Cat Coin Purse

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 Cat Coin Purse
You will need:
 4mm & 3.5mm crochet hooks

 A purse clasp—These are available on eBay—you will need to

search for a 9x6.3cm Arch Frame Kiss Clasp. If you have any
problems in sourcing one, then I am happy to provide one
for you for £1.60 plus 90p postage (UK only). Please email
Laura.sutcliffe@hotmail.com

 A main colour of your choice in DK weight yarn—I use

Patons DK Smoothie 100% acrylic in Slate or orange as it has
a lovely shiny finish. A 100g ball of this is 200m long so any
yarn of the same weight would be ok.

 Small amount of white, pink, green and black DK weight

yarn—Again I use Patons DK Smoothie.

 Thread for the whiskers—I use ‘invisible’ nylon thread.

 Matching thread for attaching the pieces to the purse clasp —Any thinner yarn or
embroidery thread would be suitable, but DK weight yarn can be too thick to go
through the holes on the clasp.

 A very small amount of polyester toy stuffing for the cheeks (or you can just use
yarn off-cuts).

 Other tools you will need are a tapestry needle, a needle fine enough to fit
through the holes in the purse clasp and some scissors.

Stitches & Abbreviations used (United States):

 Ch = chain stitch
 St = stitch / stitches
 Sl st = slip stitch
 Sc = single crochet
 Dc = double crochet
 Inc = increase (2 single crochet stitches made into a single stitch)
 Sc2tog = decrease
 FLO = working into the front loop only
 (sc, inc) around = an sc then an inc, repeat this until the round is complete
 [?] = total number of sc stitches you should have in the completed round (not
including any chains)
Pattern Notes:
 Some sections are worked in rows and some sections are worked in rounds—
please check the individual instructions for each section.
 I recommend using a stitch marker to mark the start of each round.
 If you have any questions regarding this pattern, please email
Laura.sutcliffe@hotmail.com and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
 You may sell items that you make from this pattern, but please do not
share or distribute the pattern itself. Thank you.
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Head Section
4mm hook, worked in continuous rounds (do not join).
In your choice of main colour, make 2 pieces.
Round # Details Total # of
stitches
Round 1 Ch2, sc 6 into 2nd chain from hook (do not join) [6]
You can use the magic ring method if you prefer.
Round 2 Inc around [12]
Round 3 (sc, inc) around [18]
Round 4 (sc 2, inc) around [24]
Round 5 (sc 3, inc) around [30]

Round 6 (sc 4, inc) around [36]

Round 7 (sc 5, inc) around [42]
Round 8 (sc 6, inc) around [48]
Round 9 (sc 7, inc) around [54]
Round 10 (sc 8, inc) around [60]
Sl st into next stitch, FO and weave in ends.

Please note - when I make this piece it measures

9.2cm in diameter.
Your pieces do not have to be exactly this size,
since the clasp allows for a degree of variation.
This is just for guidance!
Round 10 complete Completed face stripe

Face Stripe
In white, make 1 piece. 4mm hook.
This section is worked in rows (not rounds)
Row # Details Total # of
stitches

Row 1 Ch 5, sc into 2nd chain from hook and the following 3 stitches, turn, ch1. [4]
Row 2 Sc 4, turn, ch 1 [4]

Row 3 Sc, sc2tog, sc, turn, ch 1 [3]

Row 4 Sc 3, turn, ch 1 [3]

Row 5 Sc 3, turn, ch 1 [3]
Row 6 Sc2tog, sc, turn, ch 1 [2]
Row 7 Sc 2, turn, ch 1 [2]
Row 8 Sc2tog, ch 1
Now sc around the outside edge, making 1 sc in the end of each row and
3 sc in each corner. Join with a sl st and FO leaving a tail for later assembly.
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Ears
In your choice of main colour, make 2 pieces. 4mm hook.
This section is worked in continuous rounds (do not join).
Round # Details Total # of
stitches
Round 1 Ch2, sc 4 into 2nd chain from hook (do not join) [4]
You can use the magic ring method if you prefer.
Round 2 (Inc, sc) around [6]
Round 3 (Inc, sc 2) around [8]
Round 4 Sc around [8]
Round 5 (Inc, sc 3) around [10]

Round 6 (Inc, sc 4) around [12]

Round 7 (Inc, sc 5) around [14]
Squash the ear flat and working through both layers (see photo)
sc across. FO leaving a tail for later assembly.

After round 7, squash flat and Completed ear Completed bottom lip
work through both layers

Bottom Lip
In white, make 1 piece. 4mm hook.
This section is worked in joined rounds.

Row # Details Total # of

stitches
Round 1 Ch4, make 2 sc into the 2nd chain from hook, sc, inc in the last [10]
Continue working around the other side of the chain - inc, sc, inc
Join with a sl st, ch 1
Round 2 Starting in the same st that you just joined into, sc around, join with a sl st [10]

FO leaving a tail for later assembly.

4
Cheeks
In white, make 2 pieces. 4mm hook.
This section is worked in continuous rounds (do not join).
Round # Details Total # of
stitches
Round 1 Ch2, sc 6 into 2nd chain from hook (do not join) [6]
You can use the magic ring method if you prefer.
Round 2 (Inc) around [12]
Round 3 (Inc, sc) around [18]
Round 4 Sc around [18]
Round 5 Sc 8, (Sc2tog) x5 [13]

FO leaving a tail for later assembly.

Completed cheek Eye after completing round 3 Add pupil detail as shown

Eyes
Start in green, make 2 pieces. 3.5mm hook.
This section is worked in joined rounds.
Row # Details Total # of
stitches
Round 1 Ch2, sc 6 into 2nd chain from hook, join with a sl st, ch 1 [6]
You can use the magic ring method if you prefer.
Round 2 Starting in the same st that you just joined into (sc, inc) x3, join with a sl st, [9]
change to black as you ch1
Round 3 Now working in black, again starting in the same st that you just joined
into, (sl st) x4, work a sc, dc, and sc all into the next st, (sl st) x4, work a sc,
dc and sc all into the next st, join with a sl st
FO leaving a tail for later assembly.
Using the black tail, work a few stitches for the cats pupil - I make a line
starting from above round 1, over the central point and down to below the
bottom of round 1 (see photo).
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Nose
In light pink, make 1 piece. 4mm hook.
This section is worked in rows.
Round # Details Total # of
stitches
Row 1 Ch4, sc into 2nd chain from hook and the following 2 stitches, turn, [3]
ch1.
Row 2 Skip 1st st, sc 2, turn, ch 1 [2]
Row 3 Skip 1st st, sc, ch 1 [1]
Now sc around the outside edge, making 1 sc in the end of each row
and 2 sc in each corner, join with a sl st, ch 1
Sc2tog around, join with a sl st and FO leaving a tail for assembly

Completed row 3 Completed sc around outer Completed nose

edge

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Assembly
The first step is to attach all of the facial details to
one of the head sections, before then attaching
them to the clasp.

Start by sewing on the face stripe, positioning it as

shown (with the narrow end at the top). Your head
section will be hexagonal so I find it best to work
with a straight edge at the top.

Ensure the stripe is central. The top edge of your

stripe should be placed between rounds 7 and 8,
and the bottom edge of the stripe should then
reach between rounds 6 and 7.
Then attach the bottom lip section directly
underneath the base of the face stripe.

Next, attach your cats cheeks. Ensure that the 5

sc2tog stitches that you did in the final round, are
positioned towards the outside of the face (the
position indicated by the blue lines on the
photograph).

Add a small amount of stuffing to the cheeks

before closing the hole.

You may also wish to sew the two cheek sections

together in the centre so that they sit together
neatly (with no gap).
Now attach the cats nose - again you may wish to
not only join the nose to the head section, but also
stitch it to the cheek pieces so that they stay tightly
together.

Finally, sew on your cats eyes.

I place them so that the inside corner of the eye

touches the nose - ensure that they aren’t too close
to the edge of your piece (leave at least 1 round to
insert into the purse clasp).

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Assembly continued
The next step is to attach the head sections to the
purse clasp.
Using some strong thread or embroidery floss and a
needle (that you have checked is fine enough to
pass through the holes in the purse frame), sew the
first piece onto the purse frame—I simply use a
back-stitch to do this.

This can be trickier than it looks so some tips

for this would be:
 I would recommend marking the stitch in the
top centre of the piece, and then pushing
this stitch into the centre of the purse clasp
to ensure that the face section lies straight.
 You may also find it beneficial to start
 attaching the face piece to the clasp from
this central point, working outwards to the
left and right. This ensures that the face will
lie straight and is attached to the clasp as
evenly as possible.
 Ensure the crocheted piece is pushed up into
the frame well before every stitch and make
the stitches fairly tight as you don't want the
crocheted piece to sag away from the purse
frame.
 Take your time and pull the thread through
gently—the holes in the purse frame can
have sharp edges and can cut the thread if
you pull too hard!
Repeat this process using the remaining head
section on the opposite side of the purse frame.

Now its time to close the open edges that remain -

to do this simply whip stitch around the edges.

Then attach the ears to the back of the head, just

below the purse frame.

Your work should now look something like this…

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Finally, add some whiskers. I use ‘invisible’ nylon thread - simply cut a length of thread, using a needle
feed one end around a stitch in the desired location and then knot the two ends several times to secure
it in place. Repeat this a couple of times on each cheek. Trim to length.

Congratulations your cat coin purse is now finished! I hope you have enjoyed making it but if you have
any questions or comments then please email me at Laura.sutcliffe@hotmail.com.

I would love to see a photo of how you got on :-)