instructables

Wooden Scrub Plane From Scrap

by WOmadeOD

What woodworker doesn't have room for a scrub plane? Fantastic for quickly hogging o wood, whether attening a
wonky board, thicknessing some stock, or starting deep chamfers.

Well, here's how I made mine, along with a video and my SketchUp plans that I worked from.

Supplies:

You'll need:

An iron. About 1" (25mm) wide, and 1/8" (3mm) thick. These can be bought ready from Hock Tools and
other blade suppliers, or you could repurpose something as I did (see later).
Steel rod. About 1/4" (6mm) diameter, and 2" (50mm) long. This is for the bridge pin.
Optional Brass half round. About 1" (25mm) diameter, and 1 1/2" (38mm) long. For a ying bridge.
Tough Hardwood. Beech or similar are ne. About 1' (300mm) of 2" x 4" (50mm x 100mm) for the plane
body, and 5" (125mm) of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" (38mm x 38mm) for the wedge.
Optional Tough Hardwood for a dovetailed sole. 1' (300mm) of 2" x 1/2" (50mm x 13mm)
Tools:
Saw(s)
Drill, with a bit to match steel rod
Chisel(s)
Hand plane
Rasps and les or sandpaper
Optional Metal turning lathe, to safely make the ying bridge
Optional Forge or strong heat source (e.g. oxy-acetylene torch) for heat treating diy iron

Wooden Scrub Plane From Scrap: Page 1

 https://youtu.be/5mvDIWT_hlw

View in 3D Download

https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FRF/Z0PB/KNSW9IM5/FRFZ0PBKNSW9IM5.skp

Step 1: Main Body

The main body is made as a three layer lamination, the toe and heel sections.
comprising two sides and the central section. The central
section consists of two pieces, the toe and the heel of Glue the pieces together, leaving space for the iron and
the plane. shavings. Mock it up before gluing with the iron, and
leave at least 3/16" (4mm) for shaving clearance.
The heel also provides the bed for the iron, and this
should be cut at about 45°. Note: I've included a separate sole for the plane shown
here, but you don't need to. The four piece, three layer
If you're starting with one solid piece of wood, rip the lamination above is perfectly adequate.
sides from the middle, plane the sawn faces at and
smooth ready for gluing, and then cut the middle into

Wooden Scrub Plane From Scrap: Page 2

Step 2: Dovetailed Sole (optional)

Wooden Scrub Plane From Scrap: Page 3

Mark dovetails on one edge of the sole, and then draw
diagonals from them across the top of the sole. These
should taper slightly, to make assembly easier. Then
mark in the dovetails on the opposite edge of the sole,
from the lines on the top. This de nes the material to
remove to make the dovetail slots.
The sole and plane body should now slide together.
Make any adjustments until this is the case.
Apply some glue and assemble.
Flush o the main body and sole with a plane.

Saw the sides of all the slots, and then chop/pare out the Although the throat of the plane was made in the
waste. laminated body, the tted sole will need the throat to be
continued through to produce a mouth. It is simply
Use the prepared sole to help mark in the matching chopped and pared through carefully from both sides.
dovetails on the base of the plane body, and remove the
waste.

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Wooden Scrub Plane From Scrap: Page 5
Step 3: Wedge and Bridge
Cut a wedge of about 7° to 8°, with an ample head on it,
and about 1/8" (3mm) thick at the narrow end.
A contrasting wood can look good, but don't worry too
much about that as it's easy to change in the future.
Bore a hole through both sides of the body to hold the
bridge pin, which should be trimmed to the width of the
glued-up body.
Optional: To make a ying bridge, bore the brass half
round to t onto the bridge pin, and trim it's length to t
Wooden Scrub Plane From Scrap: Page 6
between the plane sides. For safety and accuracy, I
strongly suggest this is done in a metal lathe.
Optional: To hide the bridge pin on the outside, cut it
slightly shorter and t wooden plugs into the body, as I've
done. (The photo shows me ush cutting the plugs after the
glue has dried.)
Fit the bridge pin, with ying bridge if used, and secure
with a drop of super-glue from the outside of the plane.
Step 4: Optional: DIY Iron

If you chose to make your own iron, then you'll need to hard, knowing that the softer remainder of the blade
harden it so it remains sharp longer. would prevent it cracking.

I made my iron from an old tyre iron, giving it a radiused So, I heated the back of the iron towards the edge until it
cutting edge with a bevel angle of about 33°. no longer attracted a magnet, and quenched it in oil for
a few minutes before leaving to cool completely.
My heat treatment was aimed just at the last inch
(25mm), and to the side opposite the bevel. The thought Having shaped it before hardening, it took very little
being that that is the only bit that cuts and I'm unlikely time to hone and strop the edge.
to wear though an inch in my lifetime. The added
advantage being that I could leave that surface very

Wooden Scrub Plane From Scrap: Page 7

Step 5: Finishing Off

At this point the plane is full of sharp corners and edges, For protection, the plane is nished with a few coats of
and not comfortable to use. boiled linseed oil.

Using rasps, les, and/or sandpaper, all the sharp edges Thanks for reading my Instructable, I hope I've
and corners are eased, and I created comfy hand holds inspired you to make one.
that t my hands precisely. I kept trying the plane and
adjusting the shape until it was just right for me.

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