Textiles — Woven fabrics — Construction — Methods of analysis — Part 1: Methods for the presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting Texts — Tssus — Construction — Mithodes ¢anayse — Porte 1: Représentaton cu dessin danmure, ds rentrage, du plguage av peigne et du levage First edition — 1984-03-15, UDC 677.068: 677,017.35 : 008.68 Ref, No, 180 7211/1-1984 (6)Foreword '50 (the Intemational Organization for Standareation) is # wordwide federation of ational standards bodes ISO membe: bodes). The wok of developing Iteration ‘Standards le coried cut through ISO tochical comattoos. Every member ody intrested ina subject for whch a technical cometoe has been authorized hast ‘ht tobe repreented on that comrates International oranations. goverment {nd non-governmental i ison with ISO, ato take pert inthe work, rat international Standards adopted by the tchnicalcomtows are cecated 10 the member bodies lor approval belore ther acceptance es International Standards by th 180 Couna. Inerrational_ Standard 1S07211/1 was. developed by Technical Commitee |S0/TC 38, Textiles, ond was crcuated to the member bodies in November 1802 thas beon approved by the mamber bodies ofthe flowing counties: ‘vst ran Romania Bo'gium og South Aca, Rep, of rex eae Span hay Sweden Jarreica Tanzania ‘Japan| Traland Korea, Rep. of Tuner Mosca United Kingdom Neteands user New Zealand Venezuela Poland Portugal ‘The mamber body of the faiowing country axressed dsapproval ofthe document on toarmial grounds France © Iterations Orgaintion for Standerdiaton 1884 @INTERNATIONAL STANDARD 180.7211/1-1984 (E) Textiles — Woven fabrics — Construction — Methods of analysis — Part 1: Methods for the presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting 0 Introduction Ahough drafting, dating and tting pins a not strictly within the resins of fare anal, hasbeen thought con ‘oriont to neo methods for rar presentation inthis part ot this Iteraional Standard. Nothing wathin this document re ‘lade the use af shortened methods of designing used exten ‘ly on Jacque svucures where the design i coloured in Sol shades and supped wth @ writen sires of eareutng Instructions 10 apply toughout with only bare detals of “The atonon of uses of this part of ISO 721 is drown to 180 2950 and 1S0 3872. The tre used itis document ae ‘elioed in 150 3572, 1. Scope and field of application This part of 1507211 deals with recording of fabric weaves and ‘makes provision for shonin in reltion tthe wnave repeat the ‘Suen in whieh yarns Of diferent charactor ate toad. A ‘ethod is aso provid fr the presentaon of the warp and ‘wot yarn arangoment. ‘This port of 150.7211 apple to ol woven fabs, neloding compound fais in which interlacing of the warp and welt threads fs accompanied by exosing of war treads NOTE — ony ara, 294m x 4m sable ait Interraton! Standort, the flaming sae shou be cnr 1) Anat fr wave, heaping hermes rand Use ha emoved tne 0 tain tha manent of war and ‘tet per ont mn rin Soa 2. References 180 2958, Tevales — Woven fatic descriptions 180 3572, Texties ~ Waves ~ Detinions of genera terms 2. Principle ‘The weave repeat shown on design paper is adopted as the resne for showing the woave ofthe fabri, and provision ‘made inthe repeat for showing the deposiion of tfront ‘sain lation othe weave when thereis mare than oe yarn Inthe warp or wot. tobular method is wed for ndcatng the ‘quence of colour in a colour pattem. The cating, daring Sn fing plane are shown on the same design papa as the ‘weave repeat and re rite toby conventional methods 4 Apparatus 4.4 Design paper (see 1S0 3572 4.2. Low power magnifier such ata counting ales. 43. Forceps 44 Scissor 45. Dissocting needio 5 Test specimen Select specimen from the fabric conning several completa repeats ofthe weave 6 Procedure Analysis ‘dent the face, warp and wet. Decide whether to renowe the wat om the warp o vice verse. Fou 2 tinge of heads on two perpendicular sides of tho soecimen by fraying treads unt ange of aout tem engeh iS obtained. With the aid of the dissecting nese (45), ldo ‘Ovaads paral 0 one fngod ia inorder to acta sors ing ofimeracing osm 6.2. Continuo moving Oeods pro (essay fom the fore, exemsring od recording the te180 7211/1-1984 (E) locing of each theead unl, from a rapes of the interlacing of both warp and welt, cane stated that a complete weave repeat has been obtained, necessary, superficially singe and ighay shave one of the faces of the fabri to ingrove the crt a the interlacing NOTE — in sre cates, whee the weave pet cin be cbsined ‘Secy by val exarinatin, pos wth es he rapier Fecord the weave repost, erating, doting and iting plan 3+ In, 6.3, 88nd Sand, vepire, the warp md we yarn ‘rangomant a n 66. 62 Weave repeat By convention, the vertical rows of squares oF rectangles on the design paper 1 are associated wth warp treads ens ‘and horizontal rows with weft teads or picks. Use a mark on Gexign paper to indeate the fting of ane tread (usualy @ warp endl over another. Unlos otherwise stated, a mark on design pape i xsumed to Indicate an intracing ofa warp end ited over the wet. On the ‘ow occasions when this is inconvenient, indicate cial that ‘marks oo “wo! up. Show atleast ne fl peat of the weave Indicating its cimensions. ‘nis preferable to show only one reat ofthe weave: thats, Sacomtinua tho diagram whan further rows of squares in 0 {Section ae a tepetiton of the weave unit akeady recorded ‘A repeat of simple weave is shown in fig Ta. When its canvenian 10 do so, the weave repeat may be con: enced. This posible whan the weave repeat con be dvi ‘waromay or wettway into to oF more part, any of wich s ‘made by repeating 8 sb weave repeat. Indicate the sub-weave open by meone of 9 bracket ombocing the sporoprite ‘Sauares, and agaist the bracket show the numberof repeats ofthe sub-weove preceded by the multipieaion ign x. The ‘weave on figee Ta) can be condensed as shown in Eure 1). Ie may be convenient t0 use a variety of marks for expe, cdagona, vertcal or horizontal stokes) In place of edn ‘squares, partelarly when vations of notation wll sity the ‘weave constuction for exam, compound fabrics, 3 Drafting plan Draw the dating plan above the wave repeat gue 2a. A vertical row of squares representing anendin the weave epoat ‘eprecents the sama end in th crating plan. The hodzortal ‘ows inthe Grating plan represent the loom shat To represen the passage of an end though a hes eye on @ partclar shat, insert a oss nthe square a the intersection ‘ofthe vertical ow reereserting the end and th horizontal row roprosrtig that shat. The dating plan may be condense, ‘when posable, bn the manner desarbed for weave ropeet tgure 21. 64 Denting ‘Show the dorting betwoon the weave repeat and crafting plan ‘by masne of thick horizontal lines running completly 2roes the row of squares that represent the warp ends that are 10 ‘ss throught the dent igure 2a. When condoned present tion ofthe weove repeat and drting pan makes his impos ‘bl, put the denting structions inthe margin betwean the peat andthe plan gure 2 65. Lifting plan ‘raw the iting plan to tho ight handed of ho woave roost ‘A havigntal row of squares representing a pik in the weave ‘repeat represents the same pickin thelitng plan. The vera ‘ows in the iting agrem covespond to shalt, the afthand, ‘shaft i the agro boing the same es the ower shaft inthe ‘rating cagram: the association between the two maybe ind ‘ated bythe right-angle Ine a shown in figure 3. The eso ‘ton between the other het nthe two plane may bended ‘ria. The ting plan may be condensed when possible in the manner deserbed for 8 weave repeat. Warp and weft yarn arrangement ‘The warp and wot yarn rangement may be dicated bythe ‘method prescibed for showing lift yarns, but gaeraly this is not posse, ether because the cour and. weave ‘pets are nt identical in ie, or because they cannot be cn ‘ened dently, ‘Show the warp and wat eolour patterns in tables, 8 in ‘Sgure 4m which each clout reperented by ¢hargontal ine ofthe table and the number of threads in groups of the same {olor are shown for consecutive groups in correct sequence ‘2270s the page. Ifa sequence of groups i repeated within the ‘colour pate, tis need rot be shown i fal. The sequence ‘may be indicated by enclosing it between vercal ines whose {nds are ood by 2 bracket embracing the sequence. Show ‘the romber of repeats of the sequence atthe point of the bracket. Enclose the colour pattem By double vertical lines, {pine a ther ower nds by & bracket, and for tho warp Sow {the numbor of repeats inthe with of te eth atthe point of ‘he bracket. The fret thread ofthe colour pattern corresponds tothe fst end inthe weave repeat. Show pat repost, of repening colow sequences in the warp atthe sides of the {oth a the sides ofthe giogram to the left and vight ofthe ‘ube vericl nes which Bound the colour paar.180 7211/1-1984 (E) Figure 18) ar180 7211/1-1984 (E) [ 3 onde pa cent me = 2 Tal. 1 [2] = ‘elon [2 zt pal TaP | mole: owes Pa io) 8 nite Gord | 2 eIeet 378 Beam? wae bitte] i m2 mine 2 2 Tow a 2028 Tou Figure 4 — Warp and welt yarn arrangement180 7211/7-1984 (E} TTT [TT TT Figure 25) — Condensed version of figure 2a) Figure 2a) — Drafting and denting plane (of simple weave repeat