PRINCIPLES OF FORMULATION AND BUILDING

BLOCKS OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

Points to be covered in this topic

_;; I SKIN CARE PRODUCTS I
::: I FACE WASH I
::: I MOISTURIZING CREAM I
:: I COLD CREAM I
:: I VANISHING CREAM I
:: IADVANTAGESANDDISADVANTAGES OFCREAM I
...
.... ANTIPERSPANTSAND DEODORANTS

: IACTIVE INGREDIENTS I
....
.... MECHANISM OF ACTION
ISKIN CARE PRODUCTS I
• A variety of skin care products exist in
n1arket.
• They fulfil a variety of functions by either
acting directly on the skin (moisturizers)
or being a cosmetically elegant vehicle for
the delivery of specific active ingredients
(sunscreens or anti-acne medicaments).
• These skin care products are categorized into three functional groups
► DRUGS: To prevent diseases by altering the structure and fu nction of
the body.
, COSMETICS: To beautify and improve the skin.
, COSMECEUTICALS: An intermediate classification for cosmetic products
that may enhance the function of the skin.

•!• SKIN CARE PRODUCTS ARE MADE AS PER BELOW SKIN

TYPES
• Normal Skin 17m :
\ caffein e'
• Dry Skin ~ ....,d~J
/ coffe~
• Oily Skin -= face I
wash ' - ,,~
......-"'
,.~
• Combination Skin I -......._ ;
~
_ ..,
• Sensitive Skin
ll--·· -. --- ~ ___ _
_,.....

IFACE WASH I
• Face wash is a facial care cosmetic used to cleanse the skin
• Helps improve skin complexion
• Helps Rejuvenates the skin
• Helps controls excessive oil
• Helps nourish the skin to make it bright and Radiant
► FORMULATION OF HERBAL FACE WASH GEL
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY IN%

Ethanolic extract of lern on 1

Ethanolic extract of nee1n 1

Ethanolic extract of aloe vera 1

Ethanolic extract of curcun1a longa 1

Carbopol 940 2

Methyl paraben 0.1

Triethanolamine 2

Propylene glycol 2

Sodium lauryl sulphate 2

Distilled water q.s.

► PROPERTIES
✓ Ethanolic extract of lemon- anti bacterial and anti oxidant property.
✓ Ethanolic extract of neem - kills acne causing bacteria.
✓ Ethanolic extract of aloe vera - coolant, soothing and moisturizer.
✓ Ethanolic extract of curcurma longa- antiseptic, anti bacterial, anti
inflammatory.
✓ Carbopol 940- gelling agent, viscosity enhancer, suspension agent.
✓ Methyl paraben- antifungal agent and preservative.
✓ Propyl paraben- antifungal and preservative.
✓ Triethanolamine- neutralizer, ph balancer.
✓ Propylene glycoJ.. hurnectants, vaporize•~ solvent.
✓ Sodium lauryl sulphate- foaming agent.
► PREPARATION
• A little quantity of water was added with preservative propylene
glycol and sodium lauryl sulphate were dissolved well
• To the above solution Carbopol 940 was added slowly and stirred well
until a gel like dispersion was obtained
• To this the extract was added one by one to get a complete gel like
consistency.
• Then triethanolamine was added finally to the mixture.
► EVALUATION OF FACE WASH GEL
• Color
• Odour
• Consistency
• Viscosity
• Spreadability
• Washability
• Foamabili ty
• Grittiness

IMOISTURIZING CREAM I
• When water is lost from stratum cor neum more rapidly than it is
received from lower layers of skin the skin becomes dehydrated.
• The dehydrated skin loses it's flexibility and appears rough.
• Creams which restore water or n1oisture & plasticizes the stratum
corneum, provides it's flexibility and makes it soft.
• These types of cream are known as moisturizing cream.

I • I
'''*'
skln h'Uits

0 -··-·
~

-
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 I
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY IN%
Stearic acid 4%
Mineral oil 8%
Lanolin 1%
Glyceryl monostearate 3%
lsopropyl myristate 2%
Glycerine
----------- 4%
Propylene glycol 4%
Triethanolamine 0.2%
Water 100%
Perfume and preservative qs
-----
► PREPARATION
• Aqueous phase along with propylene glycol, isopropyl myristate,
triethanolamine, glycerin and water heated at same temperature as oil
phase.
• Both the phases were mixed slowly with continuous stirring to form
the homogenous dispersion.
• Perfume was added when the temperature downs at 35 °C.
Preservatives added in the water phase before mixing.
•!• ADVANTAGES
• Moisturizing reduces the chances of skin problems.
• Moisturizing can reduce the appearance of other blemishes.
• Moisturizing helps your skin stay young.
• Moisturizing fights wrinkles.
• It's the perfect end to a hot shower.
• Non-irritating when applied to the skin.
• Easily water washable.
• Less greasy compared to oint1nent.
• Easy to spread on the skin's surface.
•!• DISADVANTAGES
• Stability is not as good as ointment.
• They are less hydrophobic than other semi- solid preparation, so risk
of conta1nination is high than the others.
• Skin irritation of contact dermatitis may occur due to the drug and/
excipients.
• Poor permeability of some drugs through the skin Possibility of
allergic reactions.
• Can be used only for drugs which require very small plasma
concentration for action.

ICOLD CREAM I
• It isan emulsion of water in oil (w/o) type.
• Used as moisturizer, makeup remover and cleanser.
• The main principle of cold cream involves slow evaporation of water
phase which leads to cooling sensation.
• Borax, beeswax are used as an emulsifying agent.

mo S.t1_;r '.-..:r.:)
O'
Gulc1bari ~.e. . _. --r..--l
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,

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COLD CR L.\M
COlD CR[AM
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COid cream
Sia 11 C
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► IDEAL PROPERTIES OF COLD CREAM

• Should have optimum pH (4.6-6 ).
• Consistency should be optimum
• Should not be sticky
• Should be attractive in appearance
• Penetration through epidermis of skin should be desirable.
• Must be non-irritant and non-inflammatory.
• Should give cooling effects.
► FORMULATION OF COLD CREAM
INGREDIENTS QUANTITY CATEGORY
(%W/W)
OIL PHASE
Mineral oil 45.0 Used as solvent and emollient
Beeswax 16 Thickening agent and emulsifier
-~
Aqueous phase !
Borax 1 Emulsifier and provide whiteness

Water 100
Preservative Q.S. Antimicrobial
Perfume I Q.S. Fragrance

•!• PROCEDJJRE
• Heat the mineral oil and beeswax in a jacketed vessel at 75°C and
maintain heat.
• In another container, dissolve borax and preservative in water and
heat to 75°C (Aqueous phase).
• Slowly add this aqueous phase to the mineral oil-beeswax heated oily
phase.
• Cool to 3 5 °C and add perfume.

► USES
• Typically used to cleanse the face off makeup
• Heavily moisturises dry skin.
• Can also be used as a balm for dry cracked lips.
• It can also be used as a shaving cream alternative for men.
lvANISHINGCREAM I
• Vanishing cream gets the name from the fact that it leaves no trace when
rubbed into the skin.
• These are oil in water emulsions that contains large percentages of
water and stearic acid or other oleaginous components.
• After application, the continuous phase evaporates, leaving behind a thin
residue film of the stearic acid. ,C i-
► IDEAL PROPERTIES OF VANISHING CREAM
• High melting point
• Pure whiteness
• Very little odor and low iodine number
• Rubbed easily on the skin

► FORMULATION OF VANISHING CREAM

INGREDIENSTS QUANTITY CATEGORY

(%W/W)
OIL PHASE
Stearic acid, triple 15.0%
pressed
Cetyl alcohol 0.50% Emollient, water absorptive and
emulsifying properties
· Isopropyl myristate 3.00% Non-greasy emollient
AQUEOUS PHASE
Sodium hydroxide O.lfl .%
l
Alkali - r ~,.~_.

Potassium hydroxide 0.50% Alkali

Glycerol .,.~ -·- ..,, ~,,"~·-"/
5,0% Humectant
Water 75.82 o/o Vehicle
Perfume Q.S. Fragfrance
~,J.P...reservative "
Q. s. Anti 1nicrobial
► PROCEDURE
• Dissolve the sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide in water,
add glycerol and preservative and heat to 80°C.
• In another vessel, melt the stearic acid, cetyl alcohol and isopropyl
myristate (oily phase) and beat to 75°C.
• Add the alkali solution to the melted oily phase with good agitation.
• When the mixture has cooled to about 45°C, add the perfume and
continue slow mixing until cool.
• Cover and let it stand overnight.
• Remix briefly next day before packaging.

IADVANTAGESOFCREAM I
• Creams are more acceptable to the patients because they are less greasy
and are easier to apply.
• They interfere less with skin functions.
• 0/w type of creams (superior to w/o type) can be rubbed onto the skin
more readily and are easily removed by washing. W/o can be spread
more evenly.
• 0 / w type of cream are less likely to soil clothes.
• Evaporation of water from o/w type of cream causes a cooling
sensation.

IDISADVANTAGES OF CREAM I
• Since it is a semisolid preparation and contains oil in large amounts,
some of which are inedible, hence crea1ns are not used for internal use.
• Basically creams are meant for application onto the skin
• The aqueous phase is prone to the growth of moulds and bacteria hence
preservatives should be used.
• Sometimes rancidification of oils take place.
► EVAWATION OFCREAM
• Detertnination of Ph
• Pri1nary skin it,·itation test
• Visual appearance
• Viscosity in cps v/s shear rate in sec-1. 5.
• Spreadability
• Stability studies
• Reheological studies
• Ther1nal behavior
• Saponification value
• Acid value

IANTIPERSPANTSAND DEODORANTS I
► DEODORANTS
• A deodorant is a substance applied to the body to prevent body odor
caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration in armpits, feet,
'

and other areas of the body.

• A subgroup of deodorants, antiperspirants, affect odor as well as
prevent sweating by affecting sweat glands.

► ANTIPERSPIRANTS
• Antiperspirants are typically applied to the under arms, while
deodorants may also be used on feet and other areas in the form of I
body sprays.
• In the United States, the food and drug administration classifies and
1
regulates most deodorants as cosmetics but classifies antiperspirants
as over-the-counter drugs.
•:• PROPERTIES
• It should not be irritant to the skin.
• It should not deteriorate clothing.
• It should be safe and nontoxic.
• Easy to use and adhere well on skin.
• Mask body odor with perfume.
• Absorb perspiration or inhibit the activity of gram+ ve bacteria, which
cause body 1nalodour.
•:• COMPONENTS OF SWEATS
• Ethnicity: hypotonic liquid form of blood
plasma.
...
• Acidic substance which is the degree of .._ _..,._ _...
acidity is between 4 and 6.
• It consists 1nainly of 99% water and some
mineral salts, which are sodium chloride,
potassium, a nd bicarbonate.
• It also contains inorganic compounds such as lactic acid, urea, and
ammonia which secreted by sweat glands.
✓ ODOR
• Numerous odors substances are responsible:
• Decomposition of the proteins
\ 1 f
• Lower fatty a cids, steroids and
lactones(have no smell, but they fix the
odor combined action offood
• Physical and psychologica l conditions

✓
• Individual property (dog detection)
Method to control auxiliary odor
1uk4

-
Ft

• Reduce apocrine sweating

• Remove the secretions
• Impede bacteria l growth
• Absorb body odor
IACTIVE INGREDIENTS I
• Aluminum chlorhydrate
• Alun1inun1 chloride
• Basic aluminum bromide
• Basic aluminum nitrate
• Basic aluminum iodide
• Magnesium aluminum chloride

► TYPES OF ANTIPERSPIRANT
• Aerosol
• Sticks
• Cream
1. AEROSOL
• A substance enclosed under pressure and able to be released as a fine
spray, typically by means of a propellant gas.

✓ FORMULATION
• An aerosol formulation consists of two components: the product
concentrate and the propellant.
• The product concentrate is the active drug combined with additional
ingredients or co-solvents required to make a stable and efficacious
product.
• The concentrate can be a solution, suspension, emulsion, semisolid,
or powder.

L
,,·.
II ri •.•
2. STICKS
• A sticks is a solid delivery vehicle cast in an elongated form.
• By rubbing a sticks onto a skin a variety of cosmetics ingredients can
be delivered such as fragrances, coloring agent, and emollients.
✓ ACTIVE INGREDIENT OF DRY ANTIPERSIPIRANTS STICKS
- - - -- -
; POWDER PHASE INGREDIENTS LIQUID PHASE INGREDIENTGS
Avicel Volatile silicon
I

Italian talc Isopropylan 33

L__ - -
: Ultra fine A1Cl2 Perfume
I
- -
Dry-Flo starch
I

Zn-Stearate
I
•!• CREAM
• A substance applied to the body to suppress or mask the odor of
perspiration or other body odors.
✓ ACTIVE INGREDIENT OF CREAM
• lsopropyl myristate
• Benton 38
• Ethyl alcohol
• Zirconium complex
• Silicon
• Perfume

❖ AEROSOLDEODORANJS
• A system of colloidal particles dispersed in a gas; smoke or fog or
containing a liquid or gas under pressure for dispensing as a spray or
foam: a deodorant available in aerosol cans.
IMECHANISM OF ACTION I
• Most antiperspirants contain ingredients called a luminum sa lts.
• The 1nain way in which they work is to dissolve in sweat and create a thin
coating of gel to cover over the sweat glands.
• This coating reduces the amount of sweat released onto the surface of
the skin for a number of hours after the antiperspirant is applied.
 PRINCIPLES OF FORMULATION AND BUILDING
I! . BLOCKS OF HAIR CARE AND ORAL CARE
PRODUCTS "

Points to be covered in this topic

;: IHAIR CARE PRODUCTS I
;: ICONDITIONING SHAMPOO I
: : IHAIR CONDITIONER I
:IANTI-DANDRUFF SHAMPOO I
....
.... HAIR OILS

.... CHEMISTRY AND FORMULATION OF PARA-

r
PHYLENE DIAMINE BASED HAIR DYE

... TOOTH PASTE FOR BLEEDING GUM , SENSITIVE

...
TEETH

....
.... TEETH WHITENING

-
: MOUTHWASH I
IHAIR CARE PRODUCTS I
• Hair care is an overall term for hygiene and
cosmetology involving the hair which grows from
the human scalp, and to a lesser extent facial, pubic
and other body hair.
• Hair n1ay be colored, trimmed, shaved, plucked or
otherwise removed with treatments such as waxing,
....
.__ .,
sugaring and threading.
• Hair care services are offered in salons, barbershops and day spas, and
products are available commercially for home use.
• Laser hair removal and electrolysis are also available, though these are
provided by licensed professionals in medical offices or speciality spas.

l sHAMPoo I
• A shampoo is a preparation of a surfactant (i.e. surface active material) in
a suitable form - liquid, solid or powder - which when used under the
specified conditions will remove surface grease, dirt, and skin debris
from the hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the user
, PROPERTIES OF A SHAMPOO
• It should produce a good amount of foam.
• It should be easily removed on rinsing with water.
• It should impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair.
• It should not cause any side effects/ irritation to the skin or eye.
• It should effectively or completely remove dust or soil.
• It should not make the hand rough.
, TYPES OF SHAMPOO
• Powder shatnpoo
• Liquid shatnpoo
• Lotion shan1poo
• Crean1 sha1npoo
• Conditioning Sha1npoo
• Anti- dandruff Shampoo
• Baby Shampoo
, ACTIVE INGREDIENTS OF SHAMPOO
•:• SURFACTANTS
✓ Anionic Surfactants: The hydrophilic portion carries a negative charge
which result in superior foaming & cleaning. e.g. Laurie acid, stearic acid.
✓ Non-ionic Surfacta nts: Non-ionic Surfactant have good cleansing
properties but do not have sufficient foaming power. e.g. Sorbitol este rs
(TWEENS), Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, Laurie monoethanolamide.
✓ Amphoteric Surfacta nt: Amphoteric surfactants carry positive and
negative charge they are 1nainly used as secondary surfactant & good
hair conditioners. e.g. 3-amino acid derivatives, Asparagine derivatives.
✓ Conditioning agent s: They are intended to improve manageability, feel
& lusture of hair. e.g. Lanolin, Mineral oil, Polypeptides, Egg derivatives,
Herbal extracts
✓ Viscosity modifier: They are used to improve the thickness of
compounds.
(a) Electrolytes: Ammonium chloride, Sodium chloride I
I i
(b)Natural gums: Gum Tragacanth, Gum karaya,Alginates
(c) Cellulose derivatives: Hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl
cellulose
( d)Carboxyvinyl polymers Polymer of acrylic acid cross-linked with
polyfunctional agent
✓ Opacifying & Clarifying agents: Stearyl alcohol, Propylene glycol,
Phosphates, Finely dispersed zinc oxide Milky emulsions of vinyl
poly1ners.
✓ Preservatives: Bacterial growth in shampoo can lead to breakdown of
detergent i.e. resulting in discoloration of product hence preservative
are important in product. e.g. Formaldehyde, Esters of para hyd roxy
benzoic acid
✓ Perfumes:
• Fragrance must be soluble in shampoo
• It must be compatible with shampoo i.e. not affect the viscosity &
stability. e.g. Herbal, fruity & floral fragrance.
, PROCEDURE FOR PREPARATION OF SHAMPOO
• Measure the quantity of coconut oil, olive oil, castor oil & take it in a
round bottom flask
• Potassium hydroxide dissolved in 3/4th quantity of water was added to
it, heat it in a water bath for 70-80°C with constant shaking for 1hr.
• Take remaining quantity of water and add sodium hexamethyl
cellulose, glycerine, perfume & other ingredients.
• Then mix both the solution to form a uniform shampoo.

ICONDITIONING SHAMPOO I
• Conditioning molecules contained in shampoos combine the cleansing
action with the function to impart manageability, gloss and antistatic
properties of hair.
•!• FORMULA
,._ .
Stearyl dimethyl benzyl 5.5%
ammonium chloride
l Ethylene glycol monostearate 2%
l
' Cetyl alcohol 2.5%
I

1 Water Upto 100%

!color, perfume and preservative Q.S
- -
IHAIR CONDITIONER I
• The primary purpose of a hair conditioner is to
reduce the 1nagnitude of the forces associated ~
- I

with combing or brushing of the hair.

, BENEFITS OF HAIR CONDITIONER;
• It causes the hair to feel softer and more moisturized.
• It reduce flyaway hair
• It makes the hair more manageable and easier to comb
• It increase in hair shine

•!• CATIONIC SURFACTANTS

• Quaternary ammonium compounds (quats) are the most widely used
eg. Stearalkonium chloride.
• Positive charge on the bind to negative sites on the hair surface
forming hydrophobic coating that render the hair softer and easier to
comb and reduce static charge

•!• LIPOPHILIC CONDITIONERS

• Fatty acohol sush as cetyl and stearyl alcohols are added to boost the
conditioning effects of the quaternary compounds.
• Other lipids found in conditioners include glycol distearate,
triglycerides, fatty esters, waxes of triglycerides, liquid paraffin, etc.

•!• POLYMERS
• Quaternized hydroxyl ethylcellulose polymer and copolymer of vinyl
pyrrolidone improved wet combing and reduced static charge.

•!• SILICONS
• The most widely used silicones is dimethicone.
• Some silicones are soluble in water and therefore may not be as
effective in rinse-off products it forms a hydrophobic film that render
the hair smooth, soft without greasiness.
IANTI - DANDRUFF SHAMPOO I
• Dandruff or scurf is the dry fonn of seborrhea ca pi tis as seborrhea sicca
in which the epidennis is shed in dry fla ky scales.
• Generally due to:
1. Dry skin.
2. Irritated, oily skin (seborrheic dermatitis): one of the most frequent
causes of dandruff, is marked by red, greasy skin covered with flaky
white or yellow scales.
3. Not shampooing often enough. If you don't regularly wash your hair,
oils and skin cells from your scalp can build up, causing dandruff.
4 . Psoriasis this skin disorder causes an accumulation of dead skin cells
that form thick, silvery scales.
5. A yeast-like fungus (malassezia). Malassezia lives on the scalps of
most healthy adults without causing problems. But sometimes it grows
out of control, feeding on the oils secreted by your hair follicles.

Selenium sulphide === 2.5 %

Bentonite 5%
Sodiumlauryl sulphate 35%
Water Upto 100
Color, perfume, preservative Q.S.

D
Ant i
Da n1.
Sh .t r: tiair
Serum
·1t1 ,.s.1 1
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► EVALUATION PARAMETER OF SHAMPOO
•!• DETERMINATION OF PERCENT OF SOLID CONTENTS
• A clean dry evaporating dish was weighed and added 4g of shampoo to
it.
• Evaporating dish with the shampoo was weighed.
• The exact weight of shampoo was calculated & the evaporating dish
with the shampoo was placed on a hot plate until the liqu id portion
evaporates.
• The weight of shampoo only (solids) after drying was calculated.

•!• DETERMINATION OF pH
• The pH of 10% shampoo solution in distilled water was determined
at room temperature using a digital pH meter.

•!• DETERMINATION OF VISCOSITY

• It is determined using Brookfield viscometer.
• 100ml of shampoo is taken in a beaker & spindle is dipped in it for
about 5 minutes and then reading is taken.

•!• SKIN IRRITATION TEST

• Patch test technique is used here.
• A set of 6 rabbits were used for testing each material.
• The shampoo preparations are diluted between concentrations of 8-
10% .
• Patches containing the shampoo preparations were applied & then
removed, the skin sites were noted for any changes on the surface of
skin like edema, erythenla forrnation.
• These products are then classified as mild irritant, moderate &
severe.
•:• CLEANING ACTION
• 5g of wool yarn were placed in grease, after that it was placed in 200ml
of water containing lg of shampoo in a flask
• Teinperature was maintained at 35°C.
• The flask was shaked for 4 minutes at the rate of 50 times a minute

•:• EYEIRRITATION TEST

• About 1 % shampoo solution was dripped into the eyes of 6 rats with
their eyes held open with the clips at the lid.
• The progressive damage to the rabbit's eyes was recorded at specific
intervals over an average period of 4 seconds.
• Reaction to the irritants can include swelling of the eyelid,
inflammation of the iris, ulceration, hemorrhaging and blindness.

IHAIROILS I
• The hair oils are used for dressings a nd nourishing the hairs and grace to 1

appearance of hairs.
• This preparations is generally used to increase the growth of hair and
remains healthy.
• The hair oil should have the fallowing properties:
✓ They should give luste r to the hair.
✓ Retain them soft and flowing.
✓ Increase their growth.

✓ Keep the brain cool.

✓ Should not be sticky.

wow
.'.',Qt,;D
:. P.01
► FORMULATION HAIR TONICOIL
INGUEDIENTS QTY(%} ROLE

Aloe ven, pulp 4 Boosting scalp health

Tulsi 2 Anti - bacterial
Hibiscus 1 Control premature graying
Shikakai 2 Anti-dandruff
Coconut oil 25 Moisturize dry hair
Almond oil 60 Treat hair loss and strengthen hair
Metbi 5 Hair growth
Jasmine 1 Conditioning agent, provide good odour

► ALIERNATIVE HERBS
INGREDIENTS ALTERNATIVE
Tulsi basil
Hibiscus Amaranth leaves, amla, black tea, henna, rose maiy
Shikakai Fenugreek, rosemary, liquorice
Coconut oil Jojoba oil, argon oil, olive oil
Almond oil Grape seed oil , lemon grass oil
Jasmine Rose

► METHOD OF PREPARATION
All the dried and fresh herbs such as tulsi, hibiscus, shikakai , aloe vera
pulp and methi were weighed and grinded in the mixture and mixed in
60% of almond oil

The above content was boiled for 15min and was filtered through muslin
cloth

To the filtrate 2 So/o coconut oil was added make up the volume 100ml
 Finally small amount of flavouring agent was added to the oil and it was
placed in amber coloured bottle.

► EVALUATION OF HAIR OIL

1. SENSITIVITY TEST
• The prepared herbal hair oil was applied on 1 cm skin of hand and
exposed to sunlight for 4-5 min.
2. ACIDVAWE
a) Preparation of 0.1 molar solution: Weighed 0.56 gm KOH pellets
dissolve in 100ml of distilled water and stirred continuously. The
prepared 0.1 molar KOH solution was filled in the burette.
b) Preparation of sample: 1 O ml oil was measured and dissolved in 50ml
of 1: 1 ethanol and ether mixture and shake it vigorously. Then 1ml of
phenophthalein solution was added and titrated with 0.1 molar KOH
solution.

3. SAPONIFICATION VALUE

10ml of ethanol : ether mixture (2:1) was added to the accurately

I

measured 1ml of oil , in 250 ml of conical flask.

I

'

' To this, 25ml of 0.5 N alcoholic KOH was added and kept undisturbed for
30min and flask was cooled.

This solution was titrated against O.SN HCL using phenolphthalein

indicator

....... - ~ C""I"'"" '-

Similarly, the blank t~tration was performed without taking oil

• Amount of KOH in 1ng used was calculated using formula,
• Saponification value = 56 .1 (B - S}N/W
• Where,
✓ B = volu1ne in 1111 of standard HCl required for the blank
✓ S = volurne in 1111 of standard HCI required for the sample
✓ N = nor111ality of standard HCI
✓ W = weight of the oil taken in gm for the test

4. pH TEST
• pH meter is used for the determination of pH of herbal oiJ.

5. VISCOSITY
• Ostwald's viscometer is used for the determination of viscosity.

6. SPECIFIC GRAVITY
• Specific gravity bottle was rinsed with distilled water, dried in hot air
oven for 15min, cooled, capped, weighed and was noted as "a".
• Now the same specific gravity bottle was filled with the sample,
capped and again weighed and noted as "b".
• Weight of the sample per ml was determined by subtracting the
weights (b-a).
CHEMISTRY AND FORMULATION OF PARA·PHYLENE
DIAMINE BASED HAIR DYE
► HAIRDYE
• Hair dye or hair color is a chemical tool which is 11 !1 ~~
-· '
used to change the color of a person's hair
• They are used to change the color of gray hair, a
,'l .m.~ -,,i
It,
,, J HA IR
~

sign of an older age.

• Now in current trend younger people use hair :JQ
COLOUR
.
SHAMPOO
' ~
,~
·ft_ ~
. ! ; : .~ .;
>:iJ;:: .
color as a trend. - ll 1:•• ··-
,,,•
- I • •'

► IDEAL PROPERTIES OF HAIR COLOR

• Not injure hair shaft
• Non-irritant & free from sensitization
• Not have systemic toxicity
• Color of dyed hair: stable to physical factors
• No effect of shampoos, brilliantines, setting lotions on the dyed hair.
• Stable in the formulation sold in market
• Color hair without reducing natural gloss Not change the texture of
hairs

► PARA-PHYLENE DIAMINE
• This derivative of aniline, aromatic amine, is a colourless solid when
pure but are partially oxidized and appear yellowish.
• Some misinformation has led to PPD being described as a black
mineral from the bank of the River Nile.
• This gave PPD an undeserved distinction as being natural.
• Paraphenylenediamine {PPD) is a chemical substance that is widely
used as a permanent hair dye.
• PPD is used in hair dye because it is a permanent dye that gives a
natural look, and the dyed hair can also be shampooed or penned
without losing its colour.
• It is a white crystalline powder
t . TEMPORARY HAIR COLOR
• Ten1porary hair color is available in various product for.m s including
rinses, sham poos, gels, sprays, foams.
• This type of hair color is typically used to give brighter, more vibrant
shades or colors such as orange or red, that may be difficult to achieve
with semi-permanent and permanent hair color.
• These colorants do not penetrate into cortex or medulla.
• As such the dye is easily removed with shampoo so known as
ten1porary hair color
•:• HAIR CRAYON __. __. _. . . . . ·r r
•~ - - ~...-.~"!,. ,_, ..

INGREDIENTS QTY "

Triethanolamine 70%
Glycerol monolaureate 5.5°/o
--
t.;QRI

GAR eR COll'
Gum tragacanth 2.5% Color HI~
naturals . ·:-:
Stearic acid 13.5% .. . v,3 -~
~ -
Beeswax 5%
~~-::~~ -
Carnauba wax 13.5% ltOVlt!SM( OKA.m

20(qc,741)

Ozokerite 8%
Color q.s.

•!• TEMPORARY COLOR IN SHAMPOO

INGRDIENTS QTY
Water
Polyquaternium - 10
~

--
-~
~

50.10 %
1.50%
-
Methyl paraben 0.15%
Propylene glycol 2%
Disodium coscamido propionate 15%
Lauramide DEA 2%
PEG-5 hydrogenated tallow amine 4%
Color 1%
2. SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOR
• Differ forn1 color shampoo with respect to time
• Give stronger & more permanent coloration to hair
• So1ne colors are ren1oved in 4 -8 shampooings.
• Dyes used are: Nitropbenylenediamine,
Nitroaminopheols, Aminoantbraquinones.
• Mixture is prepared before preparing color shades.
• Should be studied on white wool or hair.
• Semi hair color has no Ammonia.
I

INGREDIENTS QTY
Basic dye Less than 1 %
Cetyl trimethyl amonium chloride - 30 4%
Oleth- 20 0.25%
Cetostearyl alcohol 3%
Glyceryl sterarate /PEG - 100 stearate 3%
Triethnolamine To adjust pH upto 8
Preservative q.s.
Perfume q.s.
Deionised water Upto 100%

3. PERMANENT HAIR COLOR

• All "permanent" hair color products and lighteners
contain both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an
alkalizing ingredient as part of their ammonia or an
ammonia substitute.
• The purpose of this is to: -
✓ Raise the cuticle of the hair fiber so the tint can •
penetrate,
✓ Facilitate the formation of tints within the hair fiber,
✓ Bring about the lightening action of peroxide.
•> BASE FOR OXIDATION HAIR DYE
INGRDIENTS QTY
lsopropanol --
7.5% .

Oleicacid 22%
Coconut diethanolamide 10%
A1nmoniu1n 6.6%>
Deionised water q.s. to 100

4. NATURAL PERMANENT DYE

• Now a days, plant materials are used e.g. henna leaves Infusions,
decoctions of plant 1naterials are used.
• The paste of powder of henna leaves prepared in hot water.
• After cooling it is applied with stiff brush & allow to dry.
• Henna contains lawsone (2 - hydroxy- 1,4 - napthaquinone)
NATUR
.-.-- ~
. .
I

t
..
t
~
-.-:-=_
' - 'J

O(Oi,,,1(,1.1 '\J>":l,l.l U

~ GELCOLOUR

---·-

~
loRALCAREPRooucrs l
• Oral care products are the products that are used to cleanse the oral
cavity, freshen the breath, and maintain good oral hygiene.

ITOOTH PASTE I
• Toothpaste is a paste or gel dentrifrice used with a toothbrush as an
accessory to clean and maintain the aesthetics and health of the teeth.

► INGREDIENTS OF TOOTH PASTE

•!• ABRASIVE
• These are used to remove food debris and residual stains of the teeth
& to polish the teeth surface.
• Eg: Precipitated calcium carbonate, Dibasic calcium phosphate,
Tricalcium phosphate, Calcium pyrophosphate, Insoluble sodium
metaphosphate, Anhydrous dibasic calcium phosphate, Hydrated
alumina

•!• DETERGENTS & OTHER FOAMING MATERIALS

• These are used in toothpaste for their cleansing action These materials
lower surface tension, thereby promoting penetration of paste & helps
in removal of deposits & debris.
• Eg Sodium lauryl sulphate, Magnesium lauryl sulphate, Sodium lauryl
sarcosinate, Sodium lauryl sulphoacetate, Dioctyl -sodium
sulphosuccinate, Monoglycerides Sulphates Sulphonates

•:• HUMECTANTS
• Humectants in toothpastes are used to prevent their drying out
• They also impart some plasticity to toothpastes.
• Eg: Glycerin Propylene glycol Sorbitol solution
•!• BINDING AGENTS
• Solid & liquid phases of toothpaste tends to separate in the absence of
binding agents particularly during storage.
• Binding agents disperse, swell or absorb water to form viscous liquid
phases.
• Eg: Natural gun1s (Gum Arabic, Gum tragacanth) Cellulose derivatives
(Carboxy 1ned1ylcellulose, Sodium carboxymethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl
cellulose) Starch ethers Synthetic resins

•!• SWEETENING & FLAVOURING AGENTS

• These are the most important ingredients in toothpaste as they have
great influence on the acceptance of the product.
• Eg: Saccharin sodium (0.05-0.3%) Chloroform Peppermint Spearmint
Coriander Caraway Anise Eucalyptus
•!• MINOR INGREDIENTS
• Titaniun1 dioxide
• pH regulators
• Cellulose ethers
• Carragheen
,
'
FORMULA
calcium carbonate 60g
Glycerine 20g
Tragacanth powder 2g
Sodium lauryl sulphate 2g
Saccharine 0.5g
Peppermint oil 0.S1nl
Methyl paraben lg
Propylparaben lg
Water 15ml
► PROCEDURE
• Take half the quantity of water, add tragacanth powder & heat it in a
water bath to get a gel.
• To the retnaining quantity of water, add glycerine, sodium lauryl
sulphate, preservative & mix it thoroughly to get a clear solution.
• Weigh the required quantity of saccharin and calcium carbonate ,
solution & mix it with the help of mortar and pestle.
• To this powder, add gum tragacanth & mix well.
• Add glycerine, preservative & sodium lauryl mixture to it and triturate
uniformly to get a paste.
• Finally add flavouring agent & triturate well.
• Transfer to a narrow mouthed plastic tube, seal & label.

, EVALUATION OF TOOTH PASTE

•!• DETERMINATION OF HARD & SHARP EDGED ABRASIVE PARTICLES
• The paste was extruded about 15 to 20cm length from collapsible tube
of each sample on a butter paper.
• Then all the samples were tested by pressing it along it's entire length
by a finger for the presence of hard & sharp edged a brasive particles.
❖ DETERMINATION OF SPREADABILITY
• About lg of each sample was weighed and placed at the centre of
glass plate & another glass plate was placed over it carefully.
• Above the glass plates, 2kg weight was placed at the centre of plate, ·
avoid sliding of plate.
• The diameter of the paste in cm was measured after 30 minutes.
• The experiment was repeated 3 times & the averages was reported for
all the samples.
•:• DETERMINATION OF FINENESS;
• A sample of 10g was accurately weighed and placed in a 100ml
beaker.
• To this, 50ml of wa ter was added & allowed to stand for 30minutes
with occasional stirring until the toothpaste was completely dispersed.
• This solution was passed through 150micron standard sieve & sieve
was washed with water.
• After washing, the residue remained on sieve was collected & dried in
an oven at 105°C.
• After drying, the sample was collected carefully & weighed
• Fineness was calculated by using the following fonnula;

Ml
Percentage by mass= MZ. 100
•!• DETERMINATION OF pH
• Take 10g of toothpaste in 150ml beaker.
• Add 10ml fres hly boiled & cooled water and stir well to make a
thorough suspension.
• Determine the pH of suspension using pH meter.

•!• DETERMINATION OF FOAMING POWER

• To 5g of sample, 10ml of wate r was added & covered with a watch
glass, allowed to stand for 3 0 min to disperse toothpaste in water
• The contents of the beaker was stirred & slurry was transferred to a
250ml graduated measuring cylinder, ensure that no foan1 was
produced & no lump went into the cylinder.
• The content of the cylinder was adjusted to 50ml by adding sufficient
water& temperature was maintained at 30°C
• Then the cylinder was stoppered & shaken it 12 times and the
cylinder was allowed to stand for 5 min and the vohune of foan1 was
noted for all sam pies.
• Foaming power = V1 - V2
 ► TOOTHPASTE FOR SENSITIVITY
Potassium -nitrate
-:; ..... ~':":'' ,.
- - w,r"'
• 1,•IfJ•
~:·t,~
.~ d~ 100/ow/w
~
.·, -
Glycerin .,, . ,,r-1' 250/ow/w
.I.LI .J .. ·- , -· - ~~

Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan manolaurate it 20/ow/w

Silica 24%
Flavour 1%
Sodium saccarbine 0.2%
Water

~--- __ - ,,,,.

Sensitive ~
.. ... _ _, _ .•~,
--~
0
• ' ·
1000/ow/w

. . . , . ,JoolhP'•I• ~
~
s~~9=-~ Y ~ ~
ITEETH WHITENING I
Glycerin 250/ow/w
Silica abrasive
Propylene glycol
Sodium bicarbonate
20°/4w/w
17.60/ow/w
12°/4w/w
:r
Water 6%w/w
Propylene glycol 600 30/ow/w
Sodium carbonate 20/ow/w
Silica thickener 2 o/ow/w
Sodium lauryl sulphate 1.7%.w/w
color 100%w/w

M P.i
AOTIYATID
...............
OHAROOAL
IMOUTH WASH I
• Mouthwash con tain antibacterial agents, alcohol, glycerin, sweetening
agent, flavouring agent and colouring agents.
• They are also used in oral mucous disease to treat mouth infections and
to maintain oral hygiene.
• Mouthwashes are used after diluting with warm water.

► FORMULA
Zinc sulphate 20ml
Zinc chloride 10ml
Dil. HCI 10ml
Compound tartrazine solution 1ml
Chloroform solution 500ml
Water Up to 100ml

• • ••

USIB&4.: GERM I CHECK+

COOL MINT
LN di•-"