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Build a Great Bass (ie Viola-Range) Recorder for ~$40

by sngai on October 29, 2013

Table of Contents

Build a Great Bass (ie Viola-Range) Recorder for ~$40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: Build a Great Bass (ie Viola-Range) Recorder for ~$40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: Prepare the body tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 2: Mark and drill toneholes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 3: Cut key segments 2, 3, and 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 4: Prepare keys 2, 3, and 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 5: Prepare key 1 and 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 6: Mount key assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 7: Your great bass recorder is complete! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

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Intro: Build a Great Bass (ie Viola-Range) Recorder for ~$40
In the recorder family, the great bass recorder has a range starting at the C below middle C (that is, the viola range). Instruments in this range provide much-needed bass
support for wind ensembles.

Because the recorder's size necessitates keywork, which must be made precisely, commercial great bass recorders sell for $1000 - $2000. Now you can create your own
for about $40.

Note: the prototype in this video reflects an earlier revision of hole placement. The revision in this Instructable features better tuning.

Materials:
- 1.5" nominal PVC pipe (e.g. from Home Depot for $5 per 10' length)
- 2" nominal PVC pipe (for the key segments)
- Several 3D-printed parts (for fipple and key mechanisms; see https://www.shapeways.com/designer/ssngai)
- 2mm craft foam (for key pads)
- 3/16" wood dowel (from Home Depot)
- Several size 16 standard rubber bands (a very common size)
- Tacky glue (e.g. Aleene's Original Tacky Glue)
- Hot glue

Tools:
- Free online electronic tuner (http://www.seventhstring.com/tuner/tuner.html)
- 3/8" drill bit (I use an Irwin Speedbor spade bit intended for wood--yes, wood.)
- Small round file (for insides of holes)
- Flat file (for surfaces)
- Tape measure
- Calipers (optional)
- Masking tape
- Hacksaw

Note: For updates and improvements, and also to learn of other alternatives for various steps, please contact author.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Great-Bass-ie-Viola-Range-Recorder-for-40/
Step 1: Prepare the body tube
Cut pipe to 48.25".
If you do not cut the pipe squarely (perpendicularly), the fipple piece may not fit, or there will be some uncertainty as to the proper location to drill the toneholes.
Obviously, you can use the pre-cut side of the 10' length. Use the better-cut side for the bottom (bell).

Mount the endcap fipple with tape and blow.

Confirm that the pipe plays within a few cents of 130.81 Hz.
Don't glue the fipple down yet. You will need to remove it during drilling and mount it again at the end.
The best orientation is rotated 90 degrees right of centerline. In my opinion, that makes for the most comfortable playing position, which is illustrated in the video.

Step 2: Mark and drill toneholes

Identify the line you want to be the front (centerline).
Often the PVC pipe will have a line of printing. You probably want this side to face you.
Orient the diametrically opposite side to be the front.

Measuring from the bottom of the pipe, mark and drill the following 3/8" toneholes:
260mm: 90° right of centerline
390mm: 40° left
455mm: 10° left
540mm: 40° left
645mm: 40° right
715mm: 10° right
795mm: 40° right

(Tonehole positions are determined by a combination of complicated mathematical algorithms... plus some good old-fashioned error compensation by estimation.)

Using the round file, clear the burrs from within the holes.
Also file lightly over the tops to eliminate burrs that would keep the keys from seating properly. But don't file too aggressively -- you don't want to distort the round profile
the key is designed to seat against.

From here on out, it's all about the keys.

It is crucial that the keys seal their holes perfectly, or else the instrument will play poorly.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Great-Bass-ie-Viola-Range-Recorder-for-40/
Step 3: Cut key segments 2, 3, and 4
Cut a 3" length of 2" PVC pipe and split it into three 120° segments.
Make both longitudinal cuts and transverse cuts as straight as possible! This will make future steps easier.
For better control of the cutting process, you may find it easier to cut the three segments partially before making the 3" cut.

(Why are we using a 2" pipe? A lucky coincidence: it so happens that the inner radius of 2" pipe and the outer radius of 1.5" pipe are discrepant almost exactly by the
thickness (2mm) of a craft foam keypad. So rather than 3D-printing all five of our keys, we save some money.)

Step 4: Prepare keys 2, 3, and 4

Get spare segment of 1.5" pipe as a gluing template (like a dowel or mandrel).
Very carefully pencil in longitudinal marks. You will use these as a reference for aligning the hinge pieces.
If these lines are significantly off, and your hinge pieces are off, the hinge won't swing correctly, and your recorder won't speak properly.
Any text that is printed on the pipe may help you draw the longitudinal lines. Keep in mind that not all letters in text rise to the same height! To create the illusion that all
letters are the same height, round letters often protrude a tiny bit higher (unless you are a typographer, you probably didn't know that!).

Cut a rectangle of craft foam measuring 2.75" x 1.25".

You may be tempted to think that increasing the 1.25" measurement may improve key sealing, but it won't.

Find the flatter (better) edge of your 2" pipe segment. Glue rectangle into inside of 2" pipe segment, applying it close to that side.
You can move the foam a few times from side to side to even out the glue and work out any excess.

Place just-glued assembly on 1.5" pipe as template and weight down with a few heavy books.

Allow 3-4 hours to dry.

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Align and glue 3-D printed hinge pins toward the flatter side, where you recently glued the foam.
The hinge pieces are custom-designed for this application -- 2" PVC on 1.5" PVC.
Using the line you drew earlier, make sure the two hinge pieces line up, or the hinge will not operate correctly!
Use tacky glue to temporarily hold the hinge pins in place before hot gluing them down.

Repeat for all three segments.

If this is your first time, you might want to do just one first to make sure you don't screw up all three at once.

Step 5: Prepare key 1 and 5

Key 1, the highest key, and Key 5, the lowest key, are 3-D printed. Refer to the diagram.

Cut a rectangle of craft foam measuring 1" x 1.25".

Using same process as above, apply the craft foam to the 3-D printed keys. Let dry.

For Key 5, install wood dowel to connect proximal and distal key segments.
Measure proper length of wood dowel by laying parts out against the main tube.
The fit is designed to be tight. A small amount of sanding may be necessary.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Great-Bass-ie-Viola-Range-Recorder-for-40/
Step 6: Mount key assemblies
Mount key assemblies 2, 3, and 4.
Use the diagram as a reference.
Hole the key assembly snugly in its final place on the main tube.
Apply tacky glue to the hinge wings and slip the wings in. The wings should be a perfect height to accept the hinge pins.
Fix in place with hot glue.

For keys 1 and 5, use the supplied hinge pin guide pieces in similar fashion.

Install rubber bands and key travel limits.

I have specifically chosen rubber bands over springs because they are more cheaper and plentiful than springs.
Moreover, their movement is easier to control; elastics pull back reliably along their axis, whereas compressed springs often push back off-axis.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Great-Bass-ie-Viola-Range-Recorder-for-40/
Step 7: Your great bass recorder is complete!
Fingering (preliminary):
Top --> bottom
xxxxxxx=C
xxxxxxo=D
xxxxxoo=E
xxxxoxo=F
xxxoooo=G
xxooooo=A
xoooooo=B
oxooooo=C
o o o o o o o = C#
xxxxxxo=D
xxxxxoo=E
xxxxooo=F

Accidentals produced by cross-fingering.

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Great-Bass-ie-Viola-Range-Recorder-for-40/
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