Professional Documents
Culture Documents
& Materials
Market Report
Acknowledgements112
Global wool fiber production was relatively unchanged Global alpaca fiber production was around 6,000 tonnes Leather
at around 1 million tonnes in 2021. Conventional wool in 2021. In April 2021, Textile Exchange launched its
Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS) with animal Leather—measured in terms of fresh hides of cattle,
accounts for the vast majority of the wool market but the
welfare and responsible land use criteria. The first sheep, goat, and buffalo, had a global production volume
market for non-mulesed and preferred wool programs is
groups in Peru have been certified to RAS, but the certified of around 12.5 million tonnes in 2021. Until recently, leather
increasing. The market share of wool produced according
alpaca fiber is already committed to specific supply chains. processing risks (tanning, chemical use) have been the
to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ, and
It will take time to build the volume of certified fiber in order main focus, but there is a growing interest in animal welfare,
SustainaWOOL GOLD and GREEN reached around 3% in
to make it available on the open market. deforestation, land use change (and associated biodiversity
2021. The RWS market share alone increased from 1.23%
loss), and climate change issues. Textile Exchange has
in 2020 to 2.62% in 2021 on a global average. In the key
Cashmere developed the Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA), which
apparel wool producing countries, tthe market shares
includes Impact Incentives, a tool that allows brands to
were as high as 30% in South Africa, 17% in Uruguay, Global cashmere production was around 26,344 tonnes directly support farmers that are addressing deforestation
and 15% in Argentina. Transitioning to wool programs of greasy fibers in 2021. The market share of the and conversion, as well as animal welfare at all cattle
with both animal welfare and responsible land use criteria cashmere programs—AVFS, Good Cashmere Standard®, farming levels. The first Leather Impact Incentives were
in place offers the potential to create positive impacts on Responsible Nomads, SFA Cashmere Standard, and traded between brands and Brazilian farmers in 2021.
animal welfare, land use, and biodiversity. Recycled wool WCS combined—significantly increased from 6.6% of all
had a market share of around 6% of the global total wool cashmere produced worldwide in 2020 to 17.4% in 2021. Rubber
market.
Down The global natural rubber production was around 15 million
Mohair tonnes in 2021. Natural rubber had an approximate market
Global down production volume was estimated at around share of 49% of the global total 31 million tonnes rubber
Global mohair fiber production in 2021 was around 4,320 0.57 million tonnes in 2021. Awareness of animal market in 2021. Synthetic rubber accounted with 16 million
tonnes of greasy fiber. The Responsible Mohair Standard welfare issues has led to successful growth in the use tonnes for 51% of the global rubber market in 2021. In 2021,
(RMS), covering both animal welfare and responsible of standards such as the Responsible Down Standard FSC- and PEFC-certified rubber reached a market share
land use criteria, was launched in March 2020. Its (RDS) with a market share of 3.2% and Downpass with of 2.7%.
market share reached 20% in 2020, its first year of a market share of around 1.2% of the total down market.
existence, and increased to 35% of all mohair produced While influencing change at the farm level is challenging, The number of certified sites increased sharply
worldwide in 2021. The RMS market share increased to the use of preferred down standards helps to reduce the
67% of the total mohair production in South Africa and 42% risks along the supply chain. The number of sites certified to Textile Exchange’s portfolio
of the total mohair production in Australia in 2021. of standards significantly increased from 29,699 in 2020 to
Other fibers 48,868 in 2021. This includes sites certified to the Global
Recycled Standard (GRS), Organic Content Standard
Other fibers—from hemp to elastane—are starting to gain (OCS), Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), Content Claim
the industry’s attention. The report highlights innovations Standard (CCS), Responsible Down Standard (RDS), and
from Pineapple Leaf Fibers (PALF) to CO2-based fibers. Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).
Global fiber production (million tonnes) Global fiber production (kilograms per person)
Global fiber production (million tonnes) and % recycled 109 111
Textile Exchange's GHG emissions scenario model on 149
102 17.5
the Climate+ page in this report shows the importance of 99 111
128 15.6 109
102
Polyester
rethinking growth, transitioning to preferred fibers, and Polyamide (nylon) 99 14.0
109 13.4
innovation in order to limit global warming to 1.5° Celsius
99 Synthetics, other
MMCF 11.1 11.3
compared to pre-industrial levels. 79 Cotton
73
9.2 9.4
Plant-based, other
8.4 8.5 8.6 8.8
58
51 Wool
45 46
38 Animal, other
34
Down
Silk
1 Textile Exchange compilation based on data from ICAC, FAO, IWTO, Mohair South Africa,
6.89% 7.10% 7.20% 7.55%
inserco, CIRFS, IVC, Maia
1975Research,
1980 and 1985 its own
1990modelling.
1995 Volumes2000 of certain
2005 2010 minority
2015 2020 2025 2030
fibers such as PTT, carbon, aramid, PLA, PBS, and PEF are not included. Textile Exchange
Source: Textile Exchange 8
allocates the ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the respective calendar year (e.g. 1975 1980 198520161990 1995 2000 2005 2010
2017 2015 2020 2025 2030 2018 2019
Note:
7.55%
Textile Exchange compilation based on data from ICAC, FAO, IWTO, Mohair South Africa, inserco, CIRFS, IVC, maia research, and its own modeling. Volumes of
2020/21 cotton productioncertain
volumesminorityto the
fibers 2021
such calendar
as PTT, year).
carbon, aramid, MMCFs
PLA, PBS, and PEFand synthetic
are not fibers
included. This report allocates the ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the
respective calendar year (e.g. 2020/21 cotton production volumes to the 2021 calendar year).MMCFs and synthetic fibers volumes include staple fiber and filament. Source: Textile Exchange based on UN data and global data compilations 7.10%
6.89% 7.20%
volumes include staple fiber and filament. Please note that the percent market shares may Recycled Total (recycled + virgin) Recycled %
8
Source: Textile Exchange based on UN data and global data compilations
differ from other sources because our overview includes other plant fibers, other wool, down Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
and silk—all fibers which are often not included in other global statistics—and due to different 2016 2017 2018 2019
Global fiber In
ICAC cotton year allocations. production
general, all (million
globaltonnes)
figuresand are % recycled
estimates.
Recycled Total (recycled + virgin) Recycled %
2 Textile Exchange based on "UN Population Division, 2020. World Population Prospects 111 113
109 109
2019. Link." and volume data as specified in footnote (1). 102 Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
99
CONTENTS The Global Fiber Market PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 9
The global fiber market 2021
Synthetic fibers have dominated the fiber Cotton is the second most important
market since the mid-1990s, when they fiber in terms of volume. With about 24.7 Global fiber production in 2021 (in million tonnes)
overtook cotton volumes. With around 72 million tonnes, it had a market share
52+5+1246F
million tonnes of synthetic fibers, this fiber of approximately 22% of global fiber Plant fibers: ~31.3 (~28%) Animal fibers: ~1.8 (~1.62%)
category made up approximately 64% of the production in 2021. Read more here.
Cotton: ~24.7 (~22%) Wool (sheep): ~1.0 (~0.92%)
global fiber production in 2021. Read more
Other: ~ 6.7 (~5.9%) Other: ~0.69 (~0.71%)
here. Other plant-based fibers, including jute,
Down: ~0.57 (~0.51%)
flax, hemp, and others, had a market share
Silk: ~0.17 (~0.15%)
Polyester alone had a market share of of about 6%. Read more here.
Other fibers: ~0.05 (~0.05%)
around 54% of total global fiber production.
Approximately 60.5 million tonnes of Manmade cellulosics fibers (MMCFs), with
polyester were produced in 2021. Read more a global production volume of around 7.2
here. million tonnes, had a market share of around
6.4% in 2021. Read more here.
Polyamide—the second most used
synthetic fiber—accounted for 5.9 million Animal fibers had a market share of 1.6% in ~113
tonnes and approximately 5% of the global 2021. Read more here.
million
fiber market in 2021. Read more here.
Wool had a market share of around 1 %, tonnes
The other synthetics—polypropylene, with a global production volume of around 1
acrylics, and elastane—had a market share million tonnes. Read more here.
of 5.2%, with a combined production volume
Down and feathers had a market share of
of 5.8 million tonnes in 2021. Read more
around 0.5% of the global fiber market.
here.
Read more here.
Plant fibers, including cotton, jute, hemp,
Silk had a market share of around 0.2%.
flax, and others, had a combined market Manmade cellulosic fibers: ~7.2 (~6.4%) Synthetic fibers: ~72.2 (~64%)
Read more here.
share of around 28% of the global fiber Viscose: ~5.8 (~5.11%) Polyester: 60.5 (~54%)
market in 2021. Other: ~1.4 (~1.3%) Polyamide: ~5.9 (~5%)
Acetate: ~0.9 (~0.84%) Other: ~5.8 (~5.2%)
Lyocell: ~0.3 (~0.28%) Polypropylene: ~3.0 (~2.7%)
Modal: ~0.2 (~0.17%) Acrylics: ~1.7 (~1.5%)
Cupro: ~0.02 (~0.01%) Elastane: ~1.2 (~1.0%)
CONTENTS The Global Fiber Market PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 10
The global fiber market 2021: Program overview
Animal Manmade
Fibers Cellulosics
Plant Fibers (~28%) (~2%) (~6%) Synthetic Fibers (~64%)
1 This graph aims to inform the industry about the global total production volumes and the shares covered by different programs. Our definition of “Preferred” is currently being updated, and the assessment of the programs along a continuum of different levels of preferred is work-in-progress. For
more information see also our methodology chapter.
2 Conventional and unknown. This includes volumes of preferred or potentially preferred but unassessed programs for which data are not accessible or available.
3 Other synthetic fibers include polypropylene (PP), acrylics (AC), and elastane (EL).
4 Renewable recognized programs include here all the recognized programs listed in this chart apart from the recycled fibers.
CONTENTS The Global Fiber Market PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 11
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2025 2030 128 15.6
Polyester
Polyamide (nylon) 14.0
Source: Textile Exchange 109 13.4
99 Synthetics, other
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995
11.3
2000 2005 2010 2015 20
Note: Textile Exchange compilation based on data from ICAC, FAO, IWTO, Mohair South Africa, inserco, CIRFS, IVC, maia research, and its own modeling. Volumes MMCF of 11.1
certain minority fibers such as PTT, carbon, aramid, PLA, PBS, and PEF are not included. This report allocates the
79 ICAC year which ends in a calendar year to the
Cotton
respective calendar year (e.g. 2020/21 cotton production volumes to the 2021 calendar year).MMCFs and 73
synthetic fibers volumes include staple fiber and filament. Source: Textile9.2
Exchange based on9.4
UN data and global data compilations
Plant-based, other
8.4 8.5 8.6 8.8
58
with vast potential to reduce GHG emissions to mitigate Global fiber production (million tonnes) and % recycled
Global fiber production (million tonnes) and % recycled
climate change, prevent biodiversity loss, halt negative 111 113
109 109
impacts on soil health, and reduce water consumption. 99
102
8
8 9
9 10 10
post-consumer recycled textiles in 2021.
2016 2016 2017 2017 2018 2018 2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021
Recycled Total (recycled + virgin) Recycled %
Recycled Total (recycled + virgin) Recycled %
The market share of recycled fibers increased from 8.1% in Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
2020 to 8.5% in 2021, and the percentage of virgin fibers Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation
The market shares for recycled cotton and recycled down ~1% ~1% ~0.5% ~0.2%
are estimated at roughly 1% of the total cotton and down
production volume in 2021.
Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation
CONTENTS The Global Fiber Market PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 12
Plant Fibers & Materials:
Cotton
The market share of cotton covered by the of requirements, their approaches to Virgin cotton
recognized programs,1 also referred to as assurance, as well as degrees of traceability Global cotton fiber production (thousand tonnes and %)
"preferred cotton", decreased from 27% ofSelect Yearthroughout the supply chain. Preferred cotton fiber production (thousand tonnes and percent)
the total cotton production in 2019/20 to 2020/21 27,855 27,078 26,224 26,234 27,000 25,983 26,271
24,381
24% in 2020/21 after years of growth. 1,2 All
Preferred Better
cotton fiberCotton, including
production (thousand its
tonnes equivalents
and percent)
21,647
23,378
ABR, Preferred
CmiA,5,935 ICPSS, and myBMP, made up
This equals a decrease in global production around 19% of all cotton in 2020/21 and 27%
20% 24%
volume of cotton produced according to thus, the majority of24% the 24% of preferred 7% 8% 12% 16%
24%
3% 3%
these programs from 7.2 million tonnes in cotton in 2020/21. The Better Cotton
Conventional / Unknown 2011/12 2012/13 2013/14 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
18,446
2019/20 to 6 million tonnes in 2020/21.2 without equivalents accounted for around Preferred Conventional / Unknown Preferred %
Total cotton:
496
24.4 million tonnes 4.71
4.33
14.15
6.30
5.92 5.65
6.33
the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge (see All other cotton programs together, 1,969
2,505
10.98 12.18
9.80
11.70 10.99 10.50 11.76
47
more on page “Commitments to Preferred including BASF 23 e3, Fairtrade, ICPSS, ISCC,
36
0
9
Fairtrade ≈ 18 (0.07%) 0.00 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
Cotton”). organic
2014/15 , REEL cotton, and the
³ 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
2015/16 2016/17 2014/15USCTP,
2015/16 2016/17 had
2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 Fairtrade Organic Fairtrade Non-Organic
IC
RE
BA
IS
U
Fa
Fa
RO
Cm
Cm
M
1,968
Be
O
BR
SC
rg
yB
CC
PS
i
tt
E
to lack of data for most years, but an estimate for 2020/21 is reported in the program-specific section.
SF
rt
rt
iA
iA
a
L
1,542
er
216
TP
M
ra
ra
S
ni
e3
P
d
C
c
2 Textile Exchange based on "ICAC, 2022. World Cotton Statistics May 2022" for the total virgin cotton production volumes and the cotton
rg
e
ot
(w
1,050
to
ni
/o
programs received by email. Overlaps of programs excluded. 832
rg
768
n
c
a
ov
(w
ni
0.04
3 This includes organic cotton certified to Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC), and supplier-specific programs such as bioRe.
er
c
/o
la
eq
0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0 0 0 0 0
ps
4 The Better Cotton, including equivalents, as reported by BCI. It slightly 2014/15
differs2015/16
from2016/17
the aggregate of the data provided 2014/15
by the2015/16
individual
.)
)
2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
programs because minor parts of their volumes are not accounted as Better Cotton equivalent and due to somewhat differing data collection and
reporting methodology.
Source: Textile Exchange based on program owners
in thousand tonnes and % of total cotton
5 Better Cotton, 2013. Better Cotton sets 2020 growth target. Link.
Conventional / Unknown 2011/12 2012/13 2013/14 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19
0.70
2019/20
0.70
2020/21
402 402 215 4.35 4.35
18,446 was produced according to the Better cotton that is certified to both, Fairtrade 3,262 3,262
0.61 0.61
320 320 60 60
Preferred Conventional
2,505 2,505 / Unknown Preferred %
Cotton equivalents ABR, Cotton made in and an organic standard, was
1,969 1,969
around 11,763 161 32 32 12.18 12.18
10.98 10.98 9.80 9.80
11.7
2014/152014/15
2015/1622015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/182017/18
2018/192018/19
2019/202019/20
2020/212020/21 Fairtrade
Fairtrade
OrganicOrgaF
19% of all cotton production in 2020/21. In certified to an organic standard. 2014/15
2014/15
2015/162015/16
2016/172016/17
2017/182017/18
2018/19
2018/19
2019/20
2019/20
2020/212020/21 2014/152014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/172016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/192018/19
2019/202019/20
2020/212020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/162015/16
2016/17 2016/17
36
2017/18 2017/18
472018/192018/19
23
2019/20
2019/20
2020/212020/21
Better Cotton Initiative Cleaner Cotton Cotton Made in137 Africa 148 148
229 229
Fairtrade Israel Cotton Standard
Production
1,542 1,542
System
Standard
249 249 System ISCC
Pakistan, a major6,205 production region, could and Marketing Board (ICB)'s new standard 137
133 133 240 240
630 138 138 18.00 145 145
18.10
109 109
have been destroyed
5,628 due to the floods. (developed in 2018)—was recognized579
1.01 as 593 677
15.69
16.52 16.91
16.15
1,050 1,050 181 181 6
5,142 0.91 0.88 103 103 768 832
768 832
14.15
Read more here. 4,670
0.75
equivalent to the Better Cotton Standard
496
4.71
4.33 6.30
5.92 5.65
6.33
112 112107 107
118 118
0.70 402 60 604.35 0.04 0.04 48 48
3,262
0.61 System (BCSS) in 2020 and 320 is thus 32 32 31 31 30 30
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 0 00 00 0020
12 12
1,969
Cleaner
2,505 Cotton production was 0 0 0 0 0included
0 0 for
0 the first time 0 in0 2020/21.
0 0 0 0 5,708 2014/15 12.18
10.982014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 11.70
9.80 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19
10.99 2018/19
2019/20 11.76
10.50 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2014/15
2015/16 2015/16
2016/17 2016/17
2017/1
funding for the regular farm program ended. in 2020/21, equaling 0.00 0.02% of all cotton Source: Source:
2014/15 Textile
2015/16Textile
Exchange
2016/17 Exchange
2017/18 based
2018/19based
on program
2019/20 on program
2020/21 owners owners 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Fairtrade Organic Fairtrade Non-Organic
2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
Regenerative
Regenerative produced
OrganicOrganic Certifiedin 2020/21. 2014/15 Responsible
2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
Certified
2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21
Responsible Brazilian
Brazilian
Cotton Cotton U.S. U.S.Cotton Cotton TrustTrust Protocol
Protocol
2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2
311 311
ISCC certified myBMP 0.21 0.21 Organic Cotton
2,027 2,027
2,334 2,334
1,968 1,968
REEL
Regenerative Organic Certified Responsible
229
1,542 1,542 342 216 216
187 MapMap Detail
Detail
148 the standard owners, which we have received through email correspondence or from their websites.
The data is based on information from 249 0.21
137 240 140
133
The production volumes reported here include the total volume produced per standard including equivalents and overlaps with 1,050
other1,050
standards. Preferred
Preferred
cotton
cotton
across
across
the globe
the globe
2021 2021
(tonnes)
(tonnes)
138 145 832 832
109 768 768 181
103
0.04 0.04
112 118 63 1,050
107
0.00 60
0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 480 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 832
768
32 31 2019/20 30
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton
2014/15
2014/15
2015/16
2015/16
2016/17
2016/17
2017/18
2017/18
2018/19
2018/19
2019/20 2020/21
2020/21 2014/15
2014/15
2015/16
2015/16
2016/17
2016/17
2017/18
2017/18
2018/19
2018/19
2019/20
2019/20
2020/21
2020/21 2014/15
2014/15
2015/16
12
2015/16
2016/17 20 2017/18
2016/17
2017/18 2018/19 PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET0.04
2018/19
2019/20
2019/20
2020/21
2020/21 REPORT 15
0 0 0
2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Source:
Source:
Textile
Textile
Exchange
Exchange
based
based
on program
on program
owners
owners 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17
Preferred
Preferred
cotton cotton
fiber production
fiber production
(thousand
(thousand
tonnestonnes
and percent)
and percent) 24,381 24,381
2020/212020/21
21,647 21,647
23,378 23,378 27,855 27,855 27,078 2
Preferred
Preferred
cotton fiber
cottonproduction
fiber production
(thousand
(thousand
tonnes tonnes
and percent)
and percent)
Preferred
Preferred
5,935 5,935 Preferred
Preferred
cottoncotton
production
production
by program
by program
(thousand
(thousand
tonnes)
tonnes)
Preferred
Preferred
5,935 5,935
BASF e3
BASF e3 Better Cotton
Better Cotton
Initiative
Initiative 27% Cleaner
27%
24% Cleaner CottonCotton CottonCotto
Mad
Virgin cotton
20% 20% 24%
24% 24% 215 215 12% 12% 16% 16% 6,205 6,205
7% 7% 8% 8% 1.01 24% 24%
1.01
3% 3% 3% 3% 5,628 5,628 579
5,142 5,142 24% 24% 0.91 0.91
0.88 0.88 496 4
production in Greece in All ISCC- 2020/21. This was less than 0.01% of all 148 148
2152020/21.
2 137 137
133 133
630 630
215 6,205 6,205
1.01 1.01 BASF e3BASF593 e3 593 677 677 Better Cotton
Better 18.00Cotton
Initiative
16.91 Initiative
18.00
16.91 145
18.10 18.10
CleanerCl C
certified cotton in 2020/21 was produced in 5,142 cotton5,628 produced
5,142
5,628 worldwide in 2020/21. 0.91 0.91
0.88 0.88
579
109
579
109 15.69
16.52
15.69 138
16.52
14.15
138
14.15
16.15 16.15 145
181
496 496 215 215 6.30 6.30 6,205 6.33
6,205 6.33
161 161 4,670 4,670 4.33 4.33
Greece. Since then, ROC further expanded
0.75 its 0.70
0.75
0.70 402 402
4.71 4.71
4.35 4.35
103
5.92
5,628
103
5.92
5.65
5,628 5.65
112 112 118
1.01
11
5,142 5,142 107 107
0.61 0.61
3,262 coverage in India and included cotton from
3,262 320 320 161 161 60 60 4,670 4,670
0.75 0.75
32 32 31 31 0.70 0.7
2,505 2,505
myBMP cotton production increased 1,969 from
1,969 Ecuador for the first time.0 00 00 00 0 0 00 00 0
10.98 12.18
10.98 3,26212.18 11.70
9.80 9.80 10.99
3,262
11.70 10.50 10.99 11.76 10.50 11.76 0.61 0.61
47 47
31,41136
tonnes
36
in 2019/20—which
23 23 was a huge 2016/17 2016/17
2017/18 2017/18
2018/19 2018/19
2019/20 2019/20
2020/21 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2,505
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
1,969
2014/152016/17
1,969
2,505
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/
201
0
9
0
9
drop compared to previous years due to a Responsible Brazilian Cotton—ABRAPA's 0.00 0.00 36
47
36
47 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21
2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 23 23 Fairtrade Organic
Fairtrade Organic
Fairtrade Non-Organic
Fairtrade Non-Organic
severe drought in Australia—to 144,528
2014/152016/17
Algodão
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
Brasileiro
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
Responsável
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
(ABR)—
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
0
92014/152016/17
0
2015/16
9 2017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21
Regenerative
RegenerativeOrganic Organic
Certified Certified Responsible Responsible Brazilian Brazilian
Cotton Cotton U.S. Cotton
U.S. Cotton
Trust Protocol
Trust Protocol
production decreased from 2.3 million 2014/15 2015/16
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16
Organic
2017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/18
cotton
2019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
REEL REEL
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016/17 2018/19
2017/18 2019/20
2018/19 2020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/1
2016
Israel Cotton
Israeltonnes
Cotton
Productionin 2020/21,
Production
Standard equaling
Standard
SystemSystem 0.60% of all ISCC certified ISCC certified myBMP myBMP Organic Organic
Cotton Cotton REEL 311 311
cotton produced worldwide in 2020/21. tonnes in 2019/20 to around 2.0 million 0.21 0.21 2,027 2,027 1,968
2,334 2,334 1,968
Israel Cotton
Israel Cotton
Production Production
Standard Standard
System342 System 342 ISCC certifiedISCC certified myBM
myBMP is also accounted as Better Cotton
6 6
tonnes in 2020/21. 148 148
This decline was caused 229 229
1,542 1,542 216
187
216
187
137 137 240 249
240 249 140 140
1,050 293,204
1,050 ha of land Preferred
were Preferred
cotton
in-conversion cotton
across across
the
in globethe 2021
globe (tonnes)
2021 (tonnes) 1,542 1,542
specific programs such as bioRe®. 768
For832 more832
768 India India
information on organic cotton please see 2020/21. For more details, please have a 1,050 1,050
0.04 0.04 832 832 United States
United States
our0.00Organic Cotton Market Report 2022. look at the Organic Cotton Market Report 768 768
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00
0.00 0.00 0 00 00 00 00 0
0.04 0.04
2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/152016/17
2022.
2015/162017/18
2016/172018/19
Branded
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
in-conversion
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
cotton
2014/152016/17
is
2015/162017/18
still
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21
Côte d'Ivoire Côte d'Ivoire 237 237
0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.000.00 0.00 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
REEL cotton production increased from rare. One example is the Pre Organic Cotton China China 153 2014/151532015/16
2014/15 2015/16
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016/172018/19
2017/182019/20
2018/192020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16
2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016/17 2018/19
2017/18 2019/20
2018/19 2020/21
2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2016/17
2015/16 2017/18
2016
Source: 140,067
Source:
Textile Textile tonnes
Exchange basedin
Exchange on 2019/20
basedprogram to 186,589
on program
owners owners (POC) program initiated by Itochu and
Greece Greece 150 150
tonnes in 2020/21. This amount equaled kurkku. Source:Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange based on based
program on program
owners owners
Turkey Turkey 148 148
1 ISCC cotton volumes are collected by calendar year, not ICAC harvest year. The data from the 2021 calendar year have been allocated to theTop 10Top
preferred
10 preferred
cotton cotton
countries
countries
by volume
by volume
2021 (thousand
2021 (thousand
tonnes)tonnes) Cameroon Cameroon 146 146
Map Map DetailDetail
2020/21 ICAC harvest year, the 2020 calendar year data to the 2019/20 ICAC harvest year.
Australia 141
Australia 141
Map Map
1,969 1,969
DetailDetail
Brazil Brazil
Preferred
Preferred
cotton cotton
acrossacross
the globe
the 2021
globe(tonnes)
2021 (tonnes)
India India 1,071 1,071
©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
©
© 2022
TomTom, ©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
2022 Microsoft
TomTom, ©© 2022
Microsoft
©
Corporation,
2022 Microsoft
Microsoft Corporation,
Corporation,
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMap©
Corporation,
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMap
Chad 51
Chad 51
Preferred
Preferred
cotton across
cotton across
the globe
the2021
globe
(tonnes)
2021 (tonnes)
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 16
United States
United States 749 749
Source:
Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange
based on based
cottonon programs
cotton programs Source:
Source:
Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange
based on
based
cotton
on prog
cott
Côte d'Ivoire
Côte d'Ivoire 237 237
Preferred cotton production by program (thousand tonnes)
BASF e3 Better Cotton Initiative Cleaner Cotton Cotton Made in Africa Fairtrade
215 6,205 630 18.00 18.10
1.01 579 593 677 16.52 16.91
Virgin cotton
5,628 15.69 16.15
5,142 0.91 0.88 496 14.15
161 4.33 6.30 6.33
4,670 5.92
0.75 4.71 5.65
0.70 402 4.35
0.61
tonnes
2014/15 2015/16 in 2017/18
2016/17 2019/202018/19to 310,568
2019/20 2020/21 tonnes in 2020/21.
2014/15 This
2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17 2017/18 2018/19 2019/20 2020/21 Fairtrade Organic Fairtrade Non-Organic
In January 2022, the Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF)—
equaled around 10% of all cotton produced in the US and
Israel Cotton the non-profit responsiblemyBMP
for CmiA—and Better Cotton
1.72%Production
of all cotton Standard
produced System worldwide in 2020/21. ISCCThecertified Organic Cotton
1996 IFOAM set first international organic
REEL
announced that the sale of CmiA as Better Cotton will be
environmental performance of U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol standard
342
6
discontinued at the end of 2022.
229 Both organizations will 187
cotton is measured and analyzed at the field-level using 137 148
240 249 140
133 continue to collaborate but focus on concrete projects that
Field to Market’s Fieldprint Platform and verified with 109 138
create lasting benefits.
145
1996
181 Sustainable Cotton Project (SCP) / Cleaner
Control Union Certifications. 103 Cotton founded
112 118 63
107
60 48
funding for the regular farm program ended. 2004 Fairtrade standard for seed cotton
established
U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
Regenerative Organic Certified
The QAI Transitional Responsible
program was discontinued Brazilian Cotton
in 2020. U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
when NSF made the decision to discontinue textile 311 2005 BCI founded
0.21 2,027 2,334 1,968
certification.
1,542 216 2005 Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) founded
Field to Market continues to be used as a tool but the
1,050
decision was made to discontinue measuring 768 832 Field to
2009 ABRAPA’s sustainability program started
Market separately. Most 0.04 of the cotton using Field to
The ICPSS cotton standard was recognized as equivalent Tip: How to find out more about the different 2013 Field to Market launched
Top 10 preferred cotton countries by volume 2021 (thousand tonnes)
to the Better Cotton Standard System (BCSS) in 2020 and Map cotton programs.
Detail
is thus included for the first time in 2020/21. Brazil
2013 Bayer CropScience’s e3 cotton program 1,969
Preferred cotton across the globe 2021 (tonnes) To learn more about the specific programs, what (now BASF e3) launched
they cover, and how they differ, check
India out the 1,071
CottonUp Guide. 2018749Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)
United States
launched
Côte d'Ivoire 237
Turkey 148
Cameroon 146
17+83
Total cotton
47+53 89+11
BANGLADESH INDIA PAKISTAN
3+97
>1 million t GREECE SPAIN
Total cotton
Total: 321,000 t
ISCC: 148,158 t (46%)
1+99 Total: 64,000 t
Organic: 26 t (0.04%)
Total: 35,000 t
REEL: 999 t (3%)
Total: 6,307,000 t
Better Cotton: 829,508 t (13%)
Total: 890,000 t
Better Cotton: 682,000 t (77%)
47% 0.04% 3% Conventional: 34,001 t (97%) 17% Organic: 130,849 t* (2%) *incl. ROC 83% REEL: 52,891 t (6%)
>300,000 t Organic: 1,827 t (0.6%) Conventional: 63,974 t (99.96%)
Conventional: 171,015 t (53%) Fairtrade: 15,097 t (0.24%)4 Organic: 1,925 t (0.22%)
REEL: 105,349 t (2%) Fairtrade: undisclosed2
Conventional: 5,236,010 t (83%) Conventional: 153,184 t (17%)
Total cotton
>100,000 t
Central Asia
Total cotton
< 100,000 t
KAZAKHSTAN
23+77
KYRGYZSTAN
23+77
This chart lists only countries
24+76 1+99
where cotton is produced UNITED STATES TAJIKISTAN
according to one of the listed UZBEKISTAN
cotton programs. Total: 3,201,000 t Total: 111,000 t
Better Cotton: 13,539 t (12%) Total: 1,028,000 t
Big cotton producing countries SCTP: 310,568 t (10%)
23% Better Cotton: 217,469 t (7%) 24% Organic: 13,648 t (12%) Organic: 465 t (0.05%)
(>100,000t) with no cotton
BASF e3: 214,861 t (7%) Fairtrade: undisclosed 0.05% Conventional: 1,027,535 t (99.95%)
covered by the programs
are: Mexico, Turkmenistan,
Argentina, Myanmar, Sudan.
Organic: 5,821 t (0.2%)
Conventional: 2,452,281 t (77%) Africa Conventional: 83,813 t (2)
Latin America and the Caribbean Eastern and South-Eastern Asia Australia and New Zealand
1 Cotton program-specific data were collected from the programs. Total cotton production data are from ICAC. Conventional cotton volumes were calculated by Textile Exchange. Better Cotton refers here to Better Cotton (excl. equivalents). Better Cotton equivalents are listed separately. Volumes in
metric tonnes (t).
2 Fairtrade data are not disclosed on a per-country level due to confidentiality reasons. The volume for all programs in this country does not include Fairtrade cotton and is thus actually slightly higher.
3 Cotton volume covered by the programs as share (%) of the country's total global cotton production volume.
4 The total Fairtrade cotton production in India was 15,097 tonnes in 2020/21, including around 9,813 tonnes of Fairtrade organic.
5 The percentage of a country’s cotton that is covered by the cotton programs is derived from the difference between Textile Exchange’s reported cotton programs production for that country and the overall cotton production of that country reported by ICAC. In some countries, there is a discrepancy
between the two. Both ICAC and Textile Exchange rely on secondary data. We are trying our best to understand more about this discrepancy. You can learn more about Textile Exchange’s data collection methodology here, and about the sources of ICAC’s cotton statistics here.
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 18
Virgin cotton
Cotton production by program in Africa in 2020/21
Legend:1
Total cotton
>1 million t Sub-Saharan Africa Northern Africa
EGYPT
3+97
5+95
Total cotton
100 100
>300,000 t BENIN BURKINA FASO CAMEROON Total: 58,000 t
Total cotton
100+0
CHAD COTE D’IVOIRE ETHIOPIA
67+33 1+99
< 100,000 t
Total: 75,000 t Total: 215,000 t Total: 61,000 t
Cotton programs (%) CmiA: 50,533 t (67%) CmiA: 237,400 t (110%) Organic: 60 t (0.1%)
67% Conventional: 24,467 t (33%) 110% 4
Conventional: none 0.1% Conventional: 60,940 t (99.9%)
Conventional cotton (%)
18+82
SENEGAL SOUTH AFRICA TANZANIA
UGANDA ZAMBIA
1 Cotton program-specific data were collected from the programs. Total cotton production data are from ICAC. Conventional cotton volumes were calculated by Textile Exchange. Better Cotton refers here to Better Cotton (excl. equivalents). Better Cotton equivalents are listed separately. Volumes in
metric tonnes (t).
2 Fairtrade data are not disclosed on a per-country level due to confidentiality reasons. The volume for all programs in this country does not include Fairtrade cotton and is thus actually slightly higher.
3 Cotton volume covered by the programs as share (%) of the country's total global cotton production volume.
4 The percentage of a country’s cotton that is covered by the cotton programs is derived from the difference between Textile Exchange’s reported cotton programs production for that country and the overall cotton production of that country reported by ICAC. In some countries, there is a discrepancy
between the two. Both ICAC and Textile Exchange rely on secondary data. We are trying our best to understand more about this discrepancy. You can learn more about Textile Exchange’s data collection methodology here, and about the sources of ICAC’s cotton statistics here.
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 19
Virgin cotton
Accelerating the transition to preferred cotton
Accelerating the transition to preferred cotton needs of laboratories who have passed the proficiency test to Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), founded in 2016,
the commitment, action, and collaboration of multiple conduct the GMO testing accordingly increased from 14 in is a multi-stakeholder initiative focused on creating a
stakeholders. 2020 to 21 in 2021. prosperous organic cotton sector which benefits everyone
from farmer to consumer. The number of farmers in the
Call to action Key organizations OCA network increased from around 20,000 in 2020/21
to around 80,000 in 2021/2022 according to their latest
Join the Organic Cotton Round Table: The Global Organic Cotton 2040, founded in 2016 and led by Forum for the
Farm Programme Impact Report launched in March 2022.
Cotton Round Table and the Regional Organic Cotton Future, is a platform that aims to accelerate progress
In 2021, OCA also began preparing the expansion of their
Round Tables bring together stakeholders to accelerate and maximize the impact of existing sustainable cotton
program to Pakistan.
the transition to organic cotton. initiatives, bringing together leading international brands
and retailers, sustainable cotton standards, and other Soil Health Institute (SHI), a US-based non-profit
Sign the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge: Signatories stakeholders across the value chain. In 2021, Cotton organization, launched the U.S. Regenerative Cotton Fund
commit to using 100% preferred cotton by 2025. The 2040 and Acclimatise published the new report “Physical in 2021 with the aim to sequester atmospheric carbon
progress is tracked through the Corporate Fiber and Climate Risk for Global Cotton Production” as well as a into soil carbon. SHI also initiated the “Healthy Soils for
Materials Benchmark program. “Cotton 2040 Climate Risk Explorer”. The analysis shows Sustainable Cotton” project to help US cotton farmers
that 50% of cotton-growing regions face high or very high increase their soil health.
Joint initiatives exposure to climate risk. Earlier, Cotton 2040 launched
The Sustainable Cotton Aligned Impacts Measurement CottonUpGuide.org that provides practical information and Textile Exchange, founded as Organic Exchange in 2002,
and Reporting Commitment signatories have worked resources to either start sourcing sustainable cotton or is a global non-profit that works closely with its members
together, convened by Cotton 2040 and The Delta Project, increase volumes. to drive industry transformation in preferred fibers,
to agree on a meaningful, credible and practically feasible integrity and standards, and responsible supply networks.
CottonConnect, founded in 2009, is an enterprise with a Flagship projects related to cotton include the Organic
set of shared core impact indicators and metrics. In
clear mission to transform the cotton industry for good. Cotton Market Report, the Global and Regional Organic
2021, the Better Cotton Initiative, Fairtrade, The Organic
To further investigate the benefit and opportunities Cotton Round Tables, the Sustainable Cotton Round Table,
Cotton Accelerator, and Textile Exchange as well as
for regenerative agriculture in cotton farming, for the and the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge commitment
the CottonConnect and the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol
2020/2021 growing season, CottonConnect started a (progress measured through the Corporate Fiber and
piloted the impact and output indicators. Cotton 2040
Regenerative Agriculture and Carbon Sequestration Pilot Materials Benchmark program).
is convened by Forum for the Future with funding from
Project with 100 organic farmers in Madhya Pradesh, India.
Laudes Foundation and The Delta Project is delivered by
West Africa Organic and Fairtrade Coalition was launched
The Better Cotton Initiative with funding from the ISEAL GIZ, a service provider in the field of international at the International Cotton and Textile Conference (SICOT)
Innovations Fund. cooperation, initiated the project “Sustainability and Value in Koudougou, Burkina Faso in September 2018.
Added in the Cotton Economy in Uzbekistan” with the
The guidance document Screening of genetically modified
aim to increase the area of cotton grown in accordance
organisms (GMOs) in cotton and textiles (ISO IWA
with internationally recognized sustainability standards in For more information see also the pages on
32_2019), developed in 2019, is the result of a collaboration
Uzbekistan to 30,000 hectares by 2023, amongst other preferred cotton commitments, programs that
of GOTS, OCA and Textile Exchange with technical support
goals. include standards and certification, and the Textile
from Wageningen Food Safety Research. The number
Exchange’s Organic Cotton Market Report 2022.
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 20
Greece 150
Turkey 148
Cameroon 146
Australia 141
Recycled cotton ©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
TomTom, ©
© 2022
2022 Microsoft
Microsoft Corporation,
©
Corporation,
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMap
Chad 51
©
© 2022
2022 TomTom,
TomTom, ©
© 2022
2022 Microsoft
Microsoft Corporation
©
Corporation
© OpenStreetMap
OpenStreetMa
Market overview
Source: Textile Exchange based on cotton programs Source: Textile Exchange based on cotton programs
Source: Textile Exchange based on cotton programs
Global fiber market in 2021 Progress towards the 2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge
Recycled cotton had an estimated market share Please note that the data presented here refer to Global fiber market in 2021 Global fiber market in 2021
of approximately 1% of the total cotton production mechanically recycled cotton. Chemically recycled cotton
Cotton 24 (22%)
in 2021 but is expected to grow significantly in the is covered in the chapter on manmade cellulosics since the
coming years1. While approximately 25 million tonnes of result is a “manmade cellulosic,” not a “cotton.” Cotton 24 (22%)
25
million tonnes
volume in 2021, the ICAC harvest year data from the 2020/21 season are applied.
3 Maia Research, 2022. Global Recycled Cotton Market 2022 (customized report).
4 Circular Fashion Partnership, 15 June 2021—Press release. Link.
Virgin 24.38 (9
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 21
Recycled cotton
A closer look at recycled cotton
Textile Exchange Member Action Takihyo, a Japanese company, launched Takihyo’s Circular
System in 2019. It includes two projects: a partnership with
Circular System's Texloop™ converts pre-consumer The New Denim Project (TNDP) that mechanically recycles
and post-consumer materials into high-value materials pre/post-consumer cotton materials into upcycled denim
through a purely mechanical and hydrothermal process. and cotton in Guatemala and the No Waste project that
An example of a Texloop material is a fabric consisting mechanically recycles pre/post-consumer natural fiber-
of 50% RCOT™ recycled cotton and 50% organic cotton. based materials in Thailand. Read more in the Supplier
Texloop™ “Lightest-Touch” processing preserves original Mapping.
fiber quality for the next generation of recycled materials.
Read more in the Supplier Mapping. The Movement, a start-up from The Netherlands, offers
100% traceable recycled cotton yarns made in Europe.
Geetanjali Woolens is a 40-year-old company that has
been recycling post-consumer used clothing for as many Usha Yarns offers RCS- and GRS-certified yarns made
years. It is Global Recycled Standard (GRS)-certified. Read with 60% pre-consumer recycled cotton and 40% post-
more in the Supplier Mapping. consumer recycled polyester. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.
Giotex is a US-based company offering recycled cotton
yarns and fabrics from pre-consumer feedstock. The WeTurn offers GRS-certified recycled cotton yarn
company is certified to the Global Recycled Standard produced in collaboration with a network of partner
(GRS) and Recycled Claim Standard (RCS). Read more in companies. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
the Supplier Mapping.
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 22
Turkey 148
Cameroon 146
Examples
ed on cotton programs Source: Textile Exchange based on cotton programs
1 Recognized programs include ABR, BASF e3, Better Cotton, Cleaner Cotton (discontinued
in 2020), Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fairtrade, Fairtrade Organic, In-Conversion Cotton
(Transitional in the US), ISCC, myBMP, Organic, Recycled cotton (that is certified to an
independently verifiable standard such as the Global Recycled Standard or the Recycled
Claim Standard), REEL Cotton, Regenerative Cotton, and the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol.
25
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Cotton million tonnes PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 23
Plant Fibers & Materials:
51+19+164321F
Other plant-based fibers include a diversity of fibers
such as jute, coir, flax, hemp, sisal, abaca, kapok, Other plant-based fibers1
ramie, agave fibers, and henequen. It is estimated that
more than 8 million households are involved in the
production of these natural plant-based fibers.1 Jute Coir Flax fiber and tow Hemp Sisal
Abaca Kapok Ramie Agave Other bast fibers
With a global production volume of around 6.7 million
6.7
tonnes, the market share of these other plant-based fibers million
was approximately 6% of the total global fiber production
| Material tonnes
Production Dashboard / Plant 8+ million households
volume in 2021.2
are estimated to be involved in the production of natural
Jute had the largest market share of all other plant-based plant-based fibers such as jute, coir, flax and hemp.1
fibers with around 50%.1 Similar to hemp, flax, and ramie, Cotton Other fibers Rubber
they are bast-fibers. Jute is used to make twine, ropes,
matting, and packaging materials, as well as home textiles | Material Production Dashboard / Plant
Other plant-based fiber production (million tonnes)
such as curtains and carpets.
6.62 6.68
Cotton Other fibers 6.26 Rubber
Coir had the second largest market share of other plant- 5.90
5.80 0.3 Other plant-based fiber production (million tonnes)
based fibers at approximately 20%.3 Coir is the fiber 0.3
Other plant-based fiber production (million tonnes) 5.21
extracted from the husks of coconuts. It is used to produce 0.4 6.62 6.68 1.1
0.4 0.4 6.26 0.7
home textiles such as floor mats, doormats, brushes, and 5.80 1.5 0.3
5.90 1.0
0.8 0.3
mattresses. 0.4
5.21
1.2 1.1
1.3
0.4 0.4 0.7
1.0 1.5 1.1 1.0 1.3
The global flax fiber and tow production in 2021 is 0.9 0.8 1.3
1.2
1.1 1.3
estimated at around 1 million tonnes.3 Processed flax, also 0.9 1.0
Hemp fiber and tow had an estimated global production 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021
2000 2005 2010 Hemp Manila 2015 2020 2021
volume of around 0.25 million tonnes in 2021.3 The bast- Jute Coir Flax (linen) Bast fibers, other Sisal Kapok Ramie Agave
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAOSTAT Jute Coir Flax (linen) Hemp Bast fibers, other Sisal Manila Kapok Ramie Agave
fiber hemp is used in various industries including home Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange
Source: Textile Exchange
Source: based
Textile on FAOSTAT
Exchange based on FAOSTAT
textiles and apparel. Note: 2021 numbers are 2021
Note: estimated
numbersby are
Textile Exchange
estimated by Textile Exchange
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 25
Other plant-based fibers
Hemp
Hemp fiber and tow had an estimated global production residues as feedstock and powered by 100% renewable
volume of around 254,692 tonnes in 20211. The market energy. Oil-seed hemp is one of the feedstocks that can
share of hemp is thus around 0.2% of the total fiber market be utilized for these fibers. The first Agraloop BioFibre™
in 2021. Hemp for fibers has mainly been grown in China, products hit the market in 2020 with French oilseed hemp
but there are also emerging initiatives in other countries, used as feedstock. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
including Europe and the US. The US Farm Bill, signed
into law in December 2018, makes the growing of hemp Ecovus is planning to develop large scale industrial hemp
in the US much easier as cannabis with less than 0.3% processing facilities in strategic locations across the US.
THC is now considered an agricultural crop rather than a
element6 Dynamics aims to have over 1 million acres of
controlled substance. Some advocates in the US, however,
industrial hemp will sequester vast amounts of carbon and
are pushing to increase that amount to 1%. The bast-fiber
feed 60 processing facilities that transform the crop into
hemp is used in various industries, including home textiles
essential value-added hemp-derived materials for major
and apparel.
paper/pulp, plastics, and animal feed manufacturers.
Research is underway into hemp and jute as feedstock
Hemp Black is working on a patented technology
for manmade cellulosics (see the Manmade Cellulosics
platforms to stabilize this carbon sequestered in hemp
Chapter) and also non-fiber materials (see Emerging Non-
plants permanently, and deliver innovative solutions to a
Fiber Materials chapter).
multitude of industries.
Textile Exchange Member Action Hemp Fortex is a leading supplier of hemp textiles. This
AltMat is developing fibers made from residues of food vertically integrated company uses hemp grown in China
and medicinal crops. First commercialized Alt fibers were and manufactures yarn, knitted, and woven fabrics made
created from the stalks of oilseed hemp. Read more in the from hemp.
Supplier Mapping.
Panda Biotech aims to process 130,000 tonnes of Texas-
Bear Fiber is developing a novel alkaline hemp grown industrial hemp per year into high-quality, textile
cottonization process and manufacturing platform to grade fiber and premium cellulose.
produce cotton-like hemp fiber that can be easily spun
Tung Ga offers REECO, RCS/GRS-certified recycled hemp
with and complement cotton. Read more in the Supplier
fiber. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
Mapping.
Winona's Hemp & Heritage Farm is working to find ways to
Circular Systems launched The Agraloop Bio-refinery 1.5
process their hemp for textile applications.
pilot facility in Belgium in January 2020, using food crop
1 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. Note: 2021 figures estimated similar to the 2020 figures
by Textile Exchange as 2021 figures were not yet available at the launch of this report. Please
note that the FAO data for hemp were recently updated and also backward adjusted. Data
gaps for some countries still exist and overall the data quality is limited. Photo: University of Kentucky
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 26
Other plant-based fibers
Flax
The global flax fiber and tow production in 2021 is in partnership with Kingdom, one of the largest linen
estimated at around 1 million tonnes1. The market share yarn manufacturers in the world. The NGO claims that
of flax is thus less than 1% of the global fiber market. adherence to the Code has increased both yields and farm
Processed flax, also called linen, is used for various profits while reducing environmental impacts.
products including home textiles and apparel.
Textile Exchange Member Action
Around 80–85% of the flax used for fibers is grown in
Europe. France is the largest producer of flax fibers. Circular Systems’ Agraloop Bio-refinery is currently
European flax is cultivated in a broad coastal band developing BioFibre™; fibers made entirely from food
stretching from northern France through Belgium and the crop residues. Oil-seed flax is one of the feedstocks that
Netherlands. Other key flax fiber-producing countries are can be utilized for their fibers. Read more in the Supplier
Belarus, Russia, Ukraine, and China.2 Mapping.
1 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. Note: 2021 figures estimated similar to the 2020 figures by Textile Exchange as 2021 figures were not
yet available at the launch of this report.
2 European Confederation of Linen and Hemp (CELC). Email correspondence. Photo: Johan Neven
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 27
Other plant-based fibers
Nettle, kapok, and others
There is an emerging interest in using plant-based Himalayan Wild Fibers extracts textile fiber from a nettle
specialty fibers such as nettle, lotus, kapok, and others. plant that grows wild in the mountain forests of the
The use of agricultural residues is also gaining much Himalayas. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
attraction.
NextEvo offers textile-grade ready-to-spin Pineapple Leaf
Additional plant-based fibers used in the textile industry Fibers (PALF). The pineapple leaves are the by-product
include nettle, kapok, lotus, and others. The use of crop of the pineapple fruit industry and collected from the
residues, such as rice straw, pineapple leaves, banana major agricultural food processing companies and farmer
tree trunks, and sugar cane bark, is another emerging cooperatives in Southeast Asia. Read more in the Supplier
field. Please note that the companies listed below do Mapping.
not chemically dissolve the plants into pulp, nor do they
depolymerize them. If the same plants are dissolved into Spinnova is a Finnish company using a proprietary,
pulp, they are listed in the chapter on Manmade Cellulosic innovative mechanical approach to produce textile fiber
Fibers. If depolymerization is used to process them, they from micro-fibrillated cellulose (MFC). In 2020, Spinnova
are listed as biosynthetics. and the world’s largest wood pulp producer Suzano
launched the construction of their first commercial-scale
Textile Exchange Member Action SPINNOVA® fiber production facility, called Woodspin,
in Finland. The facility, producing SPINNOVA® fiber, is
AltMat is developing fibers made from residues of food and the first step towardsthe ambition of scaling production
medicinal crops. The technology is applicable for various volume to 1 million tonnes of annual capacity by 2031.
kinds of biomass including stalks and leaves of fruit crops Construction is well underway in Jyväskylä, and the fiber is
like banana and pineapple, wild or medicinal crops like expected to be available at the end of 2022. Read more in
nettle, and industrial crops such as cotton. A combination the Supplier Mapping.
of mechanical, chemical, and microbial sciences is used
to transform the low-value materials into soft and strong Other
fibers. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
FLOCUS™ produces yarn blends and filling made with
Circular Systems’ Agraloop Bio-refinery is currently kapok. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
developing BioFibre™, fibers made entirely from food
crop residues. The Agraloop™ can utilize a range of
feedstocks—apart from oil-seed hemp and oil-seed flax—
for example, rice straw as well, as pineapple leaves, banana
tree trunks, and sugar cane bark can be used. Read more
in the Supplier Mapping.
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Other Plant-based Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 28
Plant Fibers & Materials:
Rubber
Cotton
The global natural rubber production was around 15 million FSC and PEFC are founding members—and together
tonnes in 20211. Natural rubber had a market share of with several other organizations—members of the Global Global natural rubber production by country in 2021
Global natural rubber production by country in 2021 Global rubber forest ar
around 49% of the global total 31 million tonnes rubber Platform for Sustainable Natural Rubber (GPSNR).
market in 2021. Synthetic rubber accounted with 15.7
Others 5.5 (37%) Thailand 4.7 (32%)
million tonnes for around 51% of the global rubber market Textile Exchange Member Action
in 20212. The market share of natural rubber increased
From the 15 companies that signed the FSC call to commit
from around 40% of the total rubber market in 2010 to
to sourcing deforestation-free, environmentally-conscious
around 50% in 2020, and slightly decreased again in 15
and socially responsible rubber, 11 companies are Textile
2021.1,2 million tonnes
Exchange members: Allbirds, Avocado, Clarks, H&M, Ikea,
The largest natural rubber producing countries in 2021 Inditex, Patagonia, The North Face, Timberland, Vans,
were Thailand (32%), Indonesia (23%), and Vietnam and the VF Corporation.6 The Textile Exchange members Conventio
Vietnam 1.2 (8%)
(8%)—in percentage compared to the global total rubber Allbirds, Clarks, and Patagonia are already using FSC- Indonesia 3.4 (23%)
FS
production.1 It is estimated that around 85% of the natural certified rubber.4 | Material Production Dashboard / Plant
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source: Textile Excha
rubber is produced by smallholders, involving around 10 Source: Textile
Note : Exchange based
2021 numbers onestimated
are FAO by Textile Exchange Note: 2021 numbers a
In 2021, the VF Corporation including Timberland, Vans Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange
million farmers3.
and The North Face, announced its new partnership with
| Material Production Dashboard / Plant Terra Genesis International in Thailand to build the fashion Cotton Other fibers Rubber
The market share of rubber forest certified to FSC and
PEFC was around 2.6% in 2021.1,4,5 industry’s “first regenerative rubber supply system”.7
Global rubber forest area by program in 2021
Cotton Other fibers Rubber Global natural rubber production by country in 2021 Global rubber forest area by program in 2021 Global natural ru
FSC-certified rubber forest had around 0.25 million
Global natural rubber production (in million tonnes) FSC 0.2M (2%)
hectares4 compared to a total of 12.8 million hectares of
Others 5.5 (37%) Thailand 4.7 (32%)
natural rubber production by country in 2021 Global rubber forest area by program in 2021
rubber forest1 and thus a market share of around 2% in Global natural rubber production (in million tonnes)
hectares a market share of around 0.8% of the total rubber 9.52 15 2.70% 7.09
forest 2.70%
15 in 2021. The first PEFC-certified rubber has been 7.09
million tonnes
million tonnes
available since 20215.
Conventional/unknown
Conventional/unknown Vietnam 1.2 (8%) 12.4M (97%)
Vietnam 1.2 (8%) 12.4M (97%)
1 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. 2021 data not yet available at launch and thus estimated Indonesia 3.4 (23%)
Indonesia 3.4 (23%)
FSC PEFC Conventional/unknown FSC PEFC Conventional/unknown
to be similar to 2020. 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 2000
: Textile Exchange based Source:
on FAO 2021. Synthetic rubber global production
2 Statista, Textile Exchange
2000-2020. based
Link. on FSC,
IRSG, PEFC and FAO
2022—IRS Source:
Source: Textile Textile
Exchange basedExchange
on FAO based on FAO Source: Textile Exchange based on FSC, PEFC and FAO Source: Textile E
2021 numbers are estimated
Groupby Textile Exchange
release latest industry outlook. Link. Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange
Note : 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numb
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source: Textile Exchange based on FSC, PEFC and FAO
3 FSC, 2019. Responsible Sourcing of Natural Rubber. Link.
Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange Note: 2021 numbers are estimated by Textile Exchange
4 FSC, 2022. Email correspondence.
5 PEFC, 2022. Email correspondence.
6 Textile Exchange member list as of 18 June 2022. 7 Timberland, 2021. Press Release. Link.
CONTENTS Plant Fibers & Materials: Rubber PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 30
Animal Fibers & Materials:
533
increased to around 565,103 tonnes1 in 2021, after a RDS-certified
489
525
farms was 8,107 4
in 2021, while the number Preferred down market share in 2021 200
17,876
500
Global down production (thousand tonnes) 100 Preferred down market share in 2021
slight decline due to COVID-19 in 2020. The Responsible of certified processing sites was 525 600
1,339. TheProduction
| Material RDS wasDashboard
560
533 / Animal
565
Responsible Down Standard
Tonnes18K (3%)
100
Conventiona
400 5
Down Standard (RDS) had a market share of 3.2%, while launched in 2014.
0
489 500 0 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Responsible Dow
2017 2018 2019 2020 Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia r
Down Silk
565K Leather
Note: This chart covers only virgin down a
S
The global Downpass-certified down production volume
300
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
tonnes
565K N
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down by country 2021 Downpass certified down by country 20
200 ChinaMap Detail
14,934 (83.5%)
The global down and feather market is highly fragmented, increased from 5,780 tonnes in 2020 to 6,958 tonnes
200
tonnes
Hungary 691 (3.9%)
Othe
with many small and medium producers. Around 85–90% 100 in 2021. This is equivalent to an estimated 1.2% of the Virgin down Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Poland 722 (8%)
17,876
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Poland 722 (8%)
Source: Textile Exchange
Source: Textile Exchange based on Down
6,246
Concerns about the treatment of animals have led to the Number of Responsible Down Standard (RDS) sites
Ukraine
100 742 (4.2%)
Others 556 (6%)
Ukraine in 2021, the future supply may be negatively
Hungary 691 (3.9%)
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Responsible Down
5,806Tonnes
Poland
Standard
Conventional/unknown
Portugal 793 (9%)
722(RDS) 542K (96%)
(8%)number of sites Downpass number of sites
development of animal welfare standards for down. Key
0
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Responsible Down Standard Downpass Conventional/unknown
impacted due
Ukraine to the war. The RDS supply may also be
742 (4.2%) Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 and standard owners
8,107
standards include the Responsible Down Standard (RDS) 17,876 Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.6,958
negatively impacted due to this but its vast majority Tonnes Portugal
6,246 793
Russian (9%)
Federation
975 (11%)
tonnes Ukraine 4,963 (54%)
and Downpass3. These standards ensure that there is: (93%) was produced in Production
China andDashboard
only minor volumes (101
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down by country 2021 Downpass certified down by country 2021
5,806 6,592
400 5,806
Number of Downpass sites Recycled
Recycled 5K (1%)
systems. China is the largest producer of RDS certified Responsible Down Standard (RDS) number of sites Responsible Down Standard (RDS) number of sites Downpass number of sites
Downpass number of sites
300
8,107
8,107 565K
Recycled down market share 2021
9,256
9,256
down and this trend may have an impact on the availability 200 1,290 1,339
tonnes
7,942
1,041
Re
of RDS-certified down in the future. 100
6,246
5,806 6,592 412 7,942 479 577
571K
6,246 2019 2020 2021 Conventional/unknown tonnes
5,806 542K (96%) 2019 2020 2021
0 6,592
Number of farms
2020 Number of processing sites
RDS-certified down production volume increased from 2017 2018
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
2019 2021 Responsible Down Standard
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 and standard owners
Downpass Number of farms
Conventional/unknown
Recycled down
Virgin 565K (99%)
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down by country 2021 Downpass certified down by country 2021 412 479 577
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down Map Detail
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
2019 2020 2019
2021 2019 2020
2020 2021 2021
571K
Others 556 (6%)
Hungary down
Recycled 691 (3.9%)
market share 2021
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Number of farms Number of processing sites Poland 722 (8%) Number of farms Number of processing sites
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Down and Feather Market Report 2022. Customized report. Recycled 5K Number of farms
(1%) Textile Exchange Number of processing sites
Ukraine 742 (4.2%) Source: Textile Exchange
1,290 1,339 Source: based on Downpass tonnes
1,041 Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass
2 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. Note: 2021 figures estimated similar to the 2020 figures Portugal 793 (9%)
Source: Textile Exchange
479 577
by Textile Exchange as 2021 figures were not yet available at the launch of this report. Recycled412
down
17,876 6,958
3 The Global Traceable Down Standard (TDS) was withdrawn in 2020 and is thus no longer 2019 2020
Recycled
Tonnesdown market share 2021 2021 Russian Federation 2019 tonnes Ukraine 4,963 (54%) 2020 2021
Recycled
975 (11%)
covered in this report. Number
4 This includes a total of 7 farmofareas
farms(more
Number
thanof8,342,003
processing sites
small farms). Recycled 5K (1%) Number of farms Number of processing sites
571K
Source: Textile Exchange Source:
tonnes Textile Exchange based on Downpass
China 14,934 (83.5%)
Taiwan 1,247 (13%)
Recycled down market share 2021 Virgin 565K (99%)
China Ukraine Vietnam Hungary Poland Others
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 Re
RecycledPREFERRED
down571K FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT
Source: Textile Exchange
Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass
Global down production (thousand tonnes) Preferred down market share in 2021
600 Responsible Down Standard
560 565
18K (3%)
525 533
Virgin down
500 489
400
Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred down.
300
Directory: Where to find preferred down across the globe 565K
Check out the Textile Exchange database for Responsible Down Standard
tonnes (RDS) certified down suppliers or contact Downpass for a list of Downpass
al certified suppliers.
200
Around 24,834 tonnes1 of preferred down were produced on 17,363 farms1 in 15 countries in
100 2021. Major production regions for preferred down are China and Eastern Europe, including
Conventional/unknown
0
Poland and Ukraine. The war in Ukraine may negatively impact supply in future years. 542K (96%)
Down
Source:
2017 2018
Silk
Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021
2019 2020
Leather 2021 Responsible Down Standard Downpass Conventional/unknown
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia reports 2021 and standard owners
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
Note: This chart covers only virgin down and not recycled down.
Responsible Down Standard (RDS) certified down Eastern Europe
Western Europe
rginResponsible
down Down Standard (RDS) certifiedbydown
country
by country2021
2021 Downpass certified down by country 2021
Map Detail HUNGRARY
IRELAND FRANCE BULGARIA POLAND
Others 556 (6%)
Hungary 691 (3.9%) RDS: 691 tonnes
Preferred down market share in 2021 Downpass: n.a. RDS: 4 tonnes RDS: 21 tonnes RDS: 317 tonnes
Vietnam 709 (4.0%) Poland 722 (8%)
Responsible Down Standard Downpass: n.a.
18K (3%)
Downpass: n.a. Downpass: n.a.
Ukraine 742 (4.2%)
1,290 1,339
1,041 VIETNAM
Taiwan 1,247 (13%) 412 479 577
RDS: 709 tonnes
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
Australasia
Source: Number
Textilebased
Exchange of farms
based Number of processing sites
on Downpass Number of farms Number of processing sites
Source: Textile Exchange on Downpass
AUSTRALIA
Source: Textile Exchange Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass
Downpass: n.a.
Downpass number of sites
1 This assumes that no down and farms were double-certified to RDS and Downpass. Information on double-certification was not available at report launch.
9,256
2 Based on 14.5% loss from birds to down and on 60:40 duck:goose ratio. Recycled down
7,942
3 Downpass production volumes were only available at global level but not at country level. The percentages indicated here are based on the number of farms by country. As the number of farms do not necessarily correlate with the production volumes, the percentages in volumes may differ from the
Recycled down market share
percentages 2021
listed here.
6,592
Recycled 5K (1%)
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Down & Feathers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 33
39
577
1,290 1,339
1,041
412
Number of farms
2
Nu
Production facts and figures Source: Textile Exchange Source: Textile Exchange based on Downpass
Recycled down had an estimated market share of around Key suppliers for third-party certified down
1% of the global down production volume in 2021. While
Recycled
Recycled down
down market share in 2021
Major suppliers for GRS-certified recycled down are:
virgin global down production was around 565 thousand Recycled down market share 2021
tonnes in 2021, the production volume of recycled down is • Allied with its GRS-certified TITANIUM: RENU™. Read Recycled 5K (1%)
roughly estimated at around 5,580 tonnes. The market for more in the Supplier Mapping.
recycled down is growing1.
• Downlite, a US-based company, with its GRS-certified
Re/charged down, launched in 2017.
Key standards
• Navarpluma, a Spanish GRS-certified company, with its
Key standards used for recycled down include the Recycled Recycled NEOKDUN® originating from the recycling of 571K
Claim Standard (RCS) and the Global Recycled Standard bedding/apparel finished products that have reached tonnes
(GRS). Further information on these standards is provided the end of their product life cycle.
in the chapter on Sustainability Standards.
• Rohdex with its recycled down certified to the GRS.
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Down and Feather Market Report 2022 (customized report).
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Down & Feathers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 34
Commitments to preferred down
Examples
The number of apparel, outdoor and home textile policy that ensures there has been no live-plucking and Varner is committed to 100% RDS down. Read more here.
companies that have publicly committed to preferred down they don’t derive from animals that have undergone force-
is increasing every year. feeding during the reproductive phase of their lives. Read All virgin down purchased by VF Corporation in 2017 and
more here. 2018 was certified to the RDS. 2018 was the first year that
Examples of public commitments by Textile VF purchased recycled down, which was all certified to the
Exchange members H&M only accepts down from farms that have been RDS- GRS. Read more here.
certified and recycled down since 2015. Read more here.
All down used by Arc’teryx is certified to the RDS. Read Since 2017, 100% of the down sourced by Volcom is RDS-
more here. 100% of the down in Kathmandu products is certified certified. Read more here.
under the RDS. Read more here.
Aritzia uses only down that’s certified to the RDS. Read Other examples
more here. All down sourced by Marks & Spencer must be certified
by RDS or the IDFL Down Standard (IDS) or RCS/GRS- All down used in Deckers-branded products is certified in
BESTSELLER only uses virgin down sourced according to certified recycled down. Read more here. accordance with the RDS. Read more here.
the RDS. Read more here.
Norrona only uses down that is RDS-certified or recycled. Starting with its fall/winter collection 2016, Hugo Boss
Since fall 2016, all the down and feathers in C&A’s products Read more here. AG exclusively uses down that is produced without live-
are RDS-certified. Read more here. plucking or forced feeding and has documented origins.
All Patagonia’s virgin down is certified to the RDS. Read Read more here.
Columbia has committed to 100% RDS-certified down and more here.
feathers throughout its global line (excluding its Japanese From fall 2017, Tommy Hilfiger confirmed that all their
subsidiary). Read more here. prAna is committed to only sourcing RDS-certified down. down products are certified to the RDS. Read more here.
Read more here.
Eileen Fisher is committed to 100% RDS-certified down Since 2018, all down used by Helly Hansen is RDS-
and feathers. Read more here. PVH Corp requires all down and feathers to adhere to the certified. Read more here.
RDS. Read more here.
Esprit ensures that 100% of their down and feathers are
sourced according to the RDS, or RCS/GRS certified 100% of the down sourced by Ralph Lauren is RDS-
Make a Standards Commitment
recycled down. Read more here. certified or recycled down by 2023. Read more here.
Whether you have already made a commitment to
All down sourced by GANT is compliant to the RDS. Read 100% of down insulation used by REI has been RDS- one or more of Textile Exchange’s Standards, or you
more here. certified since 2015. Read more here. want to share a new one, you may use this form to
register details of your commitment(s).
Gucci’s sustainability principles state that the supplier and The North Face started using RDS-certified down in Fall
its sub-supplier ensure that feathers or downs are RDS- 2015 and since Fall 2016 they have only purchased RDS-
certified or that they adopt, maintain, and verify a sourcing certified down. Read more here.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Down & Feathers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 35
Animal Fibers & Materials:
3+97+F
million tonnes of clean wool fiber, sheep wool is the most models and were able to share volume data in time for this Global wool programs' greasy wool
used animal-based fiber1. This equals a greasy wool report launch. The RWS was developed with the aim of market share in 2021
production of around 1,950,240 tonnes in 2021. providing a holistic global benchmark and definition for
responsible wool production. Textile Exchange measures
While the global wool production has been declining the progress of the most ambitious wool programs that are
over the years, the market share of wool programs is able to share volume data.
increasing. As such, the wool market is trending in the
~2 million
right direction and is setting a lead for other fiber and 2021 data for the production volume of organic, Land to
tonnes
materials to follow. Market, and other programs were not available for the
launch of this report.
The market share of wool produced according to the
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ + ZQRX, and
SustainaWOOL GOLD and GREEN combined was 58,434 Global wool production by program
Programs incl. RWS, ZQ, ZQRX, SustainaWOOL
tonnes (=3%) of the total greasy wool production in 2021. (in '000 tonnes and % of total greasy wool) GREEN + GOLD (~3%)
1.52
the global greasy wool production was certified according + GOLD ≈ 7 (0.38 %)
1.34
Others
The increasing number of wool programs significantly
34 2.7 13.8 0.3 7
vary in terms of requirements; their approach to assurance
1.77% 0.14% 0.71% 0.02% 0.36%
ranging from self-declaration to third-party audits as well
RW
RW
RW
Su
Su
S
S
ai
ai
(Z
(Z
Note: This chart covers virgin clean wool and not recycled wool Note: This chart covers
and others focus in on particular impact areas.
O
O
ZQ
O
O
L
L
RX
G
G
RE
O
)
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 2.23
0.94
37
0.14
South Africa Uruguay Argentina Australia United States New Zealand Source: Textile Exchang
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners Note: This chart covers
1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 Australia China New Zealand Turkey
29.88
Virgin wool
South Africa Others
Map Detail
14.84
Global wool fiber production (million tonnes) Global wool production by country in 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO Source: Textile Exchange
1.52 based on IWTO
1.34 Australia 227,
Note: This chart covers virgin clean wool and not recycled wool Note: This chart covers virgin clean 1.22
wool and not recycled wool 16.50
1.13 14.84
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS)-certified wool and a new module addressing social welfareSource: on farms were Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO
Textile Exchange based on IWTO Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO
2M
6,163
16.50
producing countries, RWS-certified wool has reached SustainaWOOL GREEN production volumes increased
14.84 Preferred wool production
Global by program
wool fiber production (million tonnes) (tonnes) Global wool production by country in 2021
market shares as high as 30% of all wool in South Africa, fro 6,685 tonnes 1.52 in 2020 to 6,992 tonnes in 2021. total tonnes
was produced in India and the Falk Islands for the first time. 74 tonnes in 2020 to 364 tonnes in 2021. SustainaWOOL
1.03 1.03 is 7,356
51,078
produced in Australia. Others 499,506 (48%)
1,033,927
6,759China 139,563 (13%) 364
tonnes
To date, the majority of RWS-certified wool is merino 6,163
2.23
0.94
Conventional/unknown
1.90M (97%) 2019 2020
ZQ wool (New Zealand Merino) reached 0.85 % South (16,546
0.14
wool. With the release of the Communal Farmer Group Uruguay Conventional/unknown
SustainaWool Green SustainaWool
2.23 Africa Argentina Australia United States New Zealand
2020 2021
Source:
New Zealand Textile
97,363 (9%)Exchange based on IWTO and program owners
0.94
tonnes) in 2021. 0.14 All ZQ wool in 2021 was also RWS-certified
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners 1.90M (97%) Turkey 39,442 (4%)
Note: This chart covers virgin greasy wool and not recycled wool
Certification model, access to certification has broadened 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 Australia China New Zealand Turkey South Africa Others
South Africa Uruguay Argentina Australia
to cover farmers with no or limited land tenure, including United States
in 2021. New
ZQ woolZealand is produced
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO
in New Zealand and Australia.
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO andExchange
Source: Textile program based onowners
IWTO Resp
certified wool was produced in communities with such carried out for around 84% of all ZQ wool produced in 2021. 51,078 7,356 16,546
Market share of Responsible Wool Standard by country (percent)
24,195 Detail
Preferred sheep wool in market share in 2021
6,685 6,992 6,759 364
Map Responsible Wool Standard
production systems in India for the first time. 29.88
6,163 0.05M (3%) 6,163
chain with a concentration in key apparel wool processing launch of this report. More information on the market share 16.50 24,195
2M 6,685 6,992
total tonnes
countries such as Italy and China. With the release of RWS of non-mulesed wool can be found in the chapter on The
51,078 7,356 16,546
2.0 the supply chain certification for RWS, Responsible Non-Mulesed Wool Market.
6,759 364 2,698
Mohair Standard (RMS), and Responsible Alpaca Standard 2.23 2019 2019
Conventional/unknown 2020
2020 2021 2021 2021
6,163 0.94
0.14 2020 2021 1.90M (97%) SustainaWool Green SustainaWool Gold ZQ ZQ + ZQRX
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners Note: This chart covers virgin greasy wool and not recycled wool
Animal Fibers (RAF).
Market share of Australian wool in 2021 Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified sites Mule
1,519
ZQ + ZQRX (tonnes)
Preferred wool production by program (tonnes)
The aim of RWS (and RMS, and RAS) is to ensure that Responsible Wool Standard SustainaWool Green & Gold 13,848
ZQ + ZQRX Australia 227,960 (22%)
the potential for high animal welfare for animals raised 51,078
6,992
7,356 16,546
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) ce
24,195 6,685 6,759 364
1,033,927
covering all aspects of the animals' lives to ensure best 13,848
tonnes
24,195 6,685 6,992
practice from the farmers and to deliver high level welfare. 6,163
343
At the close of 2021, more than 10 million sheep were under Others 805,966 (78%)
2,698
RWS certification.1 In addition to animal welfare, the RWS 2,698
2019 2020
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2021 Number of farms Number of processing sites
addresses land management and with the launch of the
2021
1+99
RWS: ~10.7% (incl. ZQ)
Responsible Wool Standard ZQ: ~10.6% (also RWS)
0.05M (3%) United States
RWS: ~1 %
2M
total tonnes
17+83+
17 Uruguay
RWS: ~17 %
30+70+
30 South Africa
RWS: ~30 %
5+95 Australia
100
RWS: ~3 % (incl. ZQ)
15+85+
15 Argentina Falkland Islands SustainaWOOL GREEN: 2%
Conventional/unknown RWS: na SustainaWOOL GOLD: 0.1%
1.90M (97%) RWS: ~15 %
ZQ: ~ 1% (also RWS)
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and program owners
Note: This1 chart
IWTO, 2022.virgin
covers Market Information.
greasy wool andEdition 17. Linkwool
not recycled
2 Only including RWS, ZQ + ZQRX, and SustainaWool Green+Gold as data were unavailable for Land to Market, organic, and other programs
at report launch. Market share given in percentages compared to overall wool production based on ITWO data as mentioned in (1). Only wool
producing countries with production according to these standards highlighted in dark blue.
ZQ + ZQRX
7,356 16,546
6,759 CONTENTS
364 Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 39
Preferred wool production by program (tonnes)
343
13,848
2019
N
Mulesing, i.e., the removal of wool-bearing strips of skin the breech and/or tail of a sheep using mulesing shears . 2
2019 2020 2021 2021
from between the hind legs of sheep (the “breech” area) in This means that wool sold as non-mulesed as per the
2020 2021 SustainaWool Green SustainaWool Gold
Market share of Australian wool in 2021
Market share of Australian wool in 2021
ZQ ZQ + ZQRX
Mulesing status of wool in Australia
an effort to avoid problems of fly strike, remains a key issue AWEX definition could still be produced using freeze Freeze mulesing risk (NM,
Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certified sites Australia 227,960 (22%) 19 (1
related to wool production. mulesing (steining). However, AWEX has published 1,519 1,519
Australia. As Australia has a market share of around 22% 745 756 756
High mulesing risk (ND)
July 2022, includes a new separate labeling category for 24 (24%)
of the global clean wool market1, the risk of sourcing wool "steining", i.e. sheep treated with liquid nitrogen (LN). Others 805,966 (78%)
343
mulesing-free. SustainaWOOL GREEN and GOLD certifications ensure Number of farms Number of processing sites
Recycled wool
Source: Textile Exchange
that wool is from non-mulesed sheep. If organic wool is Global recycled wool market share 2021
In this context, it's important to note that different forms of certified to the Organic Content Standard (OCS), it also has
Market share of Australian wool in 2021 Mulesing status of wool in Australia 2021
Mulesing status of wool in Australia 2021 Recycled 70,001 (6%)
mulesing exist: the removal of skin via cutting with shears to be non-mulesed or from a farm with ceasing-mulesed Freeze mulesing risk (NM, CM)
and by the application of liquid nitrogen (sheep freeze status based on the latest revised version (OCS 3.0),
Australia 227,960 (22%) 19 (19%)
branding or "steining") and the use of rubber rings—more launched in April 2020. Additionally, the Global Organic 1,103,928
commonly used for tail docking or castration to remove Textile Standard (GOTS) 6.0, launched in March 2020,
tonnes
1,033,927 228K
loose skin from the breech area. Four Paws and Human added mulesed wool to their list of prohibited fibers. tonnes tonnes Mulesed (M, AA)
57 (57%)
Society International published a position statement High mulesing risk (ND)
24 (24%) Virgin 1,033,927 (94%)
opposing freeze mulesing (steining) in September 2019 Others 805,966 (78%) Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and maia research
NM = Non Mulesed = “No sheep in this mob has been mulesed”. 1,103,928
300
305
While definitions of mulesing usually include any form Mulesing = “The removal of skin from the breech and/or tail of a sheep tonnes
203
of breech mutilation or modification, including steining, using mulesing shears.” 200 185
the mulesing definition of the Australian Wool Exchange Source: Australian Animal Welfare Standards and Guidelines for Sheep. 100
100
Virgin 1,033,927 (94%)
It is important to note that the definition of “mulesing” of the Australian
(AWEX) used to only include the removal of skin from Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and maia research
National Wool Declaration does not include freeze mulesing (steining). 0
April 2020 February 2021 June 2021 July 2022
1 IWTO, 2022. Market Information. Edition 17. Link. Terms of use : Please inform us for which project you are using
the data via this form (link)
Source: Four Paws
2 AWEX website “Mulesing Status”—accessed on September 15, 2022. Link. Contact : Please contact pfmr@textileexchange.org for any
questions.
3 Four Paws website “Timeline to End Mulesing” and “Brands Against Mulesing”—accessed on July 7th, 2022. Link and Link.
4 AWEX, 2022. “NWD Wool Market”. Link.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 40
Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool
Land, biodiversity, regenerative practices, carbon sequestration
The majority of fiber-producing animals are kept in This fund intends to provide grants to farmers, NGOs and
extensive, free-ranging, pasture-based systems. The key stakeholders who are on the frontlines of developing
management of land is therefore a key consideration. and scaling agricultural change on the ground.
Grazing management for fiber-producing animals can In addition to funding initiatives, there are many groups
degrade soil but using regenerative methods can not already working with farmers to deliver regenerative
only arrest degradation, but also improve soil health. The solutions. As well as working with a network of RWS-
vegetation coverage, diversity of species in the sward, certified sheep wool producers in Argentina, Chile and
timing of grazing, stocking rates and use of manures and Uruguay, Ovis 21 has trained over 700 people in holistic,
other inputs can all be monitored and managed to deliver regenerative land management. The earlier work of
a positive outcome. Regenerative livestock management Ovis 21 led to the development of the Savory Institute’s
not only has the potential to deliver better soil health and Ecological Outcome Verification (EOV), an empirical soil
better quality and quantity of vegetation for grazing (and and landscape assessment methodology. EOV underpins
thus better animal welfare), but it also has the potential to the Land to Market program that offers a range of products
mitigate greenhouse gas emissions from grazing livestock from foodstuffs to leather and fiber. Ovis 21 has over
through carbon sequestration and therefore reduce the 400,000 hectares of land with the EOV seal and is able to
carbon footprint of animal fibers. market regenerative wool.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 41
Virgin animal fibers: Sheep wool
Supplier update
Preferred wool is based on the commitment and support of Other key suppliers of RWS-certified wool include:
leading suppliers.
• Fuhrmann, part of the Schneider Group and based in
Textile Exchange Member Action Argentina, managing 11 farms and combing 9 million kg
of wool per year, including organic and RWS-certified
BKB, a wool broker operating in South Africa and Lesotho, wool.
and the leading producer of RWS-certified wool globally.
• Ovis 21, a network of more than 160 producers and
Chargeurs Wool is an internationally operating company professionals working with over one million sheep in
that supplies RWS merino wool. Argentina, Chile, and Uruguay who seek to change the
paradigm of farming from extractive to regenerative.
Fox and Lillie, one of the largest buyers and exporters of
Australian wool, operating a rapidly expanding RWS farm
group. Tip: How to find suppliers of preferred wool
Lanas Trinidad, jointly owned by Chargeurs and the Otegui Check out the Textile Exchange database for
family and main producer and exporter of combed wool certified suppliers of RWS-certified suppliers.
tops in Uruguay, operating an RWS farm group that is
rapidly growing.
The Schneider Group is adopting the RWS in their
Authentico program and all Authentico top-making
facilities and several Authentico farms are now RWS-
certified.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 42
| Material Production Dashboard / Animal
Virgin animal fibers: Mohair | Material Production Dashboard / Animal
Production facts and figures Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Silk Leather
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Silk Leather
Mohair is the hair of the angora goat (not to be confused
Global greasy mohair fiber production Mohair Global market share of
with the angora rabbit which produces angora wool). Mohair
In 2021, around 4,590 tonnes of raw mohair fiber were
Global greasy mohair fiber production by country in 2021
by country in 2021 Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) in 2021
Global market share of Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) in 2021
produced globally. Approximately half of the global Global greasy mohair fiber production by country in 2021 Global market share of Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) in 2021
mohair (2,330 tonnes) was produced in South Africa. The Others 680 (15%)
Others 680 (15%)
remaining mohair was produced in Lesotho (750 tonnes),
Turkey (470 tonnes), Argentina (360 tonnes), United RMS 1,601 (35%)
Argentina 360 (8%)
States (250 tonnes), New Zealand (20 tonnes), Australia Argentina 360 (8%)
RMS 1,601 (35%)
4,590 4,590
tonnes 4,590 tonnes 4,590
The South African mohair industry has been governed by Turkey 470 (10%) Turkey 470 (10%) tonnes tonnes
its own Sustainable Mohair Production Guidelines since Conventional/unknown
2,989 (65%)
Conventional/unknown
2009. These industry guidelines have been developed 2,989 (65%)
South Africa 2,330 (51%)
and regularly revised by the South African Mohair Growers Lesotho 750 (16%) South Africa 2,330 (51%)
Association. They provided background information on Lesotho 750 (16%)
the principles, criteria, and indicators supported by self- Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and own data
Source: Mohair South Africa Note: This chart includes
Source:
Source: greasy
Textile
Textile mohair
Exchange
Exchange data
based
based on IWTO
on IWTO and and
own own
data data
assessment checklists. Source: Mohair South Africa Note:This
Thischart
chartincludes
includes greasy mohair data
Source: Mohair South Africa Note: greasy mohair data
BKB, a wool and mohair broker operating in South Africa • The House of Fibre is a leading mohair and wool broker
and Lesotho is a leading global supplier of RMS mohair. and supporter and supplier of the RMS.
• South African Mohair Industries Limited (SAMIL) is a
Mohair South Africa is the organization that represents
leading trader of mohair from South Africa and a key
the South African mohair industry. It has been actively
supplier of RMS mohair.
involved in the development of the new Responsible
Mohair Standard (RMS) and is supporting the industry in The Mohair Empowerment Trust is another key
its implementation. organization for supporting the implementation of the
RMS.
Margarete Steiff GmbH, the 120-year-old teddy bear
company, partnered with Katharine Hamnett, London-
based fashion designer, to produce Bio-Fur. The new
material is made from mohair fiber trapped in a cotton
backing fabric. The mohair is sourced from farms in South
Africa.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 44
Turkey 470 (10%) tonnes tonnes
Conventional/unknown
2,989 (65%)
Conventional/unknown
2,989 (65%)
South Africa 2,330 (51%)
Lesotho 750 (16%) South Africa 2,330 (51%)
Production facts and figures Source: Mohair South Africa Note: This chart includes greasy mohair data
38% in Mongolia, and the remaining 5% in other countries . 2 Others 1,219 (5%) Others 1,219 (5%) 2,300 (9%) 2,300 (9%)
83 2,300 345
60
60 50 1,350
180
50 1,350
180
50
0
50
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
0
2019 Source: 2020 2021
Textile Exchange based on AVSF 2019 Source: Textile2020 2021
Exchange based on GCS 2019 2020 based on RN
Source: Textile Exchange 2021
Source: Textile Exchange based on AVSF Source: Textile Exchange based on GCS Source: Textile Exchange based on RN
SFA Cashmere Standard WCS Cashmere Total
1,826 20 4,554
1 IWTO, 2022. Market Information. Edition 17. The Schneider Group, 2019. Annual Cashmere SFA Cashmere Standard WCS Cashmere Total
Market Report 2018. Link.
1,826 20 4,554
2 Textile Exchange compilation based on data provided by the program(s): AVSF, GCS, RN,
SFA, WCS. 2019 figure for SFA estimated as no data available. 12
3 The Green Gold and Animal Health Project of the Swiss Agency for Development and
Cooperation (SDC) and Mongolian National Federation of Pasture User Groups of Herders 12 1,748
(MNFPUG) have partnered in the development and implementation of program.
138
1,748
107 219
0
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other
138Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 45
107 219
Source: Textile Exchange based on SFA 0
Source: Textile Exchange based on WCS Source: Textile Exchange based on program
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
GlobalGlobal cashmere production by country
in 2021in 2021 GlobalGlobal cashmere production by program
in 2021in 2021
Others
Others 680 680 (15%)
(15%)
cashmere production by country cashmere production by program
Cas
Others Others
RMS 1,601
1,219 1,219
(5%) (5%)
(35%) 2,300 (9%)
2,300 (9%)
Argentina 360 (8%)
83 tonnes in 2021. The AVSF project, groups producing 345 tonnes of greasy
Others 1,219 (5%) AVSF Cashmere 2,300 AVSF
Standard
(9%) Cashmere Standard Good Cashmere
Good Cashmere
Standard®
Standard® Respons
AVSF Cashmere Standard Good Cashmere Standard® Responsible No
Global cashmere production by country in 2021 Global cashmere production by program in 2021
operating in Mongolia, involved 11 cashmere fiber from around 3.6 million
Global cashmere production by country in 2021 Global
1,826 (7%)
cashmere
83
production
83
by program in 2021
Cashmere production by program 2,300 (in tonnes)
2,300
Others
Others 1,219
1,219 (5%)(5%) 2,300
2,300 (9%)(9%)
cooperatives including 977 herder families goats in 2021, independently assessed as 345 (1%)
AVSF Cashmere Standard
1,8261,826
(7%)(7%)
Good Cas
60 60
and covered 1.9 million hectares of land with compliant with the standard. 50 50 345
(1%)(1%)
3451,350
83
Mongolia 9,800 (38%)
26,121 26,121 1,350
180
252,006 goats in 2021. tonnes
tonnes
60
The Wildlife Conservation Society China 15,102 (58%)
Mongolia
Mongolia 9,800 (WCS)
9,800
(38%)(38%)
26,121
26,121
26,121
26,121 50
tonnes
tonnes
tonnes
THE GOOD CASHMERE STANDARD® program has gone through a substantial tonnes
China
China 15,102
15,102 (58%)(58%)
50 50
21,567 (83%) 0 0
(GCS) by the Aid by Trade Foundation review and changes. Moving forward, 2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021 2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021 2019 2019 2020 2
(AbTF), developed in 2019, covered 2,800 WCS will be working to deliver the scienceSource: Textile Exchange based onGCS SFA RN AVSF Conventional/unknown
Source:
owners Source:
programSource: Textile Exchange
Textile
Textile Exchange based
Exchange
based on AVSF
on AVSF based on AVSF
21,567
21,567 (83%)
(83%)
Source:Source:
Textile Textile Exchange based on GCS
Source: Textile Exchange based on GCS
Exchange based on GCS Source:
Source: Textile Textile
ExchangeExchange
0 based based
on RN o
Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO, NBS China, and Mongolian Statistical Information Service
tonnes of greasy cashmere fiber produced and monitoring implementation required GCSGCS SFASFA RN RN AVSF AVSF 2019
Conventional/unknown
Conventional/unknown
2020 2021 2019
2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021 2019 2019 2020 2020 2021 2021 2019 2019 2020
cooperatives on 4 million hectares of 50
107 138
0 Source:
Source: Textile Textile
ExchangeExchange based
based on SFAon SFA Source:
Source: Textile Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on WCS on WCS Source:
Source: Textile Textile
ExchangeExchange based
based on progo
land in 13 provinces in Mongolia in 2021.2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 50 50 2019 2020 2021 2019
1,826
SFASFA Cashmere
Cashmere Standard
Standard
WCS WCS
Cashmere
WCS Cashmere
Cashmere
4,554
Total
TotalTotal
1,826
1,826 20 20 4,554
4,554
12
12 12 1,748
1,748
1,748
107 138 219
0
2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021 2019 2020 2021
107 107 138 138 219 219
0 0
Source: Textile Exchange based on SFA Source: Textile Exchange based on WCS Source: Textile Exchange based on program
20192019 20202020 20212021 20192019 20202020 20212021 20192019 20202020 20212021
Source:
Source: Textile
Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on SFA
on SFA Source:
Source: Textile
Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on WCS
on WCS Source:
Source: Textile
Textile Exchange
Exchange based
based on on program
program
Source: Textile Exchange based on WCS Source: Textile Exchange based on program
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 46
Virgin animal fibers: Cashmere
Overview
In response to interest and queries from brands, Textile The Platform has four key objectives in its two-year
Exchange established the Responsible Cashmere Round Collection Action Plan:
Table (RCRT) in March 2019. The aim was to better
understand the issues and opportunities surrounding 1. To formulate and implement a collective action plan that
global cashmere production, as well as to have a collective addresses the root causes limiting the sustainability of
voice in the development of any market-based solutions. cashmere in Mongolia.
Since 2020, the RCRT is part of the new Animal Fibers 2. To influence and harmonize government policy that
Round Table (AFRT) which covers all animal fibers. Many ensures a strong and coherent legal and institutional
important topics for animal welfare and land management framework for sustainable cashmere in Mongolia.
cut across different animal species and fibers, so a single
Round Table gives all stakeholders access to relevant 3. To establish partnerships and coordinated investments
information, as well as the chance to collaborate and and actions that accelerate current efforts.
exchange knowledge. 4. To position Mongolia as a global leader for sustainable
cashmere.
Over two dozen global brands have signed a statement of
support for the establishment of the Mongolia Sustainable Textile Exchange is leading the Market Sector Advisory
Cashmere Platform (MSCP), a national-level umbrella (MSA) group, which brings together several cashmere
mechanism with collaborative leadership and facilitated by buyers that will provide valuable input and guidance into
the United Nations Development Program (UNDP). the work of the MSCP.
Photo: SFA
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 47
Virgin animal fibers: Alpaca
Production facts and figures
Alpaca fiber is the hair that has been gathered from Key standards
alpacas. Alpaca, a South American camelid, is native to
The Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS)—a voluntary
Peru. Historically, alpaca fiber was reserved for royalty
global standard that aims to address the welfare of
due to its fine micron range. Today, the majority of alpaca
alpacas, the land that they graze on and social welfare at
still live in the highlands or Peru at an average of 11,000
the farm level—was launched in April 2021.
to 16,000 feet (3,500 to 5,000 meters). About 4 million
alpacas live in Peru, with the other small percentage The first groups in Peru have been certified to RAS, but
residing in other countries such as Bolivia, Australia, UK, the certified alpaca fiber is already committed to specific
and the US. The vast majority of alpaca are classified supply chains. It will take time to build the volume of
under the Huacayo breed (95%), while the remaining are certified fiber such that it is available on the open market.
classified as Suri (5%). Huacayo fleece is the main variation
used in textile and knitwear production. The current supply Alpaca farming has a high animal welfare potential due
chain is centralized in Peru, where around 90% of the to a husbandry system based on extensive grazing and
processing is condensed through two main suppliers who free-ranging with animals adapted to their environment.
have vertically integrated processing operations. There The RAS was developed to ensure that this high welfare
are a number of smaller producer groups that operate potential is realized and to provide a mechanism to verify
independently. More than 90% of all fiber produced in Peru that alpaca fiber comes from responsible sources. The
comes from smallholder farmers. These farmers have on standard addresses farm-level animal welfare practices as
average 45 animals. This fiber is currently collected and well as land management and social welfare at the farm.
sold by middlemen and then processed by the two large Through production, chain of custody certification ensures
processors1. that the fiber from certified farms is properly identified and
tracked. The RAS will join the Responsible Animal Fiber
The global alpaca production volume was around 6,244 (RAF) framework along with the Responsible Wool and
tonnes in 20212. Mohair Standards. Visit the RAS website here.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 48
Virgin animal fibers: Other
Production facts and figures
Additional animal fibers—apart from sheep, cashmere, Examples of initiatives
mohair and alpaca—includes angora rabbit, camel,
The Mongolian National Chamber of Commerce and
guanaco, llama, vicuna, and yak hair.
Industry announced in a press release the development
Angora wool is the hair of angora rabbits (not to be of a cluster to manufacture products from yak and camel
confused mohair which is the hair of the angora goat). wool as part of the European Union funded project Trade
90% of Angora is produced in China. Europe, Chile and the Related Assistance for Mongolia (EU TRAM).
US also produce smaller quantities. Several major brands
As part of a poverty alleviation project Orient Hongda
and retailers have banned Angora due to animal welfare
have also been working on sustainable yak farming
concerns.
encompassing environmental management, animal
Camel hair comes from camels. Major suppliers of camel welfare, and social factors.
hair are Mongolia, Tibet, Afghanistan, Iran, Russia, China,
New Zealand and Australia. Textile Exchange Member Action
Yak fiber is the hair of yaks which are mainly found in the
Himalayas and some areas of Mongolia and Central Asia.
Yak hair has been used in the Himalayan region for over a
thousand years and more recently has been introduced as
premium fiber in the international fashion industry.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 49
tonnes ton
High mulesing risk (ND)
24 (24%)
Recycled wool
Others 805,966 (78%)
Production facts and figures Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO Source: Textile Exchange based on Awex
Recycled wool has a long tradition. With an estimated Textile Exchange Member Action Recycled wool
production volume of around 70 thousand tonnes1, the Global recycled wool market share 2021
market share of recycled wool is estimated at around 6% Datini Fibres offers
GlobalGRS-certified post-consumer
recycled wool market share 2021 recycled
of the total wool market2. wool fibers under the brand name OON by Datini. Read Recycled 70,001 (6%)
more in the Supplier Mapping.
The Italian district of Prato is a major producer of recycled
wool, where approximately 22,000 tonnes of wool are Geetanjali Woollens is a 40-year-old company that has
recycled every year3. Other major production centers for been recycling post-consumer clothing for as many years.
wool recycling are Panipat, India and China. It's Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified. Geetanjali
Woollens offers—amongst other recycled fibers—recycled 1,103,928
tonnes
Recycled standards sheep wool and recycled cashmere. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping.
The key standards for recycled wool are the Recycled
Claim Standard (RCS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS), WeTurn offers GRS-certified recycled wool yarn produced
in collaboration with a network of partner companies. Read Virgin 1,033,927 (94%)
and Cardato Recycled for recycled wool from Prato in Italy.
more in the Supplier
Source: Mapping.
Textile Exchange based on IWTO and maia research
Please see the page on Sustainability Standards for more Source: Textile Exchange based on IWTO and Maia Research
information.
Terms of use : Please inform us for which project you are using
Tip: How tothefind
data via this form (link)of recycled wool.
suppliers
Contact : Please contact pfmr@textileexchange.org for any
Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list
questions.
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Recycled Wool Market Report 2021. Customized report.
2 IWTO, 2022. Market Information. Edition 16. Link.
3 Cardato, 2015. Website. Link.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 50
Commitments to preferred wool
Examples
An increasing number of brands and retailers are Kathmandu has committed to sourcing 100% RWS wool by Further brands that have made public commitments to
committed to preferred wool, such as RWS, organic, or 2025. Read more here. the RWS are William-Sonoma, Inc., Eddie Bauer, REI,
recycled wool. Tchibo, Varner, Coyuchi, Mountain Equipment Company,
Kmart Australia has the target that 100% of wool used in Kathmandu, and KnowledgeCotton Apparel. Among
Examples of public commitments by Textile their own Kmart-branded (Anko) clothing and bedding companies that have expressed support of the standard
Exchange members will be either: farms certified under the RWS or equivalent and are working toward implementation are LL Bean,
standard; or farms that are fully traceable and verified Indigenous Designs, and prAna.
Allbirds has committed to sourcing 100% regenerative as non-mulesed; or from recycled wool materials by July
wool by 2025. Read more here. 2023. Other examples
Arc’teryx is working to transition its wool supply to the Lindex has committed to 100% either RWS-certified, Deckers Outdoor has set a target to use 100% recycled or
RWS. Read more here. recycled or derived from responsible agricultural practices RWS-certified wool by 2022. Read more here.
by 2025. Read more here.
Armedangels uses organic raw wool which is RWS-
certified. Read more here. Marks & Spencer have committed to use 50% recycled,
RWS-certified or organic wool by 2025. Read more here. Make a Standards Commitment
BESTSELLER has committed to sourcing 100% RWS by
2025. Read more here. Whether you have already made a commitment to
Norrona uses only third-party verified and traceable or
one or more of Textile Exchange’s Standards, or
RWS-certified wool and plans to have 100% of its wool
DK Company has committed to sourcing 100% of its wool you want to share a new one, you may use this form
RWS-certified or reprocessed. Read more here.
in line with industry best practise, for example, RWS. Read to register details of your commitment(s).
more here. Patagonia is committed to 100% RWS as a baseline
requirement. All the wool in their products is RWS-
Eileen Fisher has published the objective that all suppliers
certified, from farm to finished product. Read more here.
will source wool that meets the RWS. Read more here.
Ralph Lauren committed in 2019 that 100% of its wool will
Esprit has made the commitment that 50% of their wool
be RWS-certified or recycled by 2025. Ralph Lauren is also
will be certified according to the RWS by 2022. Read more
committed to 100% Sustainable Fiber Alliance-certified
here.
cashmere in 2025. Read more here.
H&M is committed to using 100% RWS-certified, recycled
Target said that by July 2023, 100% of wool used in its own
or regenerative wool in their products by the end of 2025.
Target-branded clothing and bedding will be either from
Read more here.
farms certified under the RWS or equivalent standard, from
IKEA committed to transforming all wool to 100% RWS by farms fully traceable and verified as non-mulesed, or from
2025. Read more here. recycled wool materials.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Wool & Other Animal Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 51
Animal Fibers & Materials:
Silk
A global overview
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Silk Leather
Another important animal-based fiber is silk. Even Textile Exchange Member Action
though the market share is small, it's estimated Silk production in 2021
that around 300,000 households are involved in theGlobal silk production Takihyo, a Japanese company, has started an Eri Silk
(million tonnes) Silk production in 2021
In 2021, around 79% of all silk was produced in China. The 0.14 their roots, an important source of food, and the leaves
India 30,000 (17%)
second-largest producer was India, with a market share of of the plants are used to feed the silkworms. The fecal
17%. This means that China and India together produced byproduct is used as fertilizer for cultivating the cassava
around 96% of all silk worldwide in 20212. plants, and the pupa can be sold as food, for cosmetics, or 173,162
medicine once the silk is harvested. tonnes
Around 173,162 tonnes of raw silk were produced in 2021.2
Silk production volumes more than doubled from 1990 to Waschbär GmbH supports and owns 50% of Sichuan
2019 but saw a decrease over the last five years.2 OTEX Textiles, producing around 30 tonnes of organic silk
China 136,000 (79%)
filament in China a year.
Silk programs include organic standards such as the Indian 2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 Source: Textile Exchange based on FAOSTAT
National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP), the Source: Textile Exchange based on FAOSTAT Note: 2021 numbers
Source:estimated by Textile
Textile Exchange Exchange
based on FAOSTAT
Organic Content Standard (OCS), and the Global Organic Note: 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Silk PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 53
Animal Fibers & Materials:
Leather
Virgin leather
Leather (cattle) Leather (sheep) Leather (goat) Leather (buffalo) Leather (sheep) Leather (goat) Leat
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source : Textile Exchange based on FAO
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down
Wool Mohair & Silk
Cashmere Leather
Down Silk
A global overview
Global hides production (in million tonnes) Global leather
Global hides production (in million tonnes)production (number of hides in million) Global share
leather of
production (number of hides in million)
Global market the Leather Working Group (LWG)
Overview Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle
Global leather production—measured in weight of fresh 12.5 12.5 12.5
1,328
12.5 1,406 1,406
% of global finished leather in 2021
1,328
Globalproduction
leather production:
11.2 Fresh hides 1,244
by type in 2021
11.5
11.2 Global leather 11.5
hides—was more than 12.5 million tonnes in 20211. The 10.4 Fresh hides by type in 2021 10.4
1,188 1,188
1,244
hides and skins of over 1.4 billion animals were used for | Material Production Dashboard / Animal | Material Production Dashboard / Animal
Leather (buffalo) 0.81 (6%)
leather production in 2021.1 Leather (goat)
1.23 (10%)
Cattle hides were the most-used type of hides with 8.5 Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down
Wool Silk& Cashmere
Mohair Leather
Down
million tonnes in 2021, accounting for around two thirds of 29%
Leather (sheep)
the leather production. China was the largest producer of Global hides production (in million tonnes)
1.92 (15%) 12.48 Global
Global hides production leather tonnes)
(in million production (number of hides in million)
million
12.5 tonnes 12.5
cattle hides accounting for 16% of the global cattle hides 12.5
1,328
1,406
12.5 1,406
11.5 11.5
11.2
production in 2021, followed by the US with 13%, Brazil with 10.4 10.4
11.2
1,188
1,244
2005 2010 2015 2020 2021 2005 2010 2005 2015 2010 2020 2015 2021 2020 2021 2005 2010 2015
12%, and Argentina with 6%. Leather (buffalo) Leather (cattle) Leather (goat) Leather (sheep) Leather (buffalo) Leather Leather
Leather (cattle) (buffalo)(goat)
Leather (cattle)
Leather Leather (goat)
(sheep) Leather (sheep) Leather (buffalo) Leather (cattle) Lea
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO Source
Source: Textile Exchange based : Textile Exchange based on FAO
on FAO Source : Textile Exchange based on FAO
Sheep hides were the second most used type of hides with Note: 2021
Note : 2021 numbers numbers
estimated estimated
by Textile by Textile Exchange
Exchange Leather
Note (cattle) 8.52
: 2021 numbers (68%)
Note
estimated by: Textile
2021 numbers
Exchangeestimated by Textile Exchange Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
a production of around 1.9 million tonnes in 2021. Largest Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
producers were China with 32%, Australia with 8%, and Overview Buffalo Goat
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
Sheep Cattle
Overview
Global market share of the Leather Working Group (LWG)
Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle
Source:Global
Textilemarket
Exchange
share based on the Leather
of the Leather Working Working Group
Group (LWG)
Conventional/unknown
19 (78%)
Bangladesh 0.07 (5%) Pakistan 0.12 (10%)
China 0.19 (24%)
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO India 0.10 (8%)
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 55
| Material Production Dashboard / Animal
claims. LIA was launched in January 2021 and was piloted 11.5
12.5 12.5
The Responsible Leather Round Table over the year; the first Impact Partnership Incentives were 10.4
11.2
1,188
where everyone can participate, share information and Globally, the conversion of forests to cattle pasture Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
Leather (cattle) Leather (sheep) Leather (goat) Leather (buffalo)
Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange
Source : Textile Exchange b
Note : 2021 numbers estima
contribute to a collective action towards tackling the resulted in an estimated 45.1 million hectares of Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO So
Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down numbers estimated by TextileSilk
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO
Leather No
industry’s impacts on climate, environment, people and deforestation between 2001 and 2015. Forest area replaced Note : 2021Note: Exchange
2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange Global market share of the
| Material Production Dashboard / Animal Overview Buffalo Goat Sheep Cattle
% of global finished leather i
animals. Since then, the RLRT has been an active space by cattle accounts for 36% of all agriculture-linked tree Global leather production
Fresh hides by type in 2021 of hides in million)
where stakeholders can connect through webinars and Global the hides production
cover (in million tonnes)
loss worldwide.1 Global leather production (number
G
12.5 12.5 Overview BuffaloLeather (buffalo) 0.81 (6%) Goat Sheep
1,406 1,406 Cattle
Round Table summits to develop a shared understanding Wool Mohair & Cashmere Down Leather (goat)Silk Leather %
Global leatherGlobal leather 1.23 (10%)production (in million hides)
1,328
11.2
11.5 production
of the leather industry, along with the challenges and Fresh hides by type in 2021
1,188
1,244
10.4 Global hides production (in million tonnes) Global leather production (number of hides in million)
opportunities. This has led to the development of the Call to action 12.5 12.5
Leather (sheep)
1,406 1,406
Leather (buffalo) 0.81 (6%) 12.48 1,328
Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA). 11.2
11.5
Leather
1,188
1.92 (15%)
(goat)
1,244 million tonnes
Join the Responsible10.4 Leather Round Table and 1.23 (10%)
The Leather Impact Accelerator explore the use of Impact Incentives to provide
direct financial support to farmers that meet Leather (cattle) 8.52 (68%)
The Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) is a program Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) deforestation/ Leather (sheep)
1.92 Exchange
Source: Textile (15%) based on FAO 12.48
developed by Textile Exchange to address all the major conversion-free (DCF) and/or Animal Welfare Note : 2021 numbers estimated by Textile Exchange million tonnes Source: Textile Exchange b
1 WRI website. Accessed in July 2022. Link. Fresh hides by type in 2021
Leather (sheep)
Leather (cattle) 8.52 (68%) 29% Conventional/unknown 71%
Virgin leather
Standards and certification systems
The adoption of standards and certification systems helps STeP by OEKO-TEX® certification for tanneries
the industry to ensure compliance with sets of criteria and Global market share of the
acknowledge good industry practice. First tanneries were STeP by OEKO-TEX®-certified in Leather Working Group (LWG)
22+78+F
2022.
(% of global finished leather in 2021)1
The different standards and certification systems
significantly vary in terms of their requirements, their Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) for sheep skin and
approach to assurance—ranging from self-declaration to leather
third-party audits—as well as degrees of traceability and The release of RWS 2.0 in March 2020 introduced a new
oversight through the supply chain. Some are active in only optional slaughter module. Where this module is applied
certain regions or markets and others focus in on particular and the chain of custody is maintained, claims about the
impact areas. RWS origin of sheep skin and leather can be made.
29%
For leather, most standards cover the processing. The use
of standards on the animal production level is not yet very
common but increasingly seen as important.
1 LWG, 2022. Email correspondence. Global leather production estimated based on FAO
and further sources. 2020 is referring to the 2020/21 LWG year and 2021 to the 2021/22 LWG
year.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 57
Recycled leather
Overview
Around 800 thousand tonnes of leather waste is produced Other suppliers
annually1. Recycled leather—leather cut post use and then
RenTec.one is using leather waste for the creation of
re-purposed—and bonded recycled leather fiber materials,
non-woven and woven fabrics. Read more in the Supplier
play a role in diverting materials from the waste stream.
Mapping.
Bonded recycled leather fiber materials are mainly made
Sustainable Composites has developed a material made
from pre-consumer production scraps, consisting of
with waste leather converted into RCS-certified leather
recycled leather fibers and binders, or recycled leather
fiber-based sheets or rolls which contain between 60% and
fibers attached to the surface of a synthetic material.
80% recycled material content. Read more in the Supplier
The European Outdoor Group (EOG) published a Recycled Mapping.
Leather report in 2019 that aims to support industry
professionals to better understand recycled leather as
alternative to virgin leather.
1 UNIDO 2000—Wastes generated in the leather products industry. Photo: Sustainable Composite, enspire leather®
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 58
Commitments to preferred leather
Examples
A growing number of companies are committed to Investor groups, environmental groups and consumers Commitments to more responsible leather processing
using preferred leather, defined as leather with more already focus on how the beef industry can help meet
Several companies also started to set targets for more
sustainable properties at farming level (deforestation- the SDGs, particularly SDG 15 “Life on Land” and SDG
responsible leather processing. Several companies have,
free, animal welfare considerations) and processed more 13 “Climate Action,” through eliminating deforestation
for example, set a target to source 100% of their leather
responsibly (better environmental and social management and following improved grazing practices. Leather is
from Leather Working Group (LWG) certified suppliers.
in production facilities, the use of more sustainable linked to the same impacts; cross-sectoral learning and
processing technologies). collaboration with the beef industry is the best option
Examples of public commitments by Textile
to accelerate changes required to meet the SDGs. The
Exchange members
Commitments to biodiversity, animal welfare and Leather Impact Accelerator (LIA) tool, which is being
deforestation-free leather developed by Textile Exchange, supports the industry Adidas, Bestseller, Burberry, Chanel, Everybody &
to drive progress towards the SDGs goals through the Everyone, FashionCube, Gant, H&M, Inditex, Kering,
75 fashion brands have signed a pledge called the G7
leather value chain. Gap, Nike, Nordstrom, Puma, PVH, Selfridges, Stella
FashionPact by March 20221. The commitment is built on
McCartney and others have signed the G7 FashionPact
three pillars: climate, biodiversity, and oceans. All signing Several large corporations have strong animal welfare commitment as of April 2021.
brands should develop strategies connected to each pillar. policies that cover all their animal-derived fibers and
The biodiversity pillar includes animal welfare as one of the materials. To ensure that these policies are indeed H&M, Timberland, Vans, and VF Corporation are
aspects to consider in their strategy. implemented in the supply chains, good knowledge of committed to deforestation-free leather and put a
the actors in the company's supply chain and robust temporary ban on leather from Brazil in 2019. This ban is
Companies are starting to make efforts to eliminate
management systems are required. in response to the fires in the Amazon area which are also
deforestation from their supply chains, and are working
linked to the cattle production.
with global references, such as the Accountability Textile Exchange’s LIA tool was launched in 2021 and
Framework. Commitments related to the UNFCCC, piloted over the year. The program supports the industry ASOS is committed to only sourcing leather from tanneries
Fashion Pact, New York Declaration on Forests, to drive progress towards the SDGs with a focus on that have a LWG audit. Read more here.
Amsterdam Declaration Partnership, and the Consumer deforestation and animal welfare at the farm level of the
Goods Forum Zero Net Deforestation Commitment are Ralph Lauren committed to sourcing from 100% LWG-
leather value chain.
further examples. Eliminating deforestation and improving certified leather suppliers by 2025. Read more here.
grazing practices can also be important measures to
Ted Baker has set the target that 100% of their leather is to
contribute to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).
come from LWG- or equivalent-certified tanneries by 2025.
As the number of commitments to the SDGs is increasing, Read more here.
a collaboration between the leather and beef industry is
VF Corporation has committed to 100% of its footwear
expected to accelerate the progress made.
leather to be from LWG-audited tanneries. Read more
here.
CONTENTS Animal Fibers & Materials: Leather PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 59
Manmade Cellulosic Fibers
Global market share of MMCFs in 2021 Global MMCF production by type in 2021
Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers| Material Production Dashboard / MMCF MMCF 7 (6%)
| Material Production
Lyocell Dashboard
0.3 (4%) / MMCF
Production facts and figures Acetate 0.9 (13%)
MMCF
MMCF
With an annual production volume of around 7.2 million Modal had a market share of around 3% of the total MMCF
tonnes, manmade cellulosics fibers (MMCFs) had a market in 2021 with a production of around 0.2 million
113 Global market share of MMCFs in 2021
7.24
Global market share of MMCFs in 2021
Globa
market share of about 6% of the total fiber production Global market1 share of MMCFs in 2021
tonnes. Global MMCF production by type in 2021
million tonnes
million tonnes
MMCF 7 (6%) MMCF 7 (6%)
volume1. Lyocell 0.3 (4%)
Cupro had a market share of around 0.2% of the total Acetate 0.9 (13%)
With 7.2 million tonnes in 2021, the MMCF production MMCF market. There was only one supplier of cupro Viscose (rayon)
volume slightly exceeded the pre-COVID-19 production producing around 0.02 million tonnes in 2021. 5.8 (80%)
volume of 7.1 million tonnes in 2019, after a decline to 6.5 113 7.24
Other fibers 105 (94%)
Manmade cellulosic fibersmillion aretonnes
currently primarily produced 113Viscose (rayon)
million tonnes
million tonnes in 2020.1 million tonnes
Acetate Lyocell Modal Cupro
Source : Textilefrom wood.
Exchange basedLess
on maiathan 1%and
research is global
currently made from recycled or
data compilation
doubled from around 3 million tonnes in 1990 to Other fibers 105 (94%)
Viscose (rayon) Acetate Lyocell Modal Cupro
approximately 7.2 million tonnes in 2021, and is expected Source : Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Source: Textile ExchangeGlobalon MMCF
based Other
maiafibersproduction
research by feedstock in 2021
MMCF
105 (94%)
to further grow in the coming years.1 | Material Global MMCF Production production Dashboard / MMCF
(million tonnes)
7.2
7.1 Source : Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
Sour
6.7
6.5 6.5 0.9
MMCFs include viscose, acetate, lyocell, modal, and cupro. Global MMCF production (million tonnes) 0.9 Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation
Global MMCF production by feedstock in 2021
0.9 0.9
0.9
MMCF
7.1 7.2
Global market share of MMCFs in 2021 6.7 Global MMCF production by type in 2021
Viscose is the most important MMCF, with a market share 6.5
0.9
0.9 6.5 0.9
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Globa
0.9
MMCF 7 (6%)
0.9
Conventional/unknown
of around 80% of all MMCFs and a production volume of Lyocell 0.3 (4%)
2.86 (40%)
7.1 7.2
Conventional/unknownGlobal MMCF production by type
6.7 in 2021
around 5.8 million tonnes in 2021.1 Global market share of MMCFs in 2021 Global MMCF 6.5production by type in 2021 6.5 0.9
7.24
2.86 (40%) 0.9
Acetate 0.9 (13%)
0.9
MMCF 7 (6%) 0.9
7.24
Lyocell 0.3 (4%)
0.9
Acetate has a market share of around 13% of all MMCFs 5.1 5.1 5.3 5.3
5.6
5.6
5.2 5.2 5.8
5.8
million tonnes million tonnes
with a production of approximately 0.9 million tonnes in Acetate 0.9 (13%) FSC/PEFC 4.34 (60%) FSC/PEF
2017 2018 2020 2021 Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and other million tonnes
and acetate in 2021. It had a market share of around 4% of Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
million tonnes additional sources
Viscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro Acetate
all MMCFs in 2021 with a production volume of around 0.3 Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and other additional sources
Viscose (rayon)
million tonnes.1 Forest programs
Source: (million
Textile ha) andbased
Exchange % of total forestResearch
on Maia area
2017 2018 2019 2020
Viscose (80%) 2021
5.8(rayon)
Viscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro 5.8
Acetate
(80%)
4,069 4,064 4,064 4,064
Other fibers 105 (94%) Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Sour
Other fibers 105 (94%)
Viscose (rayon)
Viscose (rayon) Acetate LyocellModal
Acetate Lyocell Modal
CuproCupro
Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area
Source : Textile Exchange based on :maia
Source Textileresearch
Exchangeand global
based data
on maia compilation
research and global data compilation Source:Source:
Textile Textile
Exchange based
Exchange on on
based maia
maiaresearch
research
4,069 4,064 4,064 4,064 Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and other additional sources
Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Global MMCF production by feedstock in 2021
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Global MMCF production by feedstock in 2021
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Manmade Cellulosic Fiber Market Report 2022 (customized 11%7.1 11% 7.2 11%
report).
6.5 10% 7.16.7 0.9 6.5 7.2 0.9
2 More information on the applications by fiber is available in the Report Scope: Beyond 6.7 2018 0.9 20196.5 2020 2021
6.5 0.9
0.9
0.9 0.9
Apparel section of this report. Certified (total) FSC and/or PEFC Others % of Forest Area
0.9 0.9
0.9
Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO, FSC, and PEFC Conventional/unknown
2.86 (40%)
Conventional/unknown
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers 11% 11% 11% 2.86 (40%)
PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS
11% MARKET
11% REPORT
7.24 11% 61
Global market share of MMCF production capacity with CanopyStyle Shirts in 2021
5.6 5.8 million tonnes
7.24
5.1 5.3 5.2
10% Not yet assessed 4% 10% FSC/PEFC 4.34 (60%)
Newly engaged and acting 10%
2018 2019 2020 2021 2018 2019 2020 2021
5.6 5.8 Dark Green Shirt
5.6 5.8
5.1 5.3 5.2
Global MMCF production (million tonnes) Global MMCF production by fe
7.1 7.2
6.7
6.5 0.9 6.5 0.9
0.9 0.9
0.9
Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 Conventional/unknown
2.86 (40%
Viscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro Acetate
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
Recyc
The market share of FSC- and/or PEFC-certified MMCFs of the certified forest was certified according to PEFC 2017
Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area
2018
Viscose (rayon) Modal
2019
Lyocell Cupro
2020
Acetate
2021
increased from around 55-60% in 2020 to around 60-65% and its equivalents in 2021, with almost half of this being 4,069 Forest programs (ha and % of total
4,064 forest area)
4,064
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research 4,064
Source: Textile Exchange based
FSC, founded in 1993, is an international member-led forests, 11 (and not 14) % of all forests were certified to FSC
4,069 4,064 4,064 4,064
in PEFC-certified products. 6
million tonnes Source: Textile Exchange based on FAO, FSC, PEFC, and SFI Not yet assessed 4%
million tonnes
certification systems and the largest forest certification Newly engaged and acting 10%
PEFC-certified fabrics in 2018, the number of certified Exchange's Organic Content Standard Viscose (OCS). The OCS is
(rayon) Red Shirt 13% Not yet assessed 4%
5.8 (80%)
Forest programs in 2021 (haNewly
and % ofand
engaged total
actingforest
10% area)
textile companies is increasing. Read more in the Supplier an international, voluntary standard that sets requirements
Other fibers 105 (94%)
Mapping. for third-party certification of certified
Viscose (rayon) Acetate organic
Lyocell Modal Cupro input and Orange Red Shirt 4%
Source : Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
chain of custody.
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
PEFC ≈ 328 (8%) Medium Green Shirt 17%
Overall, the share of the global forest area certified to Red Shirt 13%
SFI ≈ 142 (3%) FSC ≈ 230 (6%)
Light Green Orange Red Shirt 19%
FSC and/or PEFC has increased from around 1% of all Light Green Shirt 6%
7.2
share of 11.38%6.7in 2021, this is a slight increase compared
7.1 Orange Red Shirt 4%
6.5 0.9 6.5 0.9
to the 0.9
market share 0.9 of 11.18% in 2020. 0.9 In total, around 8%
Conventional/unknown
2.86 (40%) 118 115 27 Light 68 135 Red Shirt 19%
Green Orange
3% 3% 1% 2% 3%
1 Textile Exchange estimates based on publicly available information and its own supplier 7.24 Light Green
SF
5.8
FS
5.6
PE
PE
SF
5.1 5.3 5.2 Source: Textile Exchange based on Canopy
I(
C
FC
FC
I(
FSC/PEFC 4.34 (60%)
PE
(w
2 Data received from FSC, PEFC, and SFI per email.
PE
(w
(w
FC
/o
FC
/o
/o
PE
3 FAOSTAT, 2022. Database. Link. 2021 figures not yet available at report launch and thus
en
en
FS
SF
FC
do
do
C
I)
2020 figures used as proxy.
rs
Recycled (total)
&
&
&
rs
ed
SF
SF
FS
ed
0.03 (0%)
)w
4 Based on FSC and PEFC press releases March 2022, and email correspondence with FSC,
)&
I)
I)
C
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
/o
FS
PEFC and SFI.
FS
Viscose (rayon) Modal Lyocell Cupro Acetate
C
C
5 Textile
Source: FSC, Exchange
2022. Nobased
FSC material from Russia and Belarus until the invasion ends. Link.
on maia research Source:Source: Textile Exchange
Textile Exchange based onbased on Maia and
maia research Research and supplier
other additional information screening
sources
6 PEFC, 2021. Timber from Russia and Belarus considered "conflict timber". Link.
7 Maia Research, 2021. Global Recycled Manmade Cellulosic Fibers Market Report 2021.
Customized report.
Forest programs (million ha) and % of total forest area
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 62
11% 11% 11%
Standards for feedstock Certified (total) FSC and/or PEFC Others % of Forest Area
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 63
Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers
Standards for pulp and fiber
Pulp and fiber Further standards that can be used for the pulp and/
or fiber level include Cradle to Cradle Material Health
Bluesign has developed specific criteria for fiber
Certificate Standard, STeP by OEKO-TEX®, and the EU Eco
production that were added as Annex “Fiber
Label. Another option is the production in compliance with
Manufacturing” to its “bluesign® CRITERIA for production
the EU BREFs (BAT Reference Documents).
sites” in March 2020. The criteria for fiber manufacturing
are applicable for the manufacturing of synthetic fibers, For standards related to “recycled” MMCFs made see the
for example, polyester and polyamide, as well as MMCF. chapter on Recycled Manmade Cellulosics.
For MMCFs, this includes criteria for feedstock, pulp, and
fiber production. One MMCF supplier has already become
a bluesign® SYSTEM PARTNER and produces bluesign® Textile Exchange Member Action
APPROVED fibers.
By July 2022, Asahi Kasei Bemberg, Asia Pacific Rayon,
ZDHC has expanded the scope of its work to cover fiber Birla Cellulose, Century Rayon (Aditya Birla Grasim),
production to account for the environmental impact of Eastman, Lenzing, Sateri, and TreeToTextile were ZDHC
fibers. In April 2020, the ZDHC Man-Made Cellulosic Contributors.
Fibres (MMCF) Guidelines 1.0 were launched, together with
the ZDHC MMCF Responsible Fibre Production Guidelines
1.0, the ZDHC MMCF Interim Wastewater Guideline 1.0, and
Tip: How to find MMCF suppliers meeting pulp
the ZDHC MMCF Interim Air Emissions Guidelines 1.0. The
and fiber level standards.
initial focus of the guidelines is viscose and modal. The
guidelines give suppliers producing MMCF unified criteria Check out the Bluesign® System Partner List, the
for measuring output indicators like wastewater, sludge, ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Database, or explore the
air emissions, and other process-related parameters. They websites of the other standards mentioned above.
also offer an aligned approach for the recovery of Sulphur
compounds, part of the inputs, as well as by-products
generated during the production process. Fiber producers
are expected to engage on a continuous improvement
roadmap defined by three levels of foundational,
progressive and aspirational. Dissolving pulp production
process will be considered at a later stage.
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 64
Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers
Supplier updates
Textile Exchange Member Action The joint demo plant of Itochu and Metsä Group with a
nominal capacity of about 500 tonnes per annum and with
Birla Cellulose worked on several sustainability initiatives the aim to demonstrate a new technology for converting
in the past years. In 2021, Birla Cellulose received a paper-grade pulp into textile fibers, is in operation since
“dark green shirt” again in the Canopy assessment. Birla late 2020. The textile fiber product name, Kuura, was
Cellulose claims that it maps 100% of its forest sources on launched in early 2021.
the traceability platform Greentrack™. Read more about
Birla's actions from building a circular business model to Sateri, part of the Royal Golden Eagle (RGE) Group,
reducing water consumption in this interview. together with Asia Pacific Rayon (APR), is the world’s
largest producer of viscose. In 2020, it began producing
Eastman launched Naia™, a di-acetate fiber made from lyocell as well. Its parent company, the Royal Golden Eagle
wood pulp from sustainably managed plantations and (RGE) has announced plans to invest $200 million USD
produced in a near closed-loop chemical process in 2017, over the next ten years into cellulosic textile fiber research
available as filament and since 2020 also as staple fiber. In and development including alternative feedstock.
2020, Eastman introduced Naia™ Renew, which combines
60% renewable wood pulp with 40% acetic acid sourced Sappi is a leading global provider of wood fiber products
from a variety of recycled waste material1. and solutions such as dissolving wood pulp. In 2022, the
Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) has approved
GP Cellulose GmbH operates four wood-pulp mills in the Sappi's target to reduce carbon emissions 41.5% per ton
US. Over a decade ago, GP began mapping endangered of product by 2030, as well as the commitment that 44%
forests within its key wood fiber supply regions. Once they of the suppliers by spend have science-based targets by
mapped an endangered forest, they committed not to buy 2026.
wood fiber from these areas.
TreeToTextile, owned by H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group,
Lenzing received a "dark green" shirt in the CanopyStyle Stora Enso, and LSCS Invest, is a company developing
2021 Hot Button Report. In 2022, Lenzing announced a new innovative chemical process—using forest raw
that it will switch to green electricity at its Chinese site as material and regenerating the cellulose into a textile fiber
well. Read more on Lenzing's actions from installing solar by spinning the dissolving pulp. Stora Enso will host
panels to circularly in this interview. TreeToTextiles's demonstration plant, a EUR 35 million
investment.
1 Naia™ Renew recycled content is achieved by an allocation of recycled waste material using
an ISCC-certified mass balance process. Photo: PEFC
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 65
Virgin manmade cellulosic fibers
Supporting the transition
Several initiatives are supporting the transition to preferred roadmap towards responsible viscose and modal fiber Forum for the Future, in collaboration with Textile
MMCFs. Collaboration and information are essential for manufacturing in 2018. In 2020, Changing Markets Exchange, launched the “MMCF 2030 Vision - A Vision for
successful uptake of preferred MMCFs. published its report "Dirty Fashion: Crunch time. Where building resilience and accelerating regeneration” report
does the industry stand on stamping out dirty viscose?". in 2020.
Call to action
The Collaboration for Sustainable Development of The German Partnership for Sustainable Textiles initiated
Join the Textile Exchange Manmade Cellulosics Round Viscose (CV), established in 2018, is a public governance a working group for manmade fibers and released the
Table. The aim of the MMCF Round Table is to bring the organization set up by viscose enterprises, upstream Joint Letter Viscose in April 2019, a call for commitment to
industry together, share knowledge and learning, and and downstream companies in the industry chain and sustainable MMCF production.
drive action. As of 2022, more than 50% of the global associations in China. CV is supported by the Social
MMCF supply has published the "Manmade Cellulosic Responsibility Office of the China Textile Industry GRETE, a consortium of the seven partners, coordinated
Transparency Questionnaire", developed by the MMCF Federation. As of September 2022, CV has a total of by VTT and funded under the European Union's Horizon
Round Table driven by industry demand. The suppliers 12 members (two industry associations and 10 MMCF 2020 from 2019 to 2023, aims to improve the existing
include APR, Birla Cellulose, Sateri, Tangshan Sayou, producers) and 163 downstream enterprises as members MMCF value chain by developing new technologies using
Yibin Grace. Other suppliers like Lenzing and Eastman of the industrial chain. In 2021, CV published its standard paper grade pulps, implementing novel green
have completed it and can provide the information upon Sustainability Report 2020 which reviews its Three-year technologies based on ionic liquid (IL) chemicals and
request. Action Plan on Green Development (2018-2020) as well as recovery process for cellulose dissolution with novel post-
progress in governance and continuous improvement in modification process.
Further initiatives
2020. It also includes the new CV Roadmap 2025 and the
The Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) released the
Canopy works with the forest industry’s biggest customers 2030/2050 sustainability vision.
Forest, Land and Agriculture (FLAG) Science Based Target
and their suppliers to develop business solutions that Setting Guidance, the world’s first standard method for
Earthworm (formerly The Forest Trust) has worked in value
address deforestation and protect forests. Read more companies in land-intensive sectors including the wood
chains of key raw materials linked to forests such as wood
about their CanopyStyle Audits and Hot Button Report, fiber industry to set science-based targets that include
and pulp since 1999. Over the years, Earthworm helped
and the CanopyStyle Commitments and Next Generation land-based emission reductions and removals. Read more
more than 60 companies to set up No Deforestation,
Vision. here.
Peat, and Exploitation (NDPE) policies and put them into
Challenge the Fabric (CTF), including the CTF Award, practice. With businesses and civil society, Earthworm
WWF, in partnership with H&M and FORESTS.AI have
is initiated by EKMAN & Co. and the Swedish Fashion innovated the High Carbon Stock (HCS) Approach—
developed the WoodAI App. The app can quickly identify
Council, in partnership with Altri, Arauco, Sanyou Group, paving the way for a concrete definition of deforestation. In
wood species with the help of a smartphone and macro
and Södra, with the aim to speed up the market for more 2020, Earthworm launched the Forest Conservation Fund.
lense. This can help companies to verify that the wood
sustainable MMCFs. In 2022, a CTF symposium was Companies can support the protection of an equivalent
they source is indeed from a certain species approved by
hosted in Paris. area to their tropical forest footprint by channeling funding
the company. The WoodAI App is currently pilot-tested by
of $40 per hectare—less than 2% of their cost of goods—to
H&M.
Changing Markets Foundation in collaboration with conservationists on the ground.
Earthworm (formerly The Forest Trust) launched a
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 66
“Recycled” manmade cellulosic fibers
Supplier updates
The market share of “recycled” MMCFs is estimated at Launched in 2020, the New Cotton Project is a three-year Circ (earlier called Tyton Biosciences)—see chapter on
around 0.5% of all MMCFs in 20211. But a lot of research multi-stakeholder project. Textile waste will be collected “Fiber Blend Recycling”.
and development is ongoing, so it is expected to increase and sorted and then chemically recycled into a new MMCF
significantly in the next years. that looks and feels like cotton—a “new cotton”—using Circular Systems has developed the Texloop
Infinited Fiber Company’s textile fiber regeneration technology which can mechanically recycle TENCEL™
Canopy estimates that recycling just 25% (5 million technology. lyocell. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
tonnes) of global pre- and post-consumer cotton textile
waste, plus 25% (1.6 million tonnes) of MMCF textile waste, MMCFs made from recycled textiles Evrnu is a US-based startup working on the
could replace all wood fiber currently used to manufacture commercialization of NuCycl™, an MMCF made from
dissolving pulp2. Aalto University’s Ioncell is a technology-in- discarded clothing and textile waste. Read more in the
development that turns used textiles, pulp, or even old Supplier Mapping.
Many of the “recycled” MMCFs are still in development. newspapers into new textile fibers using a novel solvent
The first commercially available MMCFs partially or wholly called ionic liquid. The commercial production start is GP Cellulose GmbH’s Cotton Linter Fiber Pulp is an
made from recycled materials use mainly cotton linter or planned for 2025. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. SCS Recycled Content Standard certified pulp made from
pre-consumer cotton textile residues as feedstock. cotton linters used for acetate. The production is powered
Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) is pilot testing the production by 80% renewable energy. Read more in the Supplier
For MMCFs made from recycled materials, the Recycled of viscose made from recycled pre-and post-consumer Mapping.
Claim Standard (RCS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS) textiles. A production facility with a capacity of 12,000
and SCS Recycled Content Certification can be used. The tonnes is planned to convert cotton and cotton-rich textile The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel
first recycled MMCF suppliers have been RCS-certified. waste and viscose textile into feedstock for viscose. Read (HKRITA)—see chapter on Fiber Blend Recycling.
more in the Supplier Mapping.
Launched in September 2020, The Fashion for Good Infinited Fiber Company’s Infinna™ is a cellulose
initiated Full Circle Textiles Project: Scaling Innovations Asahi Kasei’s Bemberg™ is a cupro fiber made in Japan carbamate fiber currently created out of 100% post-
in Cellulosic Recycling—a first-of-its-kind consortium from 100% cotton linter, a pre-consumer residue of the consumer textile waste. A 30,000 tonnes flagship factory
project. Over an 18-month period, project partners cotton processing, and certified under the Recycled Claim in Finland is expected to be operation in 2024. Read more
will collaborate with innovators, Evrnu, Infinited Fiber Standard (RCS). The annual production capacity is around in the chapter on Fiber Blend Recycling and the Supplier
Company, Phoenxt, Renewcell and Circ (formerly Tyton 17 thousand tonnes. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. Mapping.
BioSciences), to validate the potential of their technologies
in this still nascent market. The recycled content produced Birla’s Liva Reviva is a new viscose fiber made with up
by four of these innovators will be converted at Birla to 20% pre-consumer cottonplus a small amount of post-
Cellulose’s state of the art pilot plants to produce high consumer waste (up to 5%), certified under the Recycled
quality cellulosic fibers. Claim Standard (RCS). The pre-consumer waste will be
increased up to 30% shortly. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.
1 Textile Exchange based on Maia Research, 2022. Global Recycled Manmade Cellulosic BlockTexx—see chapter on Fiber Blend Recycling.
Fiber Market Report 2022 + Global Manmade Cellulosic Fiber Market Report 2022.
2 Canopy, 2020. SURVIVAL. A Plan for Saving Forests and Climate A Pulp Thriller. Next
Generation Report. Photo: Södra
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 67
“Recycled” manmade cellulosic fibers
Supplier updates
Jilin Chemical Fibre’s Ecojilin is a commercially available tonnes of Renewcell pulp per year. In 2022, Renewcell Södra’s OneMore® is RCS-certified dissolving pulp,
RCS-certified viscose filament yarn made from pre- started running its new 100% textile-to-textile recycling currently produced with 20% post-consumer cotton. The
consumer cotton linters feedstock. Read more in the plant with a production capacity of 60,000 tonnes project started in autumn 2019 with 20 tonnes of post-
Supplier Mapping. per year in Sundsvall, Sweden. Due to high demand, consumer cotton added to their wood-derived pulp in their
Renewcell announced its plan to increase its capacity mill in Mörrum, Sweden resulting in 3% recycled content.
Jilin Chemical Fibre’s White Mountain is a commercially to 120,000 tonnes per year by 2023/24 and to 360,000 In 2020, Södra increased this share to 20% and became
available viscose filament yarn made from uncertified tonnes by 2030. Fiber producing partners of Renewcell RCS-certified. Södra`s and Lenzing's joint target is to
pre-consumer cotton linters feedstock. Read more in the includeTanghan Sanyou, Sateri, Yibin Hiest Fiber, and Birla recycle 25,000 tonnes in 2025 to create products with 50%
Supplier Mapping. Cellulose. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. recycled content. To achieve this, Södra needs to make
Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell with REFIBRA™ continuous improvements and investments. Södra is also
RISE - The Regenerator—see the chapter on Fiber Blend
technology is the first lyocell fiber made with reclaimed exploring a decoloring solution, possibilities to extract
Recycling.
materials offered on a commercial scale. Refibra™ was products from the polyester from poly-cotton blends, and
launched in spring 2017. While it was initially made with The Royal Golden Eagle (RGE) Group invested in the use of used MMCF textiles. See chapter on Fiber Blend
20% pre-consumer cotton residues, the percentage Infinited Fiber in 2019 and conducts in-house research on Recycling.
increased to 30% in 2019. A special lot production alternative cellulosic feedstock, such as recycled cotton
Tangshan Sanyou announced in June 2019 that it
including 5% post-consumer waste and 25% pre-consumer and agricultural waste. Read more in the Supplier Mapping
succeeded in producing viscose staple fiber ReVisco™
waste started and will become the standard product in the in the submission of Asia Pacific Rayon, part of RGE.
made from 50% post-consumer recycled cotton textiles
near future. Lenzing’s and Södra’s joint goal is to process
Sateri’s Finex® is a RCS-certified viscose staple fiber supplied by Renewcell.
25 thousand tonnes of textile waste per year by 2025. Read
more in the Supplier Mapping. made with post-consumer cotton textiles. It is the result
Worn Again Technologies’—see chapter on Fiber
of a collaboration with the pulp suppliers Södra and
Blend Recycling.
Phoenxt—see the chapter on Fiber Blend Recycling. Renewcell. The production of first commercial lines with
below 5% recycled content were announced in March Xinxiang Chemical Fibre offers RCS-certified MMCFs made
Mistra Future Fashion's Blend Re:Wind—see chapter on 2020 and the recycled content share is now up to 20% by with cotton linter.
Fiber Blend Recycling. mid-2021. Sateri aims to offer viscose products with 50%
recycled content by 2023 and 100% by 2030. Sateri's Yibin Hiest Fiber announced the successful industrial-
Newstartex offers a commercially available RCS-certified
intention is to have 20% of its overall feedstock contain scale production of viscose filament yarn made with 100%
MMC filament made with cotton linter.
alternative or recycled materials by 2025. Read more in the Circulose® pulp in 2022.
Renewcell’s Circulose®, launched in 2019, is a branded Supplier Mapping.
dissolving pulp made from 100% cellulosic textile waste
SaxCell has developed a pulp made from post-consumer
such as cotton and viscose, reusing the process chemicals.
cotton textiles. SaxCell aims to create the first industrial
Fiber producing partner companies can use it to make
scale production unit in 2022. Additionally, the first apparel
viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, or other types of MMCFs.
test collection produced in collaboration with partners is
The Kristinehamn demo plant in Sweden produces 7,000
scheduled for 2022. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 68
“Recycled” manmade cellulosic fibers
Supplier updates
MMCFs made from non-textile residues MMCFs with non-cellulosic recycled building block
Infinited Fiber Company’s Infinna™ is a cellulose In 2020, Eastman introduced Naia™ Renew, a
carbamate fiber currently created out of 100% post- cellulosic acetate fiber that combines 60% renewable
consumer textile waste, and it can also be created from wood pulp with 40% acetic acid sourced from a variety of
other cellulose-based waste streams like used cardboard, recycled waste material1. The recycled waste materials
paper or agricultural residues like wheat or rice straw. Read such as recycled polyester are broken down to molecular
more in the Supplier Mapping. building blocks and these building blocks are used as a
feedstock for acetic acid through Eastman's new Carbon
Inspidere’s Mestic® is a method in development to Renewal Technology. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
retrieve and convert cellulose from dairy cow manure into
regenerated cellulose fibers. The startup is based in the
Netherlands.
1 Naia™ Renew recycled content is achieved by an allocation of recycled waste material using
an ISCC-certified mass balance process. Photo: Orange Fiber
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 69
Commitments to preferred manmade cellulosic fibers
Examples
The number of brands and retailers committed to preferred CanopyStyle commitments to eliminate the sourcing of
manmade cellulosics is increasing. To drive industry ancient and endangered forests Make a Standards Commitment
change, several companies are making joint commitments
The number of brands and retailers committed to eliminate Whether you have already made a commitment to
through industry initiatives.
ancient and endangered forests from their fabrics one or more of Textile Exchange’s Standards, or you
increased from 60 in fall 2015 to 455 in 20213. want to share a new one, you may use this form to
CanopyStyle Next Generation Vision
register details of your commitment(s).
In 2020, Canopy published its CanopyStyle Next Examples of commitments by Textile Exchange
Generation Vision that at least 50% of all MMCFs will members
be made from Next Generation feedstocks in 2030. At
The CanopyStyle Next Generation Vision is, for example,
its launch, this vision was backed by 26 of CanopyStyle
backed by the members Aritzia, Bestseller, C&A,
brands and suppliers1.
Esprit, GAP, Gina Tricot, G-Star Raw, H&M, Inditex,
The objective of the vision is to displace ancient and Kathmandu, Lindex, Mara Hoffmann, M&S, New Look,
endangered forest pulp from supply chains, i.e., 3.3 million Next, Patagonia, Reformation, Ted Baker, Tesco,
tonnes estimated to be from ancient and endangered Woolworth and Stella McCartney.
forest by:
Commitments to the Changing Markets Roadmap have
• Regenerating 50,000 tonnes of wood pulp with virgin been made, for example, by the members ASOS, C&A,
wood from new well-managed plantations and forests. Esprit, H&M, Inditex, Levi’s, M&S, New Look, Next,
Reformation, and Tesco.
• Extending the life of, at minimum, 10% (650,000+
tonnes) of clothing containing viscose.
• Replacing 2.6 million tonnes of wood pulp with pulp
derived from alternative fibers.
1 CanopyStyle press release (February 20, 2020). Announcing the CanopyStyle Next
Generation Vision for Viscose and the CanopyStyle Next Generation Vision for Viscose.
2 Canopy, 2020. 2020 Hot Button Report. Link. 3 Canopy, 2021. Highlights: CanopyStyle by the Numbers. Link.
CONTENTS Manmade Cellulosic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 70
Synthetic Fibers:
Synthetic Fibers
Polyester
polyester to rPET.
Global recycled polyester (rPET) fiber12.37%
2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
production volume increased from
Standards
Recycled Polyester Other Polyester Recycled Polyester %
8.4 million tonnes in 2020 to around 9 | Material Production Dashboard / Synthetic
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research and global data compilation
million tonnes in 20212. This equals a The main standards used for recycled
Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research and global data compilation
slight increase in the market share of polyester include the Global Recycled
recycled PET fiber from around 14.7% Standard (GRS), the Recycled Polyester Polyamide
of the global PET production in 2020 to Claim Standard (RCS) and the SCS
around 14.8% in 20213. Recycled Content Standard. For Global polyester production (million tonnes) Global fiber produ
Global polyester production (million tonnes)
further information, see the chapter on
Recycled polyester is mainly made from Sustainability Standards. 60.53
57.69 57.08
PET plastic bottles with an estimated 53.02
55.05
O
51.63
share of 99% of all recycled polyester4. Further standards and certifications
Recycled polyester can also be made for rPET include the World Fair Trade
from other post-consumer plastics Organization (WFTO) standard
such as ocean waste, discarded and the Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP)
polyester textiles, or from pre-consumer Certification.
processing residues such as fabric
13.37% 13.66% 14.67% 14.83%
scraps. 12.86%
12.37%
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Polyester Fiber Market Report 2022. Customized report.
Source: TextileSource:
ExchangeTextile Exchange
based on based on maia research
Maia Research Source: Textile E
2 Maia Research, 2022. Global Recycled Polyester Fiber Market Report 2022. Customized report.
3 Textile Exchange, 2022. Based on sources listed in footnote (1) and (2).
4 Textile Exchange estimate based on (2) and bottom-up estimate of non-bottle rPET fiber production based on supplier mapping,
publicly available information, and market modeling.
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 72
Recycled polyester
Directory: Key suppliers and innovators
This map locates key suppliers and innovators of
France Netherlands
recycled polyester based on their headquarters.
• CARBIOS • CuRe Technology (formerly Cumapol)
• Premiere
• First Mile by Thread: Ground to Good™
Italy
• Unifi: REPREVE®
• Aquafil: ECOsense
• De Martini Bayart & Textifibra SpA 40%
• Imbotex: CLIMALIGHT
• Radici Group: Repetable® 49% RE
• Sinterama: Newlife™
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 73
Recycled polyester China
Directory: Key suppliers and innovators • Cixi Xingke 90%
Japan • Elite Color Environmental
This map locates key suppliers and innovators of • Itochu: RENU™ 60% • Fujian Baichuan Resources
India
• Aero Fibre
Sri Lanka
• AGL Polyfil Private Limited
• Eco Spindles
• Alliance Fibres: Greenfil
• Ganesha Ecosphere: Rivivere
Indonesia
• JB Ecotex 55%
• PT Inocycle Technology
Innovation beyond mechanical recycling of • Neelam Fibers
plastic bottles • Pashupati Polytex
• Pashupati Excrusions
Australia
Chemical recycling
• BlockTexx: S.O.F.T. rPET Pellets
• Plastics for Change
Biological recycling
• Polygenta: revalyu (perPETual)
Ocean waste incl. ocean bound
• Reliance: R|Elan™ GreenGold
Post-consumer textiles • Sulochana: ECOESPIN (Polycycle) 100%
Tip: How to find suppliers of recycled polyester.
Pre-consumer textiles • Sutlej Textiles
• Sybil Industries: SyGreen Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list of RCS- and
GRS-certified
GRS-certified suppliers. More details also in the supplier mapping.
% renewable energy (>40% reported)
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 74
Recycled polyester
Chemical and biological recycling
Most polyester is currently mechanically recycled post- and pre-consumer textiles. The production capacity polyester. The pilot plant is located in The Netherlands and
from PET bottles1. The market share of chemically or increased to 400 tonnes per year in 2020. In 2020, started operation at the end of 2019.
biologically recycled polyester is still very low (<1%). Key JEPLAN, Axens, and IFPEN announced their partnership
challenges related to chemical and biological recycling are to demonstrate and commercialize an an optimized, Garbo S.r.l. has developed an innovative “chemical
costs, technological challenges, feedstock suitability and glyolysis based PET depolymerization process for all types recycling” process, called ChemPET, which is able to
availability, as well as energy use. With new operations of waste PET called “Rewind™. Read more in the Supplier treat most of the PET-based waste that is currently not
starting the commercial production of chemically recycled Mapping. recoverable.
polyester, and further companies in the research and
Nan Ya Plastics SAYA is a GRS-certified commercially Gr3n invented a new chemical process using microwave
development phase, the market share of chemically
offered chemically recycled PET, also made from pre- radiation to accelerate the depolymerization of PET into
recycled polyester is expected to grow in the coming years.
and post-consumer textiles. Read more in the Supplier monomers.
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 75
Recycled polyester
Ocean-bound and ocean plastic
More than 8 million tonnes of plastic end up in the bottles are collected within 50 kilometers of coastlines PlasticBank is a social enterprise committed to stopping
oceans every year1. An increasing number of initiatives in countries or areas that lack formal waste or recycling ocean plastic while providing opportunities for brands to
are working on the collection of ocean-bound2 or ocean systems. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. have environmental and social impact. Social Plastic®
plastic as feedstock for recycled polyester. While the is ethically recovered material that transfers its value to
priority must be to avoid single-use plastic in the first Further ocean plastic initiatives communities in need. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
place, such initiatives can help to reduce the plastics
Circulate Capital is an investment management firm Seaqual is an initiative in Spain to clean oceans from
in our ocean as long as ocean-bound and ocean plastic
dedicated to financing innovation, companies, and marine litter. Licensed Seaqual members can produce,
exists.
infrastructure that prevent the flow of plastic waste into buy or sell products containing Upcycled Marine Plastic.
the world’s ocean while advancing the circular economy. Seaqual yarn is an 100% recycled material with full
Ocean-bound plastic standards
Circulate Capital established the world’s first investment traceability (“DNA tracer inside”). Read more in the
In 2020, Control Union and Zero Plastic Oceans launched fund dedicated to preventing ocean plastic: Circulate Supplier Mapping.
the Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP) Certification. The OBP Capital Ocean Fund (CCOF).
Certification Program is designed to encourage the Tide Ocean SA is currently being audited for the Global
removal of ocean-bound plastic from the environment by First Mile, an initiative of Thread International and WORK, Recycle Standard (GRS), the Recycled Claim Standard
adding value in effectively collecting and treating it before formalizes waste collection networks in low-income (RCS) and the Ocean Bound Plastic Certification (OBP).
it reaches oceans. communities and bridges the gap for global brands to
purchase from these responsible supply chains, while Further suppliers of recycled polyester made with ocean-
Textile Exchange Member Action diverting plastic waste from our oceans and landfills. Read bound or ocean plastic are listed on the recycled polyester
more in the Supplier Mapping. supplier map.
Plastics For Change is expanding to coastal communities
across Asia. This initiative is about creating better NextWave Plastics is a consortium of multinational
livelihoods for the urban poor while keeping plastic out of technology and consumer brands gathering in the spirit
the ocean. In 2021, Plastics For Change has become one of of collaboration and transparency to rapidly decrease the
the first companies in the world to be certified by the OBP volume of plastic litter entering the ocean by developing
certification. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. the first global network of ocean-bound plastic supply
chains.
SAYA Coastal is a specialized recycling program that
targets the clean-up and renewal of discarded plastic OceanCycle is a social enterprise reimagining the circular
bottles in coastal regions that would otherwise migrate out economy through sourcing, certifying and reusing
to sea. materials to prevent ocean plastic pollution.
Unifi's REPREVE® Our Ocean uses ocean-bound plastics Ocean Material is working with leading ocean recycling
certified by an independent third party organization. The specialists to replace virgin plastic with ocean plastic
waste.
1 IUCN, 2021. Website. Link.
2 Ocean-bound plastic is generally defined as Abandoned Plastic Waste located within the
range of 50km from shore. Source: Ocean Bound Plastic (OBP) Certification, 2021. Website.
Link. Photo: Seaqual
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 76
Recycled polyester
Fairness for waste pickers
While social conditions in the factories are, at least, on the
radar of most companies, the livelihoods of the waste picking
communities are often not yet sufficiently considered. With
first initiatives explicitly addressing the social impact on the
polyester feedstock collection level, it is expected that social
topics related to waste collection will receive increasing
attention in the next years.
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 77
Biobased polyester
An emerging material
The market share of biobased polyester is estimated at Radici's Biofeel® -PET is a 30% biobased polyester In 2014, Gevo, Inc. has announced that it is selling para-
around 0.02% of the total polyester production1. Biobased filament yarn produced from bio-PET resins made with xylene (PX) derived from its renewable isobutanol to Toray,
polyester has the potential to reduce GHG emissions, but plant-based bio-MEG. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. a leading producer of fibers, plastics, films, and chemicals.
materials have to be sourced and managed responsibly to PX is a primary raw material for the manufacture of bio-
realize this potential. Further development of feedstocks is In 2012, Teijin started the production of its ECO CIRCLE™ polyester (PET).
needed to provide the industry with innovative solutions to Plantfiber, a partially biobased PET resin made from
drive uptake of biobased polyesters. 30% bio-based EG derived from sugarcane and the rest Global BioChem is a Chinese producer of bio-MEG.
from petroleum-based dimethyl terephthalate (DMT) or
Many biosynthetic materials that exist on the market today terephthalic acid (PTA). India Glycols has been producing bio-MEG using ethylene
are partially biobased; it's important that the industry derived from bio-ethanol since 1989.
continues to invest and develop 100% biobased solutions. Toray's Ecodear® PET is a 30% plant-based polyester fiber
derived from sugarcane. Toray launched ecodear® as an Indorama offers a bio-PET resin made with 30% plant-
While many sustainability standards for biobased integrated brand for biomass-based polymer materials and based bio-MEG.
feedstocks exist, the scale and adoption of these standards products in 2013.
Iwatani develops eco-friendly resin using 30% plant-
for biosynthetics is still limited. Key standards for
based raw materials. Iwatani announced the procurement
biomass certification are the Roundtable for Sustainable Chemicals
of Bio-MEG from India-based India Glycols Limited, and
Biomaterials (RSB), ISCC Plus, and Bonsucro.
Avantium inaugurated its bio-MEG demonstration plant in consignment of Thailand-based Indorama Ventures in
the Netherlands in 2019. 2012.
Fibers and yarns
Anellotech is a US-based company producing BioBTX, a PEFerence announced the establishment of a biorefinery
OceanSafe naNea fibers are 25-30% biobased PET
biobased paraxylene. flagship plant producing FDCA (furan dicarboxylic acid), a
staple fibers. They are Cradle to Cradle Certified® Gold.
bio-based building block to produce high value products
Read more in the Supplier Mapping. Braskem and Haldor Topsoe announced a partnership including biobased polyester.
Far Eastern's TopGreen® Bio PET Filament is a in 2017 to validate the MOSAIK™ sugar-to-biochemicals
PET filament made with 30% biobased feedstock from solution for the production of bio-MEG in a demonstration Virent develops its BioFormPX® paraxylene made
sugarcane. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. plant. The demo plant started operation in 2019. from sugars. In 2016, Virent and FENC announced the first
100% bio-polyester shirt made with Virent’s BioFormPX®
LYCRA® T400® EcoMade fiber is PET fiber with more Gevo has developed fully renewable carbon-based para- paraxylene. Virent completed a year-long run of a
than 65% of the overall fiber content from a combination of xylene, a key ingredient to convert petro-based polyester demonstration plant in 2017/18 which demonstrates the
chemically recycled plastics (PET bottles) and renewable for fibers and bottles to 100% renewable content. It opened technology to convert plant sugars to bio-paraxylene, a
plant-based resources (corn). Read more in the Supplier a plant making biobased paraxylene in Texas in 2013. Gevo critical raw material for biobased polyester fiber. Read
Mapping. and Toray signed a bio-paraxylene offtake agreement more in the Supplier Mapping.
for the world’s first pilot-scale fully renewable, bio-based
polyethylene terephthalate (PET) production in 2012.
1 Estimate based on nova-Institute, 2021. Bio-based Building Blocks and Polymers – Global
Capacities, Production and Trends 2020 – 2025. Link and Maia Research, 2022. Global
Polyester Fiber Market.
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 78
Commitments to preferred polyester
Accelerating the transition
Commitments to Recycled Polyester Global polyester fiber market growth trend without acceleration of decoupling from virgin fossil feedstock
In April 2021, Textile Exchange and the United Nations (total polyester fiber in million tonnes and % of recycled)
Framework Convention on Climate Change’s Fashion
Industry Charter for Climate Action (UNFCCC) launched 90
a joint initiative to spur a shift in the market towards the
uptake of recycled polyester and its associated reduction in
greenhouse gases. 70.7
68.2
63.3 65.4
The 2025 Recycled Polyester Challenge serves as an 60.5
60 57.7 57.1
important catalyst for change in the apparel industry. 53.0 55.1
51.6
It is challenging the industry to commit to bringing the
overall percentage of recycled polyester up from 14% to
45% by 2025. It encourages brands to commit to the most
ambitious uptake target possible of 80-100% recycled
30
polyester.
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyester PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 79
Synthetic Fibers:
Synthetic Fibers
Polyamide
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 81
Recycled polyamide
Directory: Key suppliers and innovators
This map locates key suppliers and innovators producing recycled polyamide by headquarters.
All polyamide is mechanically recycled from pre-consumer waste unless otherwise indicated.
Japan
• Toray: CYCLEAD™
China
• Guangdong Xinhui Meida Nylon
Spain • Highsun Holding Group
• Nurel: Reco Nylon® 100% (renewable carbon credits)
• Zhejiang Taihua New Materials
• Nylstar: Meryl® Recycled
Taiwan
• Chain Yarn: Chainlon
Innovation beyond mechanical recycling Greenlon® Recycled
of pre-consumer materials • Far Eastern: FEFC® eco
• Formosa: Sunylon
Chemical recycling
Italy
Fishing nets
• Aquafil: ECONYL®
Post-consumer textiles • De Martini Bayart & Textifibra: ACEPORA-ECO®NY 30%
Other feedstock • Fulgar: Q-NOVA®
• Radici: Renycle ® 42% Tip: How to find suppliers of recycled polyamide.
GRS-certified
Check out the Textile Exchange database for a list of
% renewable energy (>40% reported)
RCS- and GRS-certified suppliers. Find more details
also in the Supplier Mapping.
Textile Exchange members are highlighted in bold (as of September 2022).
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 82
Biobased polyamide
Introduction and supplier innovation landscape
The global production volume for biobased polyamide Chemicals and resins PEFerence announced the establishment of a biorefinery
fiber is around 0.02 million tonnes.1 It is estimated that the flagship plant producing FDCA (furan dicarboxylic acid), a
Anellotech announced the production of sample quantities
share of biobased polyamide fibers is around 0.4% of the bio-based building block to produce high value products
of bio-based benzene in 2019.
polyamide fiber market.1 including biobased polyamide and polyester.
Arkema’s Rilsan® is a 100% bio-based polyamide 11 resin
Fibers and yarns RadiciGroup’s Radipol® DC is a 64% biobased polyamide
derived from castor seeds oil. With its partners, Arkema is
6.10 resin. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
Cathay’s TERRYL® is a biobased polyamide line offering driving the sustainable production of castor seeds in India
PA56, PA510, PA512, PA514 and co-polymers chips and through the Pragati Initiative since 2016. Read more in the RadiciGroup’s Radipol® PX resin is a 100% biobased
filament with 31 to 100% renewable shares. Supplier Mapping. polyamide 5.10 resin based on castor. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping.
Chainlon’s biobased polyamide 6.6 yarn is made with BASF Ultramid® Biomass Balance Polyamide is a mass-
Evonik’s VESTAMID® Terra HS® and contains 62% balance based polyamide. Virent’s BioFormBZ®Benzene is a biobased benzene
biobased content made from castor oil. that can be used to produce polyamide. Read more in the
DSM’s EcoPaXX® is a 70% biobased polyamide (PA410)
Supplier Mapping.
Fulgar’s EVO® is a 100% biobased polyamide yarn made resin derived from the castor bean plant.
from castor oil.
Evonik and BioAmber have a long-term agreement for the
RadiciGroup’s Biofeel® PA is a 64 to 100% biobased development and manufacturing of catalysts for making
polyamide filament yarn derived from castor oil and BDO (1,4- butanediol), THF (tetrahydrofuran), and GBL
agricultural waste. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. (gamma-butyrolactone) from biobased succinic acid.
RadiciGroup’s Dorix® 6.10 is 64% biobased polyamide Evonik’s VESTAMID® is the name for a group of polyamides
staple fiber made from castor. Read more in the Supplier based on renewable raw materials: The monomers are
Mapping. obtained partly or entirely from castor oil.
RadiciGroup’s Radilon® 6.10 is a 64% biobased polyamide Scientists at Sweden’s Lund University have found a way to
yarn. convert cotton into sugar, which in turn can be made into
elastane or polyamide.
Toray’s ECODEAR® PA 6.10 is a biobased polyamide
filament derived from the castor bean. Genomatica announced the world’s first ton of 100%
biobased caprolactam (CPL) in 2020 which is converted
Unitika, partner of Arkema, offers Castlon®, a 100% into polyamide 6. Genomatica collaborates with Aquafil.
biobased polyamide filament derived from castor seed oil. The development is part of the “Project EFFECTIVE.” Read
more in the Supplier Mapping.
1 Estimate based on nova-Institute, 2021. Bio-based Building Blocks and Polymers. Global
Capacities, Production and Trends 2020-2025. Link and Maia Research, 2022. Global
Polyamide Fiber Market 2021. Customized report. Photo: Arkema
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 83
Commitments to preferred polyamide
Examples
Brands and retailers are starting to make public Other commitments
commitments to replace virgin polyamide with recycled
Arkema, producer of the 100% bio-based polyamide 11
polyamide.
resin Rilsan® derived from castor seeds oil, is working
with partners to drive the sustainable production of castor
Examples of public commitments to recycled
seeds in India through the Pragati Initiative since 2016.
polyamide by Textile Exchange members
Read more here.
Everlane is committed to using only recycled nylon by
2021. Read more here.
H&M is committed to using only 100% recycled or other Make a Standards Commitment
sustainably sourced materials including recycled nylon. Whether you have already made a commitment to
Read more here. one or more of Textile Exchange’s Standards, or you
want to share a new one, you may use this form to
Moose Knuckles is committed to eliminate virgin nylon
register details of your commitment(s).
from its garments by the end of 2025. Read more here.
Photo: Arkema
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Polyamide PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 84
Synthetic Fibers:
Synthetic Fibers
The production volumes of further other synthetics such 0.17% 0.31% 1.20% 1.63% 1.89% 2.29% 2.61%
0.00% 0.00% 0.10% 0.15% 0.19% 0.00% 0.00% 0.07%
as polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT),2019 0.00% acid
polylactic 0.00%
0.00% 0.10%
0.00% 0.15%
0.10% 0.19%
0.15% 0.00%
0.19% 0.00%
0.00% 0.07%
0.00% 0.17%
0.07%1.63% 0.31%
0.17%
1.89%
1.20% 2.29%
1.63
2017 2018 2020 2021 2017
0.00% 2018
0.00% 2019
0.00%
0.10% 2020
0.00%
0.15% 0.10%2021
0.19% 0.15%0.00% 2017
0.19% 0.00% 2018 0.07%
0.00% 20190.17%
0.00% 2020
0.07%
0.31% 0.17% 1.20%
2021 0.31%
1.20% 1.63% 1.89% 2.29% 2.61%
0.00% are very
(PLA), and similar 0.00%low and 0.10%
currently
Program 0.15%
not
Recycled Virgin included
% recycled 0.19% 0.00% 0.00%Program 0.07%
Recycled
2017Virgin % recycled0.17% 0.31% 2020 Recycled Virgin % recycled
2017 2018
2017 2019
2018
2017 2018 2020
20192019 2018
2020 2021
2020 2019
2021 2017 2017
2021 2021 2018 2017
2019 2018
2017 2018
2020 2019
2018
2019
2021 2020 2017 2020
20192021 2018 2021
2020
2017
2019 201
2020
Recycled Virgin
% recycled
2018 Program Recycled2019
Virgin % recycled Program Recycled Virgin % recycled 2017Program 2018
Recycled Virgin 2019 Recycled Virgin2020
% recycled Program
% recycled 2021
in the report. 2017 Source: Textile
2018 2019
Exchange based on maia research
2020 2021
Program
2017
Recycled Virgin
Program
Source: Textile % recycled
Exchange Recycled
based on maiaVirgin
2020
research % recycled
2021
Source: Textile Exchange based onProgram
maia researchRecycled Virgin
Program % recycled
Recycled Virgin % recycled
Program Recycled Virgin % recycled Program Recycled Virgin % recycled Recycled Virgin % recycled
Source:
Source: Textile Exchange based on Textile Exchange based on maia research
maia research Source:
Source: Textile Exchange based on Textile Exchange based on maia research
maia research Source:
Source: Textile Exchange based on Textile Exchange
maia research
Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research Source: Textile Exchange based on Maia Research
Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange based on maia research
Source: Textile Exchange
Source:based
TextileonExchange
maia research
based on maia research Source: Textile Exchange
Source:based
TextileonExchange
maia research
based on maia research
1 Maia Research, 2022. Global Other Synthetics Fiber Market Report 2022. Customized report.
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Other Synthetic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 86
Other recycled or biobased synthetics
Recycled and biobased elastane, acrylic, and polypropylene
There are several examples of recycled or biobased start in 2024 will be 66,000 tonnes per annum. Biobased
synthetics other than polyester and polyamide, such as BDO is a chemical that can be used for a variety of
recycled elastane, acrylic or polypropylene. applications including biobased elastane. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping.
Recycled elastane
Scientists at Sweden’s Lund University have found a way to
Asahi Kasei’s Roica™ EF launched its first GRS- convert cotton into sugar, which in turn can be made into
certified recycled elastane, a polyurethane filament made elastane or polyamide.
from pre-consumer materials, in 2016. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping. Recycled acrylic
Hyosung’s creora regen elastane, a GRS-certified, 100% Aksa started the commercial scale production of
recycled elastane, was launched in 2019. Acrycycle® recycled acrylic fiber made with 100% pre-
consumer material in 2019. Read more in the Supplier
LYCRA® EcoMade fiber is The LYCRA Company’s first Mapping.
branded elastane made with recycled content, introduced
in 2019. The fiber contains 20% pre-consumer content, Hebei Acrylic Fibre offers a 70% recycled acrylic fiber
diverting waste, and keeping materials in use. Read more branded as RCA. It is made from pre-consumer acrylic
in the Supplier Mapping. textiles and RCS-certified. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.
Sheico Group’s Sheiflex® is a recycled elastane which
received its GRS certification in 2017. Thai Acrylic Fibre Co. Ltd. (TAF), part of Aditya Birla
Group, has launched a recycled acrylic fibre branded as
Spanflex™ recycled elastane is GRS-certified. “Regel™”, which is made by with 50% pre-consumer
recycled acrylic textiles and is GRS-certified. Read more in
Biobased elastane the Supplier Mapping.
The Lycra Company launched the LYCRA® 162 R fiber,
an elastane fiber with 70% biobased content derived from Recycled polypropylene
corn, in 2014. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. Radici’s Respunsible® is a recycled polypropylene
spunbond from pre-consumer materials. Read more in the
The Helm AG in collaboration with Cargill launched QIRA,
Supplier Mapping.
a biobased 1,4 Butanediol (BDO) with around 95% corn-
based feedstock, in 2021. The production capacity at the
Photo: USGS
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Other Synthetic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 87
Other recycled or biobased synthetics
Supplier innovation landscape
Biobased PLA Biobased PTT The Helm AG in collaboration with Cargill launched QIRA,
a biobased 1,4 Butanediol (BDO) with around 95% corn-
Advansa offers ADVA® made from PLA staple fibers. Read Covation Biomaterial's (fomerly DuPont's) Sorona®,
based feedstock, in 2021. The production capacity at the
more in the Supplier Mapping. commercially available since 2000 and celebrating its 20th
start in 2024 will be 66,000 tonnes per annum. Biobased
anniversary in 2020, is a partially biobased PTT polyester
In 2021, Total Corbion PLA, a 50/50 joint venture between BDO is a chemical that can be used for a variety of
polymer with 37% biobased content by weight made from
Total and Corbion, confirms that it has kicked off the front- applications including biobased polyurethane. Read more
corn sugar. As of 2021, Covation Biomaterials has many
end engineering design stage for its new 100,000 tonnes in the Supplier Mapping.
fiber production partners across the globe and over 150
per annum PLA plant in France. mill partners. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
Biobased PBS
Far Eastern offers biobased PLA made with Ecopel’s KOBA® is a bio-based material with 37% biobased Kintra Fibers is developing a polybutylene succinate
NatureWorks Ingeo™, which is made from corn. content based on Sorona® fiber from Covation Biomaterials (PBS), which is a linear aliphatic polyester, currently with
(formerly DuPont). Read more in the Supplier Mapping. 50% biobased content derived from corn. Read more in the
Natureworks has developed its Ingeo™ branded PLA
to manufacture plastics and fibers. Ingeo™ is currently Supplier Mapping.
Far Eastern offers biobased PTT.
derived from corn, cassava, sugar cane or beets. In 2019,
NatureWorks announced its commitment that 100% of Toray`s Ecodear® PTT is a 30% plant-based PTT.
its agricultural feedstock used for Ingeo will be ISCC Plus
certified by 2020. The Natureworks R&D team is also Teijin Frontier's SOLOTEX® ECO-Hybrid fiber was
working on a new technology to skip plants entirely. launched in 2020. The high-stretch fiber combines
biobased PTT and chemically recycled PET.
NOOSA® is a 100% biobased PLA, which is made from
corn and sugarcane. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. Biobased PHA
Palmetto Synthetics offers biobased PLA staple fiber made In 2021, Fashion for Good launched The Renewable Carbon
with NatureWorks Ingeo®, which is derived from corn. Textiles Project, a consortium project to accelerate the
development of PHA fibers from different feedstocks
Radici’s Biofeel® - PLA (formerly Cornleaf) is a 100% together with the innovators Bio Craft Innovation, Full
biobased filament yarn based on Ingeo™ PLA biopolymer, Cycle Bioplastics and Newlight.
which is made from corn. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping. Biobased polyurethane
Toray also offers a 100% biobased PLA filament. Covation Biomaterials (formerly DuPont) Susterra®
PDO is 100% corn-based building block, called
Trevira, an Indorama Ventures company, offers propanediol, for a variety of polyurethane applications.
biobased PLA fibers and filaments made with Nature Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
Works LLC Ingeo™ which is made from grain (corn).
Photo: Kintra
CONTENTS Synthetic Fibers: Other Synthetic Fibers PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 88
Other Manmade
Fibers & Materials
CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 90
Recycled fibers from blended textiles
Chemical recycling of blended materials
Mistra Future Fashion’s Blend Re:Wind is a Swedish MMCF textiles. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
process for the recycling of poly-cotton blended textiles.
Cotton is turned into new high-quality viscose filaments Worn Again Technologies’ patented process can
and polyester into two pure new monomers. separate, decontaminate, and extract polyester polymers
and cellulose (from cotton) from non-reusable textiles, as
Phoenxt is a textile-to-textile chemical recycling well as plastic bottles and packaging, to go back into new
technology that aims to convert textile waste back to raw products as part of a repeatable process. The construction
material, including blended materials made of polyester, of Worn Again Technologies’ first demonstration plant with
cotton, and cellulosic fibers. Read more in the Supplier a capacity of 1,000 tonnes per year is scheduled to start
Mapping. end of 2022 in Winterthur, Switzerland. Read more in the
Supplier Mapping.
RISE - The Regenerator is working on a technology to
recirculating fashion by separating cotton and polyester
blends, turning them into new textile fiber.
Photo: Circ
CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 91
Recycled fibers from blended textiles
Mechanical recycling of blended textiles
Mechanical recycling
Photo: MPCA
CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 92
Manmade protein fibers
Overview
Biobased manmade protein fibers are another example
of material innovations. Please note that not all biobased
fibers are, by definition, sustainable or preferred. Further
research is required in order to assess their sustainability
profiles holistically.
CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 93
CO2-based fibers
Overview
Addressing climate change is one of the most urgent the production of the world’s first partially CO2-based
action areas for the textile industry. A few companies polyester yarn and fabric. Later in 2021, Lanzatech
are exploring innovative approaches to directly capture together with Far Eastern New Century (FENC) and
carbon dioxide (CO2) from the air and use its carbon as Inditex’s Zara announced their first partially CO2-based
feedstock for textiles. This can be processed into pre- capsule collection. Steel mill emissions were captured
cursor chemicals which are used in the production of and converted into ethanol to produce 20% CO2-based
synthetic fibers such as polyester. Direct Carbon Capture polyester.
and Utilization (CCU) is a new technology in development.
Its energy use is currently very high but if technological Mango Materials is developing a process to produce PHA
challenges are overcome and if it is powered by renewable biopolymers from waste biogas (methane) via a microbial
energy it has great potential as alternative to virgin fossil process.
feedstock.
NatureWorks is currently using plants to capture and
sequester CO2 into long-chain sugar molecules, and
Examples
its PLA called ingeo. Their R&D team is assessing new
Covestro and its partners, foremost the Institute of Textile technology to skip plants and use microorganisms to
Technology at RWTH Aachen University and various textile convert greenhouse gases into lactic acid directly.
manufacturers, announced in July 2019 that they have
succeeded in making elastic textile fibers based on CO2 NewLight is working on a technology to turn greenhouse
and in doing so, partly replacing crude oil as a raw material. gases into aircarbon™, a PHB that can be melted and
forged into fibers and solid parts.
Fairbrics is a Global Change Award winner developing
a technology to convert greenhouse gas into polyester. RUBI, Global Change Award winner 2022, is developing a
In 2021, Fairbrics produced the first proof-of-concept technology to produce viscose made of carbon emissions
garment partially made of CO2 converted into polyester captured from the air.
with the help of H&M group’s Circular Innovation Lab
(CIL). The pilot project is planned for 2023 and the first
commercialization in 2025. Read more in the Supplier
Mapping.
1 Covestro July 2, 2019 Press Release “Dress with CO2”. More information here. Photo: Covestro
CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 94
Manmade non-fiber materials
An overview
While leather is a by-product of the meat and dairy MYLIUM is a mycelium-based material. Other natural
industry, some brands prefer emerging manmade non- ingredients are added to the mycelium to strongly bind it
fiber materials. together. The material can be finished with a coating to
finetune its properties.
While most manmade non-fiber materials are fossil-based
synthetics, a rapidly growing number of partially (and Reishi™ from MycoWorks is a material grown rapidly from
rarely fully) recycled and biobased manmade non-fiber mycelium and agricultural byproducts.
materials is being developed. Many are still in development
as it is not easy to achieve some of the quality attributed of Sporatex™ from Spora Biotech is a mycelium-based
natural leather, such as its durability. material.
While partially or ideally fully substituting fossil-based 100% bio-based materials containing rubber or gum
with biobased or recycled content is a start, continuous
Bambuflex© is a 100% biobased material derived from
improvements and a holistic approach including material
bamboo.
health and circularity are important.
Malai Biocomposite is a biobased material based on
Mycelium-based materials bacterial cellulose and a blend of natural fibers. It is grown
Bolt Threads—Mylo™ is developed from mycelium in coconut water, a leftover from the coconut industry in
cells. First consumer products made with Mylo™ were South India, through fermentation of a bacterial culture.
revealed in 2021. Read more in the Supplier Mapping. This jelly is harvested and enriched with natural fibers,
gums and resins to create a more durable and flexible
Forager™ by Ecovative are 100% biobased materials made material. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
from mycelium.
Natural Fiber Welding’s Mirum™ is a 100% plant-based
MuSkin is a 100% biobased material derived from the material. Ingredients used include cotton and hemp fiber,
Phellinus Ellipsoideus, a parasitic fungus that grows in the coconut coir, cork, natural rubber, and similar. Unlike most
wild and attacks the trees in the subtropical forests. other non-fiber materials, the final Mirum™ materials are
not coated in polyurethane or PVC. The cork and rubber
MYCL is currently developing Mylea™, a mycelium-based part is FSC-certified. Read more in the Supplier Mapping.
non-fiber material.
CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 95
Manmade non-fiber materials
An overview
Partially bio-based materials blended with Bioengineered materials
polyurethane or other synthetics
Modern Meadow’s Zoa™ is a bioengineered material based
Desserto from Adriano di Marti is a partially biobased on the protein collagen produced through fermentation
material, launched in 2019. The resin is made with 40% from yeast in a lab with the support of biotechnology.
cactus fiber, protein, pigments and 60% polyurethane. Modern Meadow is currently collaborating with selected
Backings are made with different fiber blends. More in the brands to launch their first products in 2019.
supplier mapping.
Provenance is a bioengineered material based on collagen
Piñatex® is a non-fiber material made of up to 95% of as building blocks.
renewable resources including 72% Pineapple Leaf Fibers
(PALF), 18% biobased PLA, 5% biobased PU, and 5% Vitrolabs is a biotechnology company based in California
fossil-based PU. More in the supplier mapping. using stem cell-based technologies to develop a manmade
non-fiber material. More in the supplier mapping.
Ultraleather® Volar Bio is a a blended multi-layer non-
fiber material with 29% biobased content, composed of a Further manmade non-fiber materials
polycarbonate and biobased surface made from corn and a
Several further manmade non-fiber material types such as
backing consisting of 65% polyester and 35% rayon. More
coated textiles and cork-based materials exist.
in the supplier mapping.
Vegea uses grape marc, the seeds and the stalks of the
wine grape bunch, which are left over after winemaking,
combined with polyurethane (PUD), resulting in a 70%
biobased and 30% fossil-based manmade non-fiber
material.
CONTENTS Other Manmade Fibers & Materials PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 96
Sustainability Standards
& Traceability
Standard (GOTS) both further expanded their market. 2023. Read more information here.
CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 98
Sustainability standards
Standards that can be used for multiple fiber types
The two leading standards for textiles made with The number of GRS certified sites increased significantly
recycled materials—the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) from 14,367 in 2020 to 25,763 in 2021. RCS: Number of certified sites
and the Global Recycled Standard (GRS)—are growing 10,000
particularly fast. Towards a unified standard 8,004
8,000
In July 2021, Textile Exchange began a comprehensive
Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) 6,000
revision of its standards framework with the intent to
The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) is an international, embed its Climate+ strategy into a more unified standard 4,383
4,000
voluntary standard that sets requirements for third-party system across its eight standards. “Unified standard” is 2,497
certification of recycled input and chain of custody. The goal being used as a placeholder to refer to the development 2,000
505 691
of the standard is to increase the use of recycled materials. of the new standard system. A concurrent process is 220
0
underway to establish a name for our future standard(s). 2016 2017 2018 2019 2020 2021
The RCS 2.0 has been in effect since July 2018. A key Textile Exchange is anticipating publication of the new
update was the introduction of the Reclaimed Materials standard system in Quarter 4 of 2023 (subject to change).
Supplier Agreement, a document that provides more To learn more about the unified standard progress, read
visibility into the suppliers of reclaimed materials. In April more here. GRS: Number of certified sites
2021, Textile Exchange began another revision of the RCS.
The revision process of the RCS will be rolled into the Cradle to Cradle (C2C) 30,000
development of the unified standard. Read more here. 25,763
25,000
Cradle to Cradle Certified® is a globally recognized measure
The number of RCS certified sites increased from 4,383 in of safer, more sustainable products made for the circular 20,000
2020 to 8,004 in 2021. economy. 14,367
15,000
CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 99
Traceability and transparency
Brands and retailers are increasingly being held Introducing Textile Exchange Trackit The MVP (Minimum Viable Product) development of
accountable for what happens throughout the value dTrackit was completed in November 2021. Since then,
Textile Exchange standards cover third-party certification
chain. The ability to map the materials value chain is Textile Exchange has been improving the system and
at site and transaction level. As different certification
not only critical for due diligence but core to tracking ingesting, cleaning, and harmonizing data from its 30
bodies operate in different regions, traceability is
progress towards Textile Exchange Climate+ strategic approved certification bodies. Phase 1 of dTrackit is on
disaggregated across certification bodies which makes
direction and the Sustainable Development Goals. course for release in January 2023 with the following
value chain mapping a challenge. The Textile Exchange
While the majority of the top 100 apparel brands have features.
Trackit program is being developed to address these
sustainable material targets in place, according to a 2019 • Find a certified company: An up-to-date search engine
challenges and support the traceability needs for Textile
UNECE study, only about 34% of companies track and for certified companies and its materials, processes and
Exchange standards. The Trackit program offers two
trace their value chains, of which half have visibility only products.
traceability paths:
up to their immediate suppliers.
• Transaction authentication: A capability to
• Digital Trackit “dTrackit” forms the traceability baseline authenticate transaction certificates.
Textile Exchange Trackit is our response to this call to
for the existing certification process of all Textile
action—a formative program for improved integrity, • dTrackit brand portal: A portal for certified brands to
Exchange standards. Traceability in dTrackit is achieved
traceability, and efficiency of sustainable material centrally access scope certificate, transaction certificate
by centralizing and connecting scope and transaction
provenance. and traceability data.
certification data stored by certification bodies.
In October 2021, Textile Exchange and TextileGenesis™
The role of sustainability standards in traceability • Electronic Trackit “eTrackit” is an alternative for
announced the RCS and GRS pilot of Textile Exchange’s
companies wanting more granular traceability using
Standards provide the industry with a way to verify Electronic Trackit “eTrackit” program. The pilot was
innovative technologies. It takes the traceability of
sustainability claims of a product. In general, there are completed in July 2022 and improvements from the pilot
Textile Exchange standards one step further by tracking
three levels of verification: feedback is now underway. Subject to final approval,
the volume of certified material of each product (rather
eTrackit is planned for release in first half of 2023.
than the entire transaction) entirely online via tokens
• Site level
(think eBanking). Traceability is achieved by tracking
• Transaction level these tokens at an article level in a central platform
• Physical material level which certification bodies access for verification
and approval. Physical material verification may be
Credible traceability requires the interplay of verification
integrated and reconciled with data along the chain for
at site, transaction, and physical material levels. What
additional assurance
is traced, how it is traced, and the assurance levels very
much depend on the chain of custody and requirements of
the standard.
CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 100
Traceability and transparency
The Textile Tracer Assessment Oritain offers an isotope technology to trace products back
to their true origin.
Fashion for Good, together with Textile Exchange, jointly
released "The Textile Tracer Assessment", a detailed The Waste2Wear® blockchain system provides
analysis for benchmarking physical tracer technologies indisputable evidence that Waste2Wear® Fabrics are really
relevant in the textile industry in July 2021. Read more made of plastic waste. The blockchain records the journey
here. of the plastic waste bottles, step-by-step, to become a
finished textile product and allows customers to track each
Textile Exchange Member Action step in the value chain of the fabrics that they ordered.
Applied DNA Science is a B2B technology providing
innovative molecular business solutions under the
CertainT Platform to enable brands and manufacturers to
Tag-Test-Track their raw materials all the way to finished
product. Applied DNA Science offer solutions for cotton,
down & feather, leather, synthetic fibers, and many other
materials.
Photo: FSO
CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 101
Impact Incentives
Making impact happen
Textile Exchange has led the development of Impact The Partner Programs support the farmers through
Incentives, Impact Partnerships and is a founding member training, infrastructure investments, verification and data
of the Impact Alliance. collection, while providing stories, data, and credibility
back to the brands. This model allows brands to share the
Impact Incentives are a market mechanism for risk and cost of improving practices to meet a standard
brands to deliver their expectations back to the start that is normally carried by farmers alone.
of the supply chain and provide financial rewards to
encourage improved practices. In 2021, the Impact Incentives were piloted for leather.
In 2022, the piloting will continue for leather and Textile
The way they work is quite simple: farms that have been Exchange is extending the model to cotton and cashmere.
verified to meet a set of sustainability requirements will
be able to sell Impact Incentives proportional to their For more information, visit
production of raw material. Brands can purchase Impact www.impactincentives.org and textileexchange.org/
Incentives to reward farmers for improved practices and impact-incentives.
help build the supply of preferred materials.
Impact Incentives are a powerful tool to address
The farms selling the Incentives may or may not be in the
supply chain of the brands. While this means that brands the complexity of supply chains and connect
can't make any content claims on their products, they can brands with farmers to share the risks and costs
bypass the cost and complexity of long or opaque supply of improved practices. They provide a fast and
chains to deliver impact quickly and efficiently. Brands
efficient means to build up a more sustainable
can still make claims about their support for improved
practices and tell credible stories based on the data supply and drive the speed and scale of impact
collected from the farms. that is needed to address the world’s challenges.
The Impact Partnership is an option to help brands work
– Anne Gillespie, Director of impact Acceleration, Textile
with on-the-ground Partner Programs to support farmers
Exchange
to meet the Impact Incentives requirements within three
years.
CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 102
Textile Exchange programs
Corporate Fiber & Materials Benchmark Global Fiber Impact Explorer
Textile Exchange’s Corporate Fiber & Materials Benchmark The Global Fibre Impact Explorer (GFIE) tool is a web-
(CFMB) program enables participating companies to based environmental data platform enabling companies
measure, manage, and integrate a preferred fiber and to assess the risk associated with their raw materials
materials strategy into their business. By participating sourcing regions. The platform brings together hundreds
in the corporate benchmark, companies demonstrate a of relevant national and regional data sets into an algorithm
commitment to transparency and continuous improvement that provides risk assessment and recommendations for
around their materials sourcing strategy. addressing key hotspots.
Textile Exchange’s ambition is to be the driving force for The first version of the GFIE was gifted to Textile Exchange
urgent climate action on textile fiber and materials. By in 2021 by Google and development of the tool is ongoing.
benchmarking the industry and providing actionable tools Read more here.
for improvement, we are pushing a race to the top. Read
more here. Round Tables
Preferred Fiber and Materis Matrix Textile Exchange’s round tables are designed to enable
entities all along the textile supply chain, from farmers to
Textile Exchange created the Preferred Fiber and Material brands, to work collectively towards its Climate+ goals
(PFM) Matrix to help everyone from brands to suppliers by sharing learning opportunities, tools, relevant data,
and consumers to compare the impacts of different fibers, reports, and more. They brings together stakeholders from
materials, certifications, and initiatives according to the across the industry through online meetings, webinars,
material type. Its categories include cotton, synthetics, flax and at the annual Textile Exchange Conference.
(baste fibers), manmade cellulosic fibers (MMCFs), and
wool (animal fibers). The organization’s mission is to mobilize action by
establishing a shared understanding of core material
The PFM Matrix exists to enable more responsible sustainability issues, creating alignment on goals
sourcing decisions backed by guidance from a trusted, and actions, boosting commitment from brands, and
centralized data source. It builds upon—instead of being measuring progress. Read more here.
limited to—Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) data, using
program documentation, quantitative and qualitative
research studies, and data quality considerations. In this
way, it enables brands to consider a more holistic set of
impacts. Read more here.
CONTENTS Sustainability Standards & Traceability PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 103
Supplier Mapping
Photo: NextEvo
CONTENTS Supplier Mapping PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 105
Supplier mapping
Synthetics
Recycled Polyester (download) • SEAQUAL: SEAQUAL® (2022) • Radici: Respunsible® (2021)
• ADVANSA: Suprelle® + ADVA® (2022) • Shinkong: RecoTex (2022) • Thai Acrylic: Regel (2022)
• Aero Fibre (2021) • Sulochana: ECOESPIN, formerly Polycycle (2022) • The LYCRA Company: EcoMade recycled elastane
• AGL: Polyfil (2019) • Thai Polyester: EcoTPC™ (2020) (2020)
• Alliance Fibres: Greenfil (2022) • The LYCRA Company: LYCRA® T400® EcoMade Biosynthetics (download)
• BlockTexx: S.O.F.T. rPET Pellets (2021) (2021) • ADVANSA: ADVA® PLA (2021)
• Carbios (2021) • The LYCRA Company: THERMOLITE® EcoMade • Arkema: Rilsan® polyamide 11 (2021)
(2021)
• Cixi Xingke (2019) • Covation Biomaterials (formerly DuPont): Sorona®
• The LYCRA Company: COOLMAX® EcoMade (2021) PTT (2021)
• De Martini Bayart & Textifibra Spa: non-branded (2021)
• The Movement: Polylana® (2021) • Covation Biomaterials (formerly DuPont): Susterra®
• DePoly (2022)
• Unifi: REPREVE® (2020) PDO (2021)
• EcoBlue: 3D-Pure rPET chips (2022)
• Worn Again Technologies (2021) • Ecopel: KOBA® (2020)
• Far Eastern: FENC® TOPGREEN® (2022)
• Zhejiang Haili: Reboyarn (2020) • Far Eastern: FENC® TOPGREEN® (2019)
• First Mile (2019)
• Genomatica: Biobased Nylon 6 (2020)
• Gatron: Ecoron (2022) Recycled Polyamide (download)
• HELM AG: QIRA (2021)
• IMBOTEX: CLIMALIGHT (2021) • Aquafil S.p.A.: ECONYL® (2022)
• Kintra Fibers: Biobased PBS (2021)
• Itochu: Renu™ (2022) • De Martini Bayart & Textifibra Spa: Non-branded (2019,
• NOOSA: NOOSA® (2022)
• JB Ecotex: non-branded (2022) 2021)
• OceanSafe AG: naNea (2022)
• Jeplan: Bring Material™ (2020) • Far Eastern: FEFC® eco (2022)
• Radici: Biofeel® PET (2021)
• Nan-Ya Plastics: Saya (2020) • Fulgar-Q-Nova (2022)
• Radici: Biofeel® PA (2021)
• Neelam Fibers (2020) • Nilit (2019)
• Radici: Biofeel® PLA (2021)
• Pashupati (2020) • Nurel: Reco Nylon (2022)
• Radici: dorix® 6.10 (2021)
• Pinnacle (2022) • Radici: Renycle® (2022)
• Radici: Radipol® DC (2021)
• Plastics for Change (2022) • Taekwang Industrial: Acepora-Eco® (2021)
• Radici: Radipol® PX (2021)
• Polygenta: perPETual (2021) Other Recycled Synthetics (download) • The LYCRA Company: Lycra® 162 R (2020)
• Radici: Repetable® (2021) • Aksa: Acrycycl® recycled acrylic (2020) • Virent: BioForm Paraxylene + Benzene (2019)
• Reliance: RElan™ Green Gold (2020) • Asahi Kasei Corporation: ROICA™ EF (2021)
• REO-ECO (2022) • Hebei Acrylic Fibre: RCA (2022)
CONTENTS Supplier Mapping PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 106
Supplier mapping
CONTENTS Supplier Mapping PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 107
Methodology & Disclaimer
CONTENTS Methodology & Disclaimer PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 109
Methodology
in several countries (e.g. 2020/21 wool production volumes 3. News and narratives is a condition of the USCTP. The cotton that is part
are allocated to the 2021 calendar year). of Field to Market but not part of the USCTP is not
The news, updates, stories, quotes and narratives
otherwise certified or verified.
e) Modelling presented in the report are either based on information
directly received from the companies and organizations or • ICPSS was included for the first time as a new BCI
To close data gaps, modeling as well as assumptions and from their press releases or websites. equivalent program.
inference have been used (e.g. applying country average • QAI International was discontinued in 2021 and thus
yields instead of program-specific yields). Methodological changes, data revision, and excluded.
comparison to previous years • ROC production volumes for 2018/19 and 2019/20 were
f) Fiber specific methodology
Textile Exchange continuously improves its data collection updated.
Organic cotton data: For a detailed description of the and analysis. Some data reported in previous years has • Updated ICAC cotton statistics were applied, including
methodology behind the organic cotton production been revised or updated since the actual data has become revision of the data of a couple of previous years.
volumes, please see our Organic Cotton Market Report. available for initial estimates, or the methodology has • Updated FAO statistics for other plant-based fibers,
been improved. A simple comparison between previously rubber, and leather were applied.
Recycled cotton, wool, down: As ICAC’s cotton data, reported numbers and data reported in this year does not
IWTO’s wool data, and Maia Research’s down data refer • Updated figures for the production volume of synthetics
show the actual change over time but is caused by these
to virgin production volumes, the recycled cotton, wool, (including recycled polyester), MMCFs, and down were
reasons. The latest data for the reporting period and
and down production volumes were added on top. The applied.
previous years is always published in the latest report.
total cotton, wool, and down production volumes is thus • The latest figures for the number of certified sites per
higher than the volumes reported by ICAC, IWTO, and Maia Key revisions from the 2021 to 2022 report standard were applied, including updates for previous
Research. years.
The following methodological changes were applied in the
Recycled manmade fibers: The total synthetic fiber 2022 version: This means that the following data reported in the 2022
production volumes reported by Maia Research, CIRFS, report slightly differ compared to previous versions:
IVC, in contrast, include the recycled share. Recycled • Abrapa was replaced with ABR for all years.
manmade cellulosic fibers are also assumed to be included • Cleaner Cotton program was discontinued in March • global fiber production volumes.
in the total manmade cellulosic fiber production as 2020 and thus excluded from 2020/21 onwards. • preferred cotton production volumes.
reported by Maia Research, CIRFS, and IVC. • CmiA total cotton data for 2013/14 and 2014/15 were • global plant-based fiber production volumes.
updated. • global synthetics (incl. recycled polyester), MMCFs, and
2. Program specific data
• Field to Market continues to be used as a tool but the down production volumes.
The program specific data such as the number of certified decision was made to discontinue measuring Field to • number of certified sites for several standards.
sites per standard or production volumes are based on Market separatly. The overwhelming majority of cotton
information collected from the programs and initiatives. using Field to Market's Fieldprint Platform to measure
In selected cases, the estimates are based on publicly and analyze environmental performance on the field is
available information (e.g. FSC/PEFC-certified MMCFs). also enrolled in the USCTP, as Field to Market enrollment
CONTENTS Methodology & Disclaimer PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 110
Report scope: Beyond apparel
Fiber and materials are used for a broad range of Around 60-80% of down and feathers are used for home Global Fibers
applications. This report covers the overall fiber and textiles such as bedding and pillows. A smaller percentage
materials production independent of their usages. The is used for apparel. Cotton*
fibers and materials may be used for apparel, home Jute
textiles, technical textiles, or any other application. Around 30-60% of polyester fibers are used for apparel, Coir
20-35% are used for home textiles, and the remaining part Linen/flax**
Textile Exchange has conducted a desk research and for various other applications. Sisal
stakeholder consultation to estimate the percentages Ramie
of the global fiber and materials volumes by application. Polyamide fibers are used in various applications. The Hemp
While solid figures do not exist on a global level, the percentage estimates range widely from less than 10% to Kapok
more than 50% of the global polyamide fiber production Abaca
graphic on the right side is meant to visualize the rough
average percentage estimates by application for the being used for apparel. A significant share of polyamide
Wool
different fibers and materials. The main purpose of the fibers is used for home textiles such as carpets as well as
Cashmere
graph is to show that the percentages used for apparel technical and industrial applications. Mohair
vary by fiber and material and that only parts of all fibers Alpaca
Manmade cellulosics such as viscose, lyocell, modal, and
and materials produced and covered in this report are used Down & Feathers
cupro are mainly used for apparel with around 50-80% Silk
by the apparel and home textile industry.
of their production. An exception is acetate fibers, used
primarily for cigarette filters, and only a small percentage Viscose
Please note that the percentages keep changing over time Lyocell
and that huge regional differences exist as well. (about 5%) is used for apparel.
Modal
Leather is mainly used for footwear with around 40-50% Acetate
Cotton is mainly used for apparel accounting for around
Cupro
60-70% of the total cotton fiber production. Around 20- of its production. Around 5-10% are used for apparel,
30% of all cotton is used for home textiles, and about 10% 10-15% for home textiles, and the remaining part for other Polyester
for other products. applications such as leather goods (bags), the automotive Polyamide (Nylon)
industry or other products. Polypropylene
Wool is also mainly used for apparel accounting for around Acrylic
60-70% of the total sheep wool. Approximately 30-40% of Natural rubber is mainly used for tires with around 65- Elastane (Spandex)
all sheep wool is used for home textiles and the remaining 70% of its production. Only a small percentage is used for
apparel. Leather
part for other applications.
Natural Rubber
CONTENTS Methodology & Disclaimer PREFERRED FIBER & MATERIALS MARKET REPORT 111
Acknowledgements
• Sophia Opperskalski
• Amy Franz
• Andrea Patanè
• SuetYin Siew
• Evonne Tan
Photo: SFI