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Preferred Fiber

& Materials
Market Report

© Textile Exchange October 2022


Foreword
Materials Matter. The production, use, and disposal of In September 2022, Textile Exchange proposed the 2. Speed up the shift from conventional—particularly
fibers and materials have significant impacts on people following updated definition: "A raw fiber or material that fossil-based—to preferred fiber and materials.
and planet. delivers ongoing beneficial outcomes and impacts for
More than half of global growing fiber production is fossil-
climate, nature, and people through a holistic approach to
Textile Exchange's vision is not only to reduce these based. A transition to preferred sources is a must.
transforming raw fiber and material production systems."
negative impacts but to harness the potential benefits that The development of detailed assessment criteria is 3. Innovate and collaborate.
more sustainable global fiber and material production can scheduled for 2023. The definition will continue to evolve in Use the solutions that already exist—but also innovate and
have on people and the environment. line with the best available climate science and modeling. collaborate in order to accelerate progress and take the
Textile Exchange is a global non-profit that creates leaders bold actions needed to scale new emerging materials and
While the updated definition may be aspirational today,
in the preferred fiber and materials industry. Our Climate+ regenerative agriculture.
the direction of travel for materials to be considered
strategy aims to help the global textile industry achieve a “preferred” should be in-line with its underlying principles. 4. The best way to predict the future is to create it.
45% reduction in the emissions that come from producing Textile Exchange acknowledges that there are a variety of
fibers and raw materials by 2030 while also addressing soil The forecast data shared in the report is one of multiple
different approaches and that the continuum of options
health, biodiversity, and water. scenarios. While these scenarios may help the industry
evolves over time. The report provides examples of
think about potential future pathways and impacts, the
programs, initiatives, and products working towards these
Our Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report is a future can—and must be—influenced. We need to be part
goals.
comprehensive annual publication which provides unique of the solution to create a planet that is habitable well into
data and insights and helps the industry to measure Key takeaways from the report the future.
progress towards its goals. The report covers the market
for the key fibers and materials, including the conventional The report shows that it's unlikely for the textile industry’s 5. Everybody needs to be a leader.
ones and those referred to as “preferred”. fiber and materials market to stay within 1.5°C pathway
Significant acceleration in terms of climate action is
without reducing growth, a major acceleration of transition
needed in order to stay within the 1.5° pathway. Everybody
We want to note that our definition of "preferred" is to preferred fiber and materials, and innovation.
needs to be—and can be—part of the solution.
evolving. Textile Exchange historically defined a preferred
fiber or material as “one which results in improved The industry must:
environmental and/or social sustainability outcomes and
1. Rethink growth—the elephant in the room.
impacts compared to conventional production.”
Global fiber production reached an all-time high again in
But as the window to protect the 1.5°C pathway narrows, 2021 after a slight decline due to COVID-19 the previous
we’ve got to keep raising the bar. So, Textile Exchange is year. Given this growth of the overall fiber and materials
revisiting the definition to identify key indicators across market and its impacts, it's increasingly important to
climate, nature, animals, people, and governance that not rethink growth and decouple value creation from resource
only focus on reducing negative impacts but drive forward use.
measurable beneficial outcomes too.

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 2


Contents
Introduction4 Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers 36 Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide 80
Executive summary 5 Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool 37 Recycled polyamide 81
Background and the big picture 7 Virgin animal fibers: Mohair 43 Biobased polyamide 83
Virgin animal fibers: Cashmere 45 Commitments to preferred polyamide 84
The Global Fiber Market 8 Virgin animal fibers: Alpaca 48
The global fiber market trends 9 Virgin animal fibers: Other 49 Synthetic Fibers: Other Synthetic Fibers 85
The global fiber market 2021 10 Recycled wool 50 Other synthetics 86
The global fiber market 2021: Program overview 11 Commitments to preferred wool 51 Other recycled or biobased synthetics 87
Global recycled fiber market 12
Animal Fibers & Materials: Silk 52 Other Manmade Fibers & Materials 89
Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton 13 Silk53 Recycled fibers from blended textiles 90
Virgin cotton 14 Manmade protein fibers 93
Recycled cotton 21 Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather 54 CO2-based fibers 94
Commitments to preferred cotton 23 Virgin leather 55 Manmade non-fiber materials 95
Recycled leather 58
Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers 24 Commitments to preferred leather 59 Sustainability Standards & Traceability 97
Other plant-based fibers 25 Sustainability standards 98
Manmade Cellulosic Fibers 60 Traceability and transparency 100
Plant Fibers & Materials: Rubber 29 Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers 61 Impact Incentives 102
Rubber30 “Recycled” manmade cellulosic fibers 67 Textile Exchange programs 103
Commitments to preferred manmade cellulosic fibers 70
Animal Fibers & Materials: Down & Feathers 31 Supplier Mapping 104
Virgin down 32
Synthetic Fibers: Polyester 71 Supplier mapping 105
Recycled down 34 Recycled polyester 72
Commitments to preferred down 35 Biobased polyester 78 Methodology & Disclaimer 108
Commitments to preferred polyester 79 Methodology109
Report scope: Beyond apparel 111

Acknowledgements112

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 3


Introduction

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 4


Executive summary
The Global Fiber Market significant impact potential by transitioning to recycled
Polyester
and biobased polyamide. Most recycled polyamide is made
Global fiber production increased again to a record
The production volume of polyester fibers increased from from pre-consumer waste; some are from discarded fishing
113 million tonnes in 2021, after a slight decline due
57 million tonnes in 2020 to 61 million tonnes in 2021. nets and carpets. Increasing the use of post-consumer
to COVID-19 in 2020. In the last 20 years, global fiber
textiles is needed.
production has almost doubled from 58 million tonnes With a market share of 54% of the global total fiber
in 2000 to 113 million tonnes in 2021 and is expected to production in 2021, polyester continues to be the most The market share of biobased polyamide fibers in 2021
grow to 149 million tonnes in 2030 if business as usual widely produced fiber. The market share of recycled remained low at around 0.4% of the global polyamide
continues. Without rethinking untethered growth, the polyester fibers slightly increased from 14.7% in fiber market. Similar to the reasons for the low uptake
industry will not stay within the 1.5° pathway. 2020 to 14.8% in 2021. Due to low prices of fossil-based of biobased polyester, price, availability, and also
polyester, the recycled polyester market has been growing questions around the sustainability of biobased polyamide
The share of recycled fibers slightly increased from 8.4%
slowly in the past years. The 2025 Recycled Polyester counteracted the increase of the market.
in 2020 to 8.9% in 2021—mainly due to an increase in
Challenge was launched in 2021 by Textile Exchange and
bottle-based polyester fiber. Still, less than 1% of the Manmade Cellulosics
the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action to
global fiber market was from pre- and post-consumer
accelerate the recycled polyester market. Between its Production of manmade cellulosic fibers (MMCFs)
recycled textiles in 2021.
launch in April and December 2021, over 132 brands and including viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and cupro
While the industry has made commitments towards suppliers (including subsidiaries) have signed on to the increased from 6.5 million tonnes in 2020 to 7.2 million
the 1.5° pathway, the virgin fossil-based synthetic fiber Challenge and committed to jointly increasing the share tonnes in 2021. The market share of FSC- and/or PEFC-
volumes continue to increase. The production of fossil- of recycled polyester to 45% by 2025. Systems for textile- certified MMCFs increased from around 55-60% in 2020
based synthetics raised from 60 million tonnes in 2020 to to-textile recycling are in development but most recycled to around 60-65% of all MMCFs in 2021. In March 2022,
63 million tonnes in 2021. polyester is still made from plastic bottles. The interest FSC and PEFC announced their decision to suspend
in, and use of, ocean or ocean-bound plastic, is also Russian and Belarus wood certification. This equals
Cotton increasing. a ban of around 18% of all FSC- and/or PEFC-certified
The market share of "preferred" cotton—defined by forest.
The market share of biobased polyester fiber remained
a list of recognized programs—decreased from 27% very low at around 0.03% of the polyester fiber market. Key The market share of “recycled MMCFs” increased to an
of the total cotton production in 2019/20 to 24% in reasons are prices, availability, and questions around the estimated 0.5%. A lot of research and development is
2020/21 after years of growth. The reasons consist of a sustainability of currently available biobased polyester. ongoing, so the recycled MMCF volumes are expected
variety of factors, including weather variations, changes
to increase significantly in the following years. With new
in the Better Cotton program, market conditions and Polyamide (Nylon)
standards such as bluesign® and ZDHC introduced at the
socio-political challenges. In order to still meet a 50%
Polyamide had a market share of 5% of the global fiber pulp and fiber level, action is also likely to accelerate on
market share of preferred cotton by 2025—the goal of
market in 2021. Due to technical challenges and low these supply chain levels.
Textile Exchange's 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge—a
prices for fossil-based polyamide, the market share of
significant acceleration in the transition towards preferred
recycled polyamide is only 1.94% of all polyamide fiber.
programs is necessary. Also, continuous improvement in
As the second-most used synthetic fiber, polyamide offers
terms of the impacts of all cotton grown is needed.

CONTENTS Introduction PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 5


Executive summary
Wool Alpaca The Global Non-Fibrous Materials Market

Global wool fiber production was relatively unchanged Global alpaca fiber production was around 6,000 tonnes Leather
at around 1 million tonnes in 2021. Conventional wool in 2021. In April 2021, Textile Exchange launched its
Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS) with animal Leather—measured in terms of fresh hides of cattle,
accounts for the vast majority of the wool market but the
welfare and responsible land use criteria. The first sheep, goat, and buffalo, had a global production volume
market for non-mulesed and preferred wool programs is
groups in Peru have been certified to RAS, but the certified of around 12.5 million tonnes in 2021. Until recently, leather
increasing. The market share of wool produced according
alpaca fiber is already committed to specific supply chains. processing risks (tanning, chemical use) have been the
to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ, and
It will take time to build the volume of certified fiber in order main focus, but there is a growing interest in animal welfare,
SustainaWOOL GOLD and GREEN reached around 3% in
to make it available on the open market. deforestation, land use change (and associated biodiversity
2021. The RWS market share alone increased from 1.23%
loss), and climate change issues. Textile Exchange has
in 2020 to 2.62% in 2021 on a global average. In the key
Cashmere developed the Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA), which
apparel wool producing countries, tthe market shares
includes Impact Incentives, a tool that allows brands to
were as high as 30% in South Africa, 17% in Uruguay, Global cashmere production was around 26,344 tonnes directly support farmers that are addressing deforestation
and 15% in Argentina. Transitioning to wool programs of greasy fibers in 2021. The market share of the and conversion, as well as animal welfare at all cattle
with both animal welfare and responsible land use criteria cashmere programs—AVFS, Good Cashmere Standard®, farming levels. The first Leather Impact Incentives were
in place offers the potential to create positive impacts on Responsible Nomads, SFA Cashmere Standard, and traded between brands and Brazilian farmers in 2021.
animal welfare, land use, and biodiversity. Recycled wool WCS combined—significantly increased from 6.6% of all
had a market share of around 6% of the global total wool cashmere produced worldwide in 2020 to 17.4% in 2021. Rubber
market.
Down The global natural rubber production was around 15 million
Mohair tonnes in 2021. Natural rubber had an approximate market
Global down production volume was estimated at around share of 49% of the global total 31 million tonnes rubber
Global mohair fiber production in 2021 was around 4,320 0.57 million tonnes in 2021. Awareness of animal market in 2021. Synthetic rubber accounted with 16 million
tonnes of greasy fiber. The Responsible Mohair Standard welfare issues has led to successful growth in the use tonnes for 51% of the global rubber market in 2021. In 2021,
(RMS), covering both animal welfare and responsible of standards such as the Responsible Down Standard FSC- and PEFC-certified rubber reached a market share
land use criteria, was launched in March 2020. Its (RDS) with a market share of 3.2% and Downpass with of 2.7%.
market share reached 20% in 2020, its first year of a market share of around 1.2% of the total down market.
existence, and increased to 35% of all mohair produced While influencing change at the farm level is challenging, The number of certified sites increased sharply
worldwide in 2021. The RMS market share increased to the use of preferred down standards helps to reduce the
67% of the total mohair production in South Africa and 42% risks along the supply chain. The number of sites certified to Textile Exchange’s portfolio
of the total mohair production in Australia in 2021. of standards significantly increased from 29,699 in 2020 to
Other fibers 48,868 in 2021. This includes sites certified to the Global
Recycled Standard (GRS), Organic Content Standard
Other fibers—from hemp to elastane—are starting to gain (OCS), Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), Content Claim
the industry’s attention. The report highlights innovations Standard (CCS), Responsible Down Standard (RDS), and
from Pineapple Leaf Fibers (PALF) to CO2-based fibers. Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).

CONTENTS Introduction PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 6


Background and the big picture
At Textile Exchange, our goal is to help the industry against global goals but also to facilitate credible product Our vision is a new system that works in sync with nature,
achieve a 45% reduction in the GHG emissions that come level impact claims. At Textile Exchange we call this respecting planetary boundaries while protecting the
from producing fibers and raw materials by 2030. This is approach LCA+ and it is a key priority area of work for us. people that sustain it. To get there, we’re keeping our
known as Tier 4 of the supply chain. focus holistic and interconnected as we guide our global
Most importantly, we’ve got to rethink growth. Slowing community in this collective climate strategy.
This goal underpins our Climate+ strategy1. We’re calling down, making less, and producing with purpose.
it Climate+ because it goes beyond accounting for
greenhouse gas emissions. Instead, it is an interconnected
approach that swaps siloed solutions for interdependent
impact areas like soil health, water, and biodiversity. Getting to 45% in Tier 4: Apparel, home textiles and footwear
Our strategy is underpinned by three major areas of impact
and opportunity: BAU*: 410-420 Mt Reduce growth related
to new materials and
Slow growth
usual products
First, we’re accelerating the adoption of organic, ess as -80 Mt (1%)
Busin
regenerative, recycled, or other more responsible +
alternatives to conventional fibers. We want to make
Baseline: Materials Aggressive substitution
these materials the accessible default by providing global -300 Mt Aggressiv substitution (known solutions)
certifications and standards as well as industry-wide e substitu
tion
benchmarking for brands to measure and manage their -170-180 Mt +
sourcing strategies. 45%
path Innovation Circular & Fill the innovation gap
way
gap regenerative (unknown solutions)
Next, we need innovation and out-of-the-box thinking.
Tonnes CO2e

New business models, circular systems, and even =


innovative materials. This means collecting better data
-160-170 Mt 45%
and facilitating information sharing around how we can
scale existing solutions, like regenerative agriculture
and textile-to-textile recycling. We do this through our
industry reports and data-driven tools, while bringing
Fiber and material GHG emissions * BAU scenario assumes a 3% growth
leaders together via our round tables, conference, and
per year from 2019 to 2030
other platforms. Innovation and out of the box thinking
2019 2030
is also needed in terms of how we measure, understand
and communicate impact with a clear need to develop
methodologies that are able to capture the full range of Figure 1: Modeling of interventions needed in the apparel and footwear raw materials extraction phase in order to achieve 45%
ecosystem impacts to allow us to both track progress GHG impact reduction by 2030, as measured against a 2019 baseline.

1 Textile Exchange, “About Climate+.” https://textileexchange.org/about-us/climate/

CONTENTS Introduction PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 7


The Global Fiber Market

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 8


| Material Production Dashboard / Global
| Material Production Dashboard / Global
The global fiber market trends Global
Global

Global fiber production1 increased again to a record


Global fiber production (million tonnes) Global fiber producti
113 million tonnes in 2021, after a slight decline due to Global
Global fiber production (million fiber production (million tonnes)
tonnes)
1
Global fiber production (kilog
149
COVID-19 in 2020. In the last 20 years, the global fiber 149

production has almost doubled from 58 million tonnes 128


128 Polyester
Polyester
in 2000 to 113 million tonnes in 2021 and is expected to Polyamide (nylon)
109 Polyamide (nylon)
109
grow to 149 million tonnes in 2030 if business as usual 99 Synthetics,
Synthetics, otherother
99
continues. MMCF
MMCF
79
79 Cotton
Cotton
7373 9.2
The global fiber production per person increased from 8.4 Plant-based, otherother
8.4 8.48.5
Plant-based,
58 58 8.5
kilograms per person in 1975 to 14.3 kilograms per person 51 Wool
46 51 Wool
45 46
in 20212. 3438 38 45 Animal, other
Animal, other
34 Down
Down
Silk
The growth in fiber production has significant impacts on Silk
people and the planet. Awareness of the urgent need for
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025 2030
more responsible use of resources and decoupling growth
| Material Production Dashboard / Global 1975Source: 1980Textile1985Exchange 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025 2030
from resource consumption is growing; however, change is Source: Textile ExchangeSource:
1975 1980 1985
Textile
based onNote:
data Exchange
Textile
from ICAC, Exchange
FAO, IWTO, compilation
Mohairbased onAfrica,
South data from ICAC, FAO,
inserco, IWTO,
CIRFS, IVC,Mohair
MaiaSouth Africa, inserco,
Research, and its CIRFS, IVC, maia research, and its own modeling. Volumes of
own modelling
not yet happening at the scale and speed required.
certain minority fibers such as PTT, carbon, aramid, PLA, PBS, and PEF are not included. This report allocates the ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the
1975
Source: Textile 1980
Exchange base
Note: Textile Exchange
respectivecompilation
calendar yearbased
(e.g. on data from
2020/21 cottonICAC, FAO,volumes
production IWTO, to
Mohair South
the 2021 Africa,
calendar inserco, CIRFS,
year).MMCFs IVC, maia
and synthetic research,
fibers volumes and its staple
include own modeling. Volumes of
fiber and filament.
certain minority fibers such as PTT, carbon, aramid, PLA, PBS, and PEF are not included. This report allocates the ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the
Global
respective calendar year (e.g. 2020/21 cotton production volumes to the 2021 calendar year).MMCFs and synthetic fibers volumes include staple fiber and filament. Source: Textile Excha
Without rethinking growth, the industry will not stay
within the 1.5° pathway. Global fiber production Global fiber and
(million tonnes) production
% recycled (kilograms per person)2

Global fiber production (million tonnes) Global fiber production (kilograms per person)
Global fiber production (million tonnes) and % recycled 109 111
Textile Exchange's GHG emissions scenario model on 149
102 17.5
the Climate+ page in this report shows the importance of 99 111
128 15.6 109
102
Polyester
rethinking growth, transitioning to preferred fibers, and Polyamide (nylon) 99 14.0
109 13.4
innovation in order to limit global warming to 1.5° Celsius
99 Synthetics, other
MMCF 11.1 11.3
compared to pre-industrial levels. 79 Cotton
73
9.2 9.4
Plant-based, other
8.4 8.5 8.6 8.8
58
51 Wool
45 46
38 Animal, other
34
Down
Silk

1 Textile Exchange compilation based on data from ICAC, FAO, IWTO, Mohair South Africa,
6.89% 7.10% 7.20% 7.55%
inserco, CIRFS, IVC, Maia
1975Research,
1980 and 1985 its own
1990modelling.
1995 Volumes2000 of certain
2005 2010 minority
2015 2020 2025 2030
fibers such as PTT, carbon, aramid, PLA, PBS, and PEF are not included. Textile Exchange
Source: Textile Exchange 8
allocates the ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the respective calendar year (e.g. 1975 1980 198520161990 1995 2000 2005 2010
2017 2015 2020 2025 2030 2018 2019
Note:
7.55%
Textile Exchange compilation based on data from ICAC, FAO, IWTO, Mohair South Africa, inserco, CIRFS, IVC, maia research, and its own modeling. Volumes of
2020/21 cotton productioncertain
volumesminorityto the
fibers 2021
such calendar
as PTT, year).
carbon, aramid, MMCFs
PLA, PBS, and PEFand synthetic
are not fibers
included. This report allocates the ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the
respective calendar year (e.g. 2020/21 cotton production volumes to the 2021 calendar year).MMCFs and synthetic fibers volumes include staple fiber and filament. Source: Textile Exchange based on UN data and global data compilations 7.10%
6.89% 7.20%
volumes include staple fiber and filament. Please note that the percent market shares may Recycled Total (recycled + virgin) Recycled %
8
Source: Textile Exchange based on UN data and global data compilations
differ from other sources because our overview includes other plant fibers, other wool, down Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
and silk—all fibers which are often not included in other global statistics—and due to different 2016 2017 2018 2019
Global fiber In
ICAC cotton year allocations. production
general, all (million
globaltonnes)
figuresand are % recycled
estimates.
Recycled Total (recycled + virgin) Recycled %
2 Textile Exchange based on "UN Population Division, 2020. World Population Prospects 111 113
109 109
2019. Link." and volume data as specified in footnote (1). 102 Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
99

CONTENTS The Global Fiber Market PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 9
The global fiber market 2021
Synthetic fibers have dominated the fiber Cotton is the second most important
market since the mid-1990s, when they fiber in terms of volume. With about 24.7 Global fiber production in 2021 (in million tonnes)
overtook cotton volumes. With around 72 million tonnes, it had a market share

52+5+1246F
million tonnes of synthetic fibers, this fiber of approximately 22% of global fiber Plant fibers: ~31.3 (~28%) Animal fibers: ~1.8 (~1.62%)
category made up approximately 64% of the production in 2021. Read more here.
Cotton: ~24.7 (~22%) Wool (sheep): ~1.0 (~0.92%)
global fiber production in 2021. Read more
Other: ~ 6.7 (~5.9%) Other: ~0.69 (~0.71%)
here. Other plant-based fibers, including jute,
Down: ~0.57 (~0.51%)
flax, hemp, and others, had a market share
Silk: ~0.17 (~0.15%)
Polyester alone had a market share of of about 6%. Read more here.
Other fibers: ~0.05 (~0.05%)
around 54% of total global fiber production.
Approximately 60.5 million tonnes of Manmade cellulosics fibers (MMCFs), with
polyester were produced in 2021. Read more a global production volume of around 7.2
here. million tonnes, had a market share of around
6.4% in 2021. Read more here.
Polyamide—the second most used
synthetic fiber—accounted for 5.9 million Animal fibers had a market share of 1.6% in ~113
tonnes and approximately 5% of the global 2021. Read more here.
million
fiber market in 2021. Read more here.
Wool had a market share of around 1 %, tonnes
The other synthetics—polypropylene, with a global production volume of around 1
acrylics, and elastane—had a market share million tonnes. Read more here.
of 5.2%, with a combined production volume
Down and feathers had a market share of
of 5.8 million tonnes in 2021. Read more
around 0.5% of the global fiber market.
here.
Read more here.
Plant fibers, including cotton, jute, hemp,
Silk had a market share of around 0.2%.
flax, and others, had a combined market Manmade cellulosic fibers: ~7.2 (~6.4%) Synthetic fibers: ~72.2 (~64%)
Read more here.
share of around 28% of the global fiber Viscose: ~5.8 (~5.11%) Polyester: 60.5 (~54%)
market in 2021. Other: ~1.4 (~1.3%) Polyamide: ~5.9 (~5%)
Acetate: ~0.9 (~0.84%) Other: ~5.8 (~5.2%)
Lyocell: ~0.3 (~0.28%) Polypropylene: ~3.0 (~2.7%)
Modal: ~0.2 (~0.17%) Acrylics: ~1.7 (~1.5%)
Cupro: ~0.02 (~0.01%) Elastane: ~1.2 (~1.0%)

CONTENTS The Global Fiber Market PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 10
The global fiber market 2021: Program overview
Animal Manmade
Fibers Cellulosics
Plant Fibers (~28%) (~2%) (~6%) Synthetic Fibers (~64%)

Other plant Viscose/Acetate/Lyocell/ Other synthetic


Global Fibers1 Cotton (~22%) Polyester (~54%) Polyamide (~5%)
fibers (~6%) Modal/Cupro (~6%) fibers (~5%)2
~56% Fossil-based ~75% Conventional/ ~35-40% Conventional/unknown2 ~85% Fossil PET2 ~98% Fossil PA2 ~99.1% Fossil PP/
~27% Renewable unknown2 ~60-65% FSC/PEFC MMCFs ~15% Recycled PET ~2% Recycled PA AL/EL2
conventional/unknown2 ~24% ABR, BASF e3, Better ~0.5% Recycled MMCFs ~0.02% Biobased PET ~0.4% Biobased PA ~0.9% Recycled
~9% Renewable Cotton, Cleaner Cotton, PP/AL/EL2
recognized programs4 CmiA, Fairtrade, Fairtrade
Organic, ICPSS, ISCC,
~8% Recycled bottles
myBMP, Organic, REEL
<1% Recycled pre- or Cotton, ROC, USCTP
post-consumer textiles
~ 1% Recycled Cotton Wool (~1%) Mohair (~0.01%) Cashmere (~0.01%) Down (~0.5%) Other animal
and other non-bottle
feedstock fibers (0.1%)
~94% Conventional/ ~73% Conventional/ ~83% Conventional/ ~95% Conventional/
unknown2 unknown2 unknown2 unknown2
~3% RWS, ~35% RMS ~9% GCS ~3.1% RDS
113 million tonnes SustainaWOOL ~7% SFA ~1.2% Downpass
Global fiber production (in 2021) GREEN + GOLD, ZQ
~1.6% AVSF, RN ~1% Recycled Down
~6% Recycled Wool

1 This graph aims to inform the industry about the global total production volumes and the shares covered by different programs. Our definition of “Preferred” is currently being updated, and the assessment of the programs along a continuum of different levels of preferred is work-in-progress. For
more information see also our methodology chapter.
2 Conventional and unknown. This includes volumes of preferred or potentially preferred but unassessed programs for which data are not accessible or available.
3 Other synthetic fibers include polypropylene (PP), acrylics (AC), and elastane (EL).
4 Renewable recognized programs include here all the recognized programs listed in this chart apart from the recycled fibers.

CONTENTS The Global Fiber Market PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 11
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025 2030 128 15.6
Polyester
Polyamide (nylon) 14.0
Source: Textile Exchange 109 13.4
99 Synthetics, other
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995
11.3
2000 2005 2010 2015 20
Note: Textile Exchange compilation based on data from ICAC, FAO, IWTO, Mohair South Africa, inserco, CIRFS, IVC, maia research, and its own modeling. Volumes MMCF of 11.1
certain minority fibers such as PTT, carbon, aramid, PLA, PBS, and PEF are not included. This report allocates the
79 ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the
Cotton
respective calendar year (e.g. 2020/21 cotton production volumes to the 2021 calendar year).MMCFs and 73
synthetic fibers volumes include staple fiber and filament. Source: Textile9.2
Exchange based on9.4
UN data and global data compilations
Plant-based, other
8.4 8.5 8.6 8.8
58

Global recycled fiber market


51 Wool
45 46
38 Animal, other
34
Down
Silk
Global fiber production (million tonnes) and % recycled
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025 2030
111 113
Source: Textile Exchange 109 109
102 1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025 2030
99
Note: Textile Exchange compilation based on data from ICAC, FAO, IWTO, Mohair South Africa, inserco, CIRFS, IVC, maia research, and its own modeling. Volumes of
certain minority fibers such as PTT, carbon, aramid, PLA, PBS, and PEF are not included. This report allocates the ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the
Source: Textile Exchange based on UN data and global data compilations
Increasing the uptake of recycled fibers is a key strategy, respective calendar year (e.g. 2020/21 cotton production volumes to the 2021 calendar year).MMCFs and synthetic fibers volumes include staple fiber and filament.

with vast potential to reduce GHG emissions to mitigate Global fiber production (million tonnes) and % recycled
Global fiber production (million tonnes) and % recycled
climate change, prevent biodiversity loss, halt negative 111 113
109 109
impacts on soil health, and reduce water consumption. 99
102

In 2021, the overall uptake of recycled fibers compared to


the total fiber production was just around 8.5%—with 7.9%
recycled polyester from plastic bottles and only around
0.6% of all fibers included all other recycled fibers. Overall, 8.13% 8.45%
6.89% 7.10% 7.20% 7.55%
less than 1% of the global fiber market was from pre- and 6.89% 7.10% 7.20% 7.55% 8.13% 8.45%

8
8 9
9 10 10
post-consumer recycled textiles in 2021.
2016 2016 2017 2017 2018 2018 2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021
Recycled Total (recycled + virgin) Recycled %
Recycled Total (recycled + virgin) Recycled %
The market share of recycled fibers increased from 8.1% in Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation

Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
2020 to 8.5% in 2021, and the percentage of virgin fibers Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation

decreased from 91.9% in 2020 to 91.5% in 2021. In absolute


numbers, though, the virgin fiber production volume
increased from 100 million tonnes in 2020 to 103 million Market share of recycled fibers by type in 2021
tonnes in 2021. This includes an increase of virgin fossil-

15+85+F 6+94+F 2+98+F 2+98+F


based fibers from 59.7 million tonnes in 2020 to 63.1 million
Recycled polyester Recycled wool Recycled elastane Recycled polyamide
tonnes in 2021. This means in 2021 around 3.4 million
tonnes per year more fossil-based fibers were produced
than in 2020. To limit global warming to 1.5° Celsius, an
absolute reduction of GHG emissions by 45% by 2030
compared to the 2019 baseline is required.
~15% ~6% ~3% ~2%

Polyester had the highest recycled fiber percentage, with


around 15% in 2021. Around 99% of the recycled polyester

1+99+F 1+1+97F 1++F99 2++F98


was PET bottle-based. It is estimated that the market Recycled cotton Recycled down Recycled MMCF Recycled polypropylene
share for recycled elastane was around 3%, for recycled
polyamide around 2%, and for recycled polypropylene
around 0.2% in 2021.

The market shares for recycled cotton and recycled down ~1% ~1% ~0.5% ~0.2%
are estimated at roughly 1% of the total cotton and down
production volume in 2021.

Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation

CONTENTS The Global Fiber Market PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 12
Plant Fibers & Materials:

Plant Fibers & Materials

Cotton

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 13


| Material Production Dashboard / Plant
Virgin cotton
Global cotton production Cotton Other fibers Rubber

The market share of cotton covered by the of requirements, their approaches to Virgin cotton
recognized programs,1 also referred to as assurance, as well as degrees of traceability Global cotton fiber production (thousand tonnes and %)
"preferred cotton", decreased from 27% ofSelect Yearthroughout the supply chain. Preferred cotton fiber production (thousand tonnes and percent)

the total cotton production in 2019/20 to 2020/21  27,855 27,078 26,224 26,234 27,000 25,983 26,271
24,381
24% in 2020/21 after years of growth. 1,2 All
Preferred Better
cotton fiberCotton, including
production (thousand its
tonnes equivalents
and percent)
21,647
23,378

ABR, Preferred
CmiA,5,935 ICPSS, and myBMP, made up
This equals a decrease in global production around 19% of all cotton in 2020/21 and 27%
20% 24%
volume of cotton produced according to thus, the majority of24% the 24% of preferred 7% 8% 12% 16%
24%
3% 3%
these programs from 7.2 million tonnes in cotton in 2020/21. The Better Cotton
Conventional / Unknown 2011/12 2012/13 2013/14 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
18,446
2019/20 to 6 million tonnes in 2020/21.2 without equivalents accounted for around Preferred Conventional / Unknown Preferred %

There are a number of factors causing this Source:8%, TextileABR


Exchange forbased
around on ICAC 8%, CmiA
and cotton for owners
program around Source: Textile Exchange based on ICAC and cotton program owners
Note: This chart only includes virgin cotton and not recycled cotton Note: ThisTextile
Source: chart Exchange
only includesbased virgin cotton
on ICAC and
and not recycled
cotton programs. cotton
reduction, including weather variations, 3%, and MyBMP for below 1 % of all cotton Note: This chart only includes virgin cotton and not recycled cotton.
changes in the Better Cotton program, in 2020/21. With a market share of 19% of
market conditions, and socio-political all cotton,
Preferred Better Cotton
cotton production by program did not achieve
(thousand tonnes) its
challenges. target toBASF increase
e3 its market shareBetter including
Cotton Initiative Cleaner Cotton Cotton Made in Africa Fairtrade
Global cotton fiber production by program in 2020–21 1,2 18.00
equivalents to 30% of215the global cotton 6,205
1.01 579 593
630
677 16.52 16.91
16.15
18.10

The cotton programs included here align


5,628 15.69
0.91
production by 2020. 161
5,142
4,670
0.75
0.88

Total cotton:
496
24.4 million tonnes 4.71
4.33
14.15
6.30
5.92 5.65
6.33

with all virgin cotton options recognized by 0.61


0.70 402 4.35
3,262
Covered by the programs 320 below: 5.9 million tonnes (=24%)

the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge (see All other cotton programs together, 1,969
2,505
10.98 12.18
9.80
11.70 10.99 10.50 11.76
47

more on page “Commitments to Preferred including BASF 23 e3, Fairtrade, ICPSS, ISCC,
36

0
9
Fairtrade ≈ 18 (0.07%) 0.00 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21

Cotton”). organic
2014/15 , REEL cotton, and the
³ 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
2015/16 2016/17 2014/15USCTP,
2015/16 2016/17 had
2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 Fairtrade Organic Fairtrade Non-Organic

Organic ≈ 342 (1.40 %)


a combined market
Israel Cotton Production Standard System share of around 5 % of
ISCC certified myBMP Organic Cotton REEL
The cotton programs exist within a all cotton in 2020/21.6 CmiA ≈ 677 (2.78 %) 342
continuum and significantly vary in terms 229 187
137 133
148
240 Better
249 Cotton ≈ 4,670 (19.16 %)4 140
138 145
109 181
103
112 118 63
107
60 48
32 31 30
20
12
0 0 0 0 0 0 0
2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
1 The recognized programs for virgin cotton include BASF e3, Better Cotton, Cleaner Cotton (discontinued in March 2020), Cotton made in Africa
(CmiA), Fairtrade, Fairtrade organic, in-conversion cotton ("transitional" in US), Israel Cotton Production Standard System (ICPSS), International 6 12 325 0.21 5 672 1,935 145 1,968 6 187 215 148 311
Sustainability and Carbon Certification (ISCC), myBMP, organic, REEL Cotton,Regenerative
RegenerativeOrganic
OrganicCertified
Certified (ROC), Responsible BrazilianBrazilian
Responsible Cotton Cotton U.S. %
Cotton Trust Protocol 0.02 % 2.76 % 7.94%
0.03 % 0.04 1.33% 0.00% 0.59 % 8.08 % 0.02 % 0.77 % 0.88% 0.61 % 0.27 %
(ABR), and the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol (USCTP). The figures presented here are specific for virgin cotton and do not include recycled cotton. 311
0.21
Please see the chapter Recycled Cotton for more information on recycled cotton. In-conversion cotton is not included in the global trend data due2,027 2,334

IC

RE

BA

IS

U
Fa

Fa

RO

Cm

Cm

M
1,968

Be
O

BR

SC
rg

yB

CC
PS
i

tt

E
to lack of data for most years, but an estimate for 2020/21 is reported in the program-specific section.

SF
rt

rt

iA

iA
a

L
1,542

er
216

TP
M
ra

ra

S
ni

e3
P
d

C
c
2 Textile Exchange based on "ICAC, 2022. World Cotton Statistics May 2022" for the total virgin cotton production volumes and the cotton

rg
e

ot
(w
1,050

to
ni
/o
programs received by email. Overlaps of programs excluded. 832

rg
768

n
c
a

ov

(w
ni
0.04
3 This includes organic cotton certified to Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC), and supplier-specific programs such as bioRe.

er
c

/o
la

eq
0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0 0 0 0 0

ps
4 The Better Cotton, including equivalents, as reported by BCI. It slightly 2014/15
differs2015/16
from2016/17
the aggregate of the data provided 2014/15
by the2015/16
individual

.)
)
2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
programs because minor parts of their volumes are not accounted as Better Cotton equivalent and due to somewhat differing data collection and
reporting methodology.
Source: Textile Exchange based on program owners
in thousand tonnes and % of total cotton
5 Better Cotton, 2013. Better Cotton sets 2020 growth target. Link.

Top 10 preferred cotton countries by volume 2021 (thousand tonnes)


Map Detail
Brazil 1,969
CONTENTS Preferred cotton
Plant Fibers & Materials: across the globe 2021 (tonnes)
Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 14
India 1,071

United States 749


Preferred
Preferred
5,9355,935
Cotton
Cotton Other
Other
fibers
fibers Rubber
Rubber
24% 24%
3% 3%
Co
3% 3
Virgin
Virgin
cotton
cotton
Virgin cotton Conventional
Conventional
18,446
18,446
/ Unknown
/ Unknown 2011/12 2011/12 2012/13 201

A closer look at the cotton programs SelectSelect


Year Year Source:
Source:
Preferred Textile
Preferred
cottonTextile
Exchange
cotton Exchange
fiberfiber based
productionbased
on
production ICAC
on ICAC
(thousandandtonnes
cotton
(thousand andtonnes
cotton
program
program
and and owners
percent) owners
percent) Source:
Source:
TextileTextile
Exchange
Exchang
bas
Production Dashboard /2020/21
Plant
2020/21  
Note:Note:
This chart
This chart
only includes
27,855
27,855
only includes
virginvirgin
27,078
cottoncotton
27,078
and not
andrecycled
not recycled
26,224
26,224
cottoncotton
26,234
26,234 27,000
Note:Note:
27,000
This chart
This chart
25,983
only includes
25,983
only incl
26,271
26,2
The BASF e3 cotton production Preferred
Preferred
increasedcotton cotton
fiberfiber
production
production
Cotton made(thousand
(thousand tonnes
in Africa tonnesand and
(CmiA) percent)
percent)
production Select Year 23,378 23,378
21,647 21,647
from 160,754 tonnes in 2019/20 to 214,861 increased from 629,789 tonnes in 2019/20 Global cotton production by program
2020/21 (thousand tonnes)
Preferred
Preferred5,935 5,935
tonnes in 2020/21, equaling 6.75% of all US to 677,479 tonnes in 2020/21. This equaled Preferred
Preferred cotton cotton
productionproduction by program
by program (thousand(thousand
Preferred tonnes)
cotton tonnes)
fiber production (thousand tonnes and percent)
andCotton
0.88% of all cotton produced worldwide Other fibers 2.8 % of all cotton produced in 2020/21 Rubber BASF
BASFBASF e3e3 e3 Better Better
Better
Cotton Cotton Cotton
Initiative
Initiative 24%24% Cleaner 27% 27%
Clea C
Preferred 5,935 20%20%
in 2020/21. and around24% 38% 24% of all cotton production 7% 7% 215 2158% 8%
12% 12% 16% 16%
6,205 6,205
3% 3% 3% 3% 1.01
in Africa in 2020/21. Almost all (91%) of 5,142 5,142
5,628 5,628

Better Cotton production, including Virgin cotton


the CmiA produced in
Conventional
Conventional
2020/21
18,446
/ Unknown
18,446 was also
/ Unknown 2011/12 2011/12 2012/13 2012/13 2013/14
161 2013/14
161 2014/15
2014/15 2015/162015/16 2016/17 2016/17 2017/18
4,6702017/18
24% 4,670 2018/19 2018/19
0.75
2019/20
0.75
0.70
2019/
0.70
equivalents, decreased from around 6.2 accounted for as Better Cotton equivalent.
Preferred
Preferred Conventional
Conventional / Unknown
3,262 3,262
/ Unknown Preferred Preferred
% % 0.61 0.61

million tonnes in 2019/20 to Source: 4.7 Source:


million
TextileTextile
ExchangeExchange based based
on ICAC ontonnes,
ICAC
and cotton
andaround
cotton
programprogram ownersowners Source:
Source: Textile Textile
ExchangeExchange based basedon ICACon ICACand cotton
and cottonprogram program
2,505 2,505
owners owners Conventional / Unkn
With 4,993 60% of the 1,969 1,969
18,446
Note:Note:
This This
chart chart
only only
includes
includes
virginvirgin
cotton cotton
and not
and recycled
not recycled
cotton cotton Note: Note:
This This
chart chart
only only
includesincludes
47 virgin
47 virgin
cotton cotton
and not
and recycled
not recycledcotton cotton
tonnes in 2020/21. Reasons were acotton
Preferred variety fiber production (thousand tonnes and percent)
CmiA cotton produced in Tanzania was also 36 36
23 23
9 9
of factors, including  weather variations,
27,855 27,078 certified 26,224organic.26,234 27,000
0 0
26,271
Source: Textile Exchange based on ICAC and cotton program owners
25,983
2014/15 2014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21
onnes and percent) changes in the Better Cotton programme, 23,378 24,381 Note:2014/15
2014/15 This chart
2015/16 2016/17only
2015/16 2016/17 includes
2017/18 2017/18 virgin
2018/19 2018/19 cotton
2019/20 2019/20 and not2014/15
2020/21 2020/21 recycled
2014/15
2015/16 cotton
2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/1
21,647
market conditions and socio-political Preferred
Preferred cotton cotton Fairtrade
production
production bycotton
program
by programproduction
(thousand
(thousandincreased
tonnes)tonnes) from IsraelIsrael
Cotton Cotton
Production
Production Standard Standard System System ISCCISCC certified certified myBM m
challenges. Better Cotton (without 16,150 tonnes in 2019/20 to 18,097 tonnes
BASF BASF
e3 e3 Better Better
Cotton Cotton
Initiative
Initiative Cleaner
Cleaner Cleaner Cotton
Cotton Cotton 6 6
Cotton
Cotton CottonMade made
Made in
in Africa Africa
in Africa Fairtr F
equivalents) made up around 41% of in 2020/21, equaling 0.07% of all cotton 24% 27% Preferred cotton production by 148 program
148 (thousand tonnes 229
215 215 6,205 20%
6,205 137 137 630 133630 18.
12%organic16%5,628 5,628
133
all Better Cotton produced in 2020/21. produced in 2020/21. 8%
Fairtrade 1.01 1.01
24%
579 579 593 593 677 677
15.69 15.69
16.52 16.52
3% 7% 0.91 0.91
496 496BASF e3
109 109 138
Better 138
C
3% 5,142 5,142 0.88 0.88 14.15 14.15
The remaining 59% of Better Cotton cotton production,161 161 i.e. the production of 4,670 4,670
0.75 0.75 4.71 4.71
4.33 4.33 6.3

Conventional / Unknown 2011/12 2012/13 2013/14 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19
0.70
2019/20
0.70
2020/21
402 402 215 4.35 4.35

18,446 was produced according to the Better cotton that is certified to both, Fairtrade 3,262 3,262
0.61 0.61
320 320 60 60
Preferred Conventional
2,505 2,505 / Unknown Preferred %
Cotton equivalents ABR, Cotton made in and an organic standard, was
1,969 1,969
around 11,763 161 32 32 12.18 12.18
10.98 10.98 9.80 9.80
11.7

tton program owners


Africa, ICPSS, and myBMP. Source:
Better Textile
Cotton,Exchange 36 based
36
47 47on ICAC and cotton program owners
tonnes in 2020/21. Approximately 65% of 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00 00 0
3,262
ot recycled cotton Note: This chart9only9 includes virgin 23 23
cotton and not recycled cotton 2016/17 2016/17 2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/192019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/18
including equivalents, represented 0 around
0 all Fairtrade cotton in 2020/21 was also 0.00 0.00 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16
1,969
2,505
2015/16
2016/17 2016/1
2017

2014/152014/15
2015/1622015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/182017/18
2018/192018/19
2019/202019/20
2020/212020/21 Fairtrade
Fairtrade
OrganicOrgaF
19% of all cotton production in 2020/21. In certified to an organic standard. 2014/15
2014/15
2015/162015/16
2016/172016/17
2017/182017/18
2018/19
2018/19
2019/20
2019/20
2020/212020/21 2014/152014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/172016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/192018/19
2019/202019/20
2020/212020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/162015/16
2016/17 2016/17
36
2017/18 2017/18
472018/192018/19
23
2019/20
2019/20
2020/212020/21

2022, Better Cotton production in Pakistan Regenerative


Regenerative Organic Organic
CertifiedCertified Responsible
0 Responsible
9 Brazilian Brazilian
Cotton Cotton U.S. Cotton
U.S. Cotto Tru
Israel Israel
Cotton Cotton
Production
Production StandardStandard System System ISCCISCC certified
certified myBMP myBMP Organic Organic Cotton Cotton REE
m (thousandwas tonnes)
severely hit by the floods. BCI fears The Israel Cotton Production Standard 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17
0.21 0.21
Israel Cotton Production
2,027 2,027
2,334 2,334
1,968 1,968
that 70% of the Better Cotton production in System (ICPSS)—Israel 6 6 Cotton Production Fairtrade
342 342

Better Cotton Initiative Cleaner Cotton Cotton Made in137 Africa 148 148
229 229
Fairtrade Israel Cotton Standard
Production
1,542 1,542
System
Standard
249 249 System ISCC
Pakistan, a major6,205 production region, could and Marketing Board (ICB)'s new standard 137
133 133 240 240
630 138 138 18.00 145 145
18.10
109 109
have been destroyed
5,628 due to the floods. (developed in 2018)—was recognized579
1.01 as 593 677
15.69
16.52 16.91
16.15
1,050 1,050 181 181 6
5,142 0.91 0.88 103 103 768 832
768 832
14.15
Read more here. 4,670
0.75
equivalent to the Better Cotton Standard
496
4.71
4.33 6.30
5.92 5.65
6.33
112 112107 107
118 118
0.70 402 60 604.35 0.04 0.04 48 48
3,262
0.61 System (BCSS) in 2020 and 320 is thus 32 32 31 31 30 30
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 0 00 00 0020
12 12
1,969
Cleaner
2,505 Cotton production was 0 0 0 0 0included
0 0 for
0 the first time 0 in0 2020/21.
0 0 0 0 5,708 2014/15 12.18
10.982014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 11.70
9.80 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19
10.99 2018/19
2019/20 11.76
10.50 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/1

discontinued in March 2020, when the


2016/17
2016/172017/182017/18
tonnes
2018/192018/19
of
2019/20
ICPSS
2019/20
2020/21
cotton
2020/21
were
2014/15
2014/15
produced
2015/162015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/182017/18
2018/192018/19
2019/202019/20
2020/212020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16
2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/192018/19
2019/20
2019/20
2020/212020/21 2014/152014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/

funding for the regular farm program ended. in 2020/21, equaling 0.00 0.02% of all cotton Source: Source:
2014/15 Textile
2015/16Textile
Exchange
2016/17 Exchange
2017/18 based
2018/19based
on program
2019/20 on program
2020/21 owners owners 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Fairtrade Organic Fairtrade Non-Organic
2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
Regenerative
Regenerative produced
OrganicOrganic Certifiedin 2020/21. 2014/15 Responsible
2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
Certified
2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
Responsible Brazilian
Brazilian
Cotton Cotton U.S. U.S.Cotton Cotton TrustTrust Protocol
Protocol
2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2

311 311
ISCC certified myBMP 0.21 0.21 Organic Cotton
2,027 2,027
2,334 2,334
1,968 1,968
REEL
Regenerative Organic Certified Responsible
229
1,542 1,542 342 216 216
187 MapMap Detail
Detail
148 the standard owners, which we have received through email correspondence or from their websites.
The data is based on information from 249 0.21
137 240 140
133
The production volumes reported here include the total volume produced per standard including equivalents and overlaps with 1,050
other1,050
standards. Preferred
Preferred
cotton
cotton
across
across
the globe
the globe
2021 2021
(tonnes)
(tonnes)
138 145 832 832
109 768 768 181
103
0.04 0.04
112 118 63 1,050
107
0.00 60
0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 480 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 832
768
32 31 2019/20 30
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton
2014/15
2014/15
2015/16
2015/16
2016/17
2016/17
2017/18
2017/18
2018/19
2018/19
2019/20 2020/21
2020/21 2014/15
2014/15
2015/16
2015/16
2016/17
2016/17
2017/18
2017/18
2018/19
2018/19
2019/20
2019/20
2020/21
2020/21 2014/15
2014/15
2015/16
12
2015/16
2016/17 20 2017/18
2016/17
2017/18 2018/19 PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET0.04
2018/19
2019/20
2019/20
2020/21
2020/21 REPORT 15
0 0 0
2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Source:
Source:
Textile
Textile
Exchange
Exchange
based
based
on program
on program
owners
owners 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17
Preferred
Preferred
cotton cotton
fiber production
fiber production
(thousand
(thousand
tonnestonnes
and percent)
and percent) 24,381 24,381
2020/212020/21
21,647 21,647
23,378 23,378   27,855 27,855 27,078 2
Preferred
Preferred
cotton fiber
cottonproduction
fiber production
(thousand
(thousand
tonnes tonnes
and percent)
and percent)
Preferred
Preferred
5,935 5,935 Preferred
Preferred
cottoncotton
production
production
by program
by program
(thousand
(thousand
tonnes)
tonnes)
Preferred
Preferred
5,935 5,935
BASF e3
BASF e3 Better Cotton
Better Cotton
Initiative
Initiative 27% Cleaner
27%
24% Cleaner CottonCotton CottonCotto
Mad

Virgin cotton
20% 20% 24%
24% 24% 215 215 12% 12% 16% 16% 6,205 6,205
7% 7% 8% 8% 1.01 24% 24%
1.01
3% 3% 3% 3% 5,628 5,628 579
5,142 5,142 24% 24% 0.91 0.91
0.88 0.88 496 4

A closer look at the cotton programs


Conventional
Conventional
/ Unknown
/ Unknown 2011/12 2011/12 2012/13 2012/13
161
2013/14
161
2013/14 2014/15 2014/15 2015/16 2015/16 2016/17 2016/17
4,670 4,670
2017/18 2017/18 2018/19 2018/19 2019/20 2019/20 2020/21 2020/21 3%
0.75 0.75
0.70 0.70 3%
402 3%
402
18,446 18,446 0.61 0.61
PreferredPreferred
Conventional
Conventional
3,262/ Unknown
3,262/ Unknown
PreferredPreferred
% %
Conventional
Conventional
/ Unknown
/ Unknown 2011/12 320 320
2011/12 2012/13
2,505 2,505 18,446 18,446
Source:Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange
based onbased
ICAC onand
ICAC
cotton
and program
cotton program
ownersowners Source:Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange
based on based
ICAC onand
ICAC
cotton
and program
cotton
1,969program
owners
1,969 owners
Note: This
Note: International
chart
Thisonly
chart
includes Sustainability
only includes
virgin cotton
virgin and
cottonand
notand Carbon
recycled
not cotton cotton 0.77% of all cotton
recycled produced
Note: This
Note:
chart worldwide
Thisonly
chart
includes
36
47 in
only includes
36
47
virgin cotton
virgin and
cotton
notand
recycled
not recycled
cotton cotton
Certification (ISCC) cotton production 2020/21. 0
9
0
9
23 23 Source:Source: Global
Textile Exchange
Textile cotton
Exchange
based onproduction
based
ICACon and
ICAC byprogram
cotton
and program (thousand
cotton program
owners owners tonnes) Source:Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Excha
bas
Note: This
Note:
chart
This only
chart
includes
only includes
virgin cotton
virginand
cotton
not and
recycled
not recycled
cotton cotton 0.00
Note: This
0.00
Note:
chart
This
only
chart
includes
only in
increased from 132,626 tonnes in 2019/20 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017
201

to 148,158 tonnes in 2020/2021. This Regenerative Organic Certified™ (ROC)


PreferredPreferred
cottoncotton production
productionby program by program(thousand(thousandtonnes) tonnes)
cotton production increased Israel Cotton
Israel
from Cotton
Production
40 Production Standard Standard
SystemSystem ISCC
ISCCcertified
certified
ISCC certified myBMP myBMP
myBMP Organic Or
amount equaled 0.61 % of the global
cotton production tonnes in 2019/20 to 208 tonnes in 6 Preferred Preferred
cotton cotton
production production
by programby program (thousand (thousandtonnes) tonnes)
BASF BASF e3 and 46 % of the cotton
e3 Better Better
CottonCottonInitiative Initiative Cleaner Cleaner
CottonCotton 6 CottonCotton Made in Made
Africa in Africa Fairtrade
229 Fairtrade 229

production in Greece in All ISCC- 2020/21. This was less than 0.01% of all 148 148
2152020/21.
2 137 137
133 133
630 630
215 6,205 6,205
1.01 1.01 BASF e3BASF593 e3 593 677 677 Better Cotton
Better 18.00Cotton
Initiative
16.91 Initiative
18.00
16.91 145
18.10 18.10
CleanerCl C
certified cotton in 2020/21 was produced in 5,142 cotton5,628 produced
5,142
5,628 worldwide in 2020/21. 0.91 0.91
0.88 0.88
579
109
579
109 15.69
16.52
15.69 138
16.52
14.15
138
14.15
16.15 16.15 145
181
496 496 215 215 6.30 6.30 6,205 6.33
6,205 6.33
161 161 4,670 4,670 4.33 4.33
Greece. Since then, ROC further expanded
0.75 its 0.70
0.75
0.70 402 402
4.71 4.71
4.35 4.35
103
5.92
5,628
103
5.92
5.65
5,628 5.65
112 112 118
1.01
11
5,142 5,142 107 107
0.61 0.61
3,262 coverage in India and included cotton from
3,262 320 320 161 161 60 60 4,670 4,670
0.75 0.75
32 32 31 31 0.70 0.7
2,505 2,505
myBMP cotton production increased 1,969 from
1,969 Ecuador for the first time.0 00 00 00 0 0 00 00 0
10.98 12.18
10.98 3,26212.18 11.70
9.80 9.80 10.99
3,262
11.70 10.50 10.99 11.76 10.50 11.76 0.61 0.61
47 47
31,41136
tonnes
36
in 2019/20—which
23 23 was a huge 2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2,505
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
1,969
2014/152016/17
1,969
2,505
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/
201
0
9
0
9
drop compared to previous years due to a Responsible Brazilian Cotton—ABRAPA's 0.00 0.00 36
47
36
47 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21

2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 23 23 Fairtrade Organic
Fairtrade Organic
Fairtrade Non-Organic
Fairtrade Non-Organic
severe drought in Australia—to 144,528
2014/152016/17
Algodão
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
Brasileiro
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
Responsável
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
(ABR)—
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
0
92014/152016/17
0
2015/16
9 2017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21

Regenerative
RegenerativeOrganic Organic
Certified Certified Responsible Responsible Brazilian Brazilian
Cotton Cotton U.S. Cotton
U.S. Cotton
Trust Protocol
Trust Protocol
production decreased from 2.3 million 2014/15 2015/16
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16
Organic
2017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/18
cotton
2019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
REEL REEL
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016/17 2018/19
2017/18 2019/20
2018/19 2020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/1
2016
Israel Cotton
Israeltonnes
Cotton
Productionin 2020/21,
Production
Standard equaling
Standard
SystemSystem 0.60% of all ISCC certified ISCC certified myBMP myBMP Organic Organic
Cotton Cotton REEL 311 311
cotton produced worldwide in 2020/21. tonnes in 2019/20 to around 2.0 million 0.21 0.21 2,027 2,027 1,968
2,334 2,334 1,968
Israel Cotton
Israel Cotton
Production Production
Standard Standard
System342 System 342 ISCC certifiedISCC certified myBM
myBMP is also accounted as Better Cotton
6 6
tonnes in 2020/21. 148 148
This decline was caused 229 229
1,542 1,542 216
187
216
187
137 137 240 249
240 249 140 140

equivalent. by several factors including unfavourable


133 133
145 145
6 6
229
109 109 138 138 1,050 1,050 148 148
181 181
market conditions with low cotton prices (in 103 103 768 832
768 832 137 133137 133
109 109 138 138
Organic cotton production increased from combination with attractive 60corn and 60
soy 0.04 0.04 112 112
107
118
107
118
48 48
63 63

249,153 tonnes in 2019/20 to 342,265 prices), uncertainly about 0.00 the


32 0.00
32 COVID-19
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 310.00 31 0 00 30
00 0300
20
00
20
0
12 12 60 60
2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
0
tonnes
00
in
00
2020/21.
00
Organic
0
cotton 0
equaled
00 00 0
recovery as well as a non-favorable weather 2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21
32 32
2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21
a market share of 1.4% of all cotton forecast for the beginning of the season. 0 00 00 00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Source: Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchangebased on basedprogram on program
owners2016/17
owners2016/172017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016/17 2018/19
2017/18 2019/20
2018/19 2020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/
produced in 2020/21. The organic cotton This volume equaled a market share of 8%
Regenerative
Regenerative
production Organic Organic
Certified
volume Certified all IFOAM
includes Responsible
Responsible
Brazilian
of allBrazilian
CottonCotton
cotton grown in 2020/21. U.S. CottonU.S. Cotton
Trust Protocol
Trust Protocol
Family of Standards recognized organic 311 Regenerative
Regenerative RegenerativeOrganic
Organic Certified
Organic
Certified Certified Responsible
Responsible ResponsibleBrazilian Brazilian
Brazilian
Cotton Cotton
Cotton U.S. Cotton
byU.S. Cot
Truv
311
0.21 0.21 2,027 2,027 1,968
2,334 2,334 Top 10 Toppreferred
10 preferred
cotton cotton
countriescountries volumeby
In-conversion cotton
1,968
("transitional" in the
cotton which also includes CmiA organic, Map0.21 Map0.21 DetailDetail
Fairtrade organic, ROC, and supplier- US)1,542
1,542
is the cotton-in-conversion to organic. 216 216 2,027 2,027 1,968
2,334
Brazil
2,334
Brazil
1,968

1,050 293,204
1,050 ha of land Preferred
were Preferred
cotton
in-conversion cotton
across across
the
in globethe 2021
globe (tonnes)
2021 (tonnes) 1,542 1,542
specific programs such as bioRe®. 768
For832 more832
768 India India

information on organic cotton please see 2020/21. For more details, please have a 1,050 1,050
0.04 0.04 832 832 United States
United States
our0.00Organic Cotton Market Report 2022. look at the Organic Cotton Market Report 768 768
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 0 00 00 00 00 0
0.04 0.04
2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2022.
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
Branded
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
in-conversion
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
cotton
2014/152016/17
is
2015/162017/18
still
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21
Côte d'Ivoire Côte d'Ivoire 237 237
0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
REEL cotton production increased from rare. One example is the Pre Organic Cotton China China 153 2014/151532015/16
2014/15 2015/16
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016/17 2018/19
2017/18 2019/20
2018/19 2020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016
Source: 140,067
Source:
Textile Textile tonnes
Exchange basedin
Exchange on 2019/20
basedprogram to 186,589
on program
owners owners (POC) program initiated by Itochu and
Greece Greece 150 150
tonnes in 2020/21. This amount equaled kurkku. Source:Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange based on based
program on program
owners owners
Turkey Turkey 148 148
1 ISCC cotton volumes are collected by calendar year, not ICAC harvest year. The data from the 2021 calendar year have been allocated to theTop 10Top
preferred
10 preferred
cotton cotton
countries
countries
by volume
by volume
2021 (thousand
2021 (thousand
tonnes)tonnes) Cameroon Cameroon 146 146
Map Map DetailDetail
2020/21 ICAC harvest year, the 2020 calendar year data to the 2019/20 ICAC harvest year.

Australia 141
Australia 141
Map Map
1,969 1,969
DetailDetail
Brazil Brazil
Preferred
Preferred
cotton cotton
acrossacross
the globe
the 2021
globe(tonnes)
2021 (tonnes)
India India 1,071 1,071
©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
©
© 2022
TomTom, ©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
2022 Microsoft
TomTom, ©© 2022
Microsoft
©
Corporation,
2022 Microsoft
Microsoft Corporation,
Corporation,
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMap©
Corporation,
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMap
Chad 51
Chad 51
Preferred
Preferred
cotton across
cotton across
the globe
the2021
globe
(tonnes)
2021 (tonnes)
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 16
United States
United States 749 749
Source:
Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange
based on based
cottonon programs
cotton programs Source:
Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange
based on
based
cotton
on prog
cott
Côte d'Ivoire
Côte d'Ivoire 237 237
Preferred cotton production by program (thousand tonnes)

BASF e3 Better Cotton Initiative Cleaner Cotton Cotton Made in Africa Fairtrade
215 6,205 630 18.00 18.10
1.01 579 593 677 16.52 16.91

Virgin cotton
5,628 15.69 16.15
5,142 0.91 0.88 496 14.15
161 4.33 6.30 6.33
4,670 5.92
0.75 4.71 5.65
0.70 402 4.35
0.61

A closer look at the cotton programs


3,262 320
2,505 12.18
10.98 11.70 10.99 10.50 11.76
1,969 9.80
47
36
23
0 U.S.
9 Cotton Trust Protocol® cotton increased from 215,683 Upcoming cotton program changes 0.00 Key Milestones 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21

tonnes
2014/15 2015/16 in 2017/18
2016/17 2019/202018/19to 310,568
2019/20 2020/21 tonnes in 2020/21.
2014/15 This
2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 Fairtrade Organic Fairtrade Non-Organic
In January 2022, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF)—
equaled around 10% of all cotton produced in the US and
Israel Cotton the non-profit responsiblemyBMP
for CmiA—and Better Cotton
1.72%Production
of all cotton Standard
produced System worldwide in 2020/21. ISCCThecertified Organic Cotton
1996 IFOAM set first international organic
REEL
announced that the sale of CmiA as Better Cotton will be
environmental performance of U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol standard
342
6
discontinued at the end of 2022.
229 Both organizations will 187
cotton is measured and analyzed at the field-level using 137 148
240 249 140
133 continue to collaborate but focus on concrete projects that
Field to Market’s Fieldprint Platform and verified with 109 138
create lasting benefits.
145
1996
181 Sustainable Cotton Project (SCP) / Cleaner
Control Union Certifications. 103 Cotton founded
112 118 63
107
60 48

New and discontinued cotton programs Global


32
cotton production by31program 1997 MyBMP founded 12
30
20
0 0 0 0 0 0 0
2016/17 Cleaner
2017/18 Cotton
2018/19 was discontinued
2019/20 2020/21 in2014/15
March 2020,
2015/16 when
2016/17 2017/18the
2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 (thousand tonnes)
2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21

funding for the regular farm program ended. 2004 Fairtrade standard for seed cotton
established
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
Regenerative Organic Certified
The QAI Transitional Responsible
program was discontinued Brazilian Cotton
in 2020. U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
when NSF made the decision to discontinue textile 311 2005 BCI founded
0.21 2,027 2,334 1,968
certification.
1,542 216 2005 Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) founded
Field to Market continues to be used as a tool but the
1,050
decision was made to discontinue measuring 768 832 Field to
2009 ABRAPA’s sustainability program started
Market separately. Most 0.04 of the cotton using Field to

Market's Fieldprint Platform to measure and analyze


0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0 0 0 0 0
2010 CottonConnect’s REEL cotton program
environmental
2014/15 2015/16 performance
2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 on the field
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15is2015/16
also2016/17
enrolled
2017/18in
2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
started
the USCTP, as Field to Market enrolment is a condition of
Source: Textile Exchange
the USCTP. The based
cottonon program owners
that is part of Field to Market but 2010 ISCC started
not part of the USCTP is not otherwise certified or verified.

The ICPSS cotton standard was recognized as equivalent Tip: How to find out more about the different 2013 Field to Market launched
Top 10 preferred cotton countries by volume 2021 (thousand tonnes)
to the Better Cotton Standard System (BCSS) in 2020 and Map cotton programs.
Detail
is thus included for the first time in 2020/21. Brazil
2013 Bayer CropScience’s e3 cotton program 1,969
Preferred cotton across the globe 2021 (tonnes) To learn more about the specific programs, what (now BASF e3) launched
they cover, and how they differ, check
India out the 1,071
CottonUp Guide. 2018749Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)
United States
launched
Côte d'Ivoire 237

China 153 2019 U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol started


Greece 150

Turkey 148

Cameroon 146

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton


Australia 141 PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 17
©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
TomTom, ©
© 2022
2022 Microsoft
Microsoft Corporation,
©
Corporation,
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMap
Chad 51
Virgin cotton
Cotton production by program globally in 2020/21
Legend:1
Southern Europe Southern Asia

17+83
Total cotton

47+53 89+11
BANGLADESH INDIA PAKISTAN

3+97
>1 million t GREECE SPAIN

Total cotton
Total: 321,000 t
ISCC: 148,158 t (46%)
1+99 Total: 64,000 t
Organic: 26 t (0.04%)
Total: 35,000 t
REEL: 999 t (3%)
Total: 6,307,000 t
Better Cotton: 829,508 t (13%)
Total: 890,000 t
Better Cotton: 682,000 t (77%)
47% 0.04% 3% Conventional: 34,001 t (97%) 17% Organic: 130,849 t* (2%) *incl. ROC 83% REEL: 52,891 t (6%)
>300,000 t Organic: 1,827 t (0.6%) Conventional: 63,974 t (99.96%)
Conventional: 171,015 t (53%) Fairtrade: 15,097 t (0.24%)4 Organic: 1,925 t (0.22%)
REEL: 105,349 t (2%) Fairtrade: undisclosed2
Conventional: 5,236,010 t (83%) Conventional: 153,184 t (17%)
Total cotton
>100,000 t

Central Asia
Total cotton
< 100,000 t
KAZAKHSTAN

23+77
KYRGYZSTAN

Cotton programs (%)


Conventional cotton (%)
Total: 80,000 t
Organic: 14,893 t (19%)
100+0 Total: 12,000 t
Organic: 30,945 t (258%)
23% Better Cotton: 3,527 t (4%) 258% 5
Fairtrade: undisclosed2
Northern America Conventional: 61,580 t (77%)
Conventional: none

23+77
This chart lists only countries

24+76 1+99
where cotton is produced UNITED STATES TAJIKISTAN
according to one of the listed UZBEKISTAN
cotton programs. Total: 3,201,000 t Total: 111,000 t
Better Cotton: 13,539 t (12%) Total: 1,028,000 t
Big cotton producing countries SCTP: 310,568 t (10%)
23% Better Cotton: 217,469 t (7%) 24% Organic: 13,648 t (12%) Organic: 465 t (0.05%)
(>100,000t) with no cotton
BASF e3: 214,861 t (7%) Fairtrade: undisclosed 0.05% Conventional: 1,027,535 t (99.95%)
covered by the programs
are: Mexico, Turkmenistan,
Argentina, Myanmar, Sudan.
Organic: 5,821 t (0.2%)
Conventional: 2,452,281 t (77%) Africa Conventional: 83,813 t (2)

See next page

Latin America and the Caribbean Eastern and South-Eastern Asia Australia and New Zealand

79+21 2+98 25+75


BRAZIL PERU CHINA AUSTRALIA
Total: 2,494,000 t
ABR: 1,968,467 t
4+96 Total: 19,000 t
Organic: 694 t (4%)
Total: 5,910,000 t
Better Cotton: 92,430 t (1.6%)
Total: 562,000 t
MyBMP: 141,438 t (25%)
79% Organic: 70 t 4% Conventional: 18,306 t (96%) 2% Organic: 33,687 t (0.6%) 25% Conventional: 420,562 t (75%)
Conventional: 525,463 t REEL: 27,350 t (0.5%)
Conventional: 5,756,533 t (97%)

1 Cotton program-specific data were collected from the programs. Total cotton production data are from ICAC. Conventional cotton volumes were calculated by Textile Exchange. Better Cotton refers here to Better Cotton (excl. equivalents). Better Cotton equivalents are listed separately. Volumes in
metric tonnes (t).
2 Fairtrade data are not disclosed on a per-country level due to confidentiality reasons. The volume for all programs in this country does not include Fairtrade cotton and is thus actually slightly higher.
3 Cotton volume covered by the programs as share (%) of the country's total global cotton production volume.
4 The total Fairtrade cotton production in India was 15,097 tonnes in 2020/21, including around 9,813 tonnes of Fairtrade organic.
5 The percentage of a country’s cotton that is covered by the cotton programs is derived from the difference between Textile Exchange’s reported cotton programs production for that country and the overall cotton production of that country reported by ICAC. In some countries, there is a discrepancy
between the two. Both ICAC and Textile Exchange rely on secondary data. We are trying our best to understand more about this discrepancy. You can learn more about Textile Exchange’s data collection methodology here, and about the sources of ICAC’s cotton statistics here.

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 18
Virgin cotton
Cotton production by program in Africa in 2020/21
Legend:1

Total cotton
>1 million t Sub-Saharan Africa Northern Africa
EGYPT

3+97
5+95
Total cotton

100 100
>300,000 t BENIN BURKINA FASO CAMEROON Total: 58,000 t

Total: 317,000 t Total: 195,000 t Total: 140,000 t Better Cotton:1,221 t (2%)


3% Organic: 437 t (1%)
CmiA: 14,780 t (4.7%) CmiA: 196,300 t CmiA: 146,157 t (104%) Conventional: 56,342 t (97%)
Total cotton 5% 101%4 104%4
Organic: 1,893 t (0.6%) Organic: 647 t Conventional: none
>100,000 t
Conventional: 300,327 t (95%) Fairtrade: undisclosed2
Conventional: none

Total cotton

100+0
CHAD COTE D’IVOIRE ETHIOPIA

67+33 1+99
< 100,000 t
Total: 75,000 t Total: 215,000 t Total: 61,000 t
Cotton programs (%) CmiA: 50,533 t (67%) CmiA: 237,400 t (110%) Organic: 60 t (0.1%)
67% Conventional: 24,467 t (33%) 110% 4
Conventional: none 0.1% Conventional: 60,940 t (99.9%)
Conventional cotton (%)

This chart lists only countries MALI MOZAMBIQUE NIGERIA


where cotton is produced
according to one of the listed
cotton programs.
13+87 Total: 62,000 t
Better Cotton: 8,000 t (12.9%)
100 Total: 22,000 t
CmiA: 12,088 t (55%)
2+98 Total: 90,000 t
CmiA: 1,598 t (2%)
Big cotton producing countries 13% Organic: 63 t (0.1%) 100% Better Cotton: 9,898 t (45%) 2% Conventional: 88,402 t (98%)
(>100,000t) with no cotton Conventional: 53,937 t (87%) Conventional: 14 t (0.06%)
covered by the programs
are: Mexico, Turkmenistan,
Argentina, Myanmar, Sudan.

18+82
SENEGAL SOUTH AFRICA TANZANIA

0+100 Total: 8,000 t


Fairtrade: undisclosed
63+37 Total: 16,000 t
Better Cotton: 10,001 t (63%)
Total: 133,000 t
CmiA: 8,290t* (6%)
n/a Conventional: na 63% Conventional: 5,999 t (37%) 18% Organic: 20,932 t* (16%)
Conventional: 108,771 t (82%)
* incl. CmiA Organic

UGANDA ZAMBIA

10+90 Total: 43,000 t


Organic: 2,551 t (6%)
32+68 Total: 26,000 t
CmiA: 8,383 t (32%)
10% CmiA: 1,950 t (4.5%) 32% Conventional: 17,617 t (68%)
Fairtrade: undisclosed2
Conventional: 38,499 t (90%)

1 Cotton program-specific data were collected from the programs. Total cotton production data are from ICAC. Conventional cotton volumes were calculated by Textile Exchange. Better Cotton refers here to Better Cotton (excl. equivalents). Better Cotton equivalents are listed separately. Volumes in
metric tonnes (t).
2 Fairtrade data are not disclosed on a per-country level due to confidentiality reasons. The volume for all programs in this country does not include Fairtrade cotton and is thus actually slightly higher.
3 Cotton volume covered by the programs as share (%) of the country's total global cotton production volume.
4 The percentage of a country’s cotton that is covered by the cotton programs is derived from the difference between Textile Exchange’s reported cotton programs production for that country and the overall cotton production of that country reported by ICAC. In some countries, there is a discrepancy
between the two. Both ICAC and Textile Exchange rely on secondary data. We are trying our best to understand more about this discrepancy. You can learn more about Textile Exchange’s data collection methodology here, and about the sources of ICAC’s cotton statistics here.

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 19
Virgin cotton
Accelerating the transition to preferred cotton
Accelerating the transition to preferred cotton needs of laboratories who have passed the proficiency test to Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), founded in 2016,
the commitment, action, and collaboration of multiple conduct the GMO testing accordingly increased from 14 in is a multi-stakeholder initiative focused on creating a
stakeholders. 2020 to 21 in 2021. prosperous organic cotton sector which benefits everyone
from farmer to consumer. The number of farmers in the
Call to action Key organizations OCA network increased from around 20,000 in 2020/21
to around 80,000 in 2021/2022 according to their latest
Join the Organic Cotton Round Table: The Global Organic Cotton 2040, founded in 2016 and led by Forum for the
Farm Programme Impact Report launched in March 2022.
Cotton Round Table and the Regional Organic Cotton Future, is a platform that aims to accelerate progress
In 2021, OCA also began preparing the expansion of their
Round Tables bring together stakeholders to accelerate and maximize the impact of existing sustainable cotton
program to Pakistan.
the transition to organic cotton. initiatives, bringing together leading international brands
and retailers, sustainable cotton standards, and other Soil Health Institute (SHI), a US-based non-profit
Sign the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge: Signatories stakeholders across the value chain. In 2021, Cotton organization, launched the U.S. Regenerative Cotton Fund
commit to using 100% preferred cotton by 2025. The 2040 and Acclimatise published the new report “Physical in 2021 with the aim to sequester atmospheric carbon
progress is tracked through the Corporate Fiber and Climate Risk for Global Cotton Production” as well as a into soil carbon. SHI also initiated the “Healthy Soils for
Materials Benchmark program. “Cotton 2040 Climate Risk Explorer”. The analysis shows Sustainable Cotton” project to help US cotton farmers
that 50% of cotton-growing regions face high or very high increase their soil health.
Joint initiatives exposure to climate risk. Earlier, Cotton 2040 launched
The Sustainable Cotton Aligned Impacts Measurement CottonUpGuide.org that provides practical information and Textile Exchange, founded as Organic Exchange in 2002,
and Reporting Commitment signatories have worked resources to either start sourcing sustainable cotton or is a global non-profit that works closely with its members
together, convened by Cotton 2040 and The Delta Project, increase volumes. to drive industry transformation in preferred fibers,
to agree on a meaningful, credible and practically feasible integrity and standards, and responsible supply networks.
CottonConnect, founded in 2009, is an enterprise with a Flagship projects related to cotton include the Organic
set of shared core impact indicators and metrics. In
clear mission to transform the cotton industry for good. Cotton Market Report, the Global and Regional Organic
2021, the Better Cotton Initiative, Fairtrade, The Organic
To further investigate the benefit and opportunities Cotton Round Tables, the Sustainable Cotton Round Table,
Cotton Accelerator, and Textile Exchange as well as
for regenerative agriculture in cotton farming, for the and the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge commitment
the CottonConnect and the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
2020/2021 growing season, CottonConnect started a (progress measured through the Corporate Fiber and
piloted the impact and output indicators. Cotton 2040
Regenerative Agriculture and Carbon Sequestration Pilot Materials Benchmark program).
is convened by Forum for the Future with funding from
Project with 100 organic farmers in Madhya Pradesh, India.
Laudes Foundation and The Delta Project is delivered by
West Africa Organic and Fairtrade Coalition was launched
The Better Cotton Initiative with funding from the ISEAL GIZ, a service provider in the field of international at the International Cotton and Textile Conference (SICOT)
Innovations Fund. cooperation, initiated the project “Sustainability and Value in Koudougou, Burkina Faso in September 2018.
Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan” with the
The guidance document Screening of genetically modified
aim to increase the area of cotton grown in accordance
organisms (GMOs) in cotton and textiles (ISO IWA
with internationally recognized sustainability standards in For more information see also the pages on
32_2019), developed in 2019, is the result of a collaboration
Uzbekistan to 30,000 hectares by 2023, amongst other preferred cotton commitments, programs that
of GOTS, OCA and Textile Exchange with technical support
goals. include standards and certification, and the Textile
from Wageningen Food Safety Research. The number
Exchange’s Organic Cotton Market Report 2022.

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 20
Greece 150

Turkey 148

Cameroon 146

Australia 141

Recycled cotton ©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
TomTom, ©
© 2022
2022 Microsoft
Microsoft Corporation,
©
Corporation,
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMap
Chad 51
©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
TomTom, ©
© 2022
2022 Microsoft
Microsoft Corporation
©
Corporation
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMa

Market overview
Source: Textile Exchange based on cotton programs Source: Textile Exchange based on cotton programs
Source: Textile Exchange based on cotton programs

Global fiber market in 2021 Progress towards the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge
Recycled cotton had an estimated market share Please note that the data presented here refer to Global fiber market in 2021 Global fiber market in 2021
of approximately 1% of the total cotton production mechanically recycled cotton. Chemically recycled cotton
Cotton 24 (22%)
in 2021 but is expected to grow significantly in the is covered in the chapter on manmade cellulosics since the
coming years1. While approximately 25 million tonnes of result is a “manmade cellulosic,” not a “cotton.” Cotton 24 (22%)

virgin cotton were produced in 2021 (ICAC harvest year


2020/21)2, the production volume of recycled cotton is Key standards 113 27%
24% 2
roughly estimated at around 272 thousand tonnes3. million tonnes
Textile Exchange’s Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and 20%
113
An analysis by the Circular Fashion Partnership revealed its Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) are key third-party 16%
million tonnes 12%
the significant value in utilizing textile waste more standards used for recycled cotton. Read more on the page
efficiently, focusing on Bangladesh. Its research has found on Sustainability Standards. Other fibers 88 (78%)
that Bangladesh alone produced approximately 250
15/16 16/17 17/18 18/19 19/20 2
thousand tonnes of 100% pure pre-consumer cotton waste Source: Textile Exchange based on ICAC and further sources Other fibers 88 (78%)
Source : Textile Exchange based on ICAC, cotton program
in their Ready-Made Garments (RMG) and fabrics mills in
2019. The study estimates that factories in Bangladesh
Source:
Source: Textile Exchange Textile
based onExchange
ICAC andbased on ICAC
further and further sources
sources
could sell this 100% pre-consumer cotton waste to the
recycling market for up to 100 million USD. The Circular Recycled cotton
Fashion Partnership is a cross-sectorial project led by
Global Fashion Agenda, with partners Reverse Resources, Global cotton market in 2021
Global cotton market in 2021
the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Recycled 0.27 (1%) Recy
Association (BGMEA) and is supported by P4G, that aims
to achieve a long-term, scalable transition to a circular
Global cotton market in 2021
fashion system4.

25
million tonnes

Virgin 24.38 (99%)


1 Calculated by Textile Exchange based on sources in (2) & (3) below.
Source: Textile Exchange based on ICAC and maia research
2 ICAC, 2022. World Cotton Statistics May 2022. Note: For the virgin cotton production Source: Textile Exchange based on ICAC and Maia Research

volume in 2021, the ICAC harvest year data from the 2020/21 season are applied.
3 Maia Research, 2022. Global Recycled Cotton Market 2022 (customized report).
4 Circular Fashion Partnership, 15 June 2021—Press release. Link.
Virgin 24.38 (9

Source: Textile Exchange based on ICAC and maia research

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 21
Recycled cotton
A closer look at recycled cotton
Textile Exchange Member Action Takihyo, a Japanese company, launched Takihyo’s Circular
System in 2019. It includes two projects: a partnership with
Circular System's Texloop™ converts pre-consumer The New Denim Project (TNDP) that mechanically recycles
and post-consumer materials into high-value materials pre/post-consumer cotton materials into upcycled denim
through a purely mechanical and hydrothermal process. and cotton in Guatemala and the No Waste project that
An example of a Texloop material is a fabric consisting mechanically recycles pre/post-consumer natural fiber-
of 50% RCOT™ recycled cotton and 50% organic cotton. based materials in Thailand. Read more in the Supplier
Texloop™ “Lightest-Touch” processing preserves original Mapping.
fiber quality for the next generation of recycled materials.
Read more in the Supplier Mapping. The Movement, a start-up from The Netherlands, offers
100% traceable recycled cotton yarns made in Europe.
Geetanjali Woolens is a 40-year-old company that has
been recycling post-consumer used clothing for as many Usha Yarns offers RCS- and GRS-certified yarns made
years. It is Global Recycled Standard (GRS)-certified. Read with 60% pre-consumer recycled cotton and 40% post-
more in the Supplier Mapping. consumer recycled polyester. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.
Giotex is a US-based company offering recycled cotton
yarns and fabrics from pre-consumer feedstock. The WeTurn offers GRS-certified recycled cotton yarn
company is certified to the Global Recycled Standard produced in collaboration with a network of partner
(GRS) and Recycled Claim Standard (RCS). Read more in companies. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
the Supplier Mapping.

Recover offers GRS-certified recycled cotton fiber. Tip:


In 2021, Recover forged a strategic partnership with
Visit the Textile Exchange database for a list of
Story3 Capital and announced its plan to increase its
RCS- and/or GRS-certified suppliers.
annual production capacity to 350,000 tonnes of recycled
cotton fiber by 2026. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.

Säntis launched RCO100 in 2016. RCO100 products are


made from 100% pre-consumer and/or post-consumer
recycled cotton yarns without blending and RCS- or GRS-
certified. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.

Taishoboseki, based in Japan, offers recycled pre-


consumer cotton waste yarn under the brand name Raffy.
Read more in the Supplier Mapping.

Photo: Usha Yarns

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 22
Turkey 148

Cameroon 146

Commitments to preferred cotton


Australia 141
©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
TomTom, ©
© 2022
2022 Microsoft
Microsoft Corporation,
©
Corporation,
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMap
Chad 51

Examples
ed on cotton programs Source: Textile Exchange based on cotton programs

Overall industry goal


Progress towards the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge Target
The vision of Textile Exchange's 2025 Sustainable Cotton
Challenge is that more than 50% of the world’s cotton in Progress towards the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge Target
2025 is converted to more sustainable growing methods, Progress   Targets 50%
defined as grown according to a list of recognized 46%
Cotton
programs1. In the last five years, 24 (22%)share of
the market 43%
preferred cotton increased from 13% in 2015/16 to 24%
38%
in 2020/21. However, compared to the 27% market share
35%
in 2019/20, this is a decrease. Reasons include weather
variations, changes in the Better Cotton programme,
27%
113 and socio-political challenges. The
market conditions
24% 24%
industry thus
millionmust significantly accelerate its uptake
tonnes
20%
of preferred cotton in order to meet Challenge's goal.
The aim is also to drive continuous improvement across 16%
the programs. A focus will be the dissemination of 12%
best practices for soils and implementing regenerative
ers 88 (78%) practices that put carbon back into the soil to mitigate and
reduce the climate crisis.
15/16 16/17 17/18 18/19 19/20 20/21 21/22 22/23 23/24 24/25 25/26
Company
d on ICAC and commitments
further sources
Source : Textile Exchange based on ICAC, cotton programs, and 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge targets
162 companies (including subsidiaries) signed up to the Source: Textile Exchange based on ICAC, cotton programs, and 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge targets

2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge between its launch


in May 2017 and December 2021. By signing the pledge,
the companies committed to sourcing 100% of their
Call to action:
cotton from one or more of the recognized programs by
2025. For more information, have a look at the latest 2025
Recycled cotton
• Sign the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge
Sustainable Cotton Challenge Report. • Join the Organic Cotton Round Table and the Sustainable Cotton Round Table

Recycled 0.27 (1%)

1 Recognized programs include ABR, BASF e3, Better Cotton, Cleaner Cotton (discontinued
in 2020), Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade, Fairtrade Organic, In-Conversion Cotton
(Transitional in the US), ISCC, myBMP, Organic, Recycled cotton (that is certified to an
independently verifiable standard such as the Global Recycled Standard or the Recycled
Claim Standard), REEL Cotton, Regenerative Cotton, and the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.

25
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton million tonnes PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 23
Plant Fibers & Materials:

Plant Fibers & Materials

Other Plant-based Fibers

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 24


Other plant-based fibers
Flax, hemp, and beyond

51+19+164321F
Other plant-based fibers include a diversity of fibers
such as jute, coir, flax, hemp, sisal, abaca, kapok, Other plant-based fibers1
ramie, agave fibers, and henequen. It is estimated that
more than 8 million households are involved in the
production of these natural plant-based fibers.1 Jute   Coir   Flax fiber and tow   Hemp   Sisal
Abaca Kapok   Ramie   Agave   Other bast fibers
With a global production volume of around 6.7 million
6.7
tonnes, the market share of these other plant-based fibers million
was approximately 6% of the total global fiber production
| Material tonnes
Production Dashboard / Plant 8+ million households
volume in 2021.2
are estimated to be involved in the production of natural
Jute had the largest market share of all other plant-based plant-based fibers such as jute, coir, flax and hemp.1
fibers with around 50%.1 Similar to hemp, flax, and ramie, Cotton Other fibers Rubber
they are bast-fibers. Jute is used to make twine, ropes,
matting, and packaging materials, as well as home textiles | Material Production Dashboard / Plant
Other plant-based fiber production (million tonnes)
such as curtains and carpets.
6.62 6.68
Cotton Other fibers 6.26 Rubber
Coir had the second largest market share of other plant- 5.90
5.80 0.3 Other plant-based fiber production (million tonnes)
based fibers at approximately 20%.3 Coir is the fiber 0.3
Other plant-based fiber production (million tonnes) 5.21
extracted from the husks of coconuts. It is used to produce 0.4 6.62 6.68 1.1
0.4 0.4 6.26 0.7
home textiles such as floor mats, doormats, brushes, and 5.80 1.5 0.3
5.90 1.0
0.8 0.3
mattresses. 0.4
5.21
1.2 1.1
1.3
0.4 0.4 0.7
1.0 1.5 1.1 1.0 1.3
The global flax fiber and tow production in 2021 is 0.9 0.8 1.3
1.2
1.1 1.3
estimated at around 1 million tonnes.3 Processed flax, also 0.9 1.0

called linen, is used for a variety of products including 3.3 3.4


2.7 2.8 2.8 2.7 3.4
home textiles and apparel. 2.7 2.8 2.8
3.3
2.7

Hemp fiber and tow had an estimated global production 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021
2000 2005 2010 Hemp Manila 2015 2020 2021
volume of around 0.25 million tonnes in 2021.3 The bast- Jute Coir Flax (linen) Bast fibers, other Sisal Kapok Ramie Agave

Source: Textile Exchange based on FAOSTAT Jute Coir Flax (linen) Hemp Bast fibers, other Sisal Manila Kapok Ramie Agave
fiber hemp is used in various industries including home Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange
Source: Textile Exchange
Source: based
Textile on FAOSTAT
Exchange based on FAOSTAT
textiles and apparel. Note: 2021 numbers are 2021
Note: estimated
numbersby are
Textile Exchange
estimated by Textile Exchange

Further plant-based fibers include sisal, abaca, kapok,


ramie, agave, and henequen.
1 DNFI, 2017. Press release “Natural fibers production reaches 30 million tonnes” published on 29 July 2017. Link.
2 Textile Exchange based on FAOSTAT and total global production volumes compiled by Textile Exchange (see Global Fiber Market).
3 Textile Exchange based on FAOSTAT. 2021 figures were not available at report launch so were estimated similar to the 2020 figures. Please note that the data quality of these other plant-based
fibers is limited. Data adjustments are regularly made also for historical data and data gaps exist for some countries.

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 25
Other plant-based fibers
Hemp
Hemp fiber and tow had an estimated global production residues as feedstock and powered by 100% renewable
volume of around 254,692 tonnes in 20211. The market energy. Oil-seed hemp is one of the feedstocks that can
share of hemp is thus around 0.2% of the total fiber market be utilized for these fibers. The first Agraloop BioFibre™
in 2021. Hemp for fibers has mainly been grown in China, products hit the market in 2020 with French oilseed hemp
but there are also emerging initiatives in other countries, used as feedstock. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
including Europe and the US. The US Farm Bill, signed
into law in December 2018, makes the growing of hemp Ecovus is planning to develop large scale industrial hemp
in the US much easier as cannabis with less than 0.3% processing facilities in strategic locations across the US.
THC is now considered an agricultural crop rather than a
element6 Dynamics aims to have over 1 million acres of
controlled substance. Some advocates in the US, however,
industrial hemp will sequester vast amounts of carbon and
are pushing to increase that amount to 1%. The bast-fiber
feed 60 processing facilities that transform the crop into
hemp is used in various industries, including home textiles
essential value-added hemp-derived materials for major
and apparel.
paper/pulp, plastics, and animal feed manufacturers.
Research is underway into hemp and jute as feedstock
Hemp Black is working on a patented technology
for manmade cellulosics (see the Manmade Cellulosics
platforms to stabilize this carbon sequestered in hemp
Chapter) and also non-fiber materials (see Emerging Non-
plants permanently, and deliver innovative solutions to a
Fiber Materials chapter).
multitude of industries.

Textile Exchange Member Action Hemp Fortex is a leading supplier of hemp textiles. This
AltMat is developing fibers made from residues of food vertically integrated company uses hemp grown in China
and medicinal crops. First commercialized Alt fibers were and manufactures yarn, knitted, and woven fabrics made
created from the stalks of oilseed hemp. Read more in the from hemp.
Supplier Mapping.
Panda Biotech aims to process 130,000 tonnes of Texas-
Bear Fiber is developing a novel alkaline hemp grown industrial hemp per year into high-quality, textile
cottonization process and manufacturing platform to grade fiber and premium cellulose.
produce cotton-like hemp fiber that can be easily spun
Tung Ga offers REECO, RCS/GRS-certified recycled hemp
with and complement cotton. Read more in the Supplier
fiber. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
Mapping.
Winona's Hemp & Heritage Farm is working to find ways to
Circular Systems launched The Agraloop Bio-refinery 1.5
process their hemp for textile applications.
pilot facility in Belgium in January 2020, using food crop

1 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. Note: 2021 figures estimated similar to the 2020 figures
by Textile Exchange as 2021 figures were not yet available at the launch of this report. Please
note that the FAO data for hemp were recently updated and also backward adjusted. Data
gaps for some countries still exist and overall the data quality is limited. Photo: University of Kentucky

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 26
Other plant-based fibers
Flax
The global flax fiber and tow production in 2021 is in partnership with Kingdom, one of the largest linen
estimated at around 1 million tonnes1. The market share yarn manufacturers in the world. The NGO claims that
of flax is thus less than 1% of the global fiber market. adherence to the Code has increased both yields and farm
Processed flax, also called linen, is used for various profits while reducing environmental impacts.
products including home textiles and apparel.
Textile Exchange Member Action
Around 80–85% of the flax used for fibers is grown in
Europe. France is the largest producer of flax fibers. Circular Systems’ Agraloop Bio-refinery is currently
European flax is cultivated in a broad coastal band developing BioFibre™; fibers made entirely from food
stretching from northern France through Belgium and the crop residues. Oil-seed flax is one of the feedstocks that
Netherlands. Other key flax fiber-producing countries are can be utilized for their fibers. Read more in the Supplier
Belarus, Russia, Ukraine, and China.2 Mapping.

Tung Ga offers REECO, RCS/GRS-certified recycled flax


Standards
fiber. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
A small percentage of flax is certified organic. According
to estimates of the European Confederation of Linen and
Hemp (CELC), around 0.5% of the flax grown in Europe is
certified organic.2

European Flax® is CELC's traceability standard for flax


fiber grown in France, Belgium, and the Netherlands
and includes sustainable production provisions while
prohibiting the use of GMOs and requiring third-party
verification. MASTERS OF LINEN® is their registered mark
indicating linen 100% made in Europe, from field to fabric.

Cotton Connect's REEL Linen Code is a code of conduct


to support the more sustainable production of linen. The
Code requires farmers and processors to adopt more
sustainable practices when producing the flax fibers which
are spun into linen yarn. Building on the REEL Cotton
Code, Cotton Connect developed the REEL Linen Code

1 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. Note: 2021 figures estimated similar to the 2020 figures by Textile Exchange as 2021 figures were not
yet available at the launch of this report.
2 European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC). Email correspondence. Photo: Johan Neven

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 27
Other plant-based fibers
Nettle, kapok, and others
There is an emerging interest in using plant-based Himalayan Wild Fibers extracts textile fiber from a nettle
specialty fibers such as nettle, lotus, kapok, and others. plant that grows wild in the mountain forests of the
The use of agricultural residues is also gaining much Himalayas. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
attraction.
NextEvo offers textile-grade ready-to-spin Pineapple Leaf
Additional plant-based fibers used in the textile industry Fibers (PALF). The pineapple leaves are the by-product
include nettle, kapok, lotus, and others. The use of crop of the pineapple fruit industry and collected from the
residues, such as rice straw, pineapple leaves, banana major agricultural food processing companies and farmer
tree trunks, and sugar cane bark, is another emerging cooperatives in Southeast Asia. Read more in the Supplier
field. Please note that the companies listed below do Mapping.
not chemically dissolve the plants into pulp, nor do they
depolymerize them. If the same plants are dissolved into Spinnova is a Finnish company using a proprietary,
pulp, they are listed in the chapter on Manmade Cellulosic innovative mechanical approach to produce textile fiber
Fibers. If depolymerization is used to process them, they from micro-fibrillated cellulose (MFC). In 2020, Spinnova
are listed as biosynthetics. and the world’s largest wood pulp producer Suzano
launched the construction of their first commercial-scale
Textile Exchange Member Action SPINNOVA® fiber production facility, called Woodspin,
in Finland. The facility, producing SPINNOVA® fiber, is
AltMat is developing fibers made from residues of food and the first step towards­the ambition of scaling production
medicinal crops. The technology is applicable for various volume to 1 million tonnes of annual capacity by 2031.
kinds of biomass including stalks and leaves of fruit crops Construction is well underway in Jyväskylä, and the fiber is
like banana and pineapple, wild or medicinal crops like expected to be available at the end of 2022. Read more in
nettle, and industrial crops such as cotton. A combination the Supplier Mapping.
of mechanical, chemical, and microbial sciences is used
to transform the low-value materials into soft and strong Other
fibers. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
FLOCUS™ produces yarn blends and filling made with
Circular Systems’ Agraloop Bio-refinery is currently kapok. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
developing BioFibre™, fibers made entirely from food
crop residues. The Agraloop™ can utilize a range of
feedstocks—apart from oil-seed hemp and oil-seed flax—
for example, rice straw as well, as pineapple leaves, banana
tree trunks, and sugar cane bark can be used. Read more
in the Supplier Mapping.

Photo: Linda de Volder

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 28
Plant Fibers & Materials:

Plant Fibers & Materials

Rubber

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 29


Rubber | Material Production Dashboard / Pl

Cotton
The global natural rubber production was around 15 million FSC and PEFC are founding members—and together
tonnes in 20211. Natural rubber had a market share of with several other organizations—members of the Global Global natural rubber production by country in 2021
Global natural rubber production by country in 2021 Global rubber forest ar
around 49% of the global total 31 million tonnes rubber Platform for Sustainable Natural Rubber (GPSNR).
market in 2021. Synthetic rubber accounted with 15.7
Others 5.5 (37%) Thailand 4.7 (32%)
million tonnes for around 51% of the global rubber market Textile Exchange Member Action
in 20212. The market share of natural rubber increased
From the 15 companies that signed the FSC call to commit
from around 40% of the total rubber market in 2010 to
to sourcing deforestation-free, environmentally-conscious
around 50% in 2020, and slightly decreased again in 15
and socially responsible rubber, 11 companies are Textile
2021.1,2 million tonnes
Exchange members: Allbirds, Avocado, Clarks, H&M, Ikea,
The largest natural rubber producing countries in 2021 Inditex, Patagonia, The North Face, Timberland, Vans,
were Thailand (32%), Indonesia (23%), and Vietnam and the VF Corporation.6 The Textile Exchange members Conventio
Vietnam 1.2 (8%)
(8%)—in percentage compared to the global total rubber Allbirds, Clarks, and Patagonia are already using FSC- Indonesia 3.4 (23%)
FS

production.1 It is estimated that around 85% of the natural certified rubber.4 | Material Production Dashboard / Plant
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source: Textile Excha
rubber is produced by smallholders, involving around 10 Source: Textile
Note : Exchange based
2021 numbers onestimated
are FAO by Textile Exchange Note: 2021 numbers a
In 2021, the VF Corporation including Timberland, Vans Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange
million farmers3.
and The North Face, announced its new partnership with
| Material Production Dashboard / Plant Terra Genesis International in Thailand to build the fashion Cotton Other fibers Rubber
The market share of rubber forest certified to FSC and
PEFC was around 2.6% in 2021.1,4,5 industry’s “first regenerative rubber supply system”.7
Global rubber forest area by program in 2021
Cotton Other fibers Rubber Global natural rubber production by country in 2021 Global rubber forest area by program in 2021 Global natural ru
FSC-certified rubber forest had around 0.25 million
Global natural rubber production (in million tonnes) FSC 0.2M (2%)
hectares4 compared to a total of 12.8 million hectares of
Others 5.5 (37%) Thailand 4.7 (32%)
natural rubber production by country in 2021 Global rubber forest area by program in 2021
rubber forest1 and thus a market share of around 2% in Global natural rubber production (in million tonnes)

FSC 0.2M (2%) 14.84 14.84


2021. Thailand 4.7 (32%)
Others 5.5 (37%) 13.35

PEFC-certified rubber forest had with around 0.1 million 10.84

hectares a market share of around 0.8% of the total rubber 9.52 15 2.70% 7.09

forest 2.70%
15 in 2021. The first PEFC-certified rubber has been 7.09
million tonnes

million tonnes
available since 20215.
Conventional/unknown
Conventional/unknown Vietnam 1.2 (8%) 12.4M (97%)
Vietnam 1.2 (8%) 12.4M (97%)
1 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. 2021 data not yet available at launch and thus estimated Indonesia 3.4 (23%)
Indonesia 3.4 (23%)
FSC PEFC Conventional/unknown FSC PEFC Conventional/unknown
to be similar to 2020. 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 2000
: Textile Exchange based Source:
on FAO 2021. Synthetic rubber global production
2 Statista, Textile Exchange
2000-2020. based
Link. on FSC,
IRSG, PEFC and FAO
2022—IRS Source:
Source: Textile Textile
Exchange basedExchange
on FAO based on FAO Source: Textile Exchange based on FSC, PEFC and FAO Source: Textile E
2021 numbers are estimated
Groupby Textile Exchange
release latest industry outlook. Link. Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange
Note : 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numb
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source: Textile Exchange based on FSC, PEFC and FAO
3 FSC, 2019. Responsible Sourcing of Natural Rubber. Link.
Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange
4 FSC, 2022. Email correspondence.
5 PEFC, 2022. Email correspondence.
6 Textile Exchange member list as of 18 June 2022. 7 Timberland, 2021. Press Release. Link.

CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Rubber PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 30
Animal Fibers & Materials:

Animal Fibers & Materials

Down & Feathers

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 31


0
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
Global down production (thousandWool tonnes) Mohair & Cashmere Down PrS
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down
600
Silk 560 Leather 565 N
525 533
| Material Production Dashboard / Animal
Virgin down
500 489 Virgin down
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down by country 2021 D
Map Detail
Virgin down
Global down production (thousand tonnes) Preferred down market share in 2021
400

Production facts and figures


600
Hungary 691 (3.9%) 560 565
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Vietnam 525 Silk 533 Leather
500 489 709 (4.0%)
300
Ukraine 742 (4.2%)
Global down production (thousand tonnes) Preferred down market
400
share in 2021
Responsible Down Standard
The global down and feather production volume 600
3.2% of total down production 560 in 2021. The number of 565 200 Virgin down 18K (3%)
300

533
increased to around 565,103 tonnes1 in 2021, after a RDS-certified
489
525
farms was 8,107 4
in 2021, while the number Preferred down market share in 2021 200

17,876
500
Global down production (thousand tonnes) 100 Preferred down market share in 2021

slight decline due to COVID-19 in 2020. The Responsible of certified processing sites was 525 600
1,339. TheProduction
| Material RDS wasDashboard
560
533 / Animal
565
Responsible Down Standard
Tonnes18K (3%)
100

Conventiona
400 5

Down Standard (RDS) had a market share of 3.2%, while launched in 2014.
0
489 500 0 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Responsible Dow
2017 2018 2019 2020 Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia r

Downpass had a market share of 1.2% in 2021. 300 400

Wool Mohair & Cashmere


Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.

Down Silk
565K Leather
Note: This chart covers only virgin down a
S
The global Downpass-certified down production volume
300
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
tonnes
565K N
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down by country 2021 Downpass certified down by country 20
200 ChinaMap Detail
14,934 (83.5%)
The global down and feather market is highly fragmented, increased from 5,780 tonnes in 2020 to 6,958 tonnes
200
tonnes
Hungary 691 (3.9%)
Othe

with many small and medium producers. Around 85–90% 100 in 2021. This is equivalent to an estimated 1.2% of the Virgin down Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Poland 722 (8%)

Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified


Ukraine down
Ukraine 742 (4.2%)
China by country
Vietnam Hungary 2021
Poland Others D
100
Conventional/unknown Map DetailPortugal 793 (9%)
of the down comes from ducks; the remaining down comes total down production volume in 2021. The number of Global down production (thousand tonnes) Source: Textile Exchange Conventional/unknown
Preferred down market share in 2021542K (96%)
542K (96%) S
0 0
600 Responsible Down Standard
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 565 Hungary 691 (3.9%)
mainly from geese.1 Downpass-certified farms increased from 2021 7,942 in 2020
560
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 525 533
Responsible
Responsible DownStandard
Down Standard Downpass
17,876 Downpass Conventional/unknown
18K (3%) Conventional/unknown
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports Vietnam 709based
(4.0%)
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 489 Source: Textile Exchange on maia reports 2021 and standard owners
500
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down. Source:Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile based onbased
Exchange maia reports 2021 and2021
Tonnes
standard owners owners Russian Federation
only virgin downon
andMaia Reports and standard
tochart
Note: This 9,256
coversin
only2021. The
virgin down number
and not recycled down. of certified processing sites Note: This
Ukraine 742
Responsible Down Standard
Note: This chart
chart covers
(4.2%)
(RDS) number of sites
covers
not recycled down. 975 (11%)
D
chartonly virgin down anddown
not recycled
and not down.
China is the largest producer of down, responsible for Note: This covers only virgin recycled down
400

increased from 479 in 2020 to 577 in 2021. 8,107


Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified
300 down by country 2021
Map Detail Downpass certified down by country 2021
565K China 14,934 (83.5%)
around 60% of all ducks worldwide.2 Others 556 (6%)
tonnes
Taiwan 1,247 (13%)

Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down by200country 2021


Hungary 691 (3.9%) Downpass certified down by country 2021
Map
With 54% of all Downpass-certified farms located in Detail
China Ukraine Vietnam Hungary Poland Others

17,876
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Poland 722 (8%)
Source: Textile Exchange
Source: Textile Exchange based on Down
6,246
Concerns about the treatment of animals have led to the Number of Responsible Down Standard (RDS) sites
Ukraine
100 742 (4.2%)
Others 556 (6%)
Ukraine in 2021, the future supply may be negatively
Hungary 691 (3.9%)
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Responsible Down
5,806Tonnes
Poland
Standard
Conventional/unknown
Portugal 793 (9%)
722(RDS) 542K (96%)
(8%)number of sites Downpass number of sites
development of animal welfare standards for down. Key
0
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Responsible Down Standard Downpass Conventional/unknown
impacted due
Ukraine to the war. The RDS supply may also be
742 (4.2%) Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 and standard owners
8,107

standards include the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) 17,876 Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.6,958
negatively impacted due to this but its vast majority Tonnes Portugal
6,246 793
Russian (9%)
Federation
975 (11%)
tonnes Ukraine 4,963 (54%)

and Downpass3. These standards ensure that there is: (93%) was produced in Production
China andDashboard
only minor volumes (101
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down by country 2021 Downpass certified down by country 2021
5,806 6,592

| Material / Animal Map Detail China 14,934 (83.5%)

tonnes) in Ukraine in 2021. 17,876 Hungary 691 (3.9%)


Others 556 (6%)
6,958
• no live-plucking
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) China 14,934 (83.5%) Poland 722 (8%)
Taiwan 1,247 (13%)
Tonnes Russian Federation Ukraine 4,963 (54%)
Ukraine 742 (4.2%)
China Ukraine Vietnam tonnes
1,290 Poland
Hungary Others 1,339
1,041 975 (11%)
Wool Mohair & Cashmere
China Ukraine Vietnam Hungary Poland
Down
Others
Source: TextileSilk
Exchange Portugal 793 (9%)
Leather
• no force-feeding Source: Textile Exchange 1,041
Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass
1,290 1,339
S
412
17,876 6,958
• broader animal welfare (depending on standard) Tonnes 2019 2020
2019 Russian Federation 2020 Ukraine 4,963 (54%) 2021 2021 2019

Global down production (thousand tonnes)


tonnes
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) number of sites Downpass number of sites 975 (11%) Number of farms Number of processing sites
China 14,934 (83.5%)
Virgin down Responsible Down Standard Taiwan
(RDS) number
Number
1,247 of of
(13%) sites Number of processing sites
farms
Numbe
D
8,107 Source: Textile Exchange 9,256 Source: Textile Exchange based on Do
Source: Textile Exchange
Multi-tier cage farming, increasingly used in China for Global down production
China (thousand
Ukraine tonnes)
Vietnam Hungary Poland Others Preferred
China 14,934down Source: Textile Exchange
(83.5%)market share in 2021
Taiwan 1,247 (13%)
7,942
8,107

ducks, is also prohibited in RDS as the animal welfare


600
Source: Textile Exchange
6,246 560
5,806
565
18K (3%)
Responsible Down Standard
Recycled down
525 533China Ukraine Vietnam Hungary Poland Others Source: Textile
6,592Exchange based on Downpass
500 489 Source: Textile Exchange Recycled down market share 2021
outcomes described by RDS cannot be delivered by these 6,246
Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass

400 5,806
Number of Downpass sites Recycled
Recycled 5K (1%)

systems. China is the largest producer of RDS certified Responsible Down Standard (RDS) number of sites Responsible Down Standard (RDS) number of sites Downpass number of sites
Downpass number of sites
300

8,107
8,107 565K
Recycled down market share 2021
9,256
9,256
down and this trend may have an impact on the availability 200 1,290 1,339
tonnes
7,942
1,041
Re
of RDS-certified down in the future. 100
6,246
5,806 6,592 412 7,942 479 577
571K
6,246 2019 2020 2021 Conventional/unknown tonnes
5,806 542K (96%) 2019 2020 2021
0 6,592
Number of farms
2020 Number of processing sites
RDS-certified down production volume increased from 2017 2018
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
2019 2021 Responsible Down Standard
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 and standard owners
Downpass Number of farms
Conventional/unknown

Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass


Number of processing sites

Source: Textile Exchange


Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down. 1,290 1,339
16,022 tonnes in 2020 to 17,876 tonnes in 2021, equaling 1,290
1,041
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
1,339
Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research 1,041

Recycled down
Virgin 565K (99%)
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down by country 2021 Downpass certified down by country 2021 412 479 577
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down Map Detail
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
2019 2020 2019
2021 2019 2020
2020 2021 2021
571K
Others 556 (6%)
Hungary down
Recycled 691 (3.9%)
market share 2021
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Number of farms Number of processing sites Poland 722 (8%) Number of farms Number of processing sites
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Down and Feather Market Report 2022. Customized report. Recycled 5K Number of farms
(1%) Textile Exchange Number of processing sites
Ukraine 742 (4.2%) Source: Textile Exchange
1,290 1,339 Source: based on Downpass tonnes
1,041 Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass
2 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. Note: 2021 figures estimated similar to the 2020 figures Portugal 793 (9%)
Source: Textile Exchange
479 577
by Textile Exchange as 2021 figures were not yet available at the launch of this report. Recycled412
down
17,876 6,958
3 The Global Traceable Down Standard (TDS) was withdrawn in 2020 and is thus no longer 2019 2020
Recycled
Tonnesdown market share 2021 2021 Russian Federation 2019 tonnes Ukraine 4,963 (54%) 2020 2021

Recycled
975 (11%)
covered in this report. Number
4 This includes a total of 7 farmofareas
farms(more
Number
thanof8,342,003
processing sites
small farms). Recycled 5K (1%) Number of farms Number of processing sites
571K
Source: Textile Exchange Source:
tonnes Textile Exchange based on Downpass
China 14,934 (83.5%)
Taiwan 1,247 (13%)
Recycled down market share 2021 Virgin 565K (99%)
China Ukraine Vietnam Hungary Poland Others
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 Re
RecycledPREFERRED
down571K FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT
Source: Textile Exchange
Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Down & Feathers tonnes 32


Responsible Down Standard (RDS) number of sites Downpass number
Virginof565K
sites(99%)
Recycled down market share 2021 8,107 9,256
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
Recycled 5K (1%)
7,942
Virgin down

Global down production (thousand tonnes) Preferred down market share in 2021
600 Responsible Down Standard
560 565
18K (3%)
525 533

Virgin down
500 489

400
Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred down.

300
Directory: Where to find preferred down across the globe 565K
Check out the Textile Exchange database for Responsible Down Standard
tonnes (RDS) certified down suppliers or contact Downpass for a list of Downpass
al certified suppliers.
200

Around 24,834 tonnes1 of preferred down were produced on 17,363 farms1 in 15 countries in
100 2021. Major production regions for preferred down are China and Eastern Europe, including
Conventional/unknown
0
Poland and Ukraine. The war in Ukraine may negatively impact supply in future years. 542K (96%)

Down
Source:
2017 2018
Silk
Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
2019 2020
Leather 2021 Responsible Down Standard Downpass Conventional/unknown
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 and standard owners
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down Eastern Europe
Western Europe
rginResponsible
down Down Standard (RDS) certifiedbydown
country
by country2021
2021 Downpass certified down by country 2021
Map Detail HUNGRARY
IRELAND FRANCE BULGARIA POLAND
Others 556 (6%)
Hungary 691 (3.9%) RDS: 691 tonnes
Preferred down market share in 2021 Downpass: n.a. RDS: 4 tonnes RDS: 21 tonnes RDS: 317 tonnes
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Poland 722 (8%)
Responsible Down Standard Downpass: n.a.
18K (3%)
Downpass: n.a. Downpass: n.a.
Ukraine 742 (4.2%)

Portugal 793 (9%)

NETHERLANDS GERMANY PORTUGAL UKRAINE


RUSSIA
17,876 Downpass: n.a. RDS: 48 tonnes 6,958
Downpass: n.a.
RDS: 207 tonnes RDS: 742 tonnes
565K
Tonnes Downpass: n.a.
Russian Federation
975 (11%)
tonnes Ukraine 4,963 (54%)
Downpass: n.a. Downpass: n.a.
tonnes

China 14,934 (83.5%)


Conventional/unknown Taiwan 1,247 (13%)
542K (96%)
Source: Textile Exchange
Responsible
China Ukraine VietnamDownpass
Down Standard Conventional/unknown
Hungary Poland Others
Source:
Source: TextileExchange
Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 and standard owners
Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
North America East and South-East Asia
Downpass certified down by country 2021
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) number of sites Downpass number of sites
Downpass certified down by country 2021 CHINA
8,107 UNITED STATES 9,256
Others 556 (6%) RDS: 14,934 tonnes
RDS: 204 tonnes
Poland 722 (8%) 7,942 Downpass: n.a.
6,246
5,806 6,592
Portugal 793 (9%)
TAIWAN

6,958 Downpass: n.a.


Russian Federation tonnes Ukraine 4,963 (54%)
975 (11%)

1,290 1,339
1,041 VIETNAM
Taiwan 1,247 (13%) 412 479 577
RDS: 709 tonnes
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
Australasia
Source: Number
Textilebased
Exchange of farms
based Number of processing sites
on Downpass Number of farms Number of processing sites
Source: Textile Exchange on Downpass
AUSTRALIA
Source: Textile Exchange Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass
Downpass: n.a.
Downpass number of sites
1 This assumes that no down and farms were double-certified to RDS and Downpass. Information on double-certification was not available at report launch.
9,256
2 Based on 14.5% loss from birds to down and on 60:40 duck:goose ratio. Recycled down
7,942
3 Downpass production volumes were only available at global level but not at country level. The percentages indicated here are based on the number of farms by country. As the number of farms do not necessarily correlate with the production volumes, the percentages in volumes may differ from the
Recycled down market share
percentages 2021
listed here.
6,592
Recycled 5K (1%)

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Down & Feathers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 33
39

577
1,290 1,339
1,041
412

Recycled down 2019


Number of farms
2020
Number of processing sites
2021 2019

Number of farms
2

Nu

Production facts and figures Source: Textile Exchange Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass

Recycled down had an estimated market share of around Key suppliers for third-party certified down
1% of the global down production volume in 2021. While
Recycled
Recycled down
down market share in 2021
Major suppliers for GRS-certified recycled down are:
virgin global down production was around 565 thousand Recycled down market share 2021
tonnes in 2021, the production volume of recycled down is • Allied with its GRS-certified TITANIUM: RENU™. Read Recycled 5K (1%)
roughly estimated at around 5,580 tonnes. The market for more in the Supplier Mapping.
recycled down is growing1.
• Downlite, a US-based company, with its GRS-certified
Re/charged down, launched in 2017.
Key standards
• Navarpluma, a Spanish GRS-certified company, with its
Key standards used for recycled down include the Recycled Recycled NEOKDUN® originating from the recycling of 571K
Claim Standard (RCS) and the Global Recycled Standard bedding/apparel finished products that have reached tonnes

(GRS). Further information on these standards is provided the end of their product life cycle.
in the chapter on Sustainability Standards.
• Rohdex with its recycled down certified to the GRS.

Virgin 565K (99%)


Tip: How to find suppliers of recycled down. Textile Exchange Member Action
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research
Re:Down is a company specialized in the down recycling
of RCS- and/or GRS-certified suppliers.
made from post-consumer products. Re:Down produce a
garden fertilizer from feathers that do not make the grade.
Read more in the Supplier Mapping.

1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Down and Feather Market Report 2022 (customized report).

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Down & Feathers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 34
Commitments to preferred down
Examples
The number of apparel, outdoor and home textile policy that ensures there has been no live-plucking and Varner is committed to 100% RDS down. Read more here.
companies that have publicly committed to preferred down they don’t derive from animals that have undergone force-
is increasing every year. feeding during the reproductive phase of their lives. Read All virgin down purchased by VF Corporation in 2017 and
more here. 2018 was certified to the RDS. 2018 was the first year that
Examples of public commitments by Textile VF purchased recycled down, which was all certified to the
Exchange members H&M only accepts down from farms that have been RDS- GRS. Read more here.
certified and recycled down since 2015. Read more here.
All down used by Arc’teryx is certified to the RDS. Read Since 2017, 100% of the down sourced by Volcom is RDS-
more here. 100% of the down in Kathmandu products is certified certified. Read more here.
under the RDS. Read more here.
Aritzia uses only down that’s certified to the RDS. Read Other examples
more here. All down sourced by Marks & Spencer must be certified
by RDS or the IDFL Down Standard (IDS) or RCS/GRS- All down used in Deckers-branded products is certified in
BESTSELLER only uses virgin down sourced according to certified recycled down. Read more here. accordance with the RDS. Read more here.
the RDS. Read more here.
Norrona only uses down that is RDS-certified or recycled. Starting with its fall/winter collection 2016, Hugo Boss
Since fall 2016, all the down and feathers in C&A’s products Read more here. AG exclusively uses down that is produced without live-
are RDS-certified. Read more here. plucking or forced feeding and has documented origins.
All Patagonia’s virgin down is certified to the RDS. Read Read more here.
Columbia has committed to 100% RDS-certified down and more here.
feathers throughout its global line (excluding its Japanese From fall 2017, Tommy Hilfiger confirmed that all their
subsidiary). Read more here. prAna is committed to only sourcing RDS-certified down. down products are certified to the RDS. Read more here.
Read more here.
Eileen Fisher is committed to 100% RDS-certified down Since 2018, all down used by Helly Hansen is RDS-
and feathers. Read more here. PVH Corp requires all down and feathers to adhere to the certified. Read more here.
RDS. Read more here.
Esprit ensures that 100% of their down and feathers are
sourced according to the RDS, or RCS/GRS certified 100% of the down sourced by Ralph Lauren is RDS-
Make a Standards Commitment
recycled down. Read more here. certified or recycled down by 2023. Read more here.
Whether you have already made a commitment to
All down sourced by GANT is compliant to the RDS. Read 100% of down insulation used by REI has been RDS- one or more of Textile Exchange’s Standards, or you
more here. certified since 2015. Read more here. want to share a new one, you may use this form to
register details of your commitment(s).
Gucci’s sustainability principles state that the supplier and The North Face started using RDS-certified down in Fall
its sub-supplier ensure that feathers or downs are RDS- 2015 and since Fall 2016 they have only purchased RDS-
certified or that they adopt, maintain, and verify a sourcing certified down. Read more here.

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Down & Feathers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 35
Animal Fibers & Materials:

Wool & Other Animal Fibers

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 36


Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool
Production facts and figures
With an annual production volume of approximately one The programs listed here have assurance and traceability

3+97+F
million tonnes of clean wool fiber, sheep wool is the most models and were able to share volume data in time for this Global wool programs' greasy wool
used animal-based fiber1. This equals a greasy wool report launch. The RWS was developed with the aim of market share in 2021
production of around 1,950,240 tonnes in 2021. providing a holistic global benchmark and definition for
responsible wool production. Textile Exchange measures
While the global wool production has been declining the progress of the most ambitious wool programs that are
over the years, the market share of wool programs is able to share volume data.
increasing. As such, the wool market is trending in the
~2 million
right direction and is setting a lead for other fiber and 2021 data for the production volume of organic, Land to
tonnes
materials to follow. Market, and other programs were not available for the
launch of this report.
The market share of wool produced according to the
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ + ZQRX, and
SustainaWOOL GOLD and GREEN combined was 58,434 Global wool production by program
Programs incl. RWS, ZQ, ZQRX, SustainaWOOL
tonnes (=3%) of the total greasy wool production in 2021. (in '000 tonnes and % of total greasy wool) GREEN + GOLD (~3%)  

The RWS (including equivalents) accounted for Unspecified (97%)2


approximately 87% of this 3% market share, equaling 58 thousand tonnes of greasy wool (3%)
2.6% of the global greasy wool market. ZQ (including | Material Production Dashboard / Animal
equivalents) accounted for 0.9% of the global greasy
RWS ≈ 51 (2.62 %)
wool production, and SustainaWOOL GREEN and GOLD
ZQ ≈ 17 (0.85 %) GlobalWool Mohair & Cashmere
wool fiber production (million tonnes) Down
together accounted for 0.4% of the greasy wool market.
Due to the double-certification of around 0.9% of the Virgin wool
global greasy wool production, around 3% (and not 4%) of SustainaWOOL GREEN Global wool fiber production (million tonnes) Global wool productio

1.52
the global greasy wool production was certified according + GOLD ≈ 7 (0.38 %)
1.34

to these programs. 1.22


1.10 1.13
1.03 1.03

Others
The increasing number of wool programs significantly
34 2.7 13.8 0.3 7
vary in terms of requirements; their approach to assurance
1.77% 0.14% 0.71% 0.02% 0.36%
ranging from self-declaration to third-party audits as well
RW

RW
RW

Su
Su

as degrees of traceability and oversight through the supply st


st

1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021


S

S
S

ai
ai
(Z

(Z

chain. Some are active in only certain regions or markets na


na
Q

Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO


Q

W Source: Textile Exchan


W
)

Note: This chart covers virgin clean wool and not recycled wool Note: This chart covers
and others focus in on particular impact areas.
O
O
ZQ

O
O

L
L
RX

G
G

RE
O
)

Source: Textile ExchangeWool


based on IWTO Preferred sheep wool i
LD

EN Market share of Responsible Standard by country (percent)


Map Detail
Note: This chart
29.88 covers virgin clean wool and not recycled wool

1 IWTO, 2022. Market Information. Edition 17. Link.


2 This includes the volumes of wool programs for which data were unavailable or inaccessible at the launch of the report. 16.50
14.84

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 2.23
0.94
37
0.14

South Africa Uruguay Argentina Australia United States New Zealand Source: Textile Exchang
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners Note: This chart covers
1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 Australia China New Zealand Turkey
29.88
Virgin wool
South Africa Others
Map Detail
14.84
Global wool fiber production (million tonnes) Global wool production by country in 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO Source: Textile Exchange
1.52 based on IWTO
1.34 Australia 227,
Note: This chart covers virgin clean wool and not recycled wool Note: This chart covers virgin clean 1.22
wool and not recycled wool 16.50

1.13 14.84

Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool


1.10
1.03 1.03

Others 499,506 (48%)


1,033,927
tonnes China 1
Preferred sheep wool2.23
in market share in 2021
Production facts and figures
Market share of Responsible Wool Standard by country (percent) 2.23
Convent
Detail
0.94

Map 0.94 Responsible Wool Standard 0.14


New Zealand 9
29.88 South Africa
0.14 Uruguay Argentina Australia United States New Zealand
0.05M (3%) Source
Turkey 39,442 (4%)
| Material Production Dashboard 1995/ Animal
South Africa Uruguay Argentina Australia United States New Zealand
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners Note:
2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 Australia China New Zealand Turkey South Africa O

Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)-certified wool and a new module addressing social welfareSource: on farms were Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO
Textile Exchange based on IWTO Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO

production increased from 24,195 tonnes (1.23%) of all Source: introduced.


Textile Exchange At the based close on IWTO of 2021, and program
there was owners
Note: This chart covers virgin clean wool and not recycled wool
over 23 million Responsible
Preferred wool productionWool Standard
by program Note: Note: (tonnes)
This
This chart covers
(tonnes) chart
virgin covers
clean wool virgin
and not recycled wool greasy wool

Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Silk


Responsible Wool Standard Leather SustainaWool Green & Gold
global greasy virgin wool in 2020 to 51,078 tonnes (2.62%) hectares under RWS certification. 1
Market share of Responsible Wool Standard by country (percent) Preferred sheep wool in market share in 2021 51,078
Map Detail
in 2021—on global average. In the key apparel wool Virgin wool 29.88
Responsible Wool Stand
0.05M (3%)
6,759

2M
6,163
16.50
producing countries, RWS-certified wool has reached SustainaWOOL GREEN production volumes increased
14.84 Preferred wool production
Global by program
wool fiber production (million tonnes) (tonnes) Global wool production by country in 2021

market shares as high as 30% of all wool in South Africa, fro 6,685 tonnes 1.52 in 2020 to 6,992 tonnes in 2021. total tonnes

17% in Uruguay, and 15% in Argentina. In 2021, RWS wool SustainaWOOL


Responsible Wool GOLD
Standard
1.34
production
1.22
volumes increased from SustainaWool Green & Gold
16.50
14.84
Australia 227,960 (22%)
2M 24,195
ZQ 6,163
6,685
1.10 1.13 total tonnes

was produced in India and the Falk Islands for the first time. 74 tonnes in 2020 to 364 tonnes in 2021. SustainaWOOL
1.03 1.03 is 7,356
51,078
produced in Australia. Others 499,506 (48%)
1,033,927
6,759China 139,563 (13%) 364
tonnes
To date, the majority of RWS-certified wool is merino 6,163
2.23
0.94
Conventional/unknown
1.90M (97%) 2019 2020
ZQ wool (New Zealand Merino) reached 0.85 % South (16,546
0.14

wool. With the release of the Communal Farmer Group Uruguay Conventional/unknown
SustainaWool Green SustainaWool
2.23 Africa Argentina Australia United States New Zealand
2020 2021
Source:
New Zealand Textile
97,363 (9%)Exchange based on IWTO and program owners
0.94
tonnes) in 2021. 0.14 All ZQ wool in 2021 was also RWS-certified
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners 1.90M (97%) Turkey 39,442 (4%)
Note: This chart covers virgin greasy wool and not recycled wool
Certification model, access to certification has broadened 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 Australia China New Zealand Turkey South Africa Others
South Africa Uruguay Argentina Australia
to cover farmers with no or limited land tenure, including United States
in 2021. New
ZQ woolZealand is produced
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO
in New Zealand and Australia.
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO andExchange
Source: Textile program based onowners
IWTO Resp

SustainaWOOL GREEN & GOLD (tonnes)


Preferred wool production by program (tonnes)
Source:nomadic and semi-nomadic
Textile Exchange based on IWTOfarmers.
and program In 2021,
ownersRWS- Additional outcome measurement
Note: This chart covers virgin clean wool and not recycled wool
Note:according
This chartto ZQRX
covers wasgreasy Note:
virgin
This chart covers virgin clean wool and not recycled wool
wool and not recycled wool
Responsible Wool Standard SustainaWool Green & Gold ZQ + ZQRX

certified wool was produced in communities with such carried out for around 84% of all ZQ wool produced in 2021. 51,078 7,356 16,546
Market share of Responsible Wool Standard by country (percent)
24,195 Detail
Preferred sheep wool in market share in 2021
6,685 6,992 6,759 364
Map Responsible Wool Standard
production systems in India for the first time. 29.88
6,163 0.05M (3%) 6,163

Data for the production volume of organic, Land to


Preferred wool production by program (tonnes) Market, and other programs were not available at the
RWS has also seen a strong adoption through the supply 13,848

chain with a concentration in key apparel wool processing launch of this report. More information on the market share 16.50 24,195
2M 6,685 6,992

Responsible Wool Standard SustainaWool Green & Gold


6,163
ZQ + ZQRX
14.84

total tonnes

countries such as Italy and China. With the release of RWS of non-mulesed wool can be found in the chapter on The
51,078 7,356 16,546
2.0 the supply chain certification for RWS, Responsible Non-Mulesed Wool Market.
6,759 364 2,698

Mohair Standard (RMS), and Responsible Alpaca Standard 2.23 2019 2019
Conventional/unknown 2020
2020 2021 2021 2021
6,163 0.94
0.14 2020 2021 1.90M (97%) SustainaWool Green SustainaWool Gold ZQ ZQ + ZQRX

South Africa2020 2021 SustainaWool Green SustainaWool Gold


(RAS) were combined into one scope of Responsible Uruguay Argentina Australia United States New Zealand Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners
Sourc

Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners Note: This chart covers virgin greasy wool and not recycled wool
Animal Fibers (RAF).
Market share of Australian wool in 2021 Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified sites Mule
1,519
ZQ + ZQRX (tonnes)
Preferred wool production by program (tonnes)
The aim of RWS (and RMS, and RAS) is to ensure that Responsible Wool Standard SustainaWool Green & Gold 13,848
ZQ + ZQRX Australia 227,960 (22%)
the potential for high animal welfare for animals raised 51,078
6,992
7,356 16,546
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) ce
24,195 6,685 6,759 364

in extensive grazing and free ranging farming systems 6,163 6,163

is realized. This is possible through audited standards 745 756 756

1,033,927
covering all aspects of the animals' lives to ensure best 13,848
tonnes
24,195 6,685 6,992

practice from the farmers and to deliver high level welfare. 6,163
343

At the close of 2021, more than 10 million sheep were under Others 805,966 (78%)
2,698
RWS certification.1 In addition to animal welfare, the RWS 2,698
2019 2020
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2021 Number of farms Number of processing sites
addresses land management and with the launch of the
2021

SustainaWool Green SustainaWool Gold


2020 2021 SustainaWool Green SustainaWool Gold ZQ ZQ + ZQRX
2020 2021 ZQ on IWTO
Source: Textile Exchange based ZQ + ZQRX
Source: Textile Exchange Sourc

RWS 2.0 in March 2020 new biodiversity requirements


Market share of Australian wool in 2021 Mulesing status of wool in Australia 2021
Recycled
745 wool
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified sites

Global recycled wool market share 2021


1,519 1,519
Freeze mulesing risk (NM, CM)
Australia 227,960 (22%) 19 (19%) Rec

Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified sites

1,519 1,519 343


CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED
1,033,927 FIBER
745 &756MATERIALS 756
MARKET REPORT 38
228K 1,103,928
tonnes tonnes tonnes
High mulesing risk (ND)
343 24 (24%)
Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool
Wool production by country
In the key apparel wool-producing countries, RWS-certified wool
has reached market shares as high as 30% of all wool in South Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred wool
Africa, 17% in Uruguay, and 15% in Argentina. In 2021, RWS wool was
Down Silk
also produced in India and the Falkland Islands forLeather
the first time. Check out the Textile Exchange database for certified suppliers of RWS, OCS and recycled wool, the
Responsible Wool Standard Brand Sourcing Guide for support related to the RWS and the GOTS database for
GOTS certified wool suppliers.2 Or contact SustainaWOOL or ZQ for a list of certified suppliers.
in wool
Global wool production by country in 2021
Global wool production by country in 2021

Australia 227,960 (22%)

Market share of wool programs by country 2


Others 499,506 (48%)
1,033,927
tonnes China 139,563 (13%)

Australia China New Zealand Turkey


New Zealand 97,363 (9%)
Turkey 39,442 (4%)

South Africa Others


1+99 India
RWS: <1 %

Source: Textile Exchange


Source: Textilebased on IWTO
Exchange based on IWTO
Note: This chart covers
Note: virgincovers
This chart cleanvirgin
woolclean
and not
woolrecycled wool wool
and not recycled

Preferred sheep wool in market share in 2021


11+89+
11 New Zealand

1+99
RWS: ~10.7% (incl. ZQ)
Responsible Wool Standard ZQ: ~10.6% (also RWS)
0.05M (3%) United States
RWS: ~1 %

2M
total tonnes
17+83+
17 Uruguay
RWS: ~17 %
30+70+
30 South Africa
RWS: ~30 %

5+95 Australia

100
RWS: ~3 % (incl. ZQ)

15+85+
15 Argentina Falkland Islands SustainaWOOL GREEN: 2%
Conventional/unknown RWS: na SustainaWOOL GOLD: 0.1%
1.90M (97%) RWS: ~15 %
ZQ: ~ 1% (also RWS)
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners
Note: This1 chart
IWTO, 2022.virgin
covers Market Information.
greasy wool andEdition 17. Linkwool
not recycled
2 Only including RWS, ZQ + ZQRX, and SustainaWool Green+Gold as data were unavailable for Land to Market, organic, and other programs
at report launch. Market share given in percentages compared to overall wool production based on ITWO data as mentioned in (1). Only wool
producing countries with production according to these standards highlighted in dark blue.

ZQ + ZQRX
7,356 16,546
6,759 CONTENTS
364 Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 39
Preferred wool production by program (tonnes)

Responsible Wool Standard SustainaWool Green & Gold ZQ + ZQRX


51,078 7,356 16,546
6,759 364
745

Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool


6,163

343
13,848

The Non-Mulesed Wool Market


24,195 6,685 6,992
6,163

2019
N

2,698 Source: Textile Exchange

Mulesing, i.e., the removal of wool-bearing strips of skin the breech and/or tail of a sheep using mulesing shears . 2
2019 2020 2021 2021

from between the hind legs of sheep (the “breech” area) in This means that wool sold as non-mulesed as per the
2020 2021 SustainaWool Green SustainaWool Gold
Market share of Australian wool in 2021
Market share of Australian wool in 2021
ZQ ZQ + ZQRX
Mulesing status of wool in Australia

an effort to avoid problems of fly strike, remains a key issue AWEX definition could still be produced using freeze Freeze mulesing risk (NM,
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified sites Australia 227,960 (22%) 19 (1
related to wool production. mulesing (steining). However, AWEX has published 1,519 1,519

the latest version of its National Wool Declaration (NWD


With the ban of mulesing in New Zealand in 2018, V9.3) in March 2022, following extensive stakeholder 1,033,927
the only country where mulesing is still practiced is consultations. The new version, which came into force in tonnes

Australia. As Australia has a market share of around 22% 745 756 756
High mulesing risk (ND)
July 2022, includes a new separate labeling category for 24 (24%)

of the global clean wool market1, the risk of sourcing wool "steining", i.e. sheep treated with liquid nitrogen (LN). Others 805,966 (78%)
343

produced with mulesing practices remains high if no


Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO
traceability system is in place to ensure that the wool is Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ, and Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO
2019 2020 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on Aw

mulesing-free. SustainaWOOL GREEN and GOLD certifications ensure Number of farms Number of processing sites
Recycled wool
Source: Textile Exchange

that wool is from non-mulesed sheep. If organic wool is Global recycled wool market share 2021
In this context, it's important to note that different forms of certified to the Organic Content Standard (OCS), it also has
Market share of Australian wool in 2021 Mulesing status of wool in Australia 2021
Mulesing status of wool in Australia 2021 Recycled 70,001 (6%)

mulesing exist: the removal of skin via cutting with shears to be non-mulesed or from a farm with ceasing-mulesed Freeze mulesing risk (NM, CM)
and by the application of liquid nitrogen (sheep freeze status based on the latest revised version (OCS 3.0),
Australia 227,960 (22%) 19 (19%)

branding or "steining") and the use of rubber rings—more launched in April 2020. Additionally, the Global Organic 1,103,928
commonly used for tail docking or castration to remove Textile Standard (GOTS) 6.0, launched in March 2020,
tonnes

1,033,927 228K
loose skin from the breech area. Four Paws and Human added mulesed wool to their list of prohibited fibers. tonnes tonnes Mulesed (M, AA)
57 (57%)
Society International published a position statement High mulesing risk (ND)
24 (24%) Virgin 1,033,927 (94%)

opposing freeze mulesing (steining) in September 2019 Others 805,966 (78%) Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and maia research

Australian National Wool Declaration (NWD) Definitions2


because of the severe pain this inflicts on sheep. Both
M = Mulesed = “some/all sheep in this mob have been mulesed”. Source:
TermsTextile Exchange
of use : Please inform usbased
for whichon Awex
project you are using
organizations are against any form of breech mutilation or Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO Source:
the Textile
data via Exchange
this form (link) based on Awex
AA = Analgesic/Anaesthetic = “All sheep in this mob were mulesed and Contact : Please contact pfmr@textileexchange.org for any
modification. treated with a pre- and /or post-Analgesic &/or Anaesthetic product(s) Recycled wool
questions.

registered by APVMA for use on sheep”.


Global recycled wool market share 2021
The number of “Brands against mulesing” listed by Four ND = Not Declared Recycled 70,001 (6%) Number of brands against mulesing
CM = Ceased Mulesing = “No lambs born on this property in the last 12
Paws increased from 203 in June 2021 to 305 in July
months have been mulesed. No mulesed (or mulesed with AA) ewes or
2022³. wethers have been purchased.”
400

NM = Non Mulesed = “No sheep in this mob has been mulesed”. 1,103,928
300
305

While definitions of mulesing usually include any form Mulesing = “The removal of skin from the breech and/or tail of a sheep tonnes
203

of breech mutilation or modification, including steining, using mulesing shears.” 200 185

the mulesing definition of the Australian Wool Exchange Source: Australian Animal Welfare Standards and Guidelines for Sheep. 100
100
Virgin 1,033,927 (94%)
It is important to note that the definition of “mulesing” of the Australian
(AWEX) used to only include the removal of skin from Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and maia research
National Wool Declaration does not include freeze mulesing (steining). 0
April 2020 February 2021 June 2021 July 2022

1 IWTO, 2022. Market Information. Edition 17. Link. Terms of use : Please inform us for which project you are using
the data via this form (link)
Source: Four Paws

2 AWEX website “Mulesing Status”—accessed on September 15, 2022. Link. Contact : Please contact pfmr@textileexchange.org for any
questions.

3 Four Paws website “Timeline to End Mulesing” and “Brands Against Mulesing”—accessed on July 7th, 2022. Link and Link.
4 AWEX, 2022. “NWD Wool Market”. Link.

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 40
Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool
Land, biodiversity, regenerative practices, carbon sequestration
The majority of fiber-producing animals are kept in This fund intends to provide grants to farmers, NGOs and
extensive, free-ranging, pasture-based systems. The key stakeholders who are on the frontlines of developing
management of land is therefore a key consideration. and scaling agricultural change on the ground.

Grazing management for fiber-producing animals can In addition to funding initiatives, there are many groups
degrade soil but using regenerative methods can not already working with farmers to deliver regenerative
only arrest degradation, but also improve soil health. The solutions. As well as working with a network of RWS-
vegetation coverage, diversity of species in the sward, certified sheep wool producers in Argentina, Chile and
timing of grazing, stocking rates and use of manures and Uruguay, Ovis 21 has trained over 700 people in holistic,
other inputs can all be monitored and managed to deliver regenerative land management. The earlier work of
a positive outcome. Regenerative livestock management Ovis 21 led to the development of the Savory Institute’s
not only has the potential to deliver better soil health and Ecological Outcome Verification (EOV), an empirical soil
better quality and quantity of vegetation for grazing (and and landscape assessment methodology. EOV underpins
thus better animal welfare), but it also has the potential to the Land to Market program that offers a range of products
mitigate greenhouse gas emissions from grazing livestock from foodstuffs to leather and fiber. Ovis 21 has over
through carbon sequestration and therefore reduce the 400,000 hectares of land with the EOV seal and is able to
carbon footprint of animal fibers. market regenerative wool.

Transitioning to regenerative practices is going to require Fibershed, a California-based organization, develops


collaboration and financial support. This need for funding regional fiber systems to build soil and protect the health
has been recognized by governments and the private of the biosphere. Fibershed is the initiator of the Climate-
sector as the examples below show. Beneficial™ wool program, which is grounded in an effort
to scale the implementation of carbon farming to create
The Australian Government has introduced a $34 million carbon sinks.
Agriculture Stewardship Package focusing on biodiversity.
Part of the Agriculture Biodiversity Stewardship Pilot
Program will be to make grants available to incentivize the
adoption of improved biodiversity practices on farms.

In 2021, the global luxury group Kering, working with


Conservation International, launched the “Regenerative
Fund for Nature” to transform 1 million hectares of farms
and landscapes producing raw materials in fashion supply
chains to regenerative agriculture over the next five years.

Photo: Bronwyn Botha

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 41
Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool
Supplier update
Preferred wool is based on the commitment and support of Other key suppliers of RWS-certified wool include:
leading suppliers.
• Fuhrmann, part of the Schneider Group and based in
Textile Exchange Member Action Argentina, managing 11 farms and combing 9 million kg
of wool per year, including organic and RWS-certified
BKB, a wool broker operating in South Africa and Lesotho, wool.
and the leading producer of RWS-certified wool globally.
• Ovis 21, a network of more than 160 producers and
Chargeurs Wool is an internationally operating company professionals working with over one million sheep in
that supplies RWS merino wool. Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay who seek to change the
paradigm of farming from extractive to regenerative.
Fox and Lillie, one of the largest buyers and exporters of
Australian wool, operating a rapidly expanding RWS farm
group. Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred wool
Lanas Trinidad, jointly owned by Chargeurs and the Otegui Check out the Textile Exchange database for
family and main producer and exporter of combed wool certified suppliers of RWS-certified suppliers.
tops in Uruguay, operating an RWS farm group that is
rapidly growing.
The Schneider Group is adopting the RWS in their
Authentico program and all Authentico top-making
facilities and several Authentico farms are now RWS-
certified.

Shaniko Wool Company was established to continue the


work of their family ranch (Imperial Stock Ranch) and
others like them, in supporting the use of wool. At the
request of a leading outdoor recreation brand, Shaniko has
been involved with the RWS since 2015. They were a pilot
audit site in 2015, and the following year, they were the first
ranch in the world to receive RWS certification. Working
with additional ranches and scaling the effort, Shaniko
Wool Company is an approved US Group supplier of RWS
wool. In 2020, Shaniko launched its Shaniko Wool Carbon
initiative. Read more about Shaniko's action from direct
market connections to measuring ecosystem impacts in
this interview.
Photo: Shaniko Wool

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 42
| Material Production Dashboard / Animal
Virgin animal fibers: Mohair | Material Production Dashboard / Animal

Production facts and figures Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Silk Leather
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Silk Leather
Mohair is the hair of the angora goat (not to be confused
Global greasy mohair fiber production Mohair Global market share of
with the angora rabbit which produces angora wool). Mohair
In 2021, around 4,590 tonnes of raw mohair fiber were
Global greasy mohair fiber production by country in 2021
by country in 2021 Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) in 2021
Global market share of Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) in 2021
produced globally. Approximately half of the global Global greasy mohair fiber production by country in 2021 Global market share of Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) in 2021

mohair (2,330 tonnes) was produced in South Africa. The Others 680 (15%)
Others 680 (15%)
remaining mohair was produced in Lesotho (750 tonnes),
Turkey (470 tonnes), Argentina (360 tonnes), United RMS 1,601 (35%)
Argentina 360 (8%)
States (250 tonnes), New Zealand (20 tonnes), Australia Argentina 360 (8%)
RMS 1,601 (35%)

(80 tonnes), and other countries (330 tonnes) . 1

4,590 4,590
tonnes 4,590 tonnes 4,590
The South African mohair industry has been governed by Turkey 470 (10%) Turkey 470 (10%) tonnes tonnes
its own Sustainable Mohair Production Guidelines since Conventional/unknown
2,989 (65%)
Conventional/unknown
2009. These industry guidelines have been developed 2,989 (65%)
South Africa 2,330 (51%)
and regularly revised by the South African Mohair Growers Lesotho 750 (16%) South Africa 2,330 (51%)
Association. They provided background information on Lesotho 750 (16%)

the principles, criteria, and indicators supported by self- Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and own data
Source: Mohair South Africa Note: This chart includes
Source:
Source: greasy
Textile
Textile mohair
Exchange
Exchange data
based
based on IWTO
on IWTO and and
own own
data data
assessment checklists. Source: Mohair South Africa Note:This
Thischart
chartincludes
includes greasy mohair data
Source: Mohair South Africa Note: greasy mohair data

The Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) is the evolution


Cashmere
of the increasing importance and demand for an Cashmere
independent, third-party audited, international standard.
Global cashmere production by country in 2021 Global cashmere production by program in 2021
Global cashmere production by country in 2021 Global cashmere production by program in 2021
In response to requests from stakeholders, Textile Others 1,219 (5%) 2,300 (9%)
Others 1,219 (5%) 2,300 (9%)
Exchange launched the RMS in 2020. It is based on the 1,826 (7%)
1,826 (7%)
existing Responsible Wool Standard, which was released in 345 (1%)
345 (1%)
2016. The latest version, RMS 1.2, was released in 2021.
Mongolia 9,800 (38%)
26,121 26,121
The market share of the RMS reached an impressive 20% Mongolia 9,800 (38%) 26,121
tonnes 26,121 tonnes
in 2020, its first year of existence, and increased to 35% tonnes China 15,102 (58%) tonnes
China 15,102 (58%)
of all mohair produced worldwide in 2021.
21,567 (83%)
RMS fibers were produced in South Africa—and for the 21,567 (83%)
first time also in Australia—in 2021. The RMS market share GCS SFARN AVSF Conventional/unknown
increased to 67% of the total mohair production in South GCS SFA RN AVSF Conventional/unknown
Source: Textile Exchange based on program owners
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO, NBS China, and Mongolian Statistical Information Service
Source: Textile Exchange based on program owners
Africa and 42% of the total mohair production in Australia Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO, NBS China, and Mongolian Statistical Information Service
in 2021.
Cashmere production by program (in tonnes)
Cashmere production by program (in tonnes)
1 Mohair South Africa—received by email in July 2022 AVSF Cashmere Standard Good Cashmere Standard® Responsible Nomads
AVSF Cashmere Standard Good Cashmere Standard® Responsible Nomads
83 2,300 345
83 2,300 345

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal


60 Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 43
60
50 1,350
50 1,350 180
180
Virgin animal fibers: Mohair
Supplier insights
Textile Exchange Member Action Other key suppliers of RMS-certified mohair

BKB, a wool and mohair broker operating in South Africa • The House of Fibre is a leading mohair and wool broker
and Lesotho is a leading global supplier of RMS mohair. and supporter and supplier of the RMS.
• South African Mohair Industries Limited (SAMIL) is a
Mohair South Africa is the organization that represents
leading trader of mohair from South Africa and a key
the South African mohair industry. It has been actively
supplier of RMS mohair.
involved in the development of the new Responsible
Mohair Standard (RMS) and is supporting the industry in The Mohair Empowerment Trust is another key
its implementation. organization for supporting the implementation of the
RMS.
Margarete Steiff GmbH, the 120-year-old teddy bear
company, partnered with Katharine Hamnett, London-
based fashion designer, to produce Bio-Fur. The new
material is made from mohair fiber trapped in a cotton
backing fabric. The mohair is sourced from farms in South
Africa.

Cape Mohair & Wool (OVK), part of the OVK group of


companies, and the mohair handling and marketing leader
in South Africa and worldwide. OVK is also a leading
supplier of RMS mohair.

The Stucken Group in South Africa is a vertically integrated


niche-focused processor and trader of South African Wool
and Mohair and key supplier of RMS mohair.

Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred mohair

Check out the Textile Exchange database for RMS-


certified suppliers.

Photo: Bronwyn Botha

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 44
Turkey 470 (10%) tonnes tonnes
Conventional/unknown
2,989 (65%)
Conventional/unknown
2,989 (65%)
South Africa 2,330 (51%)
Lesotho 750 (16%) South Africa 2,330 (51%)

Virgin animal fibers: Cashmere


Lesotho 750 (16%)

Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and own data


Source: Mohair South Africa Source: greasy
Note: This chart includes Textile Exchange based on IWTO and own data
mohair data

Production facts and figures Source: Mohair South Africa Note: This chart includes greasy mohair data

Cashmere is the hair of the cashmere goat. Around 26,121 Cashmere


Cashmere
tonnes of greasy cashmere fiber were produced globally in Global cashmere production by country in 2021 Global cashmere production by program in 2021
Global cashmere production by countryproduction
in 2021 by country in 2021 Global cashmereGlobal
production by program in by
2021
2021 . Around 58% of the cashmere was produced in China,
1 Global cashmere cashmere production program in 2021

38% in Mongolia, and the remaining 5% in other countries . 2 Others 1,219 (5%) Others 1,219 (5%) 2,300 (9%) 2,300 (9%)

1,826 (7%) 1,826 (7%)


The global market share of cashmere produced according 345 (1%) 345 (1%)
to Agronomeset Vétérinaires Sans Frontiers (AVSF), THE
GOOD CASHMERE STANDARD® (GCS), Responsible
Mongolia 9,800 (38%)
Nomads (RN), Sustainable Fiber Alliance (SFA), Wildlife
Mongolia 9,800 (38%)
26,121 26,121 26,121 26,121
tonnes
tonnes tonnes
tonnes
Conservation Society (WCS) increased from 1,748 tonnes China 15,102 (58%)
China 15,102 (58%)

(=6.6%) in 2020 to 4,554 tonnes (=17.4%) in 20213.


21,567 (83%)
21,567 (83%)

GCS SFA RN AVSF Conventional/unknown


GCS SFA
Source: Textile Exchange based RN AVSF owners
on program Conventional/unknown
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO, NBS China, and Mongolian Statistical Information Service
Source: Textile Exchange based on program owners
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO,Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO, NBS China, and Mongolian Statistical Information
NBS China, and Mongolian Statistical Information Service
Service Source: Textile Exchange based on programs

Cashmere production by program (in tonnes)


Cashmere production by program (in tonnes)
AVSF Cashmere Standard Good Cashmere Standard® Responsible Nomads
AVSF Cashmere Standard 83 Good Cashmere Standard® 2,300 Responsible Nomads 345

83 2,300 345

60

60 50 1,350
180
50 1,350
180

50

0
50
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
0
2019 Source: 2020 2021
Textile Exchange based on AVSF 2019 Source: Textile2020 2021
Exchange based on GCS 2019 2020 based on RN
Source: Textile Exchange 2021

Source: Textile Exchange based on AVSF Source: Textile Exchange based on GCS Source: Textile Exchange based on RN
SFA Cashmere Standard WCS Cashmere Total

1,826 20 4,554
1 IWTO, 2022. Market Information. Edition 17. The Schneider Group, 2019. Annual Cashmere SFA Cashmere Standard WCS Cashmere Total
Market Report 2018. Link.
1,826 20 4,554
2 Textile Exchange compilation based on data provided by the program(s): AVSF, GCS, RN,
SFA, WCS. 2019 figure for SFA estimated as no data available. 12

3 The Green Gold and Animal Health Project of the Swiss Agency for Development and
Cooperation (SDC) and Mongolian National Federation of Pasture User Groups of Herders 12 1,748
(MNFPUG) have partnered in the development and implementation of program.

138
1,748
107 219
0
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other
138Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 45
107 219
Source: Textile Exchange based on SFA 0
Source: Textile Exchange based on WCS Source: Textile Exchange based on program
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
GlobalGlobal cashmere production by country
in 2021in 2021 GlobalGlobal cashmere production by program
in 2021in 2021
Others
Others 680 680 (15%)
(15%)
cashmere production by country cashmere production by program
Cas
Others Others
RMS 1,601
1,219 1,219
(5%) (5%)
(35%) 2,300 (9%)
2,300 (9%)
Argentina 360 (8%)

Global cashmere production by country in 2021 1


1,826 (7
Argentina RMSRMS 1,601
1,601 (35%)
(35%)
4,590 360 360
(8%)(8%)
Argentina
4,590 Others 1,219 (5%) 345

Turkey 470 (10%) tonnes tonnes

Virgin animal fibers: Cashmere


4,590
4,590 4,590
4,590
Mongolia
Mongolia 9,800 (38%)
9,800 (38%)
26,121 26,121
26,121
Turkey
Turkey 470 470 (10%)
(10%)
Conventional/unknown
tonnes
tonnes 2,989 (65%) 26,121 tonnes
tonnes
tonnestonnes
tonnestonnes
South Africa 2,330 (51%) China 15,102
China 15,102 (58%) (58%)
Conventional/unknown

Production facts and figures


Conventional/unknown
Lesotho 750 (16%) 2,989 (65%) Mongolia 9,800 (38%)
2,989 (65%)
26,121
SouthSouth Africa
Africa 2,3302,330 (51%)
(51%) tonnes
Lesotho
Lesotho 750 750 (16%) Textile Exchange based on IWTO and own data
(16%)
Source: 21,56721,567
(83%) (83%)
China 15,102 (58%)
Source: Mohair South Africa Note: This chart includes greasy mohair data
GCS SFA RN AVSF Conventional/un
Agronomeset Vétérinaires Sans Frontiers The Sustainable Fiber Alliance Source: Mohair
(SFA)
South Africa
with Source:
Source:
Note:
Note:
Textile
Textile
ThisThis
chartchart
Exchange
Exchange
includes
includes
based
based
greasy
greasy
on IWTO
on IWTO
mohair
mohair
and and
ownown
datadata
datadata
Source:Source:
Textile Textile
ExchangeExchange
GCS SFA RN AVSF Conventional/unknown
based
based on on program
program ownersowners
Cashmere production by program (in tonnes)
Source: Mohair South Africa Source:
Source: Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange based
based on onNBS
IWTO, IWTO, NBSand
China, China, and Mongolian
Mongolian Statistical
Statistical Information
Information Service Service
(AVSF) greasy cashmere fiber production its SFA Cashmere Standard covered Cashmere
16,058
increased from 60 tonnes in 2020Global
tocashmere production byherder families organized in 74 producer Global cashmere production by programCashmere
country in 2021
Cashmere
in 2021 production Cashmere
Cashmere
production by program
by program (in tonnes)
(in tonnes) Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO, NBS China, and Mongolian Statistical Information Service

83 tonnes in 2021. The AVSF project, groups producing 345 tonnes of greasy
Others 1,219 (5%) AVSF Cashmere 2,300 AVSF
Standard
(9%) Cashmere Standard Good Cashmere
Good Cashmere
Standard®
Standard® Respons
AVSF Cashmere Standard Good Cashmere Standard® Responsible No
Global cashmere production by country in 2021 Global cashmere production by program in 2021
operating in Mongolia, involved 11 cashmere fiber from around 3.6 million
Global cashmere production by country in 2021 Global
1,826 (7%)
cashmere
83
production
83
by program in 2021
Cashmere production by program 2,300 (in tonnes)
2,300
Others
Others 1,219
1,219 (5%)(5%) 2,300
2,300 (9%)(9%)
cooperatives including 977 herder families goats in 2021, independently assessed as 345 (1%)
AVSF Cashmere Standard
1,8261,826
(7%)(7%)
Good Cas
60 60
and covered 1.9 million hectares of land with compliant with the standard. 50 50 345
(1%)(1%)
3451,350
83
Mongolia 9,800 (38%)
26,121 26,121 1,350
180
252,006 goats in 2021. tonnes
tonnes
60
The Wildlife Conservation Society China 15,102 (58%)
Mongolia
Mongolia 9,800 (WCS)
9,800
(38%)(38%)
26,121
26,121
26,121
26,121 50
tonnes
tonnes
tonnes
THE GOOD CASHMERE STANDARD® program has gone through a substantial tonnes
China
China 15,102
15,102 (58%)(58%)
50 50

21,567 (83%) 0 0
(GCS) by the Aid by Trade Foundation review and changes. Moving forward, 2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021 2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021 2019 2019 2020 2

(AbTF), developed in 2019, covered 2,800 WCS will be working to deliver the scienceSource: Textile Exchange based onGCS SFA RN AVSF Conventional/unknown
Source:
owners Source:
programSource: Textile Exchange
Textile
Textile Exchange based
Exchange
based on AVSF
on AVSF based on AVSF
21,567
21,567 (83%)
(83%)
Source:Source:
Textile Textile Exchange based on GCS
Source: Textile Exchange based on GCS
Exchange based on GCS Source:
Source: Textile Textile
ExchangeExchange
0 based based
on RN o
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO, NBS China, and Mongolian Statistical Information Service
tonnes of greasy cashmere fiber produced and monitoring implementation required GCSGCS SFASFA RN RN AVSF AVSF 2019
Conventional/unknown
Conventional/unknown
2020 2021 2019

SFA Cashmere Source:


Source: Textile
Textile
Standard Exchange
Exchange based
based on program
on program owners
owners WCS Cashmere
by 9,000 herder families and more than 4 for verification of sustainable
Cashmere production by program (in tonnes)
Source:
Source:
practices Textile
Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on IWTO,
on IWTO, NBSNBS China,
China, and Mongolian
SFA Cashmere
and Mongolian Statistical
Standard
Statistical Information
Information Service
Service WCS Cashmere
Source: Textile Exchange based on AVSF
20
Source: Textile ExchangeTotalbased
1,826 1,826 20
million goats in China in 2021. and will transition away from community
AVSF Cashmere Standard Good Cashmere Standard®(in tonnes)
Responsible Responsible Nomads
Nomads SFA Cashmere Standard
Cashmere
Cashmere production
production by by program
program (in tonnes) SFA Cashmere Standard WCS
engagement 83 and engagement directly 2,300 345
12
1,826
The Responsible Nomads (RN) program, in cashmere sale processes. FromAVSF
AVSF
2021
Cashmere
Cashmere Standard
Standard GoodGood Cashmere
Cashmere Standard®
Standard®
12
Responsible
Responsible Nomads
Nomads

83 83 2,300 2,300 345 345


previously referred to as Green Gold 60
onwards, the progress will no longer be1,350 12
1,748 1
50
and Animal Health program, covered measured in production volumes. 60 60
180
138
50 50 107 107 1381,350 219 219
22,400 herder families organized in 56 1,350
180 180
0 0

2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021 2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021 2019 2019 2020
cooperatives on 4 million hectares of 50
107 138
0 Source:
Source: Textile Textile
ExchangeExchange based
based on SFAon SFA Source:
Source: Textile Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on WCS on WCS Source:
Source: Textile Textile
ExchangeExchange based
based on progo
land in 13 provinces in Mongolia in 2021.2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 50 50 2019 2020 2021 2019

The greasy cashmere production volume


Source: Textile Exchange based on AVSF Source: Textile Exchange based on GCS Source: Textile
0 0
Exchange
Source: based
Textile on RN
Exchange based on2021 SFA Source:2019Source:
Textile Textile
Exchange Exchange
based on SFA based2021 on SFA Source: Textile Exchange based
20192019 20202020 20212021 20192019 20202020 2021 2019 20202020 2021
increased from 180 tonnes in 2020 to 345
Source: Textile Exchange based
Source: Textile Exchange based on AVSF on AVSF Source: Textile Exchange based
Source: Textile Exchange based on GCS on GCS Source: Textile Exchange based
Source: Textile Exchange based on RN on RN
tonnes in 2021. SFA Cashmere Standard WCS Cashmere
20
Total

1,826

SFASFA Cashmere
Cashmere Standard
Standard
WCS WCS
Cashmere
WCS Cashmere
Cashmere
4,554
Total
TotalTotal

1,826
1,826 20 20 4,554
4,554
12

12 12 1,748

1,748
1,748
107 138 219
0
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
107 107 138 138 219 219
0 0
Source: Textile Exchange based on SFA Source: Textile Exchange based on WCS Source: Textile Exchange based on program
20192019 20202020 20212021 20192019 20202020 20212021 20192019 20202020 20212021

Source:
Source: Textile
Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on SFA
on SFA Source:
Source: Textile
Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on WCS
on WCS Source:
Source: Textile
Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on on program
program
Source: Textile Exchange based on WCS Source: Textile Exchange based on program

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 46
Virgin animal fibers: Cashmere
Overview
In response to interest and queries from brands, Textile The Platform has four key objectives in its two-year
Exchange established the Responsible Cashmere Round Collection Action Plan:
Table (RCRT) in March 2019. The aim was to better
understand the issues and opportunities surrounding 1. To formulate and implement a collective action plan that
global cashmere production, as well as to have a collective addresses the root causes limiting the sustainability of
voice in the development of any market-based solutions. cashmere in Mongolia.
Since 2020, the RCRT is part of the new Animal Fibers 2. To influence and harmonize government policy that
Round Table (AFRT) which covers all animal fibers. Many ensures a strong and coherent legal and institutional
important topics for animal welfare and land management framework for sustainable cashmere in Mongolia.
cut across different animal species and fibers, so a single
Round Table gives all stakeholders access to relevant 3. To establish partnerships and coordinated investments
information, as well as the chance to collaborate and and actions that accelerate current efforts.
exchange knowledge. 4. To position Mongolia as a global leader for sustainable
cashmere.
Over two dozen global brands have signed a statement of
support for the establishment of the Mongolia Sustainable Textile Exchange is leading the Market Sector Advisory
Cashmere Platform (MSCP), a national-level umbrella (MSA) group, which brings together several cashmere
mechanism with collaborative leadership and facilitated by buyers that will provide valuable input and guidance into
the United Nations Development Program (UNDP). the work of the MSCP.

Photo: SFA

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 47
Virgin animal fibers: Alpaca
Production facts and figures
Alpaca fiber is the hair that has been gathered from Key standards
alpacas. Alpaca, a South American camelid, is native to
The Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS)—a voluntary
Peru. Historically, alpaca fiber was reserved for royalty
global standard that aims to address the welfare of
due to its fine micron range. Today, the majority of alpaca
alpacas, the land that they graze on and social welfare at
still live in the highlands or Peru at an average of 11,000
the farm level—was launched in April 2021.
to 16,000 feet (3,500 to 5,000 meters). About 4 million
alpacas live in Peru, with the other small percentage The first groups in Peru have been certified to RAS, but
residing in other countries such as Bolivia, Australia, UK, the certified alpaca fiber is already committed to specific
and the US. The vast majority of alpaca are classified supply chains. It will take time to build the volume of
under the Huacayo breed (95%), while the remaining are certified fiber such that it is available on the open market.
classified as Suri (5%). Huacayo fleece is the main variation
used in textile and knitwear production. The current supply Alpaca farming has a high animal welfare potential due
chain is centralized in Peru, where around 90% of the to a husbandry system based on extensive grazing and
processing is condensed through two main suppliers who free-ranging with animals adapted to their environment.
have vertically integrated processing operations. There The RAS was developed to ensure that this high welfare
are a number of smaller producer groups that operate potential is realized and to provide a mechanism to verify
independently. More than 90% of all fiber produced in Peru that alpaca fiber comes from responsible sources. The
comes from smallholder farmers. These farmers have on standard addresses farm-level animal welfare practices as
average 45 animals. This fiber is currently collected and well as land management and social welfare at the farm.
sold by middlemen and then processed by the two large Through production, chain of custody certification ensures
processors1. that the fiber from certified farms is properly identified and
tracked. The RAS will join the Responsible Animal Fiber
The global alpaca production volume was around 6,244 (RAF) framework along with the Responsible Wool and
tonnes in 20212. Mohair Standards. Visit the RAS website here.

1 Minagri, 2019. Potencial productivo y comercial de la alpaca. Link.


2 IWTO, 2022. Market Information. Edition 17. Link. Photo: Anna Heaton

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 48
Virgin animal fibers: Other
Production facts and figures
Additional animal fibers—apart from sheep, cashmere, Examples of initiatives
mohair and alpaca—includes angora rabbit, camel,
The Mongolian National Chamber of Commerce and
guanaco, llama, vicuna, and yak hair.
Industry announced in a press release the development
Angora wool is the hair of angora rabbits (not to be of a cluster to manufacture products from yak and camel
confused mohair which is the hair of the angora goat). wool as part of the European Union funded project Trade
90% of Angora is produced in China. Europe, Chile and the Related Assistance for Mongolia (EU TRAM).
US also produce smaller quantities. Several major brands
As part of a poverty alleviation project Orient Hongda
and retailers have banned Angora due to animal welfare
have also been working on sustainable yak farming
concerns.
encompassing environmental management, animal
Camel hair comes from camels. Major suppliers of camel welfare, and social factors.
hair are Mongolia, Tibet, Afghanistan, Iran, Russia, China,
New Zealand and Australia. Textile Exchange Member Action

Shokay is a social enterprise in China that works with


Guanaco, llama and vicuna are camelids mainly found in
farmers on the Tibetan plateau to promote yak wool.
South America. Their hair is used as fiber. While llamas are
raised domestically, guanacos and vicunas are two wild Textile Exchange has initiated research into yak farming
camelids, which are relatives to the llama and alpacas, and practices and how yak could fit into the Textile Exchange
live in the high alpine areas of the South American Andes. animal welfare framework.
They are usually caught from the wild to be shorn, thus
their extremely fine wool is very expensive.

Yak fiber is the hair of yaks which are mainly found in the
Himalayas and some areas of Mongolia and Central Asia.
Yak hair has been used in the Himalayan region for over a
thousand years and more recently has been introduced as
premium fiber in the international fashion industry.

Photo: Santosh Yonjan

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 49
tonnes ton
High mulesing risk (ND)
24 (24%)

Recycled wool
Others 805,966 (78%)

Production facts and figures Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO Source: Textile Exchange based on Awex

Recycled wool has a long tradition. With an estimated Textile Exchange Member Action Recycled wool
production volume of around 70 thousand tonnes1, the Global recycled wool market share 2021
market share of recycled wool is estimated at around 6% Datini Fibres offers
GlobalGRS-certified post-consumer
recycled wool market share 2021 recycled
of the total wool market2. wool fibers under the brand name OON by Datini. Read Recycled 70,001 (6%)
more in the Supplier Mapping.
The Italian district of Prato is a major producer of recycled
wool, where approximately 22,000 tonnes of wool are Geetanjali Woollens is a 40-year-old company that has
recycled every year3. Other major production centers for been recycling post-consumer clothing for as many years.
wool recycling are Panipat, India and China. It's Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. Geetanjali
Woollens offers—amongst other recycled fibers—recycled 1,103,928
tonnes
Recycled standards sheep wool and recycled cashmere. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping.
The key standards for recycled wool are the Recycled
Claim Standard (RCS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS), WeTurn offers GRS-certified recycled wool yarn produced
in collaboration with a network of partner companies. Read Virgin 1,033,927 (94%)
and Cardato Recycled for recycled wool from Prato in Italy.
more in the Supplier
Source: Mapping.
Textile Exchange based on IWTO and maia research
Please see the page on Sustainability Standards for more Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and Maia Research

information.
Terms of use : Please inform us for which project you are using
Tip: How tothefind
data via this form (link)of recycled wool.
suppliers
Contact : Please contact pfmr@textileexchange.org for any
Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list
questions.

of RCS- and GRS-certified suppliers. The Cardato


Recycled website provides a list of certified recycled
wool suppliers from Prato.

1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Recycled Wool Market Report 2021. Customized report.
2 IWTO, 2022. Market Information. Edition 16. Link.
3 Cardato, 2015. Website. Link.

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 50
Commitments to preferred wool
Examples
An increasing number of brands and retailers are Kathmandu has committed to sourcing 100% RWS wool by Further brands that have made public commitments to
committed to preferred wool, such as RWS, organic, or 2025. Read more here. the RWS are William-Sonoma, Inc., Eddie Bauer, REI,
recycled wool. Tchibo, Varner, Coyuchi, Mountain Equipment Company,
Kmart Australia has the target that 100% of wool used in Kathmandu, and KnowledgeCotton Apparel. Among
Examples of public commitments by Textile their own Kmart-branded (Anko) clothing and bedding companies that have expressed support of the standard
Exchange members will be either: farms certified under the RWS or equivalent and are working toward implementation are LL Bean,
standard; or farms that are fully traceable and verified Indigenous Designs, and prAna.
Allbirds has committed to sourcing 100% regenerative as non-mulesed; or from recycled wool materials by July
wool by 2025. Read more here. 2023. Other examples
Arc’teryx is working to transition its wool supply to the Lindex has committed to 100% either RWS-certified, Deckers Outdoor has set a target to use 100% recycled or
RWS. Read more here. recycled or derived from responsible agricultural practices RWS-certified wool by 2022. Read more here.
by 2025. Read more here.
Armedangels uses organic raw wool which is RWS-
certified. Read more here. Marks & Spencer have committed to use 50% recycled,
RWS-certified or organic wool by 2025. Read more here. Make a Standards Commitment
BESTSELLER has committed to sourcing 100% RWS by
2025. Read more here. Whether you have already made a commitment to
Norrona uses only third-party verified and traceable or
one or more of Textile Exchange’s Standards, or
RWS-certified wool and plans to have 100% of its wool
DK Company has committed to sourcing 100% of its wool you want to share a new one, you may use this form
RWS-certified or reprocessed. Read more here.
in line with industry best practise, for example, RWS. Read to register details of your commitment(s).
more here. Patagonia is committed to 100% RWS as a baseline
requirement. All the wool in their products is RWS-
Eileen Fisher has published the objective that all suppliers
certified, from farm to finished product. Read more here.
will source wool that meets the RWS. Read more here.
Ralph Lauren committed in 2019 that 100% of its wool will
Esprit has made the commitment that 50% of their wool
be RWS-certified or recycled by 2025. Ralph Lauren is also
will be certified according to the RWS by 2022. Read more
committed to 100% Sustainable Fiber Alliance-certified
here.
cashmere in 2025. Read more here.
H&M is committed to using 100% RWS-certified, recycled
Target said that by July 2023, 100% of wool used in its own
or regenerative wool in their products by the end of 2025.
Target-branded clothing and bedding will be either from
Read more here.
farms certified under the RWS or equivalent standard, from
IKEA committed to transforming all wool to 100% RWS by farms fully traceable and verified as non-mulesed, or from
2025. Read more here. recycled wool materials.

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 51
Animal Fibers & Materials:

Animal Fibers & Materials

Silk

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 52


Silk | Material Production Dashboard / Animal

A global overview
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Silk Leather
Another important animal-based fiber is silk. Even Textile Exchange Member Action
though the market share is small, it's estimated Silk production in 2021
that around 300,000 households are involved in theGlobal silk production Takihyo, a Japanese company, has started an Eri Silk
(million tonnes) Silk production in 2021

production of raw silk .


1 project that provides 0.17
additional income
0.17 to support
0.17 cassava
Others 7,162 (4%)
farmers in 0.16Thailand. The cassava plants are cultivated for

In 2021, around 79% of all silk was produced in China. The 0.14 their roots, an important source of food, and the leaves
India 30,000 (17%)

second-largest producer was India, with a market share of of the plants are used to feed the silkworms. The fecal
17%. This means that China and India together produced byproduct is used as fertilizer for cultivating the cassava
around 96% of all silk worldwide in 20212. plants, and the pupa can be sold as food, for cosmetics, or 173,162
medicine once the silk is harvested. tonnes
Around 173,162 tonnes of raw silk were produced in 2021.2
Silk production volumes more than doubled from 1990 to Waschbär GmbH supports and owns 50% of Sichuan
2019 but saw a decrease over the last five years.2 OTEX Textiles, producing around 30 tonnes of organic silk
China 136,000 (79%)
filament in China a year.
Silk programs include organic standards such as the Indian 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 Source: Textile Exchange based on FAOSTAT

National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP), the Source: Textile Exchange based on FAOSTAT Note: 2021 numbers
Source:estimated by Textile
Textile Exchange Exchange
based on FAOSTAT

Organic Content Standard (OCS), and the Global Organic Note: 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange

Textile Standard (GOTS). Certified Wildlife Friendly®


and the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO) are other
options. For recycled silk, the Global Recycled Standard
(GRS) and the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) can be
used.

1 DNFI, 2020. Website. Link.


2 FAOSTAT

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Silk PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 53
Animal Fibers & Materials:

Animal Fibers & Materials

Leather

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 54


| Material Production Dashboard
2005 / Animal
2010 | Material
2015 Production
2020 Dashboard
2021 / Animal 2005 2010 2015

Virgin leather
Leather (cattle) Leather (sheep) Leather (goat) Leather (buffalo) Leather (sheep) Leather (goat) Leat

Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source : Textile Exchange based on FAO
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down
Wool Mohair & Silk
Cashmere Leather
Down Silk
A global overview
Global hides production (in million tonnes) Global leather
Global hides production (in million tonnes)production (number of hides in million) Global share
leather of
production (number of hides in million)
Global market the Leather Working Group (LWG)
Overview Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle
Global leather production—measured in weight of fresh 12.5 12.5 12.5
1,328
12.5 1,406 1,406
% of global finished leather in 2021
1,328
Globalproduction
leather production:
11.2 Fresh hides 1,244
by type in 2021
11.5
11.2 Global leather 11.5
hides—was more than 12.5 million tonnes in 20211. The 10.4 Fresh hides by type in 2021 10.4
1,188 1,188
1,244

hides and skins of over 1.4 billion animals were used for | Material Production Dashboard / Animal | Material Production Dashboard / Animal
Leather (buffalo) 0.81 (6%)
leather production in 2021.1 Leather (goat)
1.23 (10%)

Cattle hides were the most-used type of hides with 8.5 Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down
Wool Silk& Cashmere
Mohair Leather
Down
million tonnes in 2021, accounting for around two thirds of 29%
Leather (sheep)
the leather production. China was the largest producer of Global hides production (in million tonnes)
1.92 (15%) 12.48 Global
Global hides production leather tonnes)
(in million production (number of hides in million)

million
12.5 tonnes 12.5
cattle hides accounting for 16% of the global cattle hides 12.5
1,328
1,406
12.5 1,406
11.5 11.5
11.2
production in 2021, followed by the US with 13%, Brazil with 10.4 10.4
11.2
1,188
1,244

2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 2005 2010 2005 2015 2010 2020 2015 2021 2020 2021 2005 2010 2015
12%, and Argentina with 6%. Leather (buffalo) Leather (cattle) Leather (goat) Leather (sheep) Leather (buffalo) Leather Leather
Leather (cattle) (buffalo)(goat)
Leather (cattle)
Leather Leather (goat)
(sheep) Leather (sheep) Leather (buffalo) Leather (cattle) Lea
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source
Source: Textile Exchange based : Textile Exchange based on FAO
on FAO Source : Textile Exchange based on FAO
Sheep hides were the second most used type of hides with Note: 2021
Note : 2021 numbers numbers
estimated estimated
by Textile by Textile Exchange
Exchange Leather
Note (cattle) 8.52
: 2021 numbers (68%)
Note
estimated by: Textile
2021 numbers
Exchangeestimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange

a production of around 1.9 million tonnes in 2021. Largest Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
producers were China with 32%, Australia with 8%, and Overview Buffalo Goat
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
Sheep Cattle
Overview
Global market share of the Leather Working Group (LWG)
Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle
Source:Global
Textilemarket
Exchange
share based on the Leather
of the Leather Working Working Group
Group (LWG)

New Zealand with 4% of the global sheep hides production.


Fresh hides
% ofby
globalcountry
finished leather in 2021
in 2021 % of global finished leather in 2021
Cattle Sheep
Fresh hides by country in 2021 Fresh hides by country in 2021
Cattle
Leather Working Group
Sheep 5.4 (22%)
Goat hides were the third most-used type of hides and had
China 1.34 (16%)
a production volume of 1.2 million tonnes in 2021. Largest 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 2005 2005
2010 2010
2015 2015
2020 2020
2021 2021
Leather (buffalo) Leather (cattle) Leather (goat) Leather (sheep) Leather (buffalo)Leather
Leather (cattle) Leather (goat) Leather (sheep)
ChinaLeather (buffalo) Leather (cattle) (goat) Leather (sheep)
producers were China with 37%, Pakistan with 10%, and 0.62 (32%)
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source
Source: Textile Exchange based: Textile
on FAO Exchange based on FAO So
India with 8% of the global goat hides production. Note : 2021 numbers estimated United States
by Textile
1.13 (13%)
Exchange Note : 2021 numbersNote 22%
: 2021bynumbers
estimated estimated by Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange 22%No
8.52 Others 1.00 (52%)
1.92
Others 4.53 (53%) million tonnes million tonnes
Buffalo hides accounted for around 0.8 million tonnes in Global market share of the Leather Working Group (LWG) G
Overview Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle Overview Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle
2021. The largest producers were India with 44%, China Brazil 1.01 (12%)
% of global finished leather in 2021 %
Goat Buffalo Australia 0.15 (8%)
with 24%, and Pakistan with 18% of the global buffalo hides Fresh hides by country in 2021
Conventional/unknown
Fresh hides by country in 2021
19 (78%)
Conventional/unknown
19 (78%)
Leather Working Group
Goat Buffalo
New Zealand 0.08 (4%)
Argentina 0.51 (6%)
production volume.1 5.4 (22%)
Others 0.09 (11%)
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
Nepal 0.03 (4%)
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile
Source: Exchange
Textile Exchange based on the Leather Working Group Source: Textile Exchange based on the Leather Working Group

China 0.46 (37%)


Others 0.48 (39%)

Pakistan 0.15 (18%)


22%India 0.35 (44%)
1.23 0.81
million tonnes million tonnes

Conventional/unknown
19 (78%)
Bangladesh 0.07 (5%) Pakistan 0.12 (10%)
China 0.19 (24%)
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO India 0.10 (8%)

Note: 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange


1 FAOSTAT. Accessed June 2022. Link. Including fresh cattle hides, buffalo hides, goat skins, Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile
Source: Textile Exchange
Exchange based on the Leather Working Group S
and sheep skins. Other types of hides and skins not included. 2020 data used as estimate for
2021 as 2021 data were not yet available at report launch.
2 FAOSTAT. Accessed June 2022. Link.

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 55
| Material Production Dashboard / Animal

Virgin Leather Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down


A global overview | Material Production Dashboard / Animal
Global hides production (in million tonnes)
Concerns about animal welfare and environmental impacts with stakeholders to evaluate standards and programs 12.5 12.5
Wool
Global Mohair (in
hides production & Cashmere
million tonnes) Down
of livestock and leather production have led to increasing for inclusion in LIA, so brands have confidence knowing 11.5
11.2
awareness and demand for more sustainable leather. they are delivering impact and making clear and credible 10.4
Global hides production (in million tonnes) Global leather production

claims. LIA was launched in January 2021 and was piloted 11.5
12.5 12.5

The Responsible Leather Round Table over the year; the first Impact Partnership Incentives were 10.4
11.2
1,188

sold from Produzindo Certo in Brazil to H&M, Ralph Lauren


In 2017, Textile Exchange began an initiative to focus
and Capri Holdings. For more information about the Impact
on leather in response to demand from brands. Textile
Incentives please see chapter on Impact Incentives. For
Exchange has pulled together over 400 stakeholders from
more information about LIA, visit https://textileexchange.
all parts of the industry, including brands, farmers, and
org/leatherimpactaccelerator.
suppliers, as well as NGOs, international organizations,
and special interest groups. In 2018, the Responsible | Material
Spotlight on Production
deforestation Dashboard / Animal 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 2005
Leather Round Table (RLRT) was launched, a platform 2005 Leather (cattle) Leather (sheep) Leather (goat) Leather (buffalo)
2010 2015 2020 2021 Leat

where everyone can participate, share information and Globally, the conversion of forests to cattle pasture Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
Leather (cattle) Leather (sheep) Leather (goat) Leather (buffalo)
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
Source : Textile Exchange b
Note : 2021 numbers estima

contribute to a collective action towards tackling the resulted in an estimated 45.1 million hectares of Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO So
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down numbers estimated by TextileSilk
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
Leather No
industry’s impacts on climate, environment, people and deforestation between 2001 and 2015. Forest area replaced Note : 2021Note: Exchange
2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange Global market share of the
| Material Production Dashboard / Animal Overview Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle
% of global finished leather i
animals. Since then, the RLRT has been an active space by cattle accounts for 36% of all agriculture-linked tree Global leather production
Fresh hides by type in 2021 of hides in million)
where stakeholders can connect through webinars and Global the hides production
cover (in million tonnes)
loss worldwide.1 Global leather production (number
G
12.5 12.5 Overview BuffaloLeather (buffalo) 0.81 (6%) Goat Sheep
1,406 1,406 Cattle
Round Table summits to develop a shared understanding Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Leather (goat)Silk Leather %
Global leatherGlobal leather 1.23 (10%)production (in million hides)
1,328
11.2
11.5 production
of the leather industry, along with the challenges and Fresh hides by type in 2021
1,188
1,244
10.4 Global hides production (in million tonnes) Global leather production (number of hides in million)
opportunities. This has led to the development of the Call to action 12.5 12.5
Leather (sheep)
1,406 1,406
Leather (buffalo) 0.81 (6%) 12.48 1,328
Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA). 11.2
11.5
Leather
1,188
1.92 (15%)
(goat)
1,244 million tonnes
Join the Responsible10.4 Leather Round Table and 1.23 (10%)

The Leather Impact Accelerator explore the use of Impact Incentives to provide
direct financial support to farmers that meet Leather (cattle) 8.52 (68%)
The Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) is a program Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) deforestation/ Leather (sheep)
1.92 Exchange
Source: Textile (15%) based on FAO 12.48
developed by Textile Exchange to address all the major conversion-free (DCF) and/or Animal Welfare Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange million tonnes Source: Textile Exchange b

sustainability challenges throughout the bovine leather requirements.


supply chain; from farm to finished leather. In its first
version, LIA focuses on deforestation/conversion- free 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021
2005 2010 2015 Leather (cattle)
2020Leather (sheep) Leather
2021 (goat) Leather (buffalo) 2005 2010(sheep) Leather (goat)
Leather 2015 2020
Leather (cattle) Leather (buffalo) 2021
(DCF) and animal welfare at farm level, environmental and Leather (cattle) Leather (sheep) Leather
Source: Textile Exchange(goat) Leather (buffalo)
based on FAO Source : Textile
Leather
Leather
(sheep)
Exchange (cattle) 8.52
based onLeather
FAO (68%)
(goat) Leather (cattle) Leather (buffalo)
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
social risks at leather processing. LIA is not a standardSource: Textile Exchange based on FAO Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
Source: Textile
: Textile Exchange based
Source Exchange based onon FAOFAO
but a set of six tools that identifies and leverages existing
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021Source:
numbers
Note : 2021 numbers
Textile Exchange
estimated based
by Textile
estimated by Textile Exchange
on FAO
Exchange
Global market share of the Leather Working Group (LWG) S
Overview Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle Note: 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
solutions along the supply chain. Textile Exchange works % of global finished leather in 2021
Global leather production
Fresh hides by type in 2021
Global market share of the Leather Working Group (LWG)
Overview Buffalo Goat Sheep
Leather (buffalo) 0.81 (6%) Cattle Leather Working Group
% of global finished leather in 2021 29%
Leather (goat)
Global leather production 1.23 (10%)

1 WRI website. Accessed in July 2022. Link. Fresh hides by type in 2021

Leather (buffalo) 0.81 (6%) Leather (sheep)


29% Leather Working Group
1.92 (15%) 12.48 29%
Leather (goat) million tonnes
1.23 (10%)
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 56

Leather (sheep)
Leather (cattle) 8.52 (68%) 29% Conventional/unknown 71%
Virgin leather
Standards and certification systems
The adoption of standards and certification systems helps STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification for tanneries
the industry to ensure compliance with sets of criteria and Global market share of the
acknowledge good industry practice. First tanneries were STeP by OEKO-TEX®-certified in Leather Working Group (LWG)

22+78+F
2022.
(% of global finished leather in 2021)1
The different standards and certification systems
significantly vary in terms of their requirements, their Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) for sheep skin and
approach to assurance—ranging from self-declaration to leather
third-party audits—as well as degrees of traceability and The release of RWS 2.0 in March 2020 introduced a new
oversight through the supply chain. Some are active in only optional slaughter module. Where this module is applied
certain regions or markets and others focus in on particular and the chain of custody is maintained, claims about the
impact areas. RWS origin of sheep skin and leather can be made.
29%
For leather, most standards cover the processing. The use
of standards on the animal production level is not yet very
common but increasingly seen as important.

The Leather Working Group (LWG) for manufacturing


facilities The Leather Working Group: ~29% (7.4) billion square feet)
Other: ~71% (18 billion square feet)
The Leather Working Group (LWG), formed in 2005, is a
multi-stakeholder group with over 1,800 members that
offers a suite of auditing tools to assess the environmental
performance of leather manufacturing facilities
and certifies those that meet its standards. In 2021,
approximately 4.7 billion square feet of wet blue leather
and around 7.4 billion square feet of finished leather were
produced in the 989 leather production facilities audited
by LWG. The market share of LWG leather increased from
around 22% of the global total finished leather production
in 2020 to 29% in 20211.

1 LWG, 2022. Email correspondence. Global leather production estimated based on FAO
and further sources. 2020 is referring to the 2020/21 LWG year and 2021 to the 2021/22 LWG
year.

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 57
Recycled leather
Overview
Around 800 thousand tonnes of leather waste is produced Other suppliers
annually1. Recycled leather—leather cut post use and then
RenTec.one is using leather waste for the creation of
re-purposed—and bonded recycled leather fiber materials,
non-woven and woven fabrics. Read more in the Supplier
play a role in diverting materials from the waste stream.
Mapping.
Bonded recycled leather fiber materials are mainly made
Sustainable Composites has developed a material made
from pre-consumer production scraps, consisting of
with waste leather converted into RCS-certified leather
recycled leather fibers and binders, or recycled leather
fiber-based sheets or rolls which contain between 60% and
fibers attached to the surface of a synthetic material.
80% recycled material content. Read more in the Supplier
The European Outdoor Group (EOG) published a Recycled Mapping.
Leather report in 2019 that aims to support industry
professionals to better understand recycled leather as
alternative to virgin leather.

Textile Exchange Member Action

Nike Flyleather is an engineered material made by binding


at least 50% reclaimed leather fibers together, combined
with synthetic materials, using a water-powered process.

Spinnova and KT Trading—the leather partner to global


shoe brand ECCO—announced their new partnership to
produce Respin, a fiber made from leather waste. The pilot
scale production has been completed at the end of 2021.

1 UNIDO 2000—Wastes generated in the leather products industry. Photo: Sustainable Composite, enspire leather®

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 58
Commitments to preferred leather
Examples
A growing number of companies are committed to Investor groups, environmental groups and consumers Commitments to more responsible leather processing
using preferred leather, defined as leather with more already focus on how the beef industry can help meet
Several companies also started to set targets for more
sustainable properties at farming level (deforestation- the SDGs, particularly SDG 15 “Life on Land” and SDG
responsible leather processing. Several companies have,
free, animal welfare considerations) and processed more 13 “Climate Action,” through eliminating deforestation
for example, set a target to source 100% of their leather
responsibly (better environmental and social management and following improved grazing practices. Leather is
from Leather Working Group (LWG) certified suppliers.
in production facilities, the use of more sustainable linked to the same impacts; cross-sectoral learning and
processing technologies). collaboration with the beef industry is the best option
Examples of public commitments by Textile
to accelerate changes required to meet the SDGs. The
Exchange members
Commitments to biodiversity, animal welfare and Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) tool, which is being
deforestation-free leather developed by Textile Exchange, supports the industry Adidas, Bestseller, Burberry, Chanel, Everybody &
to drive progress towards the SDGs goals through the Everyone, FashionCube, Gant, H&M, Inditex, Kering,
75 fashion brands have signed a pledge called the G7
leather value chain. Gap, Nike, Nordstrom, Puma, PVH, Selfridges, Stella
FashionPact by March 20221. The commitment is built on
McCartney and others have signed the G7 FashionPact
three pillars: climate, biodiversity, and oceans. All signing Several large corporations have strong animal welfare commitment as of April 2021.
brands should develop strategies connected to each pillar. policies that cover all their animal-derived fibers and
The biodiversity pillar includes animal welfare as one of the materials. To ensure that these policies are indeed H&M, Timberland, Vans, and VF Corporation are
aspects to consider in their strategy. implemented in the supply chains, good knowledge of committed to deforestation-free leather and put a
the actors in the company's supply chain and robust temporary ban on leather from Brazil in 2019. This ban is
Companies are starting to make efforts to eliminate
management systems are required. in response to the fires in the Amazon area which are also
deforestation from their supply chains, and are working
linked to the cattle production.
with global references, such as the Accountability Textile Exchange’s LIA tool was launched in 2021 and
Framework. Commitments related to the UNFCCC, piloted over the year. The program supports the industry ASOS is committed to only sourcing leather from tanneries
Fashion Pact, New York Declaration on Forests, to drive progress towards the SDGs with a focus on that have a LWG audit. Read more here.
Amsterdam Declaration Partnership, and the Consumer deforestation and animal welfare at the farm level of the
Goods Forum Zero Net Deforestation Commitment are Ralph Lauren committed to sourcing from 100% LWG-
leather value chain.
further examples. Eliminating deforestation and improving certified leather suppliers by 2025. Read more here.
grazing practices can also be important measures to
Ted Baker has set the target that 100% of their leather is to
contribute to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).
come from LWG- or equivalent-certified tanneries by 2025.
As the number of commitments to the SDGs is increasing, Read more here.
a collaboration between the leather and beef industry is
VF Corporation has committed to 100% of its footwear
expected to accelerate the progress made.
leather to be from LWG-audited tanneries. Read more
here.

1 The Fashion Pact, 2022— website. Link.

CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 59
Manmade Cellulosic Fibers

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 60


MMCF

Global market share of MMCFs in 2021 Global MMCF production by type in 2021

Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers| Material Production Dashboard / MMCF MMCF 7 (6%)
| Material Production
Lyocell Dashboard
0.3 (4%) / MMCF
Production facts and figures Acetate 0.9 (13%)

MMCF
MMCF
With an annual production volume of around 7.2 million Modal had a market share of around 3% of the total MMCF
tonnes, manmade cellulosics fibers (MMCFs) had a market in 2021 with a production of around 0.2 million
113 Global market share of MMCFs in 2021
7.24
Global market share of MMCFs in 2021
Globa
market share of about 6% of the total fiber production Global market1 share of MMCFs in 2021
tonnes. Global MMCF production by type in 2021
million tonnes
million tonnes
MMCF 7 (6%) MMCF 7 (6%)
volume1. Lyocell 0.3 (4%)

Cupro had a market share of around 0.2% of the total Acetate 0.9 (13%)

With 7.2 million tonnes in 2021, the MMCF production MMCF market. There was only one supplier of cupro Viscose (rayon)
volume slightly exceeded the pre-COVID-19 production producing around 0.02 million tonnes in 2021. 5.8 (80%)

volume of 7.1 million tonnes in 2019, after a decline to 6.5 113 7.24
Other fibers 105 (94%)
Manmade cellulosic fibersmillion aretonnes
currently primarily produced 113Viscose (rayon)
million tonnes
million tonnes in 2020.1 million tonnes
Acetate Lyocell Modal Cupro
Source : Textilefrom wood.
Exchange basedLess
on maiathan 1%and
research is global
currently made from recycled or
data compilation

The global MMCF production volume has more than


| Material Production Dashboard / MMCF
other alternative feedstock.
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
Viscose (rayon)
5.8 (80%)

doubled from around 3 million tonnes in 1990 to Other fibers 105 (94%)
Viscose (rayon) Acetate Lyocell Modal Cupro
approximately 7.2 million tonnes in 2021, and is expected Source : Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Source: Textile ExchangeGlobalon MMCF
based Other
maiafibersproduction
research by feedstock in 2021
MMCF
105 (94%)
to further grow in the coming years.1 | Material Global MMCF Production production Dashboard / MMCF
(million tonnes)
7.2
7.1 Source : Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
Sour
6.7
6.5 6.5 0.9
MMCFs include viscose, acetate, lyocell, modal, and cupro. Global MMCF production (million tonnes) 0.9 Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation
Global MMCF production by feedstock in 2021
0.9 0.9
0.9
MMCF
7.1 7.2
Global market share of MMCFs in 2021 6.7 Global MMCF production by type in 2021
Viscose is the most important MMCF, with a market share 6.5
0.9
0.9 6.5 0.9
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Globa
0.9
MMCF 7 (6%)
0.9
Conventional/unknown
of around 80% of all MMCFs and a production volume of Lyocell 0.3 (4%)
2.86 (40%)
7.1 7.2
Conventional/unknownGlobal MMCF production by type
6.7 in 2021
around 5.8 million tonnes in 2021.1 Global market share of MMCFs in 2021 Global MMCF 6.5production by type in 2021 6.5 0.9
7.24
2.86 (40%) 0.9
Acetate 0.9 (13%)
0.9
MMCF 7 (6%) 0.9
7.24
Lyocell 0.3 (4%)
0.9

Acetate has a market share of around 13% of all MMCFs 5.1 5.1 5.3 5.3
5.6
5.6
5.2 5.2 5.8
5.8
million tonnes million tonnes
with a production of approximately 0.9 million tonnes in Acetate 0.9 (13%) FSC/PEFC 4.34 (60%) FSC/PEF

2021,1 but it is mainly used for non-textile applications.2


113 Recycled (total)
0.03 (0%)
7.24 5.8
Recycled
5.6
million (total)
tonnes
Lyocell was the third most used MMCF type after viscose
2017
million tonnesViscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro Acetate
113 2019
2018 2019 2020 2021 5.1 5.3
7.24
0.03 (0%)
5.2

2017 2018 2020 2021 Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and other million tonnes
and acetate in 2021. It had a market share of around 4% of Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
million tonnes additional sources
Viscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro Acetate
all MMCFs in 2021 with a production volume of around 0.3 Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and other additional sources
Viscose (rayon)
million tonnes.1 Forest programs
Source: (million
Textile ha) andbased
Exchange % of total forestResearch
on Maia area
2017 2018 2019 2020
Viscose (80%) 2021
5.8(rayon)
Viscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro 5.8
Acetate
(80%)
4,069 4,064 4,064 4,064
Other fibers 105 (94%) Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Sour
Other fibers 105 (94%)
Viscose (rayon)
Viscose (rayon) Acetate LyocellModal
Acetate Lyocell Modal
CuproCupro
Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area
Source : Textile Exchange based on :maia
Source Textileresearch
Exchangeand global
based data
on maia compilation
research and global data compilation Source:Source:
Textile Textile
Exchange based
Exchange on on
based maia
maiaresearch
research
4,069 4,064 4,064 4,064 Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and other additional sources
Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area

4,069 4,064 4,064 4,064

Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Global MMCF production by feedstock in 2021
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Global MMCF production by feedstock in 2021
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Manmade Cellulosic Fiber Market Report 2022 (customized 11%7.1 11% 7.2 11%
report).
6.5 10% 7.16.7 0.9 6.5 7.2 0.9
2 More information on the applications by fiber is available in the Report Scope: Beyond 6.7 2018 0.9 20196.5 2020 2021
6.5 0.9
0.9
0.9 0.9
Apparel section of this report. Certified (total) FSC and/or PEFC Others % of Forest Area
0.9 0.9
0.9
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO, FSC, and PEFC Conventional/unknown
2.86 (40%)
Conventional/unknown
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers 11% 11% 11% 2.86 (40%)
PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS
11% MARKET
11% REPORT
7.24 11% 61
Global market share of MMCF production capacity with CanopyStyle Shirts in 2021
5.6 5.8 million tonnes
7.24
5.1 5.3 5.2
10% Not yet assessed 4% 10% FSC/PEFC 4.34 (60%)
Newly engaged and acting 10%
2018 2019 2020 2021 2018 2019 2020 2021
5.6 5.8 Dark Green Shirt
5.6 5.8
5.1 5.3 5.2
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Global MMCF production by fe

7.1 7.2
6.7
6.5 0.9 6.5 0.9
0.9 0.9
0.9

Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Conventional/unknown
2.86 (40%
Viscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro Acetate
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research

Standards for feedstock


5.6 5.8
5.1 5.3 5.2

Recyc

The market share of FSC- and/or PEFC-certified MMCFs of the certified forest was certified according to PEFC 2017
Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area
2018
Viscose (rayon) Modal
2019
Lyocell Cupro
2020
Acetate
2021

increased from around 55-60% in 2020 to around 60-65% and its equivalents in 2021, with almost half of this being 4,069 Forest programs (ha and % of total
4,064 forest area)
4,064
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research 4,064
Source: Textile Exchange based

of all MMCFs in 20211. SFI-certified. Approximately 6% of all forests were FSC-


| Material Production Dashboard / MMCF certified. Due to the double certification of around 3% of all Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area

FSC, founded in 1993, is an international member-led forests, 11 (and not 14) % of all forests were certified to FSC
4,069 4,064 4,064 4,064

organization that sets standards for responsible forest and/or PEFC.4


management and chain of custody. The first FSC-certified MMCF
fabrics were produced by the fiber producer ENKA and In March 2022, PEFC and FSC announced the ban of
the fabric manufacturer
Global market share of MMCFs in 2021
Ghezzi S.p.a in 2017. First textile certified wood from Russia and Belarus. Because of the
Global MMCF production by type in 2021
products with consumer-facingMMCF FSC labels
7 (6%)
hit the market association of the forest sector in Russia and Belarus with 11% 11% 11% 11% 11% 11%
Lyocell 0.3 (4%)
in 2020. In the beginning of 2021, 8 companies had FSC- armed invasion, no FSC-certified material or controlled
10%
10% 2018 2019 2020 2021
Acetate 0.9 (13%)
labelled garments in the market. Read more in the Supplier wood from these countries will be permitted to be traded.5 2018 Certified (total) FSC and/or PEFC
2019 Others % of Forest Area
2020 2021
Source:Certified (total)
Textile Exchange based FSC
on FAO,and/or
FSC, and PEFC
PEFC Others % of Forest Area
Mapping. PEFC announced that all timber originating from Russia
and Belarus is "conflict timber" and therefore can't be used Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO, FSC, and PEFC
PEFC, founded in 1999, is113 a global alliance of national forest 7.24 Global market share of MMCF production capacity with CanopyStyle Shirts in 2021

in PEFC-certified products. 6
million tonnes Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO, FSC, PEFC, and SFI Not yet assessed 4%
million tonnes
certification systems and the largest forest certification Newly engaged and acting 10%

Dark Green Shirt 27%


system worldwide. Since the launch of the world's first First MMCFs have also been certified according to Textile Global market share of MMCF production capacity with CanopyStyle Shirts in 2021

PEFC-certified fabrics in 2018, the number of certified Exchange's Organic Content Standard Viscose (OCS). The OCS is
(rayon) Red Shirt 13% Not yet assessed 4%
5.8 (80%)
Forest programs in 2021 (haNewly
and % ofand
engaged total
actingforest
10% area)
textile companies is increasing. Read more in the Supplier an international, voluntary standard that sets requirements
Other fibers 105 (94%)
Mapping. for third-party certification of certified
Viscose (rayon) Acetate organic
Lyocell Modal Cupro input and Orange Red Shirt 4%

Source : Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
chain of custody.
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
PEFC ≈ 328 (8%) Medium Green Shirt 17%
Overall, the share of the global forest area certified to Red Shirt 13%
SFI ≈ 142 (3%) FSC ≈ 230 (6%)
Light Green Orange Red Shirt 19%

FSC and/or PEFC has increased from around 1% of all Light Green Shirt 6%

Global MMCF production (million tonnes) GlobalbyMMCF


Global MMCF production feedstock inproduction
2021 by feedstock in 2021
forests in 2000 to around 11% in 2021.2,3 With a market Source: Textile Exchange based on Canopy

7.2
share of 11.38%6.7in 2021, this is a slight increase compared
7.1 Orange Red Shirt 4%
6.5 0.9 6.5 0.9
to the 0.9
market share 0.9 of 11.18% in 2020. 0.9 In total, around 8%

Conventional/unknown
2.86 (40%) 118 115 27 Light 68 135 Red Shirt 19%
Green Orange
3% 3% 1% 2% 3%
1 Textile Exchange estimates based on publicly available information and its own supplier 7.24 Light Green

mapping. million tonnes

SF
5.8

FS
5.6

PE

PE
SF
5.1 5.3 5.2 Source: Textile Exchange based on Canopy

I(

C
FC

FC
I(
FSC/PEFC 4.34 (60%)

PE

(w
2 Data received from FSC, PEFC, and SFI per email.

PE
(w

(w
FC

/o
FC
/o

/o

PE
3 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. 2021 figures not yet available at report launch and thus

en

en
FS

SF

FC
do

do
C

I)
2020 figures used as proxy.

rs
Recycled (total)

&
&

&
rs
ed

SF
SF

FS
ed
0.03 (0%)

)w
4 Based on FSC and PEFC press releases March 2022, and email correspondence with FSC,

)&

I)
I)

C
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021

/o

FS
PEFC and SFI.

FS
Viscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro Acetate

C
C
5 Textile
Source: FSC, Exchange
2022. Nobased
FSC material from Russia and Belarus until the invasion ends. Link.
on maia research Source:Source: Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange based onbased on Maia and
maia research Research and supplier
other additional information screening
sources

6 PEFC, 2021. Timber from Russia and Belarus considered "conflict timber". Link.
7 Maia Research, 2021. Global Recycled Manmade Cellulosic Fibers Market Report 2021.
Customized report.
Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area

4,069 4,064 4,064 4,064

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 62
11% 11% 11%

Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers 10%


2018 2019 2020 2021

Standards for feedstock Certified (total) FSC and/or PEFC Others % of Forest Area

Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO, FSC, and PEFC


The CanopyStyle Audits have become the leading
assessment of MMCF suppliers on their raw material Global market share of MMCF production capacity with CanopyStyle Greens Shirts in 2021
sourcing practices since the launch of the CanopyStyle
initiative in 2013 and the first audits in 2017. Global
In 2021, 53%share of MMCF production capacity with CanopyStyle Shirts in 2021
market
of the global MMCF supply has been awarded by "green
Not yet assessed 4%
shirts" in the 2021 Hot Button Report and Ranking. These
Newly engaged and acting 10%
producers have been audited and assessed as being at
low risk, or have taken substantive action to eliminate Dark Green Shirt 27%

known risks of sourcing MMCFs from ancient and


endangered forests. The market share of MMCF producers
Red Shirt 13%
committed to the CanopyStyle initiative through public
sourcing policies increased from around 35% of the global
production in 2015 to 90% in 2021. A summary of results is
published in the annual Hot Button Report.1
Orange Red Shirt 4%

Medium Green Shirt 17%


Tip: How to find suppliers of MMCFs with FSC
and/or PEFC feedstock—and CanopyStyle Light Green Orange Red Shirt 19%
audited fiber producers
Light Green Shirt 6%
Check out the FSC database or PEFC database
and the CanopyStyle Hot Button Report.Source:
A list Textile Exchange based on Canopy
of textile-related FSC and PEFC suppliers is also Source: Textile Exchange based on Canopy
included the Supplier Mapping.

1 Canopy, 2022. CanopyStyle Hot Button Report 2021. Link.

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 63
Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers
Standards for pulp and fiber
Pulp and fiber Further standards that can be used for the pulp and/
or fiber level include Cradle to Cradle Material Health
Bluesign has developed specific criteria for fiber
Certificate Standard, STeP by OEKO-TEX®, and the EU Eco
production that were added as Annex “Fiber
Label. Another option is the production in compliance with
Manufacturing” to its “bluesign® CRITERIA for production
the EU BREFs (BAT Reference Documents).
sites” in March 2020. The criteria for fiber manufacturing
are applicable for the manufacturing of synthetic fibers, For standards related to “recycled” MMCFs made see the
for example, polyester and polyamide, as well as MMCF. chapter on Recycled Manmade Cellulosics.
For MMCFs, this includes criteria for feedstock, pulp, and
fiber production. One MMCF supplier has already become
a bluesign® SYSTEM PARTNER and produces bluesign® Textile Exchange Member Action
APPROVED fibers.
By July 2022, Asahi Kasei Bemberg, Asia Pacific Rayon,
ZDHC has expanded the scope of its work to cover fiber Birla Cellulose, Century Rayon (Aditya Birla Grasim),
production to account for the environmental impact of Eastman, Lenzing, Sateri, and TreeToTextile were ZDHC
fibers. In April 2020, the ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Contributors.
Fibres (MMCF) Guidelines 1.0 were launched, together with
the ZDHC MMCF Responsible Fibre Production Guidelines
1.0, the ZDHC MMCF Interim Wastewater Guideline 1.0, and
Tip: How to find MMCF suppliers meeting pulp
the ZDHC MMCF Interim Air Emissions Guidelines 1.0. The
and fiber level standards.
initial focus of the guidelines is viscose and modal. The
guidelines give suppliers producing MMCF unified criteria Check out the Bluesign® System Partner List, the
for measuring output indicators like wastewater, sludge, ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Database, or explore the
air emissions, and other process-related parameters. They websites of the other standards mentioned above.
also offer an aligned approach for the recovery of Sulphur
compounds, part of the inputs, as well as by-products
generated during the production process. Fiber producers
are expected to engage on a continuous improvement
roadmap defined by three levels of foundational,
progressive and aspirational. Dissolving pulp production
process will be considered at a later stage.

Photo: Birla Cellulose

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 64
Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers
Supplier updates
Textile Exchange Member Action The joint demo plant of Itochu and Metsä Group with a
nominal capacity of about 500 tonnes per annum and with
Birla Cellulose worked on several sustainability initiatives the aim to demonstrate a new technology for converting
in the past years. In 2021, Birla Cellulose received a paper-grade pulp into textile fibers, is in operation since
“dark green shirt” again in the Canopy assessment. Birla late 2020. The textile fiber product name, Kuura, was
Cellulose claims that it maps 100% of its forest sources on launched in early 2021.
the traceability platform Greentrack™. Read more about
Birla's actions from building a circular business model to Sateri, part of the Royal Golden Eagle (RGE) Group,
reducing water consumption in this interview. together with Asia Pacific Rayon (APR), is the world’s
largest producer of viscose. In 2020, it began producing
Eastman launched Naia™, a di-acetate fiber made from lyocell as well. Its parent company, the Royal Golden Eagle
wood pulp from sustainably managed plantations and (RGE) has announced plans to invest $200 million USD
produced in a near closed-loop chemical process in 2017, over the next ten years into cellulosic textile fiber research
available as filament and since 2020 also as staple fiber. In and development including alternative feedstock.
2020, Eastman introduced Naia™ Renew, which combines
60% renewable wood pulp with 40% acetic acid sourced Sappi is a leading global provider of wood fiber products
from a variety of recycled waste material1. and solutions such as dissolving wood pulp. In 2022, the
Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) has approved
GP Cellulose GmbH operates four wood-pulp mills in the Sappi's target to reduce carbon emissions 41.5% per ton
US. Over a decade ago, GP began mapping endangered of product by 2030, as well as the commitment that 44%
forests within its key wood fiber supply regions. Once they of the suppliers by spend have science-based targets by
mapped an endangered forest, they committed not to buy 2026.
wood fiber from these areas.
TreeToTextile, owned by H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group,
Lenzing received a "dark green" shirt in the CanopyStyle Stora Enso, and LSCS Invest, is a company developing
2021 Hot Button Report. In 2022, Lenzing announced a new innovative chemical process—using forest raw
that it will switch to green electricity at its Chinese site as material and regenerating the cellulose into a textile fiber
well. Read more on Lenzing's actions from installing solar by spinning the dissolving pulp. Stora Enso will host
panels to circularly in this interview. TreeToTextiles's demonstration plant, a EUR 35 million
investment.

1 Naia™ Renew recycled content is achieved by an allocation of recycled waste material using
an ISCC-certified mass balance process. Photo: PEFC

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 65
Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers
Supporting the transition
Several initiatives are supporting the transition to preferred roadmap towards responsible viscose and modal fiber Forum for the Future, in collaboration with Textile
MMCFs. Collaboration and information are essential for manufacturing in 2018. In 2020, Changing Markets Exchange, launched the “MMCF 2030 Vision - A Vision for
successful uptake of preferred MMCFs. published its report "Dirty Fashion: Crunch time. Where building resilience and accelerating regeneration” report
does the industry stand on stamping out dirty viscose?". in 2020.
Call to action
The Collaboration for Sustainable Development of The German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles initiated
Join the Textile Exchange Manmade Cellulosics Round Viscose (CV), established in 2018, is a public governance a working group for manmade fibers and released the
Table. The aim of the MMCF Round Table is to bring the organization set up by viscose enterprises, upstream Joint Letter Viscose in April 2019, a call for commitment to
industry together, share knowledge and learning, and and downstream companies in the industry chain and sustainable MMCF production.
drive action. As of 2022, more than 50% of the global associations in China. CV is supported by the Social
MMCF supply has published the "Manmade Cellulosic Responsibility Office of the China Textile Industry GRETE, a consortium of the seven partners, coordinated
Transparency Questionnaire", developed by the MMCF Federation. As of September 2022, CV has a total of by VTT and funded under the European Union's Horizon
Round Table driven by industry demand. The suppliers 12 members (two industry associations and 10 MMCF 2020 from 2019 to 2023, aims to improve the existing
include APR, Birla Cellulose, Sateri, Tangshan Sayou, producers) and 163 downstream enterprises as members MMCF value chain by developing new technologies using
Yibin Grace. Other suppliers like Lenzing and Eastman of the industrial chain. In 2021, CV published its standard paper grade pulps, implementing novel green
have completed it and can provide the information upon Sustainability Report 2020 which reviews its Three-year technologies based on ionic liquid (IL) chemicals and
request. Action Plan on Green Development (2018-2020) as well as recovery process for cellulose dissolution with novel post-
progress in governance and continuous improvement in modification process.
Further initiatives
2020. It also includes the new CV Roadmap 2025 and the
The Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) released the
Canopy works with the forest industry’s biggest customers 2030/2050 sustainability vision.
Forest, Land and Agriculture (FLAG) Science Based Target
and their suppliers to develop business solutions that Setting Guidance, the world’s first standard method for
Earthworm (formerly The Forest Trust) has worked in value
address deforestation and protect forests. Read more companies in land-intensive sectors including the wood
chains of key raw materials linked to forests such as wood
about their CanopyStyle Audits and Hot Button Report, fiber industry to set science-based targets that include
and pulp since 1999. Over the years, Earthworm helped
and the CanopyStyle Commitments and Next Generation land-based emission reductions and removals. Read more
more than 60 companies to set up No Deforestation,
Vision. here.
Peat, and Exploitation (NDPE) policies and put them into
Challenge the Fabric (CTF), including the CTF Award, practice. With businesses and civil society, Earthworm
WWF, in partnership with H&M and FORESTS.AI have
is initiated by EKMAN & Co. and the Swedish Fashion innovated the High Carbon Stock (HCS) Approach—
developed the WoodAI App. The app can quickly identify
Council, in partnership with Altri, Arauco, Sanyou Group, paving the way for a concrete definition of deforestation. In
wood species with the help of a smartphone and macro
and Södra, with the aim to speed up the market for more 2020, Earthworm launched the Forest Conservation Fund.
lense. This can help companies to verify that the wood
sustainable MMCFs. In 2022, a CTF symposium was Companies can support the protection of an equivalent
they source is indeed from a certain species approved by
hosted in Paris. area to their tropical forest footprint by channeling funding
the company. The WoodAI App is currently pilot-tested by
of $40 per hectare—less than 2% of their cost of goods—to
H&M.
Changing Markets Foundation in collaboration with conservationists on the ground.
Earthworm (formerly The Forest Trust) launched a

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 66
“Recycled” manmade cellulosic fibers
Supplier updates
The market share of “recycled” MMCFs is estimated at Launched in 2020, the New Cotton Project is a three-year Circ (earlier called Tyton Biosciences)—see chapter on
around 0.5% of all MMCFs in 20211. But a lot of research multi-stakeholder project. Textile waste will be collected “Fiber Blend Recycling”.
and development is ongoing, so it is expected to increase and sorted and then chemically recycled into a new MMCF
significantly in the next years. that looks and feels like cotton—a “new cotton”—using Circular Systems has developed the Texloop
Infinited Fiber Company’s textile fiber regeneration technology which can mechanically recycle TENCEL™
Canopy estimates that recycling just 25% (5 million technology. lyocell. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
tonnes) of global pre- and post-consumer cotton textile
waste, plus 25% (1.6 million tonnes) of MMCF textile waste, MMCFs made from recycled textiles Evrnu is a US-based startup working on the
could replace all wood fiber currently used to manufacture commercialization of NuCycl™, an MMCF made from
dissolving pulp2. Aalto University’s Ioncell is a technology-in- discarded clothing and textile waste. Read more in the
development that turns used textiles, pulp, or even old Supplier Mapping.
Many of the “recycled” MMCFs are still in development. newspapers into new textile fibers using a novel solvent
The first commercially available MMCFs partially or wholly called ionic liquid. The commercial production start is GP Cellulose GmbH’s Cotton Linter Fiber Pulp is an
made from recycled materials use mainly cotton linter or planned for 2025. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. SCS Recycled Content Standard certified pulp made from
pre-consumer cotton textile residues as feedstock. cotton linters used for acetate. The production is powered
Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is pilot testing the production by 80% renewable energy. Read more in the Supplier
For MMCFs made from recycled materials, the Recycled of viscose made from recycled pre-and post-consumer Mapping.
Claim Standard (RCS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS) textiles. A production facility with a capacity of 12,000
and SCS Recycled Content Certification can be used. The tonnes is planned to convert cotton and cotton-rich textile The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel
first recycled MMCF suppliers have been RCS-certified. waste and viscose textile into feedstock for viscose. Read (HKRITA)—see chapter on Fiber Blend Recycling.
more in the Supplier Mapping.
Launched in September 2020, The Fashion for Good Infinited Fiber Company’s Infinna™ is a cellulose
initiated Full Circle Textiles Project: Scaling Innovations Asahi Kasei’s Bemberg™ is a cupro fiber made in Japan carbamate fiber currently created out of 100% post-
in Cellulosic Recycling—a first-of-its-kind consortium from 100% cotton linter, a pre-consumer residue of the consumer textile waste. A 30,000 tonnes flagship factory
project. Over an 18-month period, project partners cotton processing, and certified under the Recycled Claim in Finland is expected to be operation in 2024. Read more
will collaborate with innovators, Evrnu, Infinited Fiber Standard (RCS). The annual production capacity is around in the chapter on Fiber Blend Recycling and the Supplier
Company, Phoenxt, Renewcell and Circ (formerly Tyton 17 thousand tonnes. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. Mapping.
BioSciences), to validate the potential of their technologies
in this still nascent market. The recycled content produced Birla’s Liva Reviva is a new viscose fiber made with up
by four of these innovators will be converted at Birla to 20% pre-consumer cottonplus a small amount of post-
Cellulose’s state of the art pilot plants to produce high consumer waste (up to 5%), certified under the Recycled
quality cellulosic fibers. Claim Standard (RCS). The pre-consumer waste will be
increased up to 30% shortly. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.

1 Textile Exchange based on Maia Research, 2022. Global Recycled Manmade Cellulosic BlockTexx—see chapter on Fiber Blend Recycling.
Fiber Market Report 2022 + Global Manmade Cellulosic Fiber Market Report 2022.
2 Canopy, 2020. SURVIVAL. A Plan for Saving Forests and Climate A Pulp Thriller. Next
Generation Report. Photo: Södra

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 67
“Recycled” manmade cellulosic fibers
Supplier updates
Jilin Chemical Fibre’s Ecojilin is a commercially available tonnes of Renewcell pulp per year. In 2022, Renewcell Södra’s OneMore® is RCS-certified dissolving pulp,
RCS-certified viscose filament yarn made from pre- started running its new 100% textile-to-textile recycling currently produced with 20% post-consumer cotton. The
consumer cotton linters feedstock. Read more in the plant with a production capacity of 60,000 tonnes project started in autumn 2019 with 20 tonnes of post-
Supplier Mapping. per year in Sundsvall, Sweden. Due to high demand, consumer cotton added to their wood-derived pulp in their
Renewcell announced its plan to increase its capacity mill in Mörrum, Sweden resulting in 3% recycled content.
Jilin Chemical Fibre’s White Mountain is a commercially to 120,000 tonnes per year by 2023/24 and to 360,000 In 2020, Södra increased this share to 20% and became
available viscose filament yarn made from uncertified tonnes by 2030. Fiber producing partners of Renewcell RCS-certified. Södra`s and Lenzing's joint target is to
pre-consumer cotton linters feedstock. Read more in the includeTanghan Sanyou, Sateri, Yibin Hiest Fiber, and Birla recycle 25,000 tonnes in 2025 to create products with 50%
Supplier Mapping. Cellulose. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. recycled content. To achieve this, Södra needs to make
Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell with REFIBRA™ continuous improvements and investments. Södra is also
RISE - The Regenerator—see the chapter on Fiber Blend
technology is the first lyocell fiber made with reclaimed exploring a decoloring solution, possibilities to extract
Recycling.
materials offered on a commercial scale. Refibra™ was products from the polyester from poly-cotton blends, and
launched in spring 2017. While it was initially made with The Royal Golden Eagle (RGE) Group invested in the use of used MMCF textiles. See chapter on Fiber Blend
20% pre-consumer cotton residues, the percentage Infinited Fiber in 2019 and conducts in-house research on Recycling.
increased to 30% in 2019. A special lot production alternative cellulosic feedstock, such as recycled cotton
Tangshan Sanyou announced in June 2019 that it
including 5% post-consumer waste and 25% pre-consumer and agricultural waste. Read more in the Supplier Mapping
succeeded in producing viscose staple fiber ReVisco™
waste started and will become the standard product in the in the submission of Asia Pacific Rayon, part of RGE.
made from 50% post-consumer recycled cotton textiles
near future. Lenzing’s and Södra’s joint goal is to process
Sateri’s Finex® is a RCS-certified viscose staple fiber supplied by Renewcell.
25 thousand tonnes of textile waste per year by 2025. Read
more in the Supplier Mapping. made with post-consumer cotton textiles. It is the result
Worn Again Technologies’—see chapter on Fiber
of a collaboration with the pulp suppliers Södra and
Blend Recycling.
Phoenxt—see the chapter on Fiber Blend Recycling. Renewcell. The production of first commercial lines with
below 5% recycled content were announced in March Xinxiang Chemical Fibre offers RCS-certified MMCFs made
Mistra Future Fashion's Blend Re:Wind—see chapter on 2020 and the recycled content share is now up to 20% by with cotton linter.
Fiber Blend Recycling. mid-2021. Sateri aims to offer viscose products with 50%
recycled content by 2023 and 100% by 2030. Sateri's Yibin Hiest Fiber announced the successful industrial-
Newstartex offers a commercially available RCS-certified
intention is to have 20% of its overall feedstock contain scale production of viscose filament yarn made with 100%
MMC filament made with cotton linter.
alternative or recycled materials by 2025. Read more in the Circulose® pulp in 2022.
Renewcell’s Circulose®, launched in 2019, is a branded Supplier Mapping.
dissolving pulp made from 100% cellulosic textile waste
SaxCell has developed a pulp made from post-consumer
such as cotton and viscose, reusing the process chemicals.
cotton textiles. SaxCell aims to create the first industrial
Fiber producing partner companies can use it to make
scale production unit in 2022. Additionally, the first apparel
viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, or other types of MMCFs.
test collection produced in collaboration with partners is
The Kristinehamn demo plant in Sweden produces 7,000
scheduled for 2022. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 68
“Recycled” manmade cellulosic fibers
Supplier updates
MMCFs made from non-textile residues MMCFs with non-cellulosic recycled building block

Infinited Fiber Company’s Infinna™ is a cellulose In 2020, Eastman introduced Naia™ Renew, a
carbamate fiber currently created out of 100% post- cellulosic acetate fiber that combines 60% renewable
consumer textile waste, and it can also be created from wood pulp with 40% acetic acid sourced from a variety of
other cellulose-based waste streams like used cardboard, recycled waste material1. The recycled waste materials
paper or agricultural residues like wheat or rice straw. Read such as recycled polyester are broken down to molecular
more in the Supplier Mapping. building blocks and these building blocks are used as a
feedstock for acetic acid through Eastman's new Carbon
Inspidere’s Mestic® is a method in development to Renewal Technology. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
retrieve and convert cellulose from dairy cow manure into
regenerated cellulose fibers. The startup is based in the
Netherlands.

The Hurd Co engineers man-made cellulosic fiber pulp


from 100% agricultural waste. Agrilose is used to make
lyocell or viscose.

Nanollose is an Australian biotechnology company that has


developed a MMCF, using microbes that convert biomass
waste products from the beer, wine and liquid industries
into microbial cellulose. In 2018, Nanollose launched its
first microbial cellulose-based fabrics and is in the process
to scale production.

Orange Fiber, an Italian startup, has developed a


process to extract cellulose from the by-products of the
citrus industry to produce fabrics. The latest collection was
produced in an acetate process; viscose and lyocell trials
are ongoing. Orange Fiber aims to expand the production
capacity to 60 tonnes per year in 2022 and is fundraising to
scale up the production further. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.

1 Naia™ Renew recycled content is achieved by an allocation of recycled waste material using
an ISCC-certified mass balance process. Photo: Orange Fiber

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 69
Commitments to preferred manmade cellulosic fibers
Examples
The number of brands and retailers committed to preferred CanopyStyle commitments to eliminate the sourcing of
manmade cellulosics is increasing. To drive industry ancient and endangered forests Make a Standards Commitment
change, several companies are making joint commitments
The number of brands and retailers committed to eliminate Whether you have already made a commitment to
through industry initiatives.
ancient and endangered forests from their fabrics one or more of Textile Exchange’s Standards, or you
increased from 60 in fall 2015 to 455 in 20213. want to share a new one, you may use this form to
CanopyStyle Next Generation Vision
register details of your commitment(s).
In 2020, Canopy published its CanopyStyle Next Examples of commitments by Textile Exchange
Generation Vision that at least 50% of all MMCFs will members
be made from Next Generation feedstocks in 2030. At
The CanopyStyle Next Generation Vision is, for example,
its launch, this vision was backed by 26 of CanopyStyle
backed by the members Aritzia, Bestseller, C&A,
brands and suppliers1.
Esprit, GAP, Gina Tricot, G-Star Raw, H&M, Inditex,
The objective of the vision is to displace ancient and Kathmandu, Lindex, Mara Hoffmann, M&S, New Look,
endangered forest pulp from supply chains, i.e., 3.3 million Next, Patagonia, Reformation, Ted Baker, Tesco,
tonnes estimated to be from ancient and endangered Woolworth and Stella McCartney.
forest by:
Commitments to the Changing Markets Roadmap have
• Regenerating 50,000 tonnes of wood pulp with virgin been made, for example, by the members ASOS, C&A,
wood from new well-managed plantations and forests. Esprit, H&M, Inditex, Levi’s, M&S, New Look, Next,
Reformation, and Tesco.
• Extending the life of, at minimum, 10% (650,000+
tonnes) of clothing containing viscose.
• Replacing 2.6 million tonnes of wood pulp with pulp
derived from alternative fibers.

By 2020, MMCF producers declared to be investing a


combined sum of 233 million USD in Next Generation
research and development, and an intent to procure
274,000 tonnes of Next Generation fiber solutions2.

1 CanopyStyle press release (February 20, 2020). Announcing the CanopyStyle Next
Generation Vision for Viscose and the CanopyStyle Next Generation Vision for Viscose.
2 Canopy, 2020. 2020 Hot Button Report. Link. 3 Canopy, 2021. Highlights: CanopyStyle by the Numbers. Link.

CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 70
Synthetic Fibers:

Synthetic Fibers

Polyester

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 71


Recycled polyester
| Material Production Dashboard / Synthetic
Production facts and figures
Polyester Polyamide Others
Polyester is the most widely used fiber With an increasing demand for post-
worldwide. With an annual production consumer
Global polyester production bottles by the bottle industry,
(million tonnes)
Global fiber production in 2021 Global fiber production in 2021
of around 61 million tonnes1 polyester but also packaging more broadly and
60.53
had a market share of approximately further industries, 57.69
competition for post-
57.08
55.05
53.02 Other fibers 52 (46%)
54% of the global fiber production in 51.63 consumer bottles is increasing. Textile-
2021. to-textile recycling is an important
strategy to ensure future feedstock
Global polyester fiber production supply for the rPET textile industry.
increased from 57 million tonnes in 2020 The development and scaling of these 113
to 61 million tonnes in 2021 after a slight million tonnes Polyester 61 (54%)
technologies will be key in transitioning
decline due to COVID-19 in 2020. uptake from
12.86% conventional
13.37% 14.67%
13.66% fossil-based 14.83%

polyester to rPET.
Global recycled polyester (rPET) fiber12.37%
2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
production volume increased from
Standards
Recycled Polyester Other Polyester Recycled Polyester %
8.4 million tonnes in 2020 to around 9 | Material Production Dashboard / Synthetic
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
million tonnes in 20212. This equals a The main standards used for recycled
Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation
slight increase in the market share of polyester include the Global Recycled
recycled PET fiber from around 14.7% Standard (GRS), the Recycled Polyester Polyamide
of the global PET production in 2020 to Claim Standard (RCS) and the SCS
around 14.8% in 20213. Recycled Content Standard. For Global polyester production (million tonnes) Global fiber produ
Global polyester production (million tonnes)
further information, see the chapter on
Recycled polyester is mainly made from Sustainability Standards. 60.53
57.69 57.08
PET plastic bottles with an estimated 53.02
55.05
O
51.63
share of 99% of all recycled polyester4. Further standards and certifications
Recycled polyester can also be made for rPET include the World Fair Trade
from other post-consumer plastics Organization (WFTO) standard
such as ocean waste, discarded and the Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP)
polyester textiles, or from pre-consumer Certification.
processing residues such as fabric
13.37% 13.66% 14.67% 14.83%
scraps. 12.86%

12.37%

2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021


Recycled Polyester Other Polyester Recycled Polyester %

1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Polyester Fiber Market Report 2022. Customized report.
Source: TextileSource:
ExchangeTextile Exchange
based on based on maia research
Maia Research Source: Textile E
2 Maia Research, 2022. Global Recycled Polyester Fiber Market Report 2022. Customized report.
3 Textile Exchange, 2022. Based on sources listed in footnote (1) and (2).
4 Textile Exchange estimate based on (2) and bottom-up estimate of non-bottle rPET fiber production based on supplier mapping,
publicly available information, and market modeling.

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 72
Recycled polyester
Directory: Key suppliers and innovators
This map locates key suppliers and innovators of
France Netherlands
recycled polyester based on their headquarters.
• CARBIOS • CuRe Technology (formerly Cumapol)

All use mechanical recycling of plastic bottles except • Ioniqa

where indicated otherwise. • The Movement: Polylana


UK
• Worn Again: polymer
recycling Germany
• Advansa: Adva® + Suprelle®

United States Canada • Trevira: SINFINECO®

• Ambercycle • Loop Industries / Indorama


joint venture—emerging
• BIONIC® Switzerland
• Circular Systems: Texloop rPET-1 • Gr3n
• Lycra Company (Invista): • DoPoly: PTA + MEG
LYCRA® T400® + COOLMAX®
bottle + COOLMAX® textiles
+ THERMOLITE® EcoMade
• Martex Fiber Asia and Oceania
• Poole Company: EcoSure® See next page

• Premiere
• First Mile by Thread: Ground to Good™
Italy
• Unifi: REPREVE®
• Aquafil: ECOsense
• De Martini Bayart & Textifibra SpA 40%
• Imbotex: CLIMALIGHT
• Radici Group: Repetable® 49% RE
• Sinterama: Newlife™

Innovation beyond mechanical recycling of


plastic bottles Kenya
Chemical recycling • The Megh Group: T3. Trash. Thread. Textile

Biological recycling Spain


Ocean waste incl. ocean bound • Antex
• Seaqual
Post-consumer textiles
Tip: How to find suppliers of recycled polyester.
Pre-consumer textiles
Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list of RCS- and
GRS-certified
GRS-certified suppliers. More details also in the supplier mapping.
% renewable energy (>40% reported)

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 73
Recycled polyester China
Directory: Key suppliers and innovators • Cixi Xingke 90%
Japan • Elite Color Environmental

This map locates key suppliers and innovators of • Itochu: RENU™ 60% • Fujian Baichuan Resources

recycled polyester based on their headquarters. • Jeplan • Fujian Mr Fiber Joint


• Teijin: ECOPET™ + Eco Circle™ • Guangdong Qiusheng Resources
All use mechanical recycling of plastic bottles except • Toray: ECOUSE™ • Jiangnan Chemical Fiber
where indicated otherwise. • Longfu Recycling
• Nan Ya Plastics: ECOGREEN® -plus
• Ningbo Qiusheng Resources
• REO-ECO
Pakistan Korea
• Tianfulong
• Gatron: Ecoron • Hyosung: Regen™
• Yangzhou Rongcheng Chemical Fiber
• Pinnacle Fibre
• Zhejiang Haili Environmental Technology:
Reboyarn
• Zhejiang Jiaren New Materials
Taiwan • Zhongxing Environmental
• Far Eastern: TOPGREEN® rPET Filament
• Far Eastern: TOPGREEN® rTEX Filament
• Libolon: RePET™
Thailand
• EcoBlue: 3D pure rPET chips
• Nan Ya Plastics: SAYA
• Indorama: Ecorama
• Shinkong: RecoTex
• Thai Polyester: EcoTPC™

India
• Aero Fibre
Sri Lanka
• AGL Polyfil Private Limited
• Eco Spindles
• Alliance Fibres: Greenfil
• Ganesha Ecosphere: Rivivere
Indonesia
• JB Ecotex 55%
• PT Inocycle Technology
Innovation beyond mechanical recycling of • Neelam Fibers
plastic bottles • Pashupati Polytex
• Pashupati Excrusions
Australia
Chemical recycling
• BlockTexx: S.O.F.T. rPET Pellets
• Plastics for Change
Biological recycling
• Polygenta: revalyu (perPETual)
Ocean waste incl. ocean bound
• Reliance: R|Elan™ GreenGold
Post-consumer textiles • Sulochana: ECOESPIN (Polycycle) 100%
Tip: How to find suppliers of recycled polyester.
Pre-consumer textiles • Sutlej Textiles
• Sybil Industries: SyGreen Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list of RCS- and
GRS-certified
GRS-certified suppliers. More details also in the supplier mapping.
% renewable energy (>40% reported)

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 74
Recycled polyester
Chemical and biological recycling
Most polyester is currently mechanically recycled post- and pre-consumer textiles. The production capacity polyester. The pilot plant is located in The Netherlands and
from PET bottles1. The market share of chemically or increased to 400 tonnes per year in 2020. In 2020, started operation at the end of 2019.
biologically recycled polyester is still very low (<1%). Key JEPLAN, Axens, and IFPEN announced their partnership
challenges related to chemical and biological recycling are to demonstrate and commercialize an an optimized, Garbo S.r.l. has developed an innovative “chemical
costs, technological challenges, feedstock suitability and glyolysis based PET depolymerization process for all types recycling” process, called ChemPET, which is able to
availability, as well as energy use. With new operations of waste PET called “Rewind™. Read more in the Supplier treat most of the PET-based waste that is currently not
starting the commercial production of chemically recycled Mapping. recoverable.
polyester, and further companies in the research and
Nan Ya Plastics SAYA is a GRS-certified commercially Gr3n invented a new chemical process using microwave
development phase, the market share of chemically
offered chemically recycled PET, also made from pre- radiation to accelerate the depolymerization of PET into
recycled polyester is expected to grow in the coming years.
and post-consumer textiles. Read more in the Supplier monomers.

Commercially available on the market Mapping.


Indorama/Loop Industries joint venture has developed
FENC’s TOPGREEN® is a commercially offered Polygenta’s perPETual is a commercially offered a patented chemical recycling process to depolymerize
GRS-certified chemically recycled PET. Read more in the chemically recycled PET, made with recycled plastic all kinds of polyesters with zero energy use. The chemical
Supplier Mapping. bottles and pre-consumer textiles. Read more in the recycling produces recycled polyester DMT and MEG.
Supplier Mapping.
In 2018 INVISTA launched LYCRA® T400® EcoMade NextChem has completed the construction of the first
fiber. More than 65% of the overall fiber content comes Teijin’s ECOPET™ (formerly Eco Circle™) is a commercially demonstration plant in Italy for the chemical recycling of
from a combination of recycled plastics (PET bottles) and offered chemically recycled PET. PET and polyester from textiles, as part of the European
renewable plant-based resources (corn). The LYCRA® Union’s DEMETO project in 2022. NextChem is the
T400® Ecomade recycled content is chemically recycled. In development: developer and co-licensor of the depolymerization
Read more in the Supplier Mapping. technology, owned by the Swiss start-up gr3n, as well as
Ambercycle is a US-based startup developing an designer and constructor of the plant. Various types of
Ioniqa has developed a chemical recycling process for enzymatic process for polyester recycling. materials, including polyester-based textile fibers, will be
rPET. In July 2019, they took the first production plant of 10 tested in the plant, which is capable of recycling almost
CARBIOS is piloting an enzymatic process to depolymerize
kilotons in the Netherlands in operation. 100% of the incoming material, amounting to 1,000 tonnes
PET into its monomers. In 2020, Carbios produced the
per year.
Itochu’s RENU is a GRS-certified chemically recycled first clear plastic bottles from enzymatically recycled
PET made from pre- and post-consumer textiles. Read textile waste. Its first industrial unit with an annual In 2021, Fashion for Good launched the Full Circle Textiles
more in the Supplier Mapping. production capacity of 40,000 tonnes of recycled PET is Project which focuses on scaling polyester chemical
expected to generate first revenues in 2025. Read more in recycling for true fiber-to-fiber polyester recycling.
Jeplan’s new Kitakyushu Hibikinada Plant for chemical the Supplier Mapping. Participating innovators include CuRe Technology, Garbo,
recycling of polyester in Japan started commercial gr3n and PerPETual who will test path-breaking solutions
operation in January 2019. Jeplan’s BRING Material™ CuRe Technology (formerly Cumapol), DSM-Niaga,
that will be assessed and validated by participating brand
is a GRS-certified chemically recycling PET made from Morssinkhof, DuFor and NHL Stenden are collaborating
and supply chain partners.
on the new CuRe Technology, a new low energy chemical
polyester recycling process for any type of colored
1 Estimated at 99% of all recycled polyester.

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 75
Recycled polyester
Ocean-bound and ocean plastic
More than 8 million tonnes of plastic end up in the bottles are collected within 50 kilometers of coastlines PlasticBank is a social enterprise committed to stopping
oceans every year1. An increasing number of initiatives in countries or areas that lack formal waste or recycling ocean plastic while providing opportunities for brands to
are working on the collection of ocean-bound2 or ocean systems. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. have environmental and social impact. Social Plastic®
plastic as feedstock for recycled polyester. While the is ethically recovered material that transfers its value to
priority must be to avoid single-use plastic in the first Further ocean plastic initiatives communities in need. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
place, such initiatives can help to reduce the plastics
Circulate Capital is an investment management firm Seaqual is an initiative in Spain to clean oceans from
in our ocean as long as ocean-bound and ocean plastic
dedicated to financing innovation, companies, and marine litter. Licensed Seaqual members can produce,
exists.
infrastructure that prevent the flow of plastic waste into buy or sell products containing Upcycled Marine Plastic.
the world’s ocean while advancing the circular economy. Seaqual yarn is an 100% recycled material with full
Ocean-bound plastic standards
Circulate Capital established the world’s first investment traceability (“DNA tracer inside”). Read more in the
In 2020, Control Union and Zero Plastic Oceans launched fund dedicated to preventing ocean plastic: Circulate Supplier Mapping.
the Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP) Certification. The OBP Capital Ocean Fund (CCOF).
Certification Program is designed to encourage the Tide Ocean SA is currently being audited for the Global
removal of ocean-bound plastic from the environment by First Mile, an initiative of Thread International and WORK, Recycle Standard (GRS), the Recycled Claim Standard
adding value in effectively collecting and treating it before formalizes waste collection networks in low-income (RCS) and the Ocean Bound Plastic Certification (OBP).
it reaches oceans. communities and bridges the gap for global brands to
purchase from these responsible supply chains, while Further suppliers of recycled polyester made with ocean-
Textile Exchange Member Action diverting plastic waste from our oceans and landfills. Read bound or ocean plastic are listed on the recycled polyester
more in the Supplier Mapping. supplier map.
Plastics For Change is expanding to coastal communities
across Asia. This initiative is about creating better NextWave Plastics is a consortium of multinational
livelihoods for the urban poor while keeping plastic out of technology and consumer brands gathering in the spirit
the ocean. In 2021, Plastics For Change has become one of of collaboration and transparency to rapidly decrease the
the first companies in the world to be certified by the OBP volume of plastic litter entering the ocean by developing
certification. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. the first global network of ocean-bound plastic supply
chains.
SAYA Coastal is a specialized recycling program that
targets the clean-up and renewal of discarded plastic OceanCycle is a social enterprise reimagining the circular
bottles in coastal regions that would otherwise migrate out economy through sourcing, certifying and reusing
to sea. materials to prevent ocean plastic pollution.

Unifi's REPREVE® Our Ocean uses ocean-bound plastics Ocean Material is working with leading ocean recycling
certified by an independent third party organization. The specialists to replace virgin plastic with ocean plastic
waste.
1 IUCN, 2021. Website. Link.
2 Ocean-bound plastic is generally defined as Abandoned Plastic Waste located within the
range of 50km from shore. Source: Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP) Certification, 2021. Website.
Link. Photo: Seaqual

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 76
Recycled polyester
Fairness for waste pickers
While social conditions in the factories are, at least, on the
radar of most companies, the livelihoods of the waste picking
communities are often not yet sufficiently considered. With
first initiatives explicitly addressing the social impact on the
polyester feedstock collection level, it is expected that social
topics related to waste collection will receive increasing
attention in the next years.

Fairness for waste pickers

First Mile are recycled polyester bottles that can be traced


back to the collection networks responsible for picking up
the post-consumer bottles. They are used for the Thread
Ground to Good™. The raw materials are sourced from Haiti,
Honduras, and Taiwan. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.

The Megh Group - T3. Trash. Thread. Textile. is a


new project in development in Kenya. T3 is currently
constructing a mechanical PET bottle recycling plant in
Kenya with an initial capacity of 25 tonnes per day. A key
goal is to turn waste into a resource that generates income
and improved conditions for families living in poverty.

PlasticBank is a social enterprise committed to stopping


ocean plastic while providing opportunities for brands to
have environmental and social impact. Social Plastic®
is ethically recovered material that transfers its value to
communities in need. As a user of Social Plastic® one will
have a direct and traceable impact on helping to stop ocean
plastic and improve lives.

Plastics For Change is the first and, currently, the only


rPET supplier certified by the World Fair Trade Organization.
Plastics For Change has developed a franchise model to
fortify recycling businesses that pay waste-pickers decent
incomes, train them, and make investments. Read more in
the Supplier Mapping.
Photo: Plastics for Change

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 77
Biobased polyester
An emerging material
The market share of biobased polyester is estimated at Radici's Biofeel® -PET is a 30% biobased polyester In 2014, Gevo, Inc. has announced that it is selling para-
around 0.02% of the total polyester production1. Biobased filament yarn produced from bio-PET resins made with xylene (PX) derived from its renewable isobutanol to Toray,
polyester has the potential to reduce GHG emissions, but plant-based bio-MEG. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. a leading producer of fibers, plastics, films, and chemicals.
materials have to be sourced and managed responsibly to PX is a primary raw material for the manufacture of bio-
realize this potential. Further development of feedstocks is In 2012, Teijin started the production of its ECO CIRCLE™ polyester (PET).
needed to provide the industry with innovative solutions to Plantfiber, a partially biobased PET resin made from
drive uptake of biobased polyesters. 30% bio-based EG derived from sugarcane and the rest Global BioChem is a Chinese producer of bio-MEG.
from petroleum-based dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) or
Many biosynthetic materials that exist on the market today terephthalic acid (PTA). India Glycols has been producing bio-MEG using ethylene
are partially biobased; it's important that the industry derived from bio-ethanol since 1989.
continues to invest and develop 100% biobased solutions. Toray's Ecodear® PET is a 30% plant-based polyester fiber
derived from sugarcane. Toray launched ecodear® as an Indorama offers a bio-PET resin made with 30% plant-
While many sustainability standards for biobased integrated brand for biomass-based polymer materials and based bio-MEG.
feedstocks exist, the scale and adoption of these standards products in 2013.
Iwatani develops eco-friendly resin using 30% plant-
for biosynthetics is still limited. Key standards for
based raw materials. Iwatani announced the procurement
biomass certification are the Roundtable for Sustainable Chemicals
of Bio-MEG from India-based India Glycols Limited, and
Biomaterials (RSB), ISCC Plus, and Bonsucro.
Avantium inaugurated its bio-MEG demonstration plant in consignment of Thailand-based Indorama Ventures in
the Netherlands in 2019. 2012.
Fibers and yarns
Anellotech is a US-based company producing BioBTX, a PEFerence announced the establishment of a biorefinery
OceanSafe naNea fibers are 25-30% biobased PET
biobased paraxylene. flagship plant producing FDCA (furan dicarboxylic acid), a
staple fibers. They are Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold.
bio-based building block to produce high value products
Read more in the Supplier Mapping. Braskem and Haldor Topsoe announced a partnership including biobased polyester.
Far Eastern's TopGreen® Bio PET Filament is a in 2017 to validate the MOSAIK™ sugar-to-biochemicals
PET filament made with 30% biobased feedstock from solution for the production of bio-MEG in a demonstration Virent develops its BioFormPX® paraxylene made
sugarcane. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. plant. The demo plant started operation in 2019. from sugars. In 2016, Virent and FENC announced the first
100% bio-polyester shirt made with Virent’s BioFormPX®
LYCRA® T400® EcoMade fiber is PET fiber with more Gevo has developed fully renewable carbon-based para- paraxylene. Virent completed a year-long run of a
than 65% of the overall fiber content from a combination of xylene, a key ingredient to convert petro-based polyester demonstration plant in 2017/18 which demonstrates the
chemically recycled plastics (PET bottles) and renewable for fibers and bottles to 100% renewable content. It opened technology to convert plant sugars to bio-paraxylene, a
plant-based resources (corn). Read more in the Supplier a plant making biobased paraxylene in Texas in 2013. Gevo critical raw material for biobased polyester fiber. Read
Mapping. and Toray signed a bio-paraxylene offtake agreement more in the Supplier Mapping.
for the world’s first pilot-scale fully renewable, bio-based
polyethylene terephthalate (PET) production in 2012.

1 Estimate based on nova-Institute, 2021. Bio-based Building Blocks and Polymers – Global
Capacities, Production and Trends 2020 – 2025. Link and Maia Research, 2022. Global
Polyester Fiber Market.

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 78
Commitments to preferred polyester
Accelerating the transition
Commitments to Recycled Polyester Global polyester fiber market growth trend without acceleration of decoupling from virgin fossil feedstock
In April 2021, Textile Exchange and the United Nations (total polyester fiber in million tonnes and % of recycled)
Framework Convention on Climate Change’s Fashion
Industry Charter for Climate Action (UNFCCC) launched 90
a joint initiative to spur a shift in the market towards the
uptake of recycled polyester and its associated reduction in
greenhouse gases. 70.7
68.2
63.3 65.4
The 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge serves as an 60.5
60 57.7 57.1
important catalyst for change in the apparel industry. 53.0 55.1
51.6
It is challenging the industry to commit to bringing the
overall percentage of recycled polyester up from 14% to
45% by 2025. It encourages brands to commit to the most
ambitious uptake target possible of 80-100% recycled
30
polyester.

132 companies (including subsidiaries) signed up to the


2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge between its launch
in April 2021 and December 2021. This includes 109 13% 14% 15% 15% 15% 16% 16% 16%
12% 13%
(83%) brands and retailers and 23 (17%) suppliers and 0
2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022e 2023e 2024e 2025e
manufacturers. All participants have committed to targets
ranging from having 45% to 100% recycled polyester by
2025.
Recycled polyester   Other polyester

Commitments to Biobased Polyester

The interest in alternatives to fossil-based synthetics


including biosynthetics is increasing. Public commitments
to biobased polyester are still very rare though. Call to action Call to action Call to action
Sign the 2025 Recycled Join the Recycled Polyester Join the Biosynthetics
Polyester Challenge Round Table Round Table

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 79
Synthetic Fibers:

Synthetic Fibers

Polyamide

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 80


| Material Production Dashboard / Synthetic
Recycled polyamide
Production facts and figures Polyester Polyamide

Global total polyamide (nylon) fiber production increased


again from 5.4 million tonnes in 2020 to 5.9 million tonnes Global
Global market share of polyamide market share of polyamide in 2021
in 2021 Global polyamide production (million tonn
in 2021, after a slight decline due to COVID-19 in 20201. Polyamide 6 (5%)
With this, polyamide fibers accounted for about 5% of the 5.13
5.34

global fiber production market in 20212.

The recycled polyamide fiber market is growing but at


a rather slow rate. Around 0.1 million tonnes of recycled
polyamide were produced globally in 2021. Due to 113
technical challenges, limitations related to feedstock million tonnes
quality and availability, and low prices for fossil-based
polyamide, the market share of recycled polyamide is

| Material Production Dashboard / Synthetic


still very low, accounting for 1.9% of all polyamide fiber 1.83% 1.90%
production.3 | Material Production Dashboard / Synthetic Other fibers 107 (95%)
2017 2018
Recycled Polyam
Recycled polyamide can be produced from pre- or post-
consumer waste. Pre-consumer waste may be Polyester
processing Polyamide Source:
Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Textile
Research andExchange
global data based Others
on maia research and global data compilations
compilations Source: Textile Exchange based on maia rese
Polyester Polyamide Others
scraps, fabric cut-offs or hard polyamide waste. Post-
consumer polyamide is made from materials such as
Global market share of polyamide in 2021
discardedGlobal
fishing nets,
market share carpets,
of polyamideor other used textiles. The
in 2021 Global
Global polyamide production polyamide
(million tonnes) production (million tonnes)
Global polyamide production (million tonnes)
5.87
recycling process can be mechanical or chemical. Polyamide 6 (5%)
Polyamide 6 (5%) 5.58 5.87
5.34 5.58 5.45
5.34 5.45
5.13
5.13
The main standards used for recycled polyamide include
the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and the Recycled
Claim Standard (RCS). For further information, see the
chapter on Sustainability Standards.
113113
The recycling of polyamide helps to decrease dependency
millionmillion
tonnes tonnes
on fossil based raw materials and to reduce the waste
material. Aquafil estimates that 70,000 barrels of oil are
saved per 10,000 tonnes of regenerated caprolactam3. 1.83% 1.90% 1.94%
1.94% 1.94%
1.94% 1.94%
1.94%
1.83% 1.90%
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
Other fibers 107 (95%) 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
Other fibers 107 (95%) Recycled Polyamide Other Polyamide Recycled Polyamide %
Recycled Polyamide Other Polyamide Recycled Polyamide %
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilations Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilations Source:
Source: Textile Exchange based on Textile Exchange based on maia research
Maia Research
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Polyamide Fiber Market Report 2021. Customized report.
2 Textile Exchange estimate based on various sources (see the chapter on the Global Fiber
Market).
3 Aquafil, 2022. Website. Link.

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 81
Recycled polyamide
Directory: Key suppliers and innovators
This map locates key suppliers and innovators producing recycled polyamide by headquarters.
All polyamide is mechanically recycled from pre-consumer waste unless otherwise indicated.

United States Israel South Korea


• Ascent • Nilit: Ecocare • Hyosung: Mipan Regen™
• Premiere: EcoInnovationFiber™ • Taekwang: Acepora-Eco®
• Unifi: REPREVE®

Japan
• Toray: CYCLEAD™

China
• Guangdong Xinhui Meida Nylon
Spain • Highsun Holding Group
• Nurel: Reco Nylon® 100% (renewable carbon credits)
• Zhejiang Taihua New Materials
• Nylstar: Meryl® Recycled

Taiwan
• Chain Yarn: Chainlon
Innovation beyond mechanical recycling Greenlon® Recycled
of pre-consumer materials • Far Eastern: FEFC® eco
• Formosa: Sunylon
Chemical recycling
Italy
Fishing nets
• Aquafil: ECONYL®
Post-consumer textiles • De Martini Bayart & Textifibra: ACEPORA-ECO®NY 30%
Other feedstock • Fulgar: Q-NOVA®
• Radici: Renycle ® 42% Tip: How to find suppliers of recycled polyamide.
GRS-certified
Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list of
% renewable energy (>40% reported)
RCS- and GRS-certified suppliers. Find more details
also in the Supplier Mapping.
Textile Exchange members are highlighted in bold (as of September 2022).

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 82
Biobased polyamide
Introduction and supplier innovation landscape
The global production volume for biobased polyamide Chemicals and resins PEFerence announced the establishment of a biorefinery
fiber is around 0.02 million tonnes.1 It is estimated that the flagship plant producing FDCA (furan dicarboxylic acid), a
Anellotech announced the production of sample quantities
share of biobased polyamide fibers is around 0.4% of the bio-based building block to produce high value products
of bio-based benzene in 2019.
polyamide fiber market.1 including biobased polyamide and polyester.
Arkema’s Rilsan® is a 100% bio-based polyamide 11 resin
Fibers and yarns RadiciGroup’s Radipol® DC is a 64% biobased polyamide
derived from castor seeds oil. With its partners, Arkema is
6.10 resin. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
Cathay’s TERRYL® is a biobased polyamide line offering driving the sustainable production of castor seeds in India
PA56, PA510, PA512, PA514 and co-polymers chips and through the Pragati Initiative since 2016. Read more in the RadiciGroup’s Radipol® PX resin is a 100% biobased
filament with 31 to 100% renewable shares. Supplier Mapping. polyamide 5.10 resin based on castor. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping.
Chainlon’s biobased polyamide 6.6 yarn is made with BASF Ultramid® Biomass Balance Polyamide is a mass-
Evonik’s VESTAMID® Terra HS® and contains 62% balance based polyamide. Virent’s BioFormBZ®Benzene is a biobased benzene
biobased content made from castor oil. that can be used to produce polyamide. Read more in the
DSM’s EcoPaXX® is a 70% biobased polyamide (PA410)
Supplier Mapping.
Fulgar’s EVO® is a 100% biobased polyamide yarn made resin derived from the castor bean plant.
from castor oil.
Evonik and BioAmber have a long-term agreement for the
RadiciGroup’s Biofeel® PA is a 64 to 100% biobased development and manufacturing of catalysts for making
polyamide filament yarn derived from castor oil and BDO (1,4- butanediol), THF (tetrahydrofuran), and GBL
agricultural waste. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. (gamma-butyrolactone) from biobased succinic acid.

RadiciGroup’s Dorix® 6.10 is 64% biobased polyamide Evonik’s VESTAMID® is the name for a group of polyamides
staple fiber made from castor. Read more in the Supplier based on renewable raw materials: The monomers are
Mapping. obtained partly or entirely from castor oil.

RadiciGroup’s Radilon® 6.10 is a 64% biobased polyamide Scientists at Sweden’s Lund University have found a way to
yarn. convert cotton into sugar, which in turn can be made into
elastane or polyamide.
Toray’s ECODEAR® PA 6.10 is a biobased polyamide
filament derived from the castor bean. Genomatica announced the world’s first ton of 100%
biobased caprolactam (CPL) in 2020 which is converted
Unitika, partner of Arkema, offers Castlon®, a 100% into polyamide 6. Genomatica collaborates with Aquafil.
biobased polyamide filament derived from castor seed oil. The development is part of the “Project EFFECTIVE.” Read
more in the Supplier Mapping.

1 Estimate based on nova-Institute, 2021. Bio-based Building Blocks and Polymers. Global
Capacities, Production and Trends 2020-2025. Link and Maia Research, 2022. Global
Polyamide Fiber Market 2021. Customized report. Photo: Arkema

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 83
Commitments to preferred polyamide
Examples
Brands and retailers are starting to make public Other commitments
commitments to replace virgin polyamide with recycled
Arkema, producer of the 100% bio-based polyamide 11
polyamide.
resin Rilsan® derived from castor seeds oil, is working
with partners to drive the sustainable production of castor
Examples of public commitments to recycled
seeds in India through the Pragati Initiative since 2016.
polyamide by Textile Exchange members
Read more here.
Everlane is committed to using only recycled nylon by
2021. Read more here.

H&M is committed to using only 100% recycled or other Make a Standards Commitment
sustainably sourced materials including recycled nylon. Whether you have already made a commitment to
Read more here. one or more of Textile Exchange’s Standards, or you
want to share a new one, you may use this form to
Moose Knuckles is committed to eliminate virgin nylon
register details of your commitment(s).
from its garments by the end of 2025. Read more here.

Norrona has the goal to use as much recycled or


responsibly produced plant based polyamide in its
products as possible. Read more here.

Patagonia's goal is to stop using virgin fossil-based nylon


by 2025. Read more here.

StellaMcCartney is working towards switching all nylon to


ECONYL® regenerated nylon. Read more here.

VF Corporation has committed to increasing uptake of


recycled nylon to 50% by 2025. Read more here.

Volcom is committed to increase their share of recycled


nylon to 20% by 2020. Read more here.

Photo: Arkema

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 84
Synthetic Fibers:

Synthetic Fibers

Other Synthetic Fibers

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 85


113
million tonnes
million tonnes) | Material Production
Acrylic Dashboard
fiber production (million tonnes)/ Synthetic Elastane fiber production (million tonnes)

3.06 Other synthetics


| Material Production Dashboard / Synthetic
2.90
3.03 1.87 1.84
1.78
1.71 Other fibers 106.9 (95%)
113 113
1.08
1.16

Production facts and figures Polyester Polyamide


Polypropylene
1.65
Acrylic Elastane (spandex)
Others
Other fibers
million0.99
tonnes million tonnes
Polyester Polyamide Others 0.93
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
The other synthetics
Global category,
market share of which
other synthetics 2021 includes
| Material
| Material Production Production
Dashboard 0.82 Dashboard / Synthetic
/ Synthetic
polypropylene,Global
acrylics, andof elastane
market share had
other synthetics 2021 a combined
Global market share of other synthetics 2021
Polypropylene 3.0 (3%)
Elastane fiber production (million tonnes)
Polypropylene fiber production (million tonnes) Acrylic fiber production (million tonnes) Elastane fiber production (million tonnes)
production volume of 5.8 million tonnes and a market 3.06 1.87
Polypropylene 3.0 (3%)
1.16
share of around 5% of the global fiber market 2.94
in 2021.
2.99
2.90
3.03 1.84
Polyester
1.78
1.71
Polyester Polyamide Polyamide Others
1.08 Others
1.65 0.99
Other fibers 106.9 (95%) Other
0.93
fibers 106.9 (95%)
Polypropylene had a market share of 2.7% of the global Global market
Global market share of other synthetics 2021 share of other synthetics 2021 0.82
Polypropylene 3.0 (3%)
fiber market in 2021. The polypropylene fiber production Polypropylene
Polypropylene 3.0 (3%)
Acrylic
Polypropylene Elastane Acrylic(spandex)Elastane Other(spandex)
fibers Other f
volume slightly increased again from 2.9 million tonnes in 113
113
Source: Textile Exchange Source:based TextileonExchange
maia research basedand on maiaglobal data compilation
millionresearch
tonnes and global data compilation
2020 to 3.0 million tonnes in 2021, after a slight decline million tonnes
due to COVID-19 in 2020. It is estimated that just about
0.2% of all polypropylene fibers are recycled.
1.20% 1131.63% 113
1.89% 2.29% 2.61%
0.10% 0.15% 0.19% 0.00%
0.00% 0.00%
0.00% 0.10% 0.15%
0.07%0.19% 0.17%
0.00% 0.00%
0.31%0.07% 0.17% 0.31% million1.20%
tonnes 1.63% million 1.89%
tonnes 2.29% 2.61%
Polypropylene fiber production
Polypropylene (million
fiber tonnes)
production (million tonnes) Acrylic fiber production
Acrylic (million
fiber tonnes)
production (million tonnes)
2019 Acrylic fibers
2020 had with a2021 production volume of2017 around
2017 1.7
2018
2018
2019 2020
2019
Other
2021
fibers
Other 106.9
fibers (95%)2020
106.9(95%)
2017 2018
2021
2019 2020
2017
2021 2017
2018 2018 2019
2019 2020
2020 2021
2021
Program Recycled Virgin % recycled Program Recycled Virgin % recycled Recycled Virgin % recycled
million tonnes a market share of 1.5% of the global fiber 3.06 3.06 3.03 3.03 1.87 1.87
1.84 Recycled Virgin1.84 % recycled
ecycled Virgin % recycled
2.94 2.99Program
2.94 Recycled 2.99
Virgin % Acrylic
Polypropylene
Polypropylene recycled
Acrylic Elastane
Elastane (spandex)
(spandex) Other fibers
Other fibers
1.78
market in 2021. Global acrylics fiber production Source:
volumes
Textile Exchange based on maia research 2.90
Source: Textile Exchange based2.90on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research 1.78
Source:
Source: Textile Textile
Exchange Exchange
based basedresearch
on maia on maia research and
and global global
data data compilation
compilation 1.71 1.71
have been declining over the years¹. The market share of
Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation Source:
Other fibers 106.9 (95%)Textile Exchange based
Other fibers on(95%)
106.9 Maia Research 1.65
maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile
Polypropylene
Exchange based
Polypropylene
Acrylic Elastane (spandex) Other
on
Acrylic
maia research
fibersElastane (spandex) Other fibers
recycled acrylics is estimated at around 0.3% of the total
Source: Textile Exchange based onSource: Textile Exchange
maia research and globalbased on maia research and global data compilation
data compilation
Polypropylene fiber production (million tonnes) Acrylic fiber production (million tonnes) Elastane fiber production (million tonnes)
acrylic fiber production
Polypropylene fiberin 2021. (million tonnes)
production Acrylic fiber production (million tonnes) Elastane fiber production (million tonnes)
2.94 2.99
3.06 3.03 Polypropylene
1.87
1.87
fiber production
1.84
1.78
(million tonnes) Acrylic fiber production (million
1.16 tonnes)
1.16
3.06 2.90 3.03 1.84 1.08
2.99
2.94fiber production just crossed the 1.71
Global elastane 2.901 million 1.78
Polypropylene
Polypropylene fiber production (million tonnes)fiber production (million tonnes)
1.71
1.65 Acrylic fiber production (million Acrylic
tonnes)fiber production (million tonnes)
0.99 1.08 Elastane
Elastane fiber production (million tonnes)fiber producti

3.06 1.65 1.87 0.93 1.87 1.840.99


tonnes per annum in 2020 and increased to 1.2 million 2.94 2.99 3.06
2.94 2.99
2.90
3.03
2.90
3.03 1.84
1.78
0.93
1.78 1.08
0.82 1.71 1.71
1.65 1.65
tonnes in 2021, accounting for a market share of around 1% 0.82 0.93
0.99
0.93
of the global fiber market in 2021. The global elastane fiber 0.82 0.82

production volume growth trend continued in 2021. The


share of recycled elastane was an estimated 2.6% of the
global elastane fiber production volume in 2021.

The production volumes of further other synthetics such 0.17% 0.31% 1.20% 1.63% 1.89% 2.29% 2.61%
0.00% 0.00% 0.10% 0.15% 0.19% 0.00% 0.00% 0.07%
as polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT),2019 0.00% acid
polylactic 0.00%
0.00% 0.10%
0.00% 0.15%
0.10% 0.19%
0.15% 0.00%
0.19% 0.00%
0.00% 0.07%
0.00% 0.17%
0.07%1.63% 0.31%
0.17%
1.89%
1.20% 2.29%
1.63
2017 2018 2020 2021 2017
0.00% 2018
0.00% 2019
0.00%
0.10% 2020
0.00%
0.15% 0.10%2021
0.19% 0.15%0.00% 2017
0.19% 0.00% 2018 0.07%
0.00% 20190.17%
0.00% 2020
0.07%
0.31% 0.17% 1.20%
2021 0.31%
1.20% 1.63% 1.89% 2.29% 2.61%
0.00% are very
(PLA), and similar 0.00%low and 0.10%
currently
Program 0.15%
not
Recycled Virgin included
% recycled 0.19% 0.00% 0.00%Program 0.07%
Recycled
2017Virgin % recycled0.17% 0.31% 2020 Recycled Virgin % recycled
2017 2018
2017 2019
2018
2017 2018 2020
20192019 2018
2020 2021
2020 2019
2021 2017 2017
2021 2021 2018 2017
2019 2018
2017 2018
2020 2019
2018
2019
2021 2020 2017 2020
20192021 2018 2021
2020
2017
2019 201
2020
Recycled Virgin
% recycled
2018 Program Recycled2019
Virgin % recycled Program Recycled Virgin % recycled 2017Program 2018
Recycled Virgin 2019 Recycled Virgin2020
% recycled Program
% recycled 2021
in the report. 2017 Source: Textile
2018 2019
Exchange based on maia research
2020 2021
Program
2017
Recycled Virgin
Program
Source: Textile % recycled
Exchange Recycled
based on maiaVirgin
2020
research % recycled
2021
Source: Textile Exchange based onProgram
maia researchRecycled Virgin
Program % recycled
Recycled Virgin % recycled
Program Recycled Virgin % recycled Program Recycled Virgin % recycled Recycled Virgin % recycled
Source:
Source: Textile Exchange based on Textile Exchange based on maia research
maia research Source:
Source: Textile Exchange based on Textile Exchange based on maia research
maia research Source:
Source: Textile Exchange based on Textile Exchange
maia research
Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
Source: Textile Exchange
Source:based
TextileonExchange
maia research
based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange
Source:based
TextileonExchange
maia research
based on maia research

1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Other Synthetics Fiber Market Report 2022. Customized report.

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Other Synthetic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 86
Other recycled or biobased synthetics
Recycled and biobased elastane, acrylic, and polypropylene
There are several examples of recycled or biobased start in 2024 will be 66,000 tonnes per annum. Biobased
synthetics other than polyester and polyamide, such as BDO is a chemical that can be used for a variety of
recycled elastane, acrylic or polypropylene. applications including biobased elastane. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping.
Recycled elastane
Scientists at Sweden’s Lund University have found a way to
Asahi Kasei’s Roica™ EF launched its first GRS- convert cotton into sugar, which in turn can be made into
certified recycled elastane, a polyurethane filament made elastane or polyamide.
from pre-consumer materials, in 2016. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping. Recycled acrylic

Hyosung’s creora regen elastane, a GRS-certified, 100% Aksa started the commercial scale production of
recycled elastane, was launched in 2019. Acrycycle® recycled acrylic fiber made with 100% pre-
consumer material in 2019. Read more in the Supplier
LYCRA® EcoMade fiber is The LYCRA Company’s first Mapping.
branded elastane made with recycled content, introduced
in 2019. The fiber contains 20% pre-consumer content, Hebei Acrylic Fibre offers a 70% recycled acrylic fiber
diverting waste, and keeping materials in use. Read more branded as RCA. It is made from pre-consumer acrylic
in the Supplier Mapping. textiles and RCS-certified. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.
Sheico Group’s Sheiflex® is a recycled elastane which
received its GRS certification in 2017. Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. (TAF), part of Aditya Birla
Group, has launched a recycled acrylic fibre branded as
Spanflex™ recycled elastane is GRS-certified. “Regel™”, which is made by with 50% pre-consumer
recycled acrylic textiles and is GRS-certified. Read more in
Biobased elastane the Supplier Mapping.
The Lycra Company launched the LYCRA® 162 R fiber,
an elastane fiber with 70% biobased content derived from Recycled polypropylene
corn, in 2014. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. Radici’s Respunsible® is a recycled polypropylene
spunbond from pre-consumer materials. Read more in the
The Helm AG in collaboration with Cargill launched QIRA,
Supplier Mapping.
a biobased 1,4 Butanediol (BDO) with around 95% corn-
based feedstock, in 2021. The production capacity at the

Photo: USGS

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Other Synthetic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 87
Other recycled or biobased synthetics
Supplier innovation landscape
Biobased PLA Biobased PTT The Helm AG in collaboration with Cargill launched QIRA,
a biobased 1,4 Butanediol (BDO) with around 95% corn-
Advansa offers ADVA® made from PLA staple fibers. Read Covation Biomaterial's (fomerly DuPont's) Sorona®,
based feedstock, in 2021. The production capacity at the
more in the Supplier Mapping. commercially available since 2000 and celebrating its 20th
start in 2024 will be 66,000 tonnes per annum. Biobased
anniversary in 2020, is a partially biobased PTT polyester
In 2021, Total Corbion PLA, a 50/50 joint venture between BDO is a chemical that can be used for a variety of
polymer with 37% biobased content by weight made from
Total and Corbion, confirms that it has kicked off the front- applications including biobased polyurethane. Read more
corn sugar. As of 2021, Covation Biomaterials has many
end engineering design stage for its new 100,000 tonnes in the Supplier Mapping.
fiber production partners across the globe and over 150
per annum PLA plant in France. mill partners. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
Biobased PBS
Far Eastern offers biobased PLA made with Ecopel’s KOBA® is a bio-based material with 37% biobased Kintra Fibers is developing a polybutylene succinate
NatureWorks Ingeo™, which is made from corn. content based on Sorona® fiber from Covation Biomaterials (PBS), which is a linear aliphatic polyester, currently with
(formerly DuPont). Read more in the Supplier Mapping. 50% biobased content derived from corn. Read more in the
Natureworks has developed its Ingeo™ branded PLA
to manufacture plastics and fibers. Ingeo™ is currently Supplier Mapping.
Far Eastern offers biobased PTT.
derived from corn, cassava, sugar cane or beets. In 2019,
NatureWorks announced its commitment that 100% of Toray`s Ecodear® PTT is a 30% plant-based PTT.
its agricultural feedstock used for Ingeo will be ISCC Plus
certified by 2020. The Natureworks R&D team is also Teijin Frontier's SOLOTEX® ECO-Hybrid fiber was
working on a new technology to skip plants entirely. launched in 2020. The high-stretch fiber combines
biobased PTT and chemically recycled PET.
NOOSA® is a 100% biobased PLA, which is made from
corn and sugarcane. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. Biobased PHA

Palmetto Synthetics offers biobased PLA staple fiber made In 2021, Fashion for Good launched The Renewable Carbon
with NatureWorks Ingeo®, which is derived from corn. Textiles Project, a consortium project to accelerate the
development of PHA fibers from different feedstocks
Radici’s Biofeel® - PLA (formerly Cornleaf) is a 100% together with the innovators Bio Craft Innovation, Full
biobased filament yarn based on Ingeo™ PLA biopolymer, Cycle Bioplastics and Newlight.
which is made from corn. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping. Biobased polyurethane

Toray also offers a 100% biobased PLA filament. Covation Biomaterials (formerly DuPont) Susterra®
PDO is 100% corn-based building block, called
Trevira, an Indorama Ventures company, offers propanediol, for a variety of polyurethane applications.
biobased PLA fibers and filaments made with Nature Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
Works LLC Ingeo™ which is made from grain (corn).

Photo: Kintra

CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Other Synthetic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 88
Other Manmade
Fibers & Materials

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 89


Recycled fibers from blended textiles
Chemical and mechanical recycling of blended materials
Many textiles produced today are fiber blends. Recycling industrial size facility called Novetex Upcycling Factory
of fiber blends is particularly challenging due to the mix scaling this technology was opened in September 2018.
of materials, such as cotton and polyester. Blending of
fibers such as elastane with other fibers cause significant Infinited Fiber Company, a spin-off of the VTT
challenges when it comes to recycling post-consumer Technical Research Center of Finland, has developed a
textiles. Thanks to a few innovative startups, there is technology that is also able to digest mixed post-consumer
the prospect that high-value fiber blend recycling will be cellulose-based textile waste. Cellulose-based fibers are
possible soon. separated from other fibers like polyester and elastane,
and the cellulose fibers are then chemically dissolved
Chemical recycling through a Cellulose Carbamate (CCA) technology. The
technology can also turn cotton, viscose and other
Ambercycle has developed a technology to separate post- cellulose based residues into new MMCF. The technology
consumer polyester-cotton blends on a molecular level can be applied in any existing dissolving pulp and MMCF
and turn it into high-quality polyester pellets and products plant. Investors include the H&M Group, Virala, Fortum
sold under the brand cycora™. and the RGE Group. The material is sold under the brand
Infinna™, a cellulose carbamate fiber currently created out
BlockTexx owns proprietary technology that separates
of 100% post-consumer textile waste. A 30,000 tonnes
polyester and cotton materials such as clothes, sheets
flagship factory in Finland is expected to be operation in
and towels of any color or condition back into their high-
2024. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
value raw materials of PET and cellulose for reuse as new
products for all industries. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.

Circ (earlier called Tyton Biosciences) is developing


a proprietary polycotton blend recycling process utilizing
hydrothermal technology to separate polyester fiber from
cotton at any ratio, yielding polyester monomers and
dissolving pulp. Circ aims to recycle 10 billion garments by
2030. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.

The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel


(HKRITA)—in collaboration with the H&M Foundation
and Novetex—has developed a hydrothermal method
using heat, water, and green chemicals for recycling
post-consumer cotton and polyester blends. A new pre-

Photo: Infinited Fiber

CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 90
Recycled fibers from blended textiles
Chemical recycling of blended materials
Mistra Future Fashion’s Blend Re:Wind is a Swedish MMCF textiles. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
process for the recycling of poly-cotton blended textiles.
Cotton is turned into new high-quality viscose filaments Worn Again Technologies’ patented process can
and polyester into two pure new monomers. separate, decontaminate, and extract polyester polymers
and cellulose (from cotton) from non-reusable textiles, as
Phoenxt is a textile-to-textile chemical recycling well as plastic bottles and packaging, to go back into new
technology that aims to convert textile waste back to raw products as part of a repeatable process. The construction
material, including blended materials made of polyester, of Worn Again Technologies’ first demonstration plant with
cotton, and cellulosic fibers. Read more in the Supplier a capacity of 1,000 tonnes per year is scheduled to start
Mapping. end of 2022 in Winterthur, Switzerland. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping.
RISE - The Regenerator is working on a technology to
recirculating fashion by separating cotton and polyester
blends, turning them into new textile fiber.

Södra announced its new solution called OnceMore®


to separate cotton and polyester from polycotton blends
in October 2019. The project started in autumn 2019 with
20 tonnes of post-consumer cotton added to their wood-
derived pulp in their mill in Mörrum, Sweden resulting in
3% recycled content. In 2020, Södra increased this share
to 20% and became RCS-certified. Södra’s target is to
recycle 25,000 tonnes in 2025 to create products with 50%
recycled content. To achieve this, Södra needs to make
continuous improvements and investments. Södra is also
exploring a decoloring solution, possibilities to extract
products from the polyester, and the use of post-consumer

Photo: Circ

CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 91
Recycled fibers from blended textiles
Mechanical recycling of blended textiles
Mechanical recycling

Circular Systems’ Texloop, a purely mechanical and


hydrothermal process, can also recycle blends, which in
turn act as raw material inputs to next-generation fabrics.
More in the supplier mapping.

Kishco Group mechanically recycles various input


materials, including polyester/cotton blends.

Martex Fiber has been innovating in the field of textile


recycling since its founding in 1970 as a textile waste
trading company. The company also mechanically recycles
polyester/cotton blends.

Novetex opened its Novetex Upcycling Factory in Hong


Kong in September 2018 for mechanical fiber-to-fiber
recycling. The technology was developed in collaboration
with HKRITA and H&M Foundation and can recycle post-
consumer fiber blends.

Photo: MPCA

CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 92
Manmade protein fibers
Overview
Biobased manmade protein fibers are another example
of material innovations. Please note that not all biobased
fibers are, by definition, sustainable or preferred. Further
research is required in order to assess their sustainability
profiles holistically.

Biobased manmade protein fibers

AMSilk Biosteel® is a biobased protein fiber produced in a


continuous spinning process.

Bolt Threads’ Microsilk is a biobased manmade


“spidersilk” primarily made of sugar, water, salts and
yeast.

Kraig Biokraft is a protein fiber made by genetically


engineered silkworms and composed entirely of protein
produced naturally by the silkworm.

Spiber’s Brewed Protein™ is a 100% protein-based


material, created from sugars derived from either
sugarcane, corn, or saccherification of cellulose. After
more than 12 years of research and development, Spiber
is now focusing on the transition to mass production.
Spiber’s first commercial Brewed Protein™ production
plant, launched in Thailand in 2022, has a maximum
annual capacity of up to several hundred tonnes.
Bonsucro-certified sugar will be used as the primary
feedstock for commercial production in Thailand. Read
more in the Supplier Mapping.

Photo: Spiber Inc.

CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 93
CO2-based fibers
Overview
Addressing climate change is one of the most urgent the production of the world’s first partially CO2-based
action areas for the textile industry. A few companies polyester yarn and fabric. Later in 2021, Lanzatech
are exploring innovative approaches to directly capture together with Far Eastern New Century (FENC) and
carbon dioxide (CO2) from the air and use its carbon as Inditex’s Zara announced their first partially CO2-based
feedstock for textiles. This can be processed into pre- capsule collection. Steel mill emissions were captured
cursor chemicals which are used in the production of and converted into ethanol to produce 20% CO2-based
synthetic fibers such as polyester. Direct Carbon Capture polyester.
and Utilization (CCU) is a new technology in development.
Its energy use is currently very high but if technological Mango Materials is developing a process to produce PHA
challenges are overcome and if it is powered by renewable biopolymers from waste biogas (methane) via a microbial
energy it has great potential as alternative to virgin fossil process.
feedstock.
NatureWorks is currently using plants to capture and
sequester CO2 into long-chain sugar molecules, and
Examples
its PLA called ingeo. Their R&D team is assessing new
Covestro and its partners, foremost the Institute of Textile technology to skip plants and use microorganisms to
Technology at RWTH Aachen University and various textile convert greenhouse gases into lactic acid directly.
manufacturers, announced in July 2019 that they have
succeeded in making elastic textile fibers based on CO2 NewLight is working on a technology to turn greenhouse
and in doing so, partly replacing crude oil as a raw material. gases into aircarbon™, a PHB that can be melted and
forged into fibers and solid parts.
Fairbrics is a Global Change Award winner developing
a technology to convert greenhouse gas into polyester. RUBI, Global Change Award winner 2022, is developing a
In 2021, Fairbrics produced the first proof-of-concept technology to produce viscose made of carbon emissions
garment partially made of CO2 converted into polyester captured from the air.
with the help of H&M group’s Circular Innovation Lab
(CIL). The pilot project is planned for 2023 and the first
commercialization in 2025. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.

LanzaTech is developing a carbon recycling technology.


In 2021, Lanzatech together with lululemon announced

1 Covestro July 2, 2019 Press Release “Dress with CO2”. More information here. Photo: Covestro

CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 94
Manmade non-fiber materials
An overview
While leather is a by-product of the meat and dairy MYLIUM is a mycelium-based material. Other natural
industry, some brands prefer emerging manmade non- ingredients are added to the mycelium to strongly bind it
fiber materials. together. The material can be finished with a coating to
finetune its properties.
While most manmade non-fiber materials are fossil-based
synthetics, a rapidly growing number of partially (and Reishi™ from MycoWorks is a material grown rapidly from
rarely fully) recycled and biobased manmade non-fiber mycelium and agricultural byproducts.
materials is being developed. Many are still in development
as it is not easy to achieve some of the quality attributed of Sporatex™ from Spora Biotech is a mycelium-based
natural leather, such as its durability. material.

While partially or ideally fully substituting fossil-based 100% bio-based materials containing rubber or gum
with biobased or recycled content is a start, continuous
Bambuflex© is a 100% biobased material derived from
improvements and a holistic approach including material
bamboo.
health and circularity are important.
Malai Biocomposite is a biobased material based on
Mycelium-based materials bacterial cellulose and a blend of natural fibers. It is grown
Bolt Threads—Mylo™ is developed from mycelium in coconut water, a leftover from the coconut industry in
cells. First consumer products made with Mylo™ were South India, through fermentation of a bacterial culture.
revealed in 2021. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. This jelly is harvested and enriched with natural fibers,
gums and resins to create a more durable and flexible
Forager™ by Ecovative are 100% biobased materials made material. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
from mycelium.
Natural Fiber Welding’s Mirum™ is a 100% plant-based
MuSkin is a 100% biobased material derived from the material. Ingredients used include cotton and hemp fiber,
Phellinus Ellipsoideus, a parasitic fungus that grows in the coconut coir, cork, natural rubber, and similar. Unlike most
wild and attacks the trees in the subtropical forests. other non-fiber materials, the final Mirum™ materials are
not coated in polyurethane or PVC. The cork and rubber
MYCL is currently developing Mylea™, a mycelium-based part is FSC-certified. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
non-fiber material.

MycoFutures North Atlantic is developing a mycelium-


based materials.

Mylea™ is a mycelium-based material developed by Mycl.

Photo: Natural Fiber Welding

CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 95
Manmade non-fiber materials
An overview
Partially bio-based materials blended with Bioengineered materials
polyurethane or other synthetics
Modern Meadow’s Zoa™ is a bioengineered material based
Desserto from Adriano di Marti is a partially biobased on the protein collagen produced through fermentation
material, launched in 2019. The resin is made with 40% from yeast in a lab with the support of biotechnology.
cactus fiber, protein, pigments and 60% polyurethane. Modern Meadow is currently collaborating with selected
Backings are made with different fiber blends. More in the brands to launch their first products in 2019.
supplier mapping.
Provenance is a bioengineered material based on collagen
Piñatex® is a non-fiber material made of up to 95% of as building blocks.
renewable resources including 72% Pineapple Leaf Fibers
(PALF), 18% biobased PLA, 5% biobased PU, and 5% Vitrolabs is a biotechnology company based in California
fossil-based PU. More in the supplier mapping. using stem cell-based technologies to develop a manmade
non-fiber material. More in the supplier mapping.
Ultraleather® Volar Bio is a a blended multi-layer non-
fiber material with 29% biobased content, composed of a Further manmade non-fiber materials
polycarbonate and biobased surface made from corn and a
Several further manmade non-fiber material types such as
backing consisting of 65% polyester and 35% rayon. More
coated textiles and cork-based materials exist.
in the supplier mapping.

Vegea uses grape marc, the seeds and the stalks of the
wine grape bunch, which are left over after winemaking,
combined with polyurethane (PUD), resulting in a 70%
biobased and 30% fossil-based manmade non-fiber
material.

Photo : Ananas Anam Piñatex®

CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 96
Sustainability Standards
& Traceability

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 97


Sustainability standards
Standards that can be used for multiple fiber types
The importance of sustainability standards and chain- Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
of-custody systems is increasing. OCS: Number of certified sites
GOTS is the worldwide leading textile processing standard
11,885
for organic fibers, including ecological and social criteria, 12,000
While the previous chapters in this report provide an
overview of the most important fiber-specific standards backed up by independent certification of the entire textile 10,000
8,680
such as cotton, wool, and down standards, this section supply chain. 8,000
6,181
includes standards that can be used for multiple fiber 6,000
The GOTS version 6.0 was released in March 2020. The 3,661 4,179
3,643
types. 4,000
revised version includes updates related to GMO testing,
2,000
As leading standards for organic textiles, the Organic living wages, and environmental criteria, among others.
0
Content Standard (OCS) and Global Organic Textile The release of the GOTS version 7.0 is scheduled for March 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021

Standard (GOTS) both further expanded their market. 2023. Read more information here.

The number of GOTS-certified sites increased from 10,388


Organic Content Standard (OCS) GOTS: Number of certified sites
in 2020 to 12,340 in 2021, covering more than 4 million
The Organic Content Standard (OCS) is an international, workers. 14,000
12,340
voluntary standard that sets requirements for third-party 12,000 10,388
certification of certified organic input and chain of custody. Content Claim Standard (CCS) 10,000
7,765
The goal of the OCS is to increase organic agriculture 8,000
The Content Claim Standard (CCS) is the foundation of 5,760
6,000 5,024
production. 4,104
all Textile Exchange standards. It's a chain of custody 4,000
Textile Exchange launched the OCS 3.1 in July 2020. standard that provides companies with a tool to verify that 2,000
Updates include updated manuals, more robust one or more specific input materials are in a final product. 0
2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
traceability between farm and first processor, GMO testing
The CCS 3.1 was released in June 2022 and includes an
requirements, and non-mulesing for organic wool. More
updated certification eligibility section. More information
information here.
here. CCS (stand-alone): Number of certified sites
The number of OCS-certified sites increased from 8,680 in 120 113
Its use as a foundational standard for the other Textile
2020 to 11,885 in 2021.
Exchange Standards (GRS, OCS, RCS, RDS, RWS) 90
increased significantly from 29,639 sites in 2020 to 48,755
57 60
sites in 2021. 60 47
46

The number of CCS-certified sites—with the CCS used 30


13
as a standalone standard beyond the Textile Exchange's
0
portfolio of standards—increased from 60 in 2020 to 113 in 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
2021.

CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 98
Sustainability standards
Standards that can be used for multiple fiber types
The two leading standards for textiles made with The number of GRS certified sites increased significantly
recycled materials—the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) from 14,367 in 2020 to 25,763 in 2021. RCS: Number of certified sites
and the Global Recycled Standard (GRS)—are growing 10,000
particularly fast. Towards a unified standard 8,004
8,000
In July 2021, Textile Exchange began a comprehensive
Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) 6,000
revision of its standards framework with the intent to
The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) is an international, embed its Climate+ strategy into a more unified standard 4,383
4,000
voluntary standard that sets requirements for third-party system across its eight standards. “Unified standard” is 2,497
certification of recycled input and chain of custody. The goal being used as a placeholder to refer to the development 2,000
505 691
of the standard is to increase the use of recycled materials. of the new standard system. A concurrent process is 220
0
underway to establish a name for our future standard(s). 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
The RCS 2.0 has been in effect since July 2018. A key Textile Exchange is anticipating publication of the new
update was the introduction of the Reclaimed Materials standard system in Quarter 4 of 2023 (subject to change).
Supplier Agreement, a document that provides more To learn more about the unified standard progress, read
visibility into the suppliers of reclaimed materials. In April more here. GRS: Number of certified sites
2021, Textile Exchange began another revision of the RCS.
The revision process of the RCS will be rolled into the Cradle to Cradle (C2C) 30,000
development of the unified standard. Read more here. 25,763
25,000
Cradle to Cradle Certified® is a globally recognized measure
The number of RCS certified sites increased from 4,383 in of safer, more sustainable products made for the circular 20,000
2020 to 8,004 in 2021. economy. 14,367
15,000

The Cradle to Cradle Certified® Standard Version 4.0, 10,000


Global Recycled Standard (GRS) 6,755
released in March 2021, features new and enhanced 5,000
1,924
943 1,376
The GRS—going beyond the RCS—includes additional requirements in all performance categories, including: new 0
criteria for social and environmental processing frameworks for Product Circularity and Social Fairness that 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
requirements and chemical restrictions. define global best practices. More rigorous requirements in
Clean Air & Climate Protection that promote urgent action
The GRS 4.0 was released in parallel to the updated
to address climate change. Expanded requirements in
RCS version and has been in effect since July 2018. A
Water & Soil Stewardship to ensure clean water and healthy
key change was the adoption of ZDHC’s Manufacturing
soils are available to people and all other organisms.
Restricted Substance List v1.1 (MRSL) that replaced GRS’s
Improved alignment of Material Health requirements
previous Prohibited Substance List.
with leading chemical regulations and other standards,
In April 2021, Textile Exchange began another revision of the including a new Restricted Substances List.
GRS. The revision process of the GRS will be rolled into the
development of the unified standard. Read more here.

CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 99
Traceability and transparency
Brands and retailers are increasingly being held Introducing Textile Exchange Trackit The MVP (Minimum Viable Product) development of
accountable for what happens throughout the value dTrackit was completed in November 2021. Since then,
Textile Exchange standards cover third-party certification
chain. The ability to map the materials value chain is Textile Exchange has been improving the system and
at site and transaction level. As different certification
not only critical for due diligence but core to tracking ingesting, cleaning, and harmonizing data from its 30
bodies operate in different regions, traceability is
progress towards Textile Exchange Climate+ strategic approved certification bodies. Phase 1 of dTrackit is on
disaggregated across certification bodies which makes
direction and the Sustainable Development Goals. course for release in January 2023 with the following
value chain mapping a challenge. The Textile Exchange
While the majority of the top 100 apparel brands have features.
Trackit program is being developed to address these
sustainable material targets in place, according to a 2019 • Find a certified company: An up-to-date search engine
challenges and support the traceability needs for Textile
UNECE study, only about 34% of companies track and for certified companies and its materials, processes and
Exchange standards. The Trackit program offers two
trace their value chains, of which half have visibility only products.
traceability paths:
up to their immediate suppliers.
• Transaction authentication: A capability to
• Digital Trackit “dTrackit” forms the traceability baseline authenticate transaction certificates.
Textile Exchange Trackit is our response to this call to
for the existing certification process of all Textile
action—a formative program for improved integrity, • dTrackit brand portal: A portal for certified brands to
Exchange standards. Traceability in dTrackit is achieved
traceability, and efficiency of sustainable material centrally access scope certificate, transaction certificate
by centralizing and connecting scope and transaction
provenance. and traceability data.
certification data stored by certification bodies.
In October 2021, Textile Exchange and TextileGenesis™
The role of sustainability standards in traceability • Electronic Trackit “eTrackit” is an alternative for
announced the RCS and GRS pilot of Textile Exchange’s
companies wanting more granular traceability using
Standards provide the industry with a way to verify Electronic Trackit “eTrackit” program. The pilot was
innovative technologies. It takes the traceability of
sustainability claims of a product. In general, there are completed in July 2022 and improvements from the pilot
Textile Exchange standards one step further by tracking
three levels of verification: feedback is now underway. Subject to final approval,
the volume of certified material of each product (rather
eTrackit is planned for release in first half of 2023.
than the entire transaction) entirely online via tokens
• Site level
(think eBanking). Traceability is achieved by tracking
• Transaction level these tokens at an article level in a central platform
• Physical material level which certification bodies access for verification
and approval. Physical material verification may be
Credible traceability requires the interplay of verification
integrated and reconciled with data along the chain for
at site, transaction, and physical material levels. What
additional assurance
is traced, how it is traced, and the assurance levels very
much depend on the chain of custody and requirements of
the standard.

CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 100
Traceability and transparency
The Textile Tracer Assessment Oritain offers an isotope technology to trace products back
to their true origin.
Fashion for Good, together with Textile Exchange, jointly
released "The Textile Tracer Assessment", a detailed The Waste2Wear® blockchain system provides
analysis for benchmarking physical tracer technologies indisputable evidence that Waste2Wear® Fabrics are really
relevant in the textile industry in July 2021. Read more made of plastic waste. The blockchain records the journey
here. of the plastic waste bottles, step-by-step, to become a
finished textile product and allows customers to track each
Textile Exchange Member Action step in the value chain of the fabrics that they ordered.
Applied DNA Science is a B2B technology providing
innovative molecular business solutions under the
CertainT Platform to enable brands and manufacturers to
Tag-Test-Track their raw materials all the way to finished
product. Applied DNA Science offer solutions for cotton,
down & feather, leather, synthetic fibers, and many other
materials.

AWARE™ by The Movement is a traceability technology


that can be used for all kinds of materials that are
verified by unique tracer particles and validated by
secure blockchain. AWARE™ blockchain is powered by
Circularise.

Haelixa is a DNA-based technology creating a unique and


traceable fingerprint for different materials.

The Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) initiated the Textile


Traceability Task Force (TTTF) to harmonize efforts
and co-develop a traceability framework. One project
of this task force was the TTTF landscape analysis that
researched 40 companies, 49 technologies and 26 pilots
and initiatives—including technologies such as blockchain,
microbiome, isotope, DNA markers, and fluorescent
tracers.

Photo: FSO

CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 101
Impact Incentives
Making impact happen
Textile Exchange has led the development of Impact The Partner Programs support the farmers through
Incentives, Impact Partnerships and is a founding member training, infrastructure investments, verification and data
of the Impact Alliance. collection, while providing stories, data, and credibility
back to the brands. This model allows brands to share the
Impact Incentives are a market mechanism for risk and cost of improving practices to meet a standard
brands to deliver their expectations back to the start that is normally carried by farmers alone.
of the supply chain and provide financial rewards to
encourage improved practices. In 2021, the Impact Incentives were piloted for leather.
In 2022, the piloting will continue for leather and Textile
The way they work is quite simple: farms that have been Exchange is extending the model to cotton and cashmere.
verified to meet a set of sustainability requirements will
be able to sell Impact Incentives proportional to their For more information, visit
production of raw material. Brands can purchase Impact www.impactincentives.org and textileexchange.org/
Incentives to reward farmers for improved practices and impact-incentives.
help build the supply of preferred materials.
Impact Incentives are a powerful tool to address
The farms selling the Incentives may or may not be in the
supply chain of the brands. While this means that brands the complexity of supply chains and connect
can't make any content claims on their products, they can brands with farmers to share the risks and costs
bypass the cost and complexity of long or opaque supply of improved practices. They provide a fast and
chains to deliver impact quickly and efficiently. Brands
efficient means to build up a more sustainable
can still make claims about their support for improved
practices and tell credible stories based on the data supply and drive the speed and scale of impact
collected from the farms. that is needed to address the world’s challenges.
The Impact Partnership is an option to help brands work
– Anne Gillespie, Director of impact Acceleration, Textile
with on-the-ground Partner Programs to support farmers
Exchange
to meet the Impact Incentives requirements within three
years.

Photo: Produzindo Certo

CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 102
Textile Exchange programs
Corporate Fiber & Materials Benchmark Global Fiber Impact Explorer

Textile Exchange’s Corporate Fiber & Materials Benchmark The Global Fibre Impact Explorer (GFIE) tool is a web-
(CFMB) program enables participating companies to based environmental data platform enabling companies
measure, manage, and integrate a preferred fiber and to assess the risk associated with their raw materials
materials strategy into their business. By participating sourcing regions. The platform brings together hundreds
in the corporate benchmark, companies demonstrate a of relevant national and regional data sets into an algorithm
commitment to transparency and continuous improvement that provides risk assessment and recommendations for
around their materials sourcing strategy. addressing key hotspots.

Textile Exchange’s ambition is to be the driving force for The first version of the GFIE was gifted to Textile Exchange
urgent climate action on textile fiber and materials. By in 2021 by Google and development of the tool is ongoing.
benchmarking the industry and providing actionable tools Read more here.
for improvement, we are pushing a race to the top. Read
more here. Round Tables

Preferred Fiber and Materis Matrix Textile Exchange’s round tables are designed to enable
entities all along the textile supply chain, from farmers to
Textile Exchange created the Preferred Fiber and Material brands, to work collectively towards its Climate+ goals
(PFM) Matrix to help everyone from brands to suppliers by sharing learning opportunities, tools, relevant data,
and consumers to compare the impacts of different fibers, reports, and more. They brings together stakeholders from
materials, certifications, and initiatives according to the across the industry through online meetings, webinars,
material type. Its categories include cotton, synthetics, flax and at the annual Textile Exchange Conference.
(baste fibers), manmade cellulosic fibers (MMCFs), and
wool (animal fibers). The organization’s mission is to mobilize action by
establishing a shared understanding of core material
The PFM Matrix exists to enable more responsible sustainability issues, creating alignment on goals
sourcing decisions backed by guidance from a trusted, and actions, boosting commitment from brands, and
centralized data source. It builds upon—instead of being measuring progress. Read more here.
limited to—Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) data, using
program documentation, quantitative and qualitative
research studies, and data quality considerations. In this
way, it enables brands to consider a more holistic set of
impacts. Read more here.

Photo: Gallant International

CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 103
Supplier Mapping

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 104


Supplier mapping
Textile Exchange annually invites suppliers to submit
information for the Preferred Fiber and Materials Market
Report. A summary of the submissions is included here in
our public report.

The full supplier mapping benefits Textile Exchange


Supporter and Partner level members and includes 131
snapshots of innovative fibers and materials across various
material categories shared by 108 suppliers with us
between 2019 and 2021. The most recent submission year
is indicated in brackets after each product name.

The supplier mapping includes the information


submitted by the suppliers and has not been verified
by Textile Exchange. The submission is voluntary and
the supplier mapping is limited to those submissions. The
2021 supplier mapping focuses on the fiber categories
listed on the next pages.

Photo: NextEvo

CONTENTS Supplier Mapping PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 105
Supplier mapping

Synthetics
Recycled Polyester (download) • SEAQUAL: SEAQUAL® (2022) • Radici: Respunsible® (2021)
• ADVANSA: Suprelle® + ADVA® (2022) • Shinkong: RecoTex (2022) • Thai Acrylic: Regel (2022)
• Aero Fibre (2021) • Sulochana: ECOESPIN, formerly Polycycle (2022) • The LYCRA Company: EcoMade recycled elastane
• AGL: Polyfil (2019) • Thai Polyester: EcoTPC™ (2020) (2020)

• Alliance Fibres: Greenfil (2022) • The LYCRA Company: LYCRA® T400® EcoMade Biosynthetics (download)
• BlockTexx: S.O.F.T. rPET Pellets (2021) (2021) • ADVANSA: ADVA® PLA (2021)
• Carbios (2021) • The LYCRA Company: THERMOLITE® EcoMade • Arkema: Rilsan® polyamide 11 (2021)
(2021)
• Cixi Xingke (2019) • Covation Biomaterials (formerly DuPont): Sorona®
• The LYCRA Company: COOLMAX® EcoMade (2021) PTT (2021)
• De Martini Bayart & Textifibra Spa: non-branded (2021)
• The Movement: Polylana® (2021) • Covation Biomaterials (formerly DuPont): Susterra®
• DePoly (2022)
• Unifi: REPREVE® (2020) PDO (2021)
• EcoBlue: 3D-Pure rPET chips (2022)
• Worn Again Technologies (2021) • Ecopel: KOBA® (2020)
• Far Eastern: FENC® TOPGREEN® (2022)
• Zhejiang Haili: Reboyarn (2020) • Far Eastern: FENC® TOPGREEN® (2019)
• First Mile (2019)
• Genomatica: Biobased Nylon 6 (2020)
• Gatron: Ecoron (2022) Recycled Polyamide (download)
• HELM AG: QIRA (2021)
• IMBOTEX: CLIMALIGHT (2021) • Aquafil S.p.A.: ECONYL® (2022)
• Kintra Fibers: Biobased PBS (2021)
• Itochu: Renu™ (2022) • De Martini Bayart & Textifibra Spa: Non-branded (2019,
• NOOSA: NOOSA® (2022)
• JB Ecotex: non-branded (2022) 2021)
• OceanSafe AG: naNea (2022)
• Jeplan: Bring Material™ (2020) • Far Eastern: FEFC® eco (2022)
• Radici: Biofeel® PET (2021)
• Nan-Ya Plastics: Saya (2020) • Fulgar-Q-Nova (2022)
• Radici: Biofeel® PA (2021)
• Neelam Fibers (2020) • Nilit (2019)
• Radici: Biofeel® PLA (2021)
• Pashupati (2020) • Nurel: Reco Nylon (2022)
• Radici: dorix® 6.10 (2021)
• Pinnacle (2022) • Radici: Renycle® (2022)
• Radici: Radipol® DC (2021)
• Plastics for Change (2022) • Taekwang Industrial: Acepora-Eco® (2021)
• Radici: Radipol® PX (2021)
• Polygenta: perPETual (2021) Other Recycled Synthetics (download) • The LYCRA Company: Lycra® 162 R (2020)
• Radici: Repetable® (2021) • Aksa: Acrycycl® recycled acrylic (2020) • Virent: BioForm Paraxylene + Benzene (2019)
• Reliance: RElan™ Green Gold (2020) • Asahi Kasei Corporation: ROICA™ EF (2021)
• REO-ECO (2022) • Hebei Acrylic Fibre: RCA (2022)

= Textile Exchange Members

CONTENTS Supplier Mapping PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 106
Supplier mapping

Natural Fibers (plant- and animal-based) Manmade cellulosics Other


Recycled Natural Fibers (download) Recycled Manmade Cellulosics (download)* Fiber Blend Recycling (download)
• Allied Feather and Down: RENU (2022) • Aalto University: Ioncell® (2020) • BlockTexx: S.O.F.T. (2022)
• Circular Systems: Orbital™ (2019) • Asahi Kasei: Bemberg™ (2022) • Circ ex. Tyton Biosciences (2021)
• Circular Systems: Texloop™ (2019) • Asia Pacific Rayon (2022) • Circular Systems: Orbital™ (2019)
• Datini Fibres: Recycled wool (2022) • Birla Cellulose: Liva Reviva (2022) • Circular Systems: Texloop™ (2019)
• Geetanjali Woollens (2020) • Eastman: Naia™ Renew (2022) • Recover Textile Systems: Recover™ (2022)
• Giotex: Rcot (2020) • Evrnu: NuCycl™ (2020) • Infinited Fiber (2020)
• Recover Textile Systems: Recover™ (2022) • GP Cellulose: Cotton Linter Pulp (2022) • PHOENXT (2021)
• Re:Down: Re:Down (2022) • Infinited Fiber Company: Infinna™ (2021) • Södra: OnceMore® (2022)
• Säntis: RCO100 (2022) • Jilin Chemical Fibre: ECOJILIN (2022) • Worn Again Technologies (2021)
• Takihyo: NO WASTE Project (2021) • Jilin Chemical Fibre: White Mountain (2022)
Manmade Non-fiber Materials (download)
• Taishoboseki Industries: Raffy (2021) • Lenzing: TENCEL™ Lyocell with Refibra™
technology (2021) • Adriano Di Marti: Desserto (2020)
• Usha Yarns (2022)
• Orange Fiber (2021) • Ananas Anam: Piñatex (2022)
• Weturn (2022)
• Renewcell: Circulose® (2022) • Bolt Threads: Mylo™ (2022)
Virgin Natural Fibers (download) • China Green Plastic: Blue RenTec (2020)
• Sateri: FINEX™ (2022)
• AltMat: Alt (2021) • Ecopel: KOBA® (2020)
• SaXcell (2021)
• Bear Fiber (2021) • Malai (2022)
• Södra: OnceMore® (2021)
• Circular Systems: Agraloop™ (2019) • Natural Fiber Welding: MIRUM™ (2021)
• Flocus™ (2022) Virgin Manmade Cellulosics (download)
• Sustainable Composites: enspire leather®
• Includes lists of FSC- and PEFC-certified suppliers (2020)
• Himalayan Wild Fibers: Himalaya™ (2022)
and a link to The CanopyStyle Hot Button Report.
• Nextevo™ Pineapple Leaf Fibers (2022) • Ultrafabrics: Ultraleather® | Volar Bio (2021)
• Algiknit (alternative virgin feedstock) (2020)
• Spinnova (2022) • VitroLabs: Calf Leather (2020)
• Metsä: Kuura (2022)
• Tung Ga Group: REECO (2022) Manmade Protein Fibers (download)
• Spiber: Brewed Protein™ (2021)

CO2-based Fibers (download)


• Fairbrics (2022)

= Textile Exchange Members

CONTENTS Supplier Mapping PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 107
Methodology & Disclaimer

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 108


Methodology
Scope of the report: Global total and "preferred" fiber Textile Exchange has not assessed the degree of a) Data quality checks and triangulation
and materials market sustainability of each individual program, initiative, or
product mentioned in this report. It rather aims to provide Textile Exchange tried to identify the most reliable sources
The Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report covers for each fiber category and conducted triangulations with
an overview of potential solutions. The Preferred Fiber and
the market for the key fibers and materials, including the at least 2 to 3 sources wherever possible. In general, all
Materials Matrix will assess a select group of programs.
conventional ones and examples of “preferred” options. global market data are rounded estimates.
Textile Exchange historically defined a preferred fiber or
Key information shared in the report
material as “one which results in improved environmental b) Production volume scope
and/or social sustainability outcomes and impacts The Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report contains
compared to conventional production.” 1) global production volumes of various fibers and The production data in this report cover the total amount
materials, 2) standard specific data such as the number of of fibers produced. The report does not differentiate
But as the window to protect the 1.5°C pathway narrows, certified sites or production volumes per standard, and 3) a between different usages and is thus not specific to the
we’ve got to keep raising the bar. So, Textile Exchange is variety of news, updates, stories, and quotes. apparel industry. The fibers may be used for apparel, home
revisiting the definition to identify key indicators across textiles, technical textiles, or any other application.
climate, nature, animals, people, and governance that not Textile Exchange has collected, analyzed, and compiled all
only focus on reducing negative impacts but drive forward this information in all good conscience and cross-checked Minority fibers such as PLA, PTT, protein fibers are not
measurable beneficial outcomes ones too. the data and information wherever possible. A guarantee included.
for all the information is not given. This report is intended
In September 2022, Textile Exchange proposed the c) Definition of fiber and materials
for general guidance and information purposes only. It
following updated definition: "A raw fiber or material that is not the report’s intention to be used or considered as Fiber includes staple fiber and filament. All numbers
delivers ongoing beneficial outcomes and impacts for advice or recommendation in any direction. reported on manmade cellulosics and synthetics include
climate, nature, and people through a holistic approach to
staple fiber and filament production volumes. Materials
transforming raw fiber and material production systems." 1. Global production volumes* include fibers and non-fibrous materials such as leather
The development of detailed assessment criteria is
The compilation of global market data is challenging. and rubber.
scheduled for 2023. While the updated definition may
be aspirational today, the direction of travel for materials The collection of primary data from the suppliers is
d) Allocation of years
to be considered “preferred” should be in-line with its beyond what is possible within the scope of this report,
underlying principles. The definition will continue to so we rely on secondary data from industry associations, Textile Exchange reports data based on calendar year.
evolve in line with the best available climate science and international organizations, governmental organizations, Some data sources collect data on a seasonal basis. The
modeling. standard setters, and research institutes. We are trying cotton production volumes are collected in ICAC harvest
our best to provide an accurate and reliable picture of years starting from August 1 and ending on July 31, and
Textile Exchange acknowledges that there are a variety the market, but data gaps and inconsistencies are very could thus be allocated to the calendar years in different
of different approaches and that the continuum evolves common for global market data and modelling has to be ways. This report allocates the ICAC year which ends in a
over time. The report provides examples of programs, applied for some data. Specific data sources are directly calendar year to the respective calendar year (e.g. 2020/21
initiatives, and products working towards these goals. mentioned on the pages. cotton production volumes to the 2021 calendar year).
ITWO applies the same approach for wool production data

CONTENTS Methodology & Disclaimer PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 109
Methodology
in several countries (e.g. 2020/21 wool production volumes 3. News and narratives is a condition of the USCTP. The cotton that is part
are allocated to the 2021 calendar year). of Field to Market but not part of the USCTP is not
The news, updates, stories, quotes and narratives
otherwise certified or verified.
e) Modelling presented in the report are either based on information
directly received from the companies and organizations or • ICPSS was included for the first time as a new BCI
To close data gaps, modeling as well as assumptions and from their press releases or websites. equivalent program.
inference have been used (e.g. applying country average • QAI International was discontinued in 2021 and thus
yields instead of program-specific yields). Methodological changes, data revision, and excluded.
comparison to previous years • ROC production volumes for 2018/19 and 2019/20 were
f) Fiber specific methodology
Textile Exchange continuously improves its data collection updated.
Organic cotton data: For a detailed description of the and analysis. Some data reported in previous years has • Updated ICAC cotton statistics were applied, including
methodology behind the organic cotton production been revised or updated since the actual data has become revision of the data of a couple of previous years.
volumes, please see our Organic Cotton Market Report. available for initial estimates, or the methodology has • Updated FAO statistics for other plant-based fibers,
been improved. A simple comparison between previously rubber, and leather were applied.
Recycled cotton, wool, down: As ICAC’s cotton data, reported numbers and data reported in this year does not
IWTO’s wool data, and Maia Research’s down data refer • Updated figures for the production volume of synthetics
show the actual change over time but is caused by these
to virgin production volumes, the recycled cotton, wool, (including recycled polyester), MMCFs, and down were
reasons. The latest data for the reporting period and
and down production volumes were added on top. The applied.
previous years is always published in the latest report.
total cotton, wool, and down production volumes is thus • The latest figures for the number of certified sites per
higher than the volumes reported by ICAC, IWTO, and Maia Key revisions from the 2021 to 2022 report standard were applied, including updates for previous
Research. years.
The following methodological changes were applied in the
Recycled manmade fibers: The total synthetic fiber 2022 version: This means that the following data reported in the 2022
production volumes reported by Maia Research, CIRFS, report slightly differ compared to previous versions:
IVC, in contrast, include the recycled share. Recycled • Abrapa was replaced with ABR for all years.
manmade cellulosic fibers are also assumed to be included • Cleaner Cotton program was discontinued in March • global fiber production volumes.
in the total manmade cellulosic fiber production as 2020 and thus excluded from 2020/21 onwards. • preferred cotton production volumes.
reported by Maia Research, CIRFS, and IVC. • CmiA total cotton data for 2013/14 and 2014/15 were • global plant-based fiber production volumes.
updated. • global synthetics (incl. recycled polyester), MMCFs, and
2. Program specific data
• Field to Market continues to be used as a tool but the down production volumes.
The program specific data such as the number of certified decision was made to discontinue measuring Field to • number of certified sites for several standards.
sites per standard or production volumes are based on Market separatly. The overwhelming majority of cotton
information collected from the programs and initiatives. using Field to Market's Fieldprint Platform to measure
In selected cases, the estimates are based on publicly and analyze environmental performance on the field is
available information (e.g. FSC/PEFC-certified MMCFs). also enrolled in the USCTP, as Field to Market enrollment

CONTENTS Methodology & Disclaimer PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 110
Report scope: Beyond apparel
Fiber and materials are used for a broad range of Around 60-80% of down and feathers are used for home Global Fibers
applications. This report covers the overall fiber and textiles such as bedding and pillows. A smaller percentage
materials production independent of their usages. The is used for apparel. Cotton*
fibers and materials may be used for apparel, home Jute
textiles, technical textiles, or any other application. Around 30-60% of polyester fibers are used for apparel, Coir
20-35% are used for home textiles, and the remaining part Linen/flax**
Textile Exchange has conducted a desk research and for various other applications. Sisal
stakeholder consultation to estimate the percentages Ramie
of the global fiber and materials volumes by application. Polyamide fibers are used in various applications. The Hemp

While solid figures do not exist on a global level, the percentage estimates range widely from less than 10% to Kapok
more than 50% of the global polyamide fiber production Abaca
graphic on the right side is meant to visualize the rough
average percentage estimates by application for the being used for apparel. A significant share of polyamide
Wool
different fibers and materials. The main purpose of the fibers is used for home textiles such as carpets as well as
Cashmere
graph is to show that the percentages used for apparel technical and industrial applications. Mohair
vary by fiber and material and that only parts of all fibers Alpaca
Manmade cellulosics such as viscose, lyocell, modal, and
and materials produced and covered in this report are used Down & Feathers
cupro are mainly used for apparel with around 50-80% Silk
by the apparel and home textile industry.
of their production. An exception is acetate fibers, used
primarily for cigarette filters, and only a small percentage Viscose
Please note that the percentages keep changing over time Lyocell
and that huge regional differences exist as well. (about 5%) is used for apparel.
Modal
Leather is mainly used for footwear with around 40-50% Acetate
Cotton is mainly used for apparel accounting for around
Cupro
60-70% of the total cotton fiber production. Around 20- of its production. Around 5-10% are used for apparel,
30% of all cotton is used for home textiles, and about 10% 10-15% for home textiles, and the remaining part for other Polyester

for other products. applications such as leather goods (bags), the automotive Polyamide (Nylon)
industry or other products. Polypropylene
Wool is also mainly used for apparel accounting for around Acrylic
60-70% of the total sheep wool. Approximately 30-40% of Natural rubber is mainly used for tires with around 65- Elastane (Spandex)

all sheep wool is used for home textiles and the remaining 70% of its production. Only a small percentage is used for
apparel. Leather
part for other applications.
Natural Rubber

Other animal fibers such as cashmere, mohair, alpaca,


and silk are predominantly used for apparel. ■ Apparel ■ Home Textiles ■ Other
Trousers, shirts, jackets, Furnishing, bedcovers, Industrial products,
underwear, socks, bedsheets, pillowcases, technical products,
shawls, bathrobes, and curtains, towels, carpets, medical products,
similar. rugs, and similar. footwear, and similar.

CONTENTS Methodology & Disclaimer PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 111
Acknowledgements

PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 112


Acknowledgements
We would like to extend our sincere gratitude to all that have contributed data and expertise for their continued and valuable cooperation, as well as to those who provided stories and photos,
which help to bring the report to life, particularly:

• Aalto University • Circ • Fairtrade International • Itochu • Pinnacle • SaXcell


• ABRAPA • Chargeurs Luxury • Far Eastern • IVC • PEFC • Södra
• Accelerating Circularity Materials • FibL • IWTO • Plastics for Change • Taekwang Industrial
• Aditya Birla • China Green Plastic • Field to Market • JB Ecotex • Polygenta • Taishoboeski Industries
• Adriano di Marti • Circular Systems • First Mile • Jeplan • Radici Group • Takihyo
• Advansa • CIRFS • Flocus • Jilin Chemical Fiber • Recover • Thai Polyester
• Aero Fiber • Cixi Xingke • FSC • Kintra Fibers • Re:down • Transitional Cotton
• AGL Polyfil • Cleaner Cotton • Fuhrmann • Leather Working Group • REEL • The Movement
• Agronomes et • CmiA • Fulgar • Leit & Held • ROC • Thread
Vétérinaires sans • Cotton Connect • Gatron • Lenzing • Reliance Industries • Ultrafabrics
frontières • Covation Biomaterials • GCS • Lycra • Renewcell • USCTP
• Aksa • CWF • Geentanjali Woollens • Maia Research • RN • UNFCCC
• Algiknit • DBT Fibre • Genomatica • Mohair South Africa • Sappi • Unifi
• AltMat • DNFI • Giotex • myBMP • Sateri • Vitrolabs
• Applied DNA Sciences • Downpass • GOTS • Nan Ya Plastics • Säntis • Virent
• Arkema • Eastman • GP Cellulose • Natural Fiber Welding • SFA • WCS
• Asahi Kasei • EcoBlue • Green Gold • Neelam Fibers • SFI • Wildlife Friendly
• Asia Pacific Rayon • Ecopel Enterprise Network
• HELM • New Zealand Merino • Shaniko Wool Company
• AVSF • European Confederation Company • Worn Again
• Hilaturas Ferre • Shinkong
• BASF e3 of Linen and Hemp • Nilit • Xingke
• Himalayan Wild Fibers • Spiber
• Better Cotton • Evrnu • Nova Institute • ZDHC
• ICAC • Spinnova
• Bear Fiber • Fabrikology • Nurel • Zheijang Haili
• IMBOTEX • Sulochana Cotton
• Birla Cellulose • FAO • NSF Spinning Mills Environmental
• Infinited Fiber Company
• BlockTexx • FARM Technology
• Interplume • Orange Fiber • Sustainable Composites
• Bolt Threads • Fashion For Good • Pashupati • Sustainable Down Source
• inserco
• Carbios • Fashion Positive • PHOENXT • Sustainable Fibre Alliance
• ISCC

CONTENTS Acknowledgements PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 113


Acknowledgements
Core team

• Sophia Opperskalski
• Amy Franz
• Andrea Patanè
• SuetYin Siew
• Evonne Tan

With support from:


• Lisa Barsley
• Hanna Denes
• Rui Fontoura
• Anne Gillespie
• Amish Gosai
• Anna Heaton
• Nicholas Johnson
• Nicole Lambert
• Sandra Marquardt
• Siobhan Momberg
• Megan Stoneburner

References and feedback

A significantly growing number of organizations and


publications are referring to our Preferred Fiber and
Materials Market Report. We want to start tracking the
references to our report and hear your feedback. Please
share your feedback and inform us about references to our
report.

Photo: SFI

CONTENTS Acknowledgements PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 114

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