Functional

ingredients

HELIOGEL™
LECIGEL™
The versatile
gelling agents
Emulsifying properties
-
Easy-to-use
-
Sensorial gel-cream textures
Heliogel™ is a patented gelling agent with emulsifying properties
conferred by sunflower phospholipids. Specially designed for the
formulation of gel-cream textures, it gives a sensorial skin feel
and offers a creative approach to the formulator.

The 3-in-1 texturizing agent

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has synergistically combined the gelling properties of a
polymer with the emulsifying properties of sunflower phospholipids to obtain a
self-emulsifying system. With its multifunctional profile, Heliogel™ is an essential
formulating partner which can successfully be used in all kinds of face and body
care with a 3-in-1 action:
Thickening power
• It thickens formulas from 0.5%
100 000
Heliogel™ has an increasing thickening power depending on the pourcentage of
use.
80 000
Viscosity (mPa.s)

60 000 • It emulsifies all types of oil phases and makes the obtaining of O/W gel-creams
easier, without additional emulsifier or HLB calculation. It requires neither pre-
40 000
dispersion nor neutralization and can be hot or cold processed. It is preferable
20 000 to add Heliogel™ into the oil phase although it can be mixed directly with the
0
aqueous phase under strong stirring.
0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3
% Heliogel™ • It stabilizes emulsions from 0.2%.

Moreover, sunflower phospholipids, naturally rich in essential fatty acids, restore

the cutaneous balance and reduce TEWL thanks to their film-forming properties.
They offer emollience and protection to the epidermis keeping the skin moisturized.

Compatibilities
pH compatibility

60 000
Heliogel™ is stable over a wide range of pH. It gelifies from pH 2 to 12 with an
optimal viscosity between pH 4 and 8.
50 000

It is also compatible with ethanol and with electrolytes.

Viscosity (mPa.s)

40 000

30 000

20 000

10 000

0
2 4 6 8 10 12
pH

Emulsion with 3% Heliogel™

For a unique sensorial skin feel
Heliogel™ and lecigel™ can be incorporated in a large range of applications:
face, body, sun and hair care. They offer unique gel-creams with the typical
“phospholipid touch” characterized by a cool, soft and silky skin feel.

Their unctuous texture melts upon application without leaving a tacky after-feel
and gives to the skin a long-lasting velvety feeling and a sensation of well-being
and comfort.
Sensorial properties
Studied by an expert panel, formulation with Heliogel™ was found to be cooler
7
+9.4%
(+9.4%) and less tacky (-17.5%) compared to a formulation with a benchmark
competitor product. 6

Score
The sensorial profiles of aqueous gels containing either HELIOGEL™ or LECIGEL™ -17.5%
4
were evaluated by an expert panel.
3

2
Picking
Coolness Tacky after-feel
10 after 1 min after 1 min

8 Slipping
Film-forming Formula 03.048.01: benchmark competitor (3%),
phenonip (0.5%), water (up to 100%)
6 Formula 0.049.05: Heliogel™ (3%), phenonip (0.5%),
water (up to 100%)
4
Coolness
Penetration
2
0

Spreadability
Softness

Tacking Whitening
(application)
Greasiness

Formula 0.062.01 C92: Lecigel™ (1.75%), preservatives (0.80%), water (up to 100%)

Formula 0.062.02 C92: Heliogel™ (2.5%), preservatives (0.80%), water (up to 100%)

Heliogel™ and Lecigel™ have quite the same sensorial profile. They give similar
results on most items such as good slipping power, good softness, good
spreadability and a cool effect when applied. Easy to spread, formulas are rapidly
absorbed by the skin.
However, the oil-free gel-creams formulated with Lecigel™ are less greasy and less
tacky than gel-creams obtained with Heliogel™.

Heliogel ™ and Lecigel ™ give outstanding textures to

formulas
With Lecigel™, rediscover all the sensorial qualities of Heliogel™
with more polyvalent technical performances: easier-to-use,
more concentrated and for oil-free formulating.

Second generation of 3-in-1

texturizing agent
Second generation of versatile gelling agent, Lecigel™ is a multivalent ingredient
which combines in the same time emulsifying properties of lecithin with thickening
and texturizing effects of a polymer. It has been optimized on different points
such as the process use, the polyvalency and the impact on the color rendering
in the emulsion.
Thickening power
Concentrated in active matter, the Lecigel™ powder form is extremely effective
even when used at a low level. 80 000

Viscosity (mPa.s)
60 000
•A
 s an O/W emulsifier, Lecigel™ can be formulated with all types of oil phases,
40 000
either alone from 0.5% or combined with a large variety of other emulsifiers.
Used from 0.1%, it stabilizes perfectly emulsions. 20 000

0
•E
 asier-to-use, Lecigel™ allows a better dispersion either in oil or water phase, 0 0.5 1 1.5
% Lecigel™
or can be easily added at any stage of the formulation process. It is suitable for
Emulsion with 1.5% Lecigel™
both hot and cold processes or through one-pot process. It is not shear-sensitive
which allows the use of all types of mixing systems.

• Lecigel™ provides white oil-free gel-creams.

Compatibilities
Ethanol compatibility
Lecigel™ can be formulated with a high amount of ethanol and over a wide range
120 000
of pH. It is also compatible with electrolytes. 100 000
Viscosity (mPa.s)

80 000
Lecigel™ is perfectly adapted to high level of ethanol up to 20%. 60 000

40 000

20 000

0
0 5 10 15 20 25 30
% Ethanol

Emulsion with 1.5% Lecigel™

 Product Summer Shine Gel-Cream 11.291.01 C121
description IngrEdient Inci name %
Heliogel™ A Deionised water Water 77.05
inci name Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10
Sodium acrylates copolymer Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin 0.30
(and) Hydrogenated polyisobutene FDC red 4 Water (and) CI 14700 0.10
(and) Phospholipids (and) 0.1% solution
Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (and) FDC yellow 5 Water (and) CI 19140 0.85
Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 0.1% solution
seed oil
B Heliogel™ Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Hydrogenated 3.00
Appearance polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10
Beige paste stearate (and) Helianthus annus (sunflower) seed oil
Dub inin Isononyl isononanoate 5.00
Formulation Cetiol S Diethylhexylcyclohexane 2.50
Add into oil phase or water phase
Dermofeel™ Sensolv* Isoamyl laurate 2.50
Hot or cold process
No pre-dispersion or neutralization Dermofeel™ BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 3.00
Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 0.20
optimum ph non GMO*
4-8 but usable from 2 to 12
C Chlorhexidine Water (and) Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.20
DOsage Digluconate
0.2-3% 20% solution
D Melitane® Glycerin (and) Water (and) Dextran (and) Acetyl hexapeptide 15.00
applicationS
- Emulsifier for gel-creams E Relax 2020/2 Fragrance 0.20
(from 1%)
- Viscosity adjuster for all kinds
pH: 5.5 - 6.0 – Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 60 000 -70 000 mPa.s
of emulsions (from 1%)
- Stabilizer for all kinds of
emulsions (from 0.2%)

Product Cooling Gel-Cream 9.202.05 C88

description IngrEdient Inci name %
Lecigel™ A Deionised water Water 76.80
inci name FDC blue 1 Water (and) CI 42090 0.35
Sodium acrylates copolymer 0.1% solution
(and) Lecithin Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin 0.30
Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10
Appearance FDC yellow 5 Water (and) CI 19140 0.10
Beige powder 0.1% solution
Formulation B Lecigel™ Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin 1.75
Add into oil phase or water
phase. Hot or cold process C Dub inin Isononyl isononanoate 4.00
No pre-dispersion or neutralization Dermofeel™ BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 3.00
Viscosity adjuster at the process Myritol 318 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.00
end Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 0.20
non GMO*
optimum ph
4-8 D Hydraporine™ Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrogenated 3.00
Lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin
DOsage Capt-System™ B9 Water (and) Lecithin (and) Alcohol (and) Glycerin (and) 2.00
0.1-2% Folic acid
Suprem’™ WP Kiwi Water (and) Actinidia chinensis (kiwi) seed oil (and) Lecithin 2.00
applicationS
- Emulsifier for gel-creams (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and)
(from 0.5%) Glyceryl stearate
- Viscosity adjuster for all kinds Hydralphatine Asia® Glycerin (and) Propylene glycol (and) Sorbitol (and) 1.00
of emulsions (from 0.5%) Bambusa vulgaris leaf/stem extract (and) Nelumbo nucifera
- Stabilizer for all kinds of flower extract (and) Nymphaea alba flower extract
emulsions (from 0.1%)
E Covabead PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate 2.00
F Chlorhexidine Water (and) Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.20
digluconate
20% solution
G Tendresse 3810/2 Fragrance 0.20

* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics. pH: 5.5 - 6.0 – Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 70 000 - 80 000 mPa.s
FEATURES AND BENEFITS
Features Benefits
Phospholipid-based gelling-emulsifying agents Formulation of gel-creams

Sensorial study Silky and light skin feel

Heliogel™: high compatibility over a wide pH range Wide range of applications

Lecigel™: high compatibility with ethanol Wide range of applications

Summary
Heliogel™ Lecigel™

Sodium acrylates copolymer (and)

Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids
INCI Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin
(and) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (and) Helianthus
annuus (sunflower) seed oil

Appearance Paste Powder

Introduction Oily phase especially Any step

Hydration phase No No

pH 2-12 4-8

Main emulsifier dose 1-3% 0.5-2%

Viscosity adjuster dose 1-3% 0.5-2%

Stabilizer dose 0.2-3% 0.1-2%

Stability with alcohol ++ +++

Stability with electrolytes ++ +

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics® April 2012

This brochure is not intended for consumers and neither this brochure nor any extract thereof shall be used in order to commercialize products to consumers. No
drawing, photograph or other extract derived from this brochure shall be used by any person without our prior written approval. As well, no claim with respect to
the ingredient referred to in this brochure shall be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the claim is set forth in this brochure. The
person using the ingredient referred to in this brochure in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of the ingredient,
the finished products marketed to consumers, their packaging, labelling and advertising materials and the claims made with respect to the finished products and the
ingredient comply with all applicable laws and regulations. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of the ingredient referred to in this brochure for any purpose.
Any prospective user of the ingredient shall himself determine the suitability of the ingredient for his intended use and, as the case may be, obtain the required
regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics s.a.s. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics canada Inc.

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T: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 69 - F: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 70 T: +1 418 653-6888 - F: +1 418 653-6005 info@lucasmeyercosmetics.com