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Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62

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Continental Shelf Research


journal homepage: www.elsevier.com/locate/csr

Research papers

Seasonal and inter-annual dynamics of suspended sediment at the


mouth of the Amazon river: The role of continental and oceanic
forcing, and implications for coastal geomorphology and
mud bank formation
Erwan Gensac a,n, Jean-Michel Martinez a, Vincent Vantrepotte b, Edward J. Anthony c
a
Géoscience Environnement Toulouse, GET, UMR 5563 (CNRS/UPS/IRD), Toulouse University, France
b
Laboratoire d’Océanologie et de Géosciences, LOG, UMR 8187 (CNRS/ULCO/Lille1), Littoral Côte d'Opale University, France
c
Aix Marseille Université, Institut Universitaire de France, Centre Européen de Recherche et d’Enseignement des Géosciences de l’Environnement, CEREGE UM
34, France

art ic l e i nf o a b s t r a c t

Article history: Fine-grained sediments supplied to the Ocean by the Amazon River and their transport under the in-
Received 2 January 2015 fluence of continental and oceanic forcing drives the geomorphic change along the 1500 km-long coast
Received in revised form northward to the Orinoco River delta. The aim of this study is to give an encompassing view of the
3 August 2015
sediment dynamics in the shallow coastal waters from the Amazon River mouth to the Capes region
Accepted 19 February 2016
Available online 22 February 2016
(northern part of the Amapa region of Brazil and eastern part of French Guiana), where large mud banks
are formed. Mud banks are the overarching features in the dynamics of the Amazon-Orinoco coast. They
Keywords: start migrating northward in the Capes region. Suspended Particulate Matter (SPM) concentrations were
MODIS calculated from satellite products (MODIS Aqua and Terra) acquired over the period 2000–2013. The
Amazon River mouth
Census-X11 decomposition method used to discriminate short-term, seasonal and long-term time
Shallow coastal waters
components of the SPM variability has rendered possible a robust analysis of the impact of continental
Surface suspended sediment concentration
Mud banks and oceanic forcing. Continental forcing agents considered are the Amazon River water discharge, SPM
Estuarine processes concentration and sediment discharge. Oceanic forcing comprises modelled data of wind speed and
direction, wave height and direction, and currents. A 150 km-long area of accretion is detected at Cabo
Norte that may be linked with a reported increase in the river's sediment discharge concurrent with the
satellite data study period. We also assess the rate of mud bank migration north of Cabo Norte, and
highlight its variability. Although we confirm a 2 km y 1 migration rate, in agreement with other au-
thors, we show that this velocity may be up to 5 km y 1 along the Cabo Orange region, and we highlight
the effect of water discharge by major rivers debouching on this coastal mud belt in modulating such
rates. Finally, we propose a refined sediment transport pattern map of the region based on our results
and of previous studies in the area such as the AMASSEDS programme, and discuss the relationship
between sediment transport and accumulation patterns and the coastal geomorphology of this region.
& 2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

1. Introduction and rationale 754  106 t yr 1 78% of sediment to the Atlantic (Martinez et al.,
2009). About 20% of this supply forms fluid mud and mud banks
The Amazon River drains a catchment of 5.9  106 km2 and is the (Eisma et al., 1991) that migrate in a 1500 km long coastal belt
world's first fluvial purveyor of fresh water to the ocean with a from the mouth of the Amazon River to that of the Orinoco River.
mean annual discharge of 208,000 m3 s 1 (Callède et al., 2010). These mud banks constitute the overarching control on the mor-
Regarding sediment supply, a recent assessment over the period phodynamics and the ecosystems of this coast (Froidefond et al.,
1995–2007 has shown that the Amazon River delivers 1988; Allison et al., 2000; Alisson and Lee, 2004; Gardel and
Gratiot, 2005; Anthony et al., 2010, 2014).
The position and the shape of the Amazon plume, which fluc-
n tuates between 286  103 and 1506  103 km2 (Molleri et al., 2010;
Correspondence to: Géoscience Environnement Toulouse, 14 Avenue Edouard
Belin, 31400 Toulouse, France. Kang et al., 2013), are mainly influenced by the strength of the
E-mail address: erwan.gensac@get.obs-mip.fr (E. Gensac). river discharge, wind direction and ocean surface currents (Geyer,

http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2016.02.009
0278-4343/& 2016 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
50 E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62

1995; Lentz, 1995; Lentz and Limeburner, 1995; Geyer, 1995; Nit- processes affecting the circulation of water masses in the Atlantic
trouer and DeMaster, 1996). Although the fluctuations of the Ocean. Several earlier studies were based on in situ measure-
Amazon plume and the effects of these fluctuations on oceanic ments, which are obviously necessary for understanding the aty-
waters are well documented, only few studies have dealt with the pical fate of the fine sediment supplied by the Amazon River.
spatiotemporal dynamics of SPM concentrations of the superficial Such studies provide, however, only very punctual and partial
coastal waters under the influence of the Amazon River (Kineke information for this very vast area subjected to high frequency
and Steinberg, 1995; Geyer et al., 1996; Kineke et al., 1996; Geyer variability. The dispersal of the SPM supplied by the Amazon River
et al., 2004). The Amazon shelf is a complex area with large is not directly linked to the variation in the river's plume. Sedi-
temporal and spatial variations in SPM generated by the combined ment transport, due to flocculation, settlement and resuspension
influence of the large Amazon discharge and of the hydrodynamic processes, diverges from the route of the fresh water outflow

Fig. 1. Satellite image in true colour of the mouth of the Amazon, the Amapá coast of Brazil, and the Capes region astride French Guiana and Brazil. Main geomorphological
features are numbered (orange for land structures and blue for water bodies). Amazon waters are supplied to the ocean by two major channels, the Southern (5) and,
especially, the Northern channel (2). Marajo Island (8) and Cabo Norte (9) bound the mouth of the Amazon, but the Para River (7) is usually considered as part of this mouth.
Just north of Maraca Island (10) is the starting point of a long coast in erosion up to the south of Cabo Cassiporé (11). Cabo Cassiporé is the eastern part of the Capes region,
which comprises Cabo Cassiporé, Cabo Orange (12) and Pointe Béhague (14-French Guiana) which are separated by the Cassiporé, the Oyapock and the Approuague Rivers,
respectively. The onset on the bottom left corner is a map of the North of the South America. Obidos city along the Amazon River, Cayenne and Kourou cities in French Guiana
are outlined. (For interpretation of the references to color in this figure legend, the reader is referred to the web version of this article.)
E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62 51

(Geyer et al., 2004). processes and further attempts to identify areas respectively under
The meeting of the fresh and highly turbid waters of the continental and oceanic influences. We identify near-bottom se-
Amazon with saline Atlantic Ocean water generates the constitu- diment transport in shallow waters on the basis of a thorough
tion of a tremendous amount of fluid mud that is not confined to analysis of a 14-year time series, and highlight the relationship
the Amazon's mouth but trapped in a maximum turbidity area shown by Vantrepotte et al. (2013) between fluid mud transport
(TM) 100–200 km seaward (Gibbs, 1970; Nittrouer et al., 1986; and SPM concentrations from satellite data. The impact of key
Geyer et al., 1991). Kuehl et al. (1986a, 1986b) and Geyer et al. geomorphic features such as Cabo Norte shoal and the Capes re-
(2004) estimated that almost all of the fine sediment supplied gion (Fig. 1), on fine sediment transport, and the role of large river
each year by the Amazon is trapped during the constitution of this mouths debouching on this coastal area north of the Amazon on
fluid mud, which acts as a purveyor of sediment to the subaqueous
fluid mud transport are also discussed.
Amazon delta, but also to the mud banks that migrate alongshore
towards the Orinoco River delta. Consequently, a fluid mud layer a
few meters thick occurs on the inner and the middle shelf (0–60 m
depth) over an area ranging from 5700 km2 during phases of 2. Methods
falling and low river discharge, to 10,000 km2 during phases of
rising and high discharge (Kineke and Steinberg, 1995). This fluid 2.1. Satellite-derived SPM concentrations
mud consists of about 90% of silt and clay (Milliman and Meade,
1983; Pujos et al., 1996). The coagulation and flocculation pro- This study is based on space and time analysis of SPM con-
cesses leading to the formation of fluid mud were described by centrations in surface waters based on satellite assessment.
Faas (1986) and Gibbs and Konwar (1986). Usually, coastal waters are studied using ocean colour satellite
Although the Cabo Norte shoal separating the TM from the data. This type of data is well adapted for the open ocean;
Amapà coast (Fig. 1) might play an important role in the fate of the nevertheless, ocean colour data from coastal waters, and especially
portion of this fluid mud that migrates alongshore under the those with high turbidity, are still rather unreliable. Highly turbid
combined influence of currents and waves, the only observations waters strongly reflect light at near infrared, and saturate satellite
available in this critical sector are those of Kineke and Sternberg sensors at red wavelengths, such that commonly turbid coastal
(1995) who, noted, in fact, the absence of fluid mud. Fundamental waters are usually classified as clouds by conventional atmo-
questions thus still remain regarding fluid mud transport between spheric correction algorithms (Franz et al., 2006). Consequently,
the Amazon subaqueous delta and the Amapá coast.
such waters are usually masked and nearshore pixels are not as-
It is interesting to note that the Amapá coast up north to Cabo
sessed from ocean colour satellite products. Considering these
Norte is mainly in erosion with sandy beaches or consolidated
limitations, we use in this study MODIS Aqua and Terra satellite
muddy shores (Allison et al., 1995). However, a fluid mud layer
continental products in order to retrieve SPM concentrations
several meters thick was documented 100 km offshore of this
within the Amazon River mouth and along the coastal zone to-
coast by Alexander et al. (1986). This pattern of inshore mud de-
pletion in this area could be explained by the influence of tides wards French Guiana. MODIS continental products are developed
and waves, which tend to maintain sediment in suspension be- for continental studies where high reflectance at the near-infrared
tween 0 and 15 m, thus preventing deposition. This point will be wavelength is not masked, rendering data from these products
discussed later. Maximum deposition ( E10 cm y 1) occurs just well adapted to extremely turbid waters. However, continental
beyond the 15 m depth contour where sediment removal by products may show unreliable reflectance estimates offshore,
oceanic forcing is not too strong, thus allowing for settling (Kuehl where Case-1 waters show very low reflectance values. In order to
et al., 1986). The fine sediment dynamics in this region have been avoid spurious results, pixels showing less than 50% of reliable
punctually described during key periods of the Amazon's seasonal data (cloud-free and positive reflectance values) over the 14-year
discharge and in relation to oceanic forcing during the course of time series were discarded from our study. Fig. 2 (left panel)
the AMASSEDS project at the beginning of the 1990 s (Nittrouer shows that the exploitable pixels selected are mainly confined to
et al., 1991). However, no studies dealing with longer term, rather an area corresponding to the mouth of the Amazon and to shallow
than seasonal, processes were realised in the course of this project. coastal waters under the Amazon's influence. Our pixels match the
There is, therefore, a lack of knowledge on the inter-annual region of subaqueous deltaic topset beds identified by Nittrouer
variability of fine sediment transport in this area. and DeMaster (1986) at a depth of 10–20 m (Fig. 3, right panel).
Allison et al. (2000) identified the area between Cabo Cassipore MODIS data products (MOD09Q1, MOD09A1, MYD09A1,
and Cabo Orange (Capes region) as the region of formation of the MYD09Q1) were downloaded from the NASA Reverb Echo website
mud banks. These authors also highlighted from seismic reflection (http://reverb.echo.nasa.gov/reverb). For each MODIS reflectance
two parts of small mud banks offshore of Cabo Orange in waters product, 1166 eight-day composites were analysed from February
between 5 and 20 m depth ( E20 km offshore). Further west along
2000 to December 2013 at a spatial resolution of 250 m. Each pixel
the French Guiana coast, mud banks have been clearly identified
of each eight-day composite image represents the best pixel ac-
from their shoreline imprints (Froidefond et al., 1988; Allison et al.,
quired over the period in terms of quality (atmospheric conditions,
2000; Gardel and Gratiot, 2005). Using an original decomposition
viewing geometry). Additional image quality information was re-
method based on Census-X11 (see Section 2), Vantrepotte et al.
trieved from the 500-m eight-day composites (satellite and sun
(2013) highlighted a relationship between mud bank migration
and decadal variations in SPM concentration assessed by satellite geometry, aerosols and cirrus information) to remove pixels af-
in coastal waters. The main objective of this paper is to assess the fected by sun-glint effects and residual atmospheric artefacts. The
seasonal and inter-annual dynamics of suspended sediments and SPM concentrations are calculated using a single band algorithm
fluid mud transport in shallow coastal waters from the mouth of developed for SPM concentration assessment in the Amazon River,
the Amazon to neighbouring French Guiana through a study of known for its particularly turbid waters. In practice, this algorithm
SPM variations from satellite data. SPM variations are analysed on is based on the infrared (841–876 nm) MODIS 250-m reflectance
a seasonal basis that complements data from earlier field-based band, which is a good proxy for SPM in highly turbid waters where
studies but with improved spatial and temporal resolutions. The shorter wavelengths (i.e. blue to red) saturate rapidly as a function
study also aims at relating SPM variability to the ambient physical of SPM concentration (Martinez et al., 2009).
52 E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62

Fig. 2. (a) Percent of exploitable data for each pixel between February 2000 and December 2013. 1166 eight-day composite images have been analysed. Areas presenting a
minimum of 50% records available for analysis over the time series appear as green to red. (b) Bathymetric chart of Amazon continental shelf, showing locations of the main
geomorphological features, adapted from Nittrouer and DeMaster (1986). CO: Cabo Orange; CN: Cabo Norte; Ama. Riv.: Amazon River. (For interpretation of the references to
color in this figure legend, the reader is referred to the web version of this article.)

2.2. Ancillary data calculated by Servain et al. (2014), has been used in this study.
The Amazon River water and sediment discharges constitute
Wind speed and wind direction but also Significant Swell and the fundamental continental forcing agents in the Amazon plume
Wave Heights (SSWH) and wave directional data were retrieved dynamics. These discharges are measured by the HYBAM pro-
from the reanalysis climate ERA-INTERIM archive, provided by the gramme (http://www.ore-hybam.org), an observatory of the
European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) Amazon River that uses 14 monitoring stations spread over the
at a daily timescale with a spatial resolution of 0.75°. Wind, waves river basin. We used hydrological and sedimentological data from
and tidal currents are considered as the main forcing parameters Óbidos station, which is the most downstream station with no
in the Amazon and in waters along the coast of the Guianas in- tidal influence and downstream of which there are no other major
fluenced by Amazon mud (Eisma et al., 1991; Allison et al., 2000; tributaries of the Amazon. Monthly-averaged water and sediment
Augustinuus, 2004; Gratiot et al., 2007; Anthony et al., 2010, 2014). discharges were assessed from the HYBAM database between
Winds are important not only in generating waves, but also in the February 2000 and September 2013. SPM concentration at Obidos
formation of coastal currents. Tides have not been considered in station was also retrieved using MODIS imagery from 2000 to 2013
(see further details in Martinez et al. (2009)).
this study because of the seasonal and pluri-annual timescale
analysis. The data on winds and waves are used to define the
2.3. Time series analysis
temporal variations of the oceanic conditions close to the Amazon
delta. The seasonal and inter-annual timescales as well as monthly
Monthly time series of SPM and forcing parameters were de-
averaging entails lowering the impact of smaller timescale pro-
composed using the Census X-11 method (Pezzulli et al., 2005),
cesses at diurnal and fortnightly tidal cycles. Monthly means of
the advantages of which, have been demonstrated in several stu-
wind speed, wind direction and SSWH were calculated between
dies (Vantrepotte and Mélin, 2009; Mélin et al., 2011, Vantrepotte
longitudes 310.5 and 312.75°E and between latitudes 0 and 2.5°N,
et al., 2011, 2013). In practice, this iterative bandpass filtering
i.e. seaward of the mouth of the Amazon. This region has been method aims at decomposing a time series X(t) into three additive
found to be representative of the mean coastal conditions of the components:
entire study zone. The position of the Intertropical Convergence
Zone (ITCZ), involved in changes in wind and wave directions, X (t) = S (t) + T (t) + I (t)
E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62 53

Fig. 3. Median climatology of three Amazon components of continental forcing: (a) SPM concentration, (b) sediment discharge and (c) liquid discharge. Four components of
oceanic forcing are considered: (d) position of the Intertropical Convergence Zone, (e) swell and wind-wave heights and (f) direction, (g) wind speed and (h) direction.

where S is the seasonal signal, T the trend cycle signal and I the forcing was conducted on a pixel basis over the area delineated in
irregular or residual signal (Shiskin et al., 1967; Vantrepotte and Fig. 2. The Pearson correlation is used because of the near in-
Mélin, 2009). The detailed procedure is documented in Van- stantaneous response of SPM variation to variation in oceanic
trepotte and Mélin (2011). The most remarkable feature of this forcing (regional wind and wave). Considering the Amazon mean
methodology resides in the fact that the seasonal term is not de- river water speed (1–2 m s 1), the Óbidos signal reaches the
fined as a strictly periodical signal. This allows for a specific as- mouth of the Amazon River in a few days, which can be considered
sessment of year-to-year variation in the seasonal oscillation (in as compatible with our monthly averages.
terms of period and amplitude) and thus for a clear identification
of the non-linear long-term evolution in the series not affected by
inter-annual modulation in the seasonal signal (Gregg and Rous- 3. Results
seaux 2014; Beaulieu et al., 2013). In order to summarize the
spatial patterns of the temporal variability associated with the 3.1. Continental and oceanic forcing on SPM dynamics
analysed times series, the relative part of the variance of the
components can be estimated for each grid point and then map- Fig. 3 presents the climatology of continental (Amazon basin)
ped. In addition to the latter statistical method, the presence of a and oceanic forcing. The influence of the Amazon River on the SPM
significant monotonic long-term change in the times series was concentration dynamics in coastal waters is described using three
assessed using the non-parametric seasonal Kendall statistics, and variables: superficial SPM concentration (Fig. 3a), river sediment
the amplitude of change evaluated using the non-parametric Sen's discharge (Fig. 3b) and river water discharge (Fig. 3c), all from
slope estimator expressed in % yr 1 (Gilbert, 1987; Vantrepotte Óbidos station. The oceanic forcing considered here concerns the
et al., 2011). variables: significant swell and wave height (Fig. 3e) and direction
(Fig. 3f), wind speed (Fig. 3g) and direction (Fig. 3h), and the po-
2.4. Correlation maps sition of the ITCZ (Fig. 3d). The ITCZ modulates wind and oceanic
circulation regimes which both drive water column mixing and
Pearson correlation between monthly time series of SPM and sediment transport processes.
54 E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62

The Amazon River SPM concentration starts increasing in Oc- sediment discharge presents a different seasonal pattern. The
tober and reaches a maximum of E250 mg l 1 in January or maximum of the river sediment discharge is reached in March
February and then rapidly decreases to reach a minimum in June (1.1  108 t per month) and the minimum occurs in October (3  107 t
and July (E60 mg l 1). The seasonal variation of the river per month). This lag between sediment discharge and SPM is

Fig. 4. Map (a) shows the variation coefficient of SPM concentration over the period 2000–2013. Maps (b) and (c) depict the relative contributions, in percent for each pixel,
explained by seasonal (a) and inter-annual (Trend cycle term) (b) processes in the overall variation of SPM obtained by the Census X-11 decomposition method. Map
(d) shows the long-term trend expressed in percent per year of the SPM concentration between 2000 and 2013. This percentage is calculated using a monotonic tendency.
CO: Cabo Orange; CN: Cabo Norte.
E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62 55

explained by a shift in the hydrological cycles of the main tribu- (a) as the relative contribution of the seasonal (b) and inter-annual
taries of the Amazon River that drain catchments located in both (c) components extracted from the Census X-11 decomposition
the northern (Negro River) and southern hemispheres (Madeira procedure of the SPM time series for the period 2000–2013. The
and Solimoes Rivers). The seasonal Amazon River water discharge monotonic trend (d) depicts significant increase or decrease trends
has a sinusoidal shape with a maximum of approximately 2.4  in SPM concentration. Along the French Guiana coast, offshore of
105 m3 s 1 in June and a minimum of 1  105 m3 s 1 in November. the Amapá coast and the Amazon mouth, and in the Para River, the
The maximum discharge coincides with the sharp decrease of the variation coefficient shows strong variability (60 to more than
Amazon River SPM concentration, illustrating dilution processes. 100%)and may be linked to a decrease in reliable data (Fig. 2, left
The ITCZ is close to the Equator from January to March and panel) due to limitations in the MODIS continental product far
migrates towards the North in April to reach 11°N in August. The from the coast. The lowest values (10–30%) of the variation coef-
ITCZ migrates back southward in September. During the northern ficient, above the Cabo Norte shoal and the T-shaped pattern
hemisphere winter, winds are from the northeast ( E50°) and are mentioned above, reflect the constant high turbidity of these
associated with the strongest velocities, which reach up to 6 m s 1 waters. Areas associated with the North and the Jurupary chan-
in February. From March to July, wind direction turns to east- nels, such as the inshore region of Cabo Norte, show a higher
southeast (100°) and velocity decreases to 4 m s 1. An increase in variation that attains 50–60% and mainly explained by seasonal
the wind velocity occurs in autumn when wind direction reverts processes (70–80% of the overall SPM variation, Fig. 4b). Seasonal
back to northeast (5 m s 1). Waves are strongly tied to wind processes largely dominate much of the SPM variation in shallow
conditions, and thus evince the same patterns. During much of the coastal waters ( 460% overall), with a maximum contribution to
year (November–May) waves are from the northeast. Significant the total variance in the mouth of the Amazon mouth. Longer-term
heights reach up to 1.5 m during winter with a maximum in processes play an important role in a coastal fringe approximately
February and then decrease to 1.2 m in August, while directions 10 km wide along the French Guiana coast and offshore of Cabo
change to east. Wave height again increases in autumn, with an Norte (trend cycle, Fig. 4c). Along French Guiana as South of Cabo
approach direction from east-northeast. Norte, the inter-annual trend is approximately 30% and reaches
60% in the nearshore zone of mud banks in French Guiana. This
3.2. SPM variability in coastal waters indicates the influence of sharp inter-annual processes in SPM
variation. For some islands at the mouth of the Amazon and along
Shallow coastal waters show strong seasonal variation asso- Cabo Norte, the very high percentages of the trend cycle con-
ciated with modulation of the Amazon River outflow and the tribution (from 80% to 100%) reflect the accretion of coastal
impact of oceanic forcing. The SPM concentrations obtained from mudflats that consequently greatly increase the reflectance in the
the satellite data for the various channels of the Amazon varies infrared domain.
from 350 mg l 1 to less than 70 mg l 1 in agreement with the The monotonic trend analysis highlights areas with a sig-
concentration range upstream at Óbidos station (Martinez et al., nificant increase or decrease in SPM concentration over the period
2009). In the river mouth and its surrounding areas, the SPM 2000–2013 (Fig. 4d). No monotonic trends are highlighted in the
variations are greater with a maximum of 1000 mg l 1 (Supple- mouth of the Amazon except for some islands associated with
mentary data, Figure A1). The SPM concentrations assessed by active mudflat formation. Of interest is a marked 150 km-long
satellite are thus of the same order as those measured along spit-like pattern offshore of Cabo Norte. This pattern shows an
transects in the mouth of the river and the Cabo Cassiporé region increase in SPM concentration from 2% to 10% a year and reaching
(Nittrouer et al., 1986; Curtin and Legeckist, 1986), in the frontal 20% a year close to the North Channel. The coastal region between
zone of the river mouth (J.-M. Martinez, unpublished data), as well Cabo Cassiporé and Cabo Norte does not show any significant
as in French Guiana (Froidefond et al., 2004; Loisel et al., 2009; trend whereas 30 km offshore of Maraca Island and south of Cabo
Vantrepotte et al., 2011). Cassiporé, large areas show significant SPM increases (from 2% to
Between January and March, when both the Amazon sediment 10% a year).
discharge and wave energy peak, all the shallow coastal waters Regions with strong increases or decreases in the monotonic
show relatively high SPM concentration reaching up to trend alternate along the French Guiana coast. These regions (20–
400 mg l 1. Nevertheless, two specific areas offshore of Cabo 40 km long and 20 km wide) are associated with the mud bank
Norte and offshore of Santa Rosa Bay exhibit larger values with a migration process in agreement with the findings of Vantrepotte
concentration of up to 700 mg l 1. In April, the SPM concentration et al. (2013) based on MERIS data. In French Guiana, the SPM de-
begins to decrease for the whole coastal domain. In May and July, crease is linked to the erosion of a mud bank whereas the process
which correspond to the Amazon peak water discharge, the SPM of silting up of coastal areas by fluid mud deposits released by
concentration continues to decrease ( E200 mg l 1) except over mud bank erosion causes SPM increases of up to 10 or 20% a year.
the Cabo Norte shoal and offshore of Santa Rosa Bay which tends No such alternating trend is observed elsewhere in the study area.
to increase until December, notwithstanding the decrease in Over the large mud bank area at Cabo Orange described by Allison
Amazon water discharge. The region offshore of Santa Rosa Bay, et al. (2000), only two small regions present a significant increase
characterised by a T-shaped pattern can be associated with the in SPM concentration of about 2–10% a year. A significant increase
transverse shoal described in this region (Barreto et al., 1975; can also be noted at Pointe Béhague and in the western part of
Milliman, 1979; Nittrouer et al., 1986). North of the Cabo Norte Cabo Orange (Fig. 4d).
region, along the Amapá coast, SPM concentration increases
slightly from August to November, then sharply increases from 3.4. Impact of oceanic and continental forcing
December to March, and finally decreases from April to July. Along
the French Guiana coast, SPM concentration increases from Jan- The seasonal signal was found to be the dominant one in ac-
uary to March, reaching up 600 mg l 1, before decreasing sharply counting for temporal variability in SPM over the investigated
from April to December ( o100 mg l 1). area. Fig. 5 shows the spatial distribution of the seasonal correla-
tion between SPM concentration and continental/oceanic forcing.
3.3. Temporal scales of SPM concentration variations Continental forcing components are represented by Amazon se-
diment discharge (Fig. 5a), Amazon water discharge (Fig. 5b) and
Fig. 4 shows the variation coefficient of the SPM concentration Amazon River SPM concentration (Fig. 5c), whereas oceanic
56 E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62

Fig. 5. Seasonal correlation maps between SPM concentration and continental/oceanic forcing components. Only correlation indices from 0.5 to 1 (reddish tones) or lower
than 0.5 (bluish tones) are mapped. Continental forcing components considered are Amazon River SPM concentration (a), Amazon sediment discharge (b) and Amazon
liquid discharge (c).Oceanic forcing components are Significant S well and Wave Height (SSWH) (d), wind speed (e) and the position of the ITCZ (f). (For interpretation of the
references to color in this figure legend, the reader is referred to the web version of this article.)

forcing components are assessed through the seasonal fluctuations concentration in coastal waters and all forcing components (i.e.
of SSWH (Fig. 5d), wind speed (Fig. 5e), and the latitudinal position continental and oceanic). This result may be due to the inadequate
of the ITCZ (Fig. 5f). Correlation between wind and wave direction length of the time-series or to a nonlinear relationship between
and SPM concentration in coastal waters gives results very similar forcing and SPM at the inter-annual scale.
to those obtained when the ITCZ position is considered, and these Interestingly, whereas significant correlations (0.7–0.9) are
results are therefore not shown. Note that no convincing correla- found between the Amazon River SPM concentration and the
tions were found for inter-annual variation between SPM entire domain of Amazon mouth waters (Fig. 5a), low correlations
E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62 57

(0.3–0.5) occur between the Amazon River sediment discharge positively correlated (0.5–0.7) with ITCZ position and thus with
and SPM concentration in the waters of the river mouth (Fig. 5b). wind and wave direction. This positive correlation indicates that
This result point outs the time shift between the Amazon River the SPM concentration increases when winds and waves are from
discharge peak and the sediment discharge peak (Fig. 3). The east-southeast.
temporal variability in SPM in the mouth of the Amazon is also For regions extending north off Cabo Norte, the Amazon in-
related to that of the Amazon River discharge specifically in two fluence is not the dominant forcing component, as indicated by
restricted areas, located respectively in Santa Rosa bay and at the (Curtin and Legeckist, 1986) or Anthony et al. (2014). Correlations
south bank of the South channel along Marajo Island, where there with continental forcing in this area may simply be due to co-
are significant negative correlations between these two para- variation of the temporal SPM signal. The coastal waters near
meters (Fig. 5c). Maraca Island are significantly correlated with wind speed (0.5–
Oceanic forcing controls SPM concentrations in the mouth of 0.8). The increase in wind velocity favours water column mixing
the Amazon and these concentrations are significantly correlated and resuspension processes especially in these very shallow wa-
with SSWH and wind speed (Fig. 5d and e), with spatial patterns ters (o 5 m depth). The SPM concentration in the coastal area
very similar to those found for the correlation with the Amazon north of Maraca Island and south of Cabo Orange is correlated with
River SPM concentration (Fig. 5a). Seasonal variations in the both SSWH (0.7–0.9) and wind speed (0.5–0.8), and anti-corre-
Amazon River SPM concentration, SSWH and wind speed are lated with the ITCZ ( 0.6 to 0.9). The positive correlations de-
globally co-varying. The relative impact of each of the latter for- note resuspension processes whereas the negative correlation
cing components is therefore difficult to distinguish using a simple marks the offshore migration of the Amazon River plume. In the
correlation analysis. The SPM concentration of the Northern Capes region and in French Guiana the SPM concentration varies in
channel and a part of the southern sector of the Amazon River a similar way with the same type of correlations as in the afore-
mouth is anti-correlated (0.7–0.9) with the ITCZ position and thus mentioned area except for wind speed (0.3–0.5).
with wind and swell direction (Fig. 5f).
Excepting the influence of the Amazon River discharge on a 3.5. Fluid mud transport
40 km-wide narrow coastal fringe, the SPM dynamics in the Cabo
Norte sector is almost not linked to continental forcing. A re- The constant presence of a fluid mud mass within shallow
stricted area north of Cabo Norte presents a significant anti-cor- coastal waters in a specific area substantially enhances the SPM
relation with the Amazon solid discharge (0.6–0.8). This latter concentration in the water column, thus impacting the surface
region and an area situated 50 km offshore of Cabo Norte are also waters visible with satellite imagery. Fig. 6 shows spatiotemporal

Fig. 6. Time-space diagrams of trend cycle SPM concentrations from February 2000 to December 2013 (seasonal and irregular variations are removed) computed over six
profiles. SPM values lower than 150 mg l 1 are not representative of fluid mud migration and consequently removed. Profiles, numbered A–L, were realized in areas of
significant monotonic trend. Within the profile along Cabo Orange (E-F), the approximate position of two mud banks described by Allison et al. (2000) is indicated and the
dashed arrow indicates the present position of one of these mud banks if its mean migration velocity was approximately of 5.2 km y 1. The map in the upper right corner is a
detailed view of the significant monotonic trend term presented in this figure with the profile positions.
58 E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62

evolution of these long-term SPM fluctuations (trend cycle) along are also relatively turbid ( o150 mg l 1), but no clearly migrating
six transects realised in keys areas along the coast between Kourou turbid plume can be identified. However, a sharp increase in SPM
in French Guiana and north of the mouth of the Amazon. The areas occurs, especially in the eastern part of this region, and has been
selected show a significant increase and/or decrease in SPM be- noticeable since 2009. Closer to the Amazon mouth, along Cabo
tween 2000 and 2013 and may be associated with fluid mud Norte, the last transect (Fig. 6, transect K-L) cuts through the spit-
transport, as shown also for French Guiana by Vantrepotte et al. like feature characterized by an important increase in SPM
(2013). The SPM concentrations range from 150 mg l 1 to (Fig. 4d). This area shows highly turbid water, with concentrations
600 mg l 1, identical to the values measured over mud banks in between 360 mg l 1 and 600 mg l 1 but with an increase in
French Guiana (Froidefond et al., 2004, Loisel et al., 2009; Van- 2002–2003 for the entire region and a decrease in 2008 and 2010
trepotte et al., 2011).The first transect (Fig. 6, transect A-B) is po- for the northern part of the transect.
sitioned to visualise mud-bank migration in French Guiana (Van-
trepotte et al., 2013). Two mud banks, identifiable by the strong
contrast in their sediment concentration (up to 600 mg l 1) 4. Discussion
compared to interbank areas (less than 150 g l 1) migrate in the
Macouria and Kaw regions at a mean speed of 2.1 km y 1. While 4.1. Fate of the Amazon mud supply and implications for coastal
this distinction is less clear in the Pointe Béhague region (Fig. 6, geomorphology
transect C-D) due to the almost permanent presence of fluid mud,
a migrating highly turbid plume is identifiable and associated with SPM variations throughout a year in the mouth of the Amazon
a mud bank moving at a mean speed of 1.6 km y 1. River are relatively complex with the significant influence of two
Similarly, the coastal waters between Cabo Orange and Cabo to four forcing components, depending on the area (Fig. 5). This
Cassiporéare very turbid (Fig. 6, transect E-F). However, two mud complex situation leads to a multi-seasonal sedimentary dynamic
banks migrating at a mean speed of 5.2 and 5.8 km y 1 are visible pattern (Supplementary data, Figure A1). Continental forcing re-
in the latter region. Another mud bank was found to migrate be- lated to the river itself is believed to drive the SPM variations in
tween 2000 and 2004–2005 in the western part of Cabo Orange at the mouth because of the strong water discharge, which pushes
a mean speed of 2 km y 1. This lower migration speed can be saline water 100–200 km offshore. Oceanic forcing may also con-
related to: (1) a bias in calculation due to the restricted time tribute to SPM dynamics through resuspension of fine sediment in
window taken into account; (2) the slowing down of the mud the water column under the control of winds, tides and currents,
bank migration rate in the vicinity of the Oyapock River, probably but the relative importance of these agents in relation to con-
reflecting the ‘hydraulic groyne' effect of strong river flow on the tinental forcing in the mouth of this large river is still to be as-
alongshore migration of mud banks (Anthony et al., 2013). This sessed. Tides have not been considered in this study because of the
aspect is further evoked below. These features detected from our seasonal and pluri-annual timescale analysis but they should be
results can be associated with mud banks already identified by taken into account in further studies because of their significant
Allison et al. (2000) south of Cabo Orange. These authors have role in the mouth and over the entire coastal zone of the Amazon
estimated a maximum bank migration rate of approximately (Anthony et al., 2014). The large tides (up to 8 m at spring tides) in
1.4 km y 1 based on the space between mud banks and 210Pb this area influence mixing of the water column and the re-
analysis of mud bank cores, but the time integration of their as- suspension and transport of fine sediment. Short-term tidal cycles
sessment is not detailed. This difference in migration rates be- such as diurnal and fortnightly could be analysed to obtain a more
tween our study and that of Allison et al. (2000) could be due to detailed picture of SPM variation in the river mouth and more
the different methods employed. By estimating the position of particularly in the offshore estuarine frontal zone where our work
mud banks in 1996, based on migration rates calculated in this has highlighted a lack of correlation between SPM concentration
paper, the mud bank migrating at 5.2 km y 1 could be one of the and continental/oceanic forcings.
two mud banks observed by Allison et al. (2000). The second mud The results of our study can be synthesized in conceptual maps
bank migrating at a mean speed of 2 km y 1 cannot be associated (Fig. 7) that summarize the sediment dynamics and forcing in-
with the mud bank already described by Allison et al. (2000), fluences. The patterns deriving from these are important in con-
except if the mean migration rate was faster than observed, tributing to a better understanding of the geomorphic status of the
reaching an approximate speed of 5 km y 1. Even though the coast. Fig. 7 depicts coastal areas in accretion or in erosion in the
latter hypothesis tends to plead for a possible bias in the mean beginning of the 1990 s (Nittrouer et al., 1991) and the sedimen-
speed calculation, a combination of the two hypotheses should tary facies distribution in the 1980 s (Kuelh et al., 1986). The main
explain the observed differences. geomorphic features and sedimentary processes highlighted in
Other major rivers can produce a hydraulic-groyne effect that our study, and discussed in the following, are detailed for two
slows down mud migration on the eastern part of their mouths. focus areas: the Amazon-Cabo Norte region, and from Maraca Is-
This effect is visible with the presence of a constant turbid zone on land to the Capes region.
the coast updrift (eastern side) of the Approuague River estuary Strong and constant SPM values (i.e. 4400 mg l 1) have been
and the afore-mentioned Oyapock River estuary (Fig. 6, transects highlighted over three areas: one offshore of Santa Rosa bay, one
C-D and E-F) that can be linked to the continuous presence of on the south bank of the Jurapari Channel along Marajo Island, and
muddy sediments. Minor rivers such as the Mahury or Cayenne the last one offshore of Cabo Norte, northward of the North
Rivers do not exert the same hydraulic effect (Fig. 6, transect A-C) Channel (Supplementary data, Figure A1 and Fig. 7c). These areas
due to their low water discharge, which is apparently too weak to are located on both sides of the main stream of each channel,
affect mud bank migration. which are preferential areas for sediment accumulation (Kuehl
Three other regions were analysed to follow up fluid mud et al. (1982) for the North Channel). These areas with strong and
transport from the mouth of the Amazon. The first one is located constant SPM values could highlight the presence of shoals gen-
40 km offshore south of Cabo Cassiporé (Fig. 6, transect G-H) and erated by accumulation of sediment supplied by the Amazon River.
shows a significant increase in SPM of approximately 2–10% a year Parts of these high SPM concentration areas are negatively
between 2000 and 2013. This trend is, however, only explained by correlated with Amazon River discharge. This negative correlation
an abrupt increase in turbidity in 2013. The second trend area is may underline the offshore flushing of sediment by the strong
located seaward of Maraca Island (Fig. 6, transect I-J). The waters Amazon outflow, and, thus, an SPM decrease when the Amazon
E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62 59

Fig. 7. (a) Map of coastal areas in accretion or in erosion from the mouth of the Amazon to Cabo Orange (modified, after Nittrouer et al., 1991). (b) Map of the bottom
sediment distribution from the river mouth to Cabo Orange (modified, after Kuelh et al., 1986). The main geomorphic features and sedimentary processes from the river
mouth to the Cabo Norte area (c) and from Maraca Island to Cabo Orange (d). For a better visualization areas with more than one forcing agent are dashed.

water discharge is high. of more than 10% in SPM concentration along Cabo Norte in the
The shallow depths ( o 5 m) of the Cabo Norte and Santa Rosa shape of a spit is detected (Fig. 4d) from 2000 to 2014. This spit is
Bay regions render field studies difficult, explaining the lack of more than 100 km long and approximately 20 km wide, and
geological or sedimentological data for these shoals. An increase stretches along the strong SPM concentration area associated
60 E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62

with shoals (Fig. 7c) and the 5 m bathymetric contour (Fig. 2b). region since the 1990 s to determine whether the afore-mentioned
The increase in SPM from 2003 to 2013 throughout the Cabo increase in Amazon sediment discharge has had an impact on the
Norte region (Fig. 6) could be associated with the progradation coastline or not. In 2013, the increase in Amazon sediment dis-
of shoals towards the North Channel of the Amazon. This phe- charge seemed to be limited to the coastal waters of Maraca Island
nomenon may be associated with the increase in Amazon River (Fig. 4 and Fig. 6).
sediment discharge from 1995 to 2007 calculated by Martinez
et al. (2009). A significant increase in SPM north of Cabo Norte, 4.3. Mud bank migration
seaward of Maraca Island, is also detected since 2008 and could
be related to this increase in the Amazon River sediment dis- Variations in SPM concentration are driven by continental and
charge but with a certain temporal shift driven probably by es- oceanic forcing, but these variations seem to be mainly seasonal
tuarine processes in the river mouth and sediment transport (Fig. 4). No significant inter-annual correlations between SPM
processes northward of the mouth. concentration and forcing were revealed by our work. Similar re-
sults were reported by Loisel et al. (2014) for coastal waters off
4.2. Sediment dynamics in the coastal waters of northern Amapá the Mekong River, which is also characterized by heavy mud dis-
charge. The absence of correlation may be due to: (1) the length of
Sediment supplied by the Amazon River and currents gener- the time series analyses (14 years) which may be too short, and
ated during the hydrological cycle of this river's discharge strongly (2) the multiple influences of forcing agents for a same area which
control the dispersal of suspended and sea bottom sediments ei- increases the complexity of the inter-annual SPM variation.
ther by flushing or by favouring the concentration of suspended The significant variations in SPM concentration shown in
and deposited sediments in specific areas. However, North of Cabo Fig. (4) are thus very likely associated with another phenomenon,
Norte, the influence of the Amazon River on resuspension and the migration of muddy sediment on the sea bottom. The near-
sediment transport decreases (Curtin and Legeckist, 1986; An- shore accretion in the Cabo Norte region (Figs. 4 and 6) can be
thony et al., 2014), relinquishing command to oceanic forcing. linked to the transport of fluid mud layers or to the migration of
The significant correlation of SPM concentration in coastal wa- mud banks reported by Vantrepotte et al. (2013) from French
ters near Maraca Island with wind speed can be related to the fact Guiana. The formation of discrete mud banks, visible along the
that the Maraca Island region is situated in very shallow waters, less Guianas coasts, is an important but still unanswered issue re-
than 5 m depth (Fig. 2, right panel), where wind-induced currents garding a better understanding and prediction of geomorphic
can be active in sediment resuspension processes. In such low water changes along the 1500 km of coast between the Capes Region and
depths, wave shoaling, especially over the shallow muddy substrate Venezuela. The main hypothesis is based on changes in wind in-
offshore, leads to significant loss of energy (Wells and Kemp, 1986; tensity that modulates the influence of the North Brazil Current on
Sheremet and Stone, 2003; Winterwerp et al., 2007; Soltanpour and sediment transport (Eisma et al., 1991; Allison et al., 2000; Au-
Haghshenas, 2009). This situation of SPM correlation with wind gustinus, 2004). Time series analysed in this work have not pro-
speed and not with SSWH, prevails along the coast for almost vided a clue that can confirm or invalidate this hypothesis.
100 km north of Maraca Island for water depths of 0–5 m (Fig. 7d). Walcker et al. (2015) have suggested that alternations of periods of
Offshore of this nearshore zone, the SPM concentration becomes lower and higher wave energy driven by the North Atlantic Os-
influenced by waves. Along Cabo Cassiporé, both wind speed and cillation may be responsible for the creation of bank and interbank
SSWH influence 0–5 m-deep coastal waters, which suggests that phases at the origin of the mud bank system in the region of Cabo
waves are not dampened and impinge directly on the shoreline. The Cassipore, Brazil. The period considered between two mud banks
Cabo Cassiporé region was in erosion in the 1990 s (Kuehl et al., is 10–20 years in French Guiana. Based on the analyses of the SPM
1986) and this erosion still strongly prevails (G. Brunier, pers. trend cycle variation (Fig. 6), the mud bank period calculated in
comm., 2014), supporting the relationship found in our study be- this work is also of the order of 10–20 years but closer to 10 years
tween SSWH and SPM concentration. This may highlight the im- along Cabo Orange and closer to 20 years in French Guiana. The
portance of offshore bathymetry in the extent to which waves are migration rate of mud banks along the Cabo Orange coast is twice
dampened or not. as high as that along French Guiana. The reasons for this difference
The areas only influenced by wind speed should involve a sea in periodicity are not clear and need more analysis, as they are no
bottom with a thick layer of fluid mud that dampens waves, doubt a reflection of the combined influence of various forcing and
whereas the map of shoreline facies shows coasts in erosion for geomorphic parameters on mud bank migration rates (Eisma et al.,
the entire coastline north of Cabo Norte and around Maraca Island 1991; Lakhan and Pepper, 1997; Gardel and Gratiot, 2005; Nikiema
(Fig. 7a). This erosional trend does not really match with the et al., 2007; Gardel et al., 2011; Anthony et al., 2014).
presence of fluid mud, which should dampen waves and limit Anthony et al. (2013) have discussed the impact of major rivers
erosion. Two hypotheses can be discussed. First, as mentioned on mud transit along the Amazon-Orinoco coast. Major rivers,
earlier, the study period (2000–2013) has been marked by an in- several of which debouch on this coast downdrift of the Amazon
crease in Amazon mud discharge (Martinez et al., 2009) and areas mud bank belt, should favour the persistence of muddy accretion
offshore of Cabo Norte and Maraca Island exhibit a significant in- on their updrift (east) coasts and liquefaction of the muddy sedi-
crease in SPM concentration (Fig. 4) that could be associated with ment on their downdrift (west) coasts. This phenomenon is visible
accretion. This supply of sediments, supposedly muddy, may have in Fig. 6 especially for the Oyapock (catchment size: 24,630 km2)
changed the bottom sedimentology and affected the coastal mor- and Approuague (10,250 km2) Rivers, the east sides of which
phology, reported as sandy nearly 15 years ago by Allison and showed a greater SPM concentration than their west sides even
Nittrouer (1998). The second hypothesis does not invoke a change during the passage of a mud bank. The hydraulic-groyne effect of
in coastal geomorphology. Studies realised in this area (Beardsley major rivers on mud bank migration is clear but it does not block
et al., 1995; Allison et al., 1995; Gabioux et al., 2005) show that migration when this process is considered over several years. It is
strong tidal currents may be the predominant forcing agent in tempting to identify the mud bank described by Allison et al.
explaining coastal erosion in this sector. This zone is still close to (2000) in 1986 as the one present on the east side of the Oyapock
the mouth of the Amazon to be subjected to a large tidal range River in 2004 and offshore of Pointe Béhague in 2006 (Fig. 6,
(4 6 m at spring tides). It will be interesting to study the evolution transects E-F and C-D). If this is indeed the case then this mud
of the coastal morphology in the Cabo Norte and Maraca Island bank migrated cross the Oyapock River in only two or three years.
E. Gensac et al. / Continental Shelf Research 118 (2016) 49–62 61

After the Oyapock River, and starting from Pointe Béhague, mud G8MUREFU3FP-2201-037). The authors would like to thank Jac-
banks are shorter (turbid imprints are shorter on Fig. 6) and their ques Servain for the ITCZ position index data.
migration rate is halved. No clear answer can be forwarded by our
work regarding the decrease in migration rate but the role of
major rivers, and especially the Oyapock, can be invoked. Appendix A. Supplementary material

Supplementary data associated with this article can be found in


5. Conclusion the online version at http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.csr.2016.02.009.

The massive supply of sediment from the Amazon River leads


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