. Lat ki Masjid Hisar 1351 1388


2. Idgah and Column Fatehabad 1351 1388
3. Pathariya Mosque Thanesar 1351 1411
4. Bahadur Khan Mosque Kotla (Mewat) 1400
5. Ababakr Jalwani Mosque Hansi 1491
6. Kabuli Bagh Mosque Panipat 1528
7. Jama Masjid Meham 1531
8. Humayun Mosque Fatehabad 1539
9. Jama Masjid Kaithal 1530 40
10. Chini Masjid Thanesar 1565 66
11. Qazi Mosque Sadhora (Y. Nagar) 1641 42
12. Abdul Wahab Mosque Sadhora (Y. Nagar) 1669 70
13. Dana Sher Mosque Hisar 1694 95
14. Ghuriyun Mosques Hansi Mughal

*# < =

The main mosque of the Firoz Shah Palace complex at Hisar is known as Lat ki
Masjid (Plate 1). It is located to the south of the complex and just opposite the
main entrance gate. The mosque is called after the Lat, an ancient column re
erected in the north east of its courtyard.5 The mosque is one of the batter known
monuments of the district and together with its column has attracted the
attention of a number of scholars.6 The walls of the mosque are of blocks of
sandstone up to the level of the springing of the vaults but the upper parts of the
walls and the roof are of red bricks. This is one of the rare examples of a Firoz
Shahi building in which brick is used. The mosque is a combination of building
having an L shaped ablution tank, gatehouse and Lat (pillar). It is built on a
platform and battered on outside. It is built of red and buff sandstone and rubble
having thick plaster over it. The building has a prayer hall of nine bays on the
western side of a courtyard (Plate 2).
The Lat7 in the mosque was first brought to light by Captain Bird in 1838.8
This column is in the form of a finial and an iron rod is set at the top, making it

5 Capt. Bird had rightly assumed it to be a Lat erected by Piyadasi.


6 K. V. Soundara Rajan, Islam Builds in India: Cultural Study in Islamic Architecture (Delhi: Agam
Kala Prakashan, 1983), 81 83; ASI Report, V, 1875, 140 41.
7 The idea of the minar along with its symbolism was borrowed, at the initial stage, from the
Buddhist dhvaja stambha or kirtti stambha. The mauryan monolithic column marks another
stage of the development of the same symbolic pillar, the yupa. It bore a Dharma Chakra or
Dhvaja Stambha . it was symbolical, pure and simple. It was as much symbolical and
ceremonious as was pillar in the shrine of the Moon God at Ur. This demonstrates the real
Mosques 19
about 13.75 m high altogether. The lower part is a re used ancient shaft in a
single piece of yellow stone, which is about 10 feet 4 inches high and 8 feet 7
inches in circumference at the base.9 The stone is badly eroded and at present
there is no inscription on its surface. According to Cunningham, the visitors on
the ancient site of the column wrote a number of brief inscriptions in the 1st
century. He also mentions that the stone may be part of a shaft, the other part of
which is found in an Idgah at Fatehabad.10 Cunningham’s suggestion may be
correct since the column at Fatehabad is, in many ways, comparable to the Lat in
Hisar and its lower part is also a part of the shaft of an ancient column. Firoz also
raised a Lat in his mosque at Kotla Firoz Shah Delhi, Jaunpur Fort and at Dhar in
M.P.
The pillars supporting the arches in the mosque may be re used material
from ancient Indian temples of Agroha. The shafts of the columns are divided
into four parts square, octagonal, sixteen sided and round. Their upper
members are fluted.11 The columns are all of a similar type but there are slight
variations in their decoration, showing floral and geometrical designs in low
relief. Interestingly a double row of columns is also used in the mosque. This
arrangement is commonly seen in the Madrasa at Hauz i Khas and the Firoz
Shahi mosque in Delhi.12
The central mihrab of the mosque is rectangular on plan (Plate 3) and
recessed behind the qibla wall. It is built out of carved stone and consists of a
series of cusped arches, set in a rectangular frame. Both, this frame and the
innermost arch, rest on pilasters carved in the form columns with vase shaped
bases and capitals. The other bays have smaller secondary mihrabs and above
them are small window openings with pierced jālīs. In the southern wall of the
prayer hall are two arched doors, both with an additional cross lintel at the level
of the springing of the arch. The double pilasters of the corner pier still stand but
the upper part of the wall have been consolidated and no remains of arches can
be seen.
In the northern corner of the mosque is a small gallery in the form of a
mezzanine13 standing on eight square columns and eight pilasters (Plate 4). This

meaning and purpose of the ‘minar’ unequivocally: here obviously no mazinah is involved,
yet the monolithic pillar, with no stairway inside or outside it, is called a minar. Thus the
idea is more symbolic than functional and the minar is the ceremonial part of the mosque, as
was the dhvaja stambha of the Budhist vihara. (R. Nath, Mosque Architecture. Jaipur: the
Historical Reseach Documentation Programme, 1994, 46 60.)
8 James Prinsep, Journal of Asiatic Society of Bengal, VII, Calcutta, 1838, 425 30.
9 Rodgers, Revised List of the Objects of Archaeological Interest in the Punjab, Lahore, 1891, 64;
Devendra Handa, Heritage of Haryana II: Buddhist Remains (Chandigarh: Department of
Archaeology and Museum, Haryana, 1989), 12.
10 A. Cunningham, ASI Report, V, (reprint. Delhi: Rahul Publishing House, 1994), 140 42.
11 Rodgers, Revised List, 64.
12 K. V. Soundara Rajan, op. cit., 81.
13 The mezzanine is mentioned with its traditional name Zanana or women’s gallery.
20 Medieval Monuments in India
gallery has its own mihrab, the outer arch of which is decorated with a spearhead
fringe. At either side of the mihrab there is a niche for candles. Galleries of this
type are common in Indian mosque and are known by the term Zanana, the area
for the use of women.14 However, not every mosque has a secluded area of this
kind, as there is requirement in Islam for women to pray in a separate part of a
mosque. The terms used in Indian mosques, as muluk khana (the ruler’s chamber).
There is no doubt that the mezzanine gallery of the Lat ki Masjid was designed as
the royal chamber, to be used by the Sultan or the governor at the time of public
prayers. The gallery is reached from the prayer hall by steps on its eastern side.
The access is a narrow passage built into the northern wall of the mosque,
connecting the north colonnade with the bay in front of the gallery, and also the
roof of the mosque.15
Northern wing of the mosque is having remains of only three bays. This
wing is not open to the prayer hall but has access to it through a passage. A
narrow arched niche in the center of the wall at the western end gives a central
point to the end of the arcade. On the other side of the wall another niche is
provided but it is placed in the center of the bay. At the south east end of the
prayer hall the niches of the eastern wall of the end bay are arranged in the same
way, indicating that there was a corresponding southern wing, symmetrical with
the other side. On the south eastern side of the courtyard has a pond, which
shows that water played an important role in the Lat ki Mosque.
The north east side of the courtyard is a square domed chamber, open on
all sides. It has massive corner piers faced with dressed red sandstone. The four
openings are on the level of the courtyard of the mosque and are in the form of a
four centered arch set in a rectangular frame but at the level of the springing of
the arch there is in a cross lintel supported on the brackets resting on pilasters.
Above each lintel a pierced jālīs fills in the arch. Internally, it has half dome
pendentives on the corners & in the centre and single wedge squinch blocks on
the point of view of the octagon and small wall niches on the square sidewalls.16
The roof is reached by a flight of steps built on south western side. Steps in the
north western pier lead from the outside to a vaulted crypt beneath, which can
also be reached from the inside of the chamber by another flight of steps in the
north eastern pier.17 There is, however, no trace of a grave.
The Gatehouse is of the same type as Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq’s tomb, Lal
Bangla, Bijaymandal top structure and in fact quite a few such in plaster cover
and like the Jahaj Mahal inner gatehouse here itself in Hisar on its outskirts.18 But

14 Binaca Maria Alfieri, Islamic Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent (London: Calmann and
King, 2000), 47.
15 Mehrdad Shokoohy, and N. H. Shokoohy, Hisar i Firuza (London: School of Oriental and
African Studies, 1988), 32 38.
16 K. V. Soundara Rajan, op. cit., 82
17 Mehrdad Shokoohy, and N. H. Shokoohy, op. cit., 38.
18 K. V. Soundara Rajan, op. cit., 82.
Mosques 21
there is no grave inside the gatehouse. The building may also be same as the
Ala’i Darwaza near Quwwat ul Islam mosque, Delhi. The local tradition says that
it connects with undergrounds passage leading to Hansi. Another tradition tells
us that it was meant for keeping the imperial treasures and guarded by soldiers.
It seems that it was used as an independent gatehouse.

-# Idgah ' ,( %

The only surviving monument in Fatehabad, dating from the time of its
founding, is the celebrated column of Firoz Shah, located at the Purana Qila.
According to Cunningham, ‘It was set up by Firoz Shah’s eldest son, Fateh
Khan’.19 It is now in the center of an Idgah used by the Muslim community of the
town, its foundation reflects that it was meant for this purpose in the past as
well.20 Idgah is built of red bricks (Plate 5). On the qibla side wall there are five
mihrabs; the central mihrab has a cusped arch and others four centered arches.
There are no traces of any Firoz Shahi structure associated with the column but
as the other entire column erected by the Sultan were set up in conjunction with
a building on the site of the Fatehabad column.
There are two inscriptions in the Idgah, first related to the Humayun
mosque is affixed on the left of the central mihrab of the Idgah wall. It is of ten
lines, measuring 2’.3” by 1’.5”, is light coloured rectangular sandstone. The
translation of the inscription21 is as under:

“In the name, etc. “The prophet, upon whom be peace, says, ‘He who builds,
etc’. This mosque was finished in the days of the reign of the great king, the
exalted prince, the master of the necks of crowds of nations among the Indians,
Turks, Arabs, and Persians, who raises the standard of holy strife and war,
Muhammad Humayun, Badishah i Ghazi, May God Almighty perpetuate his
kingdom (and guide) his ship in the seas of His favour! — through the exertion of
the auspicious dignitary, the cream of the accomplished among men, the issue of
great Amirs, Amir Rustam Beg, son of his highness the pardoned and purified
chosen Amir Muhammad ‘Ali, God Almighty * * * on the 2nd of the month
Ramazan A. 945 (the 22nd January 1539). The superintendent of the work (was)
the poor’ Abdul Karim”.

Second inscription is to the north of the outer wall of the Idgah. The
translation of the inscription22 is as under:

19 A. Cunningham, ASI Report, V, 142.


20 Garrick, ASI Report, XXIII, 11.
21 P. Horn, EI, 424 25; Garrick, op. cit., 12; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions in The Punjab,
Haryana and Himachal Pradesh (New Delhi: Inter India Publications, 1985), 18 19; R. S. Phogat,
Inscriptions of Haryana (Kurukshetra: Vishal Publications, 1978), 93 95.
22 P. Horn, EI, II, 425 26; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 19 20; R.S. Phogat, Inscriptions of
Haryana, 95.
22 Medieval Monuments in India
“In the name etc. Invoke’ Ali, the manifestor of miracles; though wilt find him for
thy help in adversities. Every care and every sorrow will surely vanish through
thy prophetship, O Muhammad, through thy saintliness, O’Ali, O’Ali, O’Ali”

The ancient column is in two parts. The lower part is in one piece of
yellow sandstone and appears to be original part of an ancient column, redressed
and inscribed in Persian. Between the two parts is a round slab of white stone
and the upper part is composed of four drums of red sandstone, apparently
made to make the column taller. The column is topped with a hemisphere made
out of two pieces of white stone resting on a fluted collar of red sandstone. The
total height of the column from the ground level is 5 m and more than a meter of
ancient shaft must be buried in the ground to give the column stability.
While the column at Fatehabad is not recorded in histories, from the
content of the inscription it is clear that the column was a monument to
commemorate the Sultanate of the Tughlaq Sultans, particularly of Firoz Shah.

7# 2 + Mosque, Thanesar

This mosque is only a few yards away from the south west corner of the madrasa
(Plate 6) and north of the ‘Harsh ka Tila’ (mound). It is built on a high platform
and has massive walls, battered on the outside with the red bricks wall. It is built
partly of red and buff sandstone. The mosque has a prayer hall of five bays on
the western side of a courtyard. The walls of the mosque are blocks of sandstone
up to the level of the ceilings. It is 37’ long by 11’.5” broad23 from inside,
supported on 8 pillars and 6 pilasters (Figure 2). In this mosque, trabeate style
has been used, in which horizontal beams and lintels are used. The roof is
reached by a flight of steps built in the southern side.
According to Rodgers the materials were from Hindu or Jaina temples but
all the designs employed in this mosque were use in Mohammadan buildings in
the time of the Lodis and Akbar.24 There are stones in the stairs leading up to the
mosque, which are may be the parts of the ruins of old temples. But it inclines to
think that this mosque was built with the materials from Agra. There are pink
sandstone pillars supporting the flat ceiling of the prayer hall. The shafts of the
columns are of a similar type but there are slight variations in their carving
decoration. In this mosque a double row of columns are also used. This
arrangement is commonly seen in the buildings of the Tughlaq period.

23 A. Cunningham, ASI Report 1863 64, II, 222.


24 Rodgers, Report of Punjab Circle of the A.S.I. for the year 1888 89, Calcutta, 1891, 10.
Mosques 23

Figure 2 : Ground plan of Pathariya Masjid, Thanesar (Not to scale)

There is jālīs window is affixed in the southern side25 and northern side
has an open archway. The lower jālīs is oblong and upper jālīs is triangular. At

25 Rodgers mentioned in his report that in the north wall is a trellis window but it is in the
southern wall not to northern wall.
24 Medieval Monuments in India
either side of the jālīs window there are medallions in the spandrels of the arches,
in the form of the inverted lotus. At either side of the niche (Ālā) there is a space
for candle and lamp.
The central mihrab of the mosque is rectangular on plan (Plate 7) and
recessed behind the qibla wall. It is built of red sand stones and consists of three
arches set in a rectangular frame. This outer arch rest on pilasters carved in the
form of columns with vase shaped bases. The other bays also have smaller
secondary mihrabs. At either sides of the mihrab, there are medallions in the
spandrels of the arches, in the form of the inverted lotus and inscribed Allah in
Persian. Ornamentation is chiefly in carved designs consisting of typically Hindu
motifs as lotus and geometrical patterns. The Islamic talisman of strength and
victory is abundantly depicted on mihrab and arched niches.
An amazing variety of flat ceiling has been used in the Pathariya mosque
and this is, undoubtedly, its most distinctive characteristic. The geo physical
resources, mainly the available building material: wood, brick or stone,
determined the form he evolved by and large, that arch and vault were used
where brick was available; and the lintel and flat ceilings where stone was the
building material.26 These ceiling has been used here most abundantly and in
wide variety. Large massive stone beams and slabs are used to roof both square
and oblong spaces on a trabeate system. It is formed into eight parallelograms. In
this mosque, the oblong flat roof is divided into several compartments with the
help of cross beams supported on brackets decorated with floral and geometric
designs (Plate 8).
There are two sloping fluted minarets at each outer end of the western
wall, which have alternatively round and angular flutes27. The major element
that lends majesty to the structure is double storeyed tapering bastion at each of
its two corners, very much like those of the first storey of the Qutb Minar.
Presumably, its architect got the inspiration from the Qutb Minar. The upper
storey has rounded. On the parapet there is a merlon design, which decorates
the sanctuary hall.
There is no inscription on the mosque. General Cunningham attributes it
to the time of Firoz Shah. After the study of the Lat ki Masjid at Hisar and
Bahadur Khan’s Mosque at Kotla (Mewat), it can be ascribed to the time of
Tughlaq Period.

># Bahadur Nahar Khan’s Mosque, Kotla

Kotla, seven miles south west of Nuh in district Mewat, was once the capital of
the khanzada chief Bahadur Nahar Khan. It is now only a small village of a few
houses. The name of Kotla properly belongs to the fort on the hill. Cunningham

26 R. Nath, Studies in Medieval Indian Architecture (New Delhi: M.D. Publications Pvt. Ltd., 1995),
101.
27 Rodgers, Revised List, 49; Ram Saran, op. cit., 6.
Mosques 25
assumed that the site was probably chosen for its strategic importance, as it is
protected on the east by the large lake named Dahar, which is from 4 to 5 miles in
length by upwards of 2 miles in breadth.28
This mosque is situated on a high mound in the middle of the village. It is
built with stones blocks. It is the great mosque, contemporary of Timur. The
mosque was begun in the reign of Muhammad Shah, son of Firoz Tughlaq, when,
he occupied Kotla during his campaign against the Mewatis in A.H. 795. The
building was not finished until A.H. 803, Muhammad shah having died A.H.
796.
The mosque stands at the western end of grand courtyard, measuring 92
feet in length to the inner side. It is approached by a grand flight of twenty steps
and then four steps to reach the courtyard. The flight of steps is 15 feet high.
There was a long inscription on the gateway, which gives the date of
construction of the mosque. But at present, there is neither gateway nor any
inscription found on this place. The translation of the inscription29 is as under:

“This Jama masjid was founded in the time of Muhammad shah son of Firoz shah,
by His Highness (Majlis Ali) Bahadur Khan after the desecration of the temple
(Butkhana) in the town of Sambhaliki. Every year the Hindûs used to come in
crowds from all parts to worship the idol. When the Khan heard this, he went
there and pulled down the temple, and with its materials founded this mosque in
the year 795(A.H). Soon after came the Mangol invasion, in which the Khan was
involved. He then made over the work to the Khanzada Hatim Khan. The dome of
the gateway was finished by the exertions of the Jamil Malik Kamar din, and by
the labours of Mukarrab ud din, headman of Shadi. The mosque was finished by
Khwaja Aziz on the 12th of Rabi ul awal, 803 A.H. (Sunday, 31st October 1400
A.D.)”.

This inscription reads very much like a passage from the memoirs of Firoz
Shah, which were written only a few years before his death.30 From this extract,
as well as from other passages in the autobiography of Firoz Tughlaq, it appears
that this much belauded king was an intolerant bigot, who persecutes his Hindu
subjects on account of their religion.
The mosque is 66’ long and 35’ broad outside. It is 59’.5” by 29’.5” inside,
the breadth being just half the length (Figure 3). It consist of three aisles with
seven arched opening to the front, making twenty one spans, of which only the
middle one covered by a very small dome, all the rest having flat roofs. There are
mihrabs in each span of the back wall. To the right side of the central mihrab a six

28 A Cunningham, ASI Report 1882 83, XX, 129 133.


29 Ibid.
30 Elliot, and Dowson, ed., Futuhat i Firoz Shahi, History of Indian as told by its own Historians, III,
(repr. Allahabad, 1964), 380.
26 Medieval Monuments in India
steps mimbar is decorated. Three openings in each end wall are closed by stout
lattices of red stone.

Figure 3: Ground plan of Bahadur Nahar Khan Mosque, Kotla (Mewat)


(Source: Cunningham, ASI)
Mosques 27
This structure is made of square quartzite blocks. At present this mosque
is closed with three doorway and they are closed with wooden doors. In the
southern side, there is a narrow flight of steps for the terrace. The stairs would be
repaired by the local people and red bricks used in place of the quartzite blocks.
The outer corners at the back are strengthened by small sloping minars (Plate 9),
like those of Firoz Shah’s time. The pillars in the south west corner of the
courtyard of the mosque are standing near vazu taps in the decorative manners.
It seems that these pillars are the ancient pillars; it may be re used material from
the ancient Indian temples. It is same as used in the Firoz Shah’s time.
According to Rodgers the architecture of the interior resembles with the
Hindu style.31 The courtyard is bounded on each side by a thick massive wall.
The whole of the south wall had fallen down but now it has been revived by the
local peoples. The red sand stone pillars are laying in the courtyard in a
neglected condition. It may be the tomb’s pillar of Bahadur Nahar Khan.

?# Ababakr Jalwani Mosque, Hansi

The mosque of Ababakr Jalwani is situated to the north west of the Chahar Qutb
shrine. It is also referred to the Shahi Mosque (Plate 10). It is the only building in
the Chahar Qutb complex, which has a dated inscription. The inscription was set
over the central entrance to the prayer hall and recorded the construction date of
the mosque on 21 Rajab 896 AH/30 May 1491 by Ababakr Jalwani,32 a follower of
Shaikh Jamal. The name of the reigning Sultan Sikandar Lodi, son of Bahlol Shah
is given. The inscription,33 in Naskh, measures 2.75’ by 1’ and runs as under:

“Kingdom belongs to God only. During the reign of the king of the dominion
Sikandar Shah, son of Bahlul Shah, the king, may God perpetuate his kingship
and suzerainty, by the guidance of God, the glorious, the slave of the divine
threshold, Ababakr Bam Jilwani, who is one, of the disciples of the hand grasping
Preceptor, the Sultan of the Shaikhs, Shaikh Abu’l Fath, may God bless his
precious soul, at the foot of the grave of the Qutb of all the Qutbs of the world,
Shaikh Jamalu’l Haq wa’sh Shar’wa’d Din, may his dust be of pleasant odour and
may Paradise be his above, and may God illumine his tomb, at the time of
accession to the saintly carpet34 of our master, the Sultan of the Shaikhs, Shaikh
Farid, may God prolong his life, had this mosque erected. Let him who prays in
this mosque remember him by praying for his faith. The writer of these words is
Radi Qutb,35 deputy qadi of Hansi and the agent of the police perfect of * * * a

31 Rodgers, Revised List, 82.


32 Rodgers, Revised List, 69; S. R. Phogat, Inscriptions of Haryana, 90; Garrick, op. cit., 15.
33 M. Wahid Mirza, EI, 1953 54, 3 4; H. Blochmann, PASB (1877), 123; P. Horn, EI, II, 432; S. R.
Phogat, Inscriptions of Haryana, 90 91; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 24 25.
34 Sajjāda (prayer carpet) which together with the Khirqa (mantle) was an emblem of saintly
authority inherited by a disciple from his master.
35 He would appear from his name to be a descendent of Shaikh Jamaluddin Hanswi.
28 Medieval Monuments in India
slaveling of the Eternal Monarch. The 25th of the month of Rajab of exalted rank,
in the year eight hundred and ninety six (3 June 1491 A.D.). The stone carver
(is) Ladhan (?), son of Jalal of Nagaur.”

This mosque measures approximately 7.50 m by 18 m and is solidly built


with thick walls and piers, plastered over and roofed with seven domes.36 The
interior space is arranged with a central square prayer hall flanked by
rectangular bays, which in turn lead to two chambers at each end at ground floor
level and two upper chambers at each end, reached by narrow staircases built
into the piers (Figure 4). The mihrab is in the form of an arched recess (Plate 11),
semi octagonal on plan, with a rectangular projection behind the qibla wall. On
the right side of the mihrab a mimbar is situated and decorated with modern tile
work. In front of this stage the religious persons took gasping and pray to
God/Allah. The profile of the arch has been modified and plaster decoration of
the post Mughal period as seen in other parts of the complex is added over it.

Figure 4 : Ground plan of Ababakr Jalwani Mosque, Hansi

The sanctuary hall has three entrances in the eastern facade, the central
one arched, with a rectangular recessed doorway over which inscribed stone slab
was affixed and two smaller flanking arches leading to the bays but now closed
with bricks. The central prayer hall has the largest dome, standing on a drum
supported by pendentives. The flanking bays have smaller domes and each of
the upper chambers has an even smaller dome. The mosque is plainly decorated,
relying for interest on the clearly defined outlines of the structural members of
the interior and the contrast between the massive piers and the space created.

36 K. V. Soundara Rajan mentioned only the single domes of the bay over the central Mihrab in.
Islam Builds in India, 84 85.
Mosques 29
/# Kabuli Bagh Mosque, Panipat

This is the earliest construction of Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur. In other words


it was built soon after the Mughal rule was proclaimed. In his autobiography,
Babur mentions his continued interest in erecting wells and planting gardens.37
However, this mosque is not mentioned either by him or in any other literary
source. Nevertheless, we can certainly assume that the complex commemorates
Babur’s decisive victory over Sultan Ibrahim Lodi.38 After the first battle of
Panipat in 1526, he laid out a garden, a tank and built a mosque (Plate 12) on the
spot where their two commanders fell.39
There is a controversy over the name of the garden. Some scholars say that
when Babur saw this plain ground he said that the spot was “Qabil i Bagh” (fit
for a garden), and hence this name. Others say that since this garden was laid out
on the pattern of the gardens in Kabul, it was given the name Kabuli Bagh.
Colebrooke gives another interesting reason; he says that Babur gave this name
to the garden after, the name of his Favourite queen Kabuli Begam.40 Percy
Brown too opines ‘there are, however two Mosques which have survived and
have been attributed to this ruler. One is the Kabuli Bagh at Panipat and the
other the Jama Mosque at Sambhol, both building having been erected in 1526
A.D. These are fairly large structures but neither possesses any distinctive
architectural character.’41 At the most, it reflects the continuity of the
architectural style and traditions, as does the Jamali Kamali Masjid near the
Qutub Delhi which was built exactly contemporarrily in 1528 29. Both are
representative of the preceding style. It must be reiterated that the artisans whom
he employed were stone cutters of the Jamuna Chambal Region, who were more
conversant with their own working methods than the typically Muslim tecniques
of construction and ornamentation, which they might have learnt under the
Delhi Sultans.42
This mosque, as it survives, comprises an elaborate Lodi style masonry
gateway. The brick core of this gate is ash layered with carved red sandstone
slab. From the front, the gate is covered with the typical Iranian arch and panel
articulation, which is in the form of empanelling. Further the front façade of this

37 S. A. A. Rizvi, The Wonder that was India, II, (London: Sidgwick and Jackson Ltd., 1996), 29.
38 Rodgers, Revised List, 60; K.C. Yadav, ‘Freak with the Past: A Case for Preserving Precious
Heritage of Haryana,, JHS Monograph, Kurukshetra, 1992. 26; Catherine B. Asher, The New
Cambridge History of India: Architecture of Mughal India (Cambridge: Cambridge University
Press, 2003), 25 28.
39 Buddha Prakash, Glimpses of Haryana (Kurukshetra: University Press, 1967), 51.
40 Colebrooke, Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society, XIII, 279.
41 Percy Brown, Indian Architecture: Islamic Period (Mumbai: D. B. Taraporevala Sons and Co.
Pvt. Ltd., 1997), 88 89; Chand Singh, ‘Panipat: A Study in Medieval Archaeology.’ (Unpublished
M. Phil. Dissertation, Kurukshetra University, 1999), 34 40.
42 R. Nath, Architecture & Site of the Baburi Masjid of Ayodhya, Jaipur: the Historical Research
Documentation Programme, 1991, 22.
30 Medieval Monuments in India
gate is in the form of an unframed articulation within which is provided a
smaller trabeated rectangular opening, the brackets of which are carved with
beautiful and intricate designs.43 There is distinctive pre Mughal influence on
this gateway, perhaps echoes of the Sultanate period. This gate is square on plan,
resulting in a cubical form capped by a semicircular brick dome.44 A close look
on the southern side of the courtyard reveals the foundations of similar gate in
that direction. A modern wall now encloses the eastern portion of the courtyard;
the original wall or its foundations are thus no more visible.45
It has three blind niches in each side, which have decorated spandrels
medallions of inverted lotus.46 In the center of the upper two blind niches have
Satkonas or Star of David decorated with inverted Lotus.47 The main gate is
having true arched. This is divided in two parts, first is curve and other part is
shaft. In the center of the upper portion a blind niche has been used.
The mosque bears three inscriptions in Persian and Arabic on the different
parts. The first inscription48 is on the red sandstone slab over the main gate. It is
measuring 428 cm x 35 cm. The slab is in three parts. Where in the first and the
last portion of the slabs are in very bad shape whereas the middle portion of the
slab is relatively in good shape. The inscription is in verse is as follows:

“In accordance with the saying of the respected Prophet and command of the Lord
of Glory (Allah), (and) at other of gold bestowing lord of bounty, Shah Babur, was
completed the mosque and the well and the Chahar Bagh; the year (A.H.) was
nine hundred and thirty five. The darugha was * * *.The just, the generous and of
an unrivalled good disposition. (It was built) at the instance of the fortunate
Khwaja of the world, Pahalwan, whose name is Muhammad, son of Hasan; master
of excellence. The composer of (these) verses is the afflicted Munshi Sahib, (who)
composed a poem like limpid water by the grace of God.”

The inscription states that the construction was completed through the
efforts of Pahalwan, whose name was Muhammad son of Hasan, the name of the
verifier, given in this inscription, is Munshi Sahib.

43 Naiyer Azam, “Development of Mosque Architecture under Babur”, PIHC, Mysore, 2003,
1407 08.
44 Abha Narain Lambah, op. cit., 65.
45 Naiyer Azam, op. cit., 1407 08.
46 Lotus is an ancient Hindu and Buddhist symbol, which represents the principle of growth, is
widely used in Indian architecture. It also represents as a seat of God because God do not rest
on the earth. (P. K. Sharma, Mughal Architecture of Delhi, 161 162.)
47 Kabuli Mosque was the first Mughal Monument in India; therefore, Star of David was used
in the first time in Kabuli Mosque, after that another Mughal Monuments. (R. Nath, History of
Decorative Art in Mughal Architecture, Delhi: Motilal Banarsidass, 1976, 31).
48 Maulvi M. Asharaf Husain, EIAPS (1965), 53 55; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 54;
Chand Singh Kadiyan, PIHC, 408.
Mosques 31

Figure 5 : Plan of the Kabuli Mosque, Panipat


(Source: Catherine B. Asher, Architecture of Mughal India)

On the south western side of the main gateway, a large central domed bay
flanked on either side by three bayed triple aisled side wings dominates the
rectangular prayer chamber, measuring 53.75 by 16.50 meters (Figure 5). An
arched opening supported on massive piers enters each bay of the side wings.
Over the Mosque, brick construction is a heavy stucco veneer, reminiscent of that
covering much Sultanate architecture.49 The adjoining bays are interconnecting
through the central hall with arched aisles. Each of the mosque’s bays is
surmounted by dome, rising higher than triple aisles on either side. Its south
west portion is in utter ruins.50 The large central bay’s qibla wall is oriented
towards Mecca but elsewhere the vendor on the mosque’s interior is stucco over
a brick core. This central bay is the mosque’s focal point, visible even from the
outside through the wide entrance.51 All the iwans are having arched openings.
The main central iwan is little forward and higher than the flanked bays.
Attention is drawn to the mihrab by an epigraph including the throne verse from

49 Catherine B. Asher, op. cit., 25 28.


50 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 40 41.
51 Ibid, 27.
32 Medieval Monuments in India
the Quran. The sanctuary hall is having sinking mihrab on its western wall (Plate
13). The spandrels of the mihrab are decorated with medallions.
The inscription here clearly suggests that the founder of the garden was
Babur himself. The inscription is over the mihrab (Qibla). It is on a red sandstone
slab measuring 230 cm x 30 cm and contains the inscription in two lines, the first
of which is historical in character and the second contains throne verse. The
language of the historical portion is Persian. The inscription52 has been
deciphered as under:

“The foundation of the mosque of His Majesty, the pole star of the sky of . . .
Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur Badshah i Ghazi—may God perpetuate his kingdom and
suzerainty and elevate (his command) * * *.”

The third inscription,53 which is in Arabic, is written in above the previous


inscription and records the date, evidently of the beginning, of the construction
and the name of the scribe Malik Salih. It reads as follows:

“* * * Rabi I, year four (and thirty and) nine hundred from the Migration of the
Prophet (A.H.) 934. It was written by Malik Salih.”

Figure 6: Corbelling Pattern. Figure 7: Squinch Pattern

On the basis of inscriptions, Catherine B Asher is of the opinion that the


mosque was well under way if not finished by the end of 1527. The inscription is
on black stone against white marble. However, this inscription does not appear
to be on a black stone against white marble as stated by Asher. It seems to be in
black colour on the arch of the mosque coated with Gypsum. This is evident from
physical verification as the layer of Gypsum is peeling off. It is a simple domed
structure recalling the Lodi Bara Gumbad built in Delhi’s Lodi Garden in 1494.
The appearance of net pendentives here used only decoratively, evokes a
Timurid flavor.54

52 Maulvi M. Asharaf Husain, EIAPS (1965), 53 55; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 54;
Chand Singh Kadiyan, PIHC, 407.
53 Ibid.
54 Catherine B. Asher, op. cit., 27.
Mosques 33
The top corners of the central sanctuary hall are covered with a group of
small arches at the having been created squinches for the transitional phase of its
dome (Figure 6 & 7). The interior of the hall is divided into two parts, the lower
portion having four arches. These arches further have three small arches.
Mostly the plaster of the inner ceiling is chipped off. The upper 24 arches of main
sanctuary hall are supporting the lower shell of the dome (Plate 14). The
octagonal neck of the dome is standing in the centre of the terrace to roof the
sanctuary hall. Exteriorly, the parapet is marked with merlons, which are also to
be found on the 2.8 m high of the octagonal drum and the base of the large
central dome that roofs the nave.
Each side wing is divided into three aisles by massive brick piers; a thick
stucco vender modeled to resemble net Stalactite, introduced to north India by
the Mughal’s, crowns the resulting bays. Each side was three rows of three
domes, the central row rising higher than the rest.55 This drum has brick built
dome which is covered with thick plaster lime. The dome is crowned with a
finial.
Octagonal towers crowned by domed pavilions, although only one
survives, marked the northwest and southwest corners of the Mosque. There is
one well in the courtyard which is said to have had a suite of sarad khanas or cool
rooms, going round it. In front of the main sanctuary hall, there is a water pond
for ablution. Most of the enclosure wall has disappeared, but remains suggest the
entire courtyard was walled and that each side had similar gate. The whole
structure of this mosque is restored.

0# Jama Masjid=

Meham is a small town, 19 miles north west of Rohtak on the Delhi Hisar road.
The mosque is situated on a high mound (Plate 15) in the middle of the town.56
The foundations are of blocks of kankars. The walls of this mosque were made of
bricks. It was erected in Humayun’s time as is seen from the inscription, dated
27th Rajab 937 AH. (1531 AD).57 The following inscription is inside the mosque,
eastern side of arch over the pulpit, so that no one read sandstone; it measures 3’
.1” by 2’ .5” and it consists of five lines. The translation of the inscription is as
under:

“In the time of the reign of the king of the kings, the shadow of God in both
worlds, the adorned of throne of kingdom, And Khalifat, his Majesty Muhammad
Humayun Padishah i Gazi may God perpetuates his kingdom and his reign
and exalt his condition and dignity! His Highness the admitted, to the palace

55 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 41.


56 K.C. Yadav, Freak with the Past, 16.
57 P. Horn, EI, 149; S.R. Phogat, Inscriptions of Haryana, 56; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions,
41 42.
34 Medieval Monuments in India
Baga Begum Sultan, the worthy of the faith, the chosen of the court Amir Yadgar
Taghai, by the grace of God Almighty, found grace to built the mosque of the
town of Mahim — may God Almighty make him accepted and favoured, though
His kindness and His wisdom and His perfect liberality! On the 7th Rajab 937
(24 February 1531).”

To study this mosque, it is better to know a little bit about the builder.
Outside on the southern arch of this mosque is another inscription of the
Aurangzeb’s time58 on red sandstone slab, measuring 3’1” by 11’. 5”, (Plate 16)
dated 1078, A.H. It shows that the mosque was built by Khwaja Rahmat Ullah,
by order of Emperor in the 10th year of his reign,59 bearing nine lines. The
translation of the inscription is as under:

“In the happiness spreading reign, extended over all the earth and the time of the
master of authority and dignity, the king of kings, the shadow of God in both
worlds, Muhammad Aurangzeb Bahadur Almgir Badishah i Ghazi – may God
perpetuate his kingdom and his reign! — the repairing of the Jama mosque of the
town of Meham, according to the holy order, was finished through the endeavour
of the slave of the court, Khwaja Rahmat Allah – may God Almighty make him
accepted and favoured through His kindness and wisdom! – on the 17th of the
month Muharram, the holy, A.H. 1078 (9th July 1667), in the tenth year after the
blessed accession to the throne.”

There are two Arabic inscriptions in the mosque, which tend to prove that
a mosque existed here before the time of Humayun. The present mosque has
only one dome which is visible from a great distance.
There are three multi arched doorways. The central bay is arched, wide
and higher than the flanked bays but the northern bay is closed by new
construction and a wooden door just below the red sandstone slab of inscription
affixes southern bay. In the central iwan are affixed three wooden doors for the
safety purpose. Over the cusped (engrailed) arch there is stalactite design. The
zigzag or rope like pattern as a relief was very common in the contemporary
Persian and Central Asian Architecture.60 Either side of the spandrels on the
main arched doorway is having incised stucco medallions. The parapet of the
central iwan is decorated with incised stucco merlon design. On the southern side
of the eastern faced, there are stairs to go up to its terrace.

58 Ibid, 151 152; R. S. Phogat, Inscriptions of Haryana, 58–59; Subhash Parihar, Muslim
Inscriptions, 43 44.
59 According to the first inscription, this mosque was built in the reign of emperor Humayun
not to the reign of Aurangzeb. It seems that in the reign of Almgir Aurangzeb this mosque
was may be repaired.
60 Neeru Mishra and Tanay Misra, The Garden Tomb of Humayun: An Abode in Paradise (Delhi:
Aryan Book International, 2003), 29.
Mosques 35
The mosque’s rectangular sanctuary hall is divided into three chambers.
The central chamber is the main sanctuary hall, which is having a mihrab on its
western wall. This recessed mihrab is semi circular in shape. Over the mihrab an
inscription is fixed measuring 8’.5” by 10’.5” that contains in two lines Quran,
Sŭra, iii, 1 8. Round the inside of an arch over the mihrab run the Kalima and
Quran, Sŭra, iii, 16 17 (to al islamu). The upper half portion of the mihrab having
pendentives in stalactite design with the leaves and floral patterns is decorated in
green, blue and black colour (Plate 17). The spandrels are decorated with
medallions. The upper portion of the hall i.e. interior of the octagonal drum has
been decorated with eight arches of which the corner arches contain rectangular
colour decoration, lattice decoration and stalactite colour design and rest four
arches contains coloured octagonal chhatrī designs. The ceiling of the hall is
totally plastered and painted.
The main soffit and vaults of the adjacent cambers were originally
decorated with incised work (brackets like pattern). These chambers are flats
roofs. On the head of the arched openings of the central iwan, this contains the
calligraphy. The whole sanctuary hall is decorated with calligraphic work. This
mosque is now converted into a Gurudwara.
On the terrace, the central sanctuary hall is having an octagonal drum.
The portion of the drum is designed in merlon pattern. The octagonal drum is
having surmounted with hemispherical dome. The dome is plastered externally
and crowned by petals of inverted lotus made of rubble and mortar from which
the finial would have been erected. The finial having a series of copper vessels in
circular shape is spring out from the inverted lotus (padmakosa). This mosque
does not have any minaret, which is considered an essential part of a mosque.

@# ' +' 4' = ( %

The mosque is located in Fatehabad, about fifty meters south west of the
enclosure of the Idgah and Firoz Shahi column, near the police station at the
Purana Qila. It is beloved that Humayun, while passing through the town, came
to this mosque and prayed there hence the name of the mosque originates from
this event. It is a small building consisting of three interconnected domed
chambers. The central chamber is slightly larger than the others and having a
large dome (Plate 18). The interior of the building was originally plastered, as
were parts of the exterior and the facade of the central bay as well as the niches
on the eastern wall were decorated with brickwork and a limited amount of
glazed tile. The tiles were glazed with turquoise and cobalt blue, set together
patterns. The engraving shows that the domes had a four centered profile.
The domes have been re plastered with cement giving them a building
profile with decorative ribs. However, the building retained much of its original
appearance until 1984 when the mosque underwent massive repairs in the course
of which the walls were partly clad with marble slabs and partly re plastered and
36 Medieval Monuments in India
painted, covering most of the original features. There is an inscription of ten
lines, considered to be associated, with this mosque, but which is set in the Idgah
wall to the southern side of the mihrab, is light coloured rectangular sandstone
(Plate 19). Above the entrance of the central chamber, there was a second
inscription referring to the restoration of this mosque. This inscription is now
hidden under the modern cladding.
The first inscription says that the whole has a striking resemblance to the
inscription of Amir Muhammad’s mosque at Hisar. The inscription is said to
have come from the Humayun Padshah Ki Masjid and its text refer to the
construction of a mosque by Amir Rustam Beg bin Amir Muhammad at the time
of Humayun and the completion date is given as 2 Ramadin 945/ 22 January
1539. The text also records the supervisor of the work was Abdul Karim and
mentions that two chital of lamp oil were to be provided continuously for use in
this mosque. If the inscription is from the Humayun Padshah Ki Masjid, the
building could then be regarded as an early Mughal mosque.

3# Jama Masjid=

This is a typical mosque, situated in the heart of the town. The central portion of
the mosque is higher than its side wings. It consists of two aisles separated from
each other by four piers. The whole structure was covered with ten equal sized
domes, in two rows of five each (Plate 20). Now front row of the mosque has
been fallen. The total effect was that of solidity and solemnity. There is no
inscription but on the basis of the shape of its arches, Rodgers has ascribed it to
the period of Humayun.61
All the six iwans were having arched opening and inter connected with
each other (Figure 8). The central dome is little higher than the others. The domes
are surmounted in the centre of the terrace to the roofs the sanctuary halls. On
the top corners of the sanctuary halls, beautiful squinches have been made for
the transitional phase of its dome. The squinches of the sanctuary halls were
inscribed with Islamic creeds and decorated coloured fruits. The interior of the
domes ceilings are ornamented in stuccowork with colour paintings. Most of the
parts of the ceilings are flanked off exposing the rubble masonry work.
On the terrace, the central sanctuary hall is having an octagonal drum
flanked by circular drums on each side. The drum of the central chamber is
decorated with merlon designs. There are hemispherical domes, which are
plastered externally and crowned by finial from the petals made of rubble and
mortar. The building is remarkable and in very dilapidated condition. Local
inhabitant used it for cattle shed and storage their household materials. However
it was decorated with stuccowork of much later date. The sill of the outer door

61 Rodgers, Revised List, 62; Rodgers, Report, 19; When Dr. Subhash Parihar visited this site; the
mosque was in good condition (Subhash Parihar, Muslim Monuments, 41).
Mosques 37
was an old beam belonging to some Hindu temple, with some grotesque face
and scroll and other ornaments carved on it.62

Figure 8 : Sketch plane of Jama Masjid, Kaithal (Not to the scale)

*.# < , Thanesar

This mosque is situated at the northern end of the main bazaar of Thanesar (Plate
21). It is built on a high platform which is a full fledged storey containing cells.
These cells might have been used as shops, thus ensuring a regular income for
the maintenance of the mosque. Out side it is 54’ long. The sanctuary hall is
divided into three rooms, which are having much low domes that they are not
visible from the bazaar. There is a pretty octangular minaret at each end of the
eastern wall. The eastern façade is divided into panels, which were once filled
with coarse inlaid enamelled flowers. Rodgers noted an inscription on the
southern minaret63, which gives the date, the rest being unintelligible:

“This inscription gave the date of erection of the mosque in the form of a
chronogram as well as in figures—973 A.H. (29 July 1565)”

The last line is the chronogram, “Remember the Truth in the house of
Worship” It gives 973 which is also given in figures, so that we are not left to
conjecture about the time from the style of the building. General Cunningham
could not have seen this date. He says, ‘I believe that the building may be

62 Ibid.
63 Rodgers, Report, 13; Rodgers, Revised List, 50; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 68.
38 Medieval Monuments in India
assigned with much probability to the reign of Aurangzeb.’64 This mosque has
just been repaired and the flowers have been repainted in watercolours.

**# 8 5 4' =

Sadhora was once the headquarters of a large district. It is situated 24 miles to the
east of Ambala. This mosque is situated in the northern side of the town and
adjoining the bank of the river. The entrance gateway of this mosque is in the
northern side and entirely built of red bricks. This gateway is engrailed arched
opening. The soffit of the arched gateway is decorated with paintings.
The eastern façade of the sanctuary hall is having three arched bays. All
the three bays contain recessed arched entrances of nearly equal size, the central
one being some largest (Plate 22). The hall is divided into three chambers
interconnected by the arched ways. The central square chamber is the main
sanctuary hall and in the centre of its western wall is a beautiful designed and
recessed sinking mihrab has been made. The soffits of the inner arches are
covered with stuccoworks. It has only its southern dome still standing. Central
dome and northern dome have been fallen. On the upper portion of the
sanctuary hall or interior of the drum, beautiful squinches have been made for
the transitional phase of its dome.
On the terrace, the central hall is having a dome over it, which is plastered
externally and is crowned by inverted lotus petals made of rubble and mortar. Its
eastern façade (verandah) was covered with tiles laid in stucco in most intricate
geometric patterns. All the spandrels of the arches on all the three bays and of
the recessed arched doorways, were having incised stucco medallions but later
on during the restoration work, they were painted. It has an inscription still
legible. They bear the dates 1054 and 1055 A.H./1644 1645 A.D.65 The
translation of the inscription is as under:

“It records the building of the mosque by Qazi Abu Muhammad and
Abul Makarim in the year 1054 or 1055 A.H (1644 or 1645 A.D.).”

On the southern side of this mosque, is staircase adjacent to the main


building, leading to the terrace. In front of the sanctuary hall and in the centre of
the courtyard, there is a pond for ablution (hauz i kalan) in square shape. In the
courtyard of the mosque, bricks have been affixed in the decorated form.

*-# % ' A % 4' =

It is the Aurangzeb’s time mosque. It is 33’3” by 13’6” with 2’.9” thick walls. The
peculiarity of the building is that it has a 4’3” broad verandah. The whole of the

64 A. Cunningham, ASIR, II, 223.


65 Rodgers, Revised List, 52; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 60.
Mosques 39
eastern façade was once covered with enamelled flowers let into an enamelled
ground. Round the frames of the arches were enamelled texts from the Quran
(Plate 23). This mosque is not in the neighbourhood of the Qazi mosque as
General Cunningham states it to be,66 nor has its face towards the south as
Rodgers described.67 It is the situated extreme west of the town whereas the Qazi
mosque is in the northern side of the town. The inner central arch has eight lines
of Persian poetry in purple letters on yellow ground. The translation of the
inscription68 is as under:

“It records the date of erection of the mosque in the form of a chronogram as well
as figures which is 1080 A.H., during the reign of Muhiuddin Alamgir
(Aurangzeb).”

The first line of the inscription mentions the name of Mahiyuddin Alamgir
Shah (Aurangzeb). Below these lines the date of the completion of the mosque is
given, which is 1080 A.H./1669 70 A.D. Each of the inner arches has a Persian
couplet on it, but of no historical value. The mihrab wall of the mosque also has
three Quranic inscriptions.
The whole structure is surmounted with a bulbous dome with oblong
domes on its either side (Plate 24). Interiorly, the mosque has considerably low
ceilings. It is so because of double domes. The side’s ones are elongated. All the
three domes are surmounted with inverted lotus mouldings. In its initial avatar,
the mosque must have been an elegant piece of workmanship, whole of its
façade once adorning with glazed tile mosaics. All the inscriptions are also
executed in the same medium. The interior is richly painted with floral patterns.
Currently, the mosque is being used as his residence by a local man. Its
façade has been repeatedly whitewashed. The interior is covered with layers of
smoke. Only the inscriptions are nearly perfect. The original building hag been
dismantled. At present, it is a fantastic structure with fragments of earlier
incorporated in its freshly built walls. In front of the mosque is the tomb of
Abdul Wahab.

*7# Dana Sher Mosque, Hisar

This mosque is constructed to the western side of the Dana Sher Tomb (Plate 25).
At the eastern side the mosque has three arched openings to the courtyard. The
central entrance is wider than the others and is framed by cusped arches
(engrailed). Above each of side entrance there is a niche with cusped (or
engrailed) arches of a similar type. This mosque is covered with fine white
stucco. The mosque consists of three interconnected square domed chambers

66 A. Cunningham, ASI Report, XIV, 74.


67 Rodgers, Reports, 25.
68 Rodgers, Revised List, 52; Rodgers, Report, 25 26; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 61.
40 Medieval Monuments in India
with a single mihrab situated in the middle of the qibla wall of the central
chamber.
The recessed central chamber is large than the other two. The dome of this
chamber is also much larger than the flanking domes. The upper portion of this
chamber or interior of the drum is having squinches at the corners. The side
chambers each have an arched window in the middle of the qibla wall, in the
place where is usually a subsidiary mihrab. These windows were blocked at the
time of the conversion of the building to a temple. On the top of the dome, there
is a finial having a series of copper vessels cresting out from the top of the dome.
The Historical inscription of this mosque was on the eastern side of the
building, in the middle of the central arch, above the entrance.69 The placement
of the inscription is clear in the photographs but the inscription is now missing.
According to Blochmann and Horn it was in a fine nasta’liq script and its text
recorded the construction of the mosque in front of the shrine Bahlol Shah in
1106/1694 95. The building is therefore one of the latest historical structures of
Hisar and dates from the time of Aurangzeb. The translation of the inscription is
as under:

“The follower of the law of the Prophet, the chosen one, Abd unnabi, whose sight
gives brightness to the mirror of the heart. Erected before the courtyard of Shah
Buhlul’s mausoleum a grand mosque, which is to be the dwelling of worshippers.
A voice from heaven announced without difficulty the final hemistich, ‘this
building was completed in 1106 A.H. (1694 95 A.D.).”

*># ' +' 4' =

There are two mosques in the Rauda complex, both with the same type of plan:
one aisle deep and three bays wide with a single dome over the central bay.
The larger mosque is known as Ghuriyun Mosque 1 (Plate 26). It measures 12.60
m by 7.20 m from outside and is built of bricks. It has a prayer hall with three
arched openings in the eastern side and a smaller one at the northern end. There
are three recessed mihrabs the central one is larger. A niche in the interior of the
southern end corresponds with the northern opening. The bays are divided by
broad arches, and the dome over the central bay is set on an octagonal zone of
transition with squinches in the four corners.
The building is plastered with stucco both on the interior and the exterior
arches in a rectangular frame made up of shallow niches. The interior
plasterwork has lobes and shallow decorative niches. The parapet of the central
bay hides the zone of transition on the outside. Access to the roof is gained from
the outside via steps in the north western pier. The mosque is built in the style of

69 Blochmann, PASB (1877), 99; P. Horn, EI, II, 157 158; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 34.
Mosques 41
the Mughal period. It is probably during a respite in the turbulent history of
Hansi.
The second mosque is built to the north east of the Ghuriyun Mosque. It
resembles Mosque 1 but it is on a slightly smaller scale, measuring 10.15 m by
5.80 m from outside. It is built of bricks, with broad arches and a single dome but
the dome is bulbous. At each corner there is a small engaged column, octagonal
on plan. The central arch of the east façade is set in a cusped recess in a
rectangular frame, but on the whole the plaster decoration is simpler than in the
Ghuriyun Mosque. A rectangular recess in the brickwork above the exterior of the
arch may once have contained an inscription. There is a central recessed mihrab in
the qibla wall. The brick paving of the floor of the mosque is arranged in simple
geometric patterns aligned to the qibla. The mosque, from its design and method
of construction, appears to be of the early Mughal period.
As the above account shows, 14 mosques have been studied which are in
different states of living. Almost of all of them need a sympathetic look and a
caring hand to preserve them. They are a valuable part of our heritage.
42 Medieval Monuments in India
)>

2 %

In the history of medieval Indian architecture, tomb (maqbarah) is an important


monument. The tradition of tomb construction did not exist in India before the
Muslims appeared on the scene.1 Although Islam does not encourage tombs (the
Hadith strictly forbids the building of a tomb over a grave with stone, brick or
mortar or to write verses upon it)2, the strong desire of the powerful elite to
immortalize themselves got by and by the upperhand. The first Muslim tomb to
be erected on the Indian soil is popularly known as Sultan Ghari tomb erected by
Iltutmish (1231 AD). This tradition culminated, under the Mughals, in the
memorials like the Taj Mahal, which occupies a prominent place in the history of
the world architecture.3 In this period, some fine tombs were erected in our
region as well. These tombs can be classified in to three categories on the bases of
their plan – (I) square (II) octagonal and (III) pillared tomb. In essence, the square
tomb comprised a cubic base pierced by arched openings and the whole crowned
with a hemi spherical dome. In the early specimens the exterior is usually
composed of false storeys, having in the middle of each side a rectangular
projected frame containing the archway. During the time of Akbar, the real ones
and the central projecting frame by a deep iwan replaced the false storeys of the
exterior. It enclosed a square or octagonal room.4
The octagonal form further resolves itself into two types. Of these, the first
type is a regular octagon, whereas the second one is a baghdadi octagon – square
octagonalised by chamfering its angles.5 In both the cases, one or two storeys of

1 R. Nath, The Immortal Taj Mahal (Bombay: D. B. Taraporevala Sons, 1972), 10.
2 T. P. Hughs, A Dictionary of Islam (London: W.H. Allen and Co., 1885), 46, 48, 150 and 635.
3 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments in the Punjab and Haryana (New Delhi: Inter India
Publications, 1985), 28.
4 Ibid.
5 According to Alexander Cunningham a Baghdadi octagon is constructed as follows: “Each
side of the square is divided into four, and the points being joined, the enclosed area is
divided into sixteen squares of which the four middle ones form the interior of the building.
44 Medieval Monuments in India
arched recesses, which on cardinal sides contain the archways, pierce each face of
a tomb. These archways are sometimes filled with trelliswork (Jālī), leaving the
entrance side. Both the types — the square as the octagonal underwent changes
in details and continued to be used with minor variations. Pillared tombs mostly
meant for saints and learned, they are smaller in scale than the other two types.
Very significant tombs of this style were constructed in Jhajjar, Thanesar and
Hansi. There are many tombs in Haryana6 (Map 3). Of these the following
important ones are being studied here.

IMPORTANT TOMBS IN HARYANA

# " 2 %

1. Hafiz Jamala Tomb Panipat 1246 A.D.


2. Samsuddin Turk Panipat 1318 21 A.D.
3. Shah Wilayat Tomb Narnaul 1357 A.D.
4. Chor Gumbad Narnaul 1351 88 A.D.
5. Pran Pir Padhashah Hisar 1351 88 A.D.
6. Chahar Diwan Hansi Sayyid
7. Ali Mir Tijara Hansi Lodi Period
8. Chahar Qutb Mazar Hansi 1497 A.D.
9. Shaikh Jalaluddin Tomb Panipat 1499 A.D.
10. Khwaja Khizr Tomb Sonepat 1522 24 A.D.
11. Ibrahim Lodi Tomb Panipat 1526 A.D.
12. Ibrahim Khan Sur Tomb Narnaul 1540 45 A.D.
13. Shah Quli Khan Tomb Narnaul 1574 75 A.D.
14. Jalaluddin Tomb Kurukshetra 1581 A.D.
15. Shah Nizam Tomb Narnaul 1588 89 A.D.
16. Group of Tombs Jhajjar Mughal Period
17. Muqarrab Khan Tomb Panipat 1643 A.D.
18. Bu Ali Qalandar Tomb Panipat 1660 A.D.
19. Shah Roshan Chirag Tomb Palwal 1661 A.D.
20. Shaikh Chehli Tomb Kurukshetra 1650 1707 A.D.

In what follows, the tombs that are architecturally important and famous
are described:

Then a diagonal drawn across each of the corner squares forms the shorter side of the
square.”(Reports of a Tour in the Punjab in 1878 79, XIV, 50.)
6 For details see, K C Yadav, ‘Freak with the Past: A Case for Preserving Precious Heritage of
Haryana,’ JHS Monograph, Kurukshetra, 1992.
Tombs 45

Map 3 : Tombs in Haryana (Not to scale)


46 Medieval Monuments in India
*# "5$ 2 %=

Hafiz Jamala’s tomb is situated half a mile north of the town. Hafiz Jamala was
mother of Shaikh Bu Ali Qalandar. His father Salar Fakhruddin had migrated
from Iraq.7 The whole area around the tomb is known as Mai Ji. Hafiz Jamala’s
tomb is having of single dome (Plate 27). There is also a madrasa near this tomb
and a mosque at its back side, which is having modern construction. The
structure is made up of bricks. The entrance of this building is in the southern
side. Above its southern gate, an inscription is affixed which is carved out on the
stone and is written in Urdu. According to Rodger, in the western wall of the
tomb was an inscription which was probably in the original building.8 Now, it is
lying in a neglected condition on the terrace of the tomb. This is the only
inscription of the time of Alauddin who reigned from 639 till 644 A.H. The
inscription,9 measuring 38 inch by 13.5 inch, consists of three lines. It is in Arabic,
English translation of which is as follows:

“This edifice was ordered to be built in the time of the honoured king’ Aladdunya
waddin Abu i Muzaffar Mas’ud Shah, the king—may God perpetuate his reign *
* * ! of Pargana Munak, Muzaffar Mansur’ Ala Badr addaula waddin,“(son) of
the Amir, Pahlawan Ashsharq * * *, the defunct, the royal—may God increase his
* * * ! – in the middle of Shawwal 643” [19th February 1246]

It is an earliest inscription of Masud Shah who was the son of Firoz Shah
and succeeded Bahram Shah on the throne. It is very valuable for history but it is
lying in neglected condition. The middle of the line has been completely
destroyed by condition weather which has also injured other words and dots.
The tomb has a single arched entrance in the southern side. Two blind
niches of the same size of the entrance and two small blind niches at the corner of
each side have been given only for decoration purpose. All corners of the tomb
are having square turrets, are made of bricks and rubble masonry i.e., like a
chhatrī. There are no parapet designs at the top of the building. In the center of
the terrace, there is an octagonal drum (neck of the dome) made of rubble
masonry and bricks. The drum is decorated with merlons design, six on each
side. The dome is crowned with beautiful finial having series of copper vessels in
circular shape springing out from the inverted lotus.

7 S. A. A. Rizvi, A History of Sufism in India, I, (New Delhi: Munshiram Manoharlal, 1978), 305;
Chand Singh, Panipat: A Study in Medieval Archaeology (Unpublished M. Phil Dissertation,
K.U.K., 1999), 52 53.
8 C. J. Rodgers, Revised List of Archaeological interest in the Punjab, Lahore, 1891, 59.
9 P. Horn, EI, II, 136 37; G. Yazdani, EIM (1913 14), 17 18; R. S. Phogat, Inscriptions of Haryana
(Kurukshetra: Vishal Publications, 1978), 68 69; Chand Singh Kadiyan, ‘Panipat in History: A
Study of Inscriptions’, PIHC, 2003, 404.
Tombs 47

Figure 9 : Ground plan of Hafiz Jamala Tomb, Panipat

The mortuary hall is 30 feet by 30 feet square on plan. The tomb has five
graves, four of them are arranged in a row, whereas the fifth, smaller one, lies in
south east corner. One of the four graves, two big and two small. The two bigger
one’s are of Hafiz Jamala (second grave) and her husband, Salar Fakhruddin. The
smaller graves are of their ‘relatives’10 (Figure 9). These graves are on a platform
one foot high from the ground level and are covered with iron grill. At the
corners of its interior, squinches have been made for the transition to convert the
upper portion of the square room for creating a circular drum to support its
dome. Because of the restoration work of the tomb, its architectural value is lost.
This structure is under the control of the local people.

10 The Imam of the mosque, attached to the maqbarah, gave this information to the author, when
visited the maqbarah in March 2004.
48 Medieval Monuments in India

-# ' 2' ; 2 %=

Hazrat Khwaja Samsuddin Turk, a contemporary of Abu Ali Qalandar, was


disciple of Shaikh Alauddin Sabari. He was advised by his teacher to stay at
Panipat but because of his failure to satisfy the spiritual needs of the people, left
Panipat and joined military under Balban.11 However, fed up with the new job,
he returned to Panipat at the command of his master and came in contact with
Abu Ali Qalandar; whose friendship continued till his death in 1318 A.D.12 His
tomb lies in the southern part of the old city (Plate 28). It bears a single small
dome. A verandah is attached to the tomb. The verandah measures 46’ by 34.8’ and
stands with decorated pillars. This verandah is glorified with arches and chhajjās.13
The main entrance of the tomb is from the southern side (Figure 10). Two small
minarets stand on both sides of verandah. Now this verandah has been closed by
bricks between the pillars. In the centre of terrace, there is a hemispherical dome.
It is made of bricks contradicting the rubble masonry work. The ceiling of the
dome is very low and thick. The plaster of the tomb is almost chipped off and is
exposing skeleton of rubble masonry. The dome is crowned with beautiful finial
rising from inverted lotus made of rubble masonry, which is symbol of Indo
Islamic architecture. This tomb must date back to 1324 A.D.

Figure 10 : Ground plan of Samsuddin Turk Tomb, Panipat

11 S. Moinul Haq, ‘Rise of Chistis in the Subcontinent’, JPHS, 22, Karachi, 1974, 221 22; Hitender
Kumar, Madhyakaleen Haryana Mein Sufi Sthal: Madhyakaleen Puratattva Mein Ek Adhyyan
(Unpublished M. Phil Dissertation, K.U.K., 2004), 61 62.
12 H. A. Phadke, Haryana: Ancient and Medieval (New Delhi: Harman Publishing. House, 1990),
206; Chand Singh, Panipat, 49.
13 According to Prof. R. Nath, Chhajjā , is later feature which first appeared in the age of Shah
Jahan (1628 58), and was used popularly thereafter throughout India, most distinctly in
Rajasthan. It seems that chhajjā is added at later period.
Tombs 49
The interior of the square mortuary hall is more beautiful than the outer
facade. In the center, there is the grave of Khwaja Samsuddin Turk, which is
made of marble stone. The interior of the mortuary hall is totally made of rubble
masonry. The dados have white marble pieces. Most of the decoration has been
chipped off. In the corners, the chambers are covered with the arches in which
beautifully squinches have been erected. However, the outer architecture
suggests that the building is based on Mughal pattern. The inner structure could
not be verified because it is a disputed property and a case in the court is
pending.

7# A + 2 %= '

Shah Wilayat, also called as Hazrat Turkman, was a Sufi who fought many
battles with Rathore Rajput at Narnaul and is known to have come to Narnaul
‘with jewels in one hand and sword in the other’ around 1137 A.D. He made
Narnaul his home and had large number of Hindus and Muslims followers. He
was killed in 531 A.H./1137 A.D.14 It is situated to the south of the Ibrahim
Shah’s tomb (Plate 29). It is a big tomb cum collegiate complex, which
incorporates within it a long tradition of architecture ranging from the Tughlaq
to the British period. Much of its originality is marred by later constructions.
Originally the tomb and the adjoining complex were constructed during the
reign of Firoz Shah Tughlaq.15 Alam Khan Mewati erected the eastern
colonnades and the dome in 1357 A.D. He also built a portion of the enclosure.
The remaining portion of the building is a modern addition. The old portion has
stern simplicity and grandeur, which are the characteristics of the middle Pathan
style. The arches have the ogee curves. The tomb is under the control of State
Archaeology and Museum Department, Haryana.16
Shah Wilayat tomb is attached with a verandah. It has five ogee arches,
supported on piers or pillars carrying a flat roof. The eastern side of the verandah
has two ogee arches. Above the central pillar, in the eastern side, is an inscription
of white marble.17 The pillars and the walls of the verandah are made of red bricks
and plastered over it. Some portion of the plaster has got chipped off. The ceiling
of the verandah is flat. The wall of the tomb is decorated with stuccowork. The

14 H. B. W. Garrick, ASI Report of a Tour in the Panjab and Rajputana in 1883 84, XXIII, (repr.
Delhi: Rahul Publishing House, 1994), 27.
15 R. S. Bist and Mulk Raj Anand, ‘Haryana Heritage’, Marg, XXVII, Bombay, 1974, 33; K. C.
Yadav, op. cit., 2.
16 It’s Notification No. 46 (GOI) (2) Ed II 68/3286 dated 15 February 1968.
17 It was written in the Urdu language. According to this inscription, Mamun Aulia built this
verandah in 1351 A.H. If this verandah was built in 1351 A.H., then the date of construction
would be 20th centaury.
50 Medieval Monuments in India
main entrance of the tomb is in the southern side. There is Persian inscription18
over the doorway of the tomb, which, in translation, reads as follows:

1. The chief of chiefs, the old Turk, when he departed from this world:
2. The scribe of Wisdom, for the year (the chronogram) of his death, said, “Alas!
He was a model to saints.” 531 A.H. (1357 A.D.).

The tomb’s measurement is 13.5 by 12.7 m. It has a square chamber. The


interior of its mortuary hall is totally made of bricks and plastered. In the centre
of the mortuary hall, there is a grave (Plate 30). The original grave made of white
marble stone is (Hajar) lying outside the mortuary hall near the main gate19
which is having Persian inscription. According to the inscription, Salar and Usta
were the main masons, who were the residents of Narnaul.
The corners of the chamber are covered with the arches in which
squinches have been erected. It has some paintings, which are of much later date
(Plate 31). The main chamber is roofed by a bulbous shaped dome. It was made
of rubble masonary and plastered over it. On the top of the dome, there are
petals of inverted lotus made of rubble and mortar from which the finial would
have been erected but now it is missing. The building is not in a good state and
needs repairs.

># ' % = '

Jamal Khan, an Afghan noble and a trader, built, during the Tughlaq period, this
tomb for himself in Narnaul, just north side of the Singhana road near Kotputli
chowk. On account of its eminent location, remote identity and haunting
appearance, it can hardly escape the attention of a visitor to the town of Narnaul.
It is, therefore, called the ‘signboard of Narnaul.’ According to Prof. R. Nath, it is
a landmark monument. One can have a view of it from miles away and it looks
like a haunted fairy palace of the folk tales. It is said that for a long time after it
remained a hideout for thieves and highwaymen that may account for its present
name, Chor Gumbad (Plate 32). It stands in splendid isolation in the middle of
manicured park. The pointed arches with the s cure as well as other details of
construction put it co eval with the tomb complex of Shah Wilayat. The passage
running in the thickness of the walls may confuse the visitors, with its twist and
turns. It is therefore called ‘Bhul Bhullaiyan’, a maze. It is in the control of state
Archaeology and Museum Department, Haryana.20

18 G. Yazdani, JPASB, III, 1908, 639 640; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions in the Punjab,
Haryana and Himachal Pradesh (Delhi: Inter India Publications, 1985), 46.
19 When was the Hajar lying out side? There was no information regarding it. Annual Report on
Indian Epigraph for 1972 73.
20 It’s Notification No. 46 (GOI) (2) Ed II 68/3286 dated 15 February 1968.
Tombs 51
It has a big square plan with single chamber inside. It seems double
storeyed from outside but it is not. In fact the second storey is obtained by way of
providing an open verandah running around it. All the four facades of the tomb
are substantially alike. Each façade is composed of an arcade of five triangular
arches, of equal dimensions, in two ornamental storeys, flanked by tapering
turrets at the corners of the building. While corner turrets are typically
tughlaqian stile.21 Each facade, there are two niches near the turret. Parapet of the
tomb is decorated with merlons, 33 in each side. The height of the tomb up to the
parapet is 10 m. The circular sloping turret divided in to three parts.22 Lower two
parts of the turret are circular and third part of the turret are also circular but it is
decorated with angular and merlon design, on the top grow up like a bud. The
domed chamber originally entered from north, south and eastern side through a
5’.3” broad entrance. On the western side of the southern facade and on the
eastern side of the northern façade, there are 15 stairs to go up to the second level
of verandah and then go to the terrace. Now they are closed with iron door for
security purposes.
The mortuary hall of this tomb measures 32’.3” square. The interior of the
mortuary hall is totally made of rubble masonry and plastered. The most of the
plastered has now been chipped off and destroyed. The corners of the chamber
are covered with arches in which beautifully squinches have been erected. The
interior of the hall is artificially divided into two parts. The corners forming an
octagonal and then into sixteen sided and so on thirty two figure which once
supported a dome. Western wall has a mihrab. Today there is no gravestone in
the centre of the mortuary hall, which might have been destroyed by the thieves
and highwaymen.
On the mortuary hall, a high necked octagonal drum is erected which is
made of stone mortar and covered with plaster. The outer face of the boundary
wall of the terrace is designed with merlons. A spherical dome is resting on the
thirty two sided drum. The dome is made of rubble and plastered. It was
crowned by a finial rising from petals, which is made of rubble and mortar.

?# 2 %=

Pranpir Padshah was the spiritual teacher of the famous noble Sher Bahlol or
Dana Sher in the Tughlaq times. He was a great Sufi Saint and prophesied that
Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq would become the king of Delhi. Its tomb is located south
of the town in the complex of the Panchayat Ghar, near Government College
(Plate 33). This largest tomb of Hisar and is square on plan. The lower part to the
spring of the arches of the entrances is connected with a rubble core and dressed
with stone (kankars). The upper part is built with bricks. The tomb has four

21 These triangular arches were experimental which did not succeed in the vast array of
medieval architecture of India.
22 The same types of the turrets were used in the Firoz Shah Tughlaq period.
52 Medieval Monuments in India
openings, one in the centre of each wall. The main entrance of the tomb is from
the southern. Southern and northern entrances are fitted with smaller doors and
other two are closed with bricks. On the exterior the arches of the entrances are
flanked by an arched niche on either side, above each of, which are three smaller
niches. At the level of these niches there are two extra niches on the piers of the
entrance making a row of eight small niches on each face. Each side of the
building has a bay projecting beyond the wall.
The mortuary hall of this tomb is square on plan. There was a grave but
now it is not traceable. The local inhabitants might have destroyed it after its
occupation. The corners of the chamber are covered with arches where beautiful
squinches have been erected to convert the square chamber into octagonal one.
Originally, it was tried out in wood by setting beams across the corners. The
interior of the transitional zone is decorated with two rows of sixteen flat niches.
There are niches in the stonework, but they have all been bricked up. The
exterior and interior of the building was originally plastered. The plaster of the
ceiling is almost chipped off and destroyed.
The terrace of the tomb is accessible by some stairs from south east
side. The crenellations round the roof are now lost. In the centre of the terrace,
there is an octagonal drum. The neck was decorated with merlons designs
eight on each side. The dome was decorated with ribs. On the top of the
dome, there remains of petals of the inverted lotus from which the finial
would have been erected which is now missing. These petals are made of
rubble and mortar.
Two types of building materials are used in this building i.e. red bricks
and kankar pathars. M Shokoohy assumed that the upper part of the building is
from a later period.23 But in this region (mostly in Haryana and Punjab) kankar
pathars are used at very large scale such as Mir Tijara Tomb at Hansi, Group of
Tombs at Jhajjar, Mosque of Machhiwara at Ludhiana and Tomb of Subhan, at
Sirhind. These monuments are of the Lodi period accepting group of tombs at
Jhajjar. According to Bianca Maria Alfieri these building carry the characteristics
of the building of Delhi Lodis: domes on octagonal drums, facades opened by
foiled arches framed by projecting portals and numerous decorative niches.24 It
is, therefore, suggested that the building was reconstructed during the Lodi
period.

/# Chahar Diwan=

It is situated to the south east of the Chahar Qutb and eastern side of the Ali Mir
Tijara’s tomb. Because of its four domes ‘the building’ is known as Chahar Diwan.
The Chahar Diwan tomb (Plate 34) consists of a platform 2.50 m across and over

23 M. Shokoohy and N. H. Shokoohy, Hisar i Firuza. (London: School of Oriental and African
Studies, 1988), 55.
24 Bianca Maria Alfieri, Islamic Architecture of the Indian Subcontinent (London: Mapin, 2000), 58.
Tombs 53
8.50 m long surmounted by a canopied building formed of two rows of columns
roofed by four domes (Figure 11). The building originally contained the graves of
four of the followers of Shaikh Jamaluddin. Historical evidence shows that these
graves were still intact at the time of Garrick and appear in his engraving of the
building, which at the time was in a good state of preservation. The tombstones
have now disappeared and the graves inside the platform have been dug out by
the locals. The columns have monolithic shafts in two registers, square below
and octagonal above and have carved decoration. They support stone below and
octagonal slabs of stone set across the corners, on which rest the brick domes. A
parapet with decorative arched battlements runs around the domes. The
brickwork of the lower parts of the domes have fallen and is weakening the
structure of the domes. Some of the plasterwork of the interior of the domes are
still intact, maintaining the decoration as well as a finely painted floral motif
generating from a central eight pedalled flower in the middle of the interior of
each dome.
The carved decoration of the Chahar Diwan can be compared to the
structure of Sayyid and Lodi period both in Delhi and elsewhere. The building
can be dated to the late 14th or 15th century. The arrangement of the building in
the form of a multiple of four chhatrīs is unusual. Another example of this type is
a canopied tomb in the Bare Pir Sahib Dargah in Nagaur. On the platform of the
canopied building at Bare Pir Sahib are five graves of the early Islamic period of
India but the building itself is of later period probably dates back to 14th century.

Figure 11 : Ground plan of Chahar Diwan and Ek Diwan, Hansi

The pillars shafts of the columns are square at both ends and octagonal in
the middle. The dome like the domes of the Chahar Diwan tomb stands on
triangular stone slabs. It is larger in size and the plaster of its interior is decorated
with ribs and with floral design. The Ek Diwan measure 4 m square in plan and
its columns; brackets and lintels are of red sandstone and carved with floral
motifs of a similar type to those of the Chahar Diwan but is different in detail.
Though, it is similar to the Chahar Diwan, in its method of construction. The
chhatrī is on a slight larger than the units that make up the canopied tomb and
more attention has been paid to the details of the stonework and its carving.
54 Medieval Monuments in India
While chhatrīs are very common in India and numerous chhatrī tomb can still be
seen in the sub continent. The Ek Diwan is the only surviving tomb of its kind
known to stand in the district of Hisar.

0# 2< 2 %=

The tomb of Ali Mir Tijara is a substantial square domed chamber (Plate 35)
standing on the south side of the Chahar Qutb. Mir Tijara was a follower of Shaikh
Jalaluddin.25 Later reports refer to this building as the tomb of Ali whose title is
recorded as Tujjar, Tajjar, Tajar and Tajir all apparently corrupt forms of the
local name Mir Tijara (the Chief Merchant). This Mir Ali, or Alam is said to have
originally built this tomb for his teacher. But the latter is said to have remarked:
‘Who knows for whom it is intended.’ Incidentally, the former died earlier and
he was buried there.26 Local people call it the tomb of Lakhi Banjara. Banjaras
were mainly wandering grain, salt and cattle merchants. They lived in tents and
moved with their livestock and carts.27 There is no evidence to discount the
earlier version.
It is 11 m square and 15 m high mausoleum. That is symmetrically
arranged with an arched opening in the center of each side. Presently eastern and
southern doors are closed with bricks. The walls are of bricks, stones and kankars
with a slight batter. On the exterior the plinth is built out of dressed stone and
above the plinth the building is brick, mainly plastered over it. There are
decorative arched niches in rectangular frames, inlaid with geometric blue tile
work but now most of it is chipped off. Each portal is flanked by four blind
arched niches; two on each side.
All the upper four corners of the tomb have been deeply chamfered for
making semi octagonal drum which is supported by squinches. The interior
walls below the arches are faced with stone and the squinches are set in the
corner of the walls at the level of the arches. The transitional zone is decorated
with sixteen flat arched niches, with a square glazed tile set in the center of each
niche. In the centre of the mortuary hall there is a gravestone (Figure 12), which
is covered with cloths. It has destroyed when it is being used as a cattle shed. A
wall has been erected around the gravestone.

25 H.B.W. Garrick, op. cit., 16 17; Apparently a reference to Shaikh Jamaluddin Hansawi, since
the only Sultan of Delhi with the title Jalaluddin is the Khalji Sultan Firoz Shah (1290 96),
whose date is too early to be associated with the tomb.
26 R. S. Bist and Mulk Raj Anand, op. cit., 30.
27 A. K. M. Farooque, Roads and Communications in Mughal India (Delhi: Idarah I Adabiyat I
Delhi, 1977), 66.
Tombs 55

Figure 12 : Ground plan of Ali Mir Tijara, Hansi

In the centre of the terrace, there is an octagonal drum and plastered with
thick layer of plaster. A parapet runs around the top of the wall and around the
octagonal drum of the dome is a row of merlons. The plaster of drum and dome is
almost chipped off. The ceiling of the dome is very thick. The dome was
originally crowned with beautiful finial rising from inverted lotus, made of
rubble masonry but now is missing.
The tomb is one of the best preserved examples of its kind in the district.
While in general form it can be compared with the tombs of Hisar but in details it
differs from most of them. Perhaps the nearest comparison is the tomb of Baba
Pran Pir Padshah. The arrangements of the exterior niches of the tomb are
different. The pattern of the tile work on the spandrel of the entrance arches of
this tomb is similar to that on the Barsi Gate. The building carries the
characteristics of the buildings of Lodis at Delhi.

@# Chahar 8' % Dargah=

The Dargah of Shaikh Jamaluddin Hansawi, the famous Sufi saint of Hansi and
his descendents are known as the Chahar Qutb. It is situated to the west of the
town and represents one of the most important centres of the Chistia order of
Sufism in Haryana.28 It was the khanaqah of the first Shaikh Jamaluddin where he

28 R. S. Bist and Mulk Raj Anand, op. cit., 30.


56 Medieval Monuments in India
was later buried. More than a century, three of his successive descendents
continued their teaching in the khanaqah and were subsequently buried side by
with the Shaikh. In later years, the tombs of the four Shaikhs came to be regarded
as one of the most important shrines in the region (Plate 36). Timur saved the
whole town of Hansi from destruction because of his respect for this shrine. The
complex has served as a khanaqah up to modern times.
Shaikh Jamaluddin Ahmad Hansawi was an important spiritual leader
(Qutb) of the Chistis sect of Sufis and was a principal disciple (khalifa yi a zam) of
Shaikh Fariduddin Ganj i Shakar29 who used to say: ‘Jamal is our Jamal (beauty).’
When Shaikh Jamaluddin joined the discipline of Shaikh Farid he was the khatib of
Hansi. Shaikh Farid spent 12 years with Jamaluddin in Hansi. After death of
Shaikh Jamaluddin in 659/1260 61 his younger son Shaikh Burhanuddin was
chosen by Shaikh Fariduddin Ganj i Shakar to replace the father and conferred
his khilafatnama on him. At that time, Shaikh Burhanuddin was a child and Shaikh
Fariduddin ordered him to attend the teaching of his other principal disciple
Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya.30 Burhanuddin did not enroll any disciples. He
seems to have died when the Khwaja was still alive.
Burhanuddin’s son, Shaikh Qutbuddin Munawwar was also a
distinguished disciple and khalifah of Shaikh Nizamuddin Aulia. Qutbuddin is
known to have lived in a small house outside the Khanaqah. He chose to spend all
his life in Hansi and avoided traveling even to visit his spiritual leader in Delhi.
Muhammad bin Tughlaq ordered him to be taken to his court in Delhi but was
impressed by the Shaikh’s religious devotion and after some time allowed him to
return to Hansi.
In 1351 AD, when Firoz Shah declared himself Sultan and went to Hansi
on his march to Delhi, he met Qutbuddin Munawwar but the meeting was not
peaceful. On 26 Dhi’l qa’da 752/15 January 1352 Qutbuddin Munawwar died,
his place was taken by his son Shaikh Nuruddin Jahan, the last of the Hansi Qutb.
The relationship between Nuruddin and the Tughlaq court was much better than
his father. When Firoz Shah completed the construction of Hisar i Firuza, he
himself went to Hansi and invited Shaikh Nuruddin to reside in the new town,
promising to build him a new khanaqah there. Nuruddin preferred to remain in
Hansi and continue his teaching in the khanaqah of his ancestors and the sultan
respected his choice. After the death of Shaikh Nuruddin, the tombs of the four

29 Shaikh Fariduddin Mass’ud Ganj I Shakar (1175 1265) was born in a qazi family near Multan
where he first met Shaikh Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. He was probably the first and the last
Indo Muslim saint who performed the Chillah I Ma’kus, on of the most spiritual exercises.
After completing his course of mystic discipline at the feet of Shaikh Qutbuddin, he settled at
Hansi. (K. A. Nizami, Some Aspects of Religion and Politics in India During the Thirteenth Century
(Bombay: Asia Publishing House, 1961, 191.)
30 The maidservant, who was taken by surprise at his generosity of Shaikh, submitted: ‘Khwaja
Burhanuddin bala hai’ (Khwaja Burhan ud din is a child.) Shaikh Farid promptly replied:
‘Ponum ka chand bhi bala huta hai’ (The crescent is also small.) (K.A. Nizami, op. cit., 192).
Tombs 57
Shaikhs became a focal point for pilgrims and visitors.31 According to Garrick,
inscription32 gives full historical details as follows:

“In praise and gratitude to God, Raza Ali, 903 (30 December 1497), erected
outside of the city this shrine of Hazrat Qutb Jamal ud din, son of Sultan Hamid
ud din, who came with Shahab ud din from Ghazni and conquered this part of the
country. The city of Hansi having fallen to his share, Hazrat Qutb Jamaluddin
became a recluse and was the disciple of Hazrat Bawa Shaikh Farid Ganj of Pak
Pattan. He died in 670 A.H. His shrine is pure, handsome, and in contiguity with
a mosque.”33

According to this inscription, the tomb of Shaikh Jamaluddin erected by


Raza Ali in 903 A.H. (30 December 1497) out side the city. The inscription goes
back to the time of Sikander Lodi. The main gateway of the shrine is a square
domed chamber in the eastern side of the complex. It has been restored several
times.
The Mazar of Shaikh Jamaluddin Hansawi and three of his descendents
(Plate 37) also includes the graves of some of their family members. Its historical
and religious value is undeniable. It is a square chamber measuring about 11.50
m on the outside and has a passage running round inside. The surrounding
passage has a small dome in each corner. The central dome, hemispherical in
shape, is supported by an arcade of twelve columns and rests on an octagonal
drum. The interior pillars from a triangular unit in each corner, of which the two
side ones are pentagonal. Today, the three pillars have been closed by brick
screen wall that would reinforce the load. Plaster cut engrailled arch shown on
the hypotenuse face of the arrangement, facing into the mazar as a traditional
expedient.34 Low stepped niches are provided in the qibla wall. Parts of the
colonnade have also been modified at a late date by the addition of walls with
arched openings built between the columns. The form of a shrine with a central
domed core and a surrounding passage with four corner domes is seen in main
Sultanate tombs in Delhi including that of Bahlul Lodi, the Barah Khamba and the
tomb of Shaikh Nasiruddin Mahmud Raushan i Chiragh i Delhi where the form
was commonly used in the 15th century.35
The qibla wall of the Mazar has an opening at each end, leading into two
adjacent rectangular chambers separated by an arch, now filled by a pierced jālīs.

31 M. Shokoohy and N. H. Shokoohy, op. cit., 97 98.


32 According to Rodgers there was no inscription, which tells the builder name and time of the
tomb complex, but Garrick recorded full details of inscription in his report. At present, there
is no inscription found in the tomb, it seems that some one had been destroyed the
inscription before the visit of Charles Rodgers in 1891. Rodgers, Revised List, 69.
33 H. B. W. Garrick, op. cit., 15; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 25.
34 K. V. Soundara Rajan, Islam Builds in India: Cultural study of Islamic Architecture (Delhi: Agam
Kala Prakashan, 1983), 84.
35 M. Shokoohy and N. H. Shokoohy, op. cit., 101.
58 Medieval Monuments in India
The east and west walls have niches. There is a doorway to the outside in the
southern wall. The northern chamber and the southern chamber have graves.
There is also a square domed chamber, built against the southern end of the
western wall. It is also hemispherical and rests on pendentives, a system that
appears in Indian buildings from the Tughlaq period.36
The shrine has been subject to some decorative embellishments, mainly to
the stucco of the exterior of the building. They include the stucco over the
entrances and the covering of the main dome, which has a slightly stuffed shape
with decorative ribs and is topped with a lotus finial. It is also possible that the
dome has been reconstructed or its profile modified, at least on the outside, in a
later restoration. However, with the help of inscriptional evidence and the
arrangement of the central octagonal area surrounded by a corridor we can
assume that it is Lodi period building.

3# Shaikh $ ' ; 2 %=

This tomb of Shaikh Jalaluddin, whose original name was Khwaja Muhammad is
an important building of Panipat. The Shaikh’s religious teacher was Samsuddin
Turk37 who gave him this name. He roamed about places for years but finally
came to Panipat. Like other Chistis’s Shaikh Jalaluddin also did not like political
or selfish leaders and Amirs. He favoured prayer of God. He died in 1363 64
A.D.38 This tomb is situated in the eastern part of the old city. There is a
sandstone slab over the southern door of the tomb and measures 32.5 inches by
19 inches. The inscription, which is in four lines, is not visible from the enclosure.
The inscription39, in translation, is as follows:

“The builder of this edifice is Firoz Muhammad Lutfallah, the Afghan. The
builder of this religious edifice, during the time of the king of kings Sikandar
Shah, son of Buhlul Shah, the king, by the kindness of God Almighty, found grace
to erect the vault of the tomb of the revered Shaikh of Shaikhs and saints, Shaikh
Jalal alhaq washshar’ waddin — may God sanctify his dear secret! Dated 2nd
Shawwal, 904” (13th May 1499).

According to this inscription the builder of this tomb was Firoz


Mohammad Lutfullah, an Afghan, built this building in the reign of Sultan
Sikandar Shah as well as Hazira dated 2nd, Shawwal 904 A.H./ 13 May 1499 A.D.
Jalaluddin’s tomb is surmounted with a single pointed dome (Pate 38). Its
main enclosure, measuring 26.5 feet by 26.5 feet is made of small bricks and

36 Ibid.
37 S.A.A. Rizvi, Sufism I, 270.
38 H. A. Phadke, op. cit., 206.
39 P. Horn, EI, II, (reprint 1983), 137; H. Blochmann, PASB, (1873), 141; R.S. Phogat, op. cit., 69;
Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 53; Rodgers, Revised List, 60.
Tombs 59
plastered both externally and internally. The mortuary hall has three graves of
white marble stone. This tomb is square and having eight arches around it. The
corners of the chamber are covered with arches in which beautiful squinches
have been erected.
Verandah attached to the tomb, is measuring 26.6 feet by 13.10 feet having
sandstone pillars, arches with nine cusps, which was typical of Shahjahan’s time
but seems to have been added at a later period. The enclosing walls are engraved
with beautiful designs of flowers and leaves. Its parapet is also made up of jālīs,
which is to glorify the verandah. The floor of the verandah is decorated with
coloured tiles. Chajjā and Jālī glorify the parapet of the tomb. The parapet of the
drum is designed with merlon pattern. It is crowned by a finial (shikhar) having a
series of copper vessels from the top of inverted lotus. Dome is coloured with
green paint.
One more building stands near it in the west side of the tomb of Shaikh
Jalaluddin (Figure 13). It is a single dome structure. It is constructed with the
rubble masonry. Its dome stands on a wall of stone that is 8.4 feet high and 4.5
feet wide. The complete dome is made up of bricks. Their large block of stones
are placed one upon the other, which remained intact at their place by their
weight and balance. There is a wooden slipper placed on the wall, which is 5.8
feet long 8 inches wide and 5 inches thick on all sides. These slippers lies
sandwiched between the wall and dome. On the southern gate of this structure,
is an inscription of red sandstone slab measuring 32 inch by 15 inch is placed. It
is in Persian language that bears three lines where in some words have been
completely destroyed. The inscription40, in translation, is as follows:

“It records the erection of a tomb by Mir Muzzim on 2nd Muharram, 715 A.H.
This date is either of foundation or the completion of the tomb”.

Figure 13 : Ground plan of Shaikh Jalaluddin tomb, Panipat

40 Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 53.


60 Medieval Monuments in India
This structure is plastered only externally but not internally. The corners
of the chamber are covered with arches in which beautiful squinches have been
erected. This tomb is square and having eight arches around it and then sixteen
small arches have been designed over the eight arches. The tomb is closed and
not in use. It is more older than the Shaikh’s tomb.

*.# < 5 2 %=

Khwaja Khizr Khan was a descended Pathan from the royal family of Sher Shah
Suri. The tomb is square and surmounted by a spacious dome41 (Plate 39). It was
built over the mortal remains of a local saint. He was flourished during the reign
of Ibrahim Lodi (1517 26 A.D.). This tomb is among the few monuments where
kankar blocks have been used along with red sandstone. According to a Persian
inscription, the tomb complex of Khwaja Khizr, son of Darya Khan Sarwani, was
built during 1522 1524 A.D. There is an inscription42 on the eastern doorways of
the enclosure of the tomb, measuring 216 cm by 31 cm, which, in translation, is as
follows:

“The portico of the tomb of Miyan Khwaja Khizr, son of Darya Khan Shirwani—
may God has mercy upon both! was erected on Monday, the 15th Shawwal, 928
AH (7th September 1522). In the time of just and liberal king, who relies on the
assistance of the Merciful, Abul Muzaffar Ibrahim Shah, son of Sikandar Shah,
son of Bahlol, the king – may his kingdom be perpetuated until the resurrection!”

There is another Persian inscription43 on the southern gateway of the


enclosure of Khwaja Khizr’s, measuring 228 cm by 28 cm, which, in translation,
is as follows:

“With the help of God, who is blessed and exalted, and by His grace, the building of
the vault of this tomb of the great and noble saint, Miyan Khawaja Khizr, the
deceased, the pardoned, son of Darya Khan, son of the Shaikh of Shaikhs, Shaikh
Ahmad, son of the king of Shaikhs, Shaikh Manduki Darwesh of Shirwan – may God
have mercy and pardon upon them! The mufti of the town of Sonepat, was
completed in the time of His Majesty, the king of kings, who confirms the laws of
Islam and the faith, the shadow of God in both words, who trusts to the aid of the
Merciful, Abul Muzaffar Ibrahim Shah, son of Sikandar Shah, son of Bahlol Shah, the
king—may God perpetuate his kingdom and his reign! – By order of Langar Khan
Khizr on the 15th Rajab—may its honour increase! –930” [19th March 1524].

41 David Ross, The Land of Five Rivers and Sindh: Historical and Descriptive Sketches (Landon:
Chapman and Hall Ltd, 1883), 245
42 P. Horn, EI, II, 140; H. Blochmann, PASB (1873), 94 95; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions,
62 63; R.S. Phogat, Inscriptions of Haryana, 72 73.
43 Ibid.
Tombs 61
This tomb stands on a high and square platform, which is made of red
bricks, reinforced with square projections at the corners. This platform is
decorated with fourteen blank niches and three in the centre in each side of the
platform. On its south, there are eleven steps to leading to the gateway on the
terrace and in the centre which is the main structure of square externally.
On the south of the tomb, the gateway consists of two arched openings at
the end of a central passage. Façade is decorated with mouldings, inverted
lotus44 medallions. The corners of the gateway are decorated with vessel type
designs, five in each side. At either side of the arched recesses there are three
niches of red sandstone. The spandrels of both the arches are of red sandstone;
rest of the gateway is made up of kankar stone. On the east and west side of the
gateway has nine blind niches on each side. On the top of the gateway, there is a
small square chhatrī supported by four square red sandstone pillars. Rich
carvings on the red sandstone pillars give them a tasteful finish. The dome has
been covered with plaster. The square collar between the dripstone and the
cupola has been decorated.
All the main three arched portals of this square tomb are of red sandstone
and kankar stone. From the front, the gate is covered with the typical Iranian arch
and panel articulation, which is in the form of empanelling. Further the front
façade of this gate is in the form of a framed articulation within which is
provided a smaller trabeated rectangular opening. The brackets are carved with
beautiful and intricate designs. It has three blind niches in each side, which have
decorated spandrel medallions of inverted lotus. The main southern gate is
having true arched. This is divided in two parts, first is curve and other part is
shaft. In the center of the upper portion a blind niche is created. Outer arched is
made up of red sandstone and inner arched is made up of only mortar. On the
top of the southern gateway is an inscription. The parapets are decorated with
merlons design.
Main entrance to the tomb is southern side. Eastern and northern entrance
is closed with Iron Gate for the safety purpose. Internally, the tomb is square and
having eight arches around it. The corners of the chamber are covered with the
arches in which beautifully squinches have been erected. On the interior face of
the entrance doors, there are beautiful medallions decorated. The hall is
artificially divided into two parts. The lower portion is having eight arched
squinches in phase of transition. These semi circular arched squinches have been
perforated with the octagonal drum. The ceiling of the mortuary hall is decorated

44 Lotus – a symbol of prosperity, has been associated with Hindu and Buddhist mythologies
and has been considered an auspicious symbol. As a symbol, the ancient Indian cultures and
Egyptians alike have adopted it. Khizr Khan’s tomb has been a great experimentation in this
symbol so emphatically on the spandrels. Inverted lotus protruding out has blended well
with the geometrical inlay work on the red sandstone. (Neeru Misra and Tanay Misra, The
Garden Tomb of Humayun: An Abode in Paradise Delhi: Aryan Book International, 2003, 28)
62 Medieval Monuments in India
with floral designs executed in blue, yellow, green and dull red colours (Plate
40). There are two graves, one in the centre of the mortuary hall and second one
is the eastern side of the hall (Plate 41). The central mihrab of the tomb is
rectangular in plan (Plate 42) in the qibla wall. It is built out of carved stone and
consists of a series of cusped arches set in a rectangular frame. Both this frame
and the innermost arch rest on pilasters carved in the form of wooden columns
with vase shaped bases and capitals
The terrace of the tomb is accessible by some stairs. On the terrace there
are twelve octagonal pillars around it and in the centre, there is an octagonal
drum. The top of the drum has been covered with a red sandstone band running
around the circumference. On this red band of the drum, alternate merlon
designs are decorated which is made of mortar. The octagonal drum is having
hemispherical dome over it, which is plastered externally and crowned by a
finial of red sandstone cresting from the petals made of rubble and mortar.

**# % ; 2 %=

Ibrahim Lodi was defeated and slained in the first battle of Panipat, 1526, with
Babur. When Babur heard this news, he sent Dilawar Khan, a noble, to make
enquiries in this regard. Dilawar went to the battlefield and there he found
Sultan Ibrahim lying in blood and dust. Dilawar Khan intimated the king who
himself reached the spot and saw the mighty emperor in that horrible state. He
lifted his body off the earth saying, ‘Thou are great’. He ordered a decent burial
of the king and ordered let a memorial be erected in his honour.
During the British period, when the Grand Trunk Road was built, the
tomb, which obstructed the road, was shifted to another site (1866), between the
tehsil and the old city of Panipat (Plate 43). It was one of Sher Shah’s dying
regrets that he could not materialize his wish to raise a tomb to Ibrahim Lodi in
Panipat with such architectural embellishment that friend and foe might render
their tribute of applause, so that his name could remain honoured upon earth
until the day of resurrection.45 Later, the district committee built a plain masonry
platform over it with an Urdu inscription (Figure 14).
The inscription is fixed on the northern wall of the platform. It is a marble
tablet measuring 30 inches by 20 inches. It has 2.5 lines, whose English
translation is as follows:

“The tomb of Sultan Ibrahim Lodi who was slain along with his army in the great
battle of Panipat (934 A.H.) against Ghiyasuddin Babur Badshah; and that the
tomb was repaired and set right in 1867 A.D.”

45 Niamatull, Tarikh i Jahan Lodi. Tr. Elliot and Dowson, Allahabad, 1964, 108 109.
Tombs 63

Figure 14: Ground plan of Ibrahim Lodi Tomb, Panipat

According to Rodgers, the inscription has two gross mistakes. Babur’s


name was Zahiruddin and not Ghiyasuddin as mentioned in it. Secondly, the
battle was fought in 943 A.H. and not in 934 A.H.46 Strangely, nobody has cared
to rectify these mistakes so far.
In 1969, a boundary walls and barbed wire fencing was put up around the
monument.47 In 1974 the structure was repaired.48 In 1978, the grave was
provided with plinth of country brickwork, and lime concrete was laid on the
platform in order to complete the platform, which had fallen off.49 It is suggest
that the two mistakes in the inscription must be pointed out in a slab put up
under the inscription.

*-# % '; 2 %= '

Ibrahim Khan Sur was Sher Shah Sur’s grandfather. He was based in Narnaul as
a petty official of the Lodis. After defeating Humayun, Sher Shah ascended the
throne at Delhi in 1540. He ordered the construction of his long deceased

46 Rodgers, Revised List, 60.


47 IAR, Archaeological Survey of India, Delhi, 1959 60, 91.
48 IAR, 1974 75, 100.
49 IAR, 1978 79, 134.
64 Medieval Monuments in India
grandfather’s tomb in 1538 4550 (Plate 44), who died at Narnaul in A.H. 927. This
was more than 50 years after the death of Ibrahim Sur. The structure is a
derivative of the square plan of tombs built in large numbers during the Lodi
period. The main entrance gateway itself is an elegant and superstructural
element.51
It is a perfect example of the square tomb of Pathan style, exquisite details
and pleasing interplay of colours. It has characterised by its massive outlines.
The creation of a high terrace, double storey simulation, jhālardār arches, low
domes, beautiful chhatrīs, jalīs, jharokhās, chhajjās, kalasa finials, slender turrets
(guldastas) and elegant merlons, give it balance, strength and dexterity.52 The use
of deep red, grey and white stone, painted ceiling with excellent brush work and
subtle lapidary, give it a richness which is unique among such building in
Haryana. The spandrels of the north façade bear a continuous inlaid pattern,
while those on the south façade have stellate medallions. The tomb has some
inscriptions,53 which, in translation, read as follows:

Over the eastern doorway:

“If any one inquire of you who built this edifice, then tell him if you know the
secret. The emperor of the kingdom, Sher Sultan Ghazi, has built this Heaven like
dome. The king of kings, master of the seven empires, whose sword has surpassed
the lighting of world. Farid Hasan Sur, son of Brahim (Ibrahim), gave orders for
building a paradise over the tomb of his grandfather. If you inquire of me who was
the superintendent, then I will say Abu Bakr, son of Shaikh Ahmad Niyazi. His
clan was Niyazi and his tribe was Kindi, and on account of his pure descent he
was honoured.”

Over the northern doorway:

“May God ever keep this big dome, which has thrown its shade over us like high
heaven. Abu Bakr Kindi, son of Shaikh Ahmad, was in charge of this building
when it was being erected”.

Over the southern doorway:

“Such a wonderful dome the king of the world erected over the tomb of his
grandfather. If people inquire of you about the name of superintendent, then say
Abu Bikr Kindi, son of Shaiokh Ahmad”.

50 Inventory of Monuments and Cites, vol. I, Part II, Chandigarh Circle, New Delhi, 1999, 66.
51 Prof. R. Nath assumed that it is the most important tomb of Haryana and a right precursor of
the Mughal architecture, it must have shown a way to the builders of Fatehpur Sikri.
52 R. S. Bist and Mulk Raj Anand, op. cit., 32.
53 G. Yazdani, JPASB, III, 1908, 585 586; H. Blochmann, PASB (1874), 222; Subhash Parihar,
Muslim Inscriptions, 47.
Tombs 65
According to these inscriptions, Sher Sultan Ghazi erected this beautiful
mausoleum in the superintendent of Abu Bakr Kindi, son of Shaikh Ahmad
Niyazi. The inscriptions state that Farid, son of Hasan Sur and grandson of
Ibrahim erected this tomb.54 Local people said that Ibrahim Khan Sur was
belonged to Simla village, near Narnaul.
The tomb is standing on a high platform with a flight of steps for access
(Figure 15). The height of the portal is 10.5 m up to the parapet. The size of its
mass is rendered in a pleasing contrast of gray and red stone with a relatively
sparing use of the latter. Southern and western side stone carvings are very
superstructural elements (Plate 45). Each of its four facades is similar in outline
with a tall central projected archway containing a rectangular opening. The
oblong frame at the centre of each façade contains an iwan has vertical panels
decorated with arched niches and horizontal panels on the frieze. The intrados of
the iwan has a spear point border while a beautiful balconied window surmounts
the true entrance. Flanking this archway are smaller arched niches and openings
arranged in pairs in two tiers to create the well known double level simulation,
perfected by the Lodi and is best seen in their tombs in Delhi. At either side of
the arched gateway there are four blind niches. One of the blind niches of each
side is separate from rest of the niches. Beautiful red sandstone medallions in the
spandrels have been erected. Six small blind niches (Alā) are there in each side
for decorative purpose. A red stone course runs all around between the two tiers
to complete the two level effect. There is a continuous jhālardār arches of fringe
along with intrados of an arch either of spearheads or of lotus buds (mālā)
decorates the exterior face. Both this frame and the innermost arch rest on
pilasters carved in the form of columns with vase shaped bases and capitals. The
rectangular gateway is decorated with beautiful projected brackets, jalīs, jharokhās
and chhajjās. On the top of the spandrels and below of the parapet there are
calligraphic works. The parapet covering the whole structure is made of grey
stone with beautiful ‘Allah’ carving of merlons. The parapet design of the
structure and drum is similar.
The terrace of the tomb is accessible by some stairs from southern façade.
In the centre of the terrace, there is an octagonal drum. All the corners of the
tomb and sixteen sided drum are decorated with twenty eight round turrets
(guldastas), which are made of red and grey stone crowned with the opening
lotus.
At the four corners on the terrace of the mortuary chambers, there are
octagonal chhatrīs standing on the octagonal platform (Plate 46). Each side of the
chhatrī is measuring 1.9 m. All the platforms are made of grey stones. These are
supported by octagonal carving pillars. The interior of these chhatrīs have been
made of red and grey stone blocks. These chhatrīs are growing kalasa finials in the
inverted lotus on the top of their domes, which is mostly missing. These chhatrīs

54 H. B. W. Garrick, op. cit., P. 27; G. Yazdani, op. cit., 584.


66 Medieval Monuments in India
are at some distance from the drum and proportionally placed. The outer top of
the drum is furnished with band of red sandstone. The skeleton of this drum is
made of grey and red sandstone blocks joined with iron clamps and mortar.
From outside it is covered with thick plastered. To hide this drum on all the main
four facades of the structure, the portal has been raised upward the back. The
dome is crowned with beautiful pinnacle finial rising from inverted lotus and is
made of rubble masonary.

Figure 15 : Ground plan of Ibrahim Khan Sur Tomb, Narnaul


(Source: Archaeological Survey of India)
Tombs 67
The mortuary chamber is having three gateways. The entrance gateway is
in the eastern side. Northern and southern gateways are closed with jālīs walls
and the western wall having a mihrab. The 10.4 m by 10.4 m square interior of the
tomb is dressed in grey stone. The corners of the chamber are covered with the
arches in which beautifully squinches have been erected. The inner contour
(intrados) of the arch is having flower bud design (also called as kangoora
designs). The interior of the hall is decorated with floral designs with beautifully
painted in different colours (Plate 47). The qibla wall (oriented in the direction of
Mecca) bears three niches or mihrabs. These mihrabs are designed differently. The
central mihrab is flaked higher than flanked ones (Plate 48). In this tomb,
horizontal panels of Quranic verses are placed above the central mihrab, while the
corresponding panel on the southern mihrab has no epigraph.55 The dome
emerges from a drum whose surface is relived by a series of niches framed in red
with a carved medallion in the centre, also in red. The lower ends of the arch are
made on the back of the carved. This outer arch rest on pilasters carved in the
form of wooden columns with vase shaped bases. At either sides of the mihrab
there are medallions in the spandrels of the arches, in the form of the inverted
lotus. The Islamic talisman of strength and victory is abundantly depicted on
mihrab and arched niches (Plate 49). In the centre of the chamber, originally there
are five gravestones; perhaps two of them are relatives (Plate 50).
The tomb was a gift of a grandson ever conscious of his family’s rather
humble ancestry, which he hoped to offset by raising magnificent monument in
memory of the dead. The tomb of Sher Shah’s grandfather is grander and much
more carefully crafted version of the type generally reserved for high ranking
nobles of previous Lodi dynasty which are generally small and made of roughly
hewn stone covered with a stucco veneer.56

*7# 8' ; 2 %= '

Shah Quli Khan served as Governor of Narnaul for 42 years in the reign of
Emperor Akbar57 (1556 1605). He was protege of Akbar’s guardian Bairam Khan.
He was the man whose arrow pierced Hemu’s eye in the second battle of
Panipat. Abul Fazl ascribes to him the restoration of the Mughal dynasty and
rising higher and higher in Akbar’s favour.58 First he rose in imperial favour
when he wounded the Hemu, preventing the fall of the Mughals. By the end of

55 Catherine B. Asher, ‘Building a Legacy: Sher Shah Sur’s Architecture and Politics of
Propaganda,’ The Architecture of The Indian Sultanates (Bombay: Marg Publication, 2006), 61
63.
56 Ibid., 67.
57 H. B. W. Garrick, op. cit., 28.
58 Abul Fazl, Ain i Akbari, I, trans. H. Blochmann, (repr. New Delhi: Crown Publication, 1988),
387.
68 Medieval Monuments in India
his life, he had been awarded the highest rank then bestowed on any noble.59 He
was the most prolific builder. His first building was the layout of a private
garden complex, Bagh Aram i Kausar. He built this tomb for his father but after
his death his mortal remains were also interred here (Plate 51). It is a good piece
of architecture standing amidst this idyllic setting. It was built in 1574 75, about
25 years before its Patrons’ demise.
Shah Quli Khan’s architecture in Narnaul was of a personal sort, rather
different from the enclosure he built at the Taragarh shrine. An arched entrance
gateway, now called the Tripolia gate, leads into the garden enclosure from the
west side of the walled enclosure. This gateway itself is an elegant structure. As
per the inscription it bears, this gate was built nearly a decade after the tomb, i.e.,
in 997 A.H./1588 89 A.D.60 It is three storeyed building with slightly sloping
walls of rubble, covered with a thick layer of plaster. The central room is
decorated with graceful designs. Under the long flights of steps, double stairs
lead to the second storey. One long flight of steps on its either side leads directly
to the third storey, which comprises one central room in each corner. The interior
as well as the facade of the gateway is adorned with pleasing designs.
The inscription61 over its entrance furnishes the date of erection of the
tomb, which is 1574 75 A.D (Plate 52). The inscription over the south doorways
which, in translation, is as follows:

“The eye of the sky has not seen its match, for in elegance it is unique and single.
Its roof is polished like a mirror, and its exterior is transparent like its interior. I
said in my mind, “O God! what would be the chronogram of this pleasant
building.” Wisdom suddenly, for the date of its completion, said, “The strong and
elegant dome.” 982 A.H. (1574 A.D.).

The inscription over the northern arch:

“The exalted Nawab, Shah Quli Khan, when he founded this tomb: The guardian
of Paradise as it were opened a door from heaven to this place. Whoever saw this
high dome said, “Many mercy be upon the Khan.”

To the south west of the main gateway, the tomb is seen standing on a
high platform approachable from south, each side measuring 11.5 m. It is
octagonal in plan. The tomb itself is also octagonal with each side 5.2 m outside
and 3.25 m inside (Figure 16). Each face of the tomb has a semi octagonal recess
covered with a pointed arch. In the western side, there is a stair case goes to the
terrace but at present it is closed with iron gateway. The southern one opening

59 Catherine B. Asher, The New Cambridge History of India: Architecture of Mughal India
(Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992), 82.
60 H. B. W. Garrick, op. cit., 28.
61 G. Yazdani, JPASB, III, 642 644; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 48.
Tombs 69
leads to the interior and rests of the three doorways have been closed with jālīs,
which provided light to the interior.62 The rest of the space on each face is
divided into panels each filled with designs carved in red sandstone. The tomb is
a small structure with red and grey contrasting stones surmounted by a white
dome. While the contrasting stones closely resemble those used on the nearby
tomb of Sher Shah’s grandfather. The tomb octagonal plan is very different from
the octagonal type constructed by the Lodi and Sur Kings. That type had
consisted of an eight sided verandah encircling a central chamber. However, Shah
Quli Khan’s tomb has no verandah.63
The parapet of the building, 8.5 m above the platform, is decorated with
merlon design. The floor level is marked on the exterior with a projecting ledge
all around the structure. The visual weight of the gray stone is negated by the use
of red stone as inset panels at the point of springing of the central archway in
each facade. The red stone also finds its way as a band at the junction of the walls
and the roof. A low dome resting on an octagonal drum, faced with arched
niches with opening in the cardinal sides screened with jālīs, forms the roof. The
dome finished in lime plaster sites in complete isolation without the additional
elements like Chhatrīs and guldastas that had brought about a gradual transition
from the roof to the wall plane is Ibrahim Khan’s Tomb.

Figure 16 : Ground plan of Shah Quli Khan Tomb, Narnaul

62 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 31.


63 Catherine B. Asher, The New Cambridge History of India, 83.
70 Medieval Monuments in India
The interior of the tomb is faced with marble. Apart from the graves of its
patron, it has five additional graves in it (Plate 53). The soffit of the domical
ceiling is adorned with designs painted in red and green colours. The tomb owes
its attractive appearance both to its harmonious proportions and the masterly
combination of colours, i.e. grey of its body, red of the designs and white of the
dome.
The tomb possibly drew inspiration from structure built for pleasure like
Sher Mandal in the Purana Qila at Delhi and Hada Mahal in the vicinity of
Ajmeri Darwaja at Fatehpur Sikri as both these structures is also derivatives of
the regular octagon. The building constructed some twenty five years before
Shah Quli Khan’s death was situated in a large planned garden and was used in
his life as part of his residential state.

*># $ ' ; 2 %= 2

Jalaluddin was a well known Sufi saint in the time of Akbar. Shaikh Abdal
Quddus Ganguhi was the spiritual teacher and khalifah, who is stated to have
completed his studies. Jalaluddin started lecturing when he was only
seventeen years old. Later he gave up studies, took to life of a Sufi, devoted
himself to prayers and started training and providing guidance to the people.
He was so particular about the observance of the commands of shariah, when he
had become exceedingly weak, ‘Having only skin and on bones left in his
body.’64 Shaikh Jalaluddin gradually withdrew him from active life and spent
his last years in retirement. Akbar seems to have held him in great regard and
in the course of his march on Kabul in 1581 when he was encamping at
Thanesar; he paid a visit to his hermitage.65 He was over 90 years old when he
died in 989 A.H /1581 A.D66. There is no inscription to tell us, when the tomb
was built.
This tomb is to the west of Shaikh Chehli (Plate 54). Main entrance of the
tomb is in the southern side. It is a square building. Each side is measuring 18’4”.
It is supported on 12 square sandstone pillars and built it have been filled with
bricks. The overhanging eaves are much broken. Just under them, in a deep
shadow, is an Arabic inscription going round the two sides and the back of the
tomb. On the south side or front the Tugra Arabic gives place to Nasta’liq Persian,
highly embellished with scrolls and foliage, but, illegible.67

64 Al Badaoni, Muntakhab ut Tawarikh. Ed. Sir Wolseley Haig further revised by Brahmadeva
Prasad Ambashthya (Patna: Academica Asiatica, 1973), 5.
65 S. Moinul Haq, “Sufi Shaikhs and Sufi Ports in the Seventeenth, Eighteenth and Nineteenth
Centuries”, JPHS, XXV (II), Karachi, 1977, 77 78.
66 Abul Fazl, Ain i Akbari, I, 607.
67 Rodgers, Report, 11.
Tombs 71
The dome is plastered and hemispherical in shape with inverted lotus
petals at the top. In each of the 21 merlons of the two sides and back is the word
Allah in an ornamented lozenge. In front there is a flower on each merlon.
Jalaluddin died in 989 for the chronogram of his death is ‘Shaikh al Aulia’
which gives 989. The Mantakhabu i Tawarikh also gives this date his chronogram.
The tomb of Jalaluddin having been built after A.H. 989/ 1581 A.D, gives us the
style of such buildings 300 years ago.
*?# 5 ; 2 %= '
Shaikh Shah Nizam al din was a famous saint of Narnaul. He was the disciple of
Shaikh Khanun. He was a Sufi, who attained the first stage of recognition of God
and had overcome his desires and had acquired complete hope in God’s mercy.68
Akbar himself went to Narnaul to visit the esteemed contemporary Chisti Shaikh
Nizam al din of the learned men of the time.69 The building is of Akbar’s time
and though then the style was greatly changed at the capital, yet in place distant
from it the old style was still prevalent. This building itself is a square tomb of
the usual Pathan style. It is the state protected monument.70 It had an
inscription71 over its doorways which read as follows:
“Alas! The leader of the world, the administrator of religion, has passed away,
whose holy nature was kneaded out of pure light. The exalted Shaikh, as he had an
angelic disposition, so when I counted the date of his death, it came out, “He was
an angel.” 997 AH (1589 AH).
All the four portals of the tomb are having deep recessed arch divided
into two parts, which contain arched openings one on the other. The upper
openings are smaller than that of the lower ones, which are the doorways of the
mortuary hall. On both sides of the main portals, there are two blind niches,
one on the other. The parapet covering the whole structure is made up of bricks
and rubbles. The opening is decorated in lintel style, which is attached with
Lodi style. However the building is made up in the Akbar’s period. There was
an inscription on the top of the main gate. But at present it was found missing
here.
The square mortuary hall is measuring 9.5 m by 9.5 m in outside, and is
open from all the main four sides and its corners are having arched squinches.
The walls are divided into two parts. The upper part is having four intersecting
arches which are interlocked each other making plain pendentives at each corner.
The height of the chamber is divided into two parts. There is no grave in the
centre of the mortuary hall, which might have been destroyed when it was being
used.

68 Al Badaoni, op. cit., 44 45.


69 Catherine B. Asher, The New Cambridge History of India, 82.
70 Vide letter No. 46 (GOI) (2) Ed II 68/3286.
71 G. Yazdani, JPASB, III, 640; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 48 49.
72 Medieval Monuments in India
The terrace of the tomb is accessible by some stairs and on the terrace
there is no balustrade around it. In the centre of terrace, there is an octagonal
drum, plaster of which is almost chipped off and is exposing skeleton of rubble
masonry. The octagonal drum is having single dome roofing the chamber that is
totally decorated. The dome is crowned with beautiful finial rising from inverted
lotus and is made of rubble masonry.

*/# ' "2 % =$ <<

This group of tombs is located outside the town (Jhajjar) on the right side of the
Jhajjar Delhi road. There are six magnificent tombs (Plate 55). They are built in a
unique style, in an area of 500 m by 300 m together. These are constructed in the
Pathan style with little variation. Each tomb stands on a raised platform,
approached by a flight of steps and is having a mosque attached to it. There have
been constructed of lateritic stone blocks (locally called bichhwa kankar), mortared
and plastered with lime mixed with brickbats. Red sandstone was used only for
decorative purpose. A few of these also have chhatrīs in the courtyard. Almost all
these tombs bear inscriptions providing valuable information. Another of their
characteristic features is the presence of medallions in spandrels of arches. Most
of tombs have been upturned and disturbed by treasure seeking people who
believed that untold wealth lay hidden under these.72

' ' *

This structure facing east is raised on a platform and consists of an entrance


gateway and an Idgah. The platform is rectangular in shape with four octagonal
bastions at four corners and a flight of steps at the centre of the eastern wall.
Above the steps is the entrance gateway, rectangular in shape. It consists of the
walls with single arched opening over which is the crenellated parapet wall with
a stringcourse. No inscription is seen over it. Attached with the back wall is the
Idgah with its wall extending over the northern and southern walls. Its elevation
consists of the wall with three niches of which two remain extant. The central one
forms the mihrab. The bastions to the corners are topped with pinnacles. To the
centre is an over extending rectangular crenellated parapet wall. Rest of the area
forms the courtyard.

' ' -

This structure facing east, oriented east west, is raised on platform and consists
of an entrance gateway, a chhatrī and an Idgah. The platform on a lesser height is
squarish in shape with four octagonal bastions at four corners all interlinked

72 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 33.


Tombs 73
with battlements. On the centre of the eastern wall along the steps is the entrance
gateway, rectangular in shape with an arched opening. It shows the walls with
lotus bossed over the upper corners of the arch followed by a crenellated parapet
wall and a stringcourse. There is red sandstone over the eastern gateway,
measuring 27” by 13”, of the graveyard of Mian Raib, bore an inscription73 (Plate
56), which gives full, details as under:

“In the time of shah Akbar, by whose justice came blessing upon the crown of the
world* * * Miyan Raib, son of Piyara. The town full of light, Jhajjar, is the repose
of all nobles. In the year 1002, in the month of Ramzan [began the 21th May
1594] * * *.”

According to this inscription Miyan Raib, son of Pyara, built this tomb in
the month of Ramzan, 1002/1593 94 AD in the town of Jhajjar Purnur74 (full of
light). To the north eastern corner in the open courtyard is an octagonal chhatrī. It
consists a small octagonal plinth over which is the pillars followed by the chajjā
or eaves, the drum, the dome and a finial. The pillars have octagonal torus with
tapering head followed by an octagonal shaft over which rests the four sided
brackets and four sided scroll capital. The exterior and interior of the dome is
plastered.
The back wall is attached with the Idgah. The Idgah facing east is
rectangular in shape with front open. Its elevation consists of walls with a mihrab
at centre flanked by six niches (Plate 57). Over it, are the battlements followed by
crenellated parapet wall with two pinnacles at the centre. The four corners of this
Idgah show on top four pinnacles. Red sandstone has been used at parts on the
façade. Besides these, there are two graves within the courtyard – one within the
chhatrī and the other in the open. The first bears an Arabic inscription on it. At its
feet is a Persian inscription meaning, “every one who has come into the world has to
depart”.75 The second inscription bears the name of Ghyasuddin.

' ' 7

It is totally ruined structure located to the extreme south west corner of the site.
It is raised over low platforms. However it contains an inscription according to
which the tomb belonged to Hasan Shaheed who was killed during the reign of
Jahangir in 1035 A.H/1625 26 A.D76, which is as follows:

73 Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 36; P. Horn, EI, II, 133; S. R. Phogat, op. cit., 64 65.
74 Rodgers, Revised List, 78.
75 Ibid.
76 Ibid; Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 33; Bianca Maria Alfieri, op. cit., 233; P. Horn, EI, II,
134; S. R. Phogat, op. cit., 66. Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 38.
74 Medieval Monuments in India
“In the time of Jahangir, the king of the world, this light tomb of Hasan Shahid
has been made. The date of it for a tomb has been brought by somebody (?) in the
year 1035 (3rd September, 1625).”

' ' >

This tomb facing east is raised on a platform and consists of a mosque, a chhatri
and an entrance gateway. The platform of a lesser height is rectangular in shape
with two octagonal bastions on the corners of its western wall. On the centre of
the southern wall is the entrance gateway, rectangular in shape with double
arched opening. It is double arched opening with each arch carrying two lotus
bosses at its upper corners (Plate 58). Over it is the crenellated parapet wall with
a stringcourse. Interior of this gateway is decorated with floral deigns.
To the front of the gateway in the open courtyard is an octagonal chhatrī. It
consists in small octagonal plinth which are the pillars followed by the chhajjā or
eaves, the drum with stringcourse, the dome and a finial. The pillars have an
octagonal torus with tapering head followed by a slender octagonal shaft over
which rests the four sided brackets and a four sided scroll capital. It was made of
red bricks. The exterior and the interior of the dome are plastered (Plate 59). The
plaster of the interior has chipped off. The gravestone is lying outside the chhatrī.
The tomb has been upturned and disturbed by treasure seeking people who
believed that untold wealth lay hidden under these.
Attached with a mosque in the western side of the platform, the mosque
facing east is a rectangular structure with five arched openings three on the east
and one each to the north and south. Over outside the entrance gateway of the
mosque is a red sandstone slab, Measuring 21” by 17”, bears an inscription77 in
Persian, which tells us that it is the tomb of Ismail, son of Raib. The inscription is
as under:

“In a good career is the faith of Islam in the time of the king Nuraddin (Jahangir)
O God! May his justice and equity stand firm and solid a thousand years! This
mosque has been built by Ismail Irah Raib, who is student of the faith. I asked the
mind the date year, the guiding mind (said) to me ‘1020’ (16th March 1611). (I), a
hermit, the poor Abd as Samad, the son of Maken, who belongs to the family of
the Abbassides/ To the companions of Muhammad the Arabian, the pious ones in
the high paradise.”

According to this inscription, Ismail Irah Raib founded this mosque in


1020A.H (1611 A.D.) during the period of Jahangir in the hermit of Abd as
samad, son of Makan. The corners are attached with octagonal bastions. They are
interlinked with a stringcourse and a crenellated parapet wall and a flat roof.

77 Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 37; P. Horn, EI, II, 133 34; S. R. Phogat, op. cit., 65 66;
Rodgers, Revised List, 78.
Tombs 75
Above it is raised the superstructure with a drum divided into two by another
stringcourse followed by the dome and a battered conical finial. The flooring
inside is of mud while the ceiling, divided into three, is in domical fashion
interlinked with arched squinch of all corners. The walls are plastered from
inside only and show geometrical and floral patterns in brown. Red sandstone
has been used at parts on the façade. The back wall from inside hosts the mihrab
flanked by two other niches. The spandrels of the arched gateway have coloured
decoration.

' ' ?

This structure, facing east, raised on a platform is consisting a tomb, a chhatrī and
Idgah. The platform is rectangular in shape with four octagonal bastions at four
corners and a flight of steps at the centre of the eastern wall. The walls are
crenellated from outside and carry a stringcourse at its beneath. Its northern and
southern walls have an opening each at the junction of the platform walls with
the mihrab walls.
The Idgah facing east, has a rectangular projected structure. Its eastern side
hosts the mihrab while to the west are two small octagonal pillars like bastions at
corners. On either side facing five niches in each side with false arch openings
situated. It comprise of the walls with bastions having pinnacles on each corner.
They are interlinked with battlements. The central mihrab has series of tiers in
rectangular and arched forms with two lotus bosses on upper corners. From its
top extends below a stepped wall with chamfered edges on each side (Plate 60).
The tomb is an octagonal huge structure with four arched openings of
which the western one is closed (Plate 61). They are alternated by four other false
arched openings. From inside the tomb is square. Its elevation consists of huge
walls topped with a stringcourse, battlements and a flat roof. Above it is raised
the superstructure with a drum divided into two by another stringcourse
followed by the dome and partly extant finial. The central arches on the façade
carry three other small arches at its top while the lateral arches have only a single
arch on its top. The flooring is of mud. In the western wall, there is a mihrab
decorated with colour deigns. The ceiling is divided into nine, is in domical
fashion interlinked with arches and squinch arches. The walls are plastered from
inside only and show traces of painted designs at its soffit. The rest of the interior
was also adorned with geometrical and floral patterns painted in yellow, ochre,
green and red, the traces of which are still extant. Red sandstone has not been
used in this tomb at all. There is no inscription on it.
In the courtyard is an open chhatrī or cupola situated to the northeastern
corner. It is octagonal in plan and consists in small octagonal plinths over which
are the pillars followed by the chajjā or eaves, the drum with stringcourse, the
dome and a finial. The pillars have an octagonal shaft over which rests the four
76 Medieval Monuments in India
sided brackets and four sided scroll capital. The exterior and interior of the dome
is plastered.

' ' /

This structure, facing east, is raised on a double platform. The first of a lesser
height is rectangular in shape with four octagonal bastions at four corners and a
flight of steps at the centre of the eastern wall. The walls are crenellated from
outside. The second platform of a greater height too is rectangular and has four
hollowed octagonal bastions at four corners interlinked by a stringcourse. The
southern bastion has staircase inside. The parapet walls are crenellated from
outside. The western wall shows a rectangular projection cornered by two
octagonal bastions of lesser dimensions. Two other octagonal bastions flank them
again. On the top is the mosque78, rectangular in plan, with five arched
openings three on the east and one each on the north and the south (Plate 62).
Two small bastions can be seen at corners of the eastern wall. The mosque is
attached to the western wall at the centre. The rest of the area has the sahn or the
open courtyard on all the three sides. Three arches on the façade of the flat
roofed walls followed by a rectangular drum at the centre of the roof divided
into two by another stringcourse and then by a dome and a half broken finial.
The central arch on the façade is decorated with lotus bosses on upper corners.
Over the central outer arch of the Kalal Khan’s masjid near the Buawalla
tank, on a red sand stone measuring 2’9” by 7’5” is an inscription79 of the three
lines:

“By the grace and favour of the aids of the setter of the world, this high place has
been arranged and constructed. Kalal Khan has built this high mosque in the time
of Shahjahan, the refuge of men. It was in the year 1039 [21st August 1629]. God
may he be honoured and exalted! it in the safety and security.”

This man is said to have been a mace bearer of Jahangir. The façade
carries red sandstone at some parts. Inside, the flooring is of mud while the
ceiling divided into three, is in domical fashion interlinked with arcade and
squinch arches at four corners. The walls are decorated at parts by floral motifs.
The back wall shows a mihrab at the centre flanked by two other niches.

78 R. S. Bist and Mulk Raj Anand write, ‘the first from the east is the most imposing on account
of its high platform, approached by flight of steps. The main tomb is unusual, an oblong
structure crowned by a dome. In fact, the building referred to is a mosque and not a tomb.
They recorded that it was constructed by Kalal Khan in A.H. 1009 i.e., 1600 A.D (Bist, R. S.
and Mulk Raj Anand. Haryana Heritage. Marg, XXVII, Bombay, 1974, 23). But the date
mentioned in the inscription is 1039 A.H. and not 1009 A.H. The complete inscription as
translated by P. Horn in EI, II, Reprint, 135 36.
79 P. Horn, EI, II, 135 36; S. R. Phogat, op. cit., 68; Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 37;
Rodgers, Revised List, 79.
Tombs 77
Architecturally, the tombs fall in the group of the Pathan mausoleum and
cannot be far removed from each other in date. The whole planning, design and
decoration are similar. The monotony of the façade is relieved by the use of bold
outlines. The near hemispherical and proportionate domes over heavy necks
make them interesting survivors of the Pathan style into the Mughal period. All
these monuments are in an utter state of neglect. The exclusive tombs of the 16th
– 17th century need an urgent care and protection failing which there would be a
great architectural and historical loss.

*0# '4 % ; 2 %=

The original name of Muqarrab Khan, a Jahangir’s noble, was Shaikh Hasan. His
father Shaikh Bina and his grandfather were renowned surgeons of Panipat.
Shaikh Hasan rose to great honors and received the title of Muqarrab Khan from
Jahangir. Father and son in the 41st year succeeded in curing a bad wound, which
Akbar had received from a buck at a deer fight. Hassu was a physician to prince
Salim. He was much attached to him. After his accession, he was made a
commander of 5000 and governor of Gujarat. He gave no satisfaction and was
recalled. In the 13th year he was made of governor of Bihar. In the beginning of
Shah Jahan’s reign, he was pensioned off and received the pargana of Haryana as
Jagir. It was his birthplace and died here at the age of ninety.80
He constructed his mausoleum near the tomb of renowned saint Bu Ali
Qalandar at Panipat in 1643 A.D (Plate 63). In the southern side, the central
chamber of this tomb is surrounded by a screened verandah with the help of
brackets and pillars. The main gate of the tomb is also in the southern side. It has
an inscription on the gate.81 It is on a marble slab, measuring 15’.5” by 5” and in
Persian text. It bears three lines. First line has only one word and third line has
only date. The translation of the text is as follows:

“Tomb of Muqarrab Khan Kairanvi who was the wasir of Jahangir, 1053 A.H./
the year began from 12th March 1643 A.D”.

The whole verandah is having twenty pillars of red sandstone and has a
flat ceiling (except corners) with the help of brackets. The whole ceiling is
supported on a chhajjā, which runs around all sides. This is the simple method of
the trabeate roofing with brackets and beams as main constituents used in this
tomb. The main mortuary hall is elongated dome. It contains sixteen pillars, eight
pillars in the side way and eight pillars having all four corner. These pillars are in
simple style and at present it has been red painted. The jālīs have been divided
into two parts, the lower part is hexagonal and the upper part of the jālī is David
Star pattern used. This six pointed star formed by a combination of two triangles,

80 Abul Fazl, Ain i Akbari, I, 613.


81 Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 55; Chand Singh Kadiyan, PIHC, 408 9.
78 Medieval Monuments in India
is an ancient tantric motif, which represents power (Shakti) and is an important
symbol for under taking all religious rituals.82 Monolithic lattice of this kind were
used carefully and decorated the tomb. First time monolithic lattices have been
used in the Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi.

Figure 17: Ground plan of (A) Bu Ali Qalandar and (B) Muqarrab Khan Tombs, Panipat

The mortuary hall with ceiling from the side projects massive brackets
that support the side beams. In the hall, there are six gravestones (Figure 17 B)
i.e. Muqarrab Khan and his family members (Plate 64). These graves are made of
zahar mohara pathar.83 On the southwest corner there is a blind arched niche for
light the lamp in the tomb. Allah in Persian language is carved on both the upper
corner of the blind niche. The appearance of the interior of the dome is very
simple. The tomb does not have any chhatrīs, turrets and drum etc.
In this tomb there is no drum and dome but there is ladao ceiling. It may
be termed tentatively as wagon vaulted, made up of slanting beams,
intermediary space filled in by panels, supporting a flat ceiling in the center. The

82 P.K. Sharma, Mughal Architecture of Delhi, 161.


83 Local people believe that zahar mohara pathar used to suck the poison from the body.
Tombs 79
dome is crowned with three beautiful finial made of rubble masonry. It seems to
be no big change in its original structure.

*@# %' 8 ; 2 %=

Shaikh Sharafuddin Abu Ali Qalandar was son of Salar Fakhruddin. He was born
in 602 AH (1202 A.D.). He died at the age of 122 years in 13 Ramzan 724 H. Khizr
Khan and Shadi Khan, sons of Emperor Alauddin Khalji, erected this tomb.
Shaikh Abu Ali Qalandar was a prominent Qalandar of Hindustan. Like others,
he had previously been a trained religious scholar but in a fit of ecstasy, gave
away his books and became a Qalandar, though he using the Sharia laws. There
was an inscription84 on the tomb, which is as follows:

1. “This is the place where the light of God’s glory and perfection appears, like
Jesus, it gives life to the dead.
2. Muqarrab Khan, the Plato of his age, had a son Rizqullah Khan.
3. When Bu Ali [the Panipat Saint] recognized this Bu Ali [i.e. this great
doctor], he [Rizqullah], thus honored, became the Aristotle of his age.
4. He then ordered the erection of this paradisiac portico, below which each pillar
is made of touchstone.
5. I put thought to the touch, in order to discover the year of the building, when I
beheld the gold of alchemy,
6. And the year of its erection appeared in the value of the letters ‘the noble
Rizqullah Khan’ [1071, A.H., or A.D. 1660]”.

A 17th century Chistiyya believed that Abu Ali had been initiated into
Chistiyya order by Khwaja Qutb ud Din Bakhtiyar Kaki’s spirit. This gave rise to
a Chistiyya Qalandariyya Silsila.85 Qalandariyya Chistiyya legends claim that the
celebrated Qalandar Shaikh Sharafud din Abu Ali Qalandar of Panipat was either
the disciple of Shah Khizr Rumi or that of Saiyid Nizamud din. This linked him
with Khwaja Qutb ud Din Bakhtiyar Kaki. According to Shaikh Abul Haq, he
claims that Shaikh Abu Ali was the disciple of Khawaja Qutb ud din Bakhtiyar or
of Shaikh Nizamud din Aulia was inauthentic. Abdur Rahman Chishti
compromised by asserting that Shaikh Abu Ali Qalandar had been initiated into
the chishtiyya order by the spirit of Shaikh Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. Whatever
his spiritual lineage, Shaikh Abu Ali Qalandar was a scholar and a stern ascetic
who renounced the world and became totally engrossed in self mortification and
contemplation as a Qalandar he refused to observe the rules of the Sharia.
Although Shaikh Abu Ali lived for sometime in the village of Karnal, most
of his life was spent in Panipat, where his father Salar Fakhruddin, had migrated
from Iraq. After the Shaikh’s death (3 September 1324 A.D.), both the people of

84 H. Blochmann, PASB, (1873), 97; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 55.


85 S.A.A. Rizvi, The Wonder That was India, II (London: Sidqwick and Jackson Ltd, 1996), 250.
80 Medieval Monuments in India
Karnal and Panipat claimed his grave to be in their respective towns. However,
the Shaikh is well known as Sharafuddin Panipati and therefore it is reasonable to
assume he was buried in his hometown.86
The structure surrounding the dargah of Abu Ali Qalandar is quite large.
The main gate of the dargah is in southern side. Its main enclosure measures 155’
by 143’ in northern side and 138’ by 146’ in the southern. The tomb is in the
northern enclosure (Plate 65) but it has entry from the middle one. Its length is
66’8.5” and depth is 24’6”. The outer length of the tomb is 33’2.5” and width is
24’.6”. The inner length is 24’11” and width is 24’.5” (Figure 17 A). It has verandah
on its southern side, the outer one having pillars of Kasauti pather (touch stone)
(Plate 66). The perforated jālīs separates the tomb from the enclosure. The tomb
itself seems to be the old part of the entire surroundings. Rizqualah Khan, son of
the Muqarrab Khan (a hakim in the service of Emperor Akbar) in 1660 A.D added
the Kasauti pillared verandah. Within the Shrine Muqarrab Khan built a walled
enclosure around the tomb.87 In the time of Aurangzeb beautiful paintings and
stylistic calligraphy carved on its walls. The marble screen in its front is of fine
workmanship.
In front of the dome there are two verandahs, which are beautifully
decorated paintings with flourished deigns. The decoration seems to the
Rajasthani Gujarati stile but jālī work added latter period. The ceiling of the
verandah has also been decorated with golden colour deigns (Plate 67). Outer
verandah has three entrance gate and inner verandah has only one gate. Both sides
have Quranic inscriptions. Eastern sidewall of the inner verandah has also been
decorated with flower leaf deigns painting.
The mortuary hall of the tomb has been decorated with squinches, which
is plane. This one was also decorated with natural and geometric deigns. Marble
stone is used from main hall to outer verandah. Jālī work made out in the way of
the mortuary hall. The height of this way is very low. The main mortuary hall is
rectangular in shape due to repair its length and width has been low and high.
Marble is used up to dado and then tiles are used. All the above decoration was
not in original form but added in latter period. Above the grave light has been
fixed which is lying on four pillars. These pillars are mainly stones but now
decorated. The length of the grave is 9’6” and width of the grave is 7’2”.
Along with the time, a noticeable change has been taken place in the tomb.
The tomb has a single dome building. At present repaint has been made and the
plaster of its dome has been replaced. At the four corners of the structure, there
is high parapet. These parapets are having octagonal turrets on the top portion of
the dome. In the centre of the terrace, an octagonal drum made of bricks and
externally plastered over it. There is no geometrical or floral design on the drum.
On this drum, a bulbous dome of this tomb is rest. The ceiling of the dome is

86 S.A.A. Rizvi, Sufism, I, 305.


87 Catherine B. Asher, The New Cambridge History of India, 24 28.
Tombs 81
very low and thick. The dome is crowned with beautiful finial rising from
inverted lotus and is made of rubble masonry.

*3# ; 2 %=

It is said that Roshan Chiragh, after leaving his native town Madina, came to
India in Shahjahan’s time. He was settled at Palwal, a town 29 miles from
Faridabad, and after his death he was buried here. This was at the time when
order was issued for the construction of emperor’s seraglio. For the city of
Shahjanabad red sandstone was supplied from Fatehpur Sikri. The tradition says
that when the red sand stone loaded carts were passing through Palwal on their
way to Delhi he took a contribution of one stone from every cart and thus
collected material for his tomb.88 Tomb of Shah Roshan Chiragh is standing in
the middle of the town (Plate 68). The tomb is in fair preservation.
On a slab of red sandstone 1’ 6” by 6” is four lines in Persian verses in
Nasta’liq character. The first line is almost entirely obliterated. The inscription
records the date of erection of Sayyid Chiragh tomb, viz. 1072 A.H./1661 A.D.89

“* * * . Sayyid Chiragh, the inhabitant of Madina, one appeared who was like him
among the possessors of secret. When I asked wisdom for its date, it said, ‘this
Mausoleum became the redresser of grief.’ Date 28th of Dhu i Hijjal year 1072.”

The tomb is having three recessed portals. The southern one is the main
entrance door to the chamber in the rectangular shape. The whole structure,
portals and corners were profusely ornamented. Its decorative niches flanked
each portal on its both sides. On above the doors, there are arched lattice screen
adjacent above the gate.
All the corners of the chamber have been deeply chamfered for making
semi octagonal recessed internally decorated with geometrical and arabesque
designs. The upper portion of these alcoves is having arches on their top corners
for making semi soffit. Internally, the tomb is square and having eight arched
squinches around it. The interior of the hall is artificially divided into two parts,
which show it as double storeyed structure. There is one gravestone in the centre
of the mortuary hall but the real mortuary hall is in the basement. It is closed by
the stone slabs. The basement is made of bricks and all the plaster of the wall is
chipped off. The upper main mortuary hall is totally made of red sand stone.
In the centre of terrace, there is a cylindrical drum. The whole dome is
almost made rubble masonry and covered with red sand stone blocks. The sand
stone blocks are mostly chipped off and is exposing skeleton. The ceiling of the
dome is very low and thick. The dome is crowned with beautiful finial rising
from inverted lotus and is made of sand stone.

88 Rodgers, Revised List, 83.


89 Maulvi Muhammad Shu’aib, “Inscription from Palwal” EIM (1911 12), Calcutta, 1914, 4.
82 Medieval Monuments in India
-.# 2 %= 2

Shaikh Chehli was a famous Sufi saint whom Mughal emperor Shah Jahan held in
great esteem. He was the famous Shaikh Chehli of popular folklore90. Rodgers is
of the view that Chehli was not his name but only a title, conferred upon one
who frequently performed chillas.91 There is also a dissension regarding his
name, some having called him Abdul Rahim, some Abd ul Karim and others
Abd ul Razzak.92 During the twelfth year of Shah Jahan’s reign, he was
appointed Diwan of Prince Dara Shikoh.93 The twenty fourth year of Shah Jahan’s
reign was appointed wakil of Dara Shikoh. He received the mansab of 2000 and
posted as faujdar of Sirhind. He died in the 1659 60.
There is a Madrasa in the compound where the studies took place.
Architecturally, a madrasa was usually composed of teaching rooms, a library, a
mosque and accommodations for teachers and students.94 Madrasa of Shaikh
Chehli is adjoining to the southern wall of the tomb and is built on a level six
meters lower than the tomb itself. The enclosure of the madrasa is exactly the
same size, i.e., 53 m square from outside. There is a small gateway in the south
west corner of the madrasa. Its main entrance is on the eastern side, approached
by a flight of steps, rising with a gentle slope from the main road.95
The madrasa is quadrangle constructed around an open courtyard. Each
interior side of the quadrangle has nine chambers, each entered through a high
arch. These deeply recessed entrances emphasize the flatness of the surface,
recalling Iranian prototypes.96 It has a courtyard, 35.8 m by 37.5 m in area (Plate
69). In its centre is a square tank of 8.2 m side. The madrasa is of brick structure
but Cunningham says, “The building is formed entirely of the spoils of Hindu
temples, the arcades being supported on plain Hindu pillars”.97 Its over all
dimensions are 102.8 m from north to south and 51.7 m from east to west,
excluding the octagonal bastions at it corners. The building is attached to two
tombs believed to be those of Shaikh Chehli and his relative.

90 Prof. R. Nath assumed that people know him; its local name Shaikh Chilli and bequiled by the
agent of Aurangzeb but it was not true.
91 Rodgers, Reports, 10.
92 A. Cunningham, ASI Report, XXV, 222.
93 Subhash Parihar, The Mughal Monuments, 35 36.
94 Subhash Parihar, Some Aspect of Indo Islamic Architecture (New Delhi: Inter India Publications,
1999), 169 171.
95 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 45 46.
96 Catherine B. Asher, The New Cambridge History of India, 228.
97 Cunningham’s statement does not true but Rodgers opines that the General’s not was
intended perhaps for the Pathariya Masjid nearby it; Rodgers, Report, 10.
Tombs 83

Figure 18 : Plan of Shaikh Chehli Tomb, Thanesar


(Source: Subhash Parihar, Some Aspect of Indo Islamic Architecture)

The tomb of Shaikh Chehli is the most impressive monument of the


Mughal time. David Ross has ranked it second only to the famous Taj Mahal.98
The tomb of the Shaikh Chehli from part of the madrasa and taken together the
complex gives a vivid idea of the general character of madrasa of Mughal time.99
It stands on a high mound to the north end of the main bazaar and is visible from
a far. The tomb in the complex is approached by stairways in the northeast and
northwest corners of the madrasa, which is built by brick, red sand stones. The
platform on which the tomb stand measures 51.9 by 50.2 m and rises 4.2 m and is
higher than the floor of the madrasa. The walls of the platform have been built
into twelve octagonal chhatrīs. These are having inverted lotus on the top of the
domes which is mostly missing. The dome of each chhatrī was originally adorned
with variegated glazed tiles (Plate 70). Most of the tile has disappeared but traces
of blue, purple and green tiles can still be seen.
In the midst of the terrace has an octagonal platform of 0.62 m high and
10.25 m side. This platform was once surrounded with posts and trelliswork

98 David Ross, op. cit., 241.


99 A. Cunningham, ASI Report, XXV, 222.
84 Medieval Monuments in India
(Jālī).100 This work was 52 cm high and the posts, which supported it, were 66 cm
high and 12.7 cm square. In the middle of this octagonal platform is another
platform of the same shape. The tomb itself is octagonal in shape, measuring 5.4
m on the outside and 3.4 m inside (Plate 71). Each face of the tomb has a recess,
3.25 m wide and 0.82 m deep and covered with cusped arch that is characteristic
of Shah Jahan’s period (Figure 18). Each recess is filled with two marble screens
carved in floral patterns. A wide chhajjā runs all round the top of the building.
The whole is crowned with a pear shaped dome resting on a circular neck and
surrounded by eight elegant pinnacles at each angle,101 rising little above of its
parapet by reducing its circumference on the top. There are two graves of which,
one grave is believed to be Shaikh Chehli and another belongs to his wife (Plate
72). Both graves are of white marble but they are not the actual sarcophagi. But
the original graves are under the tomb in the madrasa building (Plate 73). The
soffit of the dome is decorated with carved painted net patterns.
In the western wall of the enclosure is another structure, said to be the
tomb of Shaikh Chehlie’s relatives.102 It stands on a marble platform and is
covered with an elongated dome of the same material. It measures 6.7 m by 4.1 m
inside. The longer walls of the building have three openings. The central opening
on the eastern side forms the entrance. The other openings are filled with a
marble trellis. The corners of the building were originally marked with a flower
pinnacle. Its sandstone walls of the building are divided into panels, each having
a simple design carved in base relief (Plate 74). An elongated dome surmounted
with a sheath a lotus petals and two finial crowns the structure. The extension
sandstone walls of the building are divided in to panels each having a simple
design carved in base relief. The vase and flowers is the main motif.
There is no inscription on the tomb. But architecturally, the tomb of Shaikh
Chehli resembles in many respects octagonal plan, the use of pinnacles at
corners, decoration with glazed tile on chhatrīs, base relief carving etc. the tomb
of Firoz Khan Khwazasarai, which stands a few miles away from the Agra, on the
road to Gawaliar.103 On the basis of its pear shaped dome and flowered marble
lattice, Cunningham ascribes it to the days of Dara Shikoh to whom Shaikh
Chehli is said to have been spiritual advisor in about 1650 A.D.104

100 Rodgers, Reports, 10.


101 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 35 36.
102 Dr. Subhash Parihar thinks it is a mosque. But there is no sign of mosque – such as mihrab,
mimbar, projected qibla wall and minarets etc. I think that it is, in fact, a tomb because there
are two graves inside the building. The tomb of Muqarrab Khan at Panipat has a similar type
monument.
103 R. Nath, Some Aspects of Mughal Architecture (New Delhi: Abhinav Publications, 1976), 120 28.
104 Cunningham, A.S.I. Report, II, 223.
)?

= ) 6

The very mention of the words sarais, kos minars and bridges of the medieval
times readies us to set out to another thing, i.e. rout or routes, for the former are
as related to the latter as, in the folk manner of speaking, choli and daman (corset
and skirt). To study the sarais, kos minars and bridges, therefore, we go to the
routes or, for the sake of simplicity, say roads, they are located on. In the
medieval times, a wide network of roads criss crossed all the parts of Delhi
Sultanate1 and laterly the Mughal Empire. The sarais, kos minars and bridges were
built on these routes – roads to facilitate their uses – the travellers. The following
routes – roads were mainly used by the people during the medieval times: (I)
Agra – Delhi – Lahore Route (II) Delhi – Ajmer Route. The monuments under
study were located on these routes, a class – wise study of which is attempted
below:

SARAIS

The tradition of sarais on highways seems to have originated, for the first time, in
India.2 According to an Ashokan inscription the sarais were nimsidhiya3 (resting
place). Unfortunately, no buildings as such or even remains thereof are traceable
now. We only come across their medieval counterparts, called sarai. Sarai Persian
word, which means a palace, an edifice; but in Hindustani, it is a halting place. It
usually consisted of an enclosed yard with a chamber round it.4 There were a

1 H.C. Verma, Medieval Routes to India: Baghdad to Delhi (Calcutta: Naya Prokash, 1978), 181.
2 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments in The Punjab and Haryana (Delhi: Inter India
Publication, 1985), 18.
3 E. Hultzsch, Corpus Inscriptionum Indcarum, I, Delhi, 1969, 134 35.
4 A. K. M. Farooque, Roads and Communication in Mughal India (Delhi: Idarah I Adabiyat I
Delhi, 1977), 96.
86 Medieval Monuments in India
large number of sarais built in the medieval times in different parts of India.
There is, fortunately, no dearth of them in Haryana also.

Map 4: Sarais in Haryana (Not to scale)


Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 87
There is sufficient evidence that sarais were in existence in the Sultanate
period.5 But unfortunately, none of these sarais, like their ancient counterparts,
has come to us. Sher Shah Suri (1540 45 A.D.) is credited with having built sarais
at the termination of every two kos (approximately 8 kilometers), to facilitate
travel.6 He constructed 1700 sarais in all in his brief reign;7 unfortunately, our
region has no sarai of this period. After him, the Mughal built a large number of
sarais of which seven have come to us in Haryana (Map 4). These sarais though
documented have not been described and discussed in full details in our
histories. In what follows, tried to supply the desideratum.

SARAIS :
Sarai’s
1. Palwal Sarai Palwal
2. Gharaunda Sarai Gharaunda
3. Taraori Sarai Taraori
4. Thanesar Sarai Kurukshetra
5. Shahabad Sarai Shahabad Markanda
6. Bal Mukand Das Sarai Narnaul
7. Saraikhera Sarai Saraikhera (Mewat)

) +

*# Sarai

Palwal is a small town in the district bearing its name (Palwal) in Haryana. It is
situated at a distance of approximately 54 kms from Delhi on the Delhi Mathura
Road. The old Agra – Delhi Lahore Highway passed through the town. There is
a sarai in the middle of the town. The sarai enclosure measures 147 x 89 m. It had
a long, broad passageway but now 3.6 m broad and 6.8 m deep passageway of it
survives (Plate 75). It had several rooms. Each ordinary room measured 3.2 m
square. It is fronted by a 1.8 m deep verandah. The rooms in each corner of the
sarai are of the same size but are attached at the rear to a square chamber, which
is further attached to an octagonal chamber. The verandahs of the corner rooms
also have small room on either side. Stalactites appear on the soffits of the
entrance arch of the passageway.8

5 Ziya ud din Barni, Tarikh i Firoz Shahi, Elliot & Dowson, History of India as Told by its own
Historians, III (repr. Allahabad, 1964.), 180 81; Shams i Siraj Afif, Tarikh i Firoz Shahi, ed. Elliot
& Dowson, III, 354.
6 Abbas Khan Sarwani, Tarikh i Sher Shah. Trans., Brahamdev Prasad (Patna: K.P. Jayaswal
Research Institute, 1974), 761 62.
7 Ibid. 417 418.
8 Subhash Parihar, Land Transport in Mughal India: Agra Lahore Mughal Highway and Its
Architectural Remain. (New Delhi: Aryan Book International, 2008), 133.
88 Medieval Monuments in India
The sarai, according to J.D. Beglar, was built during Shah Jahan’s period
(1627 58).9 There is no ground to doubt or dispute his contention. As per its exact
authorship, we are absolutely devoid of any historical information. It is perhaps
the work of some local worthy or official. At present, this sarai is being used as
shops. In 1890, the British Government sold it to the occupants.10 To suit their
needs, these men have made many alterations leaving little of its original fabric
intact. It is difficult to revive the original sarai but at least the passageway (part)
be saved to show and suggest that sometime a sarai stood there.

-# ' Sarai

Gharaunda is situated approximately 16 kms from Panipat on the Panipat


Karnal Road on the National Highway No. 1. To the east of the town is located
the Mughal sarai. Once a very beautiful building, now its only two gateways are
surviving. They are in the middle of the southern and northern sides of the sarai.
Beginning with the southern gateway, one finds the cusped arched
opening of the gateway contained in a larger recess covered with an arch of
similar shape (Plate 76). One balcony supported on corbelled brackets, is
projected on its either side. Except some sunken panels, the rest of the surface is
plain. But major element that lends majesty to the structure is a double storeyed
tapping bastion. Each corners having alternately rounded and angular flutes, it is
very much like the first storey of the Qutb Minar (Plate 77). It seems that the
architect had got the inspiration from the Qutb Minar.11 The rounded flutes of the
upper storey have small balconied alcoves. Two bands of white cross signs mark
the junction of two storeys of bastions of the southern gateway. At the soffit of
each arch, there is an umbrella like formation of stalactites (Plate 78). Some
stalactites painted in white on a red background are also there. The half domed
ceilings of the side recesses on the inner side also bear stalactites moulded in
stucco (Plate 79). Each bastion was crowned with a dome.12 At either end of the
façade, there was a slender pillar of the same shape as that of the bastion, still
extant in the northern gateway.

9 ASI Reports, VII, I.


10 Charles J. Rodgers, Revised List of the Objects of Archaeological Interest in Punjab, Lahore, 1891,
83.
11 Subhash Parihar, Land Transports, 170.
12 William Barr, Journal from a March from Delhi to Peshawar and Thence to Cabul. (repr. Delhi:
Munshiram Manoharlal Publishers Pvt. Ltd., 2003), 9.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 89

Figure 19 : Ground plan of the southern gateway of Gharaunda sarai


(Source : Subhash Parihar, Land Transports)

The central big arch has three window openings above it. There is one
recess on its either side on the ground level and an elegant balcony on four
corbelled brackets above it (Plate 80). On the ground floor, the passage is flanked
with a 3.7 m deep verandah, each of the three walls of which open into a room
(Figure 19). These rooms are of different size and shapes. One flight of steps on
either side goes to the upper storey. It comprises two sets each consisting of two
rooms and one long gallery. The third storey again is approached by two flights
of steps, which is more airy.13 It consists of as many as eight rooms of various
size and shapes, connected with each other. The balconies visible on the outer
and the inner facades are projected from this storey. The bastions of the northern
gateway have only rounded flutes and the small projected alcoves are
distributed on the second storey flutes in a different manner (Plate 81). Though
differing in such minor details, this northern gateway is very much similar to the
southern gateway. The upper storey is better preserved in this gateway. The
distance between the two gateways is 144.5 m.
A high battlemented wall enclosed the courtyard of the sarai with
bastions at its angles. This sarai was already in a dilapidated condition when
William Barr saw it on June 25, 1839 but he still found it extremely handsome.
From the remains of the corner bastions, he judged that in their pristine
condition these were adorned with open circular galleries covered by domes.14

13 Subhash Parihar, Land Transports, 170.


14 William Barr, op. cit., 14 15.
90 Medieval Monuments in India
Captain Leopold Von Orlich saw it four years later, on 30 January 1843. He notes
that best preserved parts of the sarai are the large handsome, turreted gates.15
The monument was demolished by the Britishers during the Mutiny of 1857 to
punish rebels. The bricks were sold for the railway track between 1880 to 1890.
At present the sarai is devoid of any inscription but Captain Mundy saw an
inscription on its gateways.16 In the List of the Objects of Antiquarian Interest in
Punjab and its Dependencies, the date of the erection of the sarai is given as
1048/1638 39.17 According to the inscription mentioned by Captain Mundy by
one Firoz Khan built this sarai during the Shah Jahan reign.18 Akbarnama also
mention a ‘sarai Karunda’ before the second battle of Panipat.19

7# 2 Sarai

Taraori is a small town situated 135 km north of Delhi, on the G.T. Road, in
Karnal district of Haryana. The site of the town happens to be one of the two
famous battlefields of India where the fate of country was decided. The town is
frequently mentioned in medieval chronicles and travel accounts. Charles J.
Rodgers, in his Revised List, mentions the existence of ‘royal buildings, sarai, high
walled garden, masonry tank and town hall’ at Taraori.20 At present only the
sarai, masonry tank and Badshahi Bridge have survived and the rest having fallen
prey to vandalism of the brick hungry people.
The battlement enclosure of the sarai measures 160 m square. An
octagonal bastion of 2.4 m sides strengthens each corner of the enclosure. The
gateways of the sarai pierce its northern and southern walls. Southern gateway is
a three storeyed structure, rising to a height of 13.0 m on the outer side and 11.4
m on the inner side. It covers a plinth area of 19.8 m by 11.4 m. The entrance of
the southern gateway is of arch within arch type (Plate 82). Both the arches have
cusped profile. The ceiling of the main gate is plain in design. This trend was
erected in the building of the reign of Shah Jahan and later. The passage is
flanked with 2 m deep verandah. The triple openings of each verandah are formed
by red sandstone double pillars.21
Each cusped opening is made of only two pieces of carved stone. Each
verandah leads into a room, measuring 4.1 m by 2.8 m, which is further connected
to a 3 m square room. On the inner side, one flight of steps on either side
approached the middle storey, which almost repeats the plan of the ground floor.

15 Leopold Von Orlich, Travels in India including Sind and the Punjab, I, (London, 1845, repr.
Delhi, 1985), 270.
16 Captain Mundy, Pen and Pencil Sketches, I, (London: John Murray, 1832), 105.
17 List of the Objects of Antiquarian Interest in Punjab and its Dependencies (Lahore, 1875), 38 39.
18 Karnal District Gazetteer, Lahore, 1919, p. 222; Captain Mundy, op. cit., 105.
19 Abul Fazl, Akbarnama, II, trans. H. Beveridge (repr, Delhi: Rare Books, 1972), 54.
20 Rodgers, Revised List, 58.
21 Subhash Parihar, “The Mughal Caravansarai at Taraori”, Journal of Pakistan Historical Society,
46 (I), Karachi, 1998. 19.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 91
Two flights of steps from here reach the third storey. It comprises two sets of two
rooms each, measuring 4.3 m by 2.9 m and 4.2 m by 3.0 m, joined by a corridor.
The corridor has three windows opening above the entrance of the gateways.
Originally, these windows were screened with brick lattices, a small portion of
which is still extant. Again, two sets of stairs give access to the top of the
gateways.22 The northern gateway is also in similar plan (Figure 20) (Plate 83).

Figure 20 : Ground plan of the northern gateway of the Taraori sarai

On façade, one balcony is projected from the third storey on either side of
the entrance. The balconies are supported with red sandstone brackets and
pillars (Plate 84). The rest of the façade is textured with sunken panels and the
whole crowned with battlements provided with loopholes. There is no tower on
the corners of the gateways. Due to the absence of the corner towers chamfering
of its angles as was usual in the gateways of the Mughal sarais built along the
Agra Lahore route. Painted decoration can still be seen on the soffit of the larger
entrance arch of the southern gateway (Plate 85). A flower plant in a pot is the
main motif. On the soffits of the middle storey recesses, there is stalactite like
decoration.
The inner façade of each gateway is relieved with three storeys of recesses
and five storeys of sunken panels. The courtyard of the sarai is encircled with 32
rooms on each side. Each room measures 3.2 m squares and is fronted with a 2.4
m deep verandah. These rooms were meant for travellers. In the middle of the
eastern and western sides, there is a large room; 4.8 m square having a 2.4 m

22 Subhash Parihar, Land Transports, 178.


92 Medieval Monuments in India
deep, semi octagonal recess in side walls and a 0.9 m deep rectangular recess in
the back wall. One flight of steps on either side of the façade of the larger rooms
leads to the terrace. The octagonal room has a similar room on the upper storey
also, which is surmounted by an octagonal chhatrī of 2.1 m side (Plate 86). The
chhatrī has cusped opening, stone brackets and eaves.
The mosque of the sarai is in the south western side and now
accommodates a Gurudwara (Plate 87). The wall portion of the mosque,
measures 4.1m by 3.4 m, is covered with a domical ceiling. The nave and aisles
are fronted with a 2.4 m deep verandah, entered through three arches piercing the
façade of the mosque.23 On the sanctuary hall a hemi spherical dome
surmounted with an inverted lotus moulding and either side of the bays are flat
ceilings. In the central hall there is a mihrab recessing behind the qibla wall. All
the rooms of the gateways, those around the courtyard of the sarai and the
verandah of the mosque have almost flat ceilings and the arches used for their
entrances are also almost flat. During the course of my field work, I have noticed
the presence of verandah preceding the nave and aisles in other mosque at Abdul
Whahb mosque at Sadhora, built during the reign of Aurangzeb, in the year
1669 70 AD. This tendency is notable only after the first half of the 17th century.
According to William Barr who visited the sarai more than one and a half
century ago, a deep ditch encircled the sarai, than only partially filled with
water.24 At present, the sarai enclosure is densely inhabited the families who
migrated to these parts during the partition of India in 1947. The settlement was
named Katju Nagar on 30 July 1955 as is inscribed on a stone fixed on the
southern gateway of the sarai. The local tradition has it that Azam Shah, the third
son of Aurangzeb was born in this town when his mother, Dilras Banu Begam,
was on her way to Lahore and that it was at this occasion that Aurangzeb
rechristened Taraori with its new name Azamabad and built the sarai and other
monuments to commemorate the happy event.25 On the other hand, there is
evidence, which puts a question mark before the veracity of the tradition. Azam
Shah was born on 8 July 1653.26 Some architectural details like the presence of a
verandah preceding the nave and aisles in the mosque, the use of almost flat
entrance arches and ceiling of rooms and the verandah of the mosque indicate the
erection of the sarai during the second half of the 17th century.27

23 Subhash Parihar, JPHS, 20.


24 William Barr, op. cit., 12.
25 Rodgers, Revised List, 58.
26 Shah Jahan Nama of Inayat Khan, ed. E. E. Begley & Z. A. Desai (Delhi, 1991), 483; William
Irvine gives the date of birth of Azam Shah as 9 July 1653; Niccolao Mannucci, Storie do
Mogor. trans., William Irvins, I1, (Calcutta: M.K. Mukherjee at temple Press, 1965), 52.
27 Subhash Parihar, Land Transport, 183.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 93
># 2 Sarai

This sarai is situated to the north of the town; adjoining the tomb of Shaikh
Chehli. Probably this is the sarai referred to by Rehim Ali as Sarai Hajjam and by
A.K.M. Farooque as sarai Hajan.28 Unlike other Mughal sarai of the region, it is
asymmetrical on plan.
The measurement of the inner side sarai is 323’ by 291’. Thanesar sarai has
only one gate in the eastern side. The breadth of the main gateway is 11’.5” but
on the backside wall arch’s breadth is 16’.4” (Plate 88). It has no room on
southern side due to the tomb of Shaikh Chehli. The rooms on the other sides are
not of uniform size. Each room on the western side measures 3.7 by 3.3 m,
fronted with a 1.8 m deep verandah, but those on the north side measure 3.3 m
square. The former rooms are covered with pointed barrel vaults whereas the
later with domical vaults. The larger corner room, extant in the northwest corner,
measures 4.3 by 4.1 m having 1.1 m deep recesses in sidewalls and a 0.8 m deep
recess in the back wall.29

Figure 21 : Ground plan of Thanesar Sarai


(Source: Subhash Parihar, Land Transport)

28 Abdul Kadir Khan, Maulawi, Memorandum of the Route between Delhi and Cabul (AD 1797), 15
28; Farooque, A.K.M., op. cit., 217.
29 Subhash Parihar, Land Transport, 186.
94 Medieval Monuments in India
Each side of the sarai has 10 aiwan and every aiwan has 10’.9” breadth
(Plate 89). This sarai may be of double storey. The structure has no inscription to
tell us the date of its construction. But, most probably, it was built as part of the
tomb madrasa complex, about the middle of the 17th century. Now ASI has been
made Chahar Bagh pattern garden in the sarai.

?# % Sarai

It is the oldest monument situated in the middle of the town. Both of its gateway
and parts of the enclosing wall are extant now and are in private use. Although
the exact shape of the sarai cannot be ascertained due to later alterations and
accretions but certainly it was not a rectangular structure like other Mughal sarai
of the region. One gateway is in the middle of the northern and southern walls
each (Figure 3).
The southern gateway is 12.4 m broad and projected 5.2 m beyond the
wall (Plate 90). A wooden gate is affixed of each gateway (northern and
southern gateway) for the security of the travellers, which stayed here at night. It
soars to a height to 10 m on outside and 8 m on the inner side. The passage, 4.2 m
broad, has a 2.7 m deep verandah on its either side. One flight of steps in the
western wall of the passage and the other on the inner side of the gateway give
access to the second storey which comprises a verandah of the same size as that
on the ground floor and a small room measuring 2.0 by 1.8 m. One flight of stairs
from outside this storey leads to the top terrace.30 The corner bastions of the
enclosure are circular (Plate 91) whereas those in the middle of the western wall
are semi octagonal. The other gateway is also similar in design (Plate 92).

Figure 22 : Ground plan of the southern gateway of the Shahabad sarai

30 Ibid. 190.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 95
Each room for common travellers measures 3.4 by 3.2 m having a half
domed, 2.3 m deep porch in front. Two of the corner rooms of the sarai are also
extant. Each measures 3.2 m square and has a deep recess in front and back
walls. An opening in the back recess leads to an octagonal chamber of 1.2 m side.
The medieval route passes through the sarai.
The sarai as it exists today is in a greatly altered condition. It does not have
any particular stylistic feature to help fix its chronology. All that can be said
about the date of its erection is that it had been erected before 1626, the date
when it was occupied by the treasure carriers of Mahabat Khan. The sarai must
also have burnt of the attack of Banda Bahadur who fell upon Shahabad about
the end of the year 1709 or beginning of the next one.31

) < '

/# 6 ' arai= '

The Bal Mukand Das sarai is a well known monument of Narnaul. Bal Mukand
was the diwan of Narnaul during the reign of Shah Jahan. The author of Ma’asir
ul Umara32 says that Rai Mukand Das was at the beginning of his career an
ordinary servant of Asif Jaha, but being ‘a man of good sense and courage as
well as integrity’, he rose in time to be the governor of Narnaul. He was very
generous and his raiyats were always much pleased with him.33
It is a spacious building in proximity of Chhatta of Rai Mukand Das and
northern side of the town (Plate 93). This sarai is also single gateway in the
eastern side. It is made of red brunt bricks and plastered over it. It was
constructed by Rai Mukand Das34 under the supervision of Mehta Puran Mal and
Hari Das in 1041 AH./1631 32 AD for providing facilities to the caravans through
Narnaul. Being a strong fort like construction, it was used as their headquarters
by the ‘rebels’ in 1857.35 On the northern sidewall of this gateway there is affixed
an inscription (Plate 94). Translation of this inscription36 is as under:

“During the reign of the victorious father Shahab ud din Muhammad, the second
Lord of the happy conjunction, Shah Jahan, the victorious king; the Rae of Raes,
Rae Mukand Das gave orders to build this magnificent caravansarai. It was

31 Khushwant Singh, A History of the Shikhs, I, Oxford University Press (repr. Delhi, 1978), 105.
32 Ma’asir ul Umara, Asiatic Society of Bengal, edition, II, 237 238.
33 G. Yazdani, Narnaul and its Buildings, Journal and Proceeding of Asiatic Society of Bengal, III,
Calcutta, 1908, 583.
34 Z. A. Desai, Nobility Under the great Mughals (New Delhi: Sandeep Prakashan, 2003), 151 52.
35 K. C. Yadav, ‘Freak with the Past: A Case for Preserving Precious Heritage of Haryana’
Journal of Haryana Studies, Kurukshetra, 1992, 2.
36 G. Yazdani, op. cit., 583; Annual Report of Indian Epigraphy (1973 74), New Delhi, 1986, 152;
Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions in The Punjab, Haryana and Himachal Pradesh (New Delhi:
Inter India Publications, 1985), 50.
96 Medieval Monuments in India
completed under the superintendence of Mehtapur Mal (?) and Har Das in A.H:
11 **”.

The structure at the corner of the sarai is circular in shape, which is still
intact is double storey. This is south eastern corner of the sarai. The gateway is
extant and rest of the sarai was destroyed by the crumbling hand/district
administration for the development of new market. The gateway has attractive
features; it has a cusped (engrailed) archway. Both sides of the gateway, six
alcoves (three in each side) or arched space sunk into the wall for ornamentation
of the gateway. Two alcoves, one in each side, with latticed or perforated screen
of stone were used on windows. For the safety of the caravans there is a wooden
doorway on which iron rode is fixed. This gateway has a stalactite ceiling. On the
western side of the gateway there are flights of staircases, which are closed with
wooden gate for security purpose.

0# Sarai

This sarai is situated at the Saraikhera village, 4 km west of Taoru.37 It is of single


storey. It was constructed with stone masonary during the reign of Aurangzeb,
in the year 1697. This Mughal sarai is rectangular enclosure with a high
battlemented curtain wall. The gateway of the sarai is in the eastern side (Plate
95). Along the inner side of the enclosing wall are the rooms for travellers. On the
spandrels of the main gateway of the sarai an inscription38 is affixed on white
marble stone (Plate 96). The translation of the inscription is as under:

“It was constructed during the reign of emperor Mohiudin Mohammad


Aurengzib Alamgir Gazi Beg Mohammad Laskari son of Khan Firoz, Whose
name will be remembered forever in Mewat during the year 1107 H. (1697 A.D.).
This sarai was situated at Laskarabad.”

The entrance of the sarai is of an arch within arch type. Both the arches
have cusped profile, in vogue in the buildings erected during the Mughal period.
The passage is flanked with a deep verandah. Sandstone pillars have been
decorated form the triple openings of each verandah. Each cusped opening is
made of only two pieces of stone.39 Each verandah leads into a room. On the inner
side, a flight of steps on either side approaches the upper storey. It comprises
two sets of two rooms, joined by a corridor. The corridor has a window.
Originally, this window was screened with brick lattices, a small portion of

37 Its original name was Laskarabad but local inhabitant called it Saraikhera village due to this
sarai.
38 The inscription is got translated by Dr. Nasim Aktar, Curator, National Museum, New Delhi.
39 It has come across only one other specimen of a Mughal Sarai in the whole of the Haryana,
the gateway of which is partially built of stone. It is the Mughal Sarai at Taraori.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 97
which is still extant. The rest of the façade is textured with sunken panels and the
whole crowned with battlements provided with loopholes.
Painted decoration can still be seen on the entrance of the sarais’s eastern
gateway. Outer wall of the north eastern side is decorated with Jharokha40 design
or cradle balcony set above the main gateway. The balcony consists of a
rectangular cradle, cantilevered out and surmounted by a bangaladar. The
emphasis is given to this balcony by decorating it with painted arabesque
designs, which indicates that it was probably the sarai where the master rested
during a hot summer. The courtyard of the sarai is encircled with rooms on each
side. Each room has square and a deep verandah. These rooms were meant for
travellers. In the southern sides, there are larger rooms for the royal families and
official (Plate 97). One flight of steps on either side of the façade of the larger
rooms leads to the terrace.
All the rooms around the courtyard of the sarai have almost flat ceilings and
the arches used for their entrances are equilateral arches. The rooms of the smaller
enclosure did not have verandah. This tendency is notable only after the first half of
the 17th century. Local people use these rooms for the storage of dried cowdung
cakes, which is used as fuel. There is a well out side the sarai. It provided water to
the sarai for travellers, for bathing, washing clothes and for cattles.
A mosque is situated in front of the sarai not to inner side as in the Taraori
sarai. The entrance through three cusped arches piercing arch within arch. The
prayer chamber is a single bay (Plate 98). Internally it is profusely ornamented
but of crude nature. To the western side of the mosque there is a mihrab. It is
covered with a vault ceiling (Ladao). There are four small octagonal towers above
the parapet on each corner. The decoration can still be seen on the soffit of the
entrance of the mosque. In front of the mosque parapet wall having a series of
indentations or embrasures (slits) known as merlons is also used for decoration.
A corbelled chhajja (eaves) shades the façade of the mosque, which does not have
verandah. It is a characteristic feature of Medieval Indian Architecture. At present
a local man uses this mosque for his cattle.

KOS MINARS

Kos minar is the second important monument on the medieval routes. The word
kos minar is formed of two words ‘kos’ and ‘minar’. The word kos is the corrupt
form of the Sanskrit word krosa, which measures little more than a mile.
Interestingly, there is a similar word in Persian, kurah. Some scholar believes that
the word kos comes from kura. But Sanskrit is definitely older than Persian.
Therefore, the former seems more plausible. In any case, the kos was the distance
measure in vague when these minars were built. The kos minars served the
purpose being served by the modern milestones on the roads.

40 The Jharokha was a balcony meant for appearances (darshan) of the emperor before his subject.
98 Medieval Monuments in India

Map 5 : Kos Minars in Haryana


(Not to scale)
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 99
Sher Shah Sur paid great attention to the development of roads during his
reign. They functioned as the arteries of the empire.41 Arif Qandhari explained
the purpose of the kos minars, ‘that traveling to and fro goes on day and night
and these minars guide them (travellers) from losing their way or getting off the
route.’42 Unfortunately, we have no minars built by this great king in our region.
What we get are Mughal kos minars.
The first Mughal Emperor Babur ordered to raise distance markers, not
strictly speaking kos minars, each ‘twelve yards high with a chardara on top’ at every
nine kos, all along the distance from Agra to Kabul.43 Akbar made some changes in
the system. He issued an order that at every kos of the way on the routes a minars
should be set up, and be adorned with deer horns so that those who had lost their
way might have a mark and that strength might be given to the fatigued.44
Jahangir also carried his father’s activities. In 1619, he ordered to a noble
to put up a pillar (kos minar) at every two kos, and well at every three kos,
between Agra and Lahore.45 Mercifully, a large number of these kos minars are
still extant mainly due to their care by local people.46
Kos minars are mainly brick structures covered with plaster.47 They generally
stand on a masonary platform, measuring approximately 21/ by 21/. A kos minar is a
solid structure with no stairs, or any other opening inside.48 Each minar soars from a
tapering octagonal base, which rises to nearly half of its total height 22/ to 33/.
Hence forward, it becomes a tapering circular pillar rounded at the top. The
octagonal base is separated from the circular portion by moulding, above which
runs a band of colour which could, however, be seen only on one minar now.49
Generally, the features of the kos minars commonly matched with one
another, however, sometimes these features were slightly different at different
places. The octagonal part of the minar is small rather than cylindrical portion.
Surprisingly, the distance between two kos minars is not always and everywhere
uniform. It varies from 2 miles 3 furlongs to 2 miles 5 furlongs.50 Catherine Asher
opines that the kos minars were, ordinarily, covered with information giving
distances and popular slogans.51 I have, however, not come across any such thing to

41 Abbas Khan Sarwani, Tharikh i Sher Shahi or Tuhfat i Akbar Shahi, trans., H.M. Elliot and
Johan Dowson, IV, 1964, 417.
42 Arif Qandhari, Tarikh i Akbari, trans. Tasneem Ahmad (Delhi: Pragati Publication, 1993), 180.
43 Babur, The Baburnama: Memoirs of Babur, Prince and Emperor, trans., Wheeler M. Thackston
(New York: Oxford University Press, 1996), 415.
44 Abul Fazl, Akbarnama, III, trans. H. Beveridge (repr. Delhi: Rare Books, 1973), 156.
45 Jahangir, The Tuzuk i Jahangiri, II, trans. Alexander Rodger and Henery Beveridge. (Delhi:
Munsiram Manoharlal, 1968), 100.
46 Leopold Von Orlich, op. cit., 270.
47 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 48.
48 R. Nath, History of Mughal Architecture, II (New Delhi: Abhinav Publications, 1985), 403.
49 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 48.
50 Indian Archaeology Annual Report, Archaeological Survey of India, Delhi, 1926 27, 4 5
51 Catherine B. Asher, The New Cambridge History of India: Architecture of Mughal India.
(Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), 111.
100 Medieval Monuments in India
substantiate this view. A minute of the minars has led me to believe that this practice
Asher refers to was not followed everywhere – at least in our region it was not there.
In our region, fortunately, 51 minars still exist on the Agra – Delhi Lahore
Route (Map 5) in their avatars, some partially repaired, some plastered and some
in badly wounded state. These minars are as follows:

KOS MINARS :
# # Minar’s
1. Kos Minar No. 27 Bhulwana Faridabad
2. Kos Minar No.26 Hodal Faridabad
3. Kos Minar No. 25 Banchari 1 Faridabad
4. Kos Minar No. 24 Banchari 2 Faridabad
5. Kos Minar No. 23 Khataila Faridabad
6. Kos Minar No. 22 Aurangabad Faridabad
7. Kos Minar No. 21 Khera Sarai Faridabad
8. Kos Minar No. 20 Khusropur Faridabad
9. Kos Minar No. 19 Palwal Faridabad
10. Kos Minar No. 18 Alanpur Gadhpuri Faridabad
11. Kos Minar No. 17 Miranpur Faridabad
12. Kos Minar No. 16 Gudhpuri Faridabad
13. Kos Minar No. 15 Sikri Faridabad
14. Kos Minar No. 11 Mawai (Sec. 29) Faridabad
15. Kos Minar No. 10 Khawaja Faridabad
16. Mughal Kos Minar Akbar Pur Barota, Sonepat
17. Mughal Kos Minar Jagdish Pur Sonepat
18 Mughal Kos Minar Baiyanpur Sonepat
19. Kos Minar Sonepat Sonepat
20. Mughal Kos Minar Jawahari Sonepat
21. Mughal Kos Minar Rajpura Sonepat
22. Mughal Kos Minar Ganaur Sonepat
23. Mughal Kos Minar Panchi Gujran Sonepat
24. Kos Minar Kiwana Panipat
25. Kos Minar Manana Panipat
26 Kos Minar Jatipur Panipat
27 Kos Minar Siwah (Sewali) Panipat
28 Two Kos Minar (I) Panipat Panipat
29 Kos Minar (II) Taraf Unsar Panipat
30 Kos Minar Kohand Karnal
31 Kos Minar Gharonda (South) Karnal
32 Kos Minar Gharonda (North) Karnal
33 Kos Minar Kutail Karnal
34 Kos Minar Daha Karnal
35 Kos Minar Namaste Chowk Karnal
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 101
36 Kos Minar Karnal City Karnal
37 Kos Minar Bhaini Kalan Karnal
38 Kos Minar Taraori (South) Karnal
39 Kos Minar Taraori (North) Karnal
40 Kos Minar Amin Kurukshetra
41 Kos Minar Fatuhpur Kurukshetra
42 Kos Minar Thanesar Kurukshetra
43 Kos Minar Kaithla Khurd Kurukshetra
44 Kos Minar Bhiwani Khera Kurukshetra
45 Kos Minar Adhor/Adhaun Kurukshetra
46 Kos Minar Sarai Sukhi Kurukshetra
47 Kos Minar Zainpura Kurukshetra
48 Kos Minar Mohari Kurukshetra
49 Kos Minar Machhaunda Ambala
50 Kos Minar Kanwala Ambala
51 Kos Minar Ambala Ambala

All these kos minars are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India,
Chandigarh Circle except Kaithla Khurd, Machhaunda and Kanwala. A district
wise description of the kos minars are given below:

( %

*# 6 ' Kos Minar

It is the first kos minar in Haryana state on Agra Delhi Route (Plate 99) at village
of Bhulwana, 4 km before Hodal in its fields. It is 100 m east of National
Highway No 2 and 250 m west of the railway line. It stands on a square platform.
It’s damaged portion and square platform was repaired in 1988.52 Iron fencing
was erected around the kos minar in 1989.53 A stone inscription has been affixed
along with the fencing, which gives full details of the kos minar. At present its
condition is good. It is a protected Monument of the Archaeological Survey of
India.54

-# Kos Minar

It is situated inside the Raju Banga’s house (Plate 100), in the Punjabi Mohalla near
civil hospital. There is no way leading to this kos minar due to unauthorized
construction on all side. Its cylindrical portion’s height is more than its octagonal
portion. The maintenance work of this minar is not being done. During 1995 96,

52 IAR, 1989 90, 147.


53 IAR, 1989 90, 169.
54 Declared protected vide letter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919.
102 Medieval Monuments in India
its damaged portion was repaired and the plaster was water tightened.55 At
present its upper portion has been broken. It is presently not in good shape. It is
a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India,56 Chandigarh
circle. It is in dire need of maintenance.

7# 6 Kos Minar ))

This minar is situated 2 km south of the Banchari village and 3 km north of Hodal
(Plate 101). It is 300 m west of National Highway No 2 in the agriculture field. It
is presently not in good condition. It is surrounded with overgrown grass and a
tree stand near the platform of the minar, which is threat to the base of the
monument. It is in dire need of maintenance. It is a protected monument of the
Archaeological Survey of India.57

># 6 Kos Minar ))

This minar is situated 2.5 km north of the Banchari village and 700 m west of the
National Highway No 2 (Plate 102). At present the minar is in good state of
preservation. Iron fencing was erected around this kos minar. It rises on a square
platform measuring 21’ by 21’ and 1’ high. Its octagonal base is not tapering. It is
a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.58

?# Kos Minar

It is situated north east of the village and 50 m west of the National Highway No 2
(Plate 103). In 1988 89 ASI has done repaired the minar59 and 1989 90 Iron fencing
was erected around the minar60 but at present there is no Iron fencing. The minar
rises on a square platform measuring 21’ by 21’ and 1’ high and its condition is
good. It is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.61

/# ' % Kos Minar

The minar is situated 35 m west of the National Highway No 2 near Aurangabad


village and 13 km before Palwal (Plate 104). During 1988 89 ASI has repaired its

55 IAR, 1995 96, 171.


56 Declared protected vide letter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919.
57 Declared protected vide letter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919.
58 Declared protected vide letter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919.
59 IAR, 1988 89, 148
60 IAR, 1988 89, 169
61 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 103
broken portion.62 It rises on a square platform measuring 21’ by 21’ and 1’ high. In
1989 90 Iron fencing was erected around this minar.63 The minar is presently not in
good shape. It is in dilapidated condition. It requires proper protection and
conservation. It is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.64

0# ' , 1 Kos Minar

The name Khera Sarai as indicates the former existence of the sarai at this place. It
is situated 1 km north side of the Phulwari village and 30 m west of the National
Highway No 2 (Plate 105). The octagonal height of the minar is approximately 10’
and each side of octagonal measures 3’.9”. It rises on a square platform. It is
surrounded with overgrown grass, which is threat to the base of the monument.
In 1988 89 ASI has repaired its broken portion of this minar.65 In 1989 90 Iron
fencing was erected around this minar.66 It is in dire need of maintenance and
protection. It is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.67

@# ' ' Kos Minar

It is situated on the south of the Khusropur village and 30 m east of the National
Highway No 2 or 4 km before of Palwal town (Plate 106). It stands on a 21’ by 21’
square platform, on which grass is grown. In 1988 89 ASI has done its repair
work of the broken portion68 and 1989 1990 Iron fencing was erected around this
minar.69 The plaster of the octagonal portion is mostly chipped off and its lower
portion has been damaged. It is a protected monument of the ASI70 however it is
in a neglected condition. It is in dire need of maintenance.

3# Kos Minar

It is situated on the minar chowk in Palwal town (Plate 107). Due to this minar, the
Chowk is named Minar Chowk. It is surrounded with private wall on three sides.
In 1995 96 ASI has done its repair work, plaster to protect water,71 but
encroachment did not remove from here. There is no attention to the historicity
and safety of the minar. To see its condition, we cannot say that it is a protected
monument.72 It is in dire need of maintenance and preservation.

62 IAR, 1988 89, 147.


63 IAR, 1989 90, 169.
64 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 5.
65 IAR, 1988 89, 148.
66 IAR, 1989 90, 169.
67 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 13.
68 IAR, 1988 89, 148
69 IAR, 1989 90, 169.
70 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 14.
71 IAR, 1995 96, 171.
72 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 20.
104 Medieval Monuments in India
*.# ' Kos Minar

This minar is situated 300 m west from the National Highway No 2 and in the
middle of the Allapur village (Plate 108). As usual, the minar stands on a
platform but its platform is not visible. It has been encroached by a local man. He
made a hut around this minar for the shelter of his cattles. Lower portion of this
minar is in dilapidated condition. The plaster of the minar has been chipped off.
There is no reference of repair work in any Archaeological reports. However, it is
in the list of protected monument.73 Its merciful condition tells the reality.

**# ' Kos Minar

It is situated 150 m west of National Highway No 2 near Miranpur village (Plate


109). The square platform of the minar is missing here. Each side of the octagon,
measures 3’.9”. In 1988 89 ASI has been done its repair work.74 In 1991 92 Iron
fencing was erected around this minar75 but at present missing. It falls in the
agriculture land, which may be harmful for it. It is a protected monument of the
Archaeological Survey of India.76 It is in dire need of maintenance.

*-# ' ' Kos Minar

It is situated south of the village and 200 m west of the National Highway No 2
(Plate 110). In 1998 89 the Archaeological Survey of India has been done repair
work of the minar and square platform.77 In 1991 92 Iron fencing was erected
around it.78 It falls in the agriculture land, which is threat to the base of the
monument. The upper portion of the minar has been broken. In the centre, we
can see sign of the repair work, which was done in early. It does not match the
whole minar. It is a protected monument.79 It is in dire need of maintenance.

*7# Kos Minar

This minar is situated 1 km north of the Sikri village and 100 m west of the
National Highway 2 or 6 km before the Ballabhgarh town (Plate 111). It falls in
the agriculture land in a very dilapidated condition. There is no reference of any
repair work in annual report of the Archaeological Survey of India. Iron fencing
around the minar is messing. It is brick structure standing on an octagonal

73 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 3.


74 IAR, 1988 89, p. 148.
75 IAR, 1991 92, p. 173.
76 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 10.
77 IAR, 1988 89, 148.
78 IAR, 1991 92, 173
79 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 9.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 105
platform, covered with plaster. It sours from a tapering octagonal base, which is
separated from the upper circular portion by a moulding. The lower portion of
the minar has been broken down. It may be fall down at any time. It is
surrounded with overgrown grass and a pipal tree adjoining the minar, which is
threat to the monument. Despite it being a protected monument.80 There is no
sign of any conservation work. It requires immediate conservation and
preservation.
Mujessar Kos Minar is said to have been located in plot No. 113 14 A,
Sector – 24, where now stands the factory Voith, Porritts & Spencer (Asia) Ltd,
locally called Khambawali Factory. However, Inventory gives full detail and
picture of this minar, but at present there is no sign of any minar in this area. It
was a protected monument.81
Faridabad Kos Minar was referred to in the Annual Progress Report (1914).82
But, at present not traceable as the area has been densely industrialized. Probably
it is not extant now.

*># ! ( % Kos Minar

It is situated in the old Faridabad, on the main road of Sector 29 near market and
Patrol Pump (Plate 112). All kos minars of Haryana are made of bricks but only
this minar is made of rubbles and bricks. Local administration had removed the
encroachment near minar but the temple (converted portion of the minar) stands
in the same condition. As usual, the minar stand on a square platform, now
which is not visible. A tree stands near the foundation of it, which is threat to the
base of the structure. The Iron fencing of the minar is missing. It is in a good
condition. It is a protected monument of the ASI.83

*?# < Kos Minar

It is situated in the Sector 35, Ashoka Enclave Phase III, (Plate 113) in the centre
of the park and opposite H. No. 487. In 1987 88 ASI has been removed waist
material, repaired and plastered over it.84 At present, it stands on a big square
platform and covered with new plaster. But there is no Iron fencing around it. It
is in a good condition. It is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey
of India.85

80 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 21.
81 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 19.
82 APR (1914), 48.
83 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 18.
84 IAR, 1987 88, 186.
85 Declared protected vide latter No. 6798 dated 11.03.1919; Inventory, 15.
106 Medieval Monuments in India

There are eight kos minars in the Sonepat district, because the area of study work
is only Haryana, so that after the Faridabad, took attention in the Sonepat
district. These minars are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India,
Chandigarh Circle vide Notification No. PN. 10699 dated 08. 05. 1918. In this
series the minars are as under:

*/# % ' 6 Kos Minar

It is situated 1 km south of village and behind the Patrol Pump (Plate 114). It falls
150 m west of the road and 1 km eastern side of the railway line. There is no sign
of any repair work in the annual report of the Archaeological Survey of India. Its
square platform and Iron fencing are not visible. It stands in the agriculture land,
which is threat to the monument. The octagonal portion of this minar has been
broken down. It is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of
India.86 It requires immediate conservation and preservation.

*0# $ ' Kos Minar

It is situated in the Panchayati land of Jagdishpur village and 1 km east of the


railway track (Plate 115). Its square platform is not visible and its lower portion
has been broken. There is no plaster over it like others. This minar soars from a
tapering octagonal base, which is separated from the upper circular portion by a
moulding. The octagonal portion has cemented plaster, which does not match on
it. It is in very dilapidated condition. The wild plants and a tree are threat to the
monument. Despite it is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of
India.87 It requires immediate conservation and preservation.

*@# 6 + ' Kos Minar

It is situated in Baiyanpur village near 300 m north east of the railway gate (Plate
116). It falls in the agriculture field and it is surrounded with wild grass, which is
a threat to the monument. Its square platform and Iron fencing are not visible.
The lower portion of the minar is very dilapidated condition. The upper portion
plaster has been chipped off. Although there is no reference found about its
repair work. It is in the state of bad condition. It is a protected monument of the
Archaeological Survey of India.88 It requires immediate conservation and
preservation.

86 Declared protected vide letter no. 10699 dated 08.05.1918; Inventory, 81.
87 Declared protected vide letter no. 10699 dated 08.05.1918; Inventory, 84.
88 Declared protected vide letter no. 10699 dated 08.05.1918; Inventory, 82.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 107
*3# Kos Minar

It is situated near the Bus Stand, on the Sonepat Ganaur road (Plate 117). This
marg is to be called Padshahi Marg. The presence of the minars on this route
clearly illustrated that the original trade route was away from the present G.T.
road. It is in a neglected condition. The octagonal portion has been covered with
the road. Its historical importance has been destroyed by built a new building
adjoining it. In 2001, it was not in good condition when Dr. Sanjay Subhodh
visited this site.89 But at present its plaster has been chipped off. It is a protected
monument of the ASI.90 It requires immediate conservation and preservation.

-.# $ Kos Minar

It is situated 30 m east of the railway track and near the poultry farm of the
Jawahri village (Plate 118). It stands on Sonepat Ganaur road near railway gate
No 31. It stands on an octagonal platform like other minars. It is in good
condition. Recently the Archaeological Survey of India has done its conservation
work. It is a protected monument the ASI.91

-*# < ' Kos Minar

It is situated near the railway track near the Rajpura village and 1 km north of
Sandal Kalan Railway Station (Plate 119). It is a brick structure standing on a
square platform. The octagonal portion of the minar is almost covered with soil. It
soars from a tapering octagonal base, which is separated from the upper circular
portion by a moulding. It is in good state of preservation. It is a protected
monument the ASI.92

--# ' Kos Minar

It is situated south of the Ganaur village and 500 m east of the railway track in
the agriculture land (Plate 120). When visited first time in 2005 a Pipal and Neem
tree was growing at the base of the minar and the octagonal portion was in a
dilapidated condition. But when visited it second time in 2008, it was in a good
condition. It seems that recently the Archaeological Survey of India has
conserved and preserved it. It is a protected monument of ASI.93

89 Subhodh Sanjay, ‘Material Remains and Historical Seans: A Study in Medieval Archaeology’,
Proceeding of The Indian History Congress, 61 Session, Calcutta, 2001, 528.
90 Declared protected vide letter no. 10699 dated 08.05.1918; Inventory, 88.
91 Declared protected vide letter no. 10699 dated 08.05.1918; Inventory, 85.
92 Declared protected vide letter no. 10699 dated 08.05.1918; Inventory, 87.
93 Declared protected vide letter no. 10699 dated 08.05.1918; Inventory, 83.
108 Medieval Monuments in India
-7# '< Kos Minar

It is situated 1 km north east of the BST factory and 600 m east of the railway line
in the agriculture land near Larsauli (Plate 121). There is no evidence of any
repair work. Its square platform and Iron fencing are not visible. The lower
portion of the minar is in a dilapidated condition. It is a protected monument of
the Archaeological Survey of India.94

There are six kos minars extant in the Panipat district. These minars are protected
by Archaeological Survey of India, Chandigarh Circle vide notification no. PN,
1083 dated 01.12.1914.

-># Kos Minar

It is situated in the Nestle factory compound and 200 m east of railway line (Plate
122). The Nestle factory has been done unauthorized encroachment over the
National Historical monument.95 There is no way to go near the minar, although
it is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.96 There is
every possibility that with the passage of time it too would mingle with dust. The
ASI requires immediate action on this matter.

-?# Kos Minar

It is situated 700 m east of Chaudhary Devi Lal Collage and National Highway
No 1 near the Manana village (Plate 123). The upper portion of the minar is lying
near it. Despite it is a protected monument.97 It requires immediate conservation
and preservation.

-/# $ ' Kos Minar

It is situated 1 km east of the National Highway No 1 and in front of the choupar


in the Jatipur village (Plate 124). As usual, the minar stands on a platform but its
platform is not visible which is covered with soil. It is surrounded by the houses.
There is no sign of any repair work. It is a brick structure which has got plastered

94 Declared protected vide letter no. 10699 dated 08.05.1918; Inventory, 86.
95 The Nestle Factory management does not allow the author to go near the minar and to take
the photographs.
96 Declared protected vide letter no. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 70.
97 Archaeological Survey of India has given a photograph in the Inventory report and Dr.
Subhash Parihar has mentioned it in a good condition. But at present, there are only remains
of the minar. For detail of this minar see, Subhash Parihar, Land Transport, 166; Inventory, 71.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 109
over it. It soars from a tapering octagonal base, which is separated from upper
circular portion by a moulding. It is a protected monument the ASI.98

-0# Kos Minar

It is situated 1.5 km east of Siwah village and 1 km east from National Highway
No 1 (Plate 125). It falls in the Yamuna Action Plan project factory complex on
the Dadaula road. It stands on an octagonal platform and it is surrounded with
overgrown grass. The Iron fencing is not visible around it. It is a protected
monument ASI.99 Though, it is in a good condition.

-@# Kos Minar ))

The minar is situated in the open field of the Sector 25, part II (Plate 126). The
lower portion of this minar has been broken and some octagonal part covered
with the road. This minar is referred to Taraf Unsar. A distinguishing feature of
the minar is the presence of a row of sunken panels near the top of the octagonal
base. Some bricks from the base are missing. It is in a dilapidated condition. If
the ASI doesn’t proper care, it will be day mingle with the dust. Despite it is a
protected monument.100

-3# Kos Minar ))

It is situated on the tehsil camp near Fatehpuri Chowk and 500 m east of the
National Highway No 1 in the Shivalewali gali (Plate 127). This kos minar
referred to as Taraf Afghana. It is in a good condition. It has been unauthorizedly
converted into a temple. Despite it is also a protected monument of the ASI.101

There are ten kos minars intact in the Karnal district. These minars are protected
by Archaeological Survey of India, Chandigarh Circle.

7.# Kos Minar

It is located west side of the National Highway No 1 (Plate 128). In 1988 89 ASI
has done its repair work of the broken portion.102 In the same year, Iron fencing

98 Declared protected vide letter no. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 68.
99 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 77.
100 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 76.
101 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 75.
102 IAR, 1988 89, 148.
110 Medieval Monuments in India
was erected around the minar. Now the minar is in a good state of preservation. It
is a protected monument of the ASI.103

7*# Kos Minar ))

It is situated 2 km south of the Gharonda village and 50 m west of the National


Highway No 1 in the agriculture land (Plate 129), which is a threat to the
structure. As usual, the minar stands on a platform but its platform is not visible.
In 1979 80 ASI has done its repaired work of the octagonal platform with the
help of lime and bricks.104 Iron fencing was erected around the minar. It is in a
good state of preservation. It is protected monument of the ASI.105

7-# Kos Minar ))

It is situated 2.5 km north of Gharonda village and between the National


Highway No 1 and railway track, in the agriculture land (Plate 130). The
octagonal platform surrounded by Iron fencing. It is not in a good shape. Despite
it is a protected monument of ASI.106 It is surrounded with overgrown grass,
which is a threat to the base of the monument. It is in dire need of maintenance.

77# ' Kos Minar

It is situated 100 m eastern side of the National Highway No 1 and behind the
factory near the Kutail village (Plate 131). It is in bad shape and some brickwork
is naked at the bottom. As usual, the minar stands on a platform but its platform
is not visible and it is surrounded with overgrown grass near the foundation of
the minar, which is a threat to the base of the structure. There is no Iron fencing
around the minar. It is protected monument.107 It requires immediate
conservation and preservation.

7># Kos Minar

It is situated just western side of the National Highway No 1 (Plate 132). In 1988
89 ASI has been repaired its broken portion and plastered over it.108 It stands on
an octagonal platform, which is mostly covered with road. The Iron fencing was

103 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 44.
104 IAR, 1979 80, 137.
105 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 39.
106 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 38.
107 Declared protected vide letter No. 8516 dated 27.03.1919; Inventory, 45.
108 IAR, 1988 89, 148.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 111
erected around the minar. It is in a good state of preservation. It is a protected
monument of the ASI.109

7?# Kos Minar ))

The minar is situated on the Namste Chowk near Transport Nagar in Sector 4 and
100 m east of the National Highway No 1 (Plate 133). It stands on a platform,
which is surrounded by Iron fencing. In 1978 79 ASI has repaired its broken
portion with the help of lime and bricks.110 It is lying in a good condition on the
open field. It is a protected monument of the ASI.111

7/# Kos Minar ))

The minar is situated near the Gate No. 2 of National Dairy Research Institute
and middle of the town (Plate 134). As usual, the minar stands on a platform but
it is surrounded with overgrown grass near the foundation of the minar, which is
a threat to the base of the structure. In 1986 87 ASI has been repaired its broken
portion. Iron fencing was erected around the minar.112 It is in a good state of
preservation. During repair work its circular portion has been made pointed that
is not according to its architectural style. It is also a protected monument of the
ASI.113

70# 6 Kos Minar

It is situated 600 m north of the National Highway No 1, in the agriculture land,


near the Bhaini Kalan village (Plate 135). The minar stands on a platform but that
is not visible. It is surrounded with overgrown grass near the minar, which is a
threat to the base of the structure. Its upper portion has been broken and lower
octagonal portion is naked. It is a protected monument of the ASI.114 It requires
immediate conservation and preservation otherwise with the passage of time it
would be mingle with dust.

7@# 2 Kos Minar ))

It is situated just inside the grain market and on the southern side of the Nadana
road (Plate 136). As usual, the minar stands on a platform but it is surrounded
with overgrown grass near the foundation of the minar, which is a threat to the

109 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 36.
110 IAR, 1978 79, 133 34.
111 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 42.
112 IAR, 1986 87, 153.
113 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 43.
114 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 35.
112 Medieval Monuments in India
base of the structure. The Iron fencing was erected around the minar. There is no
sign of any damage. It is in a good state of preservation. The lower portion has
been repaired. It is a protected monument of the ASI.115

73# 2 Kos Minar ))

It is situated 2 km north west of the Taraori town on the Taraori Amin road in
the agriculture land near the Badshahi Pul (Mughal bridge) (Plate 137). The Iron
fencing was erected around the minar. It is in a good state of preservation. The
octagonal base is too highly tapering. The top circular portion of the minar attract
attention because this kind of feature does not appear any others minars. It is a
protected monument of the ASI.116

''

At present, nine kos minars are situated in the Kurukshetra district. All minars are
protected by Archaeological Survey of India, Chandigarh Circle except Kaithla
Khurd Kos Minar.

>.# Kos Minar

It is situated just western side of the road and 700 m south of the village (Plate
138). In 1993 94 ASI has repaired its broken portion117 and the Iron fencing was
erected around this minar. As usual, the minar stands on a 21’ by 21’ platform and
its octagonal portion’s height is 8’.11” but it is surrounded with overgrown grass
near the foundation of the minar, which is a threat to the base of the structure. It
is in a good state of preservation. Each side of the octagonal portion is 3’ 6”. Its
cylindrical part is not high so the over all appearance is stout. It is a protected
monument of the ASI.118

>*# ( ' ' Kos Minar

It is situated on the Kurukshetra Amin road in the Fatuhpur village and 500 m
north west of the Gurudwara (Plate 139). It falls in the agriculture land, which is
a threat to the base of the structure. As usual, the minar stands on a platform but
its platform is not visible. It is surrounded with wild grass and pipal tree stands
near the foundation of the minar that may be harmful for the minar. There is no
Iron fencing around the minar. Some parts of the minar have been broken.

115 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 47.
116 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 46.
117 IAR, 1993 94, 170.
118 Declared protected vide letter no. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 51.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 113
Despite it is a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.119 It is
in dire need of maintenance.

>-# 2 Kos Minar

It is situated adjoining Singla Rice Mill in Thanesar and 200 m east of the
Salarpur road (Plate 140). It is brick structure standing on a square platform
covered with plaster. Some parts of the plaster are chipped off. In 1993 94 ASI
has repaired its broken portion with the help of lime and bricks.120 It falls in the
open field and its lower octagonal portion is in a dilapidated condition. A Pipal
tree stands in the base of the minar, which is a threat to the minar. Despite it is a
protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.121 It requires
immediate conservation and preservation.

>7# ' Kos Minar

It is situated 400 m west of the canal in the Kaithla Khurd village (Plate 141). It is
unprotected monument and located in the agriculture field. Its height is almost
30’ and octagonal portion’s height is 12’. Each side of the octagonal portion is
3’5”. Its platform is not visible. The lower portion of the minar has damaged at
large scale. It was made in the kneaded mud (mortar), bricks and plastered over
it, which is different from others. It stands on a separate route from the Sher Shah
Suri Marg.

>># 6 Kos Minar

It is situated 1 km north of the old Mughal Bridge in the Bhiwani Khera village
(Plate 142). The minar stands on an octagonal platform and the Iron fencing was
erected around this minar. It is in a good state of preservation. It is a protected
monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.122

>?# Kos Minar

It is situated in the Adhor village and 20 m west of the Adhaun Sarai Sukhi marg
in the agriculture land (Plate 143), which is a threat to the base of the structure. It
stands on a platform which is covered with Iron fencing. It is made of bricks and
plastered over it. At present, the minar is in a good state of preservation. It is
protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India.123

119 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 55.
120 IAR, 1993 94, 170.
121 Declared protected vide letter no. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 58.
122 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 54.
123 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 53.
114 Medieval Monuments in India
>/# Sarai ' Kos Minar

The minar is situated 100 m west of the Dhirpur railway station in the Sarai Sukhi
village (Plate 144). It falls in the agriculture land, which is a threat to the minar. It is in
much crumbled condition. The Iron fencing was erected around this minar. Its plaster
is pleaded off from some parts. It is a protected monument of the Archaeological
Survey of India.124 It requires immediate conservation and preservation.

>0# B ' Kos Minar

It is situated in the Zainpur village and 300 m east of the National Highway No 1
(Plate 145). It is not in a good shape. It stands on a square platform, made of bricks
and plastered over it. Its plaster has chipped off. Some bricks have missing from the
base. It soars from a tapering octagonal base, which is separated from the upper
circular portion by a moulding. It is a protected monument of the Archaeological
Survey of India.125 It requires immediate conservation and preservation.

>@# Kos Minar

It is situated 400 m west of the National Highway No 1 and 250 m east of the
railway line (Plate 146). It stands 1 km west of the Mohri village. As usual, the
minar stands on a platform, which is not visible. The Iron fencing was erected
around this minar. Its condition is not good. Some parts of the plaster have been
chipped off. Its shape is of stout. It is a protected monument of the
Archaeological Survey of India.126 It is in dire need of maintenance.

>3# ' Kos Minar

It is situated 2 km west of the Machhaunda village on the 200 m east of the Ugara
road (Plate 147). It falls in the agriculture land, which is a threat to the base of the
minar. It is an unprotected monument. Its base has partly crumbled and needs
immediate repairs. A Pipal tree has grown at its base, which may be fall down at
any time.

?.# Kos Minar


It is situated west of the Kanwala village and 200 m south of the Manethi road
(Plate 148). At present only some lower portion of the minar is extant here. The
upper circular portion is lying near the minar. Though, it is an unprotected

124 Declared protected vide letter No. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 62.
125 Declared protected vide letter no. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 64.
126 Declared protected vide letter no. 1083 dated 01.12.1914; Inventory, 56.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 115
monument. It requires immediate conservation and preservation. There is every
possibility that with the passage of time it would be mingle with dust.

?*# % Kos Minar

It is the last kos minar of Haryana state (Plate 149). It is situated outside the
railway station. It is situated in the bazaar near Shiv Mandir on the Dev Samaj
Collage road. It has a unique feature. Its octagonal shape is missing here and its
shape is totally circular. The local people unauthorizedly covered this minar. It is
a protected monument of the Archaeological Survey of India. vide letter No.
14519 dated 29.07.1918.127
These kos minars are very important monuments but people destroyed it.
Some of them are laying in a neglected condition. These are our national
heritage. Local people unauthorised took place encroachment without
knowledge of its historical value.

Map 6 : Bridges in Haryana (Not to scale)

127 Declared protected vide letter No. 14519 dated 29.07.1918; Inventory, 1.
116 Medieval Monuments in India
6

A plain, with no major rivers or streams, our region is not a place where bridges
should abound. In consequence, only a few bridges which are in existence (Map
6). They are as follows:

*# < Sarai 6 =( %

This bridge is constructed over Budhiawala Nala,128 at a distance of 1 km to the


east of the National Highway No 2 on the Delhi – Agra Route (Plate 150). It is a
protected monument and called Mughal Bridge.129 It is made of rubble. It is 25 m
long and 4.3 m broad and consists of three four centred arches, which are
structurally sound. The span of each arch is 4.3 m, which is supported on piers of
a half of a bit smaller width. The central arch is slightly higher than those on the
sides. The piers have no cutwaters. On each end of the north and south piers of
the central arch stands a kos minar like tower, toped with a fluted dome. It had
constructed on the 6 May 1676. Beam lack of care and maintenance, the bridge is
in poor condition.

-# '% 6 =

The bridge is built on the Shaikhnai [Shaikhu’s Canal], in Karnal which,


according to Badaoni, was dug by Mulla Nuruddin Muhammad i Tarkhan
during the reign of Akbar.130 (Plate 151). The bridge, 32.6 m long, is carried on
three arches, each 6.2 m broad. Each pier is 4.9 m broad. The passageway over
the bridge is 8.3 m broad and total breadth including parapet is 9.7 m. Each end
of the bridge is marked with an octagonal tower of 0.55 m side, topped with a
dome. Father Monserrate refers to this bridge in his Commentary.131 Though
under the care of the Archaeology and Museum Department, Haryana, it is not
being looked after properly and is in bad condition.

128 Y.D. Sharma names the bridge as “Budhiawala Bridge” and records a tradition for the name.
According to this tradition, “in earlier days an old woman (budhia) resided near it, while her
sons were posted under it. She would beguile the travellers and drop an appropriate hint to
her sons regarding the strength of the travellers. The sons would then overpower them and
rob them of their valuables.” Y.D. Sharma, Delhi: And its Neighbourhood, (New Delhi:
Archaeological Survey of India, 2001) 105.
129 Declared protected vide latter no. 32223 dated 22.10.1929; Inventory, 16.
130 Al Badaoni, Muntakhabu T Tawarikh, III, trans. T. Wolseley Haig, 1899 (repr. Delhi: Idarah
I Adabiyat I Delhi, 1973), 174.
131 S. J. Monserrate, The commentary of Father Monserrate, trans., J. S. Hoyland, anno. S. N.
Banerjee (Oxford, 1922; repr., Jalandhar: Asian Publishers, 1993), 98.
Sarais, Kos minars and Bridges 117
7# 2 6

It is situated 2 km north of Taraori town on the Taraori Amin Road (Plate 152). It
was made in the Sher Shah’s time. It is a stone bridge of five arches, which are
structurally sound. The total length of the bridge is 116.7 feet and inner breadth
is 34.3 feet and outer breadth is 39 feet. A temple is situated in the eastern side of
the bridge. It is in bad shape now.

># 2 6

This bridge is to the north of the Shaikh Chehli tomb in the O. P. Jindal Park132
(Plate 153). The total length of the bridge is 22.5 m. The roadway was carried on
four arches, each 3.5 m broad. Each of the piers having circular cutwaters is 2.2 m
broad. A 5.7 m broad passage passed over it. The rivulet that flowed under its
arches, the Saraswati, could not have been very broad in the period when it was
built. It is in good condition, conserved and preserved well by the concerned
authority.

132 William Lloyed saw two bridges in Thanesar, second one, said to have been built by
Aurangzeb, was already broken. See Lloyd, W., & A. Gerard. A Narrative of a Journey from
Caunpoor to the Boorendu Pass in the Himalaya Mountains via Gwaliar, Agra, Delhi and Sirhind. I,
(London: Madden & Co., 1840), 58.
118 Medieval Monuments in India
)/

( = = Baradaris

The forts occupy an important part in the history of India. They were, mainly,
used for defence purposes. The king’s residence and other important
establishments were located in the forts for security reasons. The science of
building forts and fortifications in early times was so advanced that the Shilpa
Sastras mention at least 19 varieties of forts with different defensive schemes, like
mountain forts, water forts, desert forts, forest forts and earth forts.1 Kautilya (4th
century BC) has written at length about protective fortifications. He classified
forts according to the preferred types of sites of their locations.
The forts, however, assumed greater importance in the medieval times.
The three consistent components of medieval forts were walls, towers and gates.
Generally, the outer walls of the forts were built of bricks, red sand stone or of
mud. It usually had two gates, one at the front and the outer at the rear. The
doorframes of the gates were strong and made of thick wood backed by iron
strips with sharp spikes facing outwards to protect them from charge by
elephants. Their walls were usually thick and contained battlements and
stringcourses, besides having towers on all four corners mounted with cannon. A
large number of forts and their associate structures existed in Haryana but now
only the following ones are available (Map 7).

( = = Baradaris +

'
1. Firoz Shah Fort Hisar
2. Bahadur Nahar Fort Kotla (Mewat)
3. Barsi Gate Hansi

1 A.P. Singh, Forts and Fortification in India. (Delhi: Agam Kala Prakashan, 1987), 64 65.
120 Medieval Monuments in India
4. Ni’mat Ullah Gate Hansi
5. Tripolia Gate Narnaul
6. Gujari Mahal Hisar
7. Jal Mahal Narnaul
8. Bal Mukand Das ka Chhatta Narnaul
9. Rang Mahal Buria
10. Tosham Baradari Tosham
11. Fort Baradari Hansi
12. Mughal Garden Pinjore

Map 7 : Forts, Gates, Baradaris, Gardens, etc in Haryana (Not to scale)


Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 121
*# ( 5 ( =

The Fort is situated on the opposite to the present City Bus Stand. Now much of
the fort has been fallen. The construction work of the proposed fort was started
in the last quarter of the year 1354 under the personal supervision of Sultan Firoz
Shah himself who stayed here for a sufficient time.2 The boundary wall of Hisar
Firoza was built of stones. Inside the fort, having a complex of different
buildings, was built. Only the north western area of the fort with a gateway, the
Lat ki Masjid and two of the courtyards can be seen.3 The Fort has originally at
least three levels still exist in good state of preservation. The lower level had
arcades with massive rubble stone piers. The middle level has masonry arcades
supported by columns with monolithic shafts. The third level of the fort is now
lost and only the bases of a few columns shafts remain. The lower level consists
of numerous halls, chambers and narrow dark corridors. The location of the
main gate indicates that the main approach to the fort was from the south west
side.
The entrance to the fort is through the main gate (Plate 154), which is built
in the western wall and leads in to the south court. This is the only gateway of
the fort, which is still standing. The gateway has an arched opening leading to a
passage with guardrooms on either side. The gate is built of rubble stone and a
vaulted roof. The walls of the gate are battered. There are crenellations on the
western side. A semi circular supporting arch on the eastern facade has been
built in recent times, which remains in its original form. The passage through the
gate now slopes upwards to reach the present level.
The south courtyard is bounded on the western side by the fortified wall
and on the eastern side by the rear wall of the Lat ki Masjid (Figure 23). The
defense wall is battered from outside and upper parts have been reconstructed.
The arcade wall of the northern side has a doorway, apparently opening to a
corridor. These arcades are a common feature of the sultanate courtyards and
this type of arcade is also found in Firoz Shah Kotla in Delhi.4
The western fortified wall continues north of the south court with a semi
octagonal tower, passages and rooms on level 2. The tower has a roofed
chamber. An arched opening in the center of each wall gives access to a passage
running around the chamber and connected to the north. To the north of this
chamber, there is also a vaulted hall connected with chamber and passage.
Outside wall of the western side has an opening, which let in a small amount of
light.5

2 The Tribune, 1 November 1986.


3 Cunningham, ASI Report, XXIII, 1883 84, 24 25; K. V. Soundara Rajan, Islam Builds in India:
Cultural Study in Islamic Architecture. (Delhi: Agam Kala Prakashan, 1983), 80.
4 J. A. Page, A Memoir on Kotla Firoz Shah, Delhi, Memoirs of the Archaeological Survey of
India, LII, 1937, 6 7.
5 Mehrdad Shokoohy and Natalie H. Shokoohy, op. cit., 22.
122 Medieval Monuments in India
A passage goes to the eastern court, to the north of the Lat ki Masjid, from
the south court. There is a wide hall with arches of red sandstone. It is, however,
possible that this hall is of a later origin than the rest of the fort.6 The hall is at
level 2 stands on a platform with no opening at level 1. The eastern courtyard has
the route of the sultan to the mosque would have passed through this courtyard.
The north east courtyard is now outside the perimeter wall of the fort complex.
The remains of the fort are quite visible in the North Courtyard. These
structures include part of the outer shell of two great halls on the northern side of
a central courtyard (Plate 155). There is a row of holes half way up the inside the
northern wall, which must have been for brackets supporting a timber, floor on
Level 2. These holes are the only evidence of the use of timber in the structure of
the fort buildings# The hall at the palace is more similar to Mughal audience hall.
Little has survived from other palace of the Tughlaq period. It is the only
surviving examples of their kind.
On the western and southern side of the courtyard are arcaded halls.
There are number of vaulted chambers behind these halls. The rectangular tower
projecting from the western wall of this complex has vaulted hall with two aisles
and three bays open to the central courtyard. The hall has a niche in the center of
the western wall. Behind it, there are three inter connected lobbies. Below the
arcaded hall on level 1, there is a vaulted hall of similar dimensions (Plate 156)
but instead of row double columns on the courtyards side it has heavy piers.
There are again two chambers but these open only into the hall and do not
connect with each other.
To the south of the courtyard on level 2 is the largest arcaded hall. It is in
six bays and four aisles, with four of the bays opening to the central courtyard. It
leads to a smaller vaulted hall with six columns and rooms. Another colonnaded
hall existed to the eastern side of these chambers. At the southern side that
opened to two long and narrow chambers connected with two chambers on the
eastern side which in turn opened to a hall which was located between the east
and the northwest courts. At the east of the northern courtyard are a number of
carved ancient pillars (Plate 157). It gives an idea of the ancient architectural
marvels of Haryana. Such were, however, the aesthetic appeal of these pillars
that even they have been re used them in this palace.
The present roof of the fort has been consolidated and cemented over but
many column shafts are scattered. Indication that there was a forth storey and
some pavilions, of which some trace now remains. In Hisar, the sense of lightless
is given of the buildings by Level 1 being constructed with massive piers
supporting the arches and vaults; Level 2 having stone columns of a much lighter
profile supporting the masonry arches and the third Level having stone columns
supporting, a ceiling with a high light by stone lintels and roof slabs.’

6 The arches correspond with style of the Mughal period.


Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 123

Figure 23 : Ground plan of the Firoz Shah fort, Hisar


(Source : K. V. Soundara Rajan, Islam Builds in India)

The general appearance of this historical fort of Hisar can be compared


with the madrasa of Firoz Shah at Haus i Khass7 built on similar principals of
design. This building was constructed in the first years of Firoz Shah‘s rule and
earlier than the fort of Hisar. The Fort of Firoz Shah in his capital Firozabad
might also have followed the same principal of design but as we have already
noted little has survived from these buildings, although the ruins of the ground
level show that this level the fort was constructed with masonry piers and vaults.
The upper storey are now lost. The design principal seen in the fort of Hisar
constructed to be applied to buildings in later periods. In view of its historical

7 J. Marshall, The Monuments of Muslim India, Cambridge History of India, III, Cambridge, 1928,
590 91.
124 Medieval Monuments in India
and architectural importance it was declared protected as a monument of
national importance.8

-# 6 ' ( =

Bahadur Nahar, a resident of Sarhera village near Kotla who became a favourite
of Sultan Firoz Shah during his visits to Mewat for hunting in its vast jungles. He
was a Hindu. His name was Sambharpal. According to a local tradition
Sambharpal had once saved the life of Sultan Firoz Shah with a lion for that
sultan was very much impress for his bravery. So his name was called Bahadur
Nahar. Sultan Firoz gives him a zagir of Kotla. After some time he enlarges his
zagir then captured almost all Mewat. Soon, he became very famous zagirdar in
the Delhi Durbar. He made Kotla, his capital. Unfortunately, the place is now
only a small village of a few houses in district Mewat. The fort is on a rocky hill.
The site was probably chosen for its strategic importance. It is protected on the
east by the large lake named Dohan, which is from 6 km to 7 km in length by
upwards of 3 km in breadth.
Bahadur Nahar constructed this fort in 1380 AD. It still exists but is
unoccupied. The northern wall, with its gateway at the north east corner (Plate
158) and remains of bastioned walls are still standing. The gateway is arch in
arched. It is unprotected monument. It rises about 600’ or 700’ above the village
and only approach from the east is by a narrow footpath. In the western side
there is a very depth tunnel, probably the soldiers were used this tunnel to reach
the fort. The rocky hill is generally very precipitous. The fort is built of massive
blocks of stone and rectangular on plan. The walls are rugged, slope inwards and
crowned with line of battlements of solid stone and these too are provided with
loopholes. But whatever remains gives an idea of its sturdy vigour and
impressive grandeur. There is no sign of any repair work. In Rajasthan, there are
many hill forts but it is the only one of its type in Haryana.

7# 6 =

It is by all accounts, a gate of a great fort of older times. It seems to have suffered
serious damages many times. But these were repaired from time to time.
Prithaviraj Chauhan’s work still appears, through in parts. The old town of
Hansi was located in this fort. The outer wall of the fort had five gates opening,
in different directions. These were Delhi Gate on the east, Hisar Gate in the west,
Gosain Gate in the northwest, Barsi Gate on its south and Umra Gate in the
southwest.9

8 Ram Saran, Comp. “Monuments and Sites of National Importance in Haryana.” Archaeological
Survey of India, (Unpublished) Chandigarh: Chandigarh Circle, 2004. 20
9 Ibid, 22 23.
Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 125
Of these gates, only Barsi Gate is now intact. The Barsi Gate is named after
the village of Barsi, situated to the south of Hansi. Now, it is located in the centre
of the bazaar. It is an impressive piece of fort architectural craftsmanship (Plate
159). As recorded in an inscription10 over the pointed arch of the gate, Hazrat
Shaikh Jalaludin din Muhammad Sahib built this imposing gateway during the
reign of Sultan Alauddin Khalji (Plate 160). The inscription reads in full take this:

“In the time of the reign of the king of face of the earth, the lord of princes, Ala
uddunya waddin, Abul Muzaffar, the king of the world, Muhammad Shah—may
his kingdom be everlasting on the face of the earth: , The unrivalled, the master of
the world, the second Alexander, the fame of whose great deeds has reached the
highest heaven, This gate which has no equal was erected and is from its height an
honor to Saturn (the keeper of the seventh heaven), On the road to Delhi, the
king’s residence, which is the capital of the kingdom, * * * this strong fort [of
Hansi] * * * in the year 703 the edifice was erected [1303 4 A.D.].”

The Gate is a baked brick structure with a central archway flanked by


defensive towers. The towers are semi circular on plan and are heavily battered,
increasing the impression of massiveness.11 The gateway stands at a height of 30
m, however, it is single storey monument. The towers are provided with three
rows of arrow slits. There is a further row slits around the parapet of the gate,
which above the towers imitates battlements. The spandrels of the arch and the
recesses are decorated with glazed tile work in blue colour. The panel encasing
the arched opening has full blown lotus medallions on the top. On either side of
the gateway are three blind niches on each side in a same level. These niches are
decorated with bricks and glazed tiles. Upper niches are also decorated with
inverted lotus medallions.
On either side of the entrance arch of the gateway is a small sunken panel.
Each panel shows a man with a sword and a shield, fighting with lion. The left
panel although somewhat damaged, is more interesting. Here, the lion’s body
appears to be bearing the head of a horse. The hair of the animal has been
rendered more decoratively. The man holds his sword in his left hand. It may
have been simply due to the difficulty in depicting this figure having sword in
his right hand.12 The purpose of fixing these panels could not have been
decorative as they are too small, in size and placed in a very high position from
where they hardly visible (Plate 161).

10 H. Blochmann, ‘Delmerick’s Hansi Inscriptions’, PASB (1877), Calcutta, 1877, 122.


11 Mehrdad Shokoohy and Natalie H. Shokoohy, Hisar i Firuza. (London: School of Oriental and
African Studies, 1988), 95.
12 Subhash Parihar, ‘Depiction of animal motifs on the Muslim Monuments of the Punjab and
Haryana: A Survey’ JPHS, 40 (3), Karachi, 1992, 185 86.
126 Medieval Monuments in India

Figure 24 : Ground plan of the Barsi Gate, Hansi


(Source : M. Shokoohy & N.H. Shokoohy, Hisar i Firuza)

Two guard chambers with entrance inside the arch are built into the
massive piers. The passage leading through the gate has an arch lower than that
of the facade and a pierced stonework screen above, which lets in light from the
roof area (Figure 24). Eastern side of the gateway has not found any decorative
elements. The interior of the ceiling is also simple and ladao shaped. Another arch
of the same dimensions opens to the side facing the town. Here the interiors of
the towers are exposed to view. There are steps on each side giving access to the
tower and the roof. These steps are made of bricks and wooden slipper fixed on
the upper side. In the inner north wall of the gate is further an inscription13 on
the rectangular sandstone (Plate 162), measuring 1’ 5” by 1’ 1”, on which are five
lines. The translation is as follows:

“The building of the edifice of thisgate, together with the repairs of the upper
strong fort built by Ala’iuddin, which is dated 702 A.H. (began 26th August
1302), (took place) in the reign of the king of kings, Abul Muzaffar Ibrahim Shah,
the king, may God perpetuate his kingdom and rule!—and the governorship of
the Masnad i ali Hamid Khan,with perfect choice and during the shiqdari of
Khwaja Muhammad, and by order of Muwakkal, son of Kamal * * * , on the 5th
Zi’l Qa’da, 928 (26th September 1522). The writer was Khanzada Nasir, the
Mufti of Hansi”.

13 H. Blochmann, PASB (1877), 124; P. Horn, EI, 433; R. S. Phogat, Inscriptions of Haryana
(Kurukshetra: Vishal Publications, 1978), 91 92; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions in the
Punjab, Haryana and Himachal Pradesh (New Delhi: Inter India Publications, 1985), 26; M.
Wahid Mirza, EIAPS (1953 54), 4 5.
Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 127
The correct year of the erection of Ala uddin’s fortification is 703 A.H. as
given in the previous inscription. The building has been restored many times but
it has preserved most of its original appearance. According to the foundation
inscription14 set over the entrance it was built in 703/1303 at the time of the
Khalji sultan ‘Ala al din Muhammad on the road from Multan to Delhi. It
records one of its restorations in 928/1522 during the region of the Lodi sultan
Ibrahim Shah when it would have been part of the defenses of the town. This
restoration seems to have been relatively substantial, using a different type of
brick, smaller in size than those of Khalji period.15 On the southern decorative
niches formed in the brickwork with geometric patterns picked out with blue
tiles. It has relived the massive effect of the solid piers on either side of the
entrance.

># 2 6' " ; 9 =

Shah Ni’mat Ullah was a saint general who came to Hansi with the army of
Muhammad bin Sam and was killed there at the time of the conquest of the fort.
Some of his followers seem to have built a huge structure here and gave it the
name of their master. Now only a gateway of this building survives and is called
the gateway of Shah Ni’mat Ullah. It is situated to the south of the Khanqah. It is a
vaulted structure built of bricks (Plate 163). It was plastered over but some
decorative brickwork is left exposed. The gateway connects with two
interconnected chambers to the north and to the south for making the building
symmetrical. To the south eastern side of the gateway has stairs to the roof
(Figure 25). On the eastern side of the gateway are the remains of an arcade
formed of reused ancient columns.

Figure 25 : Ground plan of the Ni’mat Ullah gateway, Hansi

14 EIM, 1917 18, 18 19.


15 Mehrdad Shokoohy and Natalie H. Shokoohy, op. cit., 95.
128 Medieval Monuments in India
The columns differ in shape and one is carved with pot and foliage
decoration. From their size and carving it is clear that they do not originate from
the same date. More probably, the columns are the remains of an earlier
colonnade built with beams and brackets. The gateway itself has a vault with a
four centered profile. At present it seems that the building was still well
preserved.

?# 2 = '

This beautiful gate is a part of a large structure, built by Shah Quli Khan,16 a
trusted nobleman of Akbar. Of which huge structure, a tomb, a well and the
gateway are intact now.
The gateway stands south western side of the tomb himself in a large
walled in enclosure. This gateway itself is an elegant structure locally called
Tripolia, or the three gated structure17 (Pate 164). There is an inscription here
which mentions the date of its construction18 i.e., 1588 89 (Plate 165). It is three
storeyed building with slightly sloping walls of rubble covered with a thick layer
of plaster. Under the long flights of steps, double stairs lead to the second storey.
One long flight of steps on its either side leads directly to the third storey, which
comprises one central room at each corner. The central room is decorated with
graceful designs. The interior of the gateway is decorated with floral colours
(Plate 166). In the eastern and western side of the gateway semi octagonal
recesses has been made. There are three blind niches in the centre. The soffit of
the recesses has arched design. The facade of the gateway is adorned with
pleasing designs.

/# '< =

The Gujari Mahal was also built by Firoz Shah for his beloved Gujari, with whom
he fell in love during the course of his hunting. She was a native of Hisar. The
Mahal,19 situated out side the fort, stands on a huge rectangular platform (Plate
167) built of rubble and mortar. The platform of the Gujari Mahal has two square
projections on the eastern side, in the form of two towers. Deep vaulted recesses
are built in the western end of the north and south sides of the platform. The

16 Shah Quli Khan was made the Governor of Narnaul for 42 years. It is said that the Emperor,
out of goodwill towards him, admitted him to his female apartments, out of respect for
zanana, got himself castrated and died at Agra. Shah Quli Khan erected splendid buildings
and dug large tanks. He laid out beautiful gardens and named it Aram i Kauser. See Abul
Fazl, ain I Akbari, I, ed. H. Blochmann (New Delhi: Crown Publication, 1988), 388.
17 H.B.W. Garrick, ASI Report, vol. XXIII, 28.
18 S.P. Bhatia (Ed.), op. cit., 336; R. S. Bist and Mulk Raj Anand, op. cit., 32.
19 K.V. Soundara Rajan, op. cit., 82 83.
Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 129
vaulted recesses have cool chambers. A sloping ramp on the south west corner
gives access to flight of steps leading to the top of the platform.
The baradari located at the middle of the eastern side of the platform. The
walls are thick and battered. The whole building is 23’6” square inside. The walls
are 7’3” thick.20 There are three arched openings in each wall. The arches of the
exterior openings have horizontal cross lintels below the level of the springing
line. The doors and window frames are in rectangular form. To provide a flat
roof the spaces round the domes are filled with rubble and mortar.
The baradari has eave stones and are set on brackets on the spring level.
The roof has nine small pendentives with hemispherical domes (Plate 168),
supported by four columns and a series of pilasters. Gorgeously designed and
carved with ghata pallava and lahara vallari motifs, it gives an idea of the ancient
architectural marvels of Haryana which were, however, the aesthetic appeal of
these four pillars that even they have re used them in this baradari and seem to be
originally from an ancient temple at Agroha.21 These pillars are 6’11” high and
about 1’4” square.22 These pillars are decorated with pot or foliage carvings
(Plate 169). The bases and capitals are ornamented with arch motifs. The floor is
covered with bricks. If the brickwork is in original form, it is a rare example of a
Firoz Shahi brick floor still in good condition. Apart from the columns, the rest of
the stonework of the interior is of red sandstone, which is plainly dressed. It
seems that the building was designed to show these unusual and ancient pieces
to the best advantage.
Access to the roof is go through a flight of steps and built into the north
west corner pier. But the stairway is closed due to security purpose. Below the
building are three tahkhanas, two of which are merely rooms, while the central
one contains a small hauz or tank filled with pipes and was evidently used as a
bath. In the north east and south west piers the stairway leads down to the water
channel. The water would have lowered the temperature.
There is a rectangular building with two chambers, to the north of the
main pavilion with thick battered walls. The chambers have a barrel vaulted
ceiling. Three entrances to the south and arched niches have all sides of the
interior. The pavilion may be the guardroom. Between pavilion and baradari have
five graves on the platform.
To its west is a mausoleum, which is roofless having a platform containing
nine graves. All the graves appears to be of a much later period and do not seem
to have any connection with the original function of the structure. The Gujari
Mahal was evidently a secular monument as it is not orientated towards the qibla.
It seems to have been built as an airy retreat away from the fort, enjoying views
over the gardens and cooling by the water flowing through the core of the

20 Rodgers, Revised List, 65.


21 The District Gazetteer of Hisar, Lahore, 1915, 16.
22 Rodgers, Revised List, 65.
130 Medieval Monuments in India
platform. It is similar in appearance to the Bijai Mandal in Delhi, built by
Muhammad bin Tughlaq Shah.23
Though the Gujari Mahal is not as beautiful as the Taj Mahal is, yet the
two buildings owe their standing to the noble sprit of love and sacrifice. By
having built the Gujari Mahal got his beloved, Firoz Shah Tughlaq has indeed set
an example, though unconsciously, for Shah Jahan who got the matchless Taj
Mahal built in the memory of his beloved queen Mumtaj.

0# $ = '

This is also the work of Nawab Shah Quli Khan. He built this Khan Sarovar,
which is locally known as the Jal Mahal (Plate 170). The Jal Mahal was close to
the tomb complex. It is situated on the middle of a large square water tank. It is
constructed over a bridge resting on sixteen ached spans. The entrance to the
palace is from the north through a gatehouse, with rooms for guards (Figure 26).
The gateway is an unassuming structure of modest proportions with a central
arched opening leading to the causeway. On the northern façade of Jal Mahal are
two inscriptions,24 which have partly come off. The surviving portion is a verse
containing the chronogram (Plate 171). The first inscription over the north arch is
as under:

“This pleasant building, which is the envy of Iram, its water and air are
refreshing like Paradise. It was built in the reign of Akbar, the victorious, the king
who has placed his foot on the heads of the kings of the world. As Shah Quli Khan
has laid its foundation, O God! make it durable like the palace of the highest
heaven. The far sighted Wisdom, for the date of its foundation, said, “This was
built in the year 999 A.H. (1591 A.D.)”.

The second inscription over the north entrance hall is as follows:

Jamshaid in dignity, Shah Quli Khan, the honour of the country, he who has
carried away the ball of valour from his rivals. Generous like the ocean, grave like
the mountain, of exalted rank; a second Rustam and the Hatim Tai of this time.
May the wine of joy be ever in his palate, may he be victorious in the day of battle
and prosperous in the day of entertainment. He has built a tank, which is a second
Kausar, and a palace like the garden of Iram in the middle of it. The water of
immortality gives an idea of its water, and the pleasant air of Paradise is a
specimen of its air. O God! keep it safe from the vicissitudes of time, so that he
may sit in joy and exultation in this house. I inquired of Wisdom about the date of
its completion; the reply, “the house of Grace,” came to the ear of my soul. 1001
A.H. (1593 A.D.)”.

23 Mehrdad Shokoohy and Natalie H. Shokoohy, op. cit., 44.


24 G. Yazdani, JPASB, Vol. III, 641 642; Subhash Parihar, Muslim Inscriptions, 49 50.
Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 131
The inscriptions show that paradisiacal imagery continues to be a
trademark of Mughal architecture, for the tank in which the palace sits is called a
‘second Kausar’ (a pool in paradise). While such inscriptions often praise the
patron, their flattery is usually very general. Shah Quli Khan is called the honor
of the country... that carried away the ball of valor from his rivals.25

Figure 26 : Ground plan of the Jal Mahal, Narnaul


(Source : Archaeological Survey of India)

25 G. Yazdani, op. cit., 642; Catherine B. Asher, The New Cambridge History of India, 1: 4,
Architecture of Mughal India (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1992), 84.
132 Medieval Monuments in India
This double storeyed structure is situated amidst a large tank. The
building is a square of 17 m side, comprising a central square chamber of 5.9 m
side with four small rooms on the sides placed at its four corners. It has 3.9 m
deep verandah all the four sides. The corner chambers, measuring 2.5 m sides, are
doubled storeyed within the same height. Four staircases, two each in the north
and south faces, give access to the upper storey. A chajjā resting on brackets
terminates the wall plane.
The domical ceiling of the central room had graceful designs painted in
harmonious colours, (Plate 172) traces of which are still extant which seems to
‘have been adapted from some Rajput palace, most probably of Amber’. The
ceilings of the verandahs also bear traces of painted decoration. All four faces of
the pavilion are identical. The façade has a large arcade opening in the centre
flanked by smaller arcade openings, two on each side. It is adorned with
geometrical designs rendered in hirmichi red colour. Stalactites appear on the
ceiling of the central room. The whole structure is covered with plaster with the
smoothness of marble. The upper portion of the Jal Mahal is decorated with
arches on the heads of the entrance doors, open on all sides and overlooking into
the central chamber. The arches at the corners have been decorated beautifully
with stalactite designs, beautifully painted in different colours (Plate 173).
The roof of the Mahal is flat. At each corner of the building is installed a
square cupola supported on octagonal sandstone pillars. In the centre of the roof
is an octagonal platform, approached by steps and covered with an octagonal
cupola. The chhatrīs of the super structure recall another building at Fatehpur
Sikri, the so called Diwan i Khas. Such multiple chhatrīs on flat roofs were typical
of domestic architecture.26 It was used perhaps the venue for enjoying the breeze
(cool air) and the view across the enveloping garden.
Shah Quli Khan’s pavilion resembles various imperial structures in its
individual parts. This pavilion probably draws inspiration from building of
Fatehpur Sikri that sat on the Idgah of a lake, although both the Hada Mahal and
Qush Khana there are octagonal. It was also a modal for a similar pavilion in
Bairat (Jaipur District). That pavilion, dated about a decade later than the Jal
Mahal and attributed to Raja Man Singh, was also set in water.

@# 6 ' ' Chhatta, '

Rai Bal Mukund Das was a resident of Narnaul. At first, he was employed in the
service of Mirza Abdul Hasan, son of Nawab Itimadud Daula as his
superintendent of grants (diwan i buyutat).27 But being a man of common sense
and integrity, he rose in time to be the governor of Narnaul. He built his haveli in
the heart of the town called Rai Mukand Das ka Chhatta. The local people call it

26 Catherine B. Asher, op. cit., 84.


27 Z. A. Desai, Nobility under the Great Mughals (New Delhi: Sundeep Prakashan), 2003, 151 52.
Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 133
Birbal Ka Chhatta which has no basis.28 Garrick calls it Chhattar, which seems to be
the result of some misunderstanding on his part29 (Plate 174).
The structure (haveli) is much like a building of Akbar’s time. It preserves
its original design without any subsequent addition or alteration. It is lying quite
neglected and in a very dilapidated condition. This four storeyed haveli of Rai
Mukand Das is dexterously planned.
The building stands on a high platform, which might have served as
servant’s quarters. It has small rooms on its out side. The platform is corbelled
out in the southern wall of the building. It adds an imperial appearance to this
haveli. It accommodates tahkhanas for use in hot weather. A flight of steps in the
western wall of the platform leads to the terrace, on which stands the haveli. At
this floor is a lofty gateway, facing west. The façade of this gateway bears a scene
of elephant fight. Although the elephants are in full action, yet their riders are
sitting expressionless. The picture has lost its colours and only engraved lines are
visible now. The ceilings of the gateways and the top pavilion in the north east
corner bear traces of net vaulting and attractive stalactite designs.30 The narrow
passage leading inner side from this gateway takes four sharp turns.
Like the Rajput palaces, the courtyard of this haveli has deep arcades on all
sides and a raised platform in the centre. Each section comprises an open
courtyard surrounded with rooms and verandahs of various sizes (Plate 175). Two
larger rooms on the southern side had mezzanine floors, which have now
crumbled. All the walls have many niches and are hardly any plain surface is
left. The marble pillars in the verandahs have square bases but polygonal shafts.
In the building, hammam is attached to the south east corner. It is much
simpler than the hammams of Fatehpur Sikri, which comprises three cells of
different sizes and shapes. All the cells are interconnected by corridors. The
existence of water tanks in the next room indicates that it was the hot room,
while the third room functioned as a cold bath. These apartments take the form
of large aisled hall with oblong rooms on each side. A water pool and chutes in
the hall helped in mitigating the heat of summer.
A staircase in the eastern wall of the larger courtyard approaches it.
Corner rooms on this floor accommodated the inmate in a case of rain. There is a
screened off portion in the north west corner. However, the two main structures
on this floor are jharokhā or cradle balcony in the southern wall and a large hall in
the south west corner, set above the main gate. The balcony consists of a
rectangular cradle and surmounted by a banglādār or curved roof.
All the pillars on the lower storey are of marble. The ceiling of this hall is
of wooden (Plate 176), perhaps to reduce the weight on the vaulted roof of the
gateway. The western wall of the hall has three openings for cross ventilation. To

28 Chhatta in Urdu means a ‘hive’ or ‘a honeycomb’; here many buildings cluster round this
haveli.
29 H.B.W. Garrick, ASI Report, XXIII, 28.
30 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 45.
134 Medieval Monuments in India
the east of the haveli stands an isolated structure of pronounced Rajasthani
character. This structure is believed to have been the gateway to the enclosure
around the haveli. Now it is called the Moti Mahal, with a central arched opening
and projecting balconies at the upper level.
Architecturally, the haveli shows on trabeate as well as arcuate systems of
construction. The gateway, the hammam and the subterranean apartments have
vaulted ceilings. The projecting balcony on the second storey and the top
pavilion in the north east corner has banglādārs, typical of the buildings of the
reign of Shah Jahan and of Rajput places. The rest of the rooms and verandahs
were all covered with flat wooden roofs, a number of which have collapsed. A
typical Hindu architectural feature is the use of chajjā or deep caves. The use of
jālīs or lattices across the windows, conspicuous in Rajput palaces, is almost
absent here.

3# = 6'

It is a simple double storeyed building, situated to the north west of the village
Buria and 6 km to the east of Jagadhari (Plate 177). Charles J. Rodgers makes a
mention of Rang Mahal.31 H.H. Cole ascribes its construction to Shah Jahan who,
he says, though without substantial basis, built it in 1630 A.D.32 It gains its name
Rang Mahal from the colour decoration. Presently since the structure is in ruins,
the decoration is visible in its minimal form. But from the extant remains it can
be estimated the scale of decoration and visual appearance it must have had
originally.
The ground floor comprises a square room of 4.3 m. side with an oblong
room in each corner. All the rooms are covered with flat ceilings and connected
with one another through one meter broad, flat arched openings.33 The side
rooms from a sort of corridor around the central rooms, in the centre of which is
a thick pillar supporting the ceiling. Most probably, this pillar is a later addition
as it is totally out of proportion with the dimensions of the room in which it
stands.
The flight of stairs from the north eastern and south western corner leads
to the first floor.34 There are in total eight steps, which lead to the first floor. Each
step is 3’3” by 10”. All rooms have a similar arrangement. The difference being
that their ceilings are slightly domical and there is no pillar in the central room as
is seen in the ground floor. The total area of the first floor is 58’10” by 54’8”. The

31 Charles J. Rodgers, Revised List of the Objects of Archaeological Interest, Lahore, 1891, 52.
32 H.H. Cole, List of some Ancient and other Native Architectural building in India, Simla, 1880, 11.
33 As is evident from the place the ceiling of the central hall no longer exists and is in a
dilapidated condition.
34 However, Bianca Alfieri states that stairs ran from northwestern and southern corners, which
is not correct. Bianca Maria Alfieri, Islamic Architecture of Indian Subcontinent (London: Mapin,
2000), 262.
Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 135
central hall is 20’10” by 22’. Total height of the central hall from the floor to the
ceiling is approximately 17’. Rooms on the upper floor are covered with low
domes and are concave in shape.35 The first floor leads to the roof of the building
by means of twelve steps. The first step measures 3’ by 10.5” while other eleven
steps measures 3’3” by 10”. The height of each step is 10”. On the top floor, the
flights of steps are covered with simple structures, each topped by two small
domes. The building stands on a raised platform, which is made of bricks and
plastered with lime. The structure is provided with straight as well as slanting
ventilators so that every draught of air is bound to pass through the palace,
cooling it.
The walls of the Rang Mahal are profusely adorned with paintings
depicting such motifs as vase and flowers, cypress and date trees, flowering trees
and arabesque borders. But on the spandrels of a room on the ground floor may
be seen the live representations of running elephants. Other animate motifs
painted on the walls of this room are fairies, peacocks and other birds. In its
pristine condition, the exterior walls of this palace also bore painted decoration.
But due to the effect of the elements, it has lost its colours. However, one panel
depicting a lady with a peacock can still be seen (Plate 178), although not very
clearly, on the northern corner of the western wall, the lady is dressed in red and
viridian garments.36
The whole building was plastered with a fine quality of chunam (lime).
Some of its portions still retain a marble like lusture. At present, the building has
developed wide cracks in its walls and ceilings. Now it is in neglected condition,
it should be immediate conserve and preserve.

*.# 2 Baradari

Tosham is a small town, about 35 kilometers south west of Hansi. The town is
situated at the eastern foot of a huge conical rock. Garrick has noted that on the
top of the rock are the ruins of the rampart of an ancient citadel and around the
hills are traces of fortification walls37 but at present there is no sign of any
fortification walls.
On the summit of this smaller rock is a cruciform vaulted monument
known as the baradari (Plate 179). Local tradition associates the building with the
last Hindu ruler of Prithvi Raja’s Kachari or law court; hence it is called Prithvi Raj
ka Kacheri.38 The baradari (twelve doors, though in reality it possesses sixteen
openings) refers simply to the number of arched openings around the structure.

35 Sanjay Sobodh and Chand Singh, PIHC, 65th, 1152 53.


36 Subhash Parihar, Some Aspects of Indo Islamic Architecture (New Delhi: Abhinav Publications,
1999), 146; Subhash Parihar, JPHS, 40, 1992, 187 88.
37 H.B.W. Garrick, ASI Report, vol. XXIII, 20.
38 H.B.W. Garrick, ASI Report of a Tour in the Panjab and Rajputana in 1883 84. (Reprint. Delhi:
Rahul Publishing House, 1994), 24 25.
136 Medieval Monuments in India
These openings are apparently built to let in air or perhaps at certain times of the
day rays of sunlight.
The building stands on a high platform, which is constructed with large
blocks of stone. The baradari is built on a cruciform plan of stone and lime
material and plastered over it. It has massive battered walls. The height of this
platform bears 7’ and measures 41’ from north to south and 37’ 4” from east to
west. The floor measures 97’ north and south and 61’5” east and west. The plan
of the citadel is a cross. Each wing is 5 m high and projects over 3 m from the
central building, which is covered by a dome.39
It has twelve arched doorways from the outside; leading into four vaulted
chambers and connected by a doorway to a central domed chamber. This central
chamber is known as a baradari. All the five chambers are similar in size and
measure 2.3 m square on average. It is made of rubble stones, joined and
plastered over with lime mortar. The corners of the central chamber form an
octagon supporting the transitional zone of a hemispherical dome rising from a
relatively high drum. Below the corner slabs the wall are pierced by small
sloping openings leading to the highest point of the inner angles of the exterior
walls. There are also a number of openings round the drum of the dome. The
dome itself, showing that ventilation of the central room was a primary concern.
The four outer chambers have cross vaults and their roofs are flat, making the
central dome visible from all directions.40
Although there is no record to help us in dating the structure, the form of
the baradari and its building materials give some indication of its age. The
baradari is closely similar in its method of construction of the Firoz Shahi
buildings of Hisar and elsewhere. The battered walls, a profile of the arches,
close to two centred rather than four centred in form, use of stones and the
hemispherical shape of the dome are all common features in Tughlaq
architecture.41 All elements indicate that the baradari must be of Tughlaq period.
However, due to lack of proper maintenance and protection among people and
government agencies this monument has quickly lost its original value.

**# ( Baradari=

A baradari is a building having twelve doors and designed to allow the free
draught of air through it. It used to be made on raised platforms. The baradari is
an Islamic structure, in which the building material of old Hindu structure has
been freely used.42 It is a large arcaded brick structure with semi circular arches
(Plate 180). Its floor level is over 1 m. below the present ground level. Originally,
the building having eighty four arches dividing the entire span in to fifty bays

39 Mulk Raj Anand and R. S. Bist, Haryana Heritage (Bombay: Marg Publications, 1974), 22.
40 Mehrdad Shokoohy and Natalie H. Shokoohy, op. cit., 112.
41 Ibid.
42 R. S. Bist and Mulk Raj Anand, op. cit., 29.
Forts, Gates, Baradaris and Gardens 137
stand on thirty six pillars hall (Plate 181). A beautiful frieze depicting the
identical theme of swan in different poses was also here, now that was missing.
The baradari is 7’.4” depth under the ground level. The outer side
measurement of the boundary wall of the baradari is 120’.9” by 68’.6” and baradari
is 104’.5” by 52’ outside. There are 9 stairs leading to downward from ground
level. The main entrance is in the northern side. There is 5’ width of the gateway.
The gallery between baradari and outer wall is 8’.3” all around spread. During the
later periods, Colonel Skinner’s rule, the baradari43 was converted into horse
stable, which perhaps necessitated the partition wall inside in the pillared bays.

*-# ' = <

The celebrated Mughal Garden situated, at Pinjore on the Chandigarh Kalka


road, at a distance of 26 km from Chandigarh (Plate 182). It was laid out by Fidai
Khan during the 17th century. He was the governor of Sirhind and foster brother
of Aurangzeb. Taking advantage of a natural slope running down to the Ghaggar
torrent, this garden was laid out here in six terraces ‘in faithful tradition of
Shalimar’44 the famous garden at Lahore. It is said that Fidai Khan did not live
here for long to enjoy the beauty of his creation. After some time, the garden
passed into the hands of Raja of Bhiwana and from him to the Raja of Sirmaur.45
The Patiala house bought the garden along with a considerable area and was
named as Yadvindra Garden, after the late Maharaja of Patiala.46
The main gateway of the garden, which is to the east, leads to a
rectangular platform, having seats on three sides (Plate 183). The usual Mughal
plan is reversed in this garden as on entering it, we face down instead of up the
main canal. From here stretches the first terrace of the garden. A graceful
baradari, having curved roof and small side domes, is built across the stream.
Through a wall flanking the baradari, doors open on to the second terrace,
which was Purdah garden for the ladies. The water after running beneath the
baradari falls over a projecting ledge, in front of a wall having six rows of fifteen
small niches each, once used for placing earthen lamps (Plate 184). Such niches
are present even in the earliest Mughal garden in Agra, i.e., Ram Bagh, laid out
by Babur.47 The Mughal garden planners gradually recognized the inherent
value of their superb effect.
The second terrace is bound on its western side by the great wide
archways of the palace, known as Rang Mahal. This palace is beautifully placed
on the wall dividing the upper two terraces from the rest of the garden below. It

43 K.V. Soundara Rajan, op. cit., 85. Soundara Rajan also implies that baradari is an old Islamic
building perhaps from the time of Tughlaq.
44 R. Nath, “Landscape Architecture and Gardens”, Marg, XXVI, Bombay, 1972, 24.
45 Ambala District Gazetteer, Lahore, 1925, 138.
46 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 14.
47 R. Nath, ‘Landscape Architecture, 24.
138 Medieval Monuments in India
is an open hall under which flows the main canal. The unsymmetrical super
structure atop the said palace is an eyesore.48
The lower apartments have been repainted. According to C M V Stuart,
the smallest room on the first floor retained its original decoration.49 “The walls
of this room”, praises Stuart, “were white, plastered with the old highly polished
chanam (lime); and the delicate designs half painted and half moulded, brought
back to mind inlaid work of Agra and Delhi.
The woodwork painted with bouquets of flowers in vases always a
favourite Mughal design against a dull green background.50 But all the rooms of
the upper storey were erected perhaps by the rulers of Patiala State. The water
running under the Rang Mahal, after passing over a prominent niches screen,
falls into a large tank, which is in the middle of a masonry platform, projected
halfway into the garden below. From this tank, water rippled down a carved
stone chute.51
From the terrace of the Rang Mahal, steps descend through the thickness
of the wall, coming out on the halfway platform and then continue into a second
flight leading down to the third terrace. This lower garden has two gateways in
the sidewalls and one at the far end, i.e., in the western wall. This latter gateway
‘was intended more to complete the design than for any use it served’.52
On the fourth terrace is a large water tank. A causeway from its southern
bank leads to a little water palace. It is slightly to the northern side of the centre
of the tank “to leave an uninterrupted view down the main canal from the upper
garden”.53 Fountains play round this little palace (Plate 185). On each side of the
tank, Stuart had witnessed a watercourse, even then dry, but which showed him
where, in former days, canals from this tank led up to the gateways on the either
side.54
The planting in all the Mughal gardens, including this one, “can only be
guessed at from contemporary paintings and memoirs, for it is in this respect
that the Mughal gardens have most profoundly changed today (Plate 186).
The whole garden is enclosed by a crenellated wall, once marked by an
octagonal tower at each of its corners.55 After a careful examination of the
enclosing wall, Rodgers concluded that they were originally made of the remains
of ancient buildings.56 He had seen fragments of sculptures, built in the wall.

48 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 14 15.


49 C. M. V. Stuart, Gardens of the Great Mughals, London: Adam and Carles Block, 1913, 3.
50 Ibid., 224.
51 Subhash Parihar, Mughal Monuments, 15.
52 C. M. V. Stuart, op. cit., 224.
53 Ibid.
54 Ibid.
55 Stuart, op. cit., 215.
56 Charles Rodgers, Reports, 30.
)0

BAOLIS, 2 CA

No life can be imagined or conceived of without water. Therefore, water sources


and structures related to them have been occupying great spaces in people’s
lives. And it was precisely for this reason that our forebears attached great
sanctity to the both. The kings and philanthropists always recognized their
importance and built structures to make themselves immortal. There are several
such structures in Haryana. It is surprising, however, that neither in the histories
of art nor general histories do we find adequate mention of them. In what
follows, an effort is being made to supply the desideratum. For the convenience
of the study, the water structures have been divided into the following
categories: Baolis, Tanks (Talao) and Wells.

BAOLIS

Baoli1 is an unique form of a structure called step well built with architectural
and aesthetic beauty. Fortunately, many baolis survive all over Haryana to this
day. The baolis are constructed to preserve and store water, even during the
hottest summer months.2 Their construction was considered, as noted above, a
great service to the society.
The baoli in Haryana consist of two parts: a circular or octagonal well,
from which water is drawn up either by pur,3 operated manually or by bullocks
or by a series of galleries or floors, connected by flights of steps descending
successively from the upper most platform to a lower landing on which stand
pillars supporting a roof of equal breadth above.4

1 In Gujarati, the terms vāv, vāvdi or vāi are in common use. In some travellers accounts they
are also transcribed as bāuri or browrie but in northern region of India around Delhi and
Haryana, the terms are bāori, or bāuli in used.
2 Jutta Jain Neubauer, The Stepwells of Gujarat: An Art Historical Perspective (New Delhi:
Abhinav Publications, 1981), XI XII.
3 A leathern bag to take water from a well.
4 R. Nath, Some Aspects of Mughal Architecture (New Delhi: Abhinav Publications, 1976), 22 23.
140 Medieval Monuments in India
As most of the baolis have lost their inherent function (water supply and
storage) and are either deserted or in a broken down condition due to neglect
and lack of interest of the people living around. Some of these baolis which still
exist (Map 8), in howsoever bad state of existence, are described bellow :

Map 8 : Baolis in Haryana (Not to scale)


Baolis, Tanks & Wells 141
! 2 2 BAOLIS :

# # Baoli’s m
1 Pingwan Baoli Pingwan (Mewat)
2 Luhari Baoli Luhari (Jhajjar)
3 Mirza Ali Jan Ki Baoli Narnaul
4 Meham Baoli Meham
5 Khaithal Baoli Khaithal
6 Tohana Baoli Tohana
7 Mandir Baoli Thanesar
8 College Baoli Narnaul
9 Fort Baoli Hansi

*# Baoli

It is located in Pingwan village, district Mewat, 1 km from the village on the


Punahana (Plate 187). It was built in the memory of some noble who died whilst
journeying towards Kandhar.5 It is a double storey structure, which is full of wild
growth, stone and other dust material. The plaster of this baoli has been chipped
off. This baoli is laid out in the east west direction, the well being in the west and
the entrance being in the east. The full length of the baoli is 21.3 m from entrance
to the backside wall of the well. The breadth of the baoli is 7.3 m. There are
embellished with two alcoves and six blind niches on each side (Plate 188). The
nest of the weaverbird is hanging here, which is very beautiful. The architectural
features of the pavilion seem to be of Tughalq period.

-# ' Baoli

It is located in Luhari village, district Jhajjar, on the Pataudi Jhajjar road about
100 m. far in the western side from the main road (Plate 189). It has rectangular
well and at the end it turns in circular shape from which water is drawn up by
bullocks or by manually and by flights of steps descending from the water level.
The width of the platform is 17.5 feet. It has 46 stairs, which reach to the water
level. It seems three storey structure. The depth of the well is 40 feet. Central
portion of the baoli is wider than the platform.
It is constructed of stone blocks. Local peoples says it Mughalie, Mughali
baoli. According to one Suraj Mal, living near the baoli, there was an inscription
on the baoli but few years later, the inscription was destroyed during its repair
work. They didn’t know the importance of the inscription. The village panchayat
fixed an electric tubewell in this baoli. Now, local people used it as a garbage pit.
Both side of the baoli have six blind niches. No other literacy source is available,

5 Dalip Singh, ‘Baolis of Haryan’, PIHC, Aligarh, 1994, 890.


142 Medieval Monuments in India
who speaks the chronology of its construction. It is the best preserved baoli in the
Haryana state. According to its architectural feature this baoli seems to be
Mughal period It. is unprotected monument. Due to lack of maintenance and
awareness among government agencies and people this historical baoli has been
turned into ruins. It is dire need of maintenance.

7# Mirza Ali Jan Baoli= '

This baoli was built by one Mirza Ali Jan, at the western end of the town, in the
medieval times. He was a noble in Akbar’s time. The baoli forms of a large
complex given the appellation of ‘Mirza Ali Jan ka takht” or the throne of Mirza
Ali Jan (Plate 190). The gateway of the baoli is very majestic. The gateway is like
two big arches and double storeys. First storey is arcade pavilion and second
storey is pillared, covering an area 6.9 m by 2.5 m and 11 m high structure
surmounted with open. This is in the north – south direction. The main gate is in
the north direction and the octagonal well is in the south direction (Plate 191).
The flight of stairs, leads to the first storey. Each side has 11 stairs, which
measure 1.22 m by 46 cm. and 20.3 cm. Eastern and western sides of the walls
have two entrances gate to go to the first storey. Ceiling of the pavilion has
geometrical design. For the second storey, there are flights of steps on both sides.
There are total 10 stairs, measuring 66 cm by 28 cm and 29 cm. At last there is a
takht, pillared pavilion. Each of its pillars, measuring 0.36 m square and bearing
carving in base relief, is made of black stones. The rest of the complex is made of
rubble. Only a merlons design of red sandstone appears on the parapet.
In front of the gateway of the baoli is an octagonal tank of 3 m of each side,
1.3 m deep, with a fountain in the centre. Between the gateway and fountain,
laying 10 stairs, measuring 3 m by 41 cm and 20 cm. Both side of the stairs
waterfall system had adopted. From here extended a small garden, covering an
area 44.4 by 12.1 m all that survives of this garden are two water chutes, formed
by receding layers of stone.6 Both side of the baoli, there are made a water
channel (Nali), which had join to the main channel and western part of the
Persian wheel.
There is a rectangular arcade reservoir in the baoli (Plate 192). We can see
only 16 stairs to go in to the reservoir, measuring 5.3 m by 46 cm and 28 cm. Both
side of the flight of stairs leading to the water are arcaded pavilion, made of
rubble. At the southern end, there was an octagonal well of 3 m. side. Water had
gone into the tank through a Persian wheel and channel, which were 11.5 cm
depths and 15 cm breadths. This water channel was also used for watering in the
garden.
The baoli bears two inscriptions which cannot be deciphered properly.
One of them is readable to the extent that it mentions Akbar Padshah. Though it is

6 Subhash Parihar, Marg, 51 (1), 70.


Baolis, Tanks & Wells 143
protected monument under the Haryana Archaeology and Museum Department
but it is in a neglected condition. It requires immediate conservation and
preservation.

># Baoli

It is located in Meham, an important town on the Delhi Hisar highway (Delhi –


Multan in olden times). The baoli is situated southern side of the town. It is the
finest and best preserved specimen in this region (Plate 193). The British traveller
Peter Mundy appraised it as ‘a monument of public utility worthy of
munificence of a Roman Emperor.’7 According to an inscription (Plate 194) it was
erected by a person namely Saidu Kalal a chobdar to emperor Shahjahan in the
year 1069 A.H. (1658 59 A.D.).8 The translation of the inscription is as follows:

“In the reign of the king of kings, conqueror of the world, the spring of paradise
was dug by Saidu. When I searched for its date from the sage, He replied, ‘the
water of charity floweth ever’, A.H. 1096”.

The inscription is engraved on marble tablet affixed to the eastern wall of


the shaft. No other information is forth coming about the builder of this fine baoli.
Local tradition, however, avers that he was a mace bearer of the emperor Shah
Jahan, the surname indicating that it belonged to the community of traders.
This baoli has 101 flights of stairs leading down to the water (Figure 27). At
the end of the flight of steps lies the well proper (Plate 195), which is octagonal
and forms end of the structure. Subsidiary staircases in the thickness of the wall
give access to the landings. A raised chabutra with a tank of either of its east and
west side marks the well on the ground level. At present, the water level is 15.2
m bellow the parapet.
The baoli is a brick and kankar structure. It descends in three stages. The
first stage, at a depth of 4.3 meter from ground level, is reached after descending
a flight of 16 steps. From here, an equal number of steps lead to the second stage,
4.6 meter deeper then the first. Here again a flight of twelve steps descends 6.3 m
deeper where there is a wide arch built across the sidewalls to contract their
inward thrust. This archway has rectangular recesses in its sides.
After descending four steps, henceforward all the previous levels were
rectangular adjoining the last section is the shaft of the well. Close to the well is

7 Peter Mundy, Pen & Pencil Sketches, I (London: John Murray, 1832), 354.
8 Subhash Parihar, ‘Baolis of Punjab and Haryana’, Marg, 51 (1), Mumbai, 1999, 73; Rohtak
District Gazetteer (1910), 43. The above reading is faulty, the actual date is AH 1069 not to AH
1096. Though the inscription is damaged now. The date 1067 AH, given by Rodgers
(Rodgers, Revised List, 76) is also not correct.
144 Medieval Monuments in India
the place, which is said to have housed suites of rooms9 (Plate 196). It is with
these rooms that one can realize the great achievement of the Mughals, which
was to transform the furnace heat of India into a cool paradise.10 It is a protected
monument; vide its notification No. 4891 dated 12.02.1923.11 It is in good state of
preservation.

Figure 27 : Ground plan of Meham Baoli


(Source : Archaeological Survey of India, Chandigarh Circle.)

9 Peter Mundy, op. cit., 354; Charles J. Rodgers, Revised List of the Objects of The Archaeological
Interest in Punjab, Lahore, 1891, 76.
10 Subhash Parihar, Marg, 50 (1), 62.
11 Inventory of Monuments and Cites, I, Part II, Chandigarh Circle, New Delhi, 1999, 79.
Baolis, Tanks & Wells 145
?# Baoli

This baoli is situated adjoining the enclosure wall of the civil hospital, Kaithal
(Plate 197). It is being used as a garbage pit with the result that most of the steps
of the structure leading to the water is not visible now. However, in its pristine
condition it must have been an impressive structure, so that the Archaeological
Survey of India declared it a protected monument as early as in 1919.12 Some
repairs to it were affected during the year 1935 36,13 but later the department
seems to have lost interest. Now it does not figure on the list of protected
monuments of either the central government or the Haryana State government.
The whole area is covered by the baoli, which measures 77.2 m by 8.8 m.
Arcades of semi octagonal recesses 1.8 m broad and 1.2 m deep relieve the
monotony of the sidewalls (Plate 198), which are supported by two arches
thrown across them. In the first archway, 4.1 m broad four centered arch forms
the main opening, which is flanked by 1.2 m broad arch.14
Besides the main flight of stairs, the baoli has one subsidiary stairway,
descending near the second archway. Both stairways communicate with a well of
6 meter diameter set at the end of the structure. Traditionally, the baoli is
associated with the name of Chhajju Mal but Rodgers attributes its construction to
one Sandhas.15 It is estimated it must have cost at least Rs. 50,000.16 The use of
cusped profile for the main opening in the second archway built across the
sidewalls indicates the reign of Shah Jahan (1628 58) or later when the cusped
arch was in style (Plate 199). At present this stepwell is not a protected
monument. It also requires immediate conservation and preservation.

/# 2 Baoli

It is located outside of the town where in Chaukhandi Muhalla (Plate 200). It is in


utter ruin. None of its stairs leading to the water is extant, and it too is filled with
garbage. This baoli is similar to the Kaithal baoli. It covers an overall area
measuring 60 m by 7.4 m. The semi octagonal recesses in the sidewalls are 1.7 m
broad and 0.8 m deep. The central opening in the first archway is 3.1 m broad
and those on the sides 1 m broad each.17
The main arch of the second archway here too has a cusped profile (Plate
201). The additional stairway is also presented here and situated near the well.
The well, measuring 5.3 m in diameter (Plate 202), has two large sockets near the
parapet for affixing the rafters of the wheel for drawing water. On the ground

12 Vide notification no. 13762 dated 21.5.1919.


13 J. F. Blakiston, Annual Report of Archaeological Survey of India 1935 36(Delhi, 1938), 15.
14 Subhash Parihar, Marg, 51 (1), 63.
15 J.F. Blakiston, op. cit., 62.
16 Rodgers, Revised List, 62.
17 Subhash Parihar, Marg, 51 (1), 63.
146 Medieval Monuments in India
level, the well is surrounded with an octagonal platform of 4.6 m side. At
present, the water table is merely 8.6 m below the parapet.18
Nothing whatsoever is known about the builder of the baoli or the date of
its construction during the last century both Hindus and Muslims laid equal
claim to it. Rodgers arbitrarily places its construction during the time of the Lodi
rulers (1451 1526).19 The presence of the cusped arches, this baoli too, like the
Kaithal baoli, could not have been constructed before the reign of Shah Jahan. It is
not a protected monument of either Archaeological Survey of India or Haryana
Archaeology and Museum Department. It requires immediate conservation and
preservation. The local people would be aware about the importance of the
historical monument.

0# Mandir Baoli, 2

The baoli is situated backside of the Hanuman Temple at Thanesar (Plate 203).
Local people call it Mandir baoli or Parwati Mandir baoli. It is located 200 m
northern side of the Shaikh Chehli’s tomb. Dalip Singh mention that, it was built
in about 1480 without any sources but its architectural features tells that it was
constructed in the Shahjahan reign (Mughal period).20 It is made of Lakhori
bricks and plastered on lime mortar. It has two portions; first portion is 4.9 m
length and 2.65 m broad. It has 8 stairs. Its second portion has 3.63 m length and
2.25 m broad. It has 6 stairs. This portion has a main portal with jack arch and 1.4
m broad. It joins with a circular well, which is 3.40 m. in circumference (Plate
204). It is small in size, it has precarious existence. It is unprotected monuments.

@# Baoli= '

It is located on the north side of the Jal Mahal and southern side of Narnaul town
(Plate 205) in the residential complex of the Polytechnic College. It drives its
name from its connection with the College. Literary sources are silent about this
baoli.
The baoli is laid out in an east west direction, the well in the west and the
entrance in the east. The architectural structure has very simple. The stepped
corridor stands from a raised platform, which is 2’ above the ground level. Total
length of the monument is 93’ without well. The construction of the stepped
corridor tapers as it goes downwards and also lengthwise.
The first portion’s length is 46’, which start from platform. The main
portion is a double storey structure21 (Plate 206). The lower portion of the main

18 Ibid. 64.
19 Rodgers, Revised List, 70.
20 Dalip Singh, op. cit., 889.
21 Percy Brown, Indian Architecture: Islamic Period (Mumbai: D.B. Taraporevala Sons & Co. Pvt.
Ltd., 1997), Pl. IV.
Baolis, Tanks & Wells 147
gateway is cusped arch and other side arches are simple. Top portion of the main
gateway is also plane arch but both side arches are cusped type.22 This baoli has
three storeys, two storeys are under ground level and one storey is above
ground. First storey has a western side gateway and eastern side has a pavilion.
Second storey has made of three side arcade pavilion (Plate 207). It has also
cusped arches and at last third storey has a well. The well has octagonal in shape
(Plate 208). Architectural significant may have appears 17th century. In the
eastern side of the well, a wheel shaft has been adjusts. The depth of the well is
19.7 m from the parapet. It is made with stone, lime mortar and chhuna. It seems
that the density of this area was very high. It is unprotected monument and in a
neglected condition. The people used it for the garbage pit. It is in dire need of
maintenance.

@# ( Baoli

This baoli is situated in the Fort of Hansi (Plate 209). It is western side of the
baradari. It is believed locally to be associated with the provincial governors of
the Mughal period. The baoli is built of bricks and has a traditional layout with a
rectangular tank in the middle of a platform and a wall shaft at one end. The
platform slopes to drain rainwater towards the reservoir. A barrel vaulted arcade
surrounds the reservoir (Plate 210). Semi circular arches reinforce the walls of the
tank. It appears that there was once a pitched roof over the tank. The baoli may be
originally earlier in the date than the baradari but appears to have been
reconstructed during a later occupation of the fort.23 It is also protected
monument of Archaeological Survey of India.
Most of the baolis is described above were built during the Mughal period.
Although some baolis have been declared protected monuments by
Archaeological Survey of India and Haryana Archaeological Department, most
of them are in bad shape. Some of them are in utter ruin. All of them try for
batter care and preservation.

In earlier times, village communities in Haryana had a lot of expertise in


harvesting runoff rainwater. They built tanks, Johars, talabs, etc to preserve the
elixir of life. Tanks to well off communities and people in the sandy region, these
reservoirs made pucca or masonry tanks for storing water. Their exploited every
possible idea to design structures, which were people friendly, socially
acceptable and attractive. In the last four centuries, the people of Haryana in

22 Cusped arched mainly used in Shahjahan’s period.


23 M. Shokoohy, & N. H. Shokoohy. Hisar i Firuza (London: School of Oriental and African
Studies, 1988), 87 88.
148 Medieval Monuments in India
their villages and towns built magnificent masonry tanks24 some of them are still
extant (Map V).

*# Buwawalla Talao= $ <<

Outside the town of Jhajjar, on the Delhi Rohtak Road, is a huge tank located to
the extreme north eastern corner of the group of tombs (Plate 211). This tank is
square on plan with stepped entrances from the east, west and south is first
through a ramp upto a certain distance followed by steps upto the water level.
However the northern entrance is more elaborate. The tank is constructed about
2 m high from the water level by dressed (lateritic stone blocks) kankars whole
the rest is of lakhauri bricks and measuring 60 m by 67 m. It is locally called
Buwawalla Talao and is said to have been built by Kalal Khan, a macebearer of
emperor Jahangir, in 1035 A.H./1625 26 A.D.25 There were four wells within the
tank, on account of which the water in it never dries up. At present there is only
one well. There were two separate ghats for men and women to have a dip in.
Placing bricks make the flooring of the ramp in vertical manner. The
northern entrance has at centre only steps from top to bottom with another step
joining them from the east west side. At this junction, there are two huge
bastions. To the west of this main entrance is a ramp followed by steps, which
meet the cells of the upper storey. Another huge ramp towards its extreme west
starts from the same level and ends up tuning westwards to meet the cells and
platform of the lower storey. Such cells are seen on the north western and north
eastern corner. At the centre of the tank is a huge obelisk.

-# ' Talao= '

Anup Talao is located in close proximity to the Jal Mahal (Plate 212). The name of
its builder is not known and today it is referred to as either Anup Talao or Babaji
ka Talao. By its construction style and substance, it can be dated to post Shah
Jahan period. The Anup Talao borrows the water and pavilion theme of the Jal
Mahal. However here it is employed in the reverse, the focus being the talao with
pavilion overlooking it.26
The talao is in the form of a rectangular water tank. At the middle of each
side is a pillared pavilion that overlooks the water. The remains of the enclosure
wall of Bagh Aram i Kausar run along two sides. The tank edge has a moulded
profile with small semi octagonal projections into the water at intervals and steps
leading down to the water on east and west edges. The pavilions are a derivative
of the Shah Jahan type, comprising a pillared verandah flanked by walled

24 Ranbir Singh, “Magnificent masonry tanks of yore”, The Tribune, Chandigarh, 8 December
2001.
25 Objects of Antiquarian Interest in Punjab and its Dependencies, Lahore, 1875.
26 Jyoti & Janhwij Sharma, ‘Narnaul’ Architectural Legacy’, Marg., 53 (1), Mumbai, 2001, 57.
Baolis, Tanks & Wells 149
enclosures on either side. While three pavilions are flat roofed, the one on the
east has a combination of the banglādār roof over the verandah and crudely
formed onion domes over the walled enclosures.27 The wall surfaces of all four
pavilions are similarly articulated by a crude trefoil arch sunk in the plaster and
the verandah has baluster are finished in plaster with the decoration either in the
form of paintings on the plaster surface or coloured stucco moulding. However,
local people are used for bathing and washing clothes.

7# Bada Talao= '

This talao is now simply called the Bada Talao. A Chhota Talao lies near Takhat wali
baoli and is similar to Anup Talao (Plate 213). As the name implies, it has two
water tanks adjacent to each other with the pavilions disposed around the large
tank, the bada talao. The pavilions are again derivatives of Shah Jahan prototypes
as seen at Anup Talao. Here the east and west pavilions are flat roofed and the
north and south ones have a central banglādār roof flanked by onion domes. In
addition to the pavilions, octagonal pillared chhatrīs mark each corner of the talao.
The soffits are covered with paintings depicting floral themes. It is not a
protected monument. At present the local people are using it for washing clothes
and watering animals. It requires immediate conservation and preservation. So
we may save this historical reservoir.

># 6 + Talao=

It is situated to the east of the town (Plate 214). It has steps on the town side only,
just under the fort. The talao has been repaired from Municipal funds and still
needs repairs. Bidkhiyar made it in the time of Aurangzeb, a banker of Kaithal.
Balkishan added flight of steps. Raja Udey Singh and principal baniyas of the
place subsequently made other improvements.28 It is an unprotected tank.

?# Talao=

It is situated in the Hodal town and constructed about 400 years old (Plate 215). It
is 320’ long by 216’ broad. In reality it is of masonry, but it has no flights of steps.
It is supposed to have been built by some Binjara.29 This is not a protected
monument. Due to lack of necessary sources, it becomes difficult to know who
erected this tank and when. At present, this tank is full of water. Due to lack of
maintenance and awareness among government officials and people this
historical monument has lost its identity within few days.

27 Ibid.
28 Charles J. Rodgers, Revised List, 62.
29 Ibid, 83
150 Medieval Monuments in India
/# 2 2

This tank is situated in the south of the Taraori Sarai (Plate 216). It measures 139
m square, having its angles chamfered. A flight of five stairs all around is still
visible. The top step is 1.4 m broad whereas the others are just 0.7 m broad.
According to Dr. Subhash Parihar, in the middle of each side is marked with a
9.6 m broad ghat30 but at present there is no such type of structure extant. Due to
lack of necessary sources, it becomes difficult to know who erected this tank and
when. Most probably, it was constricted along with the nearby sarai and Rodgers
also attributed to Aurangzeb.31 At present, it is in bad shape and has lost its
original shape. Its all steps are covered with the soil. Most probably, the water
was quenched the thirst of travellers along the route in the sarai and at the same
time benefited the surrounding agricultural land. It is not a protected monument
under any agency. It is in a very bad state of preservation. It requires immediate
repair and protection.

The well is a vertical cylindrical shaft, which penetrate deep into the ground to
tap ground water. It is the most reliable source of water provision. Among the
name most frequently used to refer to the well is kupa (Sanskrit), Kuan (Hindi).
The depth of the well shaft depends on that of the water table.32 Most of the wells
are circular, square, octagonal and hexagonal. The well constructions of
philanthropists also came in here to make structures around these water sources.
Some of these structures, architecturally and historically important (Map VI) and
listed below:

*# Madrasa A =2

It is situated adjoining the southern wall of the Shaikh Chillie tomb in Thanesar
(Plate 217). It is a protected monument. This well is made of lakhauri bricks.
Cunningham called it ‘Otwala kua’ It is 12’ broad and 54’ deep.33 The diameter of
the well on measurement has been found to be 13’ 1”. This well was used for
watering the garden and running the fountain inside the madrasa. A whole set of
channels at the roof of the madrasa still exists. The lime coating, which they have,

30 Subhash Parihar, Land Transport in Mughal India: Agra Lahore Highway and Its Architectural
Remains (New Delhi: Aryan Books International, 2008), 177 178.
31 Charles J. Rodgers, Revised List, 58.
32 Julia A.B. Hegewald, Water Architecture in South Asia: A Study of Types, Development and
Meanings, (Leiden: Brill, 2002), 149.
33 Alexander Cunningham, Archaeology Survey of India Report, II, Varanasi, 1972, 223.
Baolis, Tanks & Wells 151
shows that they were used for carrying water as lime prevents seepage.34
However, most probably the well with structure was erected, when the madrasa
was being constructed.

-# ( A =

This well is situated west of the group of building (Plate 218). It is circular in
shape and the shaft laying about 4 m across. A carved stone slab is set across the
northern side of the top of the shaft. It is carved with serpentine garlands and
appears to be a lintel reused from an earlier building. Above the western side of
the shaft there are the remains of a pier or of a part of a wall, which indicate that
there was a device built above the wellhead for drawing water or possibly a
canopy to shade the shaft.35 Now it is a protected monument. Due to lack of any
inscription, it becomes difficult to know who erected this well. Most probably the
well was erected when the other building were being constructed. Its water may
have been used to construct the mosque and later on fulfilled the need of
travellers.

7# Minar A =6

The well is situated near the Bhiwani Khera Kos Minar. It is also not a protected
monument. Near this well a modern well is being made for the needs of
agriculture propose. It is the single well, which still exists near the Kos minar.
However, most probably this well was built at the time when Kos minar was
erected on the Mughal highway. At present, it is in bad shape. This historical
well is in dire need of maintenance.

># A =

It is a sarai well and situated outside the sarai in the eastern side near sarai
gateway (Plate 219). It is an unprotected monument. This well is made of
rubbles. The well is marked by a platform with 4’ broad and 3’ high. In its
eastern portion three steps approach the platform, measure 4’ wide each. The
water was used for the travellers and animals. However, most probably the well
with structure was erected, when the sarai was being constructed. It was made in
the Aurangzeb period.

34 Sanjay Subodh, ‘Medieval Remains in Thanesar: An Exploration in Medieval archaeology’,


Proceedings of Indian History Congress, 59th Session, 1998, 990.
35 M. Shokoohy & N. H. Shokoohy, op. cit., 93.
152 Medieval Monuments in India
?# 8' A = '

The well is situated in the Aram i Kausar Bagh of Shah Quli Khan. It is located
east of the Shah Quli Khan Tomb and south of the Islam Quli Khan tomb. It is
unprotected monument. It was made of rubbles and lakhauri bricks. Flight of
steps encircle it and is interrupted in each corner, with a slope. The Bagh Aram i
Kausar was filled with water of this well and thirst the needy men. Shah Quli
Khan constructed it during the period 1570 1599. Now it is in a neglected
condition. It is in agriculture land. Due to lack of proper maintenance this well
has been reduced into ruins. It cries for its preservation.

/# Chhattā A = '

This is the second well in Narnaul, situated in the Rai Mukand Das Chhattā. It is
located in the southern side of the Chhattā and surrounded with servant’s
quarters. It was made of rubble and covered with plaster. Its diameter measures
5’6” and 32’ deep. The water to the hamam as well as to the rest of the complex
was supplied from the well. The parapet of the well was built high so that by
sheer gravity it would feed water devices such as foundations and chutes.36 A
whole set of channels in the haveli still exist. Water was being cool of the
basement of the haveli in the hot session. Most probably the well was erected,
when the Chhattā was constructed in the Shah Jahan period. In a neglected state
of condition, this, too, cries for its preservation.
The wells, as also the other water structure, are, as indicated above, no
matter whether in the protected list of the governments or not in proper shape.
This freak with the valuable heritage should go once and for all. These structures
should be protected and preserved. They were once parts of life of our forebears
and should continue to remain in existence as part of us.

36 Subhash Parihar, ‘A Medieval Mansion,’ Marg, 47 (3), Mumbai, March 1996, 58.
)@

'

In the foregoing pages, 129 important monuments have been studied of different
types in Haryana. As many as 76 of these monuments are ‘the protected
monuments’, which are under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India,
Chandigarh Circle, and 13 are under the care of the Haryana Archaeology and
Museum Department. The remaining 40 monuments are unprotected. Fifty three
of these monuments have been studied here at length for the first time. In the
case of others, that is, the remaining 76 monuments, found many an inadequacy
and misrepresentation in the studies on them. We have endeavoured to remove
all inadequacies and misrepresentation to the best of our ability. We have also
discussed at length the present state of health of each monument so that
adequate action could be taken, wherever necessary, to keep these monuments fit
and fine.
The first set of monuments, which has studied here, are mosques (Chapter
3). They are 14 in all – seven protected and seven unprotected. Four of these
mosques are of the Tughlaq period and one of the Lodi periods. The remaining
nine mosques are of the Mughal period. We have described at length here, the
making of these mosques in all its aspects. By and large, mosques are copies of
the Delhi mosques. But that is not all. We have found an admixture of the local
element in these houses of God’. There are two mosques of the Lodi period at
Delhi. They are divided into five/three bays with single aisles surmounted by
three domes. This is, as noted elsewhere, different from what it actually is in
Delhi and at other places.
As for nine mosques of the Mughal period, it is surprising, that none of
the structures is a copy of Delhi. The first and the oldest Mughal mosque in
Haryana is at Panipat (1527). It is generally believed is built like an old Mughal
mosque standing at Sambhal (1526). On stricter examination, found a little
dissimilarity between the two mosques. Sambhal mosque has three bayed
double aisled side wings but Kabuli Bagh mosque has three bayed triple aisled
154 Medieval Monuments in India
side wings. This tradition, three bayed double aisled side wings, has been
noticed in the Jama Masjid at Kaithal. The three other mosques – Jama Masjid at
Meham, Jama Masjid at Fatehabad and Guriyan Mosque at Hansi of the
Humayun period have been built with three bayed single aisles. Interestingly,
the Abdul Wahid Mosque at Sadhaura, in Yamuna Nagar district, is the only
mosque in Haryana, which has bear local touch through and through its double
dome on its top and oblong domes on its either side. The mosque has
considerably low ceiling. Besides this mosque, there are three other mosques, i.e.
the Chini Masjid at Thanesar, Qazi Masjid at Sadhaura and Dana Sher Mosque at
Hisar which bear local touch. These are not impressed by any others influence
then.
In Chapter 4, important tombs have been studied. These are 20 in all. Six
of these tombs are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India, Chandigarh
Circle and seven are protected by the Haryana Archaeology and Museum
Department. The remaining seven are unprotected. These tombs represent all the
three types of tombs found in India: (I) Octagonal tombs at Narnaul and
Kurukshetra; (II) Square tombs at Panipat, Hisar, Sonipat, Narnaul, Hansi and
Palwal; and (III) Pillared tombs at Hansi and Kurukshetra. The tombs were
cast by the ranks of their patrons. In the broader plan, octagonal tombs belonged
to royalty, the square type for nobles and others of high rank, and the pillared
tombs were meant for the saints and the learned ones. Interestingly, in Haryana,
as detailed in the relevant Chapter (4), the cast and quality of the tombs do not
conform to the standard rules followed in Delhi and elsewhere. The nobles here
have made octagonal tombs for themselves and for saints. The nobles here have
made octagonal tombs of Shah Quli Khan at Narnaul and Shaikh Chehli at
Thanesar.
When monopoly of the royal families over construction of the octagonal
tombs ceased due to the changing of socio political circumstances, powerful
nobles participated actively in the erection of tombs. As a result Narnaul, Hansi,
Panipat, and Thanesar transformed to a vast necropolis. The square tombs
exceed in number than any other tomb types. Compared to the abundance of
square tombs, octagonal tombs are few in number. This concept traveled to Delhi
where Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq built this type of tomb for his son Zafar Khan. This
type of plan followed in Haryana, as found in Shah Quli Khan Tomb Narnaul
and Shaikh Chehli Tomb Thanesar in the Mughal period. The plans are different
from the octagonal type construction during the Lodi and Sur period. The
pillared tombs were erected on a site where saints spent their life time. The areas
around such tombs developed as a pilgrimage site and were preferred by their
disciples and followers as favorite place for erection of their own tombs.
The Haryana tombs differ, as indicated above, in from the tombs in Delhi
and elsewhere in terms of their quality and construction material. The tombs in
Delhi, for instance, are made of stone and bricks. But this rule is not always
followed in Haryana. In palaces where stone was available, as in case of Narnaul,
Conclusion 155
stone was used. But elsewhere stone, brick, kankar and mortar, which are easily
available in Haryana, were freely used. Bricks are used in the tombs because of
(I) non availability of quality rocks near the construction sites, and (II) speedy
and easy to handle craft of masonry as compared to stone work.
In Chapter 5 the route associated monuments have beendiscussed at
length like sarais, kos minars and bridges. The total numbers of the monuments
covered here are 62. Of these monuments 54 are protected monuments. The
Archaeological Survey of India, Chandigarh Circle and the Haryana
Archaeology and Museum Department look after them. Eight monuments are
unprotected. Three of the monuments covered here are new fiend. These are – (I)
Bal Mukand Das Sarai at Narnaul, (II) Saraikhera Sarai at Mewat and (III) a Kos
Minar at Kaithla Khurd have been recorded first time. As for the remaining 59
monuments, have, to it humbly, given a systematic detailed description of each
one of them earlier only some dozen important monuments were discussed at
some length. We have plotted all the 62 monuments on the map category wise,
showing the routes these are located on. The sarais covered here are seven in
number — two on the Delhi Ajmer Route and five on the Agra Delhi Lahore
Route. The sarais are of the Mughal period. These sarais are, no doubt, inspired
by the Persian sarais. But as was the case with other buildings seen above, the
local influence is also conspicuous by its presence in them. The Persian sarais are
ordinarily are of three types – square, rectangular and round. But here there are
no round structures. Generally, the Persian sarais have two gateways but here,
for instance, the Bal Mukand Sarai at Narnaul and Thanesar Sarai have only
single gateway. Sarais elsewhere have been constructed in bricks but Saraikhera
Sarai at Mewat is constructed in stone. There is also another difference in the
Saraikhera sarai. The sarais mosques are situated in the sarai’s courtyards but in
the Saraikhera sarai the mosque is located in front of the main gateway.
Besides sarais, 51 kos minars and four bridges, which still exist in Haryana
have been discussed at length in this Chapter. The two monuments are not
different in any way from the one found elsewhere. We could not find any
special feature be speaking of some local peculiarity in, their planning, building,
or in any other matter. Unfortunately, most of these monuments are laying in a
neglected condition. Local people have encroached them unauthorisedly,
knowing not that these monuments are our valuable heritage and it is our duty
to preserve and conserve them. I hope the message reaches the concerned quarts
before long and the precious pieces are saved.
In Chapter 6, 12 monuments have been studied forts, palaces, baradaris
and gardens. Six of these monuments are under the care of the ASI, and two are
looked after by the Haryana Archaeology and Museum Department. Four
monuments are unprotected. The oldest Firoz Shah Tughlaqs fort in Haryana is,
as detailed above, is built in 1354, at Hisar. This fort can be compared with the
madrasa of Firoz Shah at Haus i Khas, Delhi built on similar design. Another fort,
still standing in its majesty, is the Kotla fort in Mewat. This was built around the
156 Medieval Monuments in India
same as the earlier fort by Bahadur Nahar Mewati, the local chief of Mewat. The
influence of Rajasthan forts can be seen in this fort. This is the only hill fort in
Haryana state.
There are many beautiful palaces in Haryana. The Gujari Mahal at Hisar
and Bal Mukand Das Chatta at Narnaul are the best examples of the palace
architecture of their times. They are ground in plan, and huge in structure. The
buildings are imposing and powerful. Both monuments have underground
apartments (Tahkhanas) and hammams. The Gujari Mahal is built in the Tughlaq
style. The Chhattā bears Rajasthani and local architectural influences.
The Jal Mahal, Narnaul and the Rang Mahal, Buria are also impressive
monuments of the Mughal period. The monuments have graceful designs
painted in harmonious colours. Rang Mahal is the only building where animate
motifs on the walls are shown. There are two special monuments, which have
also been described at length here, one is the Baradari, a twelve door mansion at
Tosham, and a beautiful garden (Mughal Garden) at Pinjore built on the pattern
is the famous Mughal Garden (Shalimar) at Lahore. It is in very good condition,
is called the Yadavendra Garden now.
In Chapter 7, baoli, tank and well have been studied. Of monuments, only
two are protected monuments, the Meham Baoli by the Archaeological Survey of
India and Mirza Ali Jan ki Baoli, Narnaul by the Haryana Archaeology and
Museum Department. We have discovered here three baolis during the course of
study. These are the Pingwan Baoli, Pingwan, Polytechnic College Baoli, Narnaul
and Luhari Baoli Luhari, Jhajjar. Unlike the Gujarat baolis, which consist of three
parts: a circular or octagonal well, a series of galleries or floors, connected by
flights of steps descending to water level and a gateway pavilion, the baolis in
Haryana consist of two parts: one circular or octagonal well, second flights of
steps. The baolis in Delhi and Punjab are also of the same type. The baolis under
study are of the Mughal period except the Pingwan baoli, probably of the
Tughlaq period. The Meham Baoli is the best specimen of its class. Most of the
baolis are in disuse and are in pretty bad condition. They need a sympathetic
touch to exist. We have discussed this aspect in detailed in the Chapter. Besides
the baolis, six tanks and six wells have also been discussed at length here. They
exist, I have said, but only on their last legs, crying for help to avoid their
obliteration from the pages of earth.
These monuments are not only important for imparting information about
the past but they are our precious heritage. During my fieldtrips, I found that
most of these monuments are in very bad condition from preservation and
conservation points of view. Because of the ravages of time and vandalism, some
of the monuments are on the verge of being extinct. If the trend continues after
some time we will not find the traces of these monuments. These monuments
were once the part of our life. To neglect them, to neglecting a part of our life. We
shall be poorer without them.
+

Adhan (Azan) Call to prayer proclaimed by a muazzin five times a


day
Aisle Wings; portions on the sides of the nave; the division
between nave and aisles carrying arches
Alcove A vaulted or arched recess, made in a wall with
adequate depth, generally having a semi soffit
Animation Depiction of living beings in mural painting or such
architectural elements
Arcade Maqsurah; range of arches supported on piers or
pillars frequently used on the façade
Arch A self supporting structure composed of bricks or
stone blocks and capable of carrying a superimposed
load over an opening. The principle types of arch are:
horse shoe (true), cusped (engrailed), ogee and trefoil
arch in accordance with their shapes.
Arcuate Arched doorway, which holds the weight of terrace,
drum & it
Bagh Garden
Baoli Stepwell
Baradari Open detached pavilion in a compound or on terrace
with three arched openings on either side, there thus
being twelve openings
Basement Underground (tehkhanah)
Bastion Polygonal or semi circular platform made at the
corners of the enclosure wall, equal to the height of
wall for security purposes
Battlement Parapet of a wall having series of embrasures by
making merlon designs
Bhakti Faith, Devotion, Prayer
Bracket Made at the capitals of the pillars to support the lintel
usually ornamented
158 Medieval Monuments in India
Bulbous A dome rising like a bulb; a high dome, apparently
emphatic on elevation, supported on a tall cylindrical
drum (neck of the dome) or base
Calligraphy The art of writing or inscribing Arabic and Persian
scripts ornamentally
Capital The crowning feature of a column or pillar
Caravan A troop of travelers and merchants.
Chhajjā Overhanging eaves
Chhattā So called by the vaulted ceilings of its bays bearing
stalactite design like a chhattā.
Crypt A chamber entirely or partly underground; the
underground mortuary hall
Cupola A spherical roof placed like an inverted cup over a
circular, square or multi angular apartment like
dome; it is crowned by lotus petal a finial
Dado Lower portion of the wall, 4/5’ high from the floor
level, generally reserved for decoration purpose
Dargah The place where the mazar or maqbara of a saint is
situated having religious sanctity (annual urs is
celebrated)
Darwaza Gateway or doorway giving passage.
Diwan Minister in charge of imperial finance, jagir
assignments and revenue collection
Dome A convex roof, generally in hemispherical form,
erected over a square, octagonal or circular space in a
building on four arches or vaults, on the arcuate
system. Dome may be oval, semi circular,
conical, spherical, hemispherical, pointed, bulbous or
cylindrical.
Drum Base or neck of the dome on which is rest, which may
be cylindrical, octagonal or sixteen side.
Façade The face, front or frontal elevation of a building
Faujdar The commandant of a territory, in charge of law and
order.
Finial Crowing member of dome or cupola or pinnacle, also
known as kalasa, stupika
Floral Resembling the vegetation pattern; adopted or
stylized in a way so as to give in floral impression
Foliage Representation of leaves, flowers and branches for a
architectural ornamentation
Frieze The front portion above the arches but belong the
parapet.
Glossary 159
Fringe A continuous garland like series along the intrados or
an arch either of spear heads or of lotus buds
Gumbad Often used to mean a tomb.
Hammam Bath, bathroom or bath complex in an independent
building; closed on all sides except the main entrance
and ventilators with arrangement of water and
cooling or hot devices
Haveli Building complex for residence with suites around one ore
more open courts, often multi storeyed, with profuse stone
work.
Hauz Pool; tank
Idgah Place or complex reserved for two annual prayers
(namaz) on the eve of Idu’I Fitra and Idu’I Adha.
Imam The leader of the congregational prayers.
Intrados Inner curve of an arch; underside or soffit of an arch
Iwan Central main arched portal (entrance) with barrel
vaulted, it further contains a doorway in the centre.
Jharokha A window or balcony from which an emperor display
himself to his subjects or nobles
Khanqah A residential centre for religious study
Khwaja Literally meaning, “Master”. A title used for officials,
religious scholars and men of distinction
Kos A measure of length. In northern India a kos, during
the reign of Jahangir, was equal to about 4.17
kilometers
Kos Minar Tapering, massive conical towers or minars on each
kos on the main road of the Mughal Empire; like
modern milestones.
Lat Pillar
Lattice Perforated screen (Jālī) having geometrical or
arabesque designs.
Lintel A horizontal architectural member in a wood or stone
holding the weight of roof
Liwan prayer hall, e.g. sanctuary of a mosque
Madrasa College or a higher seat of learning in Islam;
theological college; maqtab is a school for children.
Maqbarah Tomb, mausoleum or sepulcher; the room or small
covered building (may be a pavilion) which contains
a grave; it may also be having subsidiary.
Masjid A mosque
Mazar Grave or tomb of a saint; building or a pillared
pavilion of the dargah containing the grave of a saint
160 Medieval Monuments in India
(Sufi); its significance is religious rather than
architectural.
Medallion Rosette or other circular motifs used generally on the
spandrels of the arches; a tablet on a mural surface
bearing an ornament
Merlon One of the solid or tooth likes portions of a battlement
between the embrasures (opening in the parapet of a
wall).
Mihrab Sunk/ recessed niche or arch in the centre of the
western wall (towards Ka’ba; if in India; also called as
Qibla wall)
Mimbar Pulpit; a high platform having series of steps (in
wood or stone) attached to the mihrab on left side for
the Imam to stand and lead the congregation (joint
namaz)
Minaret (Freestanding) tower
Monolithic Made of a single block of stone
Monument A commemorative structure/building of historical
importance
Motif The distinctive feature of element of a design
Niche Alā; alcove or arched space (blind or open) wall for
ornamentation
Parapet The top portion of a wall above the roof; a low wall or
railing around a roof to prevent people from falling
over the edge
Pavilion Covered verandah on the terrace covering staircases
around the dome (Basically to hide the height of
drum)
Phase of transition The stage where the square room is converted into an
octagonal to make a circular dome over it
Pier A mass of masonry, as distinct from column
Pinnacle A small turret like ornamental termination on the top
of pilasters
Portal The main central arched entrance (Iwān) containing
further an entrance doorway in the centre
Qiblah (qibla) Central nave on the western wall towards Mecca in
front of which the prayer (namāz) is performed
Qila Fort
Qutb The highest stage of sanctity among Muslim saints
Rubble masonry Composition of rough and irregular stones which are
not dressed or chiseled properly with hammer;
unhewn and unfinished stones for construction
Glossary 161
Sahn Open courtyard attached to a residential quarter or
mosque.
Spandrel The ornamental triangular space enclosed by the
curve of an arch; right and left outer space of an arch
Squinch An arch placed diagonally at internal angles of a
square r room in the phase of transition to convert the
room into an octagonal room for giving support to the
octagonal or circular drum and dome
Stalactite Muqarana; honeycombing
Tahkhanah Basement; underground chamber or vault
Talisman Magic figures or articles; drawings or sculptures of
symbolic demons or animals; Mangalachitra
Terrace A flat roof or open platform on a storey
Trabeate The style of architecture in which horizontal beams
and lintels are laid on the head of the entrance door to
hold the eight of the roof
Turrets Small tower or minarets without stairways inside
attached at the angles or quoins of the building
Vault An arched structure of masonry usually forming a
ceiling or roof; an arched covering in stone or brick
over any building, also used in the phase of transition
Vazu Ablution; to wash hands and face before performing
prayer (namāz) in a mosque; vazu tank is erected in the
courtyard
Verandah A roofed open gallery or portion attached to the
exterior of a building; an oblong corridor open on at
least one side, situated before a room or a set of
rooms.
162 Medieval Monuments in India
6% +

+ '

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164 Medieval Monuments in India
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( 2 & '

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