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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Japanese-Plane/
Author:Wood Review www.woodreview.com.au
Australian Wood Review is Australia’s premier woodworking and woodcraft magazine. It is a high quality magazine for woodworkers that focuses on fine
furniture making, woodturning, carving, timbers, tools and machinery. Australian Wood Review covers everything the recreational and professional
woodworker needs to know to help them create beautiful and inspired works from wood.
The first step is to select a piece of suitable timber: hard and close-grained. Any number of native species fit the bill, to say nothing of the traditional beech, rosewood or
ebony.
This marks the rear of the slot for the blade and wedge. Now mark the front of the slot, 24mm forward of here. From there mark down the sides at 60º for the position of
the front of the wedge. Mark out the front of the mouth and the escapement and the chamfer around it. Final adjustment of the shape will come later.
Now for the slot for the blade and wedge. The shaft of the blade is 6mm wide. To allow for lateral movement of the blade, the slot can be 8mm (5/16”) wide. Mark this on
the top of the body with a mortise gauge. Then mark the cut-out at the back of the body, and a curve (about 22–25mm diameter) at the front for the round-over of the top
of the plane. You can continue marking the round-over along the sides to just behind the blade.
To begin the slot for blade and wedge, mount the body in a drill press vice and align the frog line on the side with a ½” or 6.5mm drill bit, preferably a forstner or brad
point bit. Place a square on the drill table to check.
Now drill through to the escapement. You will find that the bit may slide down a little before fully engaging in the timber. Lower the body 10° to line up with the front of the
slot against which the wedge will bear. Start the drill back from the line to allow for any movement before the bit goes in. Again drill through to the escapement. With
chisels, remove the waste between the drilled holes and widen and square up the slot to the full length and width.
If you have a pair of planemaker’s floats like the ones below above this will simplify the process, but chisels and files will do the job. With files, be careful unless you
have one with a safe edge; it is safer to file one surface at a time.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Japanese-Plane/
Step 3: Trim and fit
The wedge will grip front and back, but must not be a tight fit at the sides so it does not split the plane body. Cut it out oversize, but narrow enough to fit the sides of the
slot. Now you will need to flatten the frog, firstly with a chisel or the edge of a file. Then with a warding file align the surface at the mouth end for the spade end of the
blade. Take your time over this, since a flat frog is essential to ensure the plane works effectively. Be particularly careful not to allow the file to rock. As you approach
flatness, you can begin widening the mouth, but keep it tight. It should be only wide enough to let a shaving through.
Trim down the wedge enough for it to start entering the slot to hold the blade. Try out the fit as you go, but do not finally dimension the wedge. Only when you are sure
that the blade seats firmly on the frog can you plane down the wedge to reach to the spade end of the blade as in the diagram and the photo above.
Now with a round file finish the inside of the escapement opening. Try to achieve a sweet curve. Then work on the chamfer, again with a round or half round file. This has
little to do with the operation of the plane, but is important for the appearance.
All that remains is fine sanding all over, and your choice of finish. I used a couple of coats of oil and finished up with wax.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Japanese-Plane/
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http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Japanese-Plane/