Following are major Equipment and material required for flower

arrangement: -
 1. Mechanics

 2. Equipment

 3. Containers

 4. Bases

 5. Accessories

 6. Plant material

 7. Support

MECHANICS
These are items used to keep flowers, foliage, and stems in place within the container.
Mechanics must be fixed securely and should be hidden from view.
Examples – florists’ foam (oasis), pin holders (Japanese term – kenzan), chicken wire,
prong, adhesive clay and tape, florist cone.
 Floral foam, also called oasis, is a cellular plastic material, available in two
types – green foam and brown/grey foam.
 Pin-holders also called kenzan or needle-point holders, is a series of sharply
pointed pins are firmly held in a solid lead base, to hold thick and heavy stems
securely by impaling them on the pins.
 Chicken wire, also called ‘wire mesh’ or ‘wire netting’, is a fine- gauge wire
used to cover floral foam blocks in large displays.
 Prong is the simplest type of floral foam anchor. It is a small plastic disc with
four vertical prongs. The base of the prong is attached to the container with
adhesive clay and the floral foam is pressed down onto the prongs.
 Florist’s cone also called a ‘flower tube’ or ‘flower funnel’. It acts like a
miniature vase. It is used in large arrangements, where foliage or flowers need
to be placed above their stem height.
EQUIPMENT
This includes tools used to ensure that a satisfactory arrangement of plant material is
created within the container. Examples – bucket, scissors, knife, watering can,
mister, wire cutter, cocktail sticks, turn, wire, floral tape, candle holder, cut
flower preservatives, and secateurs.
 Mister is a hand-held spray bottle to produce a fine mist of water droplets to
keep an arrangement look fresh in warm weather.
 Secateurs are used to cut through thick and woody stems.
 Cocktail sticks or a toothpick is used to make holes in florists’ foam for a soft
stem of a flower.

 Cut-flower preservatives is a bactericide, available in powder or liquid form,

to prevent slime and smell from developing in the vase water, plus sugar to
prolong the life of fresh flowers. A preservative can be made in-house by adding
3 teaspoons of sugar and 1 drop of bleach to half a litre of water.
CONTAINERS
These are receptacles that hold the flower arrangement. They may or may not be
hidden by the plant material. The container must be waterproof and neutral colours
such as soft grey, dull brown, offwhite, or earth colours are most suitable because they
are inconspicuous and do not detract attention from flowers displayed. Theme and
simplicity should be kept in mind while choosing the design of the container. Example –
vases and jugs, basket, bowls and trays, wreath frame etc.
BASES
An object that is placed underneath the container to protect the surface of the support
and/or to add to the beauty of the display is called a base. Example – table mat, tree
section, wood base, stone base, and oriental base.
SUPPORT
This refers to the structure on which the container stands. Example – tables,
sideboards, alcoves, and shelves.
PLANT MATERIALS
These can be divided into 3 basic types
a) Flowers ( dominant/ focal/ point material) – This consists of bold flowers or
clusters of small showy blooms. The dominant material provides a centre of
interest. Example – Gerbera, Chrysanthemum, lilies, Anthurium, Tulips, Poppies,
Roses, Dahlias, and Daffodils.
b) Fillers ( secondary material) – This consists of smaller flowers and all sorts of
leaves and foliage that are used to cover the mechanics and edges of the container and
also provide added interest and colour to the display. Example – Asters, Ivy, Button
Chrysanthemum, Carnations, Gypsophila (Baby’s breath), Limonium and Marguerites.
c) Foliages ( line material ) – This consists of tall stems, flowering spikes, or bold
leaves that are used to create the basic framework or skeleton. This lining material may
be straight or curved and it sets the height and width of the finished
arrangement. Examples – Gladioli, birds of paradise, goldenrods, larkspur, asparagus
ferns, palms, tuberoses, and Peruvian lilies.
ACCESSORIES
These are non-plant materials included in or placed alongside the arrangement.Their
purpose is generally decorative but could be functional at times. Accessories are added
to the design for extra interest or to ‘stretch’ the flowers when they are in short
supply. Example – miniature dolls, hats, ribbons, beads, painted wire, wooden fruit
shapes, silk flowers and foliage, candles, driftwood, shells, idols, interesting pebbles
etc.
Quiz for flower arrangement:
Enumeration
1. It is called oasis, is a cellular plastic material, available in two types – green
foam and brown/grey foam.
2. It is also called kenzan or needle-point holders, is a series of sharply pointed
pins are firmly held in a solid lead base, to hold thick and heavy stems securely
by impaling them on the pins.
3. It is also called ‘wire mesh’ or ‘wire netting’, is a fine- gauge wire used to
cover floral foam blocks in large displays.
4. it is the simplest type of floral foam anchor. It is a small plastic disc with four
vertical prongs. The base of the prong is attached to the container with adhesive
clay and the floral foam is pressed down onto the prongs.
5. also called a ‘flower tube’ or ‘flower funnel’. It acts like a miniature vase. It is
used in large arrangements, where foliage or flowers need to be placed above
their stem height.
6. For 6-12 item right the seven types of equipment and materials required for
flower arrangement.
10 Basic Stitches You Should Know
Posted at 09:23h in Sewing Tutorials by TheInspiredSewist

Having a complete sewing kit is great, but for the beginner sewist, that kit is
rendered useless until you know how to sew. But don’t worry, it’s not difficult to
learn the basic stitches and when to use them.
By the end of this article, you will understand how to do ten basic stitches both by
hand and on a machine. Let’s get you sewing!
Beginner Tip: Always remember to tie a knot at the end of your thread before you
start stitching
1. The Running Stitch
This stitch is the most basic of all the hand sewing stitches and if you have any
experience with sewing at all, you likely already know how to perform this stitch.
It’s a great stitch to know for quickly mending clothing.
1. Start by taking your threaded needle through the back of the fabric (the
wrong side)
2. Once the knot at the end of the thread has hit the fabric, make a stitch by
putting the needle back down in the fabric about a centimeter away in the
direction you want to stitch and pulling all the way through
3. Bring the thread back up through the fabric and repeat

2. The Basting Stitch

This stitch is just the running stitch but longer. Instead of making your stitches a
centimeter apart, make them ¼ inch to ½ inch apart from each other.
The basting stitch will go even faster than the running stitch once you get into a
flow.

3. The Cross Stitch (Catch Stitch)

You’ve probably have heard of cross-stitching before. Cross-stitching is suitable
for finishing hems and for designs that are front-facing. This stitch is slightly more
nuanced than the running or basting stitches, but it’s simple once you get the
hang of it.
All you’re doing with a cross stitch is making X’s in the fabric:
1. Pull the thread up through the back of the fabric until the knot catches on
the fabric
2. Make a diagonal stitch to the left about a centimeter away
3. Bring the needle up through the back of the fabric, about a centimeter
backward from the where the thread went in last, and a centimeter to the
left of where the last stitch began
4. Make a stitch diagonally across the last stitch, so it makes an X
5. Pull the thread through and repeat.
Make sure you keep these stitches loose and even.
4. The Backstitch
Before the age of sewing machines, this stitch was used to create all clothing.
Layer after layer of back stitches created a pattern of threads that people could
wear. It’s a strong stitch.
1. Start by making a small stitch
2. Insert the needle back into the end of that stitch, where you just pulled the
thread out
3. Make another stitch and repeat.
These stitches should look like they’re overlapping.

5. The Slip Stitch

This stitch is useful when you’re trying to sew hems so that you can’t see
stitches. It’s good for patchwork.
1. This stitch is meant to be through the fold of fabric. Even if you’re just
working with one fabric, you can fold the bottom of the fabric up
underneath
2. Pin your hem to make sure you sew in a straight line
3. Bring the needle through the fold of the hem and then up through the top
crease of the fabric
4. Pull the needle through just a few threads at the same point, but don’t pull
the needle all the way through the fabric like you would with the other
stitches
5. Pull the needle back into the fold near where you drew it out the first time
staying parallel to the fold
6. Repeat steps one through five.
You’ll want your stitches to be about a ½ inch apart and loose.
6. The Blanket Stitch (Buttonhole Stitch)
This stitch, as you may have been able to gather from its name, is useful for
finishing the edges of blankets or for creating buttonholes.
1. Push the needle in from the back of the fabric and pull all the way through
2. Rather than bringing the needle right through the front like you would do
with the other stitches, bring the needle through the back of the fabric
again
3. You’ll have created a loop by pulling the needle through the back of the
fabric twice. Pull the needle right through the loop
4. Repeat steps one through three, keeping stitches about a centimeter apart
if you’re working on a blanket.
7. The Standard Forward/Backward Stitch
When you’re ready to move off of the hand stitching and onto sewing machine
stitching, this is the first stitch you need to know.
1. Start by straight stitching ⅛ to ⅜ inch away from the edge of the fabric
2. Backstitch the forward stitch over the pinned seam
3. Do step two in reverse
4. Repeat steps one through three

8. The Zigzag Stitch

Most sewing machines will have a zigzag stitch option. You won’t need to go
over the fabric multiple times with this stitch as it’s solid and will keep seams from
fraying. It’s also a great stitch for making buttonholes.
1. Set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch
2. Adjust the machine to get the width and length of the stitch you desire
3. Press the pedal slightly so the device works slowly and guide the fabric as
it works
4. Sew to the end of the fabric without stitching over the same place twice
9. Blind Hem Stitch
This stitch is mainly a mix of straight stitches and zigzag stitches. It’s perfect for
hemming and mending, especially because it’s nearly invisible. The purpose with
this stitch is to either sew two pieces of fabric together or the fold of one fabric
together.
1. Make two or three straight stitches
2. Make one wide zigzag stitch (cross-stitch)
3. Repeat
10. The Buttonhole Stitch
While the zigzag stitch is good for stitching buttonholes, most sewing machines
have the capability to create buttonholes with a special foot attachment or a pre-
programmed buttonhole setting.
1. Put the buttonhole foot on the machine (if you have one)
2. Measure and mark where your buttonhole will go on the fabric
3. Put the presser foot on one end of the buttonhole
4. Zigzag stitch up (or down, depending on what side of the buttonhole you
started on) to the other end of the buttonhole
5. Zigzag stitch down (or up) to the side of the buttonhole where you started
your stitching
6. Take a seam ripper to open up the area between the stitches, and voila,
you have a buttonhole!
Conclusion
While this list doesn’t contain all the stitches out there, it’s certainly a good
starting point if you’re just beginning to learn how to sew. These are incredibly
useful stitches to know and will get you through most sewing projects.
Quiz
1-10 enumerate the ten types of basic stitches