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CITY MAKING: NAVIGATING OUR BUILT ENVIRONMENT

TERM PAPER
HERITAGE AND URBAN DEVELOPMENT IN JAIPUR
Submitted By: Tanveera (M23090)
INTRODUCTION
Jaipur is a vibrant mix of pink hue, architecture, rich heritage past and uniform façade that is
constantly changing with time. The Walled City of Jaipur was declared a United Nations
Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization [UNESCO] World Heritage site in 2019.
Jaipur carries the tag of India’s First Planned city, built on Vastu Shastra’s principles
(Science of Architecture). It also represents the fact that Jaipur’s branding and advertising as
the Pink City is an integral part of its emerging urbanity. The famous ice-cream outlet
Naturals, when it established its business in Jaipur, came with a tagline that “Proud to be as
original as the Pink City”.(“Ice Cream”) To have well-known motifs of the city displayed on
the walls of the outlet that included Camels, Man with a Mustache and Turban with Historical
Monuments in the background was in a very unusual space and distinct branding. It
represents that urbanity includes going ‘local’, and that too was opened in a very upper-
middle-class neighbourhood. There are, however, many parts of the city’s history that the
brand didn’t want to display when it gave a tagline.
This dominant representation of Jaipur in visual forms on media platforms helped create a
unique identity. This identity also carries an alternative urban imaginary that reflects a
different political structure and aspirational urbanity. The Metro Rail Project and Dravyavati
River Project are a part of the Smart City Mission. They both are based on transforming
Jaipur into a modern metropolis that often clashes with heritage preservation. Both projects
aimed to improve places and people as infrastructure. The city’s legacy is built on
‘authenticity’, which has always been the focus of modern conservation and beautification
efforts. It is rightly said that the authenticity in photography might be a duplicate endowed
with an aura rather than being an original, but is a perfect representation of the dominant
princely past still representing the city. (Benjamin)
The urban landscape represents an amalgamation of various powerful interests that create a
spectacle for residents and tourists. The spectacle plays an important role in projecting the
image and authority that governs the city’s spaces. The strategies that form urban modernity
are shifting through infusing the notion of memory and nostalgia into public spaces. The
places are not alienated, and the city feels intimate by preserving heritage. The local
communities who sell in the market appear to be suspended in a slower timeline that hides the
rapid promotion of tourism. The hyper-modern spectacle allows Jaipur elites and buildings to
regain value who are taking benefit of the royal nostalgia market. (Debord) Heritage can
never be contradictory to modernity, which includes urban development and needs to be
perceived as a product or asset to mobilize for contemporary purposes. The future of Jaipur’s
growth is based on heritage sites and architecture. Heritage is chosen to fit the present-day
motives and its usefulness. (Lowenthal) The tag of number first includes a sense of
achievement that nothing of a similar kind has ever happened before. To be able to achieve
first means setting standards and creating paths for other cities to achieve the similar success.
It represents the aspiration for development and modernity. Jaipur has been part of Smart

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City Mission since 2015, indicating the potential for growth and investment. It is a part of the
Golden Triangle tourism circuit Since a smart city does not have a concrete definition and is
open to interpretation. It lays emphasis on developing core infrastructure that improves the
quality of life. The present megacities of India aspire for horizontal and vertical expansion
with a prominent feature of tall glass buildings, but Jaipur is more than that. Jaipur is building
on the glorious past, and it’s not like the boxed structure of a city that is clones of each other.
Jaipur is a Tier II city with a unique form of ‘heritage urbanity’ that is different from other
cities that have urbanization on the same trajectory. People and cities work in conjunction
with each other, therefore creating a symbiotic relationship. It is a two-way process where
infrastructure is shaped by people that transforms it into a neighbourhood community and, in
turn, influences people. It means active citizen engagement is crucial to retain the identity of
the city. Jaipur has various small and big Historical Monuments all around the city.
Traditional and Urban can be blended together. (Kalra)
HERITAGE URBANITY IN JAIPUR
Heritage urbanity means heritage derives from the development and urbanization of spaces.
The focus of old city preservation is based on 'façade control', which is to regulate the face of
the wall, which is the outward visible face of buildings. Lefebvre noted that the façade makes
certain features visible to the public while other aspects remains invisible. Preservation
focuses on controlling the architectural facades, but the urban realities of inequality are
hidden from the public image. The shiny surfaces of high-profile heritage sites consist of
messy urban underbellies of infrastructural gaps. (Swyngedouw et al.) Rajasthan's heritage
tourism and hospitality sector has grown as previous Rajput royals and princes have
reclaimed power. After losing political power, these wealthy families have reintegrated into
capitalist networks using their culture and history. The urbanity navigates between heritage
and promoting modern amenities for residents and capital while retaining its royal character
to attract investment. (Narayanan) Urban planning has always been a part of Jaipur's
tradition. ("Urban Planning")
The purpose of heritage conservation in the context of urban development is a form of
resistance against the homogenized urbanism that is rapidly becoming part of globalization
and modernity in the Global South. (Al Sayyad) It makes the city a unique space different
from standardized entities. The Ford Foundation has played an essential role in providing
funds to restore heritage. The Rajasthan Heritage Development and Management Authority
[RHDMA] has overlapping duties with the Public Works Department [PWD] and the
Department of Archeology and Museums. It has resulted in a lack of coordination among the
different authorities. (Jain and Rohit) As consultants for heritage conservation, the heritage
experts have knowledge and best practices in the field and become part of the government
bodies. The Master Plan of 2025 of the Jaipur Development Authority [JDA] laid emphasis
on the coloured structures all over the city based on older visual patterns with extensive focus
on built-up areas, and no land spaces were left unutilized. They did not focus on improving
the parking facilities in the walled city, which also caused the congestion and traffic.
Therefore, heritage is a form of knowledge that is shaped by the funds, policies, and local
governance that produce the face of the city. (Morya) It is important to understand that the
beautification of the city's urban space is linked with the development of 'world-class cities'
that close the link between infrastructural development and aesthetics. The world-class city is
more of a mental image that includes a material process of speculation to attract investment

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and fix the city. (Ghertner) Therefore, the Jaipur Municipal Corporation inaugurated
'Operation Pink', a project that makes the urban space of Jaipur desirable by removing
encroachments. Therefore, the visual identification of beautiful and ugly becomes a part of
governing urban space. (Jaipur Municipal Corporation) The beautification of the city through
art on the flyovers, underpasses, or the metro underground by creating museums creates
resistance in individuals to not being absorbed in the daily activities of the utilitarian world.
The various projects like Dravyavati or Metro become the spectator and speculator projects in
the form of tourists and investors. It helps in giving the city a platform and forming a
relationship between the making of the city and the citizen, both of which are governed by
aesthetic forms of government. (Boyer)
ASPIRATIONAL URBANITY OF PEOPLE
Tikam Chand is a street photographer who clicks pictures using a vintage box camera in front
of Hawa Mahal. He provides tourists and locals with the opportunity to experience history in
real-time and preserve their memories. It might look old in today’s digital age, but it was
considered modern at that time. The camera is repaired and mended a hundred times due to a
complex mechanism that helps in producing iconic black-and-white pictures. The unique part
is that the camera has a UPI QR Code used by the tourist to pay the photographer. (“This
Photographer”) The camera makes a different attraction at weddings since it brings vintage
charm to the moments. The urban spaces of the city can be viewed as ‘sentimental capitalism’
that used historical narrative towards development and revitalized the rundown area and
restored it to its former glory. They form a creative economy that is based on the value of the
old city. (Da Costa)
Historically, the rulers of Jaipur knew the value of modernizing the state. They associated
tolerance with each other as a part of economic prosperity. However, lately, this has not been
part of the cultural value of people. The hidden heritage is the process of giving value to
buildings and people that were previously hidden or not seen in Jaipur's heritage-based
development schemes; it includes the excavated structures during the metro project and the
recreation of the lost river 'Dravyavati'. These events have brought long-forgotten histories
into the public sphere, linked together by various water conduits and legends around the city.
A theme that runs through both of these cases is the manner in which they are justified in the
common language of "development" and "heritage." This has given the newly found urban
pasts a certain kind of order. (Meena) The cities of the Global South are full of aspirations to
become 'world-class', and the physical infrastructure increases this image. The creation of the
metro and Dravyavati River is certainly the reflection of this aspiration. All of these
constructions have a similar characteristic of mobility or unrestricted movement, which
places cities on a rapid trajectory of development. (Shastri) The 'new' in Indian Urbanism in
the connection to 'smart cities' of tier II growth going into the trajectory of urban growth.
Jaipur, which is a new location, is anticipated to attract foreign investment and serve as an
incubator for the middle class in India. (Nair) The regional aspiration of people living in a
city has been overwhelmed by the new global horizons. It's not only an aspiration for a better
quality of life but also includes the essence of local 'apnapan' belongingness that comes from
culture and heritage. The fact that the metro and Dravyavati are part of the city itself
represents the 'splinter urbanism' that makes few spaces of the city powerful and creates a
chain of networks that helps to see the city evolve. It divides the city into massive cellular
clusters of landscaped buildings. To make the aspiration a reality, the city gets the investment

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that initially divided the place, which leads to ambitious and fragmented growth. It would
seem that impersonal knowledge and technological competence, which are supposedly more
important than political discourse and local inhabitations of place, form the basis of these
neoliberal geographies. (Graham)
JAIPUR METRO RAIL CORPORATION (JMRC) AND DRAVYAVATI RIVER
REJUVENATION PROJECT A NEW URBAN IMAGINARIES
The Jaipur Metro Rail Line1 Phase B Project included the construction of tunnels that passed
through in close proximity to five Historical Monuments, including Jantar Mantar, Chandpole
Gate, Isar Lat, Hawa Mahal, Chhoti Chaupar and Badi Chaupar. The idea was to decongest
the city, open up parking spaces and create paths for pedestrians. The Underground Metro
Rail within Walled City created a significant issue with respect to the vibrations of the
Tunnel Boring Machines impacting the heritage structure above ground during the
construction stage. The Historical Architecture developed cracks were not thoroughly
monitored throughout the process. During the reporting period of Environmental Monitoring,
the instrumentation and vibration monitoring were not carried out by the JMRC Heritage and
Structural experts, which was a private firm. After the tunnelling process was completed for
the underground metro rail project, the instrumentation monitoring was not carried out.
Without continued monitoring, structural issues that develop over time can go undetected.
(“Jaipur Metro Rail Corporation Report” 2022) It could lead to greater damage, and timely
repairs are crucial. The authorities are responsible for periodic checks even after the
construction so that new issues do not arise. The authorities stopped monitoring prematurely,
the risk of missing the long-term issue regarding the heritage monuments. Also, the important
baseline data gets lost when the authorities stop instrumentation and monitoring. Because
heritage monument issues come up since they are easily prone to develop cracks, then,
compared to continued monitoring can help determine the cause. Therefore, without the
benchmark data, the problem will become difficult to diagnose. There is a requirement for
increased preservation efforts by the authorities. The duty of care and due diligence is
required to protect the historically significant structures. The resources should be spent on
permanent oversight. Prioritizing preservation is always an ongoing process and not just
during the active construction of the metro. (Stovel) The Completion Project Report rated it
as less than effective and mentioned that monitoring the heritage structures was never part of
the initial project planning, with the projected ridership of the passengers being
overestimated. It was estimated to be around 126,000, but the actual ridership will be 33,000
till 2022. The project is not considered financially sustainable, and it is difficult to cover
operation and maintenance costs to repay the loan. It means it will affect the future
maintenance of the historical monuments because it is not considered successful. (Asian
Development Bank 2022)
The Smart City mission didn’t address the primary issue, which was encroachment and
failure to manage traffic. (Hindustan Times) The reason the project is not considered
successful is because the public transport networks that is Bus, Autos Taxis, etc, to take
people to the Metro Station are ineffective. The last-mile connectivity requires significant
improvement, which was never part of the metro project. (Asian Development Bank 2023)
The need for the metro was not to improve the functionality or mobility in the city but to
advertise the modernizing aspect of urban development and to repackage a ‘world-class’
infrastructure, creating new imaginaries of space. (Sadana)

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In other areas, the historical verandah pillars got tilted in various shop areas. Two ancient
water tanks were discovered during the excavation project, and old canals in Badi Chaupar
(Large Public Square) and Choti Chaupar (Small Public Square) were where unearthed
structures were found. It led to a debate between the JMRC, Local media, residents and
conservationists. It took the political shape over the name and significance of these structures.
It opened the discussion of the urban form of Jaipur that includes water and a planned
drainage system. It required to be restored to its original condition. The authorities have not
been able to take care of restoration activities in a proper manner, which is also a part of
Heritage conservation. The monitoring of the heritage structures was not proposed during the
project planning and was added during the construction when important historical artefacts
were found. The continued supervision and assessment is an integral part of heritage value. It
shows the lack of priority of the government, who want to create a tourism hub. Lack of
monitoring by the government represents an incompatible priority between rapid
infrastructure development and heritage preservation. (Asian Development Bank 2023) The
idea that place matters when we are developing urban thought and the everyday realities of
place is very different and that too constantly changing. If a hole is there on the tarpaulin
sheet, then to cover it up is to repair and not buy a new one. Precisely, the historical
monuments need repair, and for that, identifying that patch is a crucial part of it, which
requires constant checks. This constant check can be done when the stakeholders include not
only the government but the residents together, which can prove to be efficient. The true
‘Southernness’ is not to fix the historical monument or to make it better but to make it stay in
place for a while longer or to maintain its status as it is. It leaves the complex reality of the
government's serious intervention in preserving the heritage. There is always a space in
southern urban theory to have words added to the vocabulary. (Bhan)
The planners deliberately chose Metro to be underground within the walled city, which is
more than aesthetics, but the main idea was to preserve the wide and regular streets, visual
symmetry with homogeneity in design that was designed for all types of processional
celebrations to continue the Rajasthani culture and tradition. The various processions include
the Teej Festival, which celebrates monsoons, royal weddings, and funerals and is part of the
city's tourism brochures. The homogenous appearance of the main broad streets was a part of
the planned city. Multiple communities, including Jains, Rajput, Sikhs and Muslims, form
part of the Baazar [Market]. (Asher) The fact that the Royal Family of Jaipur didn’t protest
about changing the shape of [Choti Chaupar] large public square to a circle and not protesting
states about the politics of civil society. Chatterjee’s work of political society where not every
group is able to pressure the government to fulfil their demands. The People’s Welfare
Association included the Temple worshippers, workers of various Haveli, Shopkeepers and
Street Vendors like flower vendors, roadside silversmiths, grain sellers, etc. The state didn’t
recognize them as having a legitimate association with legitimate objectives. They formed a
collective association to protest against government construction work for the metro rail
project since their livelihood, residence, and faith will be affected. The compensation cannot
secure a future, and some demand to have places to conduct their business. The shopkeepers
were allotted land which was away from the tourist hub. The bureaucratic delay and
overlapping jurisdiction made the situation worse since JMRC was not responsible for
repairing the shop cracks, and the responsibility to the Municipal Corporation, which also
forms a part of the heritage, got reconfigured due to economic rationale. The selective
diplomacy of the Royal Family, who are Rajputs, is the civil society that didn’t protest since

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the rapid development would bring business to them. The government demolished the
Rajmahal Palace, which is a property of the royal family, on the account of a court order. The
royal family protested against it and was successful. However, the royal family didn’t protest
the metro construction in the walled city that destroyed the old formations of canals, streets
and public squares since their revenue was not directly affected by it. The merchant elite of
the market also didn’t protest because the Metro would help diversify their wealth in the neo-
liberal economy. The public interest of the city is constantly changing in the name of
conserving heritage, which also signifies that the rights of the city through ownership of
symbolic infrastructure for which they protest are different for different groups that form the
urban space. For civil society, the rights to the city were in terms of rights to the property
they owned and were not under the control of the archaeology department. (Zubrzycki)
Recreating the Dravyavati River Project has been a challenge since 2015. Earlier, it used to
be a place for urban waste and illegal encroachments by the developers. It fits together with
the heritage narrative of the unearthing of several water channels within the walled city. The
disputes arose with respect to the development authority’s jurisdiction with the municipal
corporation issue of maintenance and, on the other hand, nearby middle-class- residents. The
project was successfully completed but got polluted again due to the development authority
not clearing the dues to Tata, and maintenance of it cannot be done. (“Dravyawati”) The issue
of Indian cities in the global south by stating that there are limits to planning in the cities
because of a causal relation between the planning machinery and the informalities that arise
with it. It is the state that produces informality for the people and is not created by state
regulations. The increase in urban development due to rapid population growth leaves a
significant gap between the urban land on maps, which is represented and used in real life are
different. It cannot be denied that the Master Plans are required, but they have just become a
counter-script that serves the purpose of distraction. (Roy) Therefore, people and places as
infrastructure that improves the quality of life require constant repair and maintenance and
cannot be left. Sometimes, it requires more care and preservation, and that is heritage. The
speculative urbanism for the metro project failed because the ground infrastructure was not
taken into consideration. The river project didn’t serve its purpose because of government
mismanagement. The city is full of brokers trying to sell something to tourists or natives.
Maybe the government, by attracting investments, is trying to sell aspirational urbanity and
tourist heritage. This is a form of heritage bureaucracy for urban development, creating a sub-
federalism by revaluing heritage property. There is a risk of gentrification soon happening. It
is only time will tell that the neoliberal tourism package and development will only serve the
royals and other elites of the Jaipur and forces to rethink the heritage space. (Dhabhai)
CONCLUSION
Jaipur is marketed and advertised as a tourist hub with hundreds of years of historical legacy.
Jaipur is marketed as a product that needs to be added on, but urban planners don’t consider
this city to be more of a service. Both projects highlight the practice of urban development
that has been part of the city’s tradition since historical times came with the language of
heritage conservation where, in actuality, they created the narrative of keeping it original and
authentic, merely creating a replica of it. The initial idea was to make the city filled with
world-class amenities and conserve heritage. The professionals and authorities became the
excavators of the past. They did not want to think beyond uniform facades to promote
tourism. But somewhere along the line, that narrative got lost since people’s interests

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governed them. Conflicts and interactions are a part of city-making, but the fact that what you
are fighting becomes important. It’s the heritage tag that will bring wealth or heritage
preservation that will help continue to build that wealth. Modern urbanity creates more than a
metro station; it creates a mental map of places and visuals that are associated with the
stations. The city is full of adventure and has so much more to offer than uniform facades.
The lived reality is very different from the people, and sensory urbanism (Chadha) in the
form of touching the historic pink wall and the smell of quicklime with the sound of foil
makers and gem cutters cutting the stones can be heard from a distance. Therefore, urban
development might make cities look the same in the form of amenities, but they feel, touch
and smell very differently. The tourist and natives in a sense ‘ghoomna’ loitering around the
places always stumble upon something unique that makes a person feel lively. A lot of
different lives engage within the city. They protest since they fear the unknown and have
their own interest but know that gradual urban development will help secure their future, who
rely on the historical past. Only the natives know the secret to the city and that is no one gets
lost in this city irrespective of the wrong lanes and alleys a person takes. Because there will
always be a way out from those places to get rid of traffic or extreme heat. Since a walled city
consists of many layers of inner walls that look like a maze, it actually opens up new
opportunities to find the path.
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The inside of Naturals Ice Cream Parlour situated at Sardar Patel Marg, Jaipur has a wall art.
(info about companies)

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Yes, it’s possible to have urban to have culture included in it making a unique case for Global
South. (Images)

Tikam Chand’s employee with the Box Camera and QR Code for payment (Instagram @The
Old Photography)

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