MADRID

TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Anthony Ham

0-title-contents-pk-mdr3.indd 1 13/09/2012 4:47:20 PM

 In This Book

QuickStart 16

Need to
Know
Before You Go
Your Daily Budget
Budget less than €80
X Dorm beds €15–20; hostal (budget hotel)
doubles €50–70
Arriving in Madrid
Most visitors arrive at Aeropuerto de Bara-
jas, 12km northeast of the city. There are
four terminals: T4 is separated from the oth-
ers, but connected by bus and metro. Train
travellers will arrive at either Chamartín or
Getting Around
Need to Know 17

Madrid has an efficient and comprehensive

public transport system. Easily the best
way to get around town is by the metro, an
excellent network that covers the whole city.
The bus system is also outstanding. Conven-
18

Madrid
Neighbourhoods
Malasaña & Chueca
(p100)
Retro Malasaña and gay
Chueca rank among the
city’s liveliest areas;
there are few sights but
Neighbourhoods 19

Worth a Trip
E Top Sights
Plaza de Toros &
Museo Taurino

Guide
For more information, Atocha stations. iently, both operate under the same ticketing restaurants and nightlife Ermita de San Antonio
see Survival Guide (p145) X Three-course menú del día lunches system; it works out cheaper to purchase more than compensate. de la Florida
From Aeropuerto de Barajas the ten-trip Metrobus ticket (€12) than indi- Sol, Santa Ana &
Plan sightseeing around ‘free admission’ San Lorenzo de
Currency
X
times Destination Best Transport vidual tickets. If you know your address and Huertas (p50) E#
El Escorial
Euro (€) Museo
the address of where you want to go, visit The city’s beating heart,
Plaza Mayor & Royal EMT Airport Bus & Lázaro
Midrange €80–200 the website of the Sistema de Información with relentless nightlife,
Madrid metro (line 2) Galdiano
Language X Double room in midrange hotel €75–150 de Transportes de Madrid (www.ctm-madrid. live music, bars and
Sol, Santa Ana & EMT Airport Bus &
Spanish (Castellano)
X Lunch and/or dinner in decent restaurants Huertas metro (line 2)
es/como_ir_a/madrid/como_ir_a_madrid1 restaurants to go with # E
.jsp) to find the quickest way to get there. some of Madrid’s Plaza de Toros &
Visas X Use discount cards to keep costs down La Latina & Lavapiés EMT Airport Bus & prettiest streetscapes. Museo Taurino

w
Generally not required for stays of up to metro (line 2) m Metro
90 days (not at all for members of EU or Top End more than €200 El Retiro & the Art EMT Airport Bus Twelve colour-coded metro lines criss-cross

w
Schengen countries). Some nationalities X Double room in top-end hotel from €150 Museums central Madrid (www.metromadrid.es), Salamanca (p84)
need a Schengen visa. X Fine dining for lunch and dinner Malasaña & Chueca Metro (lines 8 & 10) although only numbers 1 to 10 are likely to E# Upmarket, quiet
be of use to travellers. All Madrid neighbour- Ermita de San neighbourhood; fine
Money hoods have convenient stations, and the Plaza Mayor & Antonio de la boutiques, designer 1 1
From Estación de Atocha
ATMs widely available. Credit cards Useful Websites only place you’re likely to need to walk any Royal Madrid (p22)
Florida tapas bars and trendy 1
1
1
1

accepted in most hotels, restaurants and EsMadrid.com (www.esmadrid.com) Tourist Destination Best Transport distance (and it’s a lovely walk!) to get where The heart of old Madrid food stores make this 1 1

Your keys to under-

1 1
shops. office’s website. Plaza Mayor & Royal Metro (line 1) you need to go is along Paseo del Prado, with with Madrid’s grandest Madrid’s home of style.

w
1 1

Madrid metro stations at either end. medieval architecture Palacio

E Top Sights 1 1

Mobile Phones
LeCool (www.lecool.com) Alternative, offbeat
Sol, Santa Ana & Metro (line 1) and fabulous places to E
# Real 1 1

Local SIM cards widely available and can

and avant-garde.
Huertas J Bus eat and shop. Museo E
# Museo Lázaro Galdiano w 1
1
1
1

w
E
Plaza # Thyssen-
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com
E Top Sights
Madrid’s EMT bus network nicely comple- Parque w
1 1
be used in European and Australian mobile La Latina & Lavapiés Metro (lines 1 & 5) Mayor # Bornemisza del Buen 1 1

phones. Other phones may need to be set /madrid) An overview of Madrid with hun- ments the metro and lets you see the city as
to roaming. dreds of useful links. El Retiro & the Art
Museums
Walk
you travel around. Visit www.emtmadrid.es
Plaza Mayor E# Retiro

Turismo Madrid (www.turismomadrid. for route maps and numbers. Palacio Real Museo del El Retiro & the Art
Time Malasaña & Chueca Metro (lines 1 & 5) Prado
es) Regional Comunidad de Madrid tourist Museums (p64)
Western European (GMT/UTC plus one office site. L Cercanías Trains Spain’s golden mile of
From Estación de Chamartín

standing the city –

hour during winter, plus two hours during The short-range cercanías regional trains art with a glorious park
daylight-saving period)
Advance Planning Destination Best Transport
operated by Renfe (www.renfe.es/cercanias E
# Centro de Arte
Reina Sofía thrown in.
/madrid) go as far afield as El Escorial, La Latina & E Top Sights
Plugs & Adaptors Three months Reserve your hotel as early Plaza Mayor & Royal Metro (line 1) and they can be handy for making a quick, Lavapiés
1 1 (p38)
1 1
Madrid Museo del Prado
Plugs have two round pins; electrical current as you can. north–south hop between Chamartín and Medieval
1 1 Madrid
1 1 comes
1

is 220V/230V. Sol, Santa Ana & Metro (line 1) Atocha train stations (with stops at Nuevos
1 1 1
to1life1with1 some
1
of Centro de Arte
One month Book a table at Sergi Arola 1 1
Reina Sofía
Gastro (www.sergiarola.es), La Terraza del Huertas Ministerios and Sol). Spain’s
1 best1 tapas
1 1 and
1 1 1 1 1
Tipping Casino (www.casinodemadrid.es) or La Latina & Lavapiés Metro (lines 1 & 5) the iconic
1 1
El1Rastro
1
Museo Thyssen-
Small change (€1 per person in restaurants) Viridiana (www.restauranteviridiana.com). El Retiro & the Art Metro (lines 1 & 2) market
1 1 on 1 Sunday
1 1 Bornemisza
1 1 1 1 1
and rounding up (in taxis) is usually su՗cient. Museums mornings. Parque del Buen Retiro
One week Book online entry to the Museo
del Prado (www.museodelprado.es) to Malasaña & Chueca Metro (lines 5 & 10)

we help you decide

avoid queues on arrival.

what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods

to do it Tips for a What’s where
smooth trip

66 El Retiro & the Art Museums Museo del Prado 67 40 La Latina & Lavapiés El Rastro Sunday 41

Explore
y Top Tips 2 Vermouth Hour 5 Casa Lucas
Don’t Miss Sunday. One o’clock in the afternoon. Casa Lucas takes a sideways glance at
Top Sights f Avoid the free open-
ing hours (crowds
Local Life A busy bar along Calle de la Cava traditional Spanish tapas, then heads off
El Dos de Mayo (Goya)
Museo del Prado Goya is on all three floors of the Prado, but begin
can really spoil your El Rastro Sunday Baja. Welcome to la hora del vermut in new directions. There are a range of
visit) – Àrst thing in the (vermouth hour), a long-standing hot and cold tapas and larger raciones.
at the southern end of the ground or lower level. Madrid tradition whereby friends and The menu changes regularly as it comes
Welcome to one of the world’s premier art gal- Map p20, B3 morning is best.
In rooms 64 and 65, Goya’s El Dos de Mayo and families enjoy a post-Rastro aperitif . up with new ideas, and it pays particu-
leries. The more than 7000 paintings held in El Tres de Mayo rank among Madrid’s most f Whether you enter
www.museodelprado.es There are few more enduring 1 El Rastro This tradition is deeply engrained in lar attention to its wine list.
the Museo del Prado’s collection (although only emblematic paintings; they bring to life the 1808 from the west or north,
Madrid traditions than visiting El You could easily spend a morning inch- madrileño culture and most such bars
around 1500 are on display at any one time) are Paseo del Prado anti-French revolt and subsequent execution of tickets must be pur- 6 Taberna de Conspiradores
Rastro, believed to be Europe’s ing your way down the Calle de la Rib- are along or just off Calle de la Cava
like a window onto the historical vagaries of the insurgents in Madrid. chased from the ticket More than holding its own along-
adult/child €12/free, free largest flea market, on a Sunday. era de Curtidores that hosts El Rastro Baja.
Spanish soul, at once grand and imperious in the o՗ce at the building’s

Madrid
6-8pm Mon-Sat & 5-7pm But El Rastro is so much more side more illustrious tapas bars, this
royal paintings of Velázquez, darkly tumultuous Pinturas Negras (Goya) northern end. (Ribera de Curtidores; h8am-3pm Sun; mLa
Sun, audioguides €3.50 than a market, and is instead the
Latina) every Sunday morning. Cheap
3 Txirimiri pokey little bar at the northern end of
in Goya’s Pinturas Negras (Black Paintings) and In rooms 66 and 67, Goya’s disturbing ‘Black prelude to an afternoon of ver- Calle de la Cava Baja has a confiding
f The free ‘Plan’ lists clothes, old flamenco records, even older
Every local has their favourite place
outward-looking with sophisticated works of art h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, Paintings’ are so named for the distorted ani- mouth and tapas in the bars of La air. The food owes everything to the
the location of 50 Prado for ordering a pincho de tortilla (a
from all across Europe. 10am-7pm Sun malesque appearance of their characters. The Latina. Join the locals, and you’ll photos of Madrid, faux designer purses, regional cuisine of Extremadura (the
masterpieces and gives tapa of tortilla de patatas, the quin-
Saturno Devorando a Su Hijo (Saturn Devour- fulfil a key criteria to being consid- grungy T-shirts and household goods
mBanco de España room numbers for all tessentially Spanish potato omelette). jamón and other cured meats from
ing His Son) evokes a writhing mass of tortured major artists. ered a madrileño. are the main fare. For every 10 pieces of there are some of Spain’s best), with
But food critics and your average
humanity, while La Romería de San Isidro and junk, there’s a real gem (a lost master- well-priced wines to wash it down.
punter alike are drawn in ever-
Aquelarre (El Gran Cabrón) are dominated by the f Plan to make a couple piece, an Underwood typewriter…).
of visits as the Prado can increasing numbers to the Basque bar
7 Plaza de San Andrés
/LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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La Latina Plaza with an emphasis on quality rather
ish history transferred to canvas. It shows the traditional Spanish LATINA nada (www.delic.es; Costanilla de San Andrés 14;
C de s de Cascorro than frilly elaborations. Cured meats,
royal family in 1800 with the Fernando (later mainstays. Rud h11am-2am Fri-Sun & Tue-Thu, 7pm-2am Mon;
a cheeses, omelettes and many varia-
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see and do,

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Goya portrayed himself in the background just as summer’s evening at Delic’s outdoor ta-

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Caption 0.1 miles

neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life

neighbourhood
Make the most The insider's city
of your visit

124 Architectural Madrid 125 140 Best Live Music & Flamenco Best Live Music & Flamenco 141

1 Plaza de la Villa 4 Plaza de la designed by Juan de 7 Antigua

Best Walks Best

The Best
This compact square Cibeles Villanueva, a towering Estación de Atocha
LOOK DIE BILDAGENTUR DER FOTOGRAFEN GMBH/ALAMY ©

Architectural (p30) hosts a lovely

collection of 17th-
Madrid’s most striking
roundabout (p83) is a
figure of 18th-century
Spanish culture and an
The northwestern
wing of Atocha train
Live Music &
Madrid century Madrid stirring celebration of architect who left his station was artfully Flamenco
architecture. The use belle époque from the mark across the capital overhauled in 1992.
of brickwork and slate early 20th century. In (eg the Plaza Mayor).
2 The Walk This grand iron and
LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

spires are the most Madrid has a happening live-music scene, which
addition to the Palacio glass relic from the
Madrid may not have the Eiffel Tower, Colosseum owes a lot to the city’s role as the cultural capital
or Sagrada Família, but it is easily the rival of Paris,
distinctive characteris- de Comunicaciones 6 Caixa Forum 19th century was pre-
tics of a style known as (1917), the Palacio of the Spanish-speaking world. There’s Áamenco,
Rome or Barcelona for its astonishing breadth of Caixa Forum (p83), served while its interior
Madrid baroque (bar- de Linares, Palacio world-class jazz and a host of performers you
grand monuments. From the heart of old Madrid to along the Paseo del was converted into a
roco madrileño). Buenavista and Banco may never have heard of – one of whom may just
the showpiece architecture of 19th- and 20th- Prado, is Madrid’s most light-filled tropical gar-
de España (1891) all be Spain’s next big thing. For something more
century Spain, this walk takes you through the Span- unusual example of den. It’s a thoroughly
2 Plaza de España watch over the square. edifying, there’s opera and zarzuela.
ish capital’s splendid architectural attractions. Old Worth a

of Madrid
Madrid boasts its very own style, while the some- Towering over this
times bombastic, more often graceful, architectural square on the east side is
the Edificio de España,
monuments to the past century cut a swath through
which clearly sprang
the centre of the city and down to the Paseo del
Prado, one of Europe’s most beautiful boulevards. from the totalitar-
ian recesses of Franco’s
Start Plaza de la Villa; mÓpera imagination such is its
resemblance to austere
Finish Antigua Estación de Atocha; mAtocha Renfe
Soviet monumentalism.
contemporary architec- modern space that
Jazz music, Populart (p53)
ture. Its vertical garden, nonetheless resonates
5 Museo del Prado Best Flamenco Trip
seeming absence of with the stately Euro- Flamenco Honky Tonk (%91
The building in which pean train stations of big names have played Costello Café & Nite-
supporting pillars and Flamenco’s roots lie in Andalucía, but the top Las Tablas A smaller, 445 61 91; www.club
the Prado (p66) is beneath the fabulous art club A sophisticated
wrought-iron roof are another age. performers gravitate towards Madrid for live per- more intimate venue with
housed is itself an ar- honky.com; Calle de
unlike anything you’ll formances; keep your ear to the ground in case one consistently high-quality deco decor. (p60) venue that feels like a
chitectural masterpiece. Covarrubias 24; admis-
see elsewhere. performances. (p35) Populart A more earthy SoHo cocktail bar. (p61)
of the city’s flamenco festivals is on while you’re in sion free; h9pm-5am;
The western wing was
town. Remember also that most tablaos (flamenco Casa Patas One of Ma- (and free) venue, but the Nasti Club The essence mAlonso Martínez)
¡
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in handy lists Best Walks Madrid’s Best…

to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

148 Survival Guide Essential Information 149 150 Survival Guide Essential Information 151

Survival
Arriving in
Madrid
From Aeropuerto
de Barajas
¨ Metro (one-way €4.50;
h6.05am-2am; 15-25 min;
line 8) Runs to the Nuevos
Ministerios transport
interchange, which con-
nects with lines 10 and 6.
¨ Taxi A taxi to the centre
(around 10 minutes, de-
pending on tra՗c) costs
around €5 to €7.
From Estación
de Chamartín
¨ Metro (one-way/ten-trip
ticket €1.50/12; h6am-
1am, lines 1 & 10) From
Chamartín station to Sol
(15 to 20 minutes) with
¨ Single tickets, good for
one journey no matter Tickets &
Taxi
y Best for… Quick trips
¨ Restaurants Lunch
1pm to 4pm, dinner 8pm
Electricity Money
Currency Euro (€)
Money-Saving
Telephone Toilets
Public toilets are almost
Carlos V; h9.30am-8.30pm;
mAtocha)
Mobile Phones
how many changes you
have to make, cost €1.50
Passes across town outside peak
hour.
to midnight. ATMs Widely available; Tips
Local SIM cards are nonexistent in Madrid and ¨ Aeropuerto de
Ten-trip Metrobús ¨ Shops 10am to 2pm usually a charge on ATM ¨ Look out for free widely available and can it’s not really the done Barajas (Barajas Airport;
and can be bought at and 4.30pm to 7.30pm or cash withdrawals abroad entry at sights (see thing to go into a bar or
tickets will save you ¨ Taxis are reasonably be used in European T4; h9am-8pm; mAero-
metro stations. 5pm to 8pm. Cash Banks and building p144) cafe solely to use the toi- puerto T4)
time and money priced and charges are and Australian mobile
¨ The metro operates societies offer the best ¨ Order the menú let; ordering a quick coffee
and are sold in ma- posted on the inside of phones. Other phones
from 6.05am to 2am, chines at all metro passenger-side windows. Discount Cards rates; take your passport del día for lunch in may need to be set to
is a small price to pay. Travellers with
although there is talk stations, as well as The trip from Sol to the Credit cards Accepted in restaurants roaming. Disabilities
¨ Student cards oՖer most hotels, restaurants Tourist
of shutting it down at most newspaper Museo del Prado costs ¨ Buy discount cards Although things are
discounts of up to 50% at and shops; may need to Information
midnight. kiosks and estancos about €5. (see p149) Phone Codes slowly changing, Madrid
many sights. show passport or other The Madrid government’s
(tobacconists). ¨ Buy 10-trip travel International access remains something of
¨ You can call a taxi at ¨ If you’re over 65, you photo ID Centro de Turismo de
an obstacle course for

Guide
Buy tickets at the airport
station.
¨ Bus The Exprés Aerop-
uerto (Airport Express; www
.emtmadrid.es; €5, 40 minutes;
h24hr) runs between
Puerta de Atocha train
station and the airport.
From 11.55pm until
5.35am, departures are
from the Plaza de Cibeles,
not the train station.
connections elsewhere
via lines 2 and 3. Buy
tickets from machines at
the station.
¨ Taxi A taxi to the centre
(around 15 minutes, de-
pending on tra՗c) costs
around €10.
y Top Tip For the best
way to get to your accom-
modation, see p17.
A 10-trip ticket cards to get around code (%00)
Bus (€12) is valid on
Tele-Taxi (%91 371 21 31; may be eligible for an Tipping Small change in Madrid (%91 588 16 36; travellers with a disability.
www.tele-taxi.es) and Radio- the city (see p149) Spain country code
y Best for… Night trips admission discount to restaurants, round up to www.esmadrid.com; Plaza
the metro and EMT Your first stop for more
when the metro shuts Teléfono Taxi (%91 547 82 some attractions. the nearest euro in taxis (%34) Mayor 27; h9.30am-8.30pm;
buses. An Abono information on accessibil-
down, for those for whom 00; www.radiotelefono-taxi Día de Todos los Santos mSol) is terrific. Among
Transporte Turístico ¨ If you intend to do ity for travellers should be
metro stairs are impassa- .com) or Áag one down in Useful Numbers other services (including
ble (eg people with prams, (Tourist Ticket; some intensive sightsee- Public Holidays (All Saints’ Day) the Madrid tourist office
the street. 220V/230V/50Hz 1 November International directory guided tours of the city),
travellers with disabilities), per 1/2/7 days ing and travelling on Many shops are closed website section known as
Día de la Virgen de la inquiries (%11825) it offers free downloads
and to see a little of Ma- €8/13.40/33.40) is public transport, it might and many attractions Madrid Accesible (www
Almudena 9 November International operator of the metro map to your
drid above ground as you also possible. be worth looking at the operate on reduced hours .esmadrid.com), where you
Emergency mobile.
get around. Essential Madrid Card (%91 360
Servicio de Atención
on the following dates:
Año Nuevo (New Year’s
Día de la Constitución
(Constitution Day) 6
& reverse charges
(collect) Europe (%1008); There’s a smaller can download a list of
wheelchair-accessible
47 72; www.madridcard.com;
¨ EMT buses (www.emt
madrid.es) Travel along
Cercanías Information 1/2/3 days adult €39/49/59, al Turista Extranjero
(Foreign Tourist Assistance
Day) 1 January December
La Inmaculada Con-
rest of world (%1005)
tourist office (Plaza de
Colón; h9.30am-8.30pm; hotels, and a pdf called
y Best for… Getting child age 6-12 €20/28/34). Reyes (Epiphany or mColón), which is acces- ‘Lugares Accesibles’, a
most city routes regularly cepción (Feast of the

Tips and tricks

¨ Taxi A taxi to the centre
(around 30 minutes, de-
pending on tra՗c) costs
€25 to €35.
From Estación
de Atocha
¨ Metro (one-way/ten-trip
ticket €1.50/12; h6am-1am;
Getting
Around
Metro
y Best for… Madrid’s
metro is almost always
the best choice, with an
extensive network of lines
to San Lorenzo de El It includes free entry to Service; %902 10 21 12, 91 Three Kings’ Day) list of wheelchair-friendly
between about 6.30am Business Hours sible via the underground
and 11.30pm.
Escorial, or a quick
north–south trip between Reviews in this guidebook
more than 40 museums
in and around Madrid.
548 85 37, 91 548 80 08; www
.esmadrid.com/satemadrid;
6 January
Jueves Santo (Holy
Immaculate Conception)
8 December stairs on the corner of restaurants, shopping
centres and museums.
Calle de Goya and Paseo
¨ Twenty-six night-bus Chamartín and Atocha
train stations (with stops
don’t list business hours
¨ If you plan to visit the
Calle de Leganitos 19; h9am- Thursday) March/April Navidad (Christmas)
25 December
Dos & de la Castellana.
Visas
búhos (owls) routes
at Nuevos Ministerios
unless they differ from
Museo del Prado, Museo
10pm; mPlaza de España, Viernes Santo (Good Don’ts Smaller, bright orange
operate from 11.45pm to the following standards: Santo Domingo) Specially Friday) March/April Safe Travel
and Sol). Thyssen-Bornemisza ¨ Greet people with tourist information points ¨ Citizens or residents
5.30am, with all routes trained officers can assist Fiesta del Trabajo Petty crime and theft, the full ‘Hola, bue- can be found at the fol- of EU & Schengen coun-
¨ Banks 8.30am to 2pm and Centro de Arte Reina with contacting your em-
originating in Plaza de la ¨ The short-range
Sofía while in Madrid,
(Labour Day) 1 May with tourists as the prey nos días’ (morning) lowing locations: tries: no visa required.
Cibeles. cercanías trains operated Monday to Friday; some bassy or your family, as Fiesta de la Comunidad
the Paseo del Arte ticket of choice, is a problem in or ‘Hola, buenas
also open 4pm to 7pm well as cancelling credit ¨ Plaza de Cibeles (Plaza ¨ Citizens or residents of
by Renfe (www.renfe.es/ de Madrid 2 May Madrid, although most tardes’ (afternoon).
¨ Fares for day and night covers them all in a com-

for a seamless,
line 1) From Atocha Renfe
station to Sol (10 to 15
minutes) with connec-
tions elsewhere via lines
2 and 3. Buy tickets from
machines at the station.
and stations throughout
the city.
¨ Metro de Madrid (www
.metromadrid.es) Runs a
metro system with 12
colour-coded lines.
Thursday and 9am to cards. de la Cibeles; h9.30am- Australia, Canada, Israel,
cercanias/madrid) go places Fiestas de San Isidro visitors encounter few
trips are the same: €1.50 1pm Saturday. bined ticket for €21.60 ¨ In a social setting, 8.30pm; mBanco de España)
that the metro doesn’t. Ambulance (%061) Labrador 15 May problems. Take particular Japan, NZ and the USA:
for a single trip, €12 for a and is valid for one visit it is customary to
EU standard emergency La Asunción (Feast of care on the metro, at ¨ Plaza del Callao (Plaza no visa required for tour-
10-trip Metrobús ticket. ¨ Tickets range between ¨ Central Post O՗ces to each gallery during a greet people with a
number (%112) the Assumption) the El Rastro Sunday del Callao; h9am-midnight; ist visits of up to 90 days.
Single-trip tickets can be €1.50 and €8 depend- 8.30am to 9.30pm Mon- 12-month period; buying kiss on each cheek,
Fire Brigade (Bomberos; 15 August morning flea market, and mCallao)
purchased on board. ing on how far you’re day to Friday, 8.30am to separate tickets would although two men ¨ Other countries: check
%080) Día de la Hispanidad around attractions popu- ¨ Paseo del Arte (cnr
travelling. 2pm Saturday. cost €27. will only do this if with a Spanish embassy
National Police (Policía (Spanish National Day) lar with tourists (such as close friends. Calle de Santa Isabel or consulate.
Nacional; %091) 12 October the Museo del Prado). & Plaza del Emperador

hassle-free city
Getting Around Essential Information
experience
Travel like a local Including where to stay

0-title-contents-pk-mdr3.indd 2 13/09/2012 4:47:24 PM

 Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s
eat, drink and experience: Madrid
Lonely Planet Pocket Guides
1 Sights are designed to get you
5 Eating straight to the heart of the city.
Inside you’ll find all the
6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to
make your visit to each one
3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split
the city into easy-to-navigate
7 Shopping neighbourhoods and provided
clear maps so you’ll find your
way around with ease. Our
These symbols give you the vital expert authors have searched
information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks,
food, nightlife and shopping,
% Telephone Numbers c Family-Friendly to name a few. Because you
h Opening Hours # Pet-Friendly
want to explore, our ‘Local Life’
p Parking g Bus
n Nonsmoking f Ferry
pages will take you to some
i Internet Access m Metro of the most exciting areas to
W Wi-Fi Access b Subway experience the real madrid.
v Vegetarian Selection j Tram And of course you’ll find all
E English-Language d Train the practical tips you need for
Menu a smooth trip: itineraries for
short visits, how to get around,
and how much to tip the guy
who serves you a drink at the
Find each listing quickly on maps
end of a long day’s exploration.
for each neighbourhood:
It’s your guarantee of a
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 QuickStart Explore
Guide 7 Madrid 21
Madrid Top Sights ............... 8
22 Plaza Mayor & Royal Madrid
Madrid Local Life ............... 12
Madrid Day Planner .......... 14
38 La Latina & Lavapiés
Need to Know .................... 16
Madrid
50 Sol, Santa Ana & Huertas
Neighourhoods .................. 18

64 El Retiro & the Art Museums

84 Salamanca

100 Malasaña & Chueca

Worth a Trip:
Plaza de Toros & Museo Taurino ...... 98
Ermita de San Antonio de
la Florida ............................................ 114
Barrio Life in Chamberí.................... 116
San Lorenzo de El Escorial .............. 118

0-title-contents-pk-mdr3.indd 4 13/09/2012 4:47:48 PM

 The Best of Survival
Madrid 123 Guide 145
Madrid’s Best Walks Before You Go .................. 146
Arriving in Madrid ............ 148
Architectural Madrid ........................124
Getting Around ................ 148
Foodie’s Madrid ................................126
Essential Information ...... 149
Madrid’s Best… Language.......................... 152

Restaurants.......................................128
Tapas ................................................ 130
Cafes .................................................. 131
Shopping ........................................... 132
Art ..................................................... 134
Green Spaces ...................................136
For Kids.............................................. 137
Bars....................................................138
Live Music & Flamenco ................... 140
Clubs..................................................142
Gay & Lesbian ...................................143
For Free............................................. 144

0-title-contents-pk-mdr3.indd 5 13/09/2012 4:47:52 PM

-quickstart-spread-pk-mdr3.indd 6 13/09/2012 1:07:41 PM
 7

QuickStart
Guide
Madrid Top Sights ........................................................8
Madrid Local Life ........................................................ 12
Madrid Day Planner.................................................... 14
Need to Know.............................................................. 16
Madrid Neighbourhoods ........................................... 18

Welcome to
Madrid
No city on earth is more alive than Madrid, a beguiling
place whose sheer energy carries a simple message: this
is one city that knows how to live. Madrid’s calling cards
are many: astonishing art galleries, stunning architecture,
relentless nightlife, fine restaurants and tapas bars. Other
cities have some of these things. Madrid has them all in
bucketloads.

Tapas bar, Mercado de San Miguel (p32)

MATTES RENÃ/GETTY IMAGES ©

-quickstart-spread-pk-mdr3.indd 7 13/09/2012 1:07:52 PM