PD

F
ROME
TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

PDF ebook
Edition 5th Edition
Release Date Jan 2018
Pages 192

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Rome Neighbourhoods

Tridente
Vatican City & (p54)
Prati Trevi & the
(p130) Quirinale
(p66)

Centro
Storico Monti &
(p36) Esquilino
Ancient (p80)
Rome
Trastevere (p22)
& Gianicolo
(p116) San Giovanni &
Celio (p96)

Aventino & Testaccio

(p108)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

ROME
TOP SIGHTS • LOCAL LIFE • MADE EASY

Duncan Garwood, Nicola Williams

In This Book

QuickStart
16 Need to Know 17 18 Neighbourhoods 19

Before You Go Arriving in Rome Getting Around

Need to Rome
Tridente
Tridente
(p54)(p54) Trevi Trevi
& the& the
Designer
Designer
storesstores
and and Quirinale
Quirinale
(p66)(p66)
Your Daily Budget Most people arrive in Rome by plane, landing Public transport includes buses, trams, metro

Neighbourhoods
swankyswanky
bars setbars
theset the
Know at one of its two airports: Leonardo da Vinci, and a suburban train network. The main hub A busy,Ahilly
busy,district,
hilly district,
tone for
tone
thisfor
stylish,
this stylish, home home
to Rome’s
to Rome’s
most most
Budget: Less than €110 better known as Fiumicino, or Ciampino, a is Stazione Termini. Tickets, which come in upmarket
upmarket
districtdistrict
hub for European low-cost carrier Ryanair. various forms, are valid for all types of trans- famous famous
fountain,
fountain,
Italy’s Italy’s
XDorm bed: €20–35 centred
centred
on twoon striking
two striking presidential
presidential
palacepalace
and and

Guide
As an alternative to short-haul flights, trains port. Children under 10 years travel free. piazzas.
piazzas.
For more information, X Double room in a budget hotel: €60–130 serve Rome’s main station, Stazione Termini, severalseveral
stellarstellar
art art
see Survival Guide (p173) X Pizza plus beer: €15 from a number of European destinations as m Metro VaticanVatican
City & City
Prati
& Prati E Top ESights
Top Sights galleries.
galleries.
well as cities across Italy. The metro is quicker than surface transport (p130) (p130) Spanish
Spanish
Steps Steps
& Piazza
& Piazza E Top ESights
Top Sights
Language Midrange: €110–250 but the network is limited. There are two Feast on
Feast
extravagant
on extravagant
art art di Spagna
di Spagna Trevi Fountain
Trevi Fountain MontiMonti
& Esquilino
& Esquilino
Italian X Double room in a hotel: €110–200 A From Leonardo da Vinci main lines, A (orange) and B (blue), which in the monumental
in the monumental
(p80)(p80)
(Fiumicino) Airport cross at Stazione Termini. Trains run between VaticanVatican
and excellent
and excellent
X Local restaurant meal: €25–45 Boutiques
Boutiques
and wineandbars
wine bars
Visas X Leonardo Express trains to Stazione 5.30am and 11.30pm (to 1.30am on Fridays food infood
neighbouring
in neighbouring
Villa Villa aboundabound
in Monti,
in Monti,
while while
Not required by EU citizens. Not required by X Admission to museum: €5–16 Termini 6.23am to 11.23pm, €14; and Saturdays). Prati. Prati. Borghese #
Borghese # E E Esquilino
Esquilino
offers offers
nationals of Australia, Canada, New Zealand X slower FL1 trains to Trastevere, Ostiense
E Top ESights
Top Sights multiculturalism
multiculturalism
and and
and the USA for stays of up to 90 days. Top end: More than €250 J Buses
and Tiburtina stations 5.57am to 10.42pm, Vatican
Vatican
Museums
Museums Vatican
Vatican Spanish
Spanish
Steps Steps
& & severalseveral
must-seemust-see
X Double room in a four- or five-star hotel: Most routes pass through Stazione Termini. Museums
Museums
€8; PiazzaPiazza
di Spagna
di Spagna museums
museums
and churches.
and churches.
St Peter’s
St Peter’s
Basilica
Basilica E E
Money €200–450
X buses to Stazione Termini 6.05am to
Buses run approximately 5.30am until # # E E
# #
E Top ESights
Top Sights
Currency is the € (euro). ATMs are Top restaurant dinner: €45–150 midnight, with limited services throughout
widespread. Major credit cards are widely
X
12.30am, €6; the night. E E
# # Trevi Trevi MuseoMuseo
Nazionale
Nazionale
accepted but some smaller shops, trattorias
X Opera ticket €17–150
X private transfers from €22 per person; Centro Centro
Storico
Storico St Peter's
St Peter's
Basilica E E
BasilicaFountain
Fountain
# # E
# E
#
Romano:
Romano:
Palazzo Palazzo
MuseoMuseo
Nazionale
Nazionale
and hotels might not take them. X City-centre taxi ride €10–15 Q On Foot (p36)(p36) Pantheon # E E
Pantheon #
Romano:
Romano:
PalazzoPalazzo Massimo
Massimo
alle Terme
alle Terme
X taxis €48 (fixed fare to within the Aurelian
Rome is a sprawling city, but the historic Rome’sRome’s
historic
historic
centrecentre
is is Massimo
Massimo
alle Terme
alle Terme
walls).

Your keys to under-

Mobile Phones centre is relatively compact. Distances are the capital’s
the capital’s
thumping
thumping
Local SIM cards can be used in European, Useful Websites A From Ciampino Airport not great and walking is often the best way of heart –heart
a heady
– a heady
warrenwarren # #E E
Australian and unlocked US phones. Other X Turismo Roma (www.turismoroma.it) X Buses to Stazione Termini 4am to 11.15pm,
getting around. of famous
of famous
squaressquares
and and E E
# # RomanRoman E E
# Colosseum
ForumForum
# Colosseum
phones must be set to roaming. Rome’s official tourist website. tangledtangled
lanes, lanes,
galleries,
galleries, Basilica
Basilica
di di
€5; restaurants
restaurants
and bars.
and bars. SantaSanta
Maria Maria
X 060608 (www.060608.it) Sights, trans- private transfers €25 per person; in Trastevere
in Trastevere
E
# E
#
San Giovanni
San Giovanni & &
Time
port, upcoming events.
X E Top ESights
Top Sights Basilica
Basilica
di di
CelioCelio
(p96)(p96)
Italy is in a single time zone, one hour ahead X taxis €30 (fixed fare to within the Aurelian Pantheon
Pantheon San Giovanni
San Giovanni
X Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/ in Laterano
in Laterano ExploreExplore
medievalmedieval
of GMT. Daylight-saving time, when clocks walls). Aventino
Aventino
& &
rome) Destination information, hotel book- churches
churches
and escape
and escape
move forward one hour, starts on the last Testaccio
Testaccio
(p108) (p108)
ings, traveller forum and more. L From Stazione Termini Ancient
Ancient
RomeRome the tourist
the tourist
crowdscrowds
in in
Sunday in March. Clocks are put back an hour Ideal for
Ideal
a romantic
for a romantic
Trastevere
Trastevere
& & (p22)(p22) residential
residential
San Giovanni
San Giovanni

standing the city –

on the last Sunday in October. Italy operates Airport buses and trains, and international getaway,
getaway,
hilltophilltop
Gianicolo
Gianicolo
(p116) (p116) Rome’sRome’s
ancientancient
core iscore
a is a and onandtheonleafy
theCelio
leafy Celio
on a 24-hour clock, so 6pm is written as 18:00. trains, arrive at Stazione Termini. From here, Aventino
Aventino
rises above
rises above
Advance Planning continue by bus, metro or taxi. Trastevere’s
Trastevere’s
medieval
medieval beautiful
beautiful
area ofarea of Testaccio,
Testaccio,
famous famous
for its for its
hill. hill.
Plugs & Adaptors Two months before Book high-season streetsstreets
heave heave
with with evocative
evocative
ruins, ruins, nose-to-tail
nose-to-tail
cookingcooking
and and E Top ESights
Top Sights
Plugs have two or three round pins; electricity accommodation. kickingkicking
bars and
bars and improbable
improbable
legends,
legends, thumping
thumping
nightlife.
nightlife. Basilica
Basilica
di SandiGiovanni
San Giovanni
is 220V to 230V. North American travellers will eateries.
eateries.
The Gianicolo
The Gianicolo soaring
soaring
pine trees
pineand
trees and in Laterano
in Laterano
One to two weeks before Book tables at E E
require an adaptor and transformer. offers offers
to-die-for
to-die-for panoramic
panoramic
views.views. # #
A-list restaurants; tickets for the pope’s Appian
Appian
panoramas.
panoramas. E Top ESights
Top Sights
weekly audience; and a visit to Palazzo Way Way Worth
Worth
a Tripa Trip
Tipping Farnese. E Top ESights
Top Sights Colosseum
Colosseum E Top ESights
Top Sights
Romans are not big tippers, but round up to Basilica
Basilica
di Santa
di Santa
Maria Maria
Few days before Book tickets for the RomanRoman
ForumForum AppianAppian
Way Way
the nearest euro in a taxi. Service (servizio) is

we help you decide

Museo e Galleria Borghese (compulsory) in Trastevere
in Trastevere
generally included in the bill at restaurants. Villa Borghese
Villa Borghese
and for the Vatican Museums and Colos-
seum (advisable).

what to do and how Need to Know Neighbourhoods

to do it Tips for a What’s where
smooth trip

68 Trevi & the Quirinale 69 12 Local Life 13

Trevi Fountain Ostiense & San Paolo (p106)

Explore
yStreet art and ancient sculpture yCool clubs

Top Sights
Aqua Virgo
y Top Tips
f Coin-tossing
Rome
Local Life
The fountain water comes from the Aqua Virgo,
etiquette: throw with
Trevi Fountain an underground aqueduct that is over 2000 years
old, built by General Agrippa under Augustus your right hand, over

Rome’s most famous fountain, the iconic Fontana Fontana di Trevi

and which brings water from the Salone springs
your left shoulder with
your back facing the
Local experiences and hidden gems
around 19km away. The name Trevi refers to the
di Trevi in Tridente, is a baroque extravaganza – a
1 Map p70, B3 tre vie (three roads) that converge at the fountain.
fountain.
to help you uncover the real city
foaming white-marble and emerald-water mas- f Paddling or bathing

VALERIOMEI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
terpiece filling an entire piazza. The flamboyant Piazza di Trevi
Salvi’s Urn in the fountain is strictly
To the eastern side of the fountain is a large It’s easy to be blinded by Rome’s beauty, but scratch beneath the surface and you’ll
baroque ensemble, 20m wide and 26m high, was forbidden, as is eating

Rome
mBarberini round stone urn. The story goes that Salvi, during discover another side to the city. Here we explore the city’s alternative hang-outs and
designed by Nicola Salvi in 1732 and depicts sea- and drinking on the
the construction of the fountain, was harassed boho bars, its hot clubs and off-the-radar neighbourhoods.
god Oceanus’s chariot being led by Tritons with steps leading down to
seahorses – one wild, one docile – representing by a barber, who had his shop to the east of the the water. Both crimes
the moods of the sea. fountain and who was critical of the work in pro- risk an on-the-spot fine Other great ways to
gress. Thus the sculptor added this urn in order of up to €500. experience the city
to block this irritating critic. like a local:
f The fountain gets very
Coin Tossing busy during the day; visit
Jogging (p33)
The famous tradition (since the 1954 film Three later in the evening when
Coins in the Fountain) is to toss a coin into the it’s beautifully lit instead.
Jewish Ghetto (p47)
DUSZAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

fountain, thus ensuring your return to Rome. Up

to €3000 is thrown into the Trevi each day. This 5 Take a Break Il Campo (p51)
money is collected daily and goes to the Catholic
charity Caritas, with its yield increasing signifi- San Crispino (%06 679 Via Margutta (p61)
cantly since the crackdown on people extracting 39 24; www.ilgelatodisan
the money for themselves. crispino.com; Via della Panet- Via dei Condotti (p64)
teria 42; tubs around €2.50;

The best things to

Chiesa di Santissimi Vincezo e Anastasio h11am-12.30am Sun-Thu, Un Caffè (p74)
After tossing your lucky coin into Trevi Fountain, to 1.30am Fri & Sat; mBar-
nip into this 17th-century church (www.santivincenzo berini) is the nearest Pasticerria Regoli
(p90)

ANDREAS ZERNDL/GETTY IMAGES ©

eanastasio.it; Vicolo dei Modelli 73; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm; recommended gelateria

ZOIA KOSTINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
mBarberini) overlooking Rome’s most spectacular for an ice to cool down
Nuovo Mercato di

CATARINA BELOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
fountain. Originally known as the ‘Papal church’ with after admiring the
due to its proximity to the papal residence on Testaccio (p113)
fountain.
Quirinal Hill, the church safeguards the hearts
Authentic dining spots Fior di Luna (p125)
and internal organs of dozens of popes – preserved

see and do,

in amphorae in a tiny gated chapel to the right of near the fountain in-
clude Vineria Il Chianti Grattachecca (p126)
the apse. This practice began under Pope Sixtus
V (1585–90) and continued until the 20th century (p74) and Hostaria
A Day Out in the Centro Storico San Lorenzo & Pigneto (p78)
when Pope Pius X (1903–14) decided it was not Romana (p74).
(p40) yHistoric churches and cemeteries
for him. Night Out in Trastavere & Gianicolo (p120)
yBeautiful backdrops yShopping and yChocolate and wine tastings
Trevi Fountain is best at night: beautifully lit with quieter surrounds craft beer yAperitivo yLive music

neighbourhood by Top Sights Local Life

neighbourhood
Make the most The insider's city
of your visit

152 Emperor’s Footsteps 153 166 Best Shopping Best Shopping 167

1 Colosseum piazzas and shops. The the spiritual heart of a wolf standing over

The Best
More than any other vestal virgins lived here the city, home to two of Romulus and Remus.
Best Walks monument, it’s the and senators debated the city’s most impor-
Best
6 Vittoriano
Emperor’s
matters of state in the tant temples.
Colosseum (p24) that
symbolises the power Curia (p27). From the Campidoglio, Shopping
Footsteps and glory of ancient
4 Piazza del
5 Capitoline
Museums
pop next door to the
Rome. A spectacular massive mountain of Rome enthralls with a fabulous portfolio of de-
2 The Walk Campidoglio
LUIS SANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

feat of engineering, the Flanking Piazza del white marble that is partment stores, specialist shops, independent
WJAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Follow in the footsteps of Rome’s legendary em- 50,000-seat stadium Exit the Forum onto Campidoglio are two the Vittoriano (p33). No boutiques and artisan workshops – guaranteed
perors on this walk around the best of the city’s was inaugurated by Via dei Fori Imperiali stately palazzi (man- emperor ever walked to please the most hedonist of shoppers. ‘Retro’
ancient treasures. Established in 27 BC, the Roman Emperor Titus in AD80 and head up to the sions) that together here, but it’s worth is among the Roman shopping scene’s many
Empire grew to become the Western world’s first with a bloodthirsty bout Michelangelo-designed house the Capitoline stopping off to take the unique qualities, with jewel-like boutiques run by
dominant superpower and at the peak of its power, Piazza del Campidoglio Museums (p32). These, panoramic lift to the

of Rome
of games that lasted 100 third-generation artisans, dusty picture-framing
in about AD 100, it extended from Britain to north days and nights. (p32). This striking the world’s oldest public top, from where you can and basket-weaving workshops, historic depart- Boutique shops on Via dei Condotti (p64)
Africa, and from Syria to Spain. Rome had a popu- piazza, one of Rome’s museums, boast an im- see the whole of Rome ment stores all oozing an impossibly chic, old-
lation of more than 1.5 million and all of the trap- 2 Palatino most beautiful, sits portant picture gallery laid out beneath you. school glamour. Meander, explore backstreets,
y Top Tips
pings of imperial splendour: marble temples, public atop the Campidoglio and a superb collection Gente An emporium- to transport home), dried Feltrinelli International
baths, theatres, shopping centres and, of course, A short walk from the enjoy. f Many city-centre
Colosseum, the Pala- (Capitoline hill), one of of classical sculpture shops close on Mon- style, multi-label bou- foodstuffs etc. (p129) Limited but excellent
the Colosseum. the seven hills on which that includes an iconic tique; essential stop for range of latest releases
tino (p31) was ancient day morning. Salumeria Roscioli
Start Colosseum; m Colosseo Rome was founded. In Etruscan bronze, the What to Buy Roman fashionistas. Byword for foodie in English, Spanish,
Rome’s most sought-
ancient times this was Lupa Capitolina, of Rome is a top place to shop for designer clothes, f Winter sales run (p64) excellence, with mouth- French, German and
Finish Vittoriano; J Piazza Venezia after neighbourhood, Portuguese. (p91)
shoes and leather goods. Foodie treats are another from early January Manila Grace Essential watering Italian and for-
site of the emperor’s 00
00
0 to mid-February,
Length 2km; at least three hours
0
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00
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Ale

5 Take a Break ety. The evocative ruins 0

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Hidden away in the Capitoline Museums but acces- 0 0 0 0 0

The city’s
00
00
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a

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00
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0
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3 Roman Forum 000 Campidoglio
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3
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Coming down from the ô
# 0
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the Monti district (p91). Testaccio (p113) is a good
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highlights
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BELT944/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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0 00000 0 00 00 000 old-fashioned workshops. There are places where
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00
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centre, a teeming hive
Clau

00i Ce
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rch boutique. (p91)
Vittoriano (p33) of law courts, temples, Celio specifications, or order a tailored tie or dress.
dia

in handy lists
00
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Best Walks Rome’s Best…

to help you plan See the city on foot The best experiences

176 Survival Guide Getting Around 177 178 Survival Guide Essential Information 179

Survival
Arriving in hourly on Sundays and
public holidays) between
Rome
5.57am and 10.42pm;
from Tiburtina every 15
minutes between 5.01am
Leonardo da Vinci
and 7.31pm, then half-
Airport (Fiumicino)
hourly to 10.01pm.
Rome’s main interna-
SIT Bus (Fiumicino)
tional airport, Leonardo
(%06 591 68 26; www.
da Vinci (Fiumicino; %06 6
59 51; www.adr.it/fiumicino), sitbusshuttle.com; one-way/
is 30km west of the city. return €6/11) Regular
Ciampino Airport Atral (www.atral-lazio.com)
Runs regular buses be-
hour €0.40; h6am-11pm;
mTermini) is available by
‘B1’, serves the northern
suburbs, and line C runs Tickets & Passes
midnight, with limited
services throughout the
¨ Always go with the
metered fare, never an
Saturday, some 11am–
7pm Sunday; smaller
Ciampino (%06 6 59 51; platform 24 on the Via through the southeast- night. arranged price (the set
tween Ciampino Airport Public-transport tickets are valid on all of shops 9am–1pm and
www.adr.it/ciampino), 15km Giolitti side of the station. ern outskirts, but you’re fares to and from the
southeast of the city and Anagnina metro Rome’s bus, tram and metro lines, except for ¨ Rome’s night bus 3.30–7.30pm (or 4pm
station (€1.20) and Ciam- unlikely to need those. routes to Fiumicino airport. They come in vari- airports are exceptions).
service comprises more to 8pm) Monday to Sat-
centre, is used by Ryanair
ous forms:
pino train station (€1.20), ¨ Trains run between than 25 lines, many of ¨ Official rates are posted
(%895 5895509; www. urday; some shops are
ryanair.com) for European where you can get a train 5.30am and 11.30pm (to BIT (biglietto integrato a tempo, a single ticket which pass Termini and/ in taxis and at https://ro-
closed Monday morning
1.30am on Fridays and or Piazza Venezia. Buses mamobilita.it/it/servizi/
Getting
and Italian destinations. to Termini (€1.50). valid for 100 minutes; in that time it can be used
Saturdays). are marked with an ‘n’ taxi/tariffe. Clubs 10pm–4am or 5am
It’s not a big airport but on all forms of transport but only once on the
there’s a steady flow of
traffic and at peak times
Stazione Termini &
Bus Station
Around ¨ All stations on line B
have wheelchair access
metro) €1.50
before the number and
bus stops have a blue
¨ You can hail a taxi, but
it’s often easier to wait
Restaurants noon–3pm
and 7.30–11pm (later in
Roma 24h (valid for 24 hours) €7 owl symbol. Departures

Guide
It’s divided into four ter-
minals: Terminals 1, 2 and
3 are for domestic and
international flights; Ter-
minal 5 is for American
and Israeli airlines flying
to the US and Israel.
The easiest way to get
into town is by train, but
there are also buses and
private shuttle services.
Leonardo Express Train
(one-way €14) Runs to/
departures from Rome
Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumi-
cino) Airport to Stazione
Termini (Via Marsala)
from 8.30am to 12.30am;
from Termini between
5am and 8.30pm. All
buses stop near the Vati-
can (Via Crescenzio 2) en
route. Tickets are avail-
able on the bus. Journey
time is approximately
it can get extremely busy. and lifts except Circo at a rank or phone for summer)
¨ Rome’s main station Public Transport includes are usually every 15 to
To get into town, the Massimo, Colosseo and Roma 48h (valid for 48 hours) €12.50 one. There are taxi ranks
and principal trans- buses, trams, metro and 30 minutes, but can be
best option is to take one Cavour. On line A, Cipro at the airports, Stazione
port hub is Stazione a suburban train network. Roma 72h (valid for 72 hours) €18 much slower.
of the dedicated bus ser- and Termini are equipped Termini, main sights and
vices. You can also take a Termini (www.romatermini. The main hub is Stazione with lifts. CIS (carta integrata settimanale, a weekly piazzas.
bus to Ciampino station com; Piazza dei Cinquecento; Termini. ticket) €24 Tram Electricity 230V/50Hz
¨ Take line A for the Trevi ¨ The website
and then pick up a train mTermini). It has regular Abbonamento mensile (monthly pass) Pass Rome has a limited tram
Fountain (Barberini), www.060608.it has a list
to Termini. connections to other Metro Spanish Steps (Spagna) restricted to a single user €35; a pass that can network. For route maps of taxi companies – click
Airport Shuttle (%06 European countries, all be used by anyone €53 see www.atac.roma.it. Emergencies
¨ Rome has two main and St Peter’s on the transport tab, then
420 13 469; www.airport major Italian cities and (Ottaviano–San Pietro). The most useful lines ‘getting around’ and ‘by
metro lines, A (orange) Roma Pass (valid within the city boundaries for Ambulance 118
shuttle.it) Transfers to/ many smaller towns. include: taxi’.
and B (blue), which cross ¨ Take line B for the Col- two/three days €28/38.50)
from your hotel for €25 2 Piazzale Flaminio to/ Fire 115
¨ Train information is at Termini. A branch line, osseum (Colosseo).
for one person, then €6 Buy tickets at tabacchi (tobacconist’s shops), from Piazza Mancini.
available from the Cus- Police 112, 113
at newsstands and from vending machines at

Tips and tricks

from Stazione Termini.
Departures from Fiu-
micino airport every 30
minutes between 6.23am
and 11.23pm; from Ter-
mini between 5.35am and
10.35pm. Journey time is
30 minutes.
one hour.
Cotral Airport Bus
(%800 174471; www.
cotralspa.it; one-way €5,
purchased on the bus €7)
Runs between Fiumicino
and Stazione Tiburtina
via Termini. Three to six
daily departures including
for each additional pas-
tomer Service area on the main bus stops and metro stations. They must 3 Museo Nazionale
senger up to a maximum main concourse to the Buses from Termini be purchased before you start your journey Etrusco di Villa Giulia to/ Money
of eight. left of the ticket desks.
Alternatively, check www.
From Piazza dei Cinquecento outside Stazione
Termini buses run to all corners of the city.
and validated in the machines on buses, at the
entrance gates to the metro, or at train stations.
from San Lorenzo, San Essential ATMS
SIT Bus – Ciampino Giovanni and Trastevere.
(%06 591 68 26; www.sitbus trenitalia.com or phone DESTINATION BUS NO Ticketless riders risk a fine of at least €50.
8 Piazza Venezia to/from
Information ¨ ATMs (known in Italy
shuttle.com; to/from airport %892 021. St Peter’s Square 40/64 Children under 10 years travel free. as bancomat) are widely
Trastevere. available in Rome and
€6/5, return €9) Regular ¨ From Termini, you can
Piazza Venezia 40/64 Business Hours
19 Piazza del Risor- most will accept cards
departures from the connect with the metro Piazza Navona 40/64
Bus information booth (Piazza gimento to/from Villa Banks 8.30am–1.30pm tied into the Visa, Master-
airport to Via Marsala

for a seamless,
FL1 Train (one-way €8) or take a bus from Pi- Campo de’ Fiori 40/64 dei Cinquecento; h8am- Card, Cirrus and Maestro
night services from the Rome’s bus service is Borghese, San Lorenzo, and 2.45–4.30pm Mon-
Connects to Trastevere, outside Stazione Ter- azza dei Cinquecento out Pantheon 40/64
¨
8pm; mTermini).
airport at 1.15am, 2.15am, Via Prenestina. day to Friday systems.
Ostiense and Tibur- mini between 7.45am and front. Taxis are outside run by ATAC (%06 5 70 03; 230V/50Hz
3.30am and 5am, Colosseum 75 ¨ Other important hubs ¨ The daily limit for cash
11.15pm; from Termini the main entrance/exit. www.atac.roma.it). Bars & cafes 7.30am–
tina stations, but not Terme di Caracalla 714 are at Largo di Torre
Termini. Departures
and from Tiburtina at between 4.30am and ¨ Left luggage (Stazione ¨ The main bus station Taxi 8pm, sometimes until withdrawal is €250.
12.30am, 1.15am, 2.30am Villa Borghese 910 Argentina and Piazza
from Fiumicino airport 9.30pm. Get tickets on Termini; 1st 5hr €6, 6-12hr per (Piazza dei Cinquecento) is in 1am or 2am ¨ Always let your bank
Venezia. ¨ Official licensed taxis
and 3.45am. Journey the bus. Journey time is Trastevere H front of Stazione Termini know when you are going
every 15 minutes (half- hour €0.90, 13hr & over per are white with an ID num- Shops 9am–7.30pm or
time is one hour. on Piazza dei Cinque- ¨ Buses generally run abroad, in case they block
45 minutes. ber and Roma Capitale on 10am–8pm Monday to
cento, where there’s an from about 5.30am until your card when payments
the sides.

hassle-free city
Getting Around Essential Information
experience
Travel like a local Including where to stay
 Our selection of the city’s best places to Lonely Planet’s
eat, drink and experience: Rome
Lonely Planet Pocket Guides
1 Sights are designed to get you
5 Eating straight to the heart of the city.
Inside you’ll find all the
6 Drinking must-see sights, plus tips to
make your visit to each one
3 Entertainment really memorable. We’ve split
the city into easy-to-navigate
7 Shopping neighbourhoods and provided
clear maps so you’ll find your
way around with ease. Our
These symbols give you the vital expert writers have searched
information for each listing: out the best of the city: walks,
food, nightlife and shopping,
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QuickStart Explore
Guide 7 Rome 21
Rome Top Sights.................... 8
22 Ancient Rome
Rome Local Life.................... 12
Rome Day Planner............... 14 36 Centro Storico
Need to Know....................... 16
Rome Neighbourhoods....... 18 54 Tridente

66 Trevi & the Quirinale

80 Monti & Esquilino

96 San Giovanni & Celio

108 Aventino & Testaccio

116 Trastevere & Gianicolo

130 Vatican City & Prati

Worth a Trip:
San Lorenzo & Pigneto.......................... 78
Appian Way..............................................92
Ostiense & San Paolo.......................... 106
Villa Borghese.......................................146
The Best of Survival
Rome 151 Guide 173
Rome’s Best Walks Before You Go................... 174

Emperor’s Footsteps........................... 152 Arriving in Rome.............. 176

Piazzas of Rome.................................. 154 Getting Around................. 177

Essential Information...... 179
Rome’s Best… Language......................... 184
History.................................................... 156
Food........................................................ 158
For Free................................................. 160
Bars & Nightlife..................................... 161
Architecture........................................... 162
Art & Museums.....................................164
Shopping................................................166
Culture................................................... 168
For Kids.................................................. 170
Tours........................................................ 171
LGBTIQ................................................... 172
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
 7

QuickStart
Guide
Rome Top Sights��������������������������������������������������������8

Rome Local Life�������������������������������������������������������� 12

Rome Day Planner���������������������������������������������������� 14

Need to Know������������������������������������������������������������ 16

Rome Neighbourhoods�������������������������������������������� 18

Welcome to
Rome
A heady mix of haunting ruins, awe-inspiring art and
vibrant street life, Italy’s hot-blooded capital is one of the
world’s most romantic and enticing cities. A trip to Rome is
as much about lapping up the dolce vita lifestyle as
gorging on art and culture, while the city’s ancient icons
recall its golden age as caput mundi (capital of the world).
Visit once and you’ll be hooked for life.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (p44), Piazza Navona

BELENOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8

Rome
Top Sights

VIACHES LAV LOPATIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Colosseum (p24)
Rome’s awe-inspiring
ancient amphitheatre.

Villa Borghese
(p146)
Sensational sculptures
GIORDANO CANTONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

and Renaissance
masterpieces.
 Top Sights 9

Pantheon (p38)
A triumph of ancient architecture.
FAZON1/GETTY IMAGES ©
LORNET/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Vatican Museums (p132)

Sistine Chapel and jaw-dropping art.
10 Top Sights
St Peter’s Basilica (p136)
The Vatican’s majestic showpiece church.

SCOTT WOODHAM PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

VALERY ROKHIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Appian Way (p92) Roman Forum (p26)

One of the world’s oldest roads. Ancient Rome’s nerve centre.
 Top Sights 11

Trevi Fountain (p68) Basilica di San Giovanni

Rome’s most famous fountain. in Laterano (p98)
Monumental papal basilica.
GALINA SAVINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

VVOE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LUBOS LAV TILES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Spanish Steps & Piazza di Spagna (p56)

People-watching on Rome’s celebrated steps.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
12

Rome
Local Life
Local experiences and hidden gems
to help you uncover the real city
It’s easy to be blinded by Rome’s beauty, but scratch beneath the surface and you’ll
discover another side to the city. Here we explore the city’s alternative hang-outs and
boho bars, its hot clubs and off-the-radar neighbourhoods.

ANDREAS ZERNDL/GETTY IMAGES ©

ZOIA KOSTINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Day Out in the Centro Storico San Lorenzo & Pigneto (p78)
(p40) yHistoric churches and cemeteries
yBeautiful backdrops yShopping and yChocolate and wine tastings
craft beer
 Local Life 13
Ostiense & San Paolo (p106)
yStreet art and ancient sculpture yCool clubs
VALERIOMEI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Other great ways to

experience the city
like a local:

Jogging (p33)

Jewish Ghetto (p47)

Il Campo (p51)

Via Margutta (p61)

Via dei Condotti (p64)

Un Caffè (p74)

Pasticerria Regoli
(p90)

Nuovo Mercato di
CATARINA BELOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Testaccio (p113)

Fior di Luna (p125)

Grattachecca (p126)

Night Out in Trastavere & Gianicolo (p120)

yAperitivo yLive music
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
14
Rome
Day Planner
Day One
M Start the day at the Colosseum
(p24), Rome’s huge gladiatorial
arena – try to get there early to avoid the
queues. Then head down to the Palatino
(p31) to poke around crumbling ruins and
admire sweeping views. From the Palatino,
follow on to the Roman Forum (p26), an
evocative area of tumbledown temples,
sprouting columns and ruined basilicas.
After lunch climb up to Piazza
R del Campidoglio (p32) and the
Capitoline Museums (p32), where you’ll
find some sensational ancient sculpture.
Done there, enjoy great views from the
Vittoriano (p33) before pushing on to the
centro storico (historic centre) to explore
its labyrinthine medieval streets and head-
line sights such as the Pantheon (p38)
and Piazza Navona (p44).
After dinner get a taste of dolce
N vita bar life. Depending on what
you’re after, you could hang out with the
beautiful people at chic Etablì (p50) near
Piazza Navona, chat over coffee at Caffè
Sant’Eustachio (p49), or sup cocktails at
the Gin Corner (p50).
Day Two
M On day two, hit the Vatican. First
up are the Vatican Museums
(p132). Once you’ve blown your mind on
the Sistine Chapel and its other myriad
masterpieces, complete your tour at St
Peter’s Basilica (p136). If you have the
energy, climb its Michelangelo-designed
dome for fantastic views over St Peter’s
Square (p142).
Jump on the metro and head back
R over the river to check out Piazza
di Spagna (p56). Plan your moves while
sitting on the Spanish Steps, then push
on to the Trevi Fountain (p68) where
tradition dictates you throw a coin into the
water to ensure your return to Rome. Next,
head up the hill to catch the sunset on
Piazza del Quirinale (p73) in front of the
presidential palace, Palazzo del Quirinale.
Spend the evening in the buzzing
N area around Campo de’ Fiori
(p51). Barnum Cafe (p49) is a top place
for cocktails and laid-back tunes or hit
Open Baladin (p41) for a welcome taste
of craft beer.

Short on time?
We’ve arranged Rome’s must-sees into these day-by-day itineraries to make sure
you see the very best of the city in the time you have available.
Day Three
M Day three starts with a trip to
the Museo e Galleria Borghese
(p147) – don’t forget to book – to marvel
at amazing baroque sculpture. After-
wards, stroll through Villa Borghese
(p147) down to La Galleria Nazionale
(p148) for an injection of modern art.
In the afternoon, check what’s
R going on at Rome’s modernist
cultural centre, the Auditorium Parco
della Musica (p148), before heading
back to Piazza del Popolo (p59). Just
off the piazza, the Basilica di Santa
Maria del Popolo (p59) is a magnificent
repository of art. Next, dedicate some
time to browsing the flagship stores and
designer boutiques in the upscale streets
off Via del Corso.
Over the river, the picture-perfect
N Trastevere neighbourhood bursts
with life in the evening as locals and tour-
ists flock to its many eateries and bars.
Get into the mood with a glass of Tuscan
red and regional snacks at La Prosciut-
teria (p125) before hitting the hard stuff
at Pimm’s Good (p126).
Day Planner 15
Day Four
M On day four it’s time to venture
out to the Appian Way (p93). The
main attractions here are the catacombs,
and it’s a wonderfully creepy sensation to
duck down into these sinister pitch-black
tunnels.
Once you’ve eaten, head north to
R Stazione Termini and the nearby
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme (p82), a superb
museum full of classical sculpture and
stunning mosaics. Then, drop by the
monumental Basilica di Santa Maria
Maggiore (p85), famous for its mosa-
ics, and the Basilica di San Pietro in
Vincoli (p86), home to Michelangelo’s
muscular Moses sculpture. Finish up with
some shopping in the fashionable bou-
tiques of the charming Monti district.
Stay put in Monti, where there’s
N plenty of late-night action. Take
your pick of wine bar or cafe to see out
the day. La Bottega del Caffè (p90) is
an ever-popular hang-out.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
16

Before You Go
Need to Your Daily Budget
Know Budget: Less than €110
XX Dorm
bed: €20–35
For more information, XX Double room in a budget hotel: €60–130
see Survival Guide (p173) XX Pizza plus beer: €15

Language Midrange: €110–250

Italian XX Double room in a hotel: €110–200

XX Local restaurant meal: €25–45

Visas
Not required by EU citizens. Not required by XX Admission to museum: €5–16
nationals of Australia, Canada, New Zealand
and the USA for stays of up to 90 days. Top end: More than €250
XX Double
room in a four- or five-star hotel:
Money €200–450
Currency is the € (euro). ATMs are XX Top restaurant dinner: €45–150
widespread. Major credit cards are widely
XX Opera ticket €17–150
accepted but some smaller shops, trattorias
and hotels might not take them. XX City-centre taxi ride €10–15

Mobile Phones
Local SIM cards can be used in European,
Australian and unlocked US phones. Other
phones must be set to roaming.
Time
Italy is in a single time zone, one hour ahead
of GMT. Daylight-saving time, when clocks
move forward one hour, starts on the last
Sunday in March. Clocks are put back an hour
on the last Sunday in October. Italy operates
on a 24-hour clock, so 6pm is written as 18:00.
Plugs & Adaptors
Plugs have two or three round pins; electricity
is 220V to 230V. North American travellers will
require an adaptor and transformer.
Tipping
Romans are not big tippers, but round up to
the nearest euro in a taxi. Service (servizio) is
generally included in the bill at restaurants.
Useful Websites
XX Turismo Roma (www.turismoroma.it)
Rome’s official tourist website.
XX 060608 (www.060608.it) Sights, trans-
port, upcoming events.
XX Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/
rome) Destination information, hotel book-
ings, traveller forum and more.
Advance Planning
Two months before Book high-season
accommodation.
One to two weeks before Book tables at
A-list restaurants; tickets for the pope’s
weekly audience; and a visit to Palazzo
Farnese.
Few days before Book tickets for the
Museo e Galleria Borghese (compulsory)
and for the Vatican Museums and Colos-
seum (advisable).

Arriving in Rome
Most people arrive in Rome by plane, landing
at one of its two airports: Leonardo da Vinci,
better known as Fiumicino, or Ciampino, a
hub for European low-cost carrier Ryanair.
As an alternative to short-haul flights, trains
serve Rome’s main station, Stazione Termini,
from a number of European destinations as
well as cities across Italy.
A From Leonardo da Vinci
(Fiumicino) Airport
XX Leonardo Express trains to Stazione
Termini 6.23am to 11.23pm, €14;
XX slowerFL1 trains to Trastevere, Ostiense
and Tiburtina stations 5.57am to 10.42pm,
€8;
XX buses
to Stazione Termini 6.05am to
12.30am, €6;
XX private transfers from €22 per person;
XX taxis €48 (fixed fare to within the Aurelian
walls).
A From Ciampino Airport
XX Buses to Stazione Termini 4am to 11.15pm,
€5;
XX private transfers €25 per person;
XX taxis €30 (fixed fare to within the Aurelian
walls).
L From Stazione Termini
Airport buses and trains, and international
trains, arrive at Stazione Termini. From here,
continue by bus, metro or taxi.
Need to Know 17
Getting Around
Public transport includes buses, trams, metro
and a suburban train network. The main hub
is Stazione Termini. Tickets, which come in
various forms, are valid for all types of trans-
port. Children under 10 years travel free.
m Metro
The metro is quicker than surface transport
but the network is limited. There are two
main lines, A (orange) and B (blue), which
cross at Stazione Termini. Trains run between
5.30am and 11.30pm (to 1.30am on Fridays
and Saturdays).
J Buses
Most routes pass through Stazione Termini.
Buses run approximately 5.30am until
midnight, with limited services throughout
the night.
Q On Foot
Rome is a sprawling city, but the historic
centre is relatively compact. Distances are
not great and walking is often the best way of
getting around.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
18

Rome
Tridente (p54)
Designer stores and
swanky bars set the
Neighbourhoods tone for this stylish,
upmarket district
centred on two striking
piazzas.
Vatican City & Prati E Top Sights
(p130) Spanish Steps & Piazza
Feast on extravagant art di Spagna
in the monumental
Vatican and excellent
food in neighbouring
Villa
Prati. Borghese # E
E Top Sights
Vatican Museums Vatican Spanish Steps &
Museums Piazza di Spagna
St Peter’s Basilica E# E #

E
# Trevi
Centro Storico St Peter's Basilica E
Fountain #
(p36) E
Pantheon #
Rome’s historic centre is
the capital’s thumping
heart – a heady warren E#
of famous squares and E
# Roman
Forum
E
#
tangled lanes, galleries, Basilica di
restaurants and bars. Santa Maria
in Trastevere
E Top Sights
Pantheon

Ancient Rome
Trastevere & (p22)
Gianicolo (p116) Rome’s ancient core is a
Trastevere’s medieval beautiful area of
streets heave with evocative ruins,
kicking bars and improbable legends,
eateries. The Gianicolo soaring pine trees and
offers to-die-for panoramic views.
panoramas. E Top Sights
E Top Sights Colosseum
Basilica di Santa Maria Roman Forum
in Trastevere
 Neighbourhoods 19

Trevi & the

Quirinale (p66)
A busy, hilly district,
home to Rome’s most
famous fountain, Italy’s
presidential palace and
several stellar art
galleries.
E Top Sights
Trevi Fountain Monti & Esquilino
(p80)
Boutiques and wine bars
abound in Monti, while
e # E Esquilino offers
multiculturalism and
& several must-see
a museums and churches.
E E Top Sights
Museo Nazionale
E E
#
Romano: Palazzo
Museo Nazionale
Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
Massimo alle Terme

E
#
an
m
E
# Colosseum

E
#
San Giovanni &
Basilica di
Celio (p96)
San Giovanni
in Laterano Explore medieval
Aventino & churches and escape
Testaccio (p108) the tourist crowds in
Ideal for a romantic
residential San Giovanni
getaway, hilltop
and on the leafy Celio
Aventino rises above
hill.
Testaccio, famous for its
nose-to-tail cooking and E Top Sights
thumping nightlife. Basilica di San Giovanni
in Laterano
E
#
Appian
Way Worth a Trip
E Top Sights
Appian Way
Villa Borghese
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
 21

Explore

Rome
Ancient Rome............................... 000
22

Centro Storico.............................. 000

36

Tridente......................................... 000
54

Trevi & the Quirinale.................... 000

66

Monti & Esquilino......................... 000

80

San Giovanni & Celio................... 000

96

Aventino & Testaccio................... 000

108

Trastevere & Gianicolo................ 000

116

Vatican City & Prati...................... 130

Worth a Trip
San Lorenzo & Pigneto������������������������������ 78
Appian Way�������������������������������������������������92
Ostiense & San Paolo������������������������������106
Villa Borghese ����������������������������������������� 146

View from the Colosseum (p24) to Arco di Costantino

RPBAIAO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

22 Ancient Rome

Explore

Ancient Rome
In a city of extraordinary beauty, Rome’s ancient heart stands out.
It’s here you’ll find the great icons of the city’s past: the Colosseum;
the Palatino; the forums; and the Campidoglio (Capitoline Hill), the
historic home of the Capitoline Museums. Touristy by day, it’s quiet
at night with few after-hours attractions.
 Explore 23

The Sights in a Day o Top Sights

MARCO RUBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Start early at the Colos-

M seum (p24), Rome’s fearsome
Colosseum (p24)

gladiatorial arena. Your ticket for the Roman Forum (p26)

Colosseum also covers admission to
the Palatino and the Roman Forum,
so make the Palatino (p31) your next
stop. Explore the spot where Romulus
supposedly founded the city and visit
the Orti Farnesiani (p31) for wonderful
views over the Roman Forum (p26),
which is your next stop.
Next, visit the Capitoline Muse-
R ums (p32) for their fine collec-
tion of classical sculpture. Before going
in, stop for a panini at the museum
cafe, Terrazza Caffarelli (p34). Stroll
through the Piazza del Campidoglio
(p32) on the way to Chiesa di Santa
Maria Antiqua (p32), the oldest Chris-
tian monument in the forum. Take a
break from history to head to the top of
the Vittoriano (p33) for amazing views
over Rome. If you’ve still got an appetite
for archaeology, squeeze in one more
ruin – the Imperial Forums (p32).
For more insight into these buildings,
include the Mercati di Traiano Museo
dei Fori Imperiali (p32).
Sightseeing over for the day,
N enjoy a dinner of traditional Ro-
man fare at Terre e Domus (p33). End
the evening with a beer at BrewDog
Roma (p34).
x Best of Rome
History
Colosseum (p24)
Roman Forum (p26)
Palatino (p31)
Bocca della Verità (p33)
Architecture
Colosseum (p24)
Mercati di Traiano Museo dei Fori
Imperiali (p32)
Piazza del Campidoglio (p32)
Getting There
J Bus In the northwest of the
neighbourhood Piazza Venezia is
an important hub. Many services
stop in or near here, including
numbers 40, 64, 87, 170, 916 and H.
m Metro Metro line B has stations
at the Colosseum (Colosseo) and
Circo Massimo. If taking the metro
at Termini follow signs for Line B
direzione Laurentina.
24 Ancient Rome

Top Sights
Colosseum
An awesome, spine-tingling sight, the Colosseum 1 Map p30, D4
is the most thrilling of Rome’s ancient monu-
ments. It was here that gladiators met in mortal %06 3996 7700
combat and condemned prisoners fought off wild www.coopculture.it
beasts in front of baying, bloodthirsty crowds.
Two thousand years on and it’s one of Italy’s top Piazza del Colosseo
tourist attractions, drawing more than six million adult/reduced incl Roman
visitors a year. Forum & Palatino €12/7.50

The Exterior h8.30am-1hr before sunset

The outer walls have three levels of arches,
mColosseo
framed by decorative columns topped by capitals

Arena of the Colosseum

 Colosseum 25

of the Ionic (at the bottom), Doric and Corin-

y Top Tips
thian (at the top) orders. They were originally ffVisit in the early
covered in travertine and marble statues filled morning or late
the niches on the 2nd and 3rd storeys. The 80 afternoon to avoid the
crowds.
entrance arches, known as vomitoria, allowed the
spectators to enter and be seated in a matter of ffIf queues are long,
minutes. get your ticket at the
Palatino, about 250m
The Arena away at Via di San
The stadium originally had a wooden floor cov- Gregorio 30.
ered in sand – harena in Latin, hence the word
ffOther queue-jumping
‘arena’ – to prevent combatants from slipping
tips: book your ticket on-
and to soak up spilt blood.
line at www.coopculture.
it (plus a €2 booking
Hypogeum
fee); get the Roma Pass;
The hypogeum served as the stadium’s backstage or join an official English-
area. It was here that stage sets were prepared language tour (€5 on
and combatants, both human and animal, would top of the regular ticket
gather before show time. Trapdoors led up to the price).
arena. To hoist people, animals and scenery up
MARCO RUBINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

to the arena, the hypogeum had a sophisticated ffThe hypogeum, along

network of 80 winch-operated lifts, all controlled with the top tier, can be
by a single pulley system. visited on a guided tour.
This must be booked in
The Seating advance and costs €9
plus the normal Colos-
The cavea, for spectator seating, was divided into
seum ticket.
three tiers: magistrates and senior officials sat
in the lowest tier, wealthy citizens in the middle
and the plebs in the highest tier. Women (except 5 Take a Break
for vestal virgins) were relegated to the cheapest
sections at the top. And as in modern stadiums, Avoid the rip-off restau-
tickets were numbered and spectators were rants in the near vicinity
assigned a precise seat in a specific sector – in and head east of the
2015, restorers uncovered traces of red numerals Colosseum for a light,
on the arches, indicating how the sectors were casual meal at Cafè
numbered. The podium, a broad terrace in front Cafè (p103).
of the tiers of seats, was reserved for the emperor,
senators and VIPs.
26 Ancient Rome

Top Sights
Roman Forum
The Roman Forum (Foro Romano) was ancient 1 Map p30, C3
Rome’s showpiece centre, a grandiose district %06 3996 7700
of temples, basilicas and vibrant public spaces.
Nowadays, it’s a collection of impressive, if www.coopculture.it
sketchily labelled, ruins that can leave you Largo della Salara Vecchia,
drained and confused. But if you can get your Piazza di Santa Maria Nova
imagination going, there’s something wonder-
fully compelling about walking in the footsteps adult/reduced incl Colosseum
of Julius Caesar and other legendary figures of & Palatino €12/7.50
Roman history.
h8.30am–1hr before sunset

gVia dei Fori Imperiali

Arco di Settimio Severo

 Roman Forum 27

Via Sacra
y Top Tips
Via Sacra, the Roman Forum’s main thoroughfare, ffGet grandstand views
traverses the site from northwest to southeast. In of the Forum from the
Palatino and Campi-
ancient times, victorious military campaigns would
doglio. Alternatively,
often be celebrated with a dramatic procession (a
head up to the viewing
Triumph) up Via Sacra to Capitoline Hill.
platform at the top of
Curia the Rampa imperiale.
The Via Sacra brings you to the Curia, the meeting ffVisit first thing in the
place of the Roman Senate. The construction you morning or late after-
see today is a 1937 reconstruction of the building noon; crowds are worst
as it looked in the 3rd-century reign of Diocletian. between 11am and 2pm.
In front of the Curia, and hidden by scaffolding,
is the Lapis Niger, a large piece of black marble ffIn summer it gets very
that’s said to cover the tomb of Romulus. hot in the Forum and
there’s little shade, so
Arco di Settimio Severo take a hat and plenty of
At the end of Via Sacra stands this 23m-high water.
monument. Dedicated to the eponymous emperor ffIf you’re caught short,
and his two sons, it was built in AD 203 to cel- there are toilets by the
LEVT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ebrate the Roman victory over the Parthians. Chiesa di Santa Maria
Antiqua.
Rostri
An elaborate podium overlooking what was the
Piazza del Foro, this is where Shakespeare had 5 Take a Break
Mark Antony make his famous ‘Friends, Romans,
countrymen…’ monologue, and where politicians For a restorative cof-
would stand to pontificate to the crowds below. Its fee break, head up to
name is a reference to the bronze beaks (rostri, or the Campidoglio and
rostra in Latin), spoils from the battle of Antium the Terrazza Caffarelli
in 338 BC, used to decorate the giant platform. (p34), the Capitoline
Museums’ panoramic
Colonna di Foca rooftop cafe.
Facing the Rostri, the Colonna di Foca marks the
If you want something
centre of Piazza del Foro. The last monument
more substantial,
erected in the Roman Forum, it was built in hon-
search out Terre e
our of the Eastern Roman emperor Phocus in 608.
Domus (p33) which
Tempio di Saturno serves excellent re-
Eight granite columns are all that remain of the gional cuisine and fine
Tempio di Saturno, one of the Roman Forum’s local wines.
 e
# 00 0
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200 m

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28 Ancient Rome

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ZAKHAR MAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Arco di Tito
landmark sights. Inaugurated in 497
BC and subsequently rebuilt in the 1st
century BC, it was an important tem-
ple that doubled as the state treasury.
Tempio di Castore e Polluce
In the centre of the Roman Forum,
three Corinthian columns survive
from the Tempio di Castore e Polluce.
This temple, dedicated to the heavenly
twins Castor and Pollux, was built in
484 BC to celebrate the defeat of the
Latin League in 496 BC.
Casa delle Vestali
The Casa delle Vestali was home to the
virgins who tended the sacred flame in
the adjoining Tempio di Vesta. The six
priestesses were selected from patrician
Roman Forum 29
families when aged between six and 10
to serve in the temple for 30 years. If
the flame in the temple went out, the
priestess responsible would be flogged.
Basilica di Massenzio
This hulking construction is the larg-
est building on the Roman Forum.
Started by the Emperor Maxentius
and finished by Constantine in 315, it
originally covered an area of approxi-
mately 100m by 65m.
Arco di Tito
Said to be the inspiration for Paris’ Arc
de Triomphe, the well-preserved Arch
of Titus was built in AD 81 to celebrate
Vespasian and Titus’ victories against
Jerusalem.
 00
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The Palatino
Sights
Palatino ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
1 1 Map p30, C4
Sandwiched between the Roman
Forum and the Circo Massimo, the
Palatino (Palatine Hill) is an atmos-
pheric area of towering pine trees,
majestic ruins and memorable views.
It was here that Romulus supposedly
founded the city in 753 BC and Rome’s
emperors lived in unabashed luxury.
Look out for the stadio (Stadium; Via
di San Gregorio 30, Palatino; mColosseo),
the ruins of the Domus Flavia (Impe-
rial Palace; Via di San Gregorio 30, Palatino;
mColosseo), and grandstand views
Sights 31
over the Roman Forum from the Orti
Farnesiani. (Palatine Hill; %06 3996
7700; www.coopculture.it; Via di San Gre-
gorio 30, Piazza di Santa Maria Nova; adult/
reduced incl Colosseum & Roman Forum
€12/7.50; h8.30am-1hr before sunset;
mColosseo)
Orti Farnesiani GARDENS
2 1 Map p30, B4
On the Palatino Hill, the 16th-century
Orti Farnesiani is one of Europe’s
earliest botanical gardens. A viewing
balcony at the northern point of the
garden commands breathtaking views
over the Roman Forum. (Via di San
Gregorio 30, Palatino; mColosseo)
32 Ancient Rome
Capitoline Museums MUSEUM
3 1 Map p30, A2
Dating to 1471, the Capitoline Museums
are the world’s oldest public museums.
Their collection of classical sculp-
ture is one of Italy’s finest, including
crowd-pleasers such as the iconic Lupa
capitolina (Capitoline Wolf), a sculp-
ture of Romulus and Remus under a
wolf, and the Galata morente (Dying
Gaul), a moving depiction of a dying
Gaul warrior. There’s also a formidable
picture gallery with masterpieces by
the likes of Titian, Tintoretto, Rubens
and Caravaggio. Ticket prices increase
when there’s a temporary exhibition
on. (Musei Capitolini; %06 06 08; www.
museicapitolini.org; Piazza del Campidoglio 1;
adult/reduced €11.50/9.50; h9.30am-7.30pm,
last admission 6.30pm; gPiazza Venezia)
Chiesa di Santa
Maria Antiqua CHURCH
4 1 Map p30, B3
This ancient church, the oldest and
most important Christian monument
in the Roman Forum, is a unique
treasure trove of early Christian art.
Its cavernous interior, recently opened
after a 30-year restoration, is lined
with exquisite 6th- to 9th-century
frescoes. Particularly impressive is an
image on the east wall showing Christ
with the fathers of the Eastern and
Western churches and a hanging de-
piction of the Virgin Mary with child,
one of the earliest icons in existence.
(Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum;
hcurrently closed; gVia dei Fori Imperiali)
Mercati di Traiano Museo
dei Fori Imperiali
MUSEUM
5 1 Map p30, B1
This striking museum brings to life the
Mercati di Traiano, emperor Trajan’s
great 2nd-century complex, while also
providing a fascinating introduction
to the Imperial Forums (p32) with
multimedia displays, explanatory
panels and a smattering of archaeo-
logical artefacts. (%06 06 08; www.
mercatiditraiano.it; Via IV Novembre 94; adult/
reduced €11.50/9.50; h9.30am-7.30pm, last
admission 6.30pm; gVia IV Novembre)
Imperial Forums ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
6 1 Map p30, B2
Visible from Via dei Fori Imperiali
and, when it’s open, Via Alessandrina,
the forums of Trajan, Augustus, Nerva
and Caesar are known collectively
as the Imperial Forums. These were
largely buried when Mussolini bull-
dozed Via dei Fori Imperiali through
the area in 1933, but excavations have
since unearthed much of them. The
standout sights are the Mercati di
Traiano (Trajan’s Markets), accessible
through the Museo dei Fori Imperiali,
and the landmark Colonna Traiana
(Trajan’s Column). (Fori Imperiali; Via dei
Fori Imperiali; gVia dei Fori Imperiali)
Piazza del Campidoglio PIAZZA
7 1 Map p30, A2
This hilltop piazza, designed by
Michelangelo in 1538, is one of Rome’s
most beautiful squares. There are

several approaches but the most
dramatic is via the graceful Cordo-
nata (Piazza d’Aracoeli) staircase up
from Piazza d’Aracoeli. The piazza is
flanked by Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo
dei Conservatori, together home to
the Capitoline Museums, and Palazzo
Senatorio, the seat of Rome city
council. In the centre is a copy of an
equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.
(gPiazza Venezia)
Vittoriano MONUMENT
8 1 Map p30, A2
Love it or loathe it, as many Romans
do, you can’t ignore the Vittoriano
(aka the Altare della Patria, Altar of
the Fatherland), the massive moun-
tain of white marble that towers
over Piazza Venezia. Begun in 1885
to honour Italy’s first king, Victor
Emmanuel II – who’s immortalised
in its vast equestrian statue – it
incorporates the Museo Centrale del
Risorgimento (%06 679 35 98; www.
risorgimento.it; adult/reduced €5/2.50;
h9.30am-6.30pm; gPiazza Venezia), a
small museum documenting Italian
unification, and the Tomb of the
Unknown Soldier.
For Rome’s best 360-degree views,
take the Roma dal Cielo (adult/reduced
€7/3.50; h9.30am-7.30pm, last entry 7pm;
gPiazza Venezia) lift to the top. (Victor
Emmanuel Monument; Piazza Venezia; admis-
sion free; h9.30am-5.30pm summer, to
4.30pm winter; gPiazza Venezia)
Eating 33
Local Life
Jogging
Don your trainers and join local jog-
gers going through their paces on
the Circo Massimo (Circus Maximus;
Map p30; %06 06 08; Piazza di Porta
Capena; mCirco Massimo). Serious
athletes take to the city’s streets
in early April for the annual Rome
marathon, which starts and fin-
ishes on Via dei Fori Imperiali.
Bocca della Verità MONUMENT
9 1 Map p30, A4
A bearded face carved into a giant mar-
ble disc, the Bocca della Verità is one of
Rome’s most popular curiosities. Leg-
end has it that if you put your hand in
the mouth and tell a lie, the Bocca will
slam shut and bite your hand off. The
mouth, which was originally part of a
fountain, or possibly an ancient man-
hole cover, now lives in the portico of
the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin,
a handsome medieval church. (Mouth of
Truth; Piazza Bocca della Verità 18; h9.30am-
5.50pm; gPiazza Bocca della Verità)
Eating
Terre e Domus LAZIO CUISINE €€
10 5 Map p30, B1
This modern white-and-glass restau-
rant is the best option in the touristy
Forum area. With minimal decor
and large windows overlooking the
34 Ancient Rome
Colonna di Traiano, it’s a relaxed spot
to sit down to traditional local staples,
all made with ingredients sourced
from the surrounding Lazio region,
and a glass or two of regional wine.
(%06 6994 0273; Via Foro Traiano 82-4;
meals €30; h9am-midnight Mon & Wed-Sat,
10am-midnight Sun; gVia dei Fori Imperiali)
Ristorante Roof
Garden Circus RISTORANTE €€€
11 5 Map p30, A4
The rooftop of the Forty Seven
hotel sets the romantic stage for chef
Giacomo Tasca’s seasonal menu of
classic Roman dishes and contempo-
rary Mediterranean cuisine. With the
Aventino hill rising in the back-
ground, you can tuck into stalwarts
such as spaghetti ajo e ojio (with garlic
and olive oil) or opt for something
richer like fillet of beef with zucchini,
peppermint and roasted peppers.
(%06 678 78 16; www.fortysevenhotel.com;
Via Petroselli 47, Hotel Forty Seven; meals €60;
hnoon-10.30pm; gVia Petroselli)
Drinking
BrewDog Roma CRAFT BEER
12 6 Map p30, D3
This new bar by Scottish brewery Brew-
Dog has proved a hit with Rome’s craft-
beer lovers since opening in the shadow
of the Colosseum in late 2015. With a
stripped-down brick look and up to
20 brews on tap, it’s a fine spot to kick
back after a day on the sights. (%392
9308655; www.brewdog.com/bars/worldwide/
roma; Via delle Terme di Tito 80; hnoon-1am
Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; mColosseo)
Terrazza Caffarelli CAFE
13 6 Map p30, A2
The Capitoline Museums’ stylish ter-
race cafe is a memorable place to relax
over a drink or light lunch (panini,
salads, pastas) and swoon over magical
views of the city’s domes and rooftops.
Although part of the museum complex,
you don’t need a ticket to come here
as it has an independent entrance on
Piazzale Caffarelli. (Caffetteria dei Musei
Capitolini; %06 6919 0564; Piazzale Caffarelli
4; h9.30am-7pm; gPiazza Venezia)
0,75 BAR
14 6 Map p30, B4
This welcoming bar overlooking the
Circo Massimo is good for a lingering
evening drink, an aperitivo or casual
meal (mains €6 to €16.50). It’s a
friendly place with a laid-back vibe, an
international crowd, attractive wood-
beam look and cool tunes. (%06 687
57 06; www.075roma.com; Via dei Cerchi 65;
h11am-2am; W; gVia dei Cerchi)
 Understand 35
/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Understand
A Who’s Who of Roman Emperors

Of the 250 or so emperors of the Roman Empire, only a few were truly
heroic. Here are 10 of the best, worst and completely insane.

Augustus (27 BC−AD 14) Rome’s first emperor. Ushers in a period of

peace and security; the arts flourish and many monuments are built.
Caligula (37−41) Emperor number three after Augustus and Tiberius.
Remains popular until illness leads to the depraved behaviour for which
he becomes infamous. Is murdered by his bodyguards on the Palatino.
Claudius (41−54) Expands the Roman Empire and conquers Britain.
Is eventually poisoned, probably at the instigation of Agrippina, his wife
and Nero’s mother.
Nero (54−68) Initially rules well but later slips into madness – he has
his mother murdered, persecutes the Christians and attempts to turn
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption
half the city into a palace, the Domus Aurea. He is eventually forced into
suicide.
Vespasian (69−79) First of the Flavian dynasty, he imposes peace and
cleans up the imperial finances. His greatest legacy is the Colosseum.
Trajan (98−117) Conquers the east and rules over the empire at its
zenith. He revamps Rome’s city centre, adding a forum, marketplace and
column, all of which still stand.
Hadrian (117−38) Puts an end to imperial expansion and constructs
walls to mark the empire’s borders.
Aurelian (270−75) Does much to control the rebellion that sweeps the
empire at the end of the 3rd century. Starts construction of the city
walls that still today bear his name.
Diocletian (284−305) Splits the empire into eastern and western
halves in 285. Launches a savage persecution of the Christians as he
struggles to control the empire’s eastern reaches.
Constantine I (306−37) Although based in Byzantium (later renamed
Constantinople in his honour), he legalises Christianity.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

36 Centro Storico

Explore

Centro Storico
A tightly packed tangle of animated piazzas, cobbled alleys, Renais-
sance palazzi (mansions) and baroque churches, the historic centre
is the Rome many come to find. Its romantic streets teem with bou-
tiques, cafes, restaurants and stylish bars, while market traders and
street artists work the crowds on the vibrant squares.

The Sights in a Day
S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Rome’s historic centre is made
M for leisurely strolling. Kick-start
your explorations with an espresso
from Caffè Sant’Eustachio (p49),
then beat the crowds to the Pantheon
(p38). Next, nip down to the Basilica
di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva (p45)
to glimpse a minor Michelangelo before
heading to the Galleria Doria Pamphilj
(p44) and its superb collection of Old
Masters. That done, stop in at Chiesa
del Gesu (p44) on your way to lunch at
La Ciambella (p47).
Recharged, push on to Piazza
R Navona (p44; pictured left),
Rome’s showpiece baroque square.
Nearby, the Museo Nazionale Ro-
mano: Palazzo Altemps (p44) houses
some wonderful classical sculpture and
the Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi
(p45) boasts a trio of Caravaggios. To
round off the day’s sightseeing check
out Campo de’ Fiori (p51).
Dine on delicious pizza at
N Emma Pizzeria (p47), before
treating yourself to gelati at Gelateria
del Teatro (p48). Cap off the night at
one of the area’s many bars – try the
Gin Corner (p50) for cocktails.
For a local’s day in the Centro Storico,
see p40.
Explore 37
o Top Sight
Pantheon (p38)
l Local Life
A Day Out in the Centro Storico
(p40)
x Best of Rome
History
Pantheon (p38)
Chiesa del Gesù (p44)
Teatro Argentina (p51)
Food
Armando al Pantheon (p48)
Gelateria del Teatro (p48)
Getting There
J Bus The best way to access the
centro storico. A whole fleet serves
the area from Termini, including
numbers 40 and 64, which both
stop at Largo di Torre Argentina
and continue down Corso Vittorio
Emanuele II. From Via del Tritone
near Barberini metro station, bus
492 runs to Corso del Rinasci-
mento for Piazza Navona.
m Metro There are no metro sta-
tions in the neighbourhood but it’s
within walking distance of Barber-
ini, Spagna and Flaminio stations,
all on line A.
U Tram Number 8 runs from
Piazza Venezia to Trastevere by
way of Via Arenula.
38 Centro Storico

Top Sights
Pantheon
A striking 2000-year-old temple, now a church, 1 Map p42, C3
the Pantheon is Rome’s best-preserved ancient
monument and one of the most influential build- www.pantheonroma.com
ings in the Western world. Its greying, pock- Piazza della Rotonda
marked exterior might look its age, but inside it’s
a different story, and it’s a unique and exhilarat- admission free
ing experience to pass through its vast bronze
h8.30am-7.15pm Mon-Sat,
doors and gaze up at the largest unreinforced
concrete dome ever built. 9am-5.45pm Sun

gLargo di Torre Argentina

Oculus and dome

 Pantheon 39

The Exterior
y Top Tips
Originally, the Pantheon was on a raised podium, ffThe Pantheon is a
working church and
its entrance facing onto a rectangular porticoed
mass is celebrated at
piazza. Nowadays, the dark-grey pitted exterior
5pm on Saturday and
faces onto busy, cafe-lined Piazza della Rotonda.
10.30am on Sunday.
And while its facade is somewhat the worse for
wear, it’s still an imposing sight. The monumen- ffVisit around midday
tal entrance portico consists of 16 Corinthian to see a beam of sun-
columns, each 11.8m high and each made from a light stream in through
single block of Egyptian granite. the oculus.

ffLook down as well as

The Interior
up – the sloping marble
Although impressive from outside, it’s only when floor has 22 almost-
you get inside that you can really appreciate invisible holes to drain
the Pantheon’s full size. With light streaming in away the rain that gets in
through the oculus (the 8.7m-diameter hole in through the oculus.
the centre of the dome), the cylindrical marble-
clad interior seems vast, an effect that was ffReturn after dark for
deliberately designed to cut worshippers down to amazing views of the
building set against the
VIACHES LAV LOPATIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

size in the face of the gods.

Opposite the entrance is the church’s main altar, ink-blue night sky.
over which hangs a 7th-century icon of the Ma-
donna col Bambino (Madonna and Child). To the 5 Take a Break
left (as you look in from the entrance) is the tomb
of Raphael, marked by Lorenzetto’s 1520 sculpture The streets around the
of the Madonna del Sasso (Madonna of the Rock). Pantheon are thick with
trattorias, cafes and
The Dome bars. For an uplifting
The Pantheon’s dome, considered the Romans’ espresso, try the nearby
most important architectural achievement, was La Casa del Caffè Tazza
the largest dome in the world until the 15th d’Oro (p50), one of
century when Brunelleschi beat it with his Flor- Rome’s finest coffee
entine cupola. Its harmonious appearance is due houses.
to a precisely calibrated symmetry – its diameter To escape the crowds
is exactly equal to the building’s interior height of and have a great plate
43.4m. At its centre, the oculus, which symboli- of pasta, look up La
cally connected the temple with the gods, plays a Ciambella (p47), a
vital structural role by absorbing and redistribut- relaxed all-day eatery
ing the dome’s huge tensile forces. in a quiet side street.
 40 Centro Storico

Local Life
A Day Out in the Centro Storico

Rome’s historic centre casts a 1 An Exhibition at the

powerful spell. But it’s not just
visitors who fall for its romantic
piazzas, suggestive lanes, and
streetside cafes. Away from the
tourist spotlight, locals love to
spend time here, shopping, un-
winding over a drink, taking in an
exhibition or simply hanging out
with friends.
w
Chiostro del Bramante
Tucked away in the backstreets near
Piazza Navona, the Renaissance Chi-
ostro del Bramante (www.chiostrodel
bramante.it; Via Arco della Pace 5; exhibitions
adult/reduced €13/11; hchurch 9am-11.45pm
Mon, Wed & Sat, cloister 10am-8pm Mon-Fri,
to 9pm Sat & Sun; gCorso del Rinascimento)
is a stunning setting for modern-art

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 A Day Out in the Centro Storico
exhibitions. Afterwards, pop upstairs
for a coffee, light lunch or drink at the
smart in-house cafe.
2 Shopping around Via del
Governo Vecchio
A charming street lined with arty
boutiques, Via del Governo Vecchio
(gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) strikes off
Piazza Pasquino, home to a celebrated
‘talking statue’ (to which Romans used
to stick notes lampooning the authori-
ties). It can get touristy but locals love
the vibe too and the area has some
great shops, including trendy jeans
store SBU (%06 6880 2547; www.sbu.it;
Via di San Pantaleo 68-69; h10am-7.30pm
Mon-Sat; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II).
3 Lunch at Alfredo e Ada
For an authentic trattoria meal,
search out the much-loved Alfredo e
Ada (%06 687 8842; Via dei Banchi Nuovi
14; meals €25-30; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm
Tue-Sat; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II).
It’s distinctly no-frills with spindly,
marble-topped tables and homey
clutter, but there’s a warm, friendly at-
mosphere and the traditional Roman
food is filling and flavoursome.
4 Stroll Via Giulia
Lined with Renaissance palazzi and
potted orange trees, Via Giulia is
a picture-perfect strip to stroll. At
41
its southern end, the Fontana del
Mascherone depicts a gobsmacked
17th-century hippie spewing water
from his mouth. Close by, the over-
head Arco Farnese was part of an
ambitious, unfinished project to link
two Farnese palaces.
5 An Optical Illusion at
Palazzo Spada
Largely bypassed by the sightseeing
hordes, Palazzo Spada (Palazzo Capodi-
ferro; %06 683 2409; http://galleriaspada.
beniculturali.it; Piazza Capo di Ferro 13; adult/
reduced €5/2.50; h8.30am-7.30pm Wed-
Mon; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II) is home
to a celebrated illusion, Borromini’s
Prospettiva (Perspective). What ap-
pears to be a 25m-long corridor lined
with columns leading to a hedge and
life-sized statue is, in fact, only 10m
long, and the sculpture, a later addi-
tion, is actually hip-height.
6 Beer at Open Baladin
Rome’s craft beer scene is now well
established and with more than 40
brew on tap and up to 100 bottled
beers, Open Baladin (%06 683 8989;
www.openbaladinroma.it; Via degli Specchi 6;
hnoon-2am; W; jVia Arenula) is one of
its leading lights. A cool, modern pub
near Campo de’ Fiori, it specialises
in Italian brews, many from small
microbreweries.
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44 Centro Storico
Sights
Piazza Navona PIAZZA
1 1 Map p42, B3
With its showy fountains, baroque
palazzi (mansions) and colourful cast
of street artists, hawkers and tour-
ists, Piazza Navona is central Rome’s
elegant showcase square. Built over
the 1st-century Stadio di Domiziano
(Domitian’s Stadium; %06 4568 6100; www.
stadiodomiziano.com; Via di Tor Sanguigna 3;
adult/reduced €8/6; h10am-7pm Sun-Fri,
to 8pm Sat), it was paved over in the
15th century and for almost 300 years
hosted the city’s main market. Its
grand centrepiece is Bernini’s Fontana
dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the
Four Rivers), a flamboyant fountain
featuring an Egyptian obelisk and
muscular personifications of the riv-
ers Nile, Ganges, Danube and Plate.
(gCorso del Rinascimento)
Galleria Doria Pamphilj GALLERY
2 1 Map p42, E4
Hidden behind the grimy grey
exterior of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj,
this wonderful gallery boasts one of
Rome’s richest private art collections,
with works by Raphael, Tintoretto,
Titian, Caravaggio, Bernini and
Velázquez, as well as several Flemish
masters. Masterpieces abound, but the
undisputed star is Velázquez’ portrait
of an implacable Pope Innocent X,
who grumbled that the depiction was
‘too real’. For a comparison, check out
Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s sculptural in-
terpretation of the same subject. (%06
679 73 23; www.doriapamphilj.it; Via del Corso
305; adult/reduced €12/8; h9am-7pm, last
entry 6pm; gVia del Corso)
Chiesa del Gesù CHURCH
3 1 Map p42, D5
An imposing example of Counter-
Reformation architecture, Rome’s
most important Jesuit church is a
fabulous treasure trove of baroque
art. Headline works include a swirl-
ing vault fresco by Giovanni Battista
Gaulli (aka Il Baciccia), and Andrea
del Pozzo’s opulent tomb for Ignatius
Loyola, the Spanish soldier and saint
who founded the Jesuits in 1540. St
Ignatius lived in the church from 1544
until his death in 1556 and you can
visit his private rooms to the right
of the main building in the Cappella
di Sant’Ignazio. (%06 69 7001; www.
chiesadelgesu.org; Piazza del Gesù; h7am-
12.30pm & 4-7.45pm, St Ignatius rooms 4-6pm
Mon-Sat, 10am-noon Sun; gLargo di Torre
Argentina)
Museo Nazionale Romano:
Palazzo Altemps MUSEUM
4 1 Map p42, B2
Just north of Piazza Navona, Palazzo
Altemps is a beautiful late-15th-
century palazzo, housing the best of
the Museo Nazionale Romano’s formi-
dable collection of classical sculpture.
Many pieces come from the celebrated
Ludovisi collection, amassed by Cardi-
nal Ludovico Ludovisi in the 17th cen-
tury. (%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.

IR STONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Interior of the Chiesa del Gesù
it; Piazza Sant’Apollinare 44; adult/reduced
€7/3.50; h9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun; gCorso
del Rinascimento)
Chiesa di San Luigi dei
Francesi CHURCH
5 1 Map p42, C3
Church to Rome’s French commu-
nity since 1589, this opulent baroque
chiesa is home to a celebrated trio of
Caravaggio paintings: the Vocazione
di San Matteo (The Calling of Saint
Matthew), the Martirio di San Matteo
(The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew)
and San Matteo e l’angelo (Saint Mat-
thew and the Angel), known collec-
tively as the St Matthew cycle. (Piazza
di San Luigi dei Francesi 5; h9.30am-12.45pm
Sights 45
& 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.15pm &
2.30-6.45pm Sat, 11.30am-12.45pm & 2.30-
6.45pm Sun; gCorso del Rinascimento)
Basilica di Santa Maria
Sopra Minerva BASILICA
6 1 Map p42, D4
Built on the site of three pagan
temples, including one dedicated to
the goddess Minerva, the Domini-
can Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva is Rome’s only Gothic church.
However, little remains of the original
13th-century structure and these days
the main drawcard is a minor Michel-
angelo sculpture and the magisterial,
art-rich interior. (www.santamaria
sopraminerva.it; Piazza della Minerva 42;
46 Centro Storico
h6.40am-7pm Mon-Fri, 6.40am-12.30pm &
3.30-7pm Sat, 8am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Sun;
gLargo di Torre Argentina)
Basilica di
Sant’Agostino BASILICA
7 1 Map p42, B2
The plain white facade of this early
Renaissance church, built in the 15th
century and renovated in the late
1700s, gives no indication of the im-
pressive art inside. The most famous
work is Caravaggio’s Madonna dei
Pellegrini (Madonna of the Pilgrims),
in the first chapel on the left, but
you’ll also find a fresco by Raphael
and a much-venerated sculpture by
Jacopo Sansovino. (Piazza di Sant’Agostino
80; h7.30am-noon & 4-7.30pm; gCorso del
Rinascimento)
Top Tip
For Free
The centro storico is an expensive
part of town but there are ways of
making your money go further. You
can see masterpieces by the likes
of Michelangelo, Raphael, Cara-
vaggio and Bernini for nothing by
visiting the area’s churches, all of
which are free to enter. Save money
on bottled water by filling up at the
drinking fountains known as nasoni
(big noses).
Palazzo Farnese HISTORIC BUILDING
8 1 Map p42, A5
Home of the French Embassy, this
formidable Renaissance palazzo, one
of Rome’s finest, was started in 1514
by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger,
continued by Michelangelo and fin-
ished by Giacomo della Porta. Inside,
it boasts a series of frescoes by An-
nibale and Agostino Carracci that are
said by some to rival Michelangelo’s
in the Sistine Chapel. The highlight,
painted between 1597 and 1608, is the
monumental ceiling fresco Amori de-
gli Dei (The Loves of the Gods) in the
Galleria dei Carracci. (www.inventerrome.
com; Piazza Farnese; €9; hguided tours
3pm, 4pm & 5pm Mon, Wed & Fri; gCorso
Vittorio Emanuele II)
Eating
Pianostrada RISTORANTE €€
9 5 Map p42, B7
Hatched in foodie Trastevere but now
across the river in a mellow white space
with vintage furnishings and glorious
summer courtyard, this bistro is a fash-
ionable must. Reserve ahead, or settle
for a stool at the bar and enjoy big bold
views of the kitchen at work. Cuisine
is refreshingly creative, seasonal and
veg-packed, including gourmet open
sandwiches and sensational homemade
focaccia as well as full-blown mains.
(%06 8957 2296; Via delle Zoccolette 22;
meals €40; h1-4pm & 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri,
10am-midnight Sat & Sun; jVia Arenula)

Emma Pizzeria PIZZA €€
10 5 Map p42, C6
Tucked in behind the Chiesa di San
Carlo ai Catinari, this smart, modern
pizzeria is a top spot for a cracking
pizza and smooth craft beer (or a wine
from its pretty extensive list). It’s a
stylish setup with outdoor seating
and a spacious, art-clad interior, and
a menu that lists seasonal, wood-fired
pizzas alongside classic Roman pastas
and mains. (%06 6476 0475; www.emma
pizzeria.com; Via Monte della Farina 28-29;
pizzas €8-18, mains €35; h12.30-3pm &
7-11.30pm; jVia Arenula)
Forno Roscioli PIZZA, BAKERY €
11 5 Map p42, B6
This is one of Rome’s top bakeries,
much loved by lunching locals who
crowd here for luscious sliced pizza,
prize pastries and hunger-sating
supplì (risotto balls). The pizza
margherita is superb, if messy to eat,
and there’s also a counter serving
hot pastas and vegetable side dishes.
(%06 686 4045; www.anticofornoroscioli.
it; Via dei Chiavari 34; pizza slices from €2,
snacks €2; h6am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm
Sun; jVia Arenula)
La Ciambella ITALIAN €€
12 5 Map p42, D4
Central but largely undiscovered by
the tourist hordes, this friendly wine-
bar-cum-restaurant beats much of the
neighbourhood competition. Its spa-
Eating 47
Local Life
Jewish Ghetto
Centred on lively Via Portico
d’Ottavia, the Jewish Ghetto
(gLungotevere de’ Cenci) is an
atmospheric area studded with
artisans’ studios, vintage clothes
shops, kosher bakeries and popular
trattorias.
Rome’s Jewish community
dates back to the 2nd century
BC, making it one of the oldest in
Europe. The first Jews came to the
city as business envoys but many
later arrived as slaves following the
Roman wars in Judaea and Titus’
defeat of Jerusalem in AD 70.
Confinement to the Ghetto came
in 1555 when Pope Paul IV ushered
in a period of official intolerance
that lasted, on and off, until the
20th century. Ironically, though,
confinement meant that Jewish
cultural and religious identity
survived intact.
A highlight of the area is the Tea-
tro di Marcello (Theatre of Marcellus;
Map p42, D7; Via del Teatro di Marcello;
gVia del Teatro di Marcello), a 20,000-
seat mini-Colosseum completed in
11 BC by Augustus.
cious, light-filled interior is set over
the ruins of the Terme di Agrippa, vis-
ible through transparent floor panels,
and its kitchen sends out some excel-
lent food, from tartares and chickpea
pancakes to slow-cooked beef and
traditional Roman pastas. (%06 683
2930; www.la-ciambella.it; Via dell’Arco della
48 Centro Storico
Ciambella 20; meals €35-45; hbar 7.30am-
midnight, wine bar & restaurant noon-11pm
Tue-Sun; gLargo di Torre Argentina)
Tiramisù Zum DESSERTS €
13 5 Map p42, B5
The ideal spot for a mid-afternoon
pick-me-up, this fab dessert bar spe-
cialises in tiramisu, that magnificent
marriage of mascarpone and liqueur-
soaked ladyfinger biscuits. Choose
between the classic version with its
cocoa powdering or one of several
tempting variations – with pistachio
nuts, blackberries and raspberries,
and Amarena cherries. (%06 6830
7836; www.facebook.com/zumroma; Piazza
del Teatro di Pompeo 20; desserts €2.50-6;
h11am-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat;
gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II)
Armando al Pantheon ROMAN €€
14 5 Map p42, C3
With its cosy wooden interior and
unwavering dedication to old-school
Roman cuisine, Armando al Pantheon
is a regular go-to for local foodies. It’s
been on the go for more than 50 years
and has served its fair share of celebs,
but it hasn’t let fame go to its head
and it remains as popular as ever.
Reservations essential. (%06 6880
3034; www.armandoalpantheon.it; Salita
dei Crescenzi 31; meals €40; h12.30-3pm
Mon-Sat & 7-11pm Mon-Fri; gLargo di Torre
Argentina)
Gelateria del Teatro GELATO €
15 5 Map p42, A2
All the ice cream served at this
excellent gelateria is prepared on-
site – look through the window and
you’ll see how. There are about 40
flavours to choose from, all made
from thoughtfully sourced ingredients
such as hazelnuts from the Langhe
region of Piedmont and pistachios
from Bronte in Sicily. (%06 4547 4880;
www.gelateriadelteatro.it; Via dei Coronari
65; gelato €2.50-5; h10.30am-8pm winter,
10am-10.30pm summer; gVia Zanardelli)
Forno di Campo
de’ Fiori PIZZA, BAKERY €
16 5 Map p42, A5
This buzzing bakery on Campo de’
Fiori, divided into two adjacent shops,
does a roaring trade in panini and
delicious fresh-from-the-oven pizza al
taglio (pizza by the slice). Aficionados
swear by the pizza bianca (‘white’
pizza with olive oil, rosemary and
salt), but the panini and pizza rossa
(‘red’ pizza, with olive oil, tomato and
oregano) taste plenty good too. (www.
fornocampodefiori.com; Campo de’ Fiori 22;
pizza slices around €3; h7.30am-2.30pm &
4.45-8pm Mon-Sat, closed Sat dinner Jul &
Aug; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II)
Casa Bleve RISTORANTE €€€
17 5 Map p42, C4
Ideal for a special occasion dinner,
this palatial restaurant-wine-bar daz-
zles with its column-lined dining hall

VITO ARCOMANO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
Caffè Sant’Eustachio
and stained-glass roof. Its wine list,
one of the best in town, accompanies
a refined menu of creative antipasti,
seasonal pastas and classic main
courses. (%06 686 59 70; www.casableve.
it; Via del Teatro Valle 48-49; meals €55-70;
h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat; gLargo
di Torre Argentina)
Drinking
Barnum Cafe CAFE
18 6 Map p42, A4
A laid-back Friends-style cafe, ever­
green Barnum is the sort of place
you could quickly get used to. With
its shabby-chic vintage furniture and
Drinking 49
white bare-brick walls, it’s a relaxed
spot for a breakfast cappuccino, a
light lunch or a late afternoon drink.
Come evening, a coolly dressed-down
crowd sips seriously good cocktails.
(%06 6476 0483; www.barnumcafe.com; Via
del Pellegrino 87; h9am-10pm Mon, to 2am
Tue-Sat; W; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II)
Caffè Sant’Eustachio COFFEE
19 6 Map p42, C4
This small, unassuming cafe, generally
three deep at the bar, is reckoned by
many to serve the best coffee in town.
To make it, the bartenders sneakily
beat the first drops of an espresso
with several teaspoons of sugar to
create a frothy paste to which they
50 Centro Storico
add the rest of the coffee. It’s superbly
smooth and guaranteed to put some
zing into your sightseeing.
The chocolate-coated coffee beans
sold here are also worth trying. (www.
santeustachioilcaffe.it; Piazza Sant’Eustachio
82; h8.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri, to
2am Sat; gCorso del Rinascimento)
Roscioli Caffè CAFE
20 6 Map p42, C6
The Roscioli name is a sure bet for
good food and drink in this town:
the family runs one of Rome’s most
celebrated delis (%06 687 5287; www.
salumeriaroscioli.com; Via dei Giubbonari 21;
meals €55; h12.30-4pm & 7pm-midnight
Mon-Sat; jVia Arenula) and a hugely
popular bakery (p47), and this cafe
doesn’t disappoint either. The coffee
is wonderfully luxurious, and the
artfully crafted pastries, petits fours
and panini taste as good as they look.
(%06 8916 5330; www.rosciolicaffe.com;
Piazza Benedetto Cairoli 16; h7am-11pm
Mon-Sat, 8am-6pm Sun; jVia Arenula)
Etablì WINE BAR, CAFE
21 6 Map p42, A3
Housed in a 16th-century palazzo,
Etablì is a rustic-chic lounge-bar-
restaurant where you can drop by for
a morning coffee, have a light lunch
or chat over an aperitivo. It’s laid-
back and good-looking, with original
French-inspired country decor –
leather armchairs, rough wooden
tables and a crackling fireplace. It also
serves full restaurant dinners (€45)
and hosts occasional live music. (%06
9761 6694; www.etabli.it; Vicolo delle Vacche
9a; hcafe 7.30am-6pm, wine bar 6pm-1am;
W; gCorso del Rinascimento)
La Casa del Caffè
Tazza d’Oro COFFEE
22 6 Map p42, D3
A busy, stand-up affair with burnished
1940s fittings, this is one of Rome’s
best coffee houses. Its espresso hits
the mark nicely and there’s a range of
delicious coffee concoctions, including
a cooling granita di caffè, a crushed-
ice coffee drink served with whipped
cream. There’s also a small shop and,
outside, a coffee bancomat for those
out-of-hours caffeine emergencies.
(%06 678 9792; www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.
com; Via degli Orfani 84-86; h7am-8pm
Mon-Sat, 10.30am-7.30pm Sun; gVia del
Corso)
Gin Corner COCKTAIL BAR
23 6 Map p42, C1
Forget fine wines and craft beers, this
chic bar in the Hotel Adriano is all
about the undistilled enjoyment of
gin. Here the making of a simple gin
and tonic is raised to an art form – the
menu lists more than 10 varieties –
and martinis are beautifully executed.
You can also get cocktails made from
other spirits if gin isn’t your thing.
(%06 6880 2452; www.facebook.com/
thegincorner; Via Pallacorda 2, Hotel Adriano;
h6pm-midnight; gVia di Monte Brianzo)

Entertainment
Teatro Argentina THEATRE
24 3 Map p42, C5
Founded in 1732, Rome’s top theatre
is one of the two official homes of
the Teatro di Roma – the other is the
Teatro India (%06 68400 0311; www.
teatrodiroma.net; Lungotevere Vittorio
Gassman 1; mStazione Trastevere) in the
southern suburbs. Rossini’s Barber
of Seville premiered here in 1816
and it today stages a wide-ranging
program of drama (mostly in Italian),
high-profile dance performances and
classical music concerts. (%06 68400
0311; www.teatrodiroma.net; Largo di Torre
Argentina 52; tickets €12-32; gLargo di
Torre Argentina)
Shopping
Confetteria Moriondo &
Gariglio CHOCOLATE
25 7 Map p42, D4
Roman poet Trilussa was so smit-
ten with this historic chocolate
shop – established by the Torinese
confectioners to the royal house
of Savoy – that he was moved to
mention it in verse. And we agree,
it’s a gem. Decorated like an elegant
tearoom, with crimson walls, tables
and glass cabinets, it specialises
in delicious handmade chocolates,
many prepared according to original
Entertainment 51
19th-century recipes. (%06 699 0856;
Via del Piè di Marmo 21-22; h9am-7.30pm
Mon-Sat; gVia del Corso)
Ibiz – Artigianato
in Cuoio FASHION & ACCESSORIES
26 7 Map p42, B6
In her diminutive family workshop,
Elisa Nepi and her team craft exqui-
site, soft-as-butter leather wallets,
bags, belts and sandals, in simple but
classy designs and myriad colours. You
can pick up a belt for about €35, while
for a bag you should bank on at least
€110. (%06 6830 7297; www.ibizroma.it; Via
dei Chiavari 39; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat;
gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II)
Local Life
Il Campo
Noisy, colourful Campo de’ Fiori
(Map p42, B5; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele
II) is a major focus of Roman life:
by day it hosts one of Rome’s best-
known markets (h7am-2pm Mon-
Sat), while at night it morphs into a
raucous open-air pub as drinkers
spill out from its many bars and
eateries. For centuries the square
was the site of public executions,
and it was here that philosopher
Giordano Bruno was burned for
heresy in 1600. The spot is marked
by a sinister statue of the hooded
monk, which was created by Ettore
Ferrari in 1889.
52 Centro Storico
Marta Ray SHOES
27 7 Map p42, A2
Women’s ballet flats and elegant,
everyday bags, in rainbow colours and
butter-soft leather, are the hallmarks
of the emerging Marta Ray brand. At
this store, one of three in town, you’ll
find a selection of trademark bal-
lerinas and a colourful line in modern,
beautifully designed handbags. (%06
6880 2641; www.martaray.it; Via dei Coronari
121; h10am-8pm; gVia Zanardelli)
Bartolucci TOYS
28 7 Map p42, D3
It’s difficult to resist going into this
magical toyshop where everything
is carved out of wood. By the main
entrance, a Pinocchio pedals his bike
robotically, perhaps dreaming of the
full-size motorbike parked nearby,
while inside there are all manner of
ticking clocks, rocking horses, planes
and more Pinocchios than you’re
likely to see in your whole life. (www.
bartolucci.com; Via dei Pastini 98; h10am-
10.30pm; gVia del Corso)
Salumeria Roscioli FOOD & DRINKS
29 7 Map p42, B6
The rich scents of cured meats, chees-
es, conserves, olive oil and balsamic
vinegar intermingle at this top-class
deli, one of Rome’s finest. Alongside
iconic Italian products, you’ll also find
a vast choice of wines and a range of
French cheeses, Spanish hams and
Scottish salmon. (%06 687 5287; www.
salumeriaroscioli.com; Via dei Giubbonari 21;
h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; jVia Arenula)
namasTèy TEA
30 7 Map p42, C4
After a visit to this charming shop,
you’ll be reminded of it every time you
have a tea. Set up like an apothecary
with ceiling-high shelves and rows of
jars, it stocks blends from across the
globe, as well as everything you could
ever need for your home tea ritual –
teapots, cups, infusers and filters. It
also sells coffee and bite-size snacks.
(%06 6813 5660; www.namastey.it; Via della
Palombella 26; h10.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat,
11.30am-7.30pm Sun, closed Aug; gLargo di
Torre Argentina)
 Understand 53
/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Understand
Architectural Timeline

c 4th century BC–AD 5th century The ancient Romans make huge
advances in engineering techniques, constructing monumental public
buildings, bridges, aqueducts, housing blocks and an underground
sewerage system.
4th–12th centuries Church building is the focus of architectural activ-
ity in the Middle Ages as Rome’s early Christian leaders seek to stamp
their authority on the city.
15th–16th centuries Based on humanism and a reappraisal of classical
precepts, the Renaissance hits an all-time high in the first two decades
of the 16th century, a period known as the High Renaissance.
17th century Developing out of the Counter-Reformation, the baroque
flourishes in Rome, fuelled by Church money and the genius of Gian
Lorenzo Bernini and his hated rival Francesco Borromini.
CaptionCaptionCaptionCaption

18th century A short-lived but theatrical style born out of the baroque,
the florid rococo gifts Rome some of its most popular sights.
late 18th–19th centuries Piazza del Popolo takes on its current form
and Villa Torlonia gets a facelift courtesy of Rome’s top neoclassical
architect, Giuseppe Valadier.
late 19th century Rome gets a major post-unification makeover –
roads are built, piazzas are laid, and residential quarters spring up to
house government bureaucrats.
early 20th century Muscular and modern, Italian rationalism plays to
Mussolini’s vision of a fearless, futuristic Rome, a 20th-century caput
mundi (world capital).
1990s–present Rome provides the historic stage upon which some
of the world’s top contemporary architects experiment. Criticism and
praise are meted out in almost equal measure.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

54 Tridente

Explore

Tridente
This central part of Rome is glamorous, debonair and tourist-busy.
Designer boutiques, fashionable bars, swish hotels and a handful
of historic cafes and trattorias lace the compelling web of streets
between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo.
 Explore 55

The Sights in a Day o Top Sight

FUTUREGALORE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Breakfast at Antico Caffè Spanish Steps & Piazza di Spagna

M Greco (p62), the one-time ref- (p56)
uge of Romantic poets, before heading
up to Piazza di Spagna and the Span-
ish Steps (p56). Climb the staircase x Best of Rome
to the Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti History
(p57) where you’ll be rewarded with Basilica di Santa Maria del Popolo
wonderful rooftop views. While you’re (p59)
here, visit the Pincio Hill Gardens
(p60) and Villa Medici (p60). Food
Imàgo (p61)
Head back down the stairs to Fatamorgana Corso (p62)
R sample the pasta at Pastificio
(p61). Next, search out Via Margutta Bars & Nightlife
(p61), the charming street that was Zuma Bar (p63)
once home to Federico Fellini. Follow on
to the grand Piazza del Popolo (p59)
Architecture
and the art-rich Basilica di Santa
Museo dell’Ara Pacis (p60)
Maria del Popolo (p59). Make your
way to the Museo dell’Ara Pacis (p60)
to admire ancient stonework. After- Shopping
wards, indulge in some retail therapy Re(f)use (p64)
in the stores and boutiques on Via del Gente (p64)
Corso, Via dei Condotti (p64; pictured
left) and Via del Babuino, stopping for a Manila Grace (p65)
pick-me-up at tiramisu vendor
Pompi (p62). Getting There
m Metro Spagna and Flaminio
Start the evening with a drink stations are perfectly placed for
N at Il Palazzetto (p62) before Tridente. Both stops are on line A.
dinner at Fiaschetteria Beltramme
J Bus Numerous buses stop at
(p60). Round the day off with some
the southern end of Via del Corso
celeb-watching over cocktails at the
and on Via del Tritone, ideal for a
Stravinskij Bar (p64).
foray into Tridente.
56 Tridente

Top Sights
Spanish Steps & Piazza di Spagna
A magnet for visitors since the 18th century, the 1 Map p58, D4
Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti)
rising up from Piazza di Spagna provide a perfect mSpagna
people-watching perch: think hot spot for selfies,
newly-wed couples posing for romantic photos
etc. In the late 1700s the area was much loved
by English visitors on the Grand Tour and was
known to locals as the ghetto de l’inglesi (the
English ghetto).

Spanish Steps, with the Fontana della Barcaccia in the foreground

 Spanish Steps & Piazza di Spagna 57

The Spanish Steps

y Top Tips
Piazza di Spagna was named after the Spanish ffNo picnics on the
Embassy to the Holy See, but the staircase – 135 steps, please! It is
forbidden to eat and
gleaming steps designed by the Italian Francesco
drink or ‘shout, squall
de Sanctis and built in 1725 with a legacy from
and sing’ on the beauti-
the French – leads up to the hilltop French Chiesa
fully restored staircase.
della Trinità dei Monti. The dazzling sweep of
Doing so risks a fine of
stairs reopened in September 2016 after a €1.5 €25 to €500.
million clean-up job funded by luxury Italian
jewellery house Bulgari. ffA prime photo op is
during the springtime
Keats-Shelley House festival Mostra delle
At the foot of the Spanish Steps, this house- Azalee, held late March/
museum (%06 678 42 35; www.keats-shelley-house.org; early April, when hun-
Piazza di Spagna 26; adult/reduced €5/4; h10am-1pm dreds of vases of bright
& 2-6pm Mon-Sat; mSpagna) is where Romantic pink azaleas in bloom
poet John Keats died of TB at the age of 25, in adorn the steps.
February 1821. Keats came to Rome in 1820 to try
ffTo skip the 135-step
to improve his health in the Italian climate, and
hike up, take the lift
rented two rooms on the 3rd floor of a town-
S.BORISOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

inside the Spagna metro

house next to the Spanish Steps, with painter station to the top.
companion Joseph Severn (1793–1879).

Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti 5 Take a Break

This landmark church (Map p58; %06 679 41 79;
Piazza Trinità dei Monti 3; h7.30am-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am- Play the Grand Tour
5pm Sat & Sun; mSpagna) was commissioned by tourist with afternoon
King Louis XII of France and consecrated in 1585. tea at 19th-century
Apart from the great city views from its front Babington’s Tea Rooms
steps, it has some wonderful frescoes by Daniele (p64), at the foot of the
da Volterra. His Deposizione (Deposition), in Spanish Steps.
the second chapel on the left, is regarded as a Watch the sun set
masterpiece of mannerist painting.
over the steps from
Fontana della Barcaccia the fabulous ringside
At the foot of the steps, the fountain of a sinking terrace of cocktail bar Il
boat, the Barcaccia (1627), is believed to be by Palazzetto (p62).
Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian
Lorenzo. It’s fed from the ancient Roman Acqua
Vergine aqueduct. Here there’s not much pressure,
so it’s sunken as a clever piece of engineering.
 058
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Piazza del Popolo
Sights
Piazza del Popolo PIAZZA
1 1 Map p58, A1
This dazzling piazza was laid out
in 1538 to provide a grandiose
entrance to what was then Rome’s
main northern gateway. It has since
been remodelled several times, most
recently by Giuseppe Valadier in 1823.
Guarding its southern approach are
Carlo Rainaldi’s twin 17th-century
churches, Chiesa di Santa Maria dei
Miracoli (Map p58; Via del Corso 528;
h6.45am-12.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat,
8am-1.15pm & 4.30-7.45 Sun) and Chiesa di
Santa Maria in Montesanto (Chiesa degli
Sights 59
Artisti; Map p58; www.chiesadegliartisti.it; Via
del Babuino 198; h5.30-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-
1.30pm Sun). In the centre, the 36m-high
obelisk was brought by Augustus from
ancient Egypt; it originally stood in
Circo Massimo. (mFlaminio)
Basilica di Santa Maria
del Popolo BASILICA
2 1 Map p58, A1
A magnificent repository of art, this
is one of Rome’s earliest and richest
Renaissance churches. Of the numerous
works of art on display, it is the two
Caravaggio masterpieces that draw
the most onlookers – the Conversion
of Saul (1601) and the Crucifixion of St
Peter (1601), in a chapel to the left of
60 Tridente
the main altar – but it contains other
fine works, including several by Pintu-
ricchio and Bernini. (www.smariadelpopolo.
com; Piazza del Popolo 12; h10.30am-12.30pm
& 4-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 10.30am-6.30pm Fri &
Sat, 4.30-6.30pm Sun; mFlaminio)
Villa Medici PALACE
3 1 Map p58, D2
This sumptuous Renaissance palace
was built for Cardinal Ricci da
Montepulciano in 1540, but Ferdi-
nando dei Medici bought it in 1576. It
remained in Medici hands until 1801,
when Napoleon acquired it for the
French Academy. Guided tours take
in the wonderful landscaped gardens,
cardinal’s painted apartments, and
incredible views over Rome – tours in
English depart at noon. Note the pieces
of ancient Roman sculpture from the
Ara Pacis embedded in the villa’s walls.
(%06 676 13 11; www.villamedici.it; Viale Trinità
dei Monti 1; 1½hr guided tour adult/reduced
€12/6; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; mSpagna)
Pincio Hill Gardens GARDENS
4 1 Map p58, B1
Overlooking Piazza del Popolo, 19th-
century Pincio Hill is named after the
Pinci family, who owned this part of
Rome in the 4th century. It’s quite a
climb up from the piazza, but at the
top you’re rewarded with lovely views
over to St Peter’s and the Gianicolo
Hill. Alternatively, approach from the
top of the Spanish Steps. From the
gardens, strike out to explore Villa
Borghese, Villa Medici or Chiesa della
Trinità dei Monti (p57) at the top of
the Spanish Steps. (mFlaminio)
Museo dell’Ara Pacis MUSEUM
5 1 Map p58, A4
The first modern construction in
Rome’s historic centre since WWII,
Richard Meier’s controversial and wide-
ly detested glass-and-marble pavilion
houses the Ara Pacis Augustae (Altar
of Peace), Augustus’ great monument
to peace. One of the most important
works of ancient Roman sculpture, the
vast marble altar – measuring 11.6m
by 10.6m by 3.6m – was completed
in 13 BC. (%06 06 08; www.arapacis.it;
Lungotevere in Auga; adult/reduced €11/9;
h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; mFlaminio)
Eating
Fiaschetteria
Beltramme TRATTORIA €€
6 5 Map p58, B4
A super spot for authentic Roman din-
ing near the Spanish Steps, Fiaschet-
teria (meaning ‘wine-sellers’) is a
hole-in-the-wall, stuck-in-time place
with a short menu. Fashionistas with
appetites dig into traditional Roman
dishes made using recipes unchanged
since the 1930s when a waiter at the
19th-century wine bar (from 1886 to
be precise) started serving food. Seek-
ing the perfect carbonara? This is the
address. (%06 6979 7200; Via della Croce
39; meals €40; h12.15-3pm & 7.30-10.45pm;
mSpagna)

Imàgo ITALIAN €€€
7 5 Map p58, D4
Even in a city of great views, the
panoramas from the Hassler Hotel’s
Michelin-starred romantic rooftop
restaurant are special, extending over a
sea of roofs to the great dome of St Pe-
ter’s Basilica; request the corner table.
Complementing the views are the bold,
mod-Italian creations of culinary whizz,
chef Francesco Apreda. (%06 6993 4726;
www.imagorestaurant.com; Piazza della Trinità
dei Monti 6, Hotel Hassler; tasting menus €120-
150; h7-10.30pm Feb-Dec; v; mSpagna)
Ginger BRASSERIE €€
8 5 Map p58, C4
This buzzy white-tiled space is a
fantastic all-day dining spot near
the Spanish Steps. The focus is on
organic ‘slow food’ dishes using
seasonal AOP ingredients, and all ap-
petites are catered for with gourmet,
French baguette-style sandwiches,
steamed ‘baskets’, meal-sized salads
and healthy mains like salmon with
orange mayonnaise. (%06 9603 6390;
www.ginger.roma.it; Via Borgognona 43;
sandwiches €7-10, salads €9-14, meals €50;
h10am-11.30pm; mSpagna)
Pastificio FAST FOOD €
9 5 Map p58, C3
A brilliant budget find, this old-
fashioned pasta shop (1918) with
kitchen hatch serves up two choices
of pasta at lunchtime. It’s fast food,
Italian style – freshly cooked (if you
Eating 61
time it right) pasta, with wine and
water included. Grab a space to stand
and eat between shelves packed with
packets of dry pasta or take it away.
(Via della Croce 8; pasta, wine & water €4;
h1-3pm Mon-Sat; mSpagna)
Il Margutta VEGETARIAN €€
10 5 Map p58, B2
This chic art-gallery-bar-restaurant
gets packed at lunchtime with
Romans feasting on its good-value,
eat-as-much-as-you-can buffet deal.
Everything is organic, with an evening
menu tempting with creative dishes
such as tofu with marinated ginger
and smoked tubers, or grilled chicory
with almond cream, almond cream
Local Life
Via Margutta
Small independent antique shops,
art galleries and boutiques pep-
per Via Margutta (Map p58, C2;
mSpagna), one of Rome’s prettiest
pedestrian cobbled lanes strung
with ivy-laced palazzi, decora-
tive potted plants and the odd
monumental fountain. The street is
named after a 16th-century family
of barbers but has long been
associated with art and artists –
Picasso worked at a gallery at No
54 and the Italian Futurists had
their first meeting here in 1917.
Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck
also whispered sweet nothings to
each other at No 51 in the classic
Roman Holiday (1953).
62 Tridente
and candied tangerine. Among the
various tasting menus is a vegan
option. (%06 3265 0577; www.ilmargutta.
bio; Via Margutta 118; lunch buffet weekdays/
weekends €15/25, meals €15-40; h8.30am-
11.30pm; v; mSpagna, Flaminio)
Pompi DESSERTS €
11 5 Map p58, C3
Rome’s most famous vendor of
tiramisu (which literally means ‘pick
me up’) sells takeaway cartons of
the deliciously yolky yet light-as-air
dessert. As well as classic, it comes
in pistachio, strawberry, hazelnut
and banana-chocolate variations. Eat
on the spot (standing) or buy frozen
portions that will keep for a few hours
until you’re ready to tuck in at home.
(www.barpompi.it; Via della Croce 82; tiramisu
€4; h10.30am-9.30pm; mSpagna)
Babette ITALIAN €€€
12 5 Map p58, B2
Babette is run by two sisters who used
to produce a fashion magazine, hence
the effortlessly chic interior of ex-
posed brick walls and vintage painted
signs. Cuisine is a feast of Italian
dishes with a creative French twist:
tortiglioni with courgette, saffron and
pistachio pesto, for example, followed
by rabbit loin in juniper sauce, then
torta Babette (a light-as-air lemon
cheesecake). (%06 321 15 59; www.babette
ristorante.it; Via Margutta 1d; meals €50;
h1-3pm & 7-10.45pm Tue-Sun, closed Jan;
v; mSpagna, Flaminio)
Fatamorgana Corso GELATO €
13 5 Map p58, B2
The wonderful all-natural, gluten-free
gelato served at Fatamorgana is argu-
ably Rome’s best artisanal ice cream.
Innovative and classic tastes of heaven
abound, including flavours such as pear
and caramel, all made from the finest
seasonal ingredients. There are several
branches around town. (%06 3265 2238;
www.gelateriafatamorgana.com; Via Laurina 10;
2/3/4/5 scoops €2.50/3.50/4.50/5; hnoon-
11pm; mFlaminio)
Drinking
Antico Caffè Greco CAFE
14 6 Map p58, C4
Rome’s oldest cafe, open since 1760,
is still working the look with the
utmost elegance: waiters in black
tails and bow tie, waitresses in frilly
white pinnies, scarlet flock walls and
age-spotted gilt mirrors. Prices reflect
this amazing heritage: pay €9 for a
cappuccino sitting down or join locals
for the same (€2.50) standing at the
bar. (%06 679 17 00; Via dei Condotti 86;
h9am-9pm; mSpagna)
Il Palazzetto CAFE, COCKTAIL BAR
15 6 Map p58, D3
No terrace proffers such a fine view
of the comings and goings on the
Spanish Steps over an expertly shaken
cocktail (€10–13). Ride the lift up from
the discreet entrance on narrow Via
dei Bottino or look for steps leading

JULIE MAYFENG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Antico Caffè Greco
to the bar from the top of the steps.
Given everything is alfresco, the bar is
only open in warm, dry weather. (%06
6993 41000; Viccolo del Bottino 8; hnoon-
8.30pm Tue-Sun, closed in rain; mSpagna)
Zuma Bar COCKTAIL BAR
16 6 Map p58, B4
Dress up for a drink on the rooftop ter-
race of Palazzo Fendi of fashion-house
fame – few cocktail bars in Rome are
as sleek, hip or achingly sophisticated
as this. City rooftop views are predict-
ably fabulous; cocktails mix exciting
flavours like shiso with juniper berries,
elderflower and prosecco; and DJ sets
spin Zuma playlists at weekends. (%06
9926 6622; www.zumarestaurant.com; Via
della Fontanella di Borghese 48, Palazzo Fendi;
Drinking 63
h6pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W;
gVia del Corso)
Caffè Ciampini CAFE
17 6 Map p58, D3
Hidden away a short walk from the
top of the Spanish Steps towards the
Pincio Hill Gardens, this graceful sea-
sonal cafe has a vintage garden-party
vibe, with green wooden latticework
and orange trees framing its white-
clothed tables. There are lovely views
over the backstreets behind Spagna,
and the gelato – particularly the tartu-
fo al cioccolato (chocolate truffle) – is
renowned. Serves food too. (%06 678
56 78; www.caffeciampini.com; Viale Trinità dei
Monti; h8am-11pm Mar-Oct; mSpagna)
64 Tridente
Stravinskij Bar BAR
18 6 Map p58, B2
Can’t afford to stay at the celeb-
magnet Hotel de Russie? Then splash
out on a drink at its swish bar. There
are sofas inside, but best is a drink in
the sunny courtyard, with sun-shaded
tables overlooked by terraced gardens.
Impossibly romantic in the best dolce
vita style, it’s perfect for a pricey
cocktail or beer accompanied by
appropriately posh bar snacks. (%06
3288 8874; Via del Babuino 9, Hotel de Russie;
h9am-1am; mFlaminio)
Babington’s Tea Rooms CAFE
19 6 Map p58, D4
Founded in 1893, at a time when tea
could only be bought in pharmacies,
Babington’s Tea Rooms were opened
by two English women with the inten-
tion of serving up a decent cuppa
to the hordes of English tourists in
Local Life
Via dei Condotti
High-rolling shoppers and window-
dreamers will want to stroll Via dei
Condotti (Map p58, B4; mSpagna),
Rome’s smartest shopping strip. At
the eastern end, Caffè Greco (p62)
was a favourite meeting point of
18th- and 19th-century writers.
Other top shopping streets in the
area include Via Frattina, Via della
Croce, Via delle Carrozze and Via
del Babuino.
Rome. Traditional cream teas, scones,
muffins, fruity teacakes, dainty finger
sandwiches, fried breakfasts and other
English culinary treats remain its
unique selling point. (%06 678 08 46;
www.babingtons.com; Piazza di Spagna 23;
h10am-9.15pm; mSpagna)
Shopping
Re(f)use DESIGN
20 7 Map p58, B4
Fascinating to browse, this clever
boutique showcases unique Carmina
Campus pieces – primarily bags and
jewellery – made from upcycled
objects and recycled fabrics. The
brand is the love child of Rome-born
designer Ilaria Venturini Fendi (of the
Fendi family), a passionate advocate
of ethical fashion, who crafts contem-
porary bracelets from beer and soft
drink cans, and bold bags from re­
cycled materials. (%06 6813 6975; www.
carminacampus.com; Via della Fontanelle di
Borghese 40; h11am-7pm; gVia del Corso)
Gente FASHION & ACCESSORIES
21 7 Map p58, C3
This multi-label boutique was the first
in Rome to bring all the big-name
luxury designers – Italian, French and
otherwise – under one roof and its
vast emporium-styled space remains
an essential stop for every serious
fashionista. Labels include Dolce &
Gabbana, Prada, Alexander McQueen,
Sergio Rossi and Missoni.

It has a sparkling new store for
women at Via Frattini (%06 678 91 32;
Via Frattini 93; gVia del Corso).
(%06 320 7671; www.genteroma.com; Via
del Babuino 77; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Thu,
to 8pm Fri & Sat, 11.30am-7.30pm Sun;
mSpagna)
Manila Grace FASHION & ACCESSORIES
22 7 Map p58, C5
An essential homegrown label for
dedicated followers of fashion, Manila
Grace mixes bold prints, patterns and
fabrics to create a strikingly unique,
assertive style for women who like to
stand out in a crowd. Think a pair of
red stiletto shoes with a fuchsia-pink
pom pom on the toe, a striped jacket
or a glittering gold bag with tradition-
al tan-leather trim. Alessia Santi is the
talented designer behind the brand.
(%06 679 78 36; www.manilagrace.com; Via
Frattina 60; h10am-7.30pm; mSpagna)
Artisanal Cornucopia DESIGN
23 7 Map p58, A2
One of several stylish independent
boutiques on Via dell’Oca, this chic
concept store showcases exclusive
handmade pieces by Italian designers,
such as a trunk full of Anthony Peto
hats, bold sculpture-like lamps by
Roman designer Vincenzo Del Pizzo,
and delicate gold necklaces and other
jewellery crafted by Giulia Barela. It
also sells artisan bags, shoes, candles,
homewares and other lovely hand-
Shopping 65
made objects. (%342 871 4597; www.
artisanalcornucopia.com; Via dell’Oca 38a;
h10am-7pm; mFlaminio)
Flumen Profumi PERFUME
24 7 Map p58, B4
Unique ‘made in Rome’ scents is what
this artisan perfumery on Tridente’s
smartest shopping strip is all about.
Natural perfumes are oil-based,
contain four to eight base notes and
evoke la dolce vita in Italy. Incantro
fuses pomegranate with white flower,
while Ritrovarsi Ancora is a nostalgic
fragrance evocative of long, lazy, fam-
ily meals around a shared countryside
table (you can smell the fig!). (%06
6830 7635; www.flumenprofumi.com; Via
della Fontanella di Borghese 41; h11am-2pm
& 3.30-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm & 3-7.30pm
Sun; gVia del Corso)
Anglo American
Bookshop BOOKS
25 7 Map p58, D5
Particularly good for university
reference books, the Anglo American
Bookshop is well stocked and well
known. It has an excellent range of
literature, travel guides, children’s
books and maps, and if it hasn’t got
the book you want, it’ll order it in.
(%06 679 52 22; www.aab.it; Via della Vite
102; h3.30-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-7.30pm
Tue-Sat; mSpagna)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

66 Trevi & the Quirinale

Explore

Trevi & the Quirinale

The Roman hill of Quirinale is home to the extraordinary Trevi

Fountain and the imposing Palazzo del Quirinale, as well as important
churches by the twin masters of Roman baroque, Gian Lorenzo Bernini
and Francesco Borromini. The area is also an artistic hot spot, with
plenty of galleries. Lording over it all, the Palazzo del Quirinale exudes
sober authority – and wonderful views of the Rome skyline at sunset.
 Explore 67

The Sights in a Day o Top Sight

BENNY MARTY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Start the day with the majestic Trevi Fountain (p68)

M Palazzo del Quirinale (p71),
then visit the vast private art collection
in the Galleria Colonna (p71). Head x Best of Rome
to the Trevi Fountain (p68) to throw History
in your coin and ensure your return Trevi Fountain (p68)
to Rome. By now, it’s time for lunch at
Colline Emiliane (p74). Food
Colline Emiliane (p74)
Fed and watered, prepare for
R plenty of baroque pomp and Culture
Renaissance revelations at Palazzo Gregory’s Jazz Club (p76)
Barberini (p72), a superb art gallery
housed in one of Rome’s great aristo- Getting There
cratic palazzi (mansions). Next visit
m Metro The Trevi and Quirinale
Rome’s strangest sight: crypt chapels
areas are closest to the Barberini
made entirely of human bones in the
metro stop on line A.
Convento dei Cappuccini (p73).
Shake off the macabre atmosphere J Bus Numerous buses run down
with a drink at Pepy’s Bar (p75). to Piazza Barberini or along Via
Veneto.
End your day with a Tuscan
N feast at Vineria Il Chianti (p74)
followed by a whisky and music at
Gregory’s Jazz Club (p76).
68 Trevi & the Quirinale

Top Sights
Trevi Fountain
Rome’s most famous fountain, the iconic Fontana 1 Map p70, B3
di Trevi in Tridente, is a baroque extravaganza –
a foaming white-marble and emerald-water mas- Piazza di Trevi
terpiece filling an entire piazza. The flamboyant mBarberini
baroque ensemble, 20m wide and 26m high, was
designed by Nicola Salvi in 1732 and depicts sea-
god Oceanus’s chariot being led by Tritons with
seahorses – one wild, one docile – representing
the moods of the sea.

Trevi Fountain is best at night: beautifully lit with quieter surrounds

 Trevi Fountain 69

Aqua Virgo
y Top Tips
The fountain water comes from the Aqua Virgo, ffCoin-tossing
an underground aqueduct that is over 2000 years etiquette: throw with
your right hand, over
old, built by General Agrippa under Augustus
your left shoulder with
and which brings water from the Salone springs
your back facing the
around 19km away. The name Trevi refers to the
fountain.
tre vie (three roads) that converge at the fountain.
ffPaddling or bathing
Salvi’s Urn in the fountain is strictly
To the eastern side of the fountain is a large forbidden, as is eating
round stone urn. The story goes that Salvi, during and drinking on the
the construction of the fountain, was harassed steps leading down to
by a barber, who had his shop to the east of the the water. Both crimes
fountain and who was critical of the work in pro- risk an on-the-spot fine
gress. Thus the sculptor added this urn in order of up to €500.
to block this irritating critic.
ffThe fountain gets very
Coin Tossing busy during the day; visit
The famous tradition (since the 1954 film Three later in the evening when
Coins in the Fountain) is to toss a coin into the it’s beautifully lit instead.
DUSZAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

fountain, thus ensuring your return to Rome. Up

to €3000 is thrown into the Trevi each day. This 5 Take a Break
money is collected daily and goes to the Catholic
charity Caritas, with its yield increasing signifi- San Crispino (%06 679
cantly since the crackdown on people extracting 39 24; www.ilgelatodisan
the money for themselves. crispino.com; Via della Panet-
teria 42; tubs around €2.50;
Chiesa di Santissimi Vincezo e Anastasio h11am-12.30am Sun-Thu,
After tossing your lucky coin into Trevi Fountain, to 1.30am Fri & Sat; mBar-
nip into this 17th-century church (www.santivincenzo berini) is the nearest
eanastasio.it; Vicolo dei Modelli 73; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm; recommended gelateria
mBarberini) overlooking Rome’s most spectacular for an ice to cool down
fountain. Originally known as the ‘Papal church’ with after admiring the
due to its proximity to the papal residence on fountain.
Quirinal Hill, the church safeguards the hearts
and internal organs of dozens of popes – preserved Authentic dining spots
in amphorae in a tiny gated chapel to the right of near the fountain in-
the apse. This practice began under Pope Sixtus clude Vineria Il Chianti
V (1585–90) and continued until the 20th century (p74) and Hostaria
when Pope Pius X (1903–14) decided it was not Romana (p74).
for him.
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DANILO ASCIONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Palazzo del Quirinale
Sights
Palazzo del Quirinale PALACE
1 1 Map p70, C3
Overlooking Piazza del Quirinale,
this immense palace is the official
residence of Italy’s head of state, the
President of the Republic. For almost
three centuries it was the pope’s sum-
mer residence, but in 1870 Pope Pius
IX begrudgingly handed the keys over
to Italy’s new king. Later, in 1948, it
was given to the Italian state. Visits,
by guided tour only, should be booked
at least five days ahead by telephone
(collect tour tickets at the nearby
Infopoint at Salita di Montecavallo 15)
Sights 71
or buy online at www.coopculture.it.
(%06 3996 7557; www.quirinale.it; Piazza del
Quirinale; 1¼hr tour €1.50, 2½hr tour adult/
reduced €10/5; h9.30am-4pm Tue, Wed &
Fri-Sun, closed Aug; mBarberini)
Galleria Colonna GALLERY
2 1 Map p70, B4
The only part of Palazzo Colonna
open to the public, this opulent 17th-
century gallery houses the Colonna
family’s private art collection. It’s not
the capital’s largest collection but
with works by Salvatore Rosa, Guido
Reni, Guercino and Annibale Carracci,
it’s well worth the ticket price, which
includes an optional guided tour in
72 Trevi & the Quirinale

English at noon. (%06 678 43 50; www.
galleriacolonna.it; Via della Pilotta 17; adult/
reduced €12/10; h9am-1.15pm Sat, closed
Aug; gVia IV Novembre)
Palazzo Barberini GALLERY
3 1 Map p70, C2
Commissioned to celebrate the Barber-
ini family’s rise to papal power, Palazzo
Barberini is a sumptuous baroque
ceiling frescoes in the 1st-floor main
salon. (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica; %06
481 45 91; www.barberinicorsini.org; Via delle
Quattro Fontane 13; adult/reduced €5/2.50,
incl Palazzo Corsini €10/5; h8.30am-7pm
Tue-Sun; mBarberini)
Le Domus
Romane di Palazzo
Valentini ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

palace that impresses even before

you clap eyes on the breath­taking art.
Many high-profile architects worked
on it, including rivals Bernini and
Borromini; the former contributed a
large squared staircase, the latter a
helicoidal one. Amid the masterpieces,
don’t miss Pietro da Cortona’s Il
Trionfo della Divina Provvidenza (Tri-
umph of Divine Providence; 1632–39),
the most spectacular of the palazzo
4 1 Map p70, B4
Underneath a grand mansion that’s
been the seat of the Province of Rome
since 1873 lie the archaeological re-
mains of several lavish ancient Roman
houses; the excavated fragments have
been turned into a fascinating multi­
media ‘experience’. Tours are every 30
minutes, but alternate between Italian,
English and French. Book ahead online

Understand
Miraculous Madonnas

Overlooking Vicolo delle Bollette, a tiny lane near the Trevi Fountain, there’s
a small, simple painting of the Virgin Mary. This is the Madonna della Pietà,
one of the most famous of Rome’s madonnelle (small madonnas). There are
estimated to be around 730 of these roadside madonnas in Rome’s historic
centre, most placed on street corners or outside historic palazzi. Many were
added in the 16th and 17th centuries, but their origins date to pagan times
when votive wall shrines were set up at street corners to honour the Lares,
household spirits believed to protect passers-by. When Christianity emerged
in the 4th century AD, these shrines were simply rededicated to the religion’s
new icons. Their presence was also intended to deter devout Catholics from
committing street crime.
As well as food for the soul, the madonnas also provided a valuable public
service. Until street lamps were introduced in the 19th century, the candles
and lamps that lit up the images were the city’s only source of street lighting.

or by phone, especially during holiday
periods. (%06 2276 1280; www.palazzo
valentini.it; Via Foro Traiano 85; adult/reduced
€12/8, advance booking fee €1.50; h9.30am-
6.30pm Wed-Mon; c; mBarberini)
Convento
dei Cappuccini MUSEUM
5 1 Map p70, C1
This church and convent complex
safeguards what is possibly Rome’s
strangest sight: crypt chapels where
everything from the picture frames
to the light fittings is made of human
bones. Between 1732 and 1775 resi-
dent Capuchin monks used the bones
of 3700 of their departed brothers to
create this macabre memento mori
(reminder of death) – a 30m-long
passageway ensnaring six crypts,
each named after the type of bone
used to decorate, such as skulls, shin
bones, pelvises etc. (%06 487 11 85;
www.cappucciniviaveneto.it; Via Vittorio
Veneto 27; adult/reduced €8.50/5; h9am-
7pm; mBarberini)
Galleria Sciarra MONUMENT
6 1 Map p70, A3
Meander west from Trevi Fountain,
along pedestrian Via delle Muratte,
and duck a block south to this
magnificent Art Nouveau courtyard,
hidden away on Via Marco Minghetti.
Part of 16th-century Palazzo Sciarra
Colonna di Carbognano, both frescoes
and iron-and-glass roof date to 1890
when the courtyard was remodelled
Sights 73
Top Tip
Sunset over Piazza del
Quirinale
One of the best places to catch a
memorable Roman view is Piazza
del Quirinale (Map p70, B3; mBar-
berini) in front of the presidential
palace. As the sun dips and the sky
takes on a golden, fiery hue, you
can gaze over a sea of rooftops
to the distant dome of St Peter’s
Basilica.
and spruced up by the wealthy Sciarra
family. Admire the female virtues of
strength, patience, modesty and kind-
ness alongside aristocratic Roman
women in their traditional roles as
wife, mother, musician and so on. (Via
Marco Minghetti 9-10; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri;
mBarberini)
Chiesa di Santa Maria
della Vittoria CHURCH
7 1 Map p70, E1
This modest church is an unlikely
setting for an extraordinary work
of art – Bernini’s extravagant and
sexually charged Santa Teresa trafitta
dall’amore di Dio (Ecstasy of St
Teresa). This daring sculpture depicts
Teresa, engulfed in the folds of a
flowing cloak, floating in ecstasy on a
cloud while a teasing angel pierces her
repeatedly with a golden arrow. (%06
4274 0571; Via XX Settembre 17; h8.30am-
noon & 3.30-6pm; mRepubblica)
74 Trevi & the Quirinale
Local Life
Un Caffè
Prendere un caffè (having a coffee)
is one of the great rituals of Roman
life. As a rule, locals will stop at
a bar for a coffee in the morning
before work, and then again after
lunch. To fit in with the crowd, ask
for un caffè (the term espresso is
rarely used) and drink standing at
the bar. Also, never order a cappuc-
cino after lunch.
Eating
Colline Emiliane ITALIAN €€€
8 5 Map p70, C2
Sensational regional cuisine from
Emilia-Romagna aside, what makes
this small white-tablecloth dining ad-
dress so outstanding is its family vibe
and overwhelmingly warm service. It’s
been a stronghold of the Latini family
since the 1930s, and today son Luca
runs the show with his mother Paola
(dessert queen), aunt Anna (watch her
making fresh pasta each morning in
the glassed-off lab) and father Mas-
simo. (%06 481 75 38; www.collineemiliane.
com; Via degli Avignonesi 22; meals €45;
h12.45-2.45pm & 7.30-10.45pm Tue-Sun,
closed Sun dinner & Mon; mBarberini)
Bistro del Quirino ITALIAN €
9 5 Map p70, A3
For unbeatable value near Trevi Foun-
tain, reserve a table at this artsy bistro
adjoining Teatro Quirino. Theatre
posters add bags of colour to the spa-
cious interior where a banquet of a
self-service ‘brunch’ buffet – fantastic
salads, antipasti, hot and cold dishes –
is laid out for knowing Romans to feast
on. (%06 9887 8090; www.bistrotquirino.com;
Via delle Vergini 7; brunch €10, à la carte €25;
hnoon-3.30pm & 4pm-2am; gVia del Corso)
Vineria Il Chianti TUSCAN €€
10 5 Map p70, B3
With a name like Il Chianti, this pretty
ivy-clad wine bar can only be Tuscan.
Cosy up inside its bottle-lined interior
or grab a table on the street terrace
and dig into superb Tuscan dishes like
stracotto al Brunello (beef braised in
Brunello wine) or handmade pasta
laced with lardo di Colonnata (aro-
matic pork fat aged in Carrara marble
vats). (%06 679 24 70; www.vineriailchianti.
com; Via del Lavatore 81-82a; meals €45;
h10am-1am; gVia del Tritone)
Hostaria Romana TRATTORIA €€
11 5 Map p70, C2
A highly recommended address for
lunch or dinner near Trevi Fountain,
Hostaria Romana cooks up meaty,
traditional classics like grilled goat
chops, veal cutlets, roast suckling pig
and T-bone steaks to a mixed Roman
and tourist crowd. Busy, bustling
and noisy, this is everything an Ital-
ian trattoria should be. Sign your
name on the graffiti-covered walls
before leaving. (%06 474 52 84; www.
hostariaromana.it; Via del Boccaccio 1; meals
€40; h12.30-3pm & 7.15-11pm Mon-Sat;
mBarberini)

DULEZIDAR/GETTY IMAGES ©
Penne with tomato sauce and parmesan cheese
Drinking
Pepy’s Bar CAFE
12 6 Map p70, C2
Play the Roman: sit at a bistro table
on the narrow pavement terrace
and watch the fountains gush and
motorini whizz by on Piazza Barberini
at this down-to-earth, neighbourhood
cafe in Trevi. It is a perfect spot for a
relaxed drink any time of day, and its
all-day sandwiches – made with per-
fectly square, crustless white bread –
are almost too beautiful to eat. (%06
4040 2364; www.pepysbar.it; Piazza Barberini
53; h7am-2am; W; mBarberini)
Drinking 75
Moma
CAFE
13 6 Map p70, D1
Molto trendy: this cafe-restaurant is
a find. It’s sleekly sexy and popular
with workers in suits from nearby
offices. There’s a small stand-up cafe
downstairs, with a nice little deck out-
side where you can linger longer over
coffee and delicious dolcetti. Upstairs
is a recommended cucina creativa
(creative cuisine) restaurant. (%06
4201 1798; www.ristorantemoma.it; Via di
San Basilio 42; tasting menu €55 h8am-
midnight Mon-Sat Sep-Jul; mBarberini)
76 Trevi & the Quirinale
Entertainment
Gregory’s Jazz Club JAZZ
14 3 Map p70, B1
If Gregory’s were a tone of voice, it’d
be husky: unwind over a whisky in
the downstairs bar, then unwind some
more on squashy sofas upstairs to
slinky live jazz and swing, with quality
local performers who also like to hang
out here. (%06 679 63 86; www.gregorys
jazz.com; Via Gregoriana 54d; obligatory drink
€15-20; h8pm-2am Tue-Sun; mBarberini,
Spagna)
Shopping
Galleria
Alberto Sordi SHOPPING CENTRE
15 7 Map p70, A3
This elegant stained-glass arcade
appeared in Alberto Sordi’s 1973 clas-
sic, Polvere di stelle (Stardust), and
has since been renamed for Rome’s
favourite actor, who died in 2003. It’s
a serene place to browse stores such
as Zara and Feltrinelli, and there’s an
airy cafe ideal for a quick coffee break.
(%06 6919 0769; www.galleriaalbertosordi.
it; Piazza Colonna, Galleria di Piazza Colonna;
h8.30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-9pm Sun;
gVia del Corso)
Fausto Santini SHOES
16 7 Map p70, A1
Rome’s best-known shoe designer,
Fausto Santini, is famous for his
beguilingly simple, architectural shoe
designs, with beautiful boots and
shoes made from butter-soft leather.
Colours are beautiful, and the quality,
impeccable. Seek out the end-of-line
discount shop (%06 488 09 34; Via Ca-
vour 106; h10am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Tue-Fri,
10am-1pm & 3-7.30pm Sat; mCavour) if the
shoes here are out of your price range.
(%06 678 41 14; www.faustosantini.com; Via
Frattina 120; h11am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm
Sun; mSpagna)
 Understand 77

Understand
Rome on Film

The Golden Age

For the golden age of Roman film-making you have to turn the clocks
back to the 1940s, when Roberto Rossellini (1906−77) produced a trio
of neorealist masterpieces. The first and most famous was Roma città
aperta (Rome Open City; 1945), filmed with brutal honesty in the Pren-
estina district east of the city centre. Vittorio de Sica (1901−74) kept the
neorealist ball rolling in 1948 with Ladri di biciclette (Bicycle Thieves),
again filmed in Rome’s sprawling suburbs.
Federico Fellini (1920−94) took the creative baton from the neo­
realists and carried it into the following decades. His disquieting style
demands more of audiences, abandoning realistic shots for pointed
images at once laden with humour, pathos and symbolism. Fellini’s
greatest international hit was La Dolce Vita (1960), starring Marcello
Mastroianni and Anita Ekberg.

Contemporary Directors
Born in Naples but Roman by adoption, Paolo Sorrentino (b 1970) is the
big name in Italian cinema. Since winning an Oscar for his 2013 hit La
grande bellezza (The Great Beauty), he has gone on to direct Michael
Caine and Harvey Keitel in Youth (2015) and Jude Law in the HBO–
Atlantic Sky series The Young Pope (2016), a sumptuous, and at times
surreal, tale of Vatican intrigue.
In contrast to Sorrentino, a Neapolitan best known for a film about
Rome, Matteo Garrone (b 1968) is a Roman famous for a film about
Naples. Gomorra (Gomorrah; 2008), his hard-hitting exposé of the
Neapolitan camorra (mafia), enjoyed widespread acclaim.
More recently, Emanuele Crialese (b 1965) impressed with Terra-
ferma (Dry Land; 2011), a thought-provoking study of immigration, and
Lamberto Sanfelice won applause at the 2015 Sundance Film Festival
for Cloro (Chlorine), a slow-burning drama centred on a teenage girl’s
struggles to keep her dreams alive in the face of family tragedy.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

78 Worth a Trip

Local Life
San Lorenzo & Pigneto

Getting There A lively student quarter east of Termini, San

Lorenzo is a metropolitan mix of graffiti-clad
J Take buses 7 and streets, artists studios, cheap takeaways and hip
492 for San Lorenzo; restaurants. Apart from a major basilica, there are
for Pigneto buses 81, few traditional sights, but come evening the area
810, 105 and n12. bursts into life. Southeast, the former working-
U Catch tram 3 for
class Pigneto district is one of the capital’s cool-
San Lorenzo; tram 5, est, a bar-heavy pocket frequented by bohemians,
14 or 19 for Pigneto. hipsters and trend-setting urbanites.

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1 Basilica di San Lorenzo
Fuori le Mura
One of Rome’s four patriarchal basili-
cas, the starkly beautiful Basilica di
San Lorenzo Fuori le Mura (Piazzale San
Lorenzo; h8am-noon & 4-6.30pm; gPiaz-
zale del Verano) stands on the site of St
Lawrence’s burial place. It suffered
bomb damage in WWII but retains a
stunning Cosmati floor and 13th-
century frescoed portico.
2 Explore the Cimitero di
Campo Verano
Next door to the Basilica, the Cimitero
di Campo Verano (%06 4923 6349;
www.cimitericapitolini.it; Piazzale del Verano
1; h7.30am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar;
gPiazzale del Verano) is a strangely
moving place. Avenues of grandiose
tombs criss-cross the cemetery, Rome’s
largest, which dates to the Napoleonic
occupation of Rome (1804–14).
3 Chocolate at Said
For a change of scene, search out Said
(%06 446 92 04; www.said.it; Via Tiburtina
135; meals €50; h6pm-12.30am Mon, 10am-
12.30am Tue-Fri, to 1.30am Sat, to midnight
Sun; W; gVia Tiburtina, jVia dei Reti).
A delicious hideaway set in a 1920s
factory, it’s part shop – selling all sorts
of exotic chocs – part bar (try the hot
chocolate) and part restaurant.
4 Wine Tasting at Il Sori
Every last salami slice and chunk of
cheese has been carefully selected
from Italy’s finest artisans and small
producers at Il Sorì (%393 4318661;
www.ilsori.it; Via dei Volsci 51; h7.30pm-2am
San Lorenzo & Pigneto 79
Mon-Sat; gVia Tiburtina), a gourmet
wine bar and bottega (food shop) that
is an unexpected pearl of a stop for
dedicated foodies.
5 Dining at Tram Tram
Achingly hip despite its vintage pedi-
gree, Tram Tram (%06 49 04 16; www.
tramtram.it; Via dei Reti 44; meals €35-45;
h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun;
gVia Tiburtina, jVia dei Reti) is a wildly
popular, old-style trattoria with lace
curtains. It’s a family-run affair that
mixes classical Roman dishes with
seafood from Puglia. Book ahead.
6 Hang Out at Necci
Start your exploration of bar-studded
Pigneto at iconic Necci dal 1924 (%06
9760 1552; www.necci1924.com; Via Fanfulla
da Lodi 68; h8am-2am; Wc; jVia Pre-
nestina). The old stomping ground of
film director Pier Paolo Pasolini, this
laid-back spot caters to an eclectic
crowd that comes to drink on the leafy
terrace or dine on seasonal food.
7 Speakeasy Cocktails
Cocktails have never been so cool in
Rome and chic cocktail bar Co.So
(%06 4543 5428; Via Braccio da Montone
80; h7pm-3am Mon-Sat; jVia Prenestina)
is the spot in Pigneto to hobnob over
‘carbonara sour’ cocktails (with pork-
fat-infused vodka). Later, duck across
the street to Spirito (%327 2983900;
www.club-spirito.com; Via Fanfulla da Lodi 53;
h7.30pm-3am Wed-Mon; jVia Prenestina),
a New York–style speakeasy hidden at
the back of sandwich shop.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

80 Monti & Esquilino

Explore

Monti & Esquilino

Centred on transport hub Stazione Termini, this is a large and
cosmopolitan area that, upon first glance, can seem busy and
overwhelming. But hidden among its traffic-noisy streets are some
beautiful churches, Rome’s best unsung art museum at Palazzo
Massimo alle Terme, and any number of trendy bars and restaurants
in the fashionable Monti.

The Sights in a Day
AMSTERDAMMING/500PX ©
Leave the choking chaos of the
M Termini behind as you enter the
hushed halls of the Museo Nazion-
ale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle
Terme (p82), one of Rome’s best
museums. Lose yourself among the
sculpture and frescoes before heading
over to the Basilica di Santa Maria
Maggiore (p85) and nearby Basilica
di Santa Prassede (p87), famous for
its glorious Byzantine mosaics. After so
much worthy art, treat yourself to lunch
at Panella (p87).
First stop on the afternoon
R agenda (but make it after
3pm) is the Basilica di San Pietro in
Vincoli (p86), which boasts a resident
Michelangelo. Afterwards, wander up
through Monti, exploring boutiques
and ateliers as you make for Palazzo
delle Esposizioni (p86) to check out
an exhibition.
Spend the evening in Monti.
N Start with dinner at L’Asino
d’Oro (p88), then take your pick from
the area’s many bars and cafes – Ai
Tre Scalini (p87) is always a popular
choice.
Explore 81
o Top Sight
Museo Nazionale Romano:
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme (p82)
x Best of Rome
History
Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli
(p86)
Food
Antonello Colonna Open (p87)
Mercato Centrale (p88)
Pasta Chef (p88)
Bars & Nightlife
Ai Tre Scalini (p87)
Architecture
Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
(p85)
Getting There
m Metro The Cavour metro stop
(line B) is most convenient for
Monti, while the Termini (lines A
and B), Castro Pretorio (line B)
and Vittorio Emanuele (line A) sta-
tions are useful for Esquilino.
J Bus Termini is the city’s main
bus hub, connected to places all
over the city. Access Monti from
buses stopping on Via Nazionale
or Via Cavour.
82 Monti & Esquilino

Top Sights
Museo Nazionale Romano:
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
One of Rome’s finest museums, this light-filled 1 Map p84, D2
treasure trove is packed with spectacular classical
%06 3996 7700
art. Start your visit on the 2nd floor, so you see
its wonders when you’re fresh – the sensational www.coopculture.it
frescoes here give a more complete picture of the
inside of grand ancient Roman villas than you’ll Largo di Villa Peretti 1
see anywhere else in the world. adult/reduced €7/3.50

h9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun

mTermini

Fresco from Villa Livia depicting a pomegranate tree, Palazzo Massimo alle Terme
 Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 83

Villa Frescoes
y Top Tips
On the 2nd floor, magnificent and vibrantly ffSave cents by visiting
on the 1st Sunday of the
coloured frescoes include scenes from nature,
month when museum
mythology, and domestic and sensual life, using
admission is free.
rich, vivid (and expensive) colours. The showstop-
per is the decoration covering an entire room ffRent an audio guide
from Villa Livia, one of the homes of Augus- at the main ticket desk
tus’ wife Livia Drusilla. The frescoes depict a for €5.
paradisiacal garden full of a wild tangle of roses,
ffTickets, valid for
violets, pomegranates, irises and camomile under
three days, also cover
a deep-blue sky. These decorated a summer tri- admission to the Terme
clinium, a large living and dining area built half di Diocleziano, Palazzo
underground to provide protection from the heat. Altemps and the Crypta
The lighting mimics the modulation of daylight Balbi.
and highlights the richness of the millennia-old
colours.
5 Take a Break
Floor Mosaics
Whatever the time of
The 2nd floor also features some exquisitely fine
day, the gourmet food
DEA/ARCHIVIO J. LANGE/GETTY IMAGES ©

floor mosaics and rare inlay work from the 13th

stalls cooking up pretty
and 14th centuries. That these mosaics carpeting
much everything under
plush villa floors were trampled on by hundreds
the Roman sun – cakes,
upon thousands of aristocratic Romans is utterly
coffee, lunch, dinner,
scandalous.
fast food – at Mercato
Portraits & Bronzes Centrale (p88) provide
perfect post-museum
The ground and 1st floors are devoted to sculp-
refreshment.
ture, examining imperial portraiture as propa-
ganda and including some breathtaking works of For pizza in a cobbled
art, including the 2nd-century-BC Greek bronzes, alley, head to Rome’s
the Boxer and the Prince, a crouching Aphrodite oldest pizzeria, Est Est
from Villa Adriana, the 2nd-century-BC sleeping Est (Da Ricci; %06 488 11
Hermaphrodite, and the idealised vision of the 07; www.anticapizzeria
Discus Thrower. Also fascinating are the elabo- ricciroma.com; Via Genova
rate bronze fittings that belonged to Caligula’s 32; pizzas €6-15; h7pm-
ceremonial ships. midnight Tue-Sun; a;
gVia Nazionale), a
10-minute walk away.
 00
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Interior of the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
Sights
Basilica di Santa
Maria Maggiore BASILICA
1 1 Map p84, D3
One of Rome’s four patriarchal ba-
silicas, this monumental 5th-century
church stands on the summit of the
Esquiline Hill, on the spot where
snow is said to have miraculously
fallen in the summer of AD 358. To
commemorate the event, every year
on 5 August thousands of white petals
are released from the basilica’s cof-
fered ceiling. Much altered over the
centuries, it’s an architectural hybrid
with 14th-century Romanesque belfry,
18th-century baroque facade, largely
Sights 85
baroque interior and a series of glori-
ous 5th-century mosaics. (%06 6988
6800; Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore; basilica
free, adult/reduced museum €3/2, museum
& loggia €5/4; h7am-7pm, loggia guided
tours 9.30am-5.45pm; gPiazza Santa Maria
Maggiore)
Museo Nazionale Romano:
Terme di Diocleziano MUSEUM
2 1 Map p84, D1
The Terme di Diocleziano was ancient
Rome’s largest bath complex, covering
about 13 hectares and able to accom-
modate some 3000 people. Today its
ruins house a branch of the impressive
Museo Nazionale Romano. Exhibits,
which include memorial inscriptions,
86 Monti & Esquilino
bas-reliefs and archaeological arte-
facts, provide a fascinating insight
into Roman life. Outside, the vast
cloister, constructed from drawings by
Michelangelo, is lined with classical
sarcophagi, headless statues and huge
sculptured animal heads, thought to
have come from the Foro di Traiano.
(%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Viale
Enrico de Nicola 78; adult/reduced €7/3.50;
h9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; mTermini)
Domus Aurea ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
3 1 Map p84, B5
Nero had his Domus Aurea construct-
ed after the fire of AD 64 (which he
is rumoured to have started to clear
the area). Named after the gold that
lined its facade and interiors, it was a
huge complex covering up to a third
of the city. Making full use of virtual
reality, superb state-of-the-art guided
tours shed light on just how grand
the Golden House – a lavish villa with
porticoes – was. Advance online res-
ervations are obligatory. (Golden House;
%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Viale
della Domus Aurea; adult/under 6yr €14/free;
h9am-4.45pm Sat & Sun; mColosseo)
Basilica di San Pietro
in Vincoli BASILICA
4 1 Map p84, B5
Pilgrims and art lovers flock to this
5th-century basilica for two reasons:
to marvel at Michelangelo’s colossal
Moses (1505) sculpture and to see
the chains that supposedly bound St
Peter when he was imprisoned in the
Carcere Mamertino (near the Roman
Forum). Access to the church is via a
flight of steps through a low arch that
leads up from Via Cavour. (Piazza di San
Pietro in Vincoli 4a; h8am-12.30pm & 3-7pm
summer, to 6pm winter; mCavour)
Palazzo delle
Esposizioni CULTURAL CENTRE
5 1 Map p84, A3
This huge neoclassical palace was
built in 1882 as an exhibition centre,
though it has since served as head-
quarters for the Italian Communist
Party, a mess hall for Allied service-
men, a polling station and even a
public loo. Nowadays it’s a splendid
cultural hub, with cathedral-scale
exhibition spaces hosting blockbuster
art exhibitions and sleekly designed
art labs, as well as a bookshop, cafe
and Michelin-starred restaurant, An-
tonello Colonna Open (see opposite),
serving a bargain lunch or brunch
beneath a dazzling all-glass roof. Oc-
casional concerts, performances and
film screenings are also held here.
(%06 3996 7500; www.palazzoesposizioni.
it; Via Nazionale 194; h10am-8pm Tue-Thu &
Sun, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat; gVia Nazionale)
Piazza della Repubblica PIAZZA
6 1 Map p84, C1
Flanked by grand 19th-century neo-
classical colonnades, this landmark
piazza was laid out as part of Rome’s
post-unification makeover. It follows
the lines of the semicircular exedra
(benched portico) of Diocletian’s baths

complex and was originally known as
Piazza Esedra. (mRepubblica)
Basilica di
Santa Prassede CHURCH
7 1 Map p84, D4
Famous for its brilliant Byzantine mo-
saics, this tiny gem of a 9th-century
church is dedicated to St Praxedes, an
early Christian heroine who hid Chris-
tians fleeing persecution and buried
those she couldn’t save in a well. The
position of the well is now marked
by a marble disc on the floor of the
nave. (%06 488 24 56; Via Santa Prassede
9a; h7am-noon & 4-6.30pm; gPiazza Santa
Maria Maggiore)
Eating
Panella BAKERY, CAFE €
8 5 Map p84, D5
Pure heaven for foodies, this enticing
bakery is littered with well-used trays
of freshly baked pastries loaded with
confectioner’s custard, wild-cherry
fruit tartlets, pizza al taglio, arancini
and focaccia – the smell alone is
heavenly. Grab a bar stool between
shelves of gourmet groceries inside
or congratulate yourself on scoring
a table on the flowery, sun-flooded
terrace – one of Rome’s loveliest.
(%06 487 24 35; www.panellaroma.com; Via
Merulana 54; meals €7-15; h8am-11pm Mon-
Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 8.30am-4pm Sun;
mVittorio Emanuele)
Eating 87
Ai Tre Scalini WINE BAR €€
9 5 Map p84, A4
A firm favourite since 1895, the ‘Three
Steps’ is always packed, with crowds
spilling out of the funky violet-painted
door and into the street. Tuck into
a heart-warming array of cheeses,
salami and dishes such as polpette al
sugo (meatballs with sauce), washed
down with superb choices of wine or
beer. (%06 4890 7495; www.aitrescalini.org;
Via Panisperna 251; meals €25; h12.30pm-
1am; mCavour)
Antonello
Colonna Open ITALIAN €€€
10 5 Map p84, A2
Spectacularly set at the back of
Palazzo delle Esposizioni, super-chef
Antonello Colonna’s Michelin-starred
restaurant lounges dramatically under
a dazzling all-glass roof. Cuisine is
new Roman – innovative takes on
traditional dishes, cooked with wit
and flair – and the all-you-can-eat
lunch buffet and weekend brunch
are unbeatable value. On sunny days,
dine alfresco on the rooftop terrace.
(%06 4782 2641; www.antonellocolonna.it;
Via Milano 9a; lunch/brunch €16/30, meals
€16-100; h12.30-3.30pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sat,
12.30-3.30pm Sun; a; gVia Nazionale)
Temakinho SUSHI €€
11 5 Map p84, A4
In a city where most food is still
resolutely (though deliciously) Italian,
this Brazilian-Japanese hybrid serving
88 Monti & Esquilino
up sushi and ceviche makes for a
sensationally refreshing change. As
well as delicious, strong caipirinhas,
which combine Brazilian cachaça,
sugar, lime and fresh fruit, there are
‘sakehinhas’ made with sake. It’s very
popular; book ahead. (%06 4201 6656;
www.temakinho.com; Via dei Serpenti 16;
meals €40; h12.30-3.30pm & 7pm-midnight;
mCavour)
L’Asino d’Oro ITALIAN €€
12 5 Map p84, A4
This fabulous restaurant was trans-
planted from Orvieto, and its Umbrian
origins resonate in Lucio Sforza’s
exceptional cooking. Unfussy yet inno-
vative dishes feature bags of flavourful
contrasts, like lamb meatballs with
pear and blue cheese. Save room for
the equally amazing desserts. Intimate,
informal and classy, this is one of
Rome’s best deals – its lunch menu is
a steal. (%06 4891 3832; www.facebook.
com/asinodoro; Via del Boschetto 73; weekday
lunch menu €16, meals €45; h12.30-2.30pm
& 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat; mCavour)
Pasta Chef FAST FOOD €
13 5 Map p84, A4
‘Gourmet street food’ is the strapline
of this fast-food pasta joint where
chefs Mauro and Leopoldo whip up
steaming bowls of perfectly cooked
pasta laced with carbonara, pomo-
doro e basilico (tomato and basil),
bolognese and other classic sauces for
a discerning, budget-conscious crowd.
There’s a veggie lasagne and other
vegetarian options. The dynamic duo
also run pasta cooking classes. (%06
488 31 98; www.pastachefroma.it; Via Baccina
42; pasta €5-8; h12.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat;
mCavour)
Aromaticus HEALTH FOOD €
14 5 Map p84, B4
Few addresses exude such a healthy
vibe. Set within a shop selling
aromatic plants and edible flowers,
this inventive little cafe is the perfect
place to satisfy green cravings. Its
short but sweet menu features lots of
creative salads, soups and gaspacho,
tartare and carpaccio, juices and detox
smoothies – all to stay or go. (%06 488
13 55; www.aromaticus.it; Via Urbana 134;
meals €10-15; h11am-3pm & 6-8.30pm; W;
mCavour)
Mercato Centrale FOOD HALL €
15 5 Map p84, D2
A gourmet oasis for hungry travel-
lers at Stazione Termini, this dazzling
three-storey food hall is the latest
project of Florence’s savvy Umberto
Montano. You’ll find breads, pastries,
cakes, veggie burgers, fresh pasta,
truffles, pizza and a whole lot more
beneath towering vaulted 1930s ceil-
ings, as well as some of the city’s most
prized producers, including Gabriele
Bonci (breads, focaccia and pizza),
Roberto Liberati (salami), Marcella
Bianchi (vegetarian). (www.mercato
centrale.it/roma; Via Giolitti 36, Stazione
Termini; snacks/meals from €3/10; h7am-
midnight; W; mTermini)

CARLO BOLLO/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©
Food stall, Mercato Centrale
Drinking
La Casetta a Monti CAFE
16 6 Map p84, A5
Delicious cakes, pastries and the finest
chocolate salami in town is the name
of the game at this uber-cute cafe,
dolls house is size, run with much love
and passion by Eugenio and Alessan-
dro. Find the cafe, all fresh and sassy
after a 2017 restyle, in a low-lying
house with big windows and foliage-
draped facade in the cobbled heart
of Monti. There’s breakfast, lunch,
drinks and music too. (%06 482 7756;
www.facebook.com/lacasettadeimonti; Via
Drinking 89
Top Tip
Wine Tastings
With beautifully appointed century-
old cellars and a chic tasting studio,
Vino Roma (Map p84, B4; %328 487
44 97; www.vinoroma.com; Via in Selci
84g; 2hr tastings per person €50; mCa-
vour) guides novices and experts in
tasting wine under the knowledge-
able stewardship of sommelier
Hande Leimer and her expert team.
Also on offer is a wine-and-cheese
dinner (€60) with snacks, cheeses
and cold cuts to accompany the
wines, and bespoke three-hour
food tours. Book online.
90 Monti & Esquilino
Local Life
Pasticceria Regoli
At weekends a queue marks the
entrance to this elegant chandelier-
lit pasticceria (Map p84, D4; %06
487 2812; www.pasticceriaregoli.com; Via
dello Statuto 60; hcafe 6.30am-7.45pm
Wed-Sun, shop to 8.20pm; mVittorio
Emanuele), much-loved since 1916.
Its crostate (latticed jam tarts) are
iconic, and a maritozzi con panna
(sweet bread bun filled to bursting
with whipped cream) is the down-
right wicked speciality to order in
the neighbouring cafe – spot the
secret hatch hidden in a mirror
through which cakes are passed
between the two. Excellent ice
cream too.
della Madonna dei Monti 62; h9.30am-8pm
Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, 8.30am-9pm Sun;
W; mCavour)
La Bottega del Caffè CAFE
17 6 Map p84, A4
On one of Rome’s prettiest squares in
Monti, La Bottega del Caffè – named
after a comedy by Carlo Goldoni – is
the hot spot in Monti to linger over
coffee, drinks, snacks and lunch or
dinner. Heaters in winter ensure
balmy alfresco action year-round.
(%06 474 15 78; Piazza Madonna dei Monti 5;
h8am-2am; W; mCavour)
Entertainment
Teatro dell’Opera
di Roma OPERA, BALLET
18 3 Map p84, C2
Rome’s premier opera house boasts
a plush gilt interior, a Fascist 1920s
exterior and an impressive history: it
premiered Puccini’s Tosca, and Maria
Callas once sang here. Opera and bal-
let performances are staged between
September and June. (%06 48 16 01;
www.operaroma.it; Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1;
hbox office 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.30pm
Sun; mRepubblica)
Blackmarket LIVE MUSIC
19 3 Map p84, B3
A bit outside the main Monti hub,
this charming, living-room-style bar
filled with eclectic vintage furniture is
a small but rambling place, great for
sitting back on mismatched armchairs
and having a leisurely, convivial drink.
It hosts regular acoustic indie and
folk gigs, which feel a bit like having a
band in your living room. (www.black
marketartgallery.it/monti; Via Panisperna 101;
h7.30pm-2am; mCavour)
Charity Café LIVE MUSIC
20 3 Map p84, A4
Think narrow space, spindly tables,
dim lighting and laid-back vibe: this
is a place to snuggle down and listen
to some slinky live jazz and blues.

Civilised, relaxed, untouristy and very
Monti. Gigs usually take place from
10pm, with live music and aperitivo.
(%06 4782 5881; www.charitycafe.it; Via Pan-
isperna 68; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun; mCavour)
Shopping
Tina
Sondergaard FASHION & ACCESSORIES
21 7 Map p84, A4
Sublimely cut and whimsically retro-
esque, Tina Sondergaard’s handmade
threads for women are a hit with
fashion cognoscenti, including Italian
rock star Carmen Consoli and the
city’s theatre and TV crowd. You can
have adjustments made (included in
the price); dresses cost around €150.
(%334 385 07 99; Via del Boschetto 1d;
h3-7.30pm Mon, 10.30am-1pm & 1.30-7.30pm
Tue-Sat, closed Aug; mCavour)
Feltrinelli International BOOKS
22 7 Map p84, B1
The international branch of Italy’s
ubiquitous bookseller has a splendid
collection of books in English, Ital-
ian, Spanish, French, German and
Portuguese. You’ll find everything
from recent bestsellers to dictionaries,
travel guides, DVDs and an excellent
assortment of maps. (%06 482 78 78;
www.lafeltrinelli.it; Via VE Orlando 84-86;
h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1.30pm &
4-8pm Sun; mRepubblica)
Shopping 91
Mercato Monti
Urban Market MARKET
23 7 Map p84, A4
Vintage clothes, accessories, one-off
pieces by local designers: this market
in the hip ’hood of Monti is well
worth a rummage. (www.mercatomonti.
com; Via Leonina 46; h10am-8pm Fri-Sun
Sep-Jun; mCavour)
La Bottega
del Cioccolato FOOD
24 7 Map p84, A4
Run by the younger generation of
a long line of chocolatiers, this is
an exotic world of scarlet walls and
old-fashioned glass cabinets set into
black wood, with irresistible smells
wafting in from the kitchen and rows
of lovingly homemade chocolates on
display. Hot chocolate and cups of
milk chocolate, hazelnut or eggnog
mousse to take away too. (%06 482 14
73; www.labottegadelcioccolato.it; Via Leonina
82; h9.30am-7.30pm; mCavour)
Abito FASHION & ACCESSORIES
25 7 Map p84, A4
Wilma Silvestre, founder of local label
Le Gallinelle, designs elegant clothes
with a difference. Here at her Monti
boutique you can browse her chic,
laid-back styles and buy off the rack.
(%06 488 10 17; www.legallinelle.it; Via
Panisperna 61; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm
Sun; mCavour)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

92 Worth a Trip

Top Sights
Appian Way
Getting There
m J From Stazione
Termini: take metro
line A to the Colli-
Albani metro stop,
then bus 660 to the
end of the line; or take
line B to Circo Mas-
simo then bus 118 to
Via Appia Antica.
The Appian Way was known to the Romans as Regina
Viarum (Queen of Roads). Named after Appius
Claudius Caecus, who laid the first 90km section in 312
BC, it was extended in 190 BC to reach Brindisi on the
southern Adriatic coast. Today it is one of Rome’s most
exclusive addresses, a beautiful cobbled thoroughfare
flanked by fields, ruins and towering pines.
Villa di Massenzio
The outstanding feature of Maxentius’ enormous 4th-
century palace complex is the Circo di Massenzio (Via
Appia Antica 153; gVia Appia Antica), Rome’s best-preserved

Commemorative basreliefs by the side of the Appian Way

 Appian Way 93

%06 513 53 16
ancient racetrack – you can still make out the start-
ing stalls used for chariot races. The 10,000-seat www.parcoappiaantica.it
arena was built by Maxentius around 309, but he
died before ever seeing a race here. Above the arena hInfo Point 9.30am-sunset
are the ruins of his imperial residence. summer, 9.30am-1pm &
2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-5pm
Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella Sat & Sun winter
Dating to the 1st century BC, this great drum of a
mausoleum (%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Via gVia Appia Antica
Appia Antica 161; adult/reduced incl Terme di Caracalla &
Villa dei Quintili €6/3; h9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun; y Top Tips
gVia Appia Antica) encloses a burial chamber, now ffThe most pleasurable
roofless. In the 14th century it was converted into way of exploring the
a fort by the Caetani family, who used to frighten Appian Way is by bicycle.
passing traffic into paying a toll. Rent a set of wheels and
pick up maps at the Info
Villa dei Quintili Point Appia Antica at the
Towering over green fields, this 2nd-century villa northern end of the road.
(%06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Via Appia Nuova 1092; ffThe Info Point also
adult/reduced incl Terme di Caracalla & Mausoleo di Cecilia sells the Appia Antica
ALESSANDRO0770/GETTY IMAGES ©

Metella €6/3; h9am-1hr before sunset Tue-Sun; gVia Appia Card (€6), valid seven
Antica) is one of Rome’s unsung splendours. It was days and covering admis-
the luxurious abode of two consuls, the Quintili sion to three key sights
along the way.
brothers, but its splendour was their downfall: the
emperor Commodus had them both killed, taking
over the villa for himself. The highlight is the well- 5 Take a Break
preserved baths complex with a pool, caldarium
Take a coffee or beer
(hot bath room) and frigidarium (cold bath room).
break in the tree-shaded
Catacombe & Basilica di San Sebastiano garden of Appia Antica
A warren of tunnels, the Catacombe di San Caffè (Via Appia Antica 175;
Sebastiano (%06 785 03 50; www.catacombe.org; Via h9am-sunset); it sells
Appia Antica 136; adult/reduced €8/5; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat light snacks and pre-
Jan-Nov; gVia Appia Antica) were the first catacombs pares picnics too.
to be so called, the name deriving from the Greek Enjoy a garden lunch
kata (near) and kymbas (cavity), because they beneath orange trees
were located near a cave. During the persecution of at Il Giardino di Giulia
Christians by the emperor Vespasian from AD 258, e Fratelli (Via Appia
it’s believed that the catacombs were used as a safe Antica 176; hnoon-3pm &
haven for the remains of St Peter and St Paul and 7-11.30pm Tue-Sat).
became a popular pilgrimage site. Above ground, the
94 Worth a Trip

DEA/G. DAGLI ORTI/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Catacombe di San Callisto
4th-century basilica (Via Appia Antica 136;
h8am-1pm & 2-5.30pm; gVia Appia Antica)
dates mainly from the 17th century. In
the Capella delle Reliquie you’ll find one
of the arrows used to kill St Sebastian
and the column to which he was tied.
On the other side of the church is a
marble slab with Jesus’ footprints.
Catacombe di San Callisto
The Catacombe di San Callisto (%06
513 01 51; www.catacombe.roma.it; Via Appia
Antica 110-126; adult/reduced €8/5; h9am-
noon & 2-5pm Thu-Tue Mar-Jan; gVia Appia
Antica) are the largest and busiest of
Rome’s catacombs. Founded at the end
of the 2nd century, they became the
official cemetery of the newly estab-
lished Roman Church. In the 20km of
Appian Way 95
tunnels explored to date, archaeolo-
gists have found the tombs of 16 popes,
dozens of martyrs and thousands upon
thousands of Christians.
Catacombe di Santa Domitilla
Among Rome’s largest and oldest, the
wonderful Catacombe di Santa Domit-
illa (%06 511 03 42; www.domitilla.info; Via
delle Sette Chiese 282; adult/reduced €8/5;
h9am-noon & 2-5pm Wed-Mon mid-Jan–mid-
Dec; gVia Appia Antica) stretch for about
17km. They were established on the pri-
vate burial ground of Flavia Domitilla,
niece of the emperor Domitian and a
member of the wealthy Flavian family.
They contain Christian wall paintings
and the haunting underground Chiesa
di SS Nereus e Achilleus.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

96 San Giovanni & Celio

Explore

San Giovanni & Celio

Southeast of the centre, the mighty Basilica di San Giovanni in Lat-

erano is the principal drawcard of the handsome, largely residential
San Giovanni district. Nearby, the Celio (Caelian), one of Rome’s
original seven hills, rises to the south of the Colosseum. A tranquil
area of medieval churches and graceful greenery, it’s ideal for escap-
ing the crowds but offers little after-hours action.
 Explore 97

The Sights in a Day o Top Sight

BORISB17/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Start off at the landmark Basilica di San Giovanni in

M Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano (p98)
Laterano (p98), the focal point of
the largely residential San Giovanni
neighbourhood. It’s easily accessible x Best of Rome
by metro and quite magnificent, both History
inside and out. Once you’ve explored Basilica di San Clemente (p101)
the basilica and surrounding piazza, Case Romane (p102)
head down Via di San Giovanni in Lat-
erano towards the Colosseum. Near the Basilica di San Giovanni in
bottom, the Basilica di San Clemente Laterano (p98)
(p101) is a fascinating church with
some thrilling underground ruins. Stop Food
for lunch at cosy Cafè Cafè (p103). Aroma (p103)

Start the afternoon with a walk Bars & Nightlife

R to the Celio, the green hill that
rises south of the Colosseum. There’s
not a lot to see but the graceful Villa
Celimontana park (p102; pictured left)
is a great place to escape the crowds.
While you’re in the area, visit the
houses of Christian martyrs at Case
Romane (p102).
Dine at popular Divin Ostilia
N (p103) before heading to a wine
bar. Try Bibenda Wine Concept (p104)
for a great range of vintages or Il
Pentagrappolo (p104) for a laid-back
atmosphere and live music.
Bibenda Wine Concept (p104)
Architecture
Basilica di San Giovanni in
Laterano (p98)
Getting There
J Bus Useful bus routes include
85 and 87, both of which stop near
the Basilica di San Giovanni in
Laterano, and 714, which serves
San Giovanni.
m Metro San Giovanni is acces-
sible by metro line A.
U Tram Number 3 runs from San
Giovanni along Viale Aventino,
through Testaccio and on to
Trastevere.
98 San Giovanni & Celio

Top Sights
Basilica di San Giovanni
in Laterano
For a thousand years this monumental cathedral 1 Map p100, E3
was the most important church in Christen-
dom. Dating to the 4th century, it was the first Piazza di San Giovanni in
Christian basilica built in the city and, until the Laterano 4
late 14th century, it was the pope’s main place of basilica/cloister free/€5 with
worship. It’s still Rome’s official cathedral and audio guide
the pope’s seat as the bishop of Rome.
h7am-6.30pm, cloister
9am-6pm

mSan Giovanni

Interior of the basilica

 Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano 99

The Cloister
y Top Tips
To the left of the altar, the basilica’s 13th-century ffMake sure you look
down as well as up –
cloister is a lovely, peaceful place with graceful
the inlaid mosaic floor
twisted columns set around a central garden.
is a wonderful work of
Lining the ambulatories are marble fragments
art in its own right.
from the original church, including the remains
of a 5th-century papal throne and inscriptions of ffIn the cloister, look
two papal bulls. out for a slab of por-
phyry on which it’s said
The Facade Roman soldiers threw
Surmounted by 15 7m-high statues – Christ with lots to win the robe of
St John the Baptist, John the Evangelist and the the crucified Christ.
12 Apostles – Galilei’s huge facade is an impos- ffCheck out the Giotto
ing work of late-baroque classicism. Behind the fresco on the first col-
colossal columns there are five sets of doors in umn in the right-hand
the portico. The central bronze doors were moved aisle.
here from the Curia in the Roman Forum, while,
on the far right, the Holy Door is only opened in ffThere’s an informa-
Jubilee years. tion office to the right of
the portico, open 9am
LEFTERIS PAPAULAKIS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The Interior to 5pm.

The cavernous interior owes much of its present
look to Francesco Borromini, who styled it for 5 Take a Break
the 1650 Jubilee. It’s a breathtaking sight with a
golden gilt ceiling, a 15th-century mosaic floor, There are few recom-
and a wide nave lined with 18th-century sculp- mended eateries right
tures of the apostles. by the basilica so you’re
At the end of the nave, an elaborate Gothic better off finishing
baldachin stands over the papal altar. Dating to your tour and heading
the 14th century, this is said to contain the relics downhill towards the
of the heads of Sts Peter and Paul. In front, a Colosseum. Here you
double staircase leads down to the confessio and can lunch on classic
the tomb of Pope Martin V (r 1417–31). trattoria food at Il Boc-
At the other end of the basilica, on the first concino (p104) or tasty
pillar in the right-hand aisle, is an incomplete cafe fare at Cafè Cafè
Giotto fresco. Cock your ear towards the next (p103).
column, where a monument to Pope Sylvester II
(r 999–1003) is said to creak when the death of a
pope is imminent.
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Mosaic, Basilica di San Clemente
Sights
Basilica di
San Clemente BASILICA
1 1 Map p100, B2
Nowhere better illustrates the various
stages of Rome’s turbulent past than
this fascinating multi-layered church.
The ground-level 12th-century basilica
sits atop a 4th-century church, which,
in turn, stands over a 2nd-century tem-
ple to Mithras (p104) and a 1st-century
Roman house. Beneath everything are
foundations dating from the Roman
Republic. (www.basilicasanclemente.com; Pi-
azza San Clemente; excavations adult/reduced
€10/5; h9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat,
12.15-6pm Sun; gVia Labicana)
Sights 101
Chiesa di Santo
Stefano Rotondo CHURCH
2 1 Map p100, B3
Set in its own secluded grounds, this
haunting church boasts a porticoed
facade and a round, columned interior.
But what really gets the heart racing is
the graphic wall decor – a cycle of 16th-
century frescoes depicting the tortures
suffered by early Christian martyrs. De-
scribing them in 1846, Charles Dickens
wrote: ‘Such a panorama of horror and
butchery no man could imagine in his
sleep, though he were to eat a whole
pig, raw, for supper’. (www.santo-stefano-
rotondo.it; Via di Santo Stefano Rotondo 7;
h10am-1pm & 2.30-5.30pm winter, 10am-1pm
& 3.30-6.30pm summer; gVia Claudia)
102 San Giovanni & Celio
Santuario della
Scala Santa &
Sancta Sanctorum CHRISTIAN SITE
3 1 Map p100, E2
The Scala Santa, said to be the stair-
case that Jesus walked up in Pontius
Pilate’s Jerusalem palace, was brought
to Rome by St Helena in the 4th
century. Pilgrims consider it sacred
and climb it on their knees, saying
a prayer on each of the 28 steps. At
the top, behind iron grating, is the
richly decorated Sancta Sanctorum
(Holy of Holies), formerly the pope’s
private chapel. (www.scala-santa.it; Piazza
di San Giovanni in Laterano 14; Scala free,
Sancta with/without audio guide €5/3.50;
hScala 6am-2pm & 3-7pm summer, to 6pm
winter, Sancta Sanctorum 9.30am-12.45pm &
3-4.45pm Mon-Sat; mSan Giovanni)
Villa Celimontana PARK
4 1 Map p100, B4
With its grassy banks and colourful
flower beds, this leafy park is a won-
derful place to escape the crowds and
enjoy a summer picnic. At its centre is
a 16th-century villa housing the Italian
Geographical Society, while to the
south stands a 12m-plus Egyptian ob-
elisk. (h7am-sunset; gVia della Navicella)
Case Romane CHRISTIAN SITE
5 1 Map p100, A3
According to tradition, two martyred
Roman soldiers, John and Paul, lived
in these subterranean houses beneath
the Basilica dei SS Giovanni e Paolo
al Celio (Piazza dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo;
h8.30am-noon & 3.30-6pm; gVia Claudia)
before they were beheaded by the em-
peror Julian. There’s actually no direct
evidence for this, although research
has revealed that the houses were
used for Christian worship. There are
more than 20 rooms, many of them
richly decorated. Entry is to the side
of the basilica on the Clivo di Scauro.
(%06 7045 4544; www.caseromane.it; Clivo
di Scauro; adult/reduced €8/6; h10am-1pm
& 3-6pm Thu-Mon; gVia Claudia)
Basilica dei SS Quattro
Coronati BASILICA
6 1 Map p100, C2
This brooding fortified church
harbours some lovely 13th-century
frescoes and a delightful hidden
cloister, accessible from the left-hand
aisle. The frescoes, in the Oratorio
di San Silvestro, depict the story of
Constantine and pope Sylvester I and
the so-called Donation of Constantine
(p103), a notorious forged document
with which the emperor suppos-
edly ceded control of Rome and the
Western Roman Empire to the papacy.
To access the Oratorio, ring the bell
in the entrance courtyard. (%06 7047
5427; Via dei Santi Quattro 20; cloisters
€2, Oratorio di San Silvestro €1; hbasilica
6.30am-12.45pm & 3.30-8pm, cloister 9.45-
11.45am & 3.45-5.45pm Mon-Sat; gVia di San
Giovanni in Laterano)
 Eating 103

Understand
The Donation of Constantine

The most famous forgery in medieval history, the Donation of Constantine is

a document with which the emperor Constantine purportedly grants Pope
Sylvester I (r 314−35) and his successors control of Rome and the Western
Roman Empire, as well as primacy over the holy sees of Antioch, Alexandria,
Constantinople, Jerusalem and all the world’s churches.
No one is exactly sure when the document was written but the consensus
is that it dates to the mid- or late 8th century. Certainly this fits with the
widespread theory that the author was a Roman cleric, possibly working with
the knowledge of Pope Stephen II (r 752−57).
For centuries the donation was accepted as genuine and used by popes
to justify their territorial claims. But in 1440 the Italian philosopher Lorenzo
Valla proved that it was a forgery. By analysing the Latin used in the docu-
ment he was able to show that it was inconsistent with the Latin used in the
4th century.

Divin Ostilia
Eating WINE BAR, TRATTORIA €€

Aroma RISTORANTE €€€

7 5 Map p100, B1
One for a special occasion, the rooftop
restaurant of the Palazzo Manfredi
hotel offers once-in-a-lifetime views of
the Colosseum and Michelin-starred
food that rises to the occasion. Over-
seeing the kitchen is chef Giuseppe Di
Iorio, whose seasonal menus reflect
his passion for luxurious, forward-
thinking Mediterranean cuisine. (%06
9761 5109; www.aromarestaurant.it; Via
Labicana 125; meals €120-150; h12.30-3pm
& 7.30-11.30pm; gVia Labicana)
8 5 Map p100, B1
Ever popular Divin Ostilia is a model
wine bar with wooden shelves lined
with bottles and a high brick ceiling.
It’s a well-known spot and its cosy
interior gets busy at mealtimes as
diners squeeze in to feast on cheese
and cured meats, grilled steaks and
classic pasta dishes. (%06 7049 6526; Via
Ostilia 4; meals €30-35; hnoon-1am; gVia
Labicana)
Cafè Cafè BISTRO €
9 5 Map p100, B2
Cosy, relaxed and welcoming, this
cafe-bistro is a far cry from the usual
impersonal eateries in the Colosseum
104 San Giovanni & Celio
Understand
Mithraism
The cult of Mithraism was hugely
popular in ancient military circles.
According to its mythology, the
Sun ordered Mithras, a young,
handsome god, to slay a wild bull.
As the animal died, it gave life, its
blood causing wheat and other
plants to grow.
Mithraic temples, known as
Mithraeums, were almost always
in underground locations or caves,
reflecting the cult’s belief that
caverns represented the cosmos.
In these Mithraeums, devotees
underwent complex initiation
rites, and ate bread and water to
symbolise the body and blood of
the bull. Sound familiar? The early
Christians thought so too, and
were fervently opposed to the cult.
area. With its rustic wooden tables,
butternut walls and wine bottles, it’s
a charming spot in which to charge
your batteries over an egg and bacon
breakfast, a light lunch, or afternoon
tea and homemade cake. (%06 700 87
43; www.cafecafebistrot.it; Via dei Santi Quat-
tro 44; meals €15-20; h9.30am-8.50pm;
gVia di San Giovanni in Laterano)
Il Bocconcino LAZIO CUISINE €€
10 5 Map p100, B2
One of the better options in the
touristy pocket near the Colosseum,
this easy-going trattoria stands out
for its authentic regional cooking
and use of locally sourced seasonal
ingredients. Daily specials are chalked
up on blackboards or there’s a regular
menu of classic Roman pastas, grilled
meats, fish and imaginative desserts.
(%06 7707 9175; www.ilbocconcino.com; Via
Ostilia 23; meals €30-35; h12.30-3.30pm &
7.30-11.30pm Thu-Tue; gVia Labicana)
Drinking
Bibenda Wine Concept WINE BAR
11 6 Map p100, B2
Wine buffs looking to excite their
palate should search out this smart
modern enoteca. Boasting a white,
light-filled interior, it has an extensive
list of Italian regional labels and
European vintages, as well as a small
daily food menu. Wines are available
to drink by the glass or buy by the
bottle. (%06 7720 6673; www.wineconcept.
it; Via Capo d’Africa 21; hnoon-3pm & 6pm-
midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, closed Sat
lunch & Sun; gVia Labicana)
Il Pentagrappolo WINE BAR
12 6 Map p100, B2
This vaulted, softly lit wine bar is
the perfect antidote to sightseeing
overload. Join the mellow crowd for
an evening of wine, piano music and
jazz courtesy of the frequent live gigs.
There’s also a full menu served at
lunch and dinner. (%06 709 63 01; Via
Celimontana 21b; hnoon-3pm & 6pm-1am
Mon-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri-Sun; mColosseo)

GIOVANNI BOSCHERINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Alfresco bar
Coming Out BAR
13 6 Map p100, B1
On warm evenings, with lively crowds
on the street and the Colosseum as a
backdrop, there are few finer places
to sip a drink at than this friendly gay
bar. It’s open all day, but is at its best
in the evening when the atmosphere
hots up, the cocktails kick in and
the drag shows and karaoke nights
get under way. (%06 700 98 71; www.
comingout.it; Via di San Giovanni in Laterano
8; h7.30am-2am; gVia Labicana)
Shopping 105
Shopping
Soul Food MUSIC
14 7 Map p100, C2
Run by Hate Records, Soul Food
is a laid-back record store with an
eclectic collection of vinyl that runs
the musical gamut, from ’60s garage
and rockabilly to punk, indie, new
wave, folk, funk and soul. You’ll also
find retro T-shirts, fanzines and other
groupie clobber. (%06 7045 2025; www.
haterecords.com; Via di San Giovanni in Lat-
erano 192; h10.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm
Tue-Sat; gVia di San Giovanni in Laterano)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

106 Worth a Trip

Local Life
Ostiense & San Paolo

.
#
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4 # Stazione
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1 Basilica di San Paolo Fuori
le Mura
Start your tour at the Basilica di San
Paolo Fuori le Mura (%06 6988 0803;
www.basilicasanpaolo.org; Via Ostiense 190;
adult/reduced €4/3; h7am-6.30pm; mBa-
silica San Paolo), the world’s third largest
church. Much of the original basilica
was destroyed by fire in 1823 but a
few features have survived, including
the 5th-century triumphal arch, with
its heavily restored mosaics, and the
Gothic tabernacle.
2 Garbatella
To experience one of Rome’s most idi-
osyncratic neighbourhoods, make for
Garbatella, a colourful garden suburb
that was developed in the 1920s and
’30s to house people who’d been dis-
placed by fascist construction projects
in the city centre.
3 Lunch at Eataly
For lunch, push on to Eataly (www.
eataly.net; Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492; meals
€10-50; hshops 9am-midnight, restaurants
typically noon-3.30pm & 7-11pm; W; mPira-
mide), a vast foodie complex with 19
restaurants and cafes.
4 Street Art on Via del
Porto Fluviale
Stroll down Via del Porto Fluviale,
home to some of Rome’s most inven-
tive street art. Ostiense’s abandoned
factories boast some impressive mu-
rals by the Bolognese artist Blu.
Ostiense & San Paolo 107
5 Coffee & Cakes at Andreotti
Treat yourself to afternoon coffee and
cake at Andreotti (%06 575 07 73; www.
andreottiroma.it; Via Ostiense 54; pastries
from €1.20; h7.30am-10pm; gVia Ostiense,
mPiramide). Local film director Ferzan
Ozpetek is a fan and has been known
to cast its treats in his films.
6 Sculpture at Central
Montemartini
The Museo Capitoline Centrale
Montemartini (Museums at Centrale
Montemartini; %06 06 08; www.centrale
montemartini.org; Via Ostiense 106; adult/
reduced €7.50/6.50, incl Capitoline Museums
€16/14, ticket valid 7 days; h9am-7pm
Tue-Sun; gVia Ostiense) is a striking
outpost of the Capitoline Museums. In
an ex-powerplant, ancient sculpture
is juxtaposed against engines and
furnaces.
7 Aperitivo at Doppiozeroo
Between 6pm and 9pm, fashion-
conscious Romans flock to urbane
Doppiozeroo (%06 5730 1961; www.
doppiozeroo.com; Via Ostiense 68; meals €15;
h7am-2am; gVia Ostiense, mPiramide) for
its famously lavish aperitivo buffet.
8 Cool Clubbing
Ostiense is serious clubbing coun-
try, where top-notch DJs dish out
anything from nu-house to thumping
techno. Trendy clubs clustered on and
around Via Libetta include Vinile (www.
vinileroma.it), Circolo Illuminati (www.
circolodegliilluminati.it), Goa (www.goaclub.
com) and Neo Club (www.piovra.it).
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

108 Aventino & Testaccio

Explore

Aventino & Testaccio

Rising above the mighty ruins of the Terme di Caracalla, the

Aventino (Aventine Hill) is a graceful district of villas, lush gardens
and austere churches. At the top, Via di Santa Sabina boasts one of
Rome’s great curiosities – a keyhole view of St Peter’s dome (pictured
above). Below, the traditional working-class district of Testaccio is a
popular nightlife hang-out and a bastion of classical Roman cuisine.
 Explore 109

The Sights in a Day x Best of Rome

MATTEO GABRIELI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Start your day exploring the History

M Terme di Caracalla (p111), one Terme di Caracalla (p111)
of ancient Rome’s largest bath com-
plexes. Once you’re done, push on to Food
Testaccio for a taste of neighbourhood Da Felice (p113)
life. Join the locals for a nose around
the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio Flavio al Velavevodetto (p113)
(p113) then grab a takeaway lunch from Mordi e Vai (p113)
Trapizzino (p113).
Trapizzino (p113)

See in the afternoon at the

R Cimitero Acattolico per gli
Architecture
Terme di Caracalla (p111)
Stranieri (p112), the final resting place
of poets Keats and Shelley, before hik- Basilica di Santa Sabina (p112)
ing up to the Aventino. It’s quite a walk
but worth it for the remarkable keyhole Shopping
view from the Villa del Priorato di Volpetti (p115)
Malta (p111) and the heart-melting
Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio (p113)
panoramas from Parco Savello (p112).
While up here, be sure to look into the
austere Basilica di Santa Sabina Culture
(p112). ConteStaccio (p115)

Spend the evening in Testaccio.

N Dine on fab Roman fare at Fla-
vio al Velavevodetto (p113) and then
let your hair down at live-music venue
ConteStaccio (p115).
Getting There
J Bus Route 714 serves the Terme
di Caracalla.
m Metro For Testaccio take line
B to Piramide. The Aventino is
walkable from Testaccio, and Circo
Massimo station (line B).
U Tram Number 3 runs from San
Giovanni along Viale Aventino,
through Testaccio and on to
Trastevere.
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VIACHES LAV LOPATIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Ruins of Terme di Caracalla
Sights
Terme di
Caracalla ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
1 1 Map p110, E3
The remains of the emperor Cara-
calla’s vast bath-house complex are
among Rome’s most awe-inspiring
ruins. Inaugurated in AD 216, the
original 10-hectare site, which com-
prised baths, gyms, libraries, shops
and gardens, was used by up to 8000
people daily.Most of the ruins are
what’s left of the central bath house.
This was a huge rectangular edifice
bookended by two palestre (gyms) and
centred on a frigidarium (cold room),
where bathers would stop after spells
Sights 111
in the warmer tepidarium and dome-
capped caldaria (hot room). (%06 3996
7700; www.coopculture.it; Viale delle Terme
di Caracalla 52; adult/reduced €6/3; h9am-
1hr before sunset Tue-Sun, 9am-2pm Mon;
gViale delle Terme di Caracalla)
Villa del Priorato
di Malta HISTORIC BUILDING
2 1 Map p110, B1
Fronting an ornate cypress-shaded
piazza, the Roman headquarters of
the Sovereign Order of Malta, aka the
Cavalieri di Malta (Knights of Malta),
boasts one of Rome’s most celebrated
views. It’s not immediately apparent,
but look through the keyhole in the
Villa’s green door and you’ll see the
dome of St Peter’s Basilica perfectly
112 Aventino & Testaccio
aligned at the end of a hedge-lined
avenue. (Villa Magistrale; Piazza dei Cavalieri
di Malta; gLungotevere Aventino)
Basilica di Santa Sabina BASILICA
3 1 Map p110, C1
This solemn basilica, one of Rome’s
most beautiful early Christian church-
es, was founded by Peter of Illyria in
around AD 422. It was enlarged in the
9th century and again in 1216, just be-
fore it was given to the newly founded
Dominican order – note the tombstone
of Muñoz de Zamora, one of the order’s
founding fathers, in the nave floor. A
20th-century restoration returned it to
its original look. (%06 57 94 01; Piazza Pi-
etro d’Illiria 1; h8.15am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm;
gLungotevere Aventino)
Parco Savello PARK
4 1 Map p110, C1
Known to Romans as the Giardino de-
gli Aranci (Orange Garden), this walled
park is a romantic haven. Head down
the central avenue, passing towering
umbrella pines and lawns of bloom-
ing orange trees, to bask in heavenly
sunset views of St Peter’s dome and
the city’s rooftops. (Via di Santa Sabina;
h7am-6pm Oct-Feb, to 8pm Mar & Sep, to 9pm
Apr-Aug; gLungotevere Aventino)
Cimitero Acattolico
per gli Stranieri CEMETERY
5 1 Map p110, B4
Despite the roads that surround it,
Rome’s ‘non-Catholic’ Cemetery is
a verdant oasis of peace. An air of
Grand Tour romance hangs over
the site where up to 4000 people lie
buried, including poets Keats and
Shelley, and Italian political thinker
Antonio Gramsci. Among the grave-
stones and cypress trees, look out for
the Angelo del Dolore (Angel of Grief ),
a much-replicated 1894 sculpture
that US artist William Wetmore Story
created for his wife’s grave. (www.
cemeteryrome.it; Via Caio Cestio 5; voluntary
donation €3; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm
Sun; mPiramide)
Eating
Romeo e
Giulietta RISTORANTE, PIZZA €€
6 5 Map p110, B2
Occupying a former car showroom,
this contemporary multi-space food
hub is the latest offering from top
Roman chef, Cristina Bowerman.
The centre of operations is Romeo
Chef & Baker (%06 3211 0120 https://
romeo.roma.it; meals €40; h10am-2am),
a designer deli, cocktail bar and
restaurant offering modern Italian
and inter­national fare, but there’s
also Giulietta Pizzeria (%06 4522
9022; https://giuliettapizzeria.it; pizzas
€6.50-12; h7pm-midnight daily, noon-3pm
Sat-Sun) dishing up sensational wood-
fired pizzas, and, a short hop away,
Frigo, an artisanal gelateria. (Piazza
dell’Emporio 28; gVia Marmorata)

Trapizzino FAST FOOD €
7 5 Map p110, A3
The original of what is now a grow-
ing countrywide chain, this is the
birthplace of the trapizzino, a kind
of hybrid sandwich made by stuffing
a cone of doughy focaccia with fillers
like polpette al sugo (meatballs in
tomato sauce) or pollo alla cacciatore
(stewed chicken). They’re messy to eat
but quite delicious. (%06 4341 9624;
www.trapizzino.it; Via Branca 88; trapizzini
from €3.50; hnoon-1am Tue-Sun; gVia
Marmorata)
Flavio al Velavevodetto ROMAN €€
8 5 Map p110, B3
Housed in a rustic Pompeian-red villa
set into the side of Monte Testac-
cio, a man-made hill of smashed
Roman amphorae, this casual eatery
is celebrated locally for its earthy,
no-nonsense cucina romana (Roman
cuisine). Expect antipasti of cheeses,
cured meats and fried titbits, huge
helpings of homemade pastas, and
uncomplicated meat dishes. (%06
574 41 94; www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it;
Via di Monte Testaccio 97-99; meals €30-35;
h12.30-3pm & 7.45-11pm; gVia Galvani)
Da Felice ROMAN €€
9 5 Map p110, B3
Much loved by local foodies and
well-dressed diners, this historic
stalwart is famous for its unwavering
dedication to Roman culinary tradi-
Eating 113
Local Life
Nuovo Mercato di
Testaccio
Testaccio’s neighbourhood market
(Map p110, A3; entrances Via Galvani,
Via Beniamino Franklin, Via Volta, Via
Manuzio, Via Ghiberti; h7am-3.30pm
Mon-Sat; gVia Marmorata) hums with
morning activity as locals go about
their daily shopping for produce,
shoes and clothes. Several stalls
also serve fantastic street food,
including gourmet Cups (Box 44;
dishes €5-8; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat; gVia
Galvini) and traditional Mordi e Vai
(www.mordievai.it; Box 15; panini €3.50-5;
h8am-3pm Mon-Sat; gVia Galvani).
tions. In contrast to the light-touch
modern decor, the menu is pure old
school with a classic weekly timetable:
pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans) on
Tuesdays, bollito di manzo (boiled
beef ) on Thursdays, fish on Fridays.
Reservations essential. (%06 574 68 00;
www.feliceatestaccio.it; Via Mastro Giorgio
29; meals €30-40; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-11pm;
gVia Marmorata)
Pizzeria Da Remo PIZZA €
10 5 Map p110, A2
For an authentic Roman experience,
join the noisy crowds here, one of the
city’s best-known and most popular
pizzerias. It’s a spartan-looking place,
but the fried starters and thin-crust
Roman pizzas are the business, and
there’s a cheerful, boisterous vibe.
114 Aventino & Testaccio
Top Tip
Opera in the Ruins
The Teatro dell’Opera (www.opera
roma.it) stages a summer season
of music, opera and ballet among
the hulking ruins of the Terme di
Caracalla (p111).
Expect to queue after 8.30pm. (%06
574 62 70; Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice
44; meals €15; h7pm-1am Mon-Sat; gVia
Marmorata)
Il Gelato GELATO €
11 5 Map p110, D2
This is the Aventine outpost of Rome’s
ice-cream king, Claudio Torcè. His
creamy creations are seasonal and
preservative free, ranging from the
classic to the decidedly not – anyone
for green tea or gorgonzola? (Viale Aven-
tino 59; gelato €2-4.50; h10am-midnight
summer, 11am-9pm winter; gViale Aventino)
Drinking
Rec 23 BAR
12 6 Map p110, B2
All exposed brick and mismatched fur-
niture, this large, New York–inspired
venue caters to all moods, serving
aperitivo, restaurant meals and a
weekend brunch. Arrive thirsty to
take on a Bud Spencer, one from the
ample list of cocktails, or get to grips
with the selection of Scottish whiskies
and Latin American rums. Thursday’s
blues aperitif is a popular weekly ap-
pointment. (%06 8746 2147; www.rec23.
com; Piazza dell’Emporio 2; h6.30pm-2am
daily & 12.30-3.30pm Sat & Sun; gVia
Marmorata)
Casa Manfredi CAFE
13 6 Map p110, D2
Very ‘in’ when we visited, Casa
Manfredi is a good-looking cafe in the
wealthy Aventine neighbourhood. Join
well-dressed locals for a quick coffee
in the gleaming glass and chandelier
interior, a light al fresco lunch or chic
evening aperitivo. It also does a tasty
line in artisanal gelato. (%06 9760
5892; Viale Aventino 93; h7am-9pm; gViale
Aventino, jViale Aventino)
L’Oasi della Birra BAR
14 6 Map p110, B3
Housed in the Palombi Enoteca, a
longstanding bottle shop on Piazza
Testaccio, this is exactly what it says it
is – an Oasis of Beer. With hundreds
of labels, from Teutonic heavyweights
to British bitters and Belgian brews,
as well as wines, cheeses and cold
cuts, it’s ideally set up for an evening’s
quaffing, either in the cramped cellar
or piazza-side terrace. (%06 574 61 22;
Piazza Testaccio 41; h4pm-12.30am; gVia
Marmorata)

RIKARD STADLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Gelato bar
Entertainment
ConteStaccio LIVE MUSIC
15 3 Map p110, B4
With an under-the-stars terrace and
buzzing vibe, ConteStaccio is one
of the top venues on the Testaccio
clubbing strip. It’s something of a
multi-purpose outfit with a cocktail
bar, pizzeria and restaurant, but is
best known for its free live music.
Gigs by emerging groups set the tone,
spanning indie, rock, acoustic, funk
and electronic genres. (%06 5728 9712;
www.contestaccio.com; Via di Monte Testaccio
65b; h8pm-4am Thu-Sun; gVia Galvani)
Entertainment 115
Shopping
Volpetti FOOD & DRINKS
16 7 Map p110, B3
This super-stocked deli, consid-
ered by many the best in town, is a
treasure trove of gourmet delicacies.
Helpful staff will guide you through
the extensive selection of smelly
cheeses, homemade pastas, olive oils,
vinegars, cured meats, veggie pies,
wines and grappas. It also serves
excellent sliced pizza. (www.volpetti.com;
Via Marmorata 47; h8.30am-2pm & 4.30-
8.15pm Mon-Wed, 8.30am-8.15pm Thu-Sat;
gVia Marmorata)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

116 Trastevere & Gianicolo

Explore

Trastevere & Gianicolo

With its old-world cobbled lanes, ochre palazzi (mansions), ivy-clad

facades and boho vibe, ever-trendy Trastevere (pictured above) is one
of Rome’s most vivacious neighbourhoods. Outrageously photogenic,
its labyrinth of backstreets heaves after dark as crowds swarm to its
fashionable restaurants, cafes and bars. Rising up behind all this,
Gianicolo Hill offers a breath of fresh air and a superb view of Rome.

The Sights in a Day
FUTUREGALORE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Start the day by paying homage
M to St Cecilia, the patron saint of
music, at the Basilica di Santa Cecilia
in Trastevere (p123). Next, head over
to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and
the neighbourhood’s main must-see,
the Basilica di Santa Maria in Traste-
vere (p118). For a final flourish before
lunch, continue on to Villa Farnesina
(p124), a palatial Renaissance villa
famed for its Raphael frescoes.
After lunch at Da Enzo (p121)
R retrace your footsteps back
to Galleria Corsini (p123). Next, take
an hour or so to chill out in the nearby
Orto Botanico (p124). Recharged,
head up to Gianicolo Hill (p124) to
admire the superb rooftop views.
Dine on Roman favourites at
N classic trattoria Da Teo (p126)
then treat yourself to handmade gelato
from Fior di Luna (p125). Beer aficio-
nados will want to try the craft beer at
Bir & Fud (p128).
For a local’s evening in Trastevere and
Gianicolo, see p120.
Explore 117
o Top Sight
Basilica di Santa Maria in
Trastevere (p118)
l Local Life
Night Out in Trastevere &
Gianicolo (p120)
x Best of Rome
Food
Da Augusto (p121)
Da Enzo (p125)
Fior di Luna (p125)
Bars & Nightlife
Freni e Frizioni (p121)
Pimm’s Good (p126)
Getting There
U Tram From Largo di Torre Ar-
gentina, tram 8 runs along the
main drag of Viale di Trastevere,
ending up at Villa Doria Pamphilj.
No 3 also stops at the southern
end of Viale Trastevere, connecting
with Testaccio (Via Marmorata),
Colosseo, San Giovanni and Villa
Borghese.
J Bus From Termini, bus H runs
to Viale di Trastevere, while No
780 runs from Piazza Venezia. For
Gianicolo, if you don’t fancy the
steep steps from Via G Mameli,
take bus No 870 from Piazza
delle Rovere.
118 Trastevere & Gianicolo

Top Sights
Basilica di Santa Maria in
Trastevere
This glittering church is said to be the oldest 1 Map p122, B3
church in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
Its facade is decorated with a beautiful medieval %06 581 4802
mosaic depicting Mary feeding Jesus surrounded Piazza Santa Maria in
by 10 women bearing lamps. Two are veiled and Trastevere
hold extinguished lamps, symbolising widow-
hood, while the lit lamps of the others represent h7.30am-9pm Sep-Jul, 8am-
their virginity. noon & 4-9pm Aug

gViale di Trastevere, jViale

di Trastevere

Facade and balustrade of the basilica

 Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere 119

Construction
y Top Tips
The church was first constructed in the early ffAllow plenty of time
to linger on the piazza
3rd century over the spot where, according to
in front of the church
legend, a fountain of oil miraculously sprang
afterwards – it’s Traste-
from the ground. Its current Romanesque form,
vere’s focal square and
including the bell tower and glittering facade, is a prime people-watching
the result of a 12th-century revamp. The portico spot.
was added later by Carlo Fontana in 1702, with
its balustrade decorated with statues of four ffVisit early in the morn-
popes. ing or at the end of the
day when the softer light
Mosaics shows off the beautiful
Inside, it’s the golden 12th-century mosaics that Romanesque facade
stand out. In the apse, look out for the dazzling (currently under wraps
depiction of Christ and his mother flanked by as painstaking restora-
tion takes place).
various saints and, on the far left, Pope Innocent
II holding a model of the church. Beneath this is
a series of six mosaics by Pietro Cavallini (c 1291) 5 Take a Break
illustrating the life of the Virgin.
Grab a cappuccino
BILDAGENTUR ZOONAR GMBH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Interior Design or a glass of Rome’s

Note the 21 Roman columns, some plundered cheapest beer at Bar
from the Terme di Caracalla; the wooden ceiling San Calisto (p121), a
designed in 1617 by Domenichino; and, on the staunchly local haunt
right of the altar, a spiralling Cosmati candle- just footsteps from the
stick, on the exact spot where the oil fountain is touristy church square.
said to have sprung. The Cappella Avila is also Tuck into some of the
worth a look for its stunning 17th-century dome. best Roman cuisine in
The spiralling Cosmatesque floor, a re-creation Trastevere at Da Au-
of the 13th-century original, was relaid in the gusto (p121); arrive at
1870s. 12.30pm on the dot to
ensure a table.
 120 Trastevere & Gianicolo

Local Life
Night Out in Trastevere &
Gianicolo
With its enchanting lanes, vibrant 1 Views on the Gianicolo
piazzas and carnival atmosphere, The early evening is a good time to
Trastevere is one of the city’s enjoy sweeping panoramic views from
favourite after-dark hang-outs. the Gianicolo. This leafy hill, Rome’s
Foreigners love it, but it’s also a
highest, was the scene of vicious fight-
local haunt and Romans come
ing during Italian unification but is
here in swaths, particularly on
balmy summer nights when street
now a tranquil, romantic spot. Lap up
sellers set up camp on the pictur- the vibe with a drink from Bar Stuzzi-
esque alleyways and bar crowds chini (h7.30am-1am or 2am; gPasseggiata
spill out onto the streets. del Gianicolo) on Piazzale Giuseppe
Garibaldi.
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 Night Out in Trastevere & Gianicolo
2 Aperitivo at Freni e Frizioni
Once back down in the fray, head to
Freni e Frizioni (%06 4549 7499; www.
freniefrizioni.com; Via del Politeama 4-6;
h7pm-2am; gPiazza Trilussa) for an
aperitivo. This perennially cool bar
pulls in a spritz-loving young crowd
that swells onto the small piazza out-
side to sip cocktails (from €10) and fill
up at the bar buffet (7pm to 10pm).
3 Dinner at Da Augusto
For a real Trastevere dining experi-
ence, bag one of the rickety outside
tables at Da Augusto (%06 580 37 98;
Piazza de’ Renzi 15; meals €25; h12.30-3pm
& 8-11pm; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di
Trastevere) and tuck into some truly
fabulous mamma-style cooking on one
of Trastevere’s prettiest piazza terraces.
Hearty portions of all the Roman clas-
sics are dished up here as well as lots
of rabbit, veal, hare and pajata (calf
intestines). Winter dining is around
vintage formica tables in a bare-bones
interior, unchanged for decades. Be
prepared to queue. Cash only.
4 Hanging Out on Piazza di
Santa Maria in Trastevere
Trastevere’s focal square, Piazza di
Santa Maria in Trastevere (gViale di
Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere), is a prime
people-watching spot. By day it’s full
of chatting locals and guidebook-
toting tourists but by night the
foreign students, young Romans and
out-of-towners move in. The octagonal
fountain is of Roman origin and was
restored by Carlo Fontana in 1692.
121
5 Chocolate at Bar San Calisto
Those in the know head to Bar San
Calisto (Piazza San Calisto 3-5; h6am-2am
Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di
Trastevere), a down-at-heel institution
popular with everyone from intel-
lectuals to keeping-it-real Romans,
alcoholics and American students. It’s
famous for its chocolate – hot with
cream in winter, with gelato in sum-
mer – and is known across Rome to
serve the cheapest beer in town.
6 Catch a Film at Nuovo Sacher
Join Rome’s passionate cinephiles at
the Nuovo Sacher (%06 581 81 16; www.
sacherfilm.eu; Largo Ascianghi 1; gViale di
Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere), a small
cinema owned by cult Roman director
Nanni Moretti. A well-known venue
for film-related events, it’s the perfect
place to catch the latest European art-
house offering, with films regularly
screened in their original language.
7 Blues at Big Mama
To wallow in the Eternal City blues,
there’s only one place to go – Big
Mama (%06 581 25 51; www.bigmama.it;
Vicolo di San Francesco a Ripa 18; h9pm-
1.30am, shows 10.30pm, closed Jun-Sep;
gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere),
a cramped Trastevere basement.
There are weekly residencies from
well-known Italian musicians, and fre-
quent blues, jazz, funk, soul and R&B
concerts by international artists.
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Altar of the Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere
Sights
Basilica di Santa Cecilia
in Trastevere BASILICA
1 1 Map p122, D4
The last resting place of the patron
saint of music features Pietro Caval-
lini’s stunning 13th-century fresco,
in the nuns’ choir of the hushed
convent adjoining the church. Inside
the church itself, Stefano Maderno’s
mysterious sculpture depicts St
Cecilia’s miraculously preserved body,
unearthed in the Catacombs of San
Callisto in 1599. You can also visit the
excavations of Roman houses, one of
which was possibly that of Cecilia.
(%06 589 9289; www.benedettinesanta
Sights 123
cecilia.it; Piazza di Santa Cecilia; fresco &
crypt each €2.50; hbasilica & crypt 10am-
1pm & 4-7pm, fresco 10am-12.30pm Mon-Sat;
gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere)
Galleria Corsini GALLERY
2 1 Map p122, A1
Once home to Queen Christina of Swe-
den, whose richly frescoed bedroom
witnessed a steady stream of male
and female lovers, the 16th-century
Palazzo Corsini was designed by Ferdi-
nando Fuga in grand Versailles style,
and houses part of Italy’s national art
collection. Highlights include Caravag-
gio’s mesmerising San Giovanni
Battista (St John the Baptist), Guido
Reni’s unnerving Salome con la Testa
124 Trastevere & Gianicolo
di San Giovanni Battista (Salome
with the Head of John the Baptist),
and Fra Angelico’s Corsini Triptych,
plus works by Rubens, Poussin and
Van Dyck. (Palazzo Corsini; %06 6880
2323; www.barberinicorsini.org; Via della Lun-
gara 10; adult/reduced €5/2.50, incl Palazzo
Barberini €10/5; h8.30am-7.30pm Wed-Mon;
gLungotevere della Farnesina)
Villa Farnesina HISTORIC BUILDING
3 1 Map p122, A1
The interior of this gorgeous 16th-
century villa is fantastically frescoed
from top to bottom. Several paintings
in the Loggia of Cupid and Psyche
and the Loggia of Galatea, both on
the ground floor, are attributed to
Raphael. On the 1st floor, Peruzzi’s
dazzling frescoes in the Salone delle
Prospettive are a superb illusionary
perspective of a colonnade and pano-
rama of 16th-century Rome. (%06
6802 7268; www.villafarnesina.it; Via della
Lungara 230; adult/reduced €6/5, guided tour
€4; h9am-2pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm 2nd Sun of
the month; gLungotevere della Farnesina)
Villa Doria Pamphilj MONUMENT, PARK
4 1 Map p122, A3
Lorded over by the 17th-century Villa
Doria Pamphilj is Rome’s largest
landscaped park – many a Roman’s
favourite place to escape the city
noise and bustle. Once a vast private
estate, it was laid out around 1650 for
Prince Camillo Pamphilj, nephew of
Pope Innocent X. It’s a huge expanse
of rolling parkland, shaded by Rome’s
distinctive umbrella pines. At its cen-
tre is the prince’s summer residence,
Casino del Belrespiro (used for official
government functions today), with its
manicured gardens and citrus trees.
(hsunrise-sunset; gVia di San Pancrazio)
Orto Botanico GARDENS
5 1 Map p122, A2
Formerly the private grounds of
Palazzo Corsini, Rome’s 12-hectare
botanical gardens are a little-known,
slightly neglected gem and a great
place to unwind in a tree-shaded ex-
panse covering the steep slopes of the
Gianicolo. Plants have been cultivated
here since the 13th century and the
current gardens were established in
1883, when the grounds of Palazzo
Corsini were given to the University of
Rome. They now contain up to 8000
species, including some of Europe’s
rarest plants. (Botanical Garden; %06
4991 7107; Largo Cristina di Svezia 24; adult/
reduced €8/4; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat Apr-
Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar; gLungotevere della
Farnesina, Piazza Trilussa)
Gianicolo Hill HILL
6 1 Map p122, A3
The verdant hill of Gianicolo is
dotted by monuments to Garibaldi
and his makeshift army, who fought
pope-backing French troops in one
of the fiercest battles in the struggle
for Italian unification on this spot
in 1849. The Italian hero is com-
memorated with a massive monu-
ment (gPasseggiata del Gianicolo) in

Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi, while
his Brazilian-born wife, Anita, has
her own equestrian monument
(gPasseggiata del Gianicolo) about 200m
away in Piazzale Anita Garibaldi; she
died from malaria, together with their
unborn child, shortly after the siege.
(Janiculum)
Eating
La Prosciutteria TUSCAN €
7 5 Map p122, B2
For a gratifying taste of Tuscany in
Rome, consider lunch or a decadent
aperitivo at this Florentine prosciut-
teria (salami shop). Made-to-measure
taglieri (wooden chopping boards)
come loaded with different cold cuts,
cheeses, fruit and veg and are best
devoured over a glass of Brunello di
Montalcino or simple Chianti Classico.
Bread comes in peppermint-green tin
saucepans and dozens of hams and sa-
lami dangle overhead. (%06 6456 2839;
www.laprosciutteria.com/roma-trastevere; Via
della Scala 71; chopping board €5 per person;
h11am-11.30pm; gPiazza Trilussa)
Da Enzo TRATTORIA €
8 5 Map p122, D3
Vintage buttermilk walls, red-checked
tablecloths and a traditional menu
featuring all the Roman classics: what
makes this staunchly traditional trat-
toria exceptional is its careful sourcing
of local, quality products, many from
nearby farms in Lazio. The seasonal,
Eating 125
deep-fried Jewish artichokes and the
pasta cacio e pepe (cheese-and-black-
pepper pasta) in particular are among
the best in Rome. (%06 581 22 60; www.
daenzoal29.com; Via dei Vascellari 29; meals
€30; h12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat; gViale
di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere)
Panattoni PIZZA €
9 5 Map p122, C3
Also called ‘ai Marmi’ or l’obitorio (the
morgue) because of its vintage
marble-slab tabletops, this is Traste-
vere’s most popular pizzeria. Think
super-thin pizzas, a clattering buzz,
testy waiters, a street terrace and some
fantastic fried starters – the supplì
(Roman rice ball), baccalà (salted cod)
and zucchini flowers are all heavenly.
(Ai Marmi; %06 580 09 19; Viale di Trastevere
53; pizzas €6.50-9; h6.30pm-1am Thu-Tue;
gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere)
Local Life
Fior di Luna
For many Romans busy little
Fior di Luna (Map p122, C3; %06
6456 1314; http://fiordiluna.com; Via
della Lungaretta 96; gelato from €1.70;
h11.30am-11.30pm Easter-Oct, to 9pm
Tue-Sun Nov-Easter; gViale di Trastevere,
jViale di Trastevere) makes the best
handmade gelato and sorbet in the
world. Produced in small batches
using natural, seasonal ingredients,
favourites include walnut and honey,
blueberry yoghurt, kiwi (complete
with seeds) and pistachio.
126 Trastevere & Gianicolo
Local Life
Grattachecca
It’s summertime, the living is easy,
and Romans like nothing better
in the sultry evening heat than to
amble down to the river and partake
of some grattachecca (crushed ice
covered in fruit and syrup). It’s the
ideal way to cool down and there
are kiosks along the riverbank
satisfying this very Roman need;
try Sora Mirella Caffè (Map p122,
D3; Lungotevere degli Anguillara; grat-
tachecca €3-6; h11am-3am May-Sep;
gLungotevere degli Anguillara), next to
Ponte Cestio.
Forno La Renella BAKERY €
10 5 Map p122, B2
Watch urban pizza masters at work
behind glass at this historic Trastevere
bakery, a fantastic space to hang out
in with its wood-fired ovens, bar-stool
seating and heavenly aromas of pizza
(€9 to €18 per kilo), bread and biscuits
baking throughout the day. Piled-high
toppings (and fillings) vary seasonally,
to the joy of everyone from punks with
big dogs to old ladies with little dogs.
It’s been in the biz since 1870. (%06 581
72 65; www.panificiolarenella.com; Via del Moro
15-16; pizza slices from €2.50; h7am-2am
Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun & Mon; gPiazza Trilussa)
Da Teo TRATTORIA €€
11 5 Map p122, D3
One of Rome’s classic trattoria, Da Teo
buzzes with locals digging into steam-
ing platefuls of Roman standards,
such as carbonara, pasta cacio e pepe
(cheese-and-black-pepper pasta) and
the most fabulous seasonal artichokes
out – both Jewish (deep-fried) and
Roman-style (stuffed with parsley and
garlic, and boiled). In keeping with
hardcore trattoria tradition, Teo’s
homemade gnocchi is only served
on Thursday. Reservations essential.
(%06 581 83 55; www.trattoriadateo.it;
Piazza dei Ponziani 7; meals €30; h12.30-
3pm & 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat; gViale di
Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere)
Drinking
Pimm’s Good BAR
12 6 Map p122, B2
‘Anyone for Pimm’s’ is the catchline
of this eternally popular bar with
part red-brick ceiling that does
indeed serve Pimm’s – the classic way
or in a variety of cocktails (€10). The
party-loving guys behind the bar are
serious mixologists and well-crafted
cocktails is their thing. Look for the
buzzing street-corner pavement ter-
race – lit up in winter with flaming
outdoor heaters. (%06 9727 7979; www.
facebook.com/pimmsgood; Via di Santa
Dorotea 8; h10am-2am; W; gPiazza
Trilussa)
Keyhole COCKTAIL BAR
13 6 Map p122, C3
The latest in a growing trend of ach-
ingly hip, underground speakeasies in
Rome, Keyhole ticks all the boxes: no
identifiable name or signage outside

ALEXANDER MAZURKEVICH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Alfresco dining in Trastevere
the bar; a black door smothered
in keys; and Prohibition-era decor
including leather Chesterfield sofas,
dim lighting and an electric craft
cocktail menu. Not sure what to
order? Ask the talented mixologists
to create your own bespoke cocktail
from around €10. (Via Arco di San Calisto
17; h10pm-2am; gViale di Trastevere,
jViale di Trastevere)
Rivendita Libri,
Cioccolata e Vino COCKTAIL BAR
14 6 Map p122, B2
There is no finer – or funnier – spot
in the whole of Rome for a swift
French Kiss, Orgasm or One Night
Stand than this highly inventive
Drinking 127
cocktail bar, packed every night from
around 10pm with a fun-loving, post-
dinner crowd. Cocktails are served in
miniature chocolate cups, filled with
various types of alcohol and topped
with whipped cream. (%06 5830 1868;
www.facebook.com/cioccolateriatrastevere;
Vicolo del Cinque 11a; shot €3-5; h7pm-
2am Mon-Fri, 2pm-2am Sat & Sun; gPiazza
Trilussa)
Il Baretto BAR
15 6 Map p122, A3
Venture a little way up the Gianicolo,
up a steep flight of steps from Traste-
vere – go on, it’s worth it. Because
there you’ll discover this good-looking
cocktail bar where the basslines
128 Trastevere & Gianicolo

Understand
Salute!

Aperitivo A Milanese trend from that Romans have taken up with gusto,
aperitivo is a pre-dinner drink accompanied by a buffet of snacks offered in
bars and some restaurants, usually from around 6pm till 9pm. Cost is around
€5 to €10 for a drink and unlimited platefuls. Many students and budget-
conscious Romans turn aperitivo into apericena (a replacement for dinner).
Enoteche The enoteca (wine bar) was where the old boys from the neigh-
bourhood used to drink rough local wine poured straight from the barrel.
Nowadays wine bars tend to be sophisticated but still atmospheric places,
offering Italian and international vintages, delicious cheeses and cold cuts.
Bars Rome’s bars range from regular Italian cafe-bars that have seemingly
remained the same for centuries, to chic, carefully styled places made for
esoteric cocktails and laid-back, perennially popular haunts – such as Freni e
Frizioni (p121) – that have a longevity rarely seen in other cities.

are meaty, the bar staff hip, and the

interior a mix of vintage and pop art.
(%06 589 60 55; www.ilbarettoroma.com;
Via Garibaldi 27; h7am-2am Mon-Sat; gVia
Garibaldi)
Bir & Fud CRAFT BEER
16 6 Map p122, B2
On a narrow street lined with raucous
drinking holes, this brick-vaulted bar-
pizzeria wins plaudits for its outstand-
ing collection of craft bir (beer), many
on tap, and equally tasty fud (food) for
when late-night munchies strike. Its
Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizzas are
particularly excellent. (%06 589 40 16;
www.birandfud.it; Via Benedetta 23; hnoon-
2am; gPiazza Trilussa)
Entertainment
Lettere Caffè LIVE MUSIC
17 3 Map p122, C4
Like books? Poetry? Blues and jazz?
Then you’ll love this place, a clutter
of bar stools and books, where there
are regular live gigs, poetry slams,
comedy and gay nights, plus DJ sets
playing electronic, indie and new
wave. Aperitivo, with a tempting
vegetarian buffet, is served between
7pm and 9pm. (%340 004 41 54; www.
letterecaffe.org; Vicolo di San Francesco a
Ripa 100-101; h6pm-2am, closed mid-Aug–
mid-Sep; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di
Trastevere)

Shopping
Biscottificio Innocenti FOOD
18 7 Map p122, D3
For homemade biscuits, bite-sized
meringues and tiny fruit tarts, there
is no finer address in Rome than this
vintage biscottificio with ceramic-
tiled interior, fly-net door curtain and
a set of old-fashioned scales on the
counter to weigh out biscuits (€16
to €24 per kilo). The shop has been
run with much love and passion for
several decades by the ever-dedicated
Stefania. (%06 580 39 26; www.facebook.
com/biscottificioInnocenti; Via delle Luce
21; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-2pm Sun;
gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere)
Antica Caciara
Trasteverina FOOD & DRINKS
19 7 Map p122, B4
The fresh ricotta is a prized posses-
sion at this century-old deli, and it’s
all usually snapped up by lunchtime.
If you’re too late, take solace in the to-
die-for ricotta infornata (oven-baked
ricotta), 35kg wheels of famous, black-
waxed pecorino romano DOP (€16.50
per kilo), and aromatic garlands of
guanciale (pig’s jowl) begging to be
chopped up, pan-fried and thrown
into the perfect carbonara. (%06
581 28 15; www.anticacaciara.it; Via San
Francesco a Ripa 140; h7am-2pm & 4-8pm
Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di
Trastevere)
Shopping 129
Benheart
FASHION & ACCESSORIES
20 7 Map p122, B2
From the colourful resin floor papered
with children’s drawings to the vintage
typewriter, dial-up telephone and old-
fashioned tools decorating the interior,
everything about this artisanal leather
boutique is achingly cool. Benheart,
a young Florentine designer, is one of
Italy’s savviest talents and his fashion-
able handmade shoes (from €190) and
jackets for men and women are glori-
ous. (%06 5832 0801; www.benheart.it; Via
del Moro 47; h11am-11pm; gPiazza Triussa)
Porta Portese Market MARKET
21 7 Map p122, C5
To see another side of Rome, head
to this mammoth flea market. With
thousands of stalls selling everything
from rare books and fell-off-a-lorry
bikes to Peruvian shawls and MP3
players, it’s crazily busy and a lot of
fun. Keep your valuables safe and
wear your haggling hat. (Piazza Porta
Portese; h6am-2pm Sun; gViale di Traste-
vere, jViale di Trastevere)
Almost Corner Bookshop BOOKS
22 7 Map p122, B2
This is how a bookshop should look:
a crammed haven full of rip-roaring
reads, with every millimetre of wall
space containing English-language
fiction and nonfiction (including
children’s) and travel guides. Heaven
to browse. (%06 583 69 42; Via del Moro
45; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun;
gPiazza Trilussa)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

130 Vatican City & Prati

Explore

Vatican City & Prati

The Vatican, the world’s smallest sovereign state, sits over the river
from the historic centre. Centred on St Peter’s Basilica, it boasts some
of Italy’s most revered artworks, many housed in the vast Vatican
Museums (home of the Sistine Chapel), as well as batteries of over-
priced restaurants and souvenir shops. Nearby, the landmark Castel
Sant’Angelo looms over the Borgo district and upscale Prati offers
excellent accommodation, eating and shopping.

The Sights in a Day
NIKADA/GETTY IMAGES ©
Beat the queues and get to the
M Vatican Museums (p132) at the
crack of dawn. These museums house
one of the world’s great art collections,
and while you’ll never manage to see
everything in one visit, you’ll want
to check out the Cortile Ottagono
(p133), home to some amazing clas-
sical sculpture, the vibrantly frescoed
Stanze di Rafaello (p135) and, of
course, the Sistine Chapel (p135).
Afterwards, reflect on what you’ve seen
over a light lunch at Il Sorpasso (p144).
After lunch, head to St Peter’s
R Square (p142; pictured left),
the dramatic gateway to St Peter’s
Basilica (p136), the Vatican’s imperi-
ous showcase church. Explore the
awe-inspiring marble-clad interior and
climb the dome before heading down
Via della Conciliazione to round off
the afternoon at the landmark Castel
Sant’Angelo (p142).
Come evening, treat yourself
N to some modern Roman
cuisine at Ristorante L’Arcangelo
(p144), before retiring to jazz mecca
Alexanderplatz (p145) to see out the
day with a concert.
Explore 131
o Top Sights
Vatican Museums (p132)
St Peter’s Basilica (p136)
x Best of Rome
History
St Peter’s Basilica (p136)
Food
Fa-Bìo (p143)
Fatamorgana (p144)
Architecture
St Peter’s Basilica (p136)
St Peter’s Square (p142)
Culture
Alexanderplatz (p145)
Getting There
J Bus From Termini, bus 40 is the
quickest to the Vatican. You can
also take the 64, which runs a simi-
lar route but stops more often. Bus
81 runs to Piazza del Risorgimento,
passing through San Giovanni and
the centro storico (historic centre).
m Metro Take metro line A to
Ottaviano-San Pietro. From the
station, signs direct you to St
Peter’s.
U Tram Number 19 serves Piazza
del Risorgimento by way of San
Lorenzo, Viale Regina Margherita
and Villa Borghese.
132 Vatican City & Prati

Top Sights
Vatican Museums
Visiting the Vatican Museums is a thrilling and 1 Map p140, C3
unforgettable experience. With some 7km of
%06 6988 4676
exhibitions and more masterpieces than many
small countries can call their own, this vast mu- www.museivaticani.va
seum complex boasts one of the world’s greatest
Viale Vaticano
art collections. Highlights include a spectacular
collection of classical statuary in the Museo adult/reduced €16/8, last Sun
Pio-Clementino, a suite of rooms frescoed by of month free
Raphael, and the Michelangelo-decorated Sistine
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-
Chapel.
2pm last Sun of month

mOttaviano-San Pietro

Sala Rotonda, Museo Pio-Clementino

 Vatican Museums 133

Pinacoteca
y Top Tips
Often overlooked by visitors, the papal picture ffThe museums are
gallery displays paintings dating from the 11th to free on the last Sunday
of the month.
19th centuries, with works by Fra Angelico,
Titian, Caravaggio and Leonardo da Vinci. ffExhibits are not well
labelled, so consider hir-
Museo Chiaramonti & Braccio Nuovo ing an audio guide (€7)
This museum is effectively the long corridor that or buying the Guide to
runs down the lower east side of the Palazzetto the Vatican Museums
di Belvedere. Near the end of the hall, off to the and City (€14).
right, is the Braccio Nuovo (New Wing), which
contains a celebrated statue of the Nile as a ffTo avoid queues book
reclining god covered by 16 babies. tickets online (http://
biglietteriamusei.vatican.
Museo Pio-Clementino va/musei/tickets/do;
To the left as you enter the Cortile Ottagono plus €4 booking fee).
(Octagonal Courtyard) is the Apollo Belvedere,
f
fTime your visit to
a 2nd-century Roman copy of a 4th-century-BC minimise waiting:
Greek bronze. A beautifully proportioned repre- Tuesdays, Thursdays and
sentation of the sun god Apollo, it’s considered Wednesday mornings are
VVOE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

one of the great masterpieces of classical sculp- quietest; afternoon is bet-

ture. Back inside, the Sala degli Animali is filled ter than morning; avoid
with sculpted creatures and some magnificent Mondays when many
4th-century mosaics. other museums are shut.

Galleria delle Carte Geografiche

One of the unsung heroes of the Vatican 5 Take a Break
Museums, the 120m-long Map Gallery is hung
There’s a self-service
with 40 huge topographical maps. These were
restaurant and cafe near
created between 1580 and 1583 for Pope Gregory
XIII based on drafts by Ignazio Danti, one of the the Pinacoteca, and a
leading cartographers of his day. bar on the stairs to the
Sistine Chapel.
Museo Gregoriano Egizio For a real bite to re-
Founded by Pope Gregory XVI in 1839, this member, leave the
Egyptian museum displays pieces taken from museums and head to
Egypt in ancient Roman times. The collection is Pizzarium (p143), one
small, but there are fascinating exhibits, including of Rome’s best pizza
a fragmented statue of the pharaoh Ramses II on al taglio (sliced pizza)
his throne, vividly painted sarcophagi dating from joints.
around 1000 BC, and a macabre mummy.
134 Vatican City & Prati

VVOE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Vatican Museums
Entrance
Hall Sala
delle
Sala Rotonda Muse Museo
Pio-Clementino
Cortile Ottagono
Pinacoteca Apollo Belvedere
Laocoön
Museo
Gregoriano Museo
Egizio Chiaramonti
Self-service
restaurant & bar Cortile
della Pigna

Museo
Gregoriano
Etrusco

Giudizio
Universale
Ceiling Frescoes
Bar

Sistine Lower Floor

Chapel
Galleria
delle Carte
Geografiche

Stanza della Stanza

Segnatura di Eliodoro
Stanza dell’Incendio
Sala Sobieski
La Scuola Sala di Costantino
di Atene Stanze di Raffaello
(Raphael Rooms)
Upper Floor

Frescoes by Raphael in the Stanza della Segnatura
Museo Gregoriano Etrusco
At the top of the 18th-century Simon-
etti staircase, this fascinating museum
contains artefacts unearthed in the
Etruscan tombs of northern Lazio, as
well as a superb collection of vases
and Roman antiquities.
Stanze di Raffaello
These four frescoed chambers, cur-
rently undergoing partial restoration,
were part of Pope Julius II’s private
apartments. Raphael himself painted
the Stanza della Segnatura (1508–11)
and the Stanza d’Eliodoro (1512–14),
while the Stanza dell’Incendio di
Borgo (1514–17) and Sala di Cos-
tantino (1517–24) were decorated by
students following his designs.
Vatican Museums 135
Sistine Chapel – The Ceiling
The Sistine Chapel provided the
greatest challenge of Michelangelo’s
career and painting the entire 800-sq-
m vaulted ceiling at a height of more
than 20m pushed him to the limits of
his genius. Pope Julius II persuaded
Michelangelo to accept the commis-
sion for a fee equivalent to between
€1.5 and €2 million in today’s money.
Sistine Chapel – Giudizio
Universale
Michelangelo’s second stint in the
Sistine Chapel, from 1535 to 1541,
resulted in the Giudizio Universale
(Last Judgment), his highly charged
depiction of Christ’s second coming
on the 200-sq-m western wall.
136 Vatican City & Prati

Top Sights
St Peter’s Basilica
In a city of outstanding churches, none can hold 1 Map p140, C4
a candle to St Peter’s, Italy’s largest, richest and
most spectacular basilica. A monument to centu- %06 6988 5518
ries of artistic genius, it boasts many spectacular www.vatican.va
works of art, including three of Italy’s most
celebrated masterpieces: Michelangelo’s Pietà, his St Peter’s Square
soaring dome, and Bernini’s 29m-high baldachin admission free
over the papal altar.
h7am-7pm summer, to
The Dome 6.30pm winter
From the dome (with/without lift €8/6; h8am-6pm
summer, to 5pm winter; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro

Statues of Jesus, John the Baptist and the apostles on the basilica’s upper attic
 St Peter’s Basilica 137

mOttaviano-San Pietro) entrance on the right of the

y Top Tips
basilica’s main portico, you can walk the 551 steps ffDress appropriately if
to the top or take a small lift halfway and then you want to get in – no
follow on foot for the last 320 steps. Either way, shorts, miniskirts or
bare shoulders.
it’s a long, steep climb. But make it to the top, and
you’re rewarded with stunning views from a perch ffBetween October
120m above St Peter’s Square. and late May, free
English-language tours
The Facade of the basilica are run
Built between 1608 and 1612, Maderno’s immense by seminarians from
facade is 48m high and 115m wide. Eight 27m-high the Pontifical North
columns support the upper attic on which 13 American College. These
statues stand representing Christ the Redeemer, St generally start at 2.15pm
John the Baptist and the 11 apostles. The central Monday through Friday,
balcony is known as the Loggia della Benedizione, leaving from the Ufficio
and it’s from here that the pope delivers his Urbi Pellegrini e Turisti.
et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter. ffQueues are inevitable
Running across the entablature is an inscrip- at the security checks
tion that translates as ‘In honour of the Prince of but they move quickly.
Apostles, Paul V Borghese, Roman, Pontiff, in the
VVOE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

year 1612, the seventh of his pontificate’. ffLines are generally

shorter during lunch
Interior – the Nave hours and late afternoon.
Dominating the centre of the basilica is Bernini’s
29m-high baldachin. Supported by four spiral 5 Take a Break
columns and made with bronze taken from the
Pantheon, it stands over the papal altar, also Avoid the tourist traps
known as the Altar of the Confession. In front, around the basilica and
Carlo Maderno’s Confessione stands over the site head to nearby Prati
where St Peter was originally buried. where you’ll find a wide
Above the baldachin, Michelangelo’s dome soars choice of eateries. For
to a height of 119m. Based on Brunelleschi’s design a salad or tasty panino
for the Duomo in Florence, it’s supported by four stop off at hit organic
massive stone piers, each named after the saint takeaway Fa-Bìo
whose statue adorns its Bernini-designed niche. (p143), while for some-
The saints are all associated with the basilica’s four thing more substantial,
major relics: the lance St Longinus used to pierce join the fashionable
Christ’s side; the cloth with which St Veronica neighbourhood diners
wiped Jesus’ face; a fragment of the Cross collected at Il Sorpasso (p144).
by St Helena; and the head of St Andrew.
138 Vatican City & Prati

At the base of the Pier of St Longi- is a fine relief by Alessandro Algardi.

nus is Arnolfo di Cambio’s much-loved
13th-century bronze statue of St
Peter, whose right foot has been worn
down by centuries of caresses.
Behind the altar, the tribune is
home to Bernini’s extraordinary
Cattedra di San Pietro. A vast gilded
bronze throne held aloft by four 5m-
high saints, it’s centred on a wooden
seat that was once thought to have
been St Peter’s but in fact dates to the
9th century.
Interior – Left Aisle
In the roped-off left transept, this
chapel takes its name from the Ma-
donna that stares out from Giacomo
della Porta’s marble altar. To its right,
above the tomb of St Leo the Great,
SVETLANASF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Under the next arch is Bernini’s last
work in the basilica, the monument to
Alexander VII.
Halfway down the left aisle, the Cap-
pella Clementina is named after Clem-
ent VIII, who had Giacomo della Porta
decorate it for the Jubilee of 1600. Be-
neath the altar is the tomb of St Gregory
the Great and, to the left, a monument
to Pope Pius VII by Thorvaldsen.
The next arch shelters Alessandro
Algardi’s 16th-century monument to
Leo XI. Beyond it, the richly decorated
Cappella del Coro was created by
Giovanni Battista Ricci to designs by
Giacomo della Porta.
Continuing on, the Cappella della
Presentazione contains two of the
cathedral’s most modern works: a

St Peter’s Basilica
Cattedra di
San Pietro

Vatican
Grottoes
Monument to
Alexander VII Baldachin
& Papal Altar
Museo Left Right
Storico Transept Transept
Artistico Entrance to
Vatican Grottoes Statue of
St Peter Capella Gregoriana

Cappella del
Capella del Coro Santissimo
Left Right Sacramento
Aisle Nave Aisle
Stuart Monuments
Pietà
Main Entrance Entrance to Dome
Grand Atrium
The Facade
St Peter's Square

Papal altar, featuring Bernini’s baldachin (p137)
black relief monument to John XXIII
by Emilio Greco, and a monument to
Benedict XV by Pietro Canonica.
Located under the next arch are the
Stuart Monuments; on the right is the
monument to Clementina Sobieska,
wife of James Stuart, by Filippo
Barigioni, and on the left is Canova’s
vaguely erotic monument to the last
three members of the Stuart clan, the
pretenders to the English throne who
died in exile in Rome.
Interior – Right Aisle
At the head of the right aisle is Michel-
angelo’s hauntingly beautiful Pietà.
Sculpted when he was only 25 (in
1499), it’s the only work the artist ever
St Peter’s Basilica 139
signed – his signature is etched into
the sash across the Madonna’s breast.
Carlo Fontana’s gilt and bronze
monument to Queen Christina com-
memorates the far-from-holy Swedish
monarch who converted to Catholi-
cism in 1655.
Moving on, you’ll come to the
home of Pope John Paul II’s tomb and
a sumptuously decorated baroque
chapel with works by Borromini,
Bernini and Pietro da Cortona.
Beyond the chapel, a grandiose
monument to Gregory XIII sits near
the roped-off Cappella Gregoriana,
a chapel built by Gregory XIII from
designs by Michelangelo.
 00
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140 Vatican City & Prati

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142 Vatican City & Prati
Top Tip
See the Pope
Papal audiences are held at 10am
on Wednesdays, usually in St Pe-
ter’s Square but sometimes in the
nearby Aula delle Udienze Pontificie
Paolo VI (Paul VI Audience Hall).
You’ll need to book free tickets in
advance. No tickets are required
for the pope’s Sunday blessing, at
noon in St Peter’s Square. See the
Vatican website (www.vatican.va/
various/prefettura/index_en.html)
for more details.
Sights
Castel Sant’Angelo MUSEUM, CASTLE
1 1 Map p140, F4
With its chunky round keep, this
castle is an instantly recognisable
landmark. Built as a mausoleum for
the emperor Hadrian, it was con-
verted into a papal fortress in the 6th
century and named after an angelic vi-
sion that Pope Gregory the Great had
in 590. Nowadays, it houses the Museo
Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo and
its eclectic collection of paintings,
sculpture, military memorabilia and
medieval firearms. (%06 681 91 11; www.
castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it; Lungotevere
Castello 50; adult/reduced €10/5; h9am-
7.30pm, ticket office to 6.30pm; gPiazza Pia)
St Peter’s Square PIAZZA
2 1 Map p140, D4
Overlooked by St Peter’s Basilica, the
Vatican’s central square was laid out
between 1656 and 1667 to a design
by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Seen from
above, it resembles a giant keyhole
with two semicircular colonnades,
each consisting of four rows of Doric
columns, encircling a giant ellipse that
straightens out to funnel believers into
the basilica. The effect was deliberate –
Bernini described the colonnades as
representing ‘the motherly arms of the
church’. (Piazza San Pietro; mOttaviano-San
Pietro)
Vatican Gardens GARDENS
3 1 Map p140
Up to a third of the Vatican is covered
by the perfectly manicured Vatican
Gardens, which contain fortifications,
grottoes, monuments, fountains, and
the state’s tiny heliport. Visits are by
two-hour guided tour only, for which
you’ll need to book at least a week
in advance. Note that after the tour
you’re free to visit the Vatican Muse-
ums on your own. (www.museivaticani.va;
adult/reduced incl Vatican Museums €32/24;
hby reservation only; gPiazza del Risorgi-
mento, mOttaviano-San Pietro)

ACHPF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Aerial view of the Vatican Gardens
Eating
Pizzarium PIZZA €
4 5 Map p140, A3
When a pizza joint is packed at lunch-
time on a wet winter’s day, you know
it’s something special. Pizzarium, the
takeaway of Gabriele Bonci, Rome’s
acclaimed pizza king, serves Rome’s
best sliced pizza, bar none. Scissor-
cut squares of soft, springy base are
topped with original combinations of
seasonal ingredients and served on pa-
per trays for immediate consumption.
Also worth trying are the freshly fried
supplì (crunchy rice croquettes). (%06
3974 5416; Via della Meloria 43; pizza slices
€5; h11am-10pm; mCipro-Musei Vaticani)
Eating 143
Fa-Bìo
SANDWICHES €
5 5 Map p140
Sandwiches, wraps, salads and fresh
juices are all prepared with speed,
skill and fresh organic ingredients at
this friendly takeaway. Locals, Vatican
tour guides and in-the-know visitors
come here to grab a quick lunchtime
bite and if you can find room in the
tiny interior, you’d do well to follow
suit. (%06 6452 5810; www.fa-bio.com; Via
Germanico 43; sandwiches €5; h10.30am-
5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; gPiazza del
Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro)
144 Vatican City & Prati
Fatamorgana GELATO €
6 5 Map p140
The Prati branch of hit gelateria
chain, Fatamorgana. As well as all the
classic flavours there are some won-
derfully left-field creations, including
a strange but delicious basilico, miele
e noci (basil, honey and hazelnuts).
(www.gelateriafatamorgana.it; Via Leone IV 52;
gelato €2.50-5; hnoon-11pm summer, to 9pm
winter; mOttaviano-San Pietro)
Il Sorpasso ITALIAN €€
7 5 Map p140, E3
A bar-restaurant hybrid sporting
a vintage cool look – vaulted stone
ceilings, exposed brick, rustic wooden
tables – Il Sorpasso is a Prati hotspot.
Open throughout the day, it caters to a
fashionable crowd, serving everything
from salads and pasta specials to
trappizini (pyramids of stuffed pizza),
cured meats and cocktails. (%06 8902
4554; www.sorpasso.info; Via Properzio 31-33;
meals €20-35; h7am-1am Mon-Fri, 9am-1am
Sat; gPiazza del Risorgimento)
Ristorante
L’Arcangelo RISTORANTE €€€
8 5 Map p140, G3
Styled as an informal bistro with
wood panelling, leather banquettes
and casual table settings, L’Arcangelo
enjoys a stellar local reputation.
Dishes are modern and creative yet
still undeniably Roman in their use of
traditional ingredients such as sweet-
breads and baccalà (cod). A further
plus is the wine list, which boasts
some interesting Italian labels. (%06
321 09 92; www.larcangelo.com; Via Guiseppe
G Belli 59; meals €50; h1-2.30pm Mon-Fri &
8-11pm Mon-Sat; gPiazza Cavour)
Drinking
Sciascia Caffè CAFE
9 6 Map p140, E2
There are several contenders for the
best coffee in town but in our opinion,
nothing tops the caffè eccellente served
at this polished old-school cafe. A
velvety smooth espresso served in a
delicate cup lined with melted choco-
late, it’s nothing short of magnificent.
(%06 321 15 80; Via Fabio Massimo 80/A;
h7am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun;
mOttaviano-San Pietro)
Be.re CRAFT BEER
10 6 Map p140
Rome’s craft-beer fans keenly applaud-
ed the opening of this contemporary
bar in late 2016. With its copper beer
taps, exposed brick decor and high
vaulted ceilings, it’s a good-looking
spot for an evening of Italian beers
and cask ales. And should hunger
strike, there’s a branch of hit takeaway
Trappizino right next door. (%06 9442
1854; www.be-re.eu; Piazza del Risorgimento,
cnr Via Vespasiano; h10am-2am; gPiazza
del Risorgimento)

Makasar Bistrot WINE BAR, TEAHOUSE
11 6 Map p140, E4
Recharge your batteries with a quiet
drink at this bookish bistrot. Pick your
tipple from the 250-variety tea menu
or opt for an Italian wine and sit back
in the softly lit earthenware-hued
interior. For something to eat, there’s
a small menu of salads, bruschetta,
baguettes and hot dishes. (%06 687 46
02; www.makasar.it; Via Plauto 33; hnoon-
midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 5pm-
midnight Sun; gPiazza del Risorgimento)
Entertainment
Alexanderplatz JAZZ
12 3 Map p140, C2
Intimate, underground, and hard to
find – look for the discreet black door –
Rome’s most celebrated jazz club draws
top Italian and international performers
and a respectful cosmopolitan crowd.
Book a table for the best stage views or
to dine here, although note that it’s the
music that’s the star act, not the food.
(%06 8377 5604; www.facebook.com/
alexander.platz.37; Via Ostia 9; h8.30pm-
1.30am; mOttaviano-San Pietro)
Fonclea LIVE MUSIC
13 3 Map p140, E3
Fonclea is a great little pub venue,
with nightly gigs by bands playing
everything from jazz and soul to pop,
rock and doo-wop. Get in the mood
with a drink during happy hour (6pm
Entertainment 145
to 8.30pm daily). In summer, the pub
ups sticks and moves to a site by the
Tiber. (%06 689 63 02; www.fonclea.it; Via
Crescenzio 82a; h6pm-2am Sep-May, con-
certs 9.30pm; gPiazza del Risorgimento)
Shopping
Rechicle VINTAGE
14 7 Map p140
Lovers of vintage fashions should
make a beeline for this fab boutique.
Furnished with antique family furni-
ture and restored cabinets, it’s full of
wonderful finds such as Roger Vivier
comma heels (with their original box),
iconic Chanel jackets, Hermès bags,
Balenciaga coats and much more
besides. (%06 3265 2469; Piazza dell’ Unità
21; h10.30am-2pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat;
gVia Cola di Rienzo)
Il Sellaio FASHION & ACCESSORIES
15 7 Map p140
During the 1960s Ferruccio Serafini
was one of Rome’s most sought-after
artisans, making handmade leather
shoes and bags for the likes of JFK,
Liz Taylor and Marlon Brando.
Nowadays, his daughter Francesca
runs the family shop where you can
pick up beautiful hand-stitched bags,
belts and accessories. You can also
have your own designs made to order.
(%06 321 17 19; www.serafinipelletteria.it;
Via Caio Mario 14; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri,
9.30am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm Sat; mOttaviano-
San Pietro)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

146 Worth a Trip

Top Sights
Villa Borghese
Getting There Locals, lovers, tourists, joggers – no one can resist
the lure of Rome’s most celebrated park. Origi-
J Take bus 53 or 910 nally the 17th-century estate of Cardinal Scipione
to Via Pinciana. Borghese, it covers about 80 hectares of wooded
glades, gardens and grassy banks. Among its attrac-
m From Spagna you
tions are several excellent museums, the landscaped
can walk up to Villa
Giardino del Lago, Piazza di Siena, a dusty arena
Borghese via a long
series of elevators used for Rome’s top equestrian event in May, and a
and underground panoramic terrace on the Pincio Hill.
passageways.

Museo e Galleria Borghese

 Villa Borghese 147

www.sovraintendenza
Museo e Galleria Borghese roma.it
If you only have the time (or inclination) for one
art gallery in Rome, make it the Museo e Gal- entrances at Piazzale San
Paolo del Brasile, Piazzale
leria Borghese (%06 3 28 10; www.galleriaborghese.
Flaminio, Via Pinciana, Via Rai-
it; Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5; adult/reduced €15/8.50;
mondo, Largo Pablo Picasso
h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; gVia Pinciana). Housing what’s
often referred to as the ‘queen of all private art hsunrise-sunset
collections’, it boasts paintings by Caravaggio,
Raphael, and Titian, as well as some sensational gVia Pinciana
sculptures by Bernini. Highlights abound, but
look out for Bernini’s Ratto di Proserpina (Rape y Top Tips
of Proserpina) and Canova’s Venere vincitrice ffAdmission to the
(Venus Victrix). Museo e Galleria
The museum’s collection was formed by Borghese is free on the
Cardinal Scipione Borghese (1579–1633), the most first Sunday of the month.
knowledgeable and ruthless art collector of his ffBike hire is available at
day. It was originally housed in the cardinal’s various points, including
residence near St Peter’s but in the 1620s he had Largo Pablo Picasso, for
it transferred to his new villa just outside Porta €5/15 per hour/day.
LUCIAN MILASAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pinciana. And it’s here, in the villa’s central build-

ing, the Casino Borghese, that you’ll see it today. 5 Take a Break
To limit numbers, visitors are admitted at two-
For a relaxing drink or
hourly intervals, so you’ll need to pre-book your
romantic meal, head to
ticket and get an entry time.
Caffè delle Arti (%06
Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia 3265 1236; www.caffedelle
artiroma.com; Via Gramsci
Pope Julius III’s 16th-century villa (%06 322 65 71;
73; meals €40-45; h8am-
www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it; Piazzale di Villa Giulia; adult/
5pm Mon, 8am-midnight Tue-
reduced €8/4; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun; jVia delle
Sun; jPiazza Thorvaldsen),
Belle Arti) provides the charming setting for Italy’s
located in La Galleria
finest collection of Etruscan and pre-Roman Nazionale.
treasures. Exhibits, many of which came from
tombs in the surrounding Lazio region, range Further away, the Oste-
from bronze figurines and black bucchero table- ria Flaminio (%06 323 69
00; www.osteriaflaminio.com;
ware to temple decorations, terracotta vases and
Via Flaminia 297; lunch buf-
dazzling jewellery.
fet €8-12; h12.30-3.30pm
Perhaps the museum’s most famous piece is the
& 7.30pm-midnight; jVia
6th-century BC Sarcofago degli Sposi (Sarcopha-
Flaminia) is popular for
gus of the Betrothed). This astonishing work,
its bargain buffet lunch.
148 Worth a Trip
originally unearthed in a tomb in
Cerveteri, depicts a husband and wife
reclining on a stone banqueting couch.
And although called a sarcophagus, it
was actually designed as an elaborate
urn for the couple’s ashes.
Museo Carlo Bilotti
The Orangery of Villa Borghese pro-
vides the handsome setting for the art
collection (%06 06 08; www.museocarlo
bilotti.it; Viale Fiorello La Guardia; admission
free; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat &
Sun winter, 1-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat &
Sun summer; gVia Pinciana) of billionaire
cosmetics magnate Carlo Bilotti. The
main focus are 18 works by Giorgio
de Chirico (1888–1978), one of Italy’s
foremost modern artists, but also of
note is a Warhol portrait of Bilotti’s
wife and daughter.
Giardino del Lago
Designed and laid out in the late 18th
century, this leafy area is centred on
a small, romantic lake (Villa Borghese;
boat hire per 20min €3; h7am-9pm summer,
to 6pm winter; gVia Pinciana). The high-
light, other than the serene atmos-
phere, is the Tempietto di Esculapio, a
copy of a Roman temple sited on the
lake’s artificial islet.
Nearby: La Galleria Nazionale
Housed in a vast belle-époque palace,
this oft-overlooked modern art gallery
(%06 3229 8221; http://lagallerianazionale.
com; Viale delle Belle Arti 131, accessible
entrance Via Antonio Gramsci 71; adult/
reduced €10/5; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun;
jPiazza Thorvaldsen), known locally as
GNAM, is an unsung gem. Its superla-
tive collection runs the gamut from
neoclassical sculpture to abstract
expressionism with works by many of
the most important exponents of 19th-
and 20th-century art.
Nearby: Museo Nazionale delle
Arti del XXI Secolo
As much as the exhibitions, the high-
light of Rome’s leading contemporary
art gallery (MAXXI; %06 320 19 54; www.
fondazionemaxxi.it; Via Guido Reni 4a; adult/
reduced €12/8, permanent collection free
Tue-Fri & 1st Sun of month; h11am-7pm
Tue-Fri & Sun, to 10pm Sat; jViale Tiziano)
is the Zaha Hadid–designed building
it occupies. Formerly a barracks, the
curved concrete structure is striking
inside and out with a multilayered
geometric facade and a cavernous
light-filled interior full of snaking
walkways and suspended staircases.
The gallery has a permanent collec-
tion of 20th- and 21st-century works,
but more interesting are its inter­
national exhibitions.
Nearby: Auditorium Parco della
Musica
The hub of Rome’s thriving cultural
scene, the Auditorium (%06 8024
1281; www.auditorium.com; Viale Pietro de
Coubertin; jViale Tiziano) is the capital’s
premier concert venue. Its three
concert halls and 3000-seat open-air
arena stage everything from classical
music concerts to jazz gigs, public
lectures and film screenings.
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
 151

The Best of
Rome
Rome’s Best Walks
Emperor’s Footsteps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Piazzas of Rome. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154

Rome’s Best...
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156
Food. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158
For Free . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160
Bars & Nightlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Architecture. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Art & Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
For Kids. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
LGBTIQ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172

Galleria delle Carte Geografiche (p133), Vatican Museums

BRIAN KINNEY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
 152

1 Colosseum
More than any other
Best Walks monument, it’s the
Emperor’s Colosseum (p24) that
symbolises the power
Footsteps and glory of ancient
Rome. A spectacular
2 The Walk feat of engineering, the
Follow in the footsteps of Rome’s legendary em- 50,000-seat stadium
perors on this walk around the best of the city’s was inaugurated by
ancient treasures. Established in 27 BC, the Roman Emperor Titus in AD80
Empire grew to become the Western world’s first with a bloodthirsty bout
dominant superpower and at the peak of its power,
of games that lasted 100
in about AD 100, it extended from Britain to north
days and nights.
Africa, and from Syria to Spain. Rome had a popu-
lation of more than 1.5 million and all of the trap-
pings of imperial splendour: marble temples, public 2 Palatino
baths, theatres, shopping centres and, of course, A short walk from the
the Colosseum. Colosseum, the Pala-
tino (p31) was ancient
Start Colosseum; m Colosseo
Rome’s most sought-
Finish Vittoriano; J Piazza Venezia after neighbourhood,
site of the emperor’s
Length 2km; at least three hours
palace and home to the
cream of imperial soci-
5 Take a Break ety. The evocative ruins
Hidden away in the Capitoline Museums but acces- are confusing but their 0
sible by its own entrance, the Terrazza Caffarelli grandeur gives some 0
0
0
(p34) is a refined spot for a restorative coffee. sense of the luxury in
which the ancient VIPs
liked to live. 0
0
0
0
0
0
3 Roman Forum
Coming down from the
Palatino you’ll enter 0
0
0
0
the Roman Forum (p26) 0
BELT944/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

near the Arco di Tito,

one of Rome’s great 0
0
0
triumphal arches. In im- 0
perial times, the Forum
was the empire’s nerve
centre, a teeming hive
Vittoriano (p33)
 Emperor’s Footsteps 153
of law courts, temples, Rome was founded. In that includes an iconic
piazzas and shops. The ancient times this was Etruscan bronze, the
vestal virgins lived here the spiritual heart of Lupa Capitolina, of
and senators debated the city, home to two of a wolf standing over
matters of state in the the city’s most impor- Romulus and Remus.
Curia (p27). tant temples.
6 Vittoriano
4 Piazza del 5 Capitoline From the Campidoglio,
Campidoglio Museums pop next door to the
Exit the Forum onto Flanking Piazza del massive mountain of
Via dei Fori Imperiali Campidoglio are two white marble that is
and head up to the stately palazzi (man- the Vittoriano (p33). No
Michelangelo-designed sions) that together emperor ever walked
Piazza del Campidoglio house the Capitoline here, but it’s worth
(p32). This striking Museums (p32). These, stopping off to take the
piazza, one of Rome’s the world’s oldest public panoramic lift to the
most beautiful, sits museums, boast an im- top, from where you can
atop the Campidoglio portant picture gallery see the whole of Rome
(Capitoline hill), one of and a superb collection laid out beneath you.
the seven hills on which of classical sculpture

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 154

1 Largo di Torre
Argentina
Best Walks Start off in Largo di

Piazzas of Rome Torre Argentina, set

around the ruins of four
Republic-era temples.
On the piazza’s western
2 The Walk flank, the Teatro
Rome’s tightly packed historic centre boasts some Argentina (p51), Rome’s
of the city’s most celebrated piazzas, and several premier theatre, sits near
beautiful but lesser known squares. Each has its the site where Julius
own character – the baroque splendour of Piazza Caesar was assassinated.
Navona, the bawdy clamour of Campo de’ Fiori, the
Renaissance elegance of Piazza Farnese – but to- 2 Piazza della
gether they encapsulate much of the city’s beauty, Minerva
history and drama. Take this tour to discover the Head along Via dei
best of them and enjoy the area’s vibrant street life. Cestari until you come
Start Largo di Torre Argentina; J Largo di Torre to Piazza della Minerva
Argentina and the Elefantino, a
sculpture of a puz-
Finish Piazza Farnese; J Corso Vittorio Emanuele II zled elephant carrying
Length 1.5km; three hours an Egyptian obelisk.
Flanking the square, the
Gothic Basilica di Santa
5 Take a Break
Maria Sopra Minerva
Between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, Caffè (p45) boasts Renaissance
Sant’Eustachio (p49) is a good bet for a quick pit frescoes and a minor
stop. Its coffee is reckoned by many to be the best 0
Michelangelo. 0
in Rome. 0
0
0
3 Piazza di
Sant’Ignazio Loyola 0
0
0
Strike off down Via 0
0
0
0
Santa Caterina da 0
Siena, then take Via
del Pièdi Marmo and
Via di Sant’Ignazio to
TROTALO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

reach the exquisite

18th-century Piazza di
Sant’Ignazio Loy-
ola. Overlooking the
piazza, the Chiesa di
Sant’Ignazio di Loyola
Piazza Navona (p44)
 Piazzas of Rome 155
features a magical Navona (p44), central on Campo de’ Fiori
trompe l’oeil ceiling Rome’s great showpiece (p51). By day, this noisy
fresco. square. Here, among the square stages a colour-
street artists, tourists ful market, at night
4 Piazza della and pigeons, you can it transforms into a
Rotonda compare the two giants raucous open-air pub.
A short stroll down Via of Roman baroque –
del Seminario brings you Gian Lorenzo Bernini, 7 Piazza Farnese
to the bustling Piazza creator of the Fontana Just beyond the Campo,
della Rotonda, where dei Quattro Fiumi, and Piazza Farnese is a re-
the Pantheon (p38) Francesco Borromini, fined square overlooked
needs no introduction. author of the Chiesa di by the Renaissance
Rome’s best-preserved Sant’Agnese in Agone. Palazzo Farnese (p46).
ancient building is one This magnificent
of the city’s iconic sights 6 Campo de’ Fiori palazzo (mansion), now
with its epic portico and On the other side home to the French
dome. of Corso Vittorio embassy, boasts some
Emanuele II, the busy superb frescoes, said by
5 Piazza Navona road that bisects the some to rival those of
From the Pantheon, fol- centro storico (historic the Sistine Chapel.
low the signs to Piazza centre), life is focused
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156 Best History

Best
History
For thousands of years Rome was at the centre
of world events. First, as caput mundi (capital of

AROGANT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
the world), the glittering hub of the vast Roman
Empire, and then as the seat of papal power. It
was a city that counted – and this is writ large on
its historic streets, where every palazzo, church
and ancient ruin has a tale to tell.

Ancient Glories Best Roman Relics

Many of Rome’s most thrilling monuments hark Colosseum Rome’s
back to its golden age as capital of the mighty iconic arena embodies all
Roman Empire. The Colosseum, the Pantheon, the the drama of the ancient
Roman Forum – these epic ruins all tell of past city. (p24)
glories in a way that no textbook ever can, evoking
Pantheon This awe-
images of teeming crowds and gladiatorial combat, inspiring building has
pagan ceremonies and daily drama. served as an architec-
tural blueprint for millen-
The Church Rules
niums. (p38)
For much of its history, the Church called the shots
in Rome and many of the city’s top sights are reli- Roman Forum The
inspiring ruins of ancient
gious in origin. Early basilicas stand testament to
Rome’s bustling city
the tenacity of the Church’s founding fathers, while
centre. (p26)
the masterpieces that litter the city’s churches tes-
tify to the wealth and ambition of the Renaissance Palatino Ancient emper-
and baroque popes. ors languished in luxury
on the Palatino, imperial
Multilayered History Rome’s oldest and most
One of Rome’s characteristic features is the way exclusive neighbourhood.
that history quite literally rises from the ground. (p31)
Over the centuries the city has undergone several Terme di Caracalla The
transformations and with each one a new layer towering remains of this
was added to the city’s urban fabric. As a result, ancient leisure centre
medieval churches stand over pagan temples are among Rome’s most
and baroque piazzas sit atop Roman arenas. In impressive. (p111)
Rome, to travel back in time you merely have to go
underground.
 Best History 157

Best Underground Basilica di San Giovanni Trevi Fountain Throw a

History
Basilica di San
Clemente This medieval
basilica sits over a pagan
temple and 1st-century
house. (p101)
Catacombs The Via
Appia Antica (Appian
Way) is riddled with
catacombs where the
early Christians buried
their dead. (p93)
Case Romane Head un-
derground to explore the
houses where apostles
John and Paul suppos-
edly lived. (p102)
Best Historical
Churches
St Peter’s Basilica The
Vatican’s monumental
showpiece church stands
over St Peter’s tomb.
(p136)
in Laterano The main coin in and you’ll return
papal basilica until the to Rome. (p68)
14th century. (p98)
Teatro Argentina
Basilica di San Paolo Rome’s top theatre
Fuori le Mura Monu- overlooks the site where
mental basilica on the Julius Caesar was
site where St Paul was assassinated. (p51)
buried. (p107)
Basilica di Santa Maria
Chiesa del Gesù Impor- del Popolo Was sup-
tant Jesuit church, home posedly built to exorcise
to Ignatius Loyola for 12 Nero’s malicious spirit,
years. (p44) which haunted the area.
(p59)
Best for Legends
Palatino Where the
wolf saved Romulus and
Remus, and Rome was
founded in 753 BC. (p31)
Bocca della Verità Tell
a lie and the ‘Mouth of
Truth’ will bite your hand
off. (p33)
Basilica di San Pietro
in Vincoli Houses the
miraculous chains that
bound St Peter. (p86)

Worth a Trip
Rome’s answer to Pompeii, the Scavi Archeologici di Ostia Antica
(%06 5635 0215; www.ostiaantica.beniculturali.it; Viale dei Romagnoli 717; adult/reduced
€8/4, free 1st Sun of month, exhibitions €3; h8.30am-6.15pm Tue-Sun summer, shorter
hours winter) offer a well-preserved insight into ancient Rome’s once-thriving
port. Highlights include the Terme di Nettuno and the impressive amphithea-
tre. To get there, take the suburban train to Ostia Antica from Stazione Porta
San Paolo next to Piramide metro station.
158 Best Food

Best
Food

SUSAN WRIGHT/LONELY PLANET ©

Food is central to the Roman passion for life.
Everyone has an opinion on it and the city teems
with trattorias, pizzerias, fine-dining restau-
rants and gourmet gelaterie. Traditional Roman
cooking holds sway but cucina creativa (creative
cooking) has taken off in recent years and there
are plenty of exciting, contemporary restaurants
to try.
y Top Tips
The Traditional Trattoria
ffIn a trattoria or
The bedrock of the Roman food scene has always restaurant, you’ll
been the family-run trattorias that pepper the be given bread
city’s streets and piazzas. These simple eater- and charged for it
ies, often with rickety wooden tables and nonna whether you eat it or
(grandma) at the stove, have been feeding visitors not. This is standard
for centuries and are still the best bet for hearty, practice, not a tourist
no-nonsense Roman dishes such as bucatini rip-off.
all’amatriciana (thick spaghetti with tomato sauce
ffFor water, ask for
and guanciale – cured pig’s cheek) or spaghetti
acqua naturale (still)
alla gricia (with pancetta and pecorino – sheep’s or acqua frizzante
milk cheese). (sparkling).
Contemporary Fine Dining ffRound the bill up in
Over recent decades Rome’s restaurant scene has a pizzeria or trattoria
become increasingly sophisticated with new-wave in lieu of a tip; leave
trattorias and chic designer restaurants offering up to 10% in a more
edgy, innovative food. Leading the way, Cristina upmarket restaurant.
Bowerman of Romeo e Giulietta and Giuseppe Di
Iorio of Aroma have made their names with their
modern, creative approach to Italian cuisine.

Street Food snacks such as supplì

The latest foodie fad to hit Rome is a passion for (fried rice balls with
street food. Alongside the many pizza al taglio various fillings) and
(sliced pizza) joints and gelaterie, a host of hip new fritti (fried foods) with
places have opened across town serving classic a modern twist.
 Best Food 159
CHRISTINE WEHRMEIER/GETTY IMAGES ©

Italian cuisine

Best Fine Dining Armando al Pantheon Fa-Bìo Popular organic

Antonello Colonna Open Family-run trattoria offer- takeaway near the
Chef Antonello Colonna’s ing hearty Roman cuisine Vatican. (p143)
glass-roofed restaurant in the shadow of the
Mordi e Vai Classic
offers creative takes on Pantheon. (p48)
Roman street food at
Roman classics. (p87) Da Enzo Hugely popu- this acclaimed Testaccio
Aroma Beautiful set- lar Trastevere address, food stall. (p113)
ting, and chef Giuseppe known for quality sourced
Pasta Chef Fast pasta at
Di Iorio bedazzles with ingredients. (p125)
a trendy ‘gourmet street
forward-thinking Mediter- Da Augusto Dreamy food’ address in Monti.
ranean cuisine. (p103) summertime dining and (p88)
Imàgo Haute cuisine and fabulous mamma-style
haute views from the cooking on one of Traste- Best Gelato
rooftop restaurant of the vere’s prettiest piazzas.
Fatamorgana Rome’s
five-star Hassler Hotel. (p121)
finest artisanal flavours,
(p61) now in multiple central
Best Fast Food
locations. (p144)
Best Traditional Trapizzino Home of
Roman the trapizzino, a cone Gelateria del Teatro
of doughy bread with Around 40 choices of
Flavio al Velavevodetto delicious ice cream, all
fillers like polpette al sugo
Classic cucina romana, made on site. (p48)
(meatballs in tomato
served in huge portions.
sauce). (p113) Fior di Luna Great
(p113)
Mercato Centrale The artisan ice cream in
Da Felice In the heart-
hot spot at Rome’s Trastevere. (p125)
land of Roman cuisine,
central train station for
and sticking to a tradi-
gourmet food fast. (p88)
tional weekly timetable.
(p113)
160 Best For Free

Best
For Free
Rome is an expensive city, but you don’t have to

EMPERORCOSAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
break the bank to enjoy it. A surprising number of
its big sights are free and it costs nothing to stroll
the historic streets, piazzas and parks, basking in
their extraordinary beauty.

Best Places for create a carnival atmos-

Free Art phere on this stunning
St Peter’s Basilica Mi-
baroque piazza. (p44) y Top Tips
chelangelo’s Pieta is just Campo de’ Fiori Revel in
ffAll state-run mu-
one of the masterpieces the chaos of the Cam-
seums and sites are
on display. (p136) po’s daily market. (p51)
free on the first Sun-
Basilica di San Pietro Piazza di Spagna day of the month.
in Vincoli Feast your People watch and mingle
eyes on Michelangelo’s with other travellers in ffSave a few euros
fearsome Moses. (p86) this iconic piazza. (p56) by filling up with
water from drinking
Chiesa di San Luigi dei Villa Borghese Rome’s
fountains known as
Francesi Caravaggio’s St central park is ideal for
nasoni (big noses)
Matthew cycle is the big leisurely strolling and
dotted around the
drawcard here. (p45) picnics. (p147)
streets.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Gianicolo Admire mag-
della Vittoria Features nificent views from this
leafy hill. (p124) Bocca della Verità Test
Bernini’s astonishing
the legend – tell a lie with
Ecstasy of St Teresa, a
your hand in the mouth.
seminal baroque work. Best Free (p33; pictured above)
(p73) Monuments
Spanish Steps Grab a
Vatican Museums Free Pantheon It doesn’t cost perch and hang out on
on the last Sunday of the a penny to enter this Rome’s most celebrated
month. (p132) extraordinary church. staircase. (p56)
(p38)
Best Piazzas & Trevi Fountain Free, un-
Parks less you thrown in a coin
Piazza Navona A colour- to ensure your return to
ful cast of street artists Rome. (p68)
 Best Bars & Nightlife 161

Best
Bars & Nightlife
Often the best way to enjoy nightlife in Rome is
to wander from restaurant to bar, getting happily

NICK_NICK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
lost down picturesque cobbled streets. There’s
simply no city with better backdrops for a drink:
you can savour a Campari overlooking the Ro-
man Forum or sample some artisanal beer while
watching the light bounce off baroque fountains.

Best Areas and ‘meet the producer’

Centro Storico Bars
and a few clubs, a mix
of touristy and sophisti-
cated. (p49)
Trastevere Everyone’s
favourite place for a
passeggiata (evening
stroll), with plenty of bars
and cafes. (p126)
Testaccio With a cluster
of mainstream clubs,
this nightlife strip offers
poptastic choice. (p114)
Ostiense Home to
Rome’s cooler nightclubs,
housed in ex-industrial
venues. (p106)
San Lorenzo & Pigneto
Favoured by students,
with a concentration
of bars and alternative
clubs. (p78)
Best Wine Bars
Il Sorì Gourmet wine
bar and artisan bottegha
(shop) with wine tastings
soirées. (p79) y Top Tip
Bibenda Wine Concept ffRomans tend to
Modern wine bar with a dress up to go out,
good choice of regional particularly in the
Italian labels. (p104) smarter clubs and
Ai Tre Scalini Buzzing bars in the centro
enoteca that feels as con- storico and Testac-
vivial as a pub. (p87) cio. However, over
in Pigneto and San
Best Aperitivo Lorenzo the style is
much more
Freni e Frizioni Pereni- alternative.
ally cool bar with lavish
nightly buffet of snacks.
(p121) Best Clubs
Doppiozeroo Popular Circolo Illuminati Wildly
Ostiense address with popular Ostiense club
impressive buffet choice. on the international
(p107) DJ club circuit, with an
Pimm’s Good Pimms underground vibe and
cocktails, generous star-topped courtyard.
complimentary nibbles (p107)
and party-loving bar staff Vinile Food, music, danc-
in Trastevere. (p126) ing and party happenings
Zuma Bar When the on the southern fringe of
urge for a posh cocktail Ostiense. (p107)
on a designer rooftop
beckons. (p63)
162 Best Architecture

Best
Architecture
Boasting ancient ruins, Renaissance basilicas,
baroque churches and hulking fascist palazzi,

4KCLIPS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Rome’s architectural legacy is unparalleled. Mi-
chelangelo, Bramante, Borromini and Berniniare
among the architects who have stamped their
genius on its remarkable city scape, while in re-
cent times a number of the world’s top architects
have completed projects in the city.
Best Ancient
Ancient Engineering Monuments
In building the caput mundi (capital of the world), Colosseum A blueprint
ancient Rome’s architects and engineers were for modern stadiums,
Rome’s gladiatorial arena
called on to design houses, roads, aqueducts and
dramatically illustrates
shopping centres alongside temples, tombs and
the use of the arch. (p24)
imperial palaces. To do so they advanced methods
devised by the Etruscans and Greeks and devel- Pantheon The ancient
oped construction techniques that allowed them to Romans’ greatest archi-
build on a hitherto unseen scale. tectural achievement
was revolutionary in both
Renaissance & Baroque Makeovers design and execution.
(p38)
Many of Rome’s great palazzi and basilicas date to
the Renaissance 16th century, including St Peter’s Terme di Caracalla
Basilica, which was given a complete overhaul by These looming ruins hint
Bramante, Michelangelo et al. A century later, the at the sophistication of
Counter-Reformation paved the way for a Church- ancient building tech-
sponsored makeover led by the baroque heroes niques. (p111)
Gian Lorenzo Bernini and Francesco Borromini. Mercati di Traiano
Museo dei Fori Imperi-
Modern Architecture ali A towering model of
In the early 20th century, Italy’s Fascist dictator 2nd-century civic engi-
Benito Mussolini oversaw a number of grandiose neering. (p32)
building projects, including Via dei Fori Imperiali
and the EUR district. More recently, projects have Best Early Basilicas
been completed by a roll-call of top international Basilica di San Gio-
‘starchitects’ including Renzo Piano, Massimiliano vanni in Laterano Its
Fuksas, Richard Meier and Zaha Hadid. original design set the

TTSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
style for basilicas to fol-
low. (p98)
Basilica di Santa Maria
Maggiore The only one
of Rome’s four patriar-
chal basilicas to retain its
original layout. (p85)
Basilica di Santa Sa-
bina This medieval gem
sports an austere, no-
frills basilica look. (p112)
Basilica di Santa Maria
in Trastevere Ancient
Roman columns and glit-
tering mosaics feature in
this Trastevere highlight.
(p118)
Best Renaissance
Buildings
St Peter’s Basilica An
amalgamation of designs,
Best Architecture 163
St Peter’s Basilica (p136), Vatican City
styles and plans, capped
by Michelangelo’s ex-
traordinary dome. (p136)
Palazzo Farnese Home
to the French embassy,
this is a fine example of
a Renaissance palace.
(p46)
Piazza del Campidoglio
Michelangelo’s hilltop
piazza is a show-stopping
model of Renaissance
town planning. (p32)
Best Baroque Gems
St Peter’s Square
Bernini designed the
Vatican’s focal square to
funnel believers into St
Peter’s Basilica. (p142)
Piazza Navona With a
Borromini church and
a Bernini fountain, this
square is a model of
baroque beauty. (p44)
Best Modern Icons
Auditorium Parco della
Musica Renzo Piano’s
avant-garde concert
complex features a
unique architectural
design. (p148)
Museo dell’Ara Pacis
Controversially designed
by Richard Meier, this
white pavilion houses an
important 1st-century-
BC altar. (p60; pictured
above left)
Museo Nazionale delle
Arti del XXI Secolo
Zaha Hadid’s converted
barracks houses Rome’s
top contemporary art
museum. (p148)
164 Best Art & Museums

Best
Art & Museums
Home to some of the Western world’s greatest
art, Rome is a visual feast. Its churches contain

VALERIOMEI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
more masterpieces than many small countries
and its museums and galleries are laden with
instantly recognisable works. From classical
statues and stunning Renaissance frescoes to
breathtaking baroque sculptures and futuristic
paintings, the art on show spans almost 3000
years of artistic endeavour.
y Top Tips
Classical Art ffMost museums
Not surprisingly, Rome’s collection of ancient art – are closed on
largely comprising sculpture, commemorative Mondays.
reliefs, and mosaics – is unparalleled. The Vatican
ffEU citizens under
Museums and Capitoline Museums showcase much 18 years often qualify
of the city’s finest classical sculpture, but you’ll for free admission.
also find superlative pieces in Palazzo Altemps and Take ID as proof of
Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. age.
The Renaissance ffMany museums
The Renaissance unleashed an artistic maelstrom close their ticket
in Rome as powerful Church patrons commissioned offices up to 75 min-
artists such as Michelangelo and Raphael to deco- utes before closing
rate the city’s basilicas and palaces. Fresco painting time.
was a key endeavour and many celebrated frescoes
date to this period, including Michelangelo’s Sistine Modern Art
Chapel designs (in the Vatican Museums).
The 20th century
The Baroque saw the emergence of
The baroque burst onto Rome’s art scene in the futurism, a nationalistic
early 17th century and was enthusiastically adopt- modernist movement,
ed by the Church as a propaganda tool in its battle and metaphysical
against Reformation heresy. Works by the period’s painting, an Italian
two leading artists – Gian Lorenzo Bernini and form of surrealism best
controversial painter Caravaggio – adorn churches expressed in the works
and museums across the city. of Giorgio de Chirico.
 Best Art & Museums 165

Best Museums & Giudizio universale (Last Best Little-Known

Galleries Judgment) and ceiling Gems
frescoes. (p135)
Vatican Museums Museo Nazionale
The Sistine Chapel and Pietà A work of sculp- Etrusco di Villa Giulia
Raphael Rooms head- tural genius and a Italy’s premier Etruscan
line at this spectacular highlight of St Peter’s museum. (p147)
museum complex. (p132) Basilica. (p139) Castel Sant’Angelo Ad-
Museo e Galleria La Scuola di Atene The mire lavish Renaissance
Borghese Houses greatest of Raphael’s interiors in this brooding,
Rome’s best baroque frescoes in the Vatican landmark castle. (p142)
sculpture and some Museums’ Stanze di Mercati di Traiano
superlative Old Masters. Raffaello. (p132)
(p147) Museo dei Fori Impe-
Santa Teresa trafitta riali A museum set in
Capitoline Museums Trajan’s towering 2nd-
dall’amore di Dio The
Ancient sculpture is the century shopping mall.
Chiesa di Santa Maria
main draw at the world’s
della Vittoria is home to (p32)
oldest public museums.
this Bernini sculpture, Centrale Montemartini
(p32)
one of the masterpieces A former power station
Museo Nazionale of European baroque art. juxtaposes ancient
Romano: Palazzo (p73; pictured left) sculpture with industrial
Massimo alle Terme An
Ratto di Proserpina An- machinery. (p107)
overlooked gem boasting
fabulous Roman sculp- other Bernini sculpture,
ture and mosaics. (p82) this one depicting Pluto Best Modern Art
abducting Proserpina, La Galleria Nazionale
Museo Nazionale Ro-
mano: Palazzo Altemps at the Museo e Galleria Study works by the
Blazing baroque frescoes Borghese. (p147) giants of modern Euro-
provide the background Ragazzo col canestro di pean art. (p148)
for classical sculpture. frutta Admire Caravag- Museo Nazionale delle
(p44) gio’s technical mastery Arti del XXI Secolo
Galleria Doria Pamphilj and fearless bravado Rome’s premier contem-
A lavish gallery full of in the Museo e Galleria porary arts museum.
major works by big-name Borghese. (p147) (p148)
artists. (p44) Trionfo della divina Museo Carlo Bilotti
provvidenza Head Boasts a collection of
Best Masterpieces Palazzo Barberini for metaphysical paintings
Sistine Chapel Home to Pietro da Cortona’s spec- by Giorgio de Chirico.
Michelangelo’s celebrated tacular fresco. (p72) (p148)
166 Best Shopping

Best
Shopping
Rome enthralls with a fabulous portfolio of de-
partment stores, specialist shops, independent

WJAREK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
boutiques and artisan workshops – guaranteed
to please the most hedonist of shoppers. ‘Retro’
is among the Roman shopping scene’s many
unique qualities, with jewel-like boutiques run by
third-generation artisans, dusty picture-framing
and basket-weaving workshops, historic depart-
ment stores all oozing an impossibly chic, old-
school glamour. Meander, explore backstreets,
y Top Tips
enjoy. ffMany city-centre
shops close on Mon-
day morning.
What to Buy
Rome is a top place to shop for designer clothes, ffWinter sales run
shoes and leather goods. Foodie treats are another from early January
obvious choice and you’ll find no end of delis, to mid-February,
bakeries, pasticcerie (pastry shops) and chocolate and summer sales
from July to early
shops. Homeware is another Italian speciality, and
September.
many shops focus on covetable kitchenware and
sleek interior design.

Shopping Areas You’ll find a number

For designer clothes head to Via dei Condotti (p64) of these in the centro
and the area around Piazza di Spagna. You’ll find storico, Tridente and
vintage shops and fashion boutiques on Via del Monti areas.
Governo Vecchio (p41) in the centro storico, and in
the Monti district (p91). Testaccio (p113) is a good Best Fashion
bet for foodie purchases, with one of Rome’s best Re(f)use Ethical fashion:
delis and a daily market. bags and jewellery made
from upcycled objects by
Artisans Rome-born designer Ilaria
Rome has a surprising number of designers and Venturini Fendi. (p64)
artisans, who create and sell their goods in small, Tina Sondergaard Retro-
old-fashioned workshops. There are places where inspired dresses, adjusted
you can get a bag, wallet or belt made to your to fit, at this bijou Monti
specifications, or order a tailored tie or dress. boutique. (p91)

LUIS SANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Gente An emporium-
style, multi-label bou-
tique; essential stop for
Roman fashionistas.
(p64)
Manila Grace Essential
homegrown label for
dedicated followers of
fashion. (p65)
Best Gourmet Food
Volpetti Bulging with
delicious delicacies, and
notably helpful staff.
(p115)
Antica Caciara Traste-
verina Wonderful,
century-old deli in Traste-
vere brimming with gour-
met cheeses and salami
(can be vacuum-packed
Boutique shops on Via dei Condotti (p64)
to transport home), dried
foodstuffs etc. (p129)
Salumeria Roscioli
Byword for foodie
excellence, with mouth-
watering Italian and for-
eign delicacies. (p52)
Biscottificio Innocenti
Enchanting, old-world
biscuit shop in a Traste-
vere backstreet. (p129)
Confetteria Moriondo
& Gariglio A magical-
seeming chocolate shop.
(p51)
Best Bookshops
Almost Corner Book-
shop Superbly stocked,
English-language book-
shop. (p129)
Best Shopping 167
Feltrinelli International
Limited but excellent
range of latest releases
in English, Spanish,
French, German and
Portuguese. (p91)
Best Markets
Porta Portese Rome’s
historic Sunday morning
flea market on the banks
of the Tiber. (p129)
Nuovo Mercato di
Testaccio Enjoy colours
and characters at Testac-
cio’s neighbourhood
market. (p113)
Campo de’ Fiori One
of Rome’s best-known
markets on a historic
central piazza. (p51)
168 Best Culture

Best

MAXIM APRYATIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©/ARCHITECT: ZAHA HADID

Culture
The Romans have long been passionate about
culture. Ever since crowds flocked to the Colos-
seum for gladiatorial games, the locals have
enjoyed a good show, and cultural events draw
knowledgeable and enthusiastic audiences.
Rome has everything from opera to hip-hop,
Shakespearean drama and avant-garde installa-
tions on the program: you’re sure to find a style
to suit.
y Top Tips
ffTickets for con-
Opera & Classical Music
certs, live music and
Rome’s abundance of beautiful settings makes it a theatrical perfor-
wonderful place to catch a concert. Classical music mances are widely
performances – often free – are regularly held in available across the
churches, especially around Easter, Christmas and city.
the New Year, while summer sees stages set up in
outdoor locations across the city. Top venues, such ffHotels can often
reserve tickets for
as the Auditorium Parco della Musica, often host
guests, or you can
big-name Italian and international orchestras and
contact the venue
performers. directly – check
Film, Drama & Exhibitions listings publica-
tions for booking
Romans are great cinema-goers and although most details. Otherwise
films are dubbed you can still catch a movie in its try Vivaticket (%892
original language (marked VO in listings – 234; www.vivaticket.it)
versione originale). Similarly, theatres tend to or Orbis (%06 482 74
stage performances in Italian, but you might strike 03; Piazza dell’Esquilino
it lucky. You’ll have no language problems enjoying 37; h9.30am-1pm &
the many art exhibitions that come to town. 4-7pm Mon-Sat; gVia
Centri Sociali & Counterculture Cavour).
Rome’s alternative scene is focused on the city’s
centri sociali (social centres). These counter­culture
hubs, which started life as organised squats, gave poetry slams, indie
rise to Italy’s hip-hop and rap scenes in the 1980s fashion shows or drum-
and still stage alternative entertainment, be it and-bass gigs.

NATTAKIT JEERAPATMAITREE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Auditorium Parco della Musica (p148), designed by architect Renzo Piano
Best Classical
Venues
Auditorium Parco della
Musica Great acoustics,
top international classical
musicians and multiple
concert halls. (p148)
Teatro dell’Opera
di Roma Great, red-
velvet and gilt interior for
Rome’s opera and dance
companies. (p90)
Terme di Caracalla Won-
derful outdoor setting for
summer opera and ballet.
(p111)
Best for Jazz
Alexanderplatz Rome’s
foremost jazz club, with a
mix of international and
local musicians. (p145)
Auditorium Parco della
Musica Stages, among
other things, the Roma
Jazz Festival. (p148)
Charity Café Spindly
tables and chairs, in an
intimate space, hosting
regular live gigs. (p90)
Big Mama An atmos-
pheric Trastevere venue
for jazz, blues, funk, soul
and R&B. (p121)
Gregory’s Jazz Club
Popular with local musi-
cians, a smooth venue
close to the Spanish
Steps. (p76)
Best for Live Music
Blackmarket Bar filled
with vintage sofas and
armchairs, great for
Best Culture 169
eclectic, mainly acoustic
live music. (p90)
ConteStaccio Free live
music on the Testaccio
clubbing strip. (p115)
Lettere Caffè Live
music plus poetry,
comedy and DJs are on
offer. (p128)
Best Theatres
Teatro Argentina
Rome’s premier theatre
with a wide-ranging
programme of plays, per-
formances and concerts.
(p51)
Teatro India The al-
ternative home of the
Teatro di Roma. (p51)
170 Best For Kids

Best
For Kids

TRAVNIKOVSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Despite a reputation as a highbrow cultural
destination, Rome has a lot to offer kids. Child-
specific sights might be thin on the ground but if
you know where to go there’s plenty to keep the
little ’uns occupied and parents happy.

Best Museums Museo delle Mura

Explora – Museo dei (%06 7047 5284; www.
Bambini di Roma (%06 museodellemuraroma.it; y Top Tips
361 37 76; www.mdbr.it; Via di Porta San Sebastiano
ffCobbled streets
Via Flaminia 80-86; adult/ 18; admission free; h9am-
make getting around
reduced €8/5; hentrance 2pm Tue-Sun; gPorta San
with a pram or push-
10am, noon, 3pm & 5pm Sebastiano) Walk along
chair difficult.
Tue-Sun; mFlaminio) Near a stretch of the Aure-
Piazza del Popolo is lian Wall at this small ffIn a restaurant ask
this hands-on museum museum housed in one for a mezza porzione
for kids under 12, with of Rome’s ancient city (child’s portion) and
interactive displays and a gates. seggiolone (high-
free play park. chair).

Museo delle Cere (Wax Best Shopping ffBuy baby formula

Museum; %06 679 64 82; Bartolucci (Map p42, D3; and sterilising solu-
www.museodellecereroma. www.bartolucci.com; Via tions at pharmacies.
com; Piazza dei Santissimi Disposable nappies
dei Pastini 98; h10am-
Apostoli 67; adult/reduced (diapers; pannolini)
10.30pm; gVia del Corso) A
€9/4.50; h9am-9pm sum- are available from
sure-fire kid pleaser, this
supermarkets and
mer, to 8pm winter; gVia toy shop will also charm pharmacies.
IV Novembre) Go face to parents with its wonder-
face with popes, rock ful wood-carved toys. ffUnder 10s travel
stars and footy players free on all public
at Rome’s cheesy wax transport in the city.
museum.
 Best Tours 171

Best
Tours
Taking a guided tour is an excellent way of seeing

PAOLIKPHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
a lot in a short time or investigating a sight in
depth. In high season, book tours in advance.

Best Walking Tours org; single tour €12, 24/48hr

ticket €25/28) These hop-
Roman Guy (https://the
on hop-off bus tours are
romanguy.com) Packages,
an easy means of getting
led by English-speaking
around the main sights
experts, include skip-the-
for families with young
y Top Tip
line visits to the Vatican
children and those who ffAn advantage of
Museums (US$89),
can’t walk far. taking a guided tour
foodie tours of Trastevere
and the Jewish Ghetto of big-ticket sights is
(US$84), and an even- Best by Bike or that you can cut out
ing bar-hop through the Scooter the queue for tickets,
historic centre’s cocktail skip the line to get in
Bici e Baci (%06 481 and occasionally gain
bars (US$225). 40 64; www.bicibaci.com; access to parts of a
A Friend in Rome Via Rosmini 26; bike tours building not usually
(%340 501 92 01; www. from €30, Vespa tours from open to the public.
afriendinrome.it) Silvia €145; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat;
Prosperi and her team mTermini) Offers guided
offer a range of private tours of the main his- per day €25; h9am-7pm;
tours covering the torical sites by bicycle, mTermini) Across the
Vatican and main historic Vespa, a Fiat 500 or road from Stazione
centre as well as areas funky three-wheeled Ape Termini; rents e-bikes
outside the capital. Calessino. and organises guided
Vespa/e-bike tours (from
Vespa Style Roma
€70/40).
Best by Bus (%06 446 62 68; www.
Open Bus Cristiana vespastyleroma.it; Via
(%06 69 89 61; www. Milazzo 3a; Vespa rental per
operaromanapellegrinaggi. hour/day €15/69, e-bikes
172 Best LGBTIQ

Best
LGBTIQ

LUCKY TEAM STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

The city has a thriving, if low-key, gay scene.
There are relatively few queer-only venues but
the Colosseum end of Via di San Giovanni in
Laterano is a favourite hang-out and many clubs
host regular gay and lesbian nights. There is
also a popular gay beach, Settimo Cielo, outside
Rome at Capocotta, accessible via bus 61 from
Ostia Lido.

Attitudes ers. It serves up an eclec- y Top Tips

Rome is by nature a
conservative city and
its legislators have long
looked to the Vatican
for guidance on moral
and social issues. That
said, the city’s gay com-
munity has taken steps
out of the closet in
recent times and while
Rome is no San Fran on
the Med and discretion
is still wise, tolerance is
widespread.
Events
Gay Village (www.gay
village.it; Parco del Ninfeo,
EUR; hJun–Sep; mEUR
Magliana) Rome’s big
annual LGBT event, held
in EUR, attracts crowds
of partygoers and an
exuberant cast of DJs,
musicians and entertain-
tic mix of dance music, ffArcigay Roma
film screenings, cultural
(%06 6450 1102; www.
debates, and theatrical
arcigayroma.it; Via
performances.
Nicola Zabaglia 14) is
the Roman branch
Venues of Italy’s national
Coming Out (Map p100, organisation for the
B1; %06 700 98 71; www. LGBTIQ community.
comingout.it; Via di San ffCircolo Mario
Giovanni in Laterano 8; Mieli di Cultura
h7.30am-2am; gVia Labi- Omosessuale (%06
cana) On warm evenings, 541 39 85; www.mario
with lively crowds on the mieli.org; Via Efeso 2a;
street and the Colos- h9am-6pm Mon-Fri;
seum as a backdrop, mBasilica San Paolo)
there are few finer places organises debates,
to sip a drink than this cultural events and
friendly gay bar. social functions.
L’Alibi (%06 574 34 48;
Via di Monte Testaccio 44;
serving up a mixed
h11.30pm-5am Fri & Sat;
mash of house, techno,
gVia Galvani) A historic
hip-hop, Latino, pop and
gay club, L’Alibi is still
dance to a mixed gay and
kicking, hosting regular
straight crowd.
weekend parties and
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
173

Survival Guide

Before You Go 174

When to Go. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Book Your Stay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174

Arriving in Rome 176

Leonardo da Vinci Airport
(Fiumicino) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Ciampino Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176
Stazione Termini & Bus Station. . . . . . . 177

Getting Around 177

Metro. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Bus. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178
Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178

Essential Information 179

Business Hours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Electricity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Emergencies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Public Holidays . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Safe Travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Telephone Services . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Toilets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Tourist Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182
Travellers with Disabilities . . . . . . . . . 182
Visas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

Language 184
174

Survival
Guide

Before You Go Book Your Stay

¨¨Rome is expensive
and busy; book ahead to
secure the best deal.
When to Go ¨¨Accommodation ranges
from palatial five-star
hotels to hostels, B&Bs,
pensioni and private
rooms. Hostels are the
cheapest, with dorm beds
and private rooms. B&Bs
and hotels cover every
style and price range.
¨¨Always try to book
ahead, especially in high
season (Easter to Sep-
¨¨Winter (Dec–Feb) ¨¨Summer (Jun–Aug) tember) and during major
Cold, short days. Muse- Very hot. Plenty of out- religious festivals.
ums are quiet and prices door events. In August, ¨¨Ask for a camera mat-
are low except at Christ- Romans desert the city rimoniale for a room with
mas and New Year. and hoteliers drop prices. a double bed; a camera
¨¨Spring (Mar–May) ¨¨Autumn (Sep–Nov) doppia has twin beds.
Warm, sunny weather. Still warm. Crowds die ¨¨When you check in you’ll
Fervent Easter celebra- down and the Roma need to present your pass-
tions and azaleas on the Europa festival is on. No- port or ID card. Checkout
Spanish Steps. Busy, vember brings rain and is usually between 10am
with high prices. low-season prices. and noon. In hostels it’s
around 9am.

Useful Websites
Lonely Planet (www.lonely
planet.com/italy/rome/hotels)

Author-reviewed accom-
modation options.
Cross Pollinate (www.
cross-pollinate.com)
Personally vetted rooms
and apartments by the
team behind Rome’s
super-efficient and stylish
Beehive hostel.
Bed & Breakfast As-
sociation of Rome
(www.b-b.rm.it) B&Bs and
short-term apartment
rentals.
Bed & Breakfast Italia
(www.bbitalia.it) Rome’s
longest-established B&B
network.
Rome As You Feel
(www.romeasyoufeel.com)
Apartment rentals; cheap
studio flats to luxury
apartments.
Best Budget
Generator Hostel (%06
492 330; https://generator
hostels.com; Via Principe
Amedeo 257; dm €17-70, d
€50-200; aiW; mVit-
torio Emanuele) Urban-
chic (non)hostelling in
Esquilino.
Althea Inn (%06 9893
2666, 339 4353717; www.
altheainn.com; Via dei Concia-
tori 9; d €120; aW; mPira-
mide) Designer comfort at
budget prices.
Beehive (%06 4470 4553;
www.the-beehive.com; Via
Marghera 8; dm €35-40, d
without bathroom €80, s/d/
tr €70/100/120; hrecep-
tion 7am-11pm; aW;
mTermini) Classy hostel
near Termini.
Hotel Pensione Barrett
(%06 686 8481; www.
pensionebarrett.com; Largo
di Torre Argentina 47; s/d/tr
€115/135/165; aW; gLargo
di Torre Argentina) Welcom-
ing old-school pensione
with exuberant decor.
Best Midrange
Palm Gallery Hotel (%06
6478 1859; www.palmgallery
hotel.com; Via delle Alpi 15d;
s €130-160, d €150-210;
aWs; gVia Nomentana,
gViale Regina Margherita)
Delightful hotel in elegant
residential neighbourhood.
Arco del Lauro (%06
9784 0350; www.arcodel
lauro.it; Via Arco de’ Tolomei
27; d €95-135, q €135-175;
aiW; gViale di Traste-
vere, jViale di Trastevere)
B&B bolthole in happen-
ing Trastevere.
Residenza Maritti (%06
678 82 33; www.residenza
maritti.com; Via Tor de’ Conti
17; s/d/tr €120/170/190;
aW; mCavour) Hidden
gem with captivating
views over the Forums.
Before You Go 175
Nerva Boutique Hotel
(%06 678 18 35; www.
hotelnerva.com; Via Tor de’
Conti 3; d €143-300; aW;
mCavour) Stylish hide­
away at the back of the
Imperial Forums.
Best Top End
Villa Spalletti Trivelli
(%06 4890 7934; www.villa
spalletti.it; Via Piacenza
4; d €625; paiW;
mSpagna) Live like
country-house nobility.
Hotel Campo de’ Fiori
(%06 6880 6865; www.
hotelcampodefiori.com; Via
del Biscione 6; r €280-430,
apt €230-350; aiW;
gCorso Vittorio Emanuele
II) Classy four-star in the
heart of the action.
Gigli d’Oro Suite (%06
6839 2055; www.giglidoro
suite.com; Via dei Gigli
d’Oro 12; r €215-410; aW;
gCorso del Rinascimento)
Contemporary style in
a 15th-century palazzo
(mansion).
Fendi Private Suites
(%06 9779 8080; www.
fendiprivatesuites.com; Via
della Fontanella di Borghese
48, Palazzo Fendi; d from
€900; paiW; gVia del
Corso) Live the fashion-
designer dream inside
Palazzo Fendi.
176 Survival Guide
Arriving in
Rome
Leonardo da Vinci
Airport (Fiumicino)
Rome’s main interna-
tional airport, Leonardo
da Vinci (Fiumicino; %06 6
59 51; www.adr.it/fiumicino),
is 30km west of the city.
It’s divided into four ter-
minals: Terminals 1, 2 and
3 are for domestic and
international flights; Ter-
minal 5 is for American
and Israeli airlines flying
to the US and Israel.
The easiest way to get
into town is by train, but
there are also buses and
private shuttle services.
Leonardo Express Train
(one-way €14) Runs to/
from Stazione Termini.
Departures from Fiu-
micino airport every 30
minutes between 6.23am
and 11.23pm; from Ter-
mini between 5.35am and
10.35pm. Journey time is
30 minutes.
FL1 Train (one-way €8)
Connects to Trastevere,
Ostiense and Tibur-
tina stations, but not
Termini. Departures
from Fiumicino airport
every 15 minutes (half-
hourly on Sundays and
public holidays) between
5.57am and 10.42pm;
from Tiburtina every 15
minutes between 5.01am
and 7.31pm, then half-
hourly to 10.01pm.
SIT Bus (Fiumicino)
(%06 591 68 26; www.
sitbusshuttle.com; one-way/
return €6/11) Regular
departures from Rome
Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumi-
cino) Airport to Stazione
Termini (Via Marsala)
from 8.30am to 12.30am;
from Termini between
5am and 8.30pm. All
buses stop near the Vati-
can (Via Crescenzio 2) en
route. Tickets are avail-
able on the bus. Journey
time is approximately
one hour.
Cotral Airport Bus
(%800 174471; www.
cotralspa.it; one-way €5,
purchased on the bus €7)
Runs between Fiumicino
and Stazione Tiburtina
via Termini. Three to six
daily departures including
night services from the
airport at 1.15am, 2.15am,
3.30am and 5am,
and from Tiburtina at
12.30am, 1.15am, 2.30am
and 3.45am. Journey
time is one hour.
Ciampino Airport
Ciampino (%06 6 59 51;
www.adr.it/ciampino), 15km
southeast of the city
centre, is used by Ryanair
(%895 5895509; www.
ryanair.com) for European
and Italian destinations.
It’s not a big airport but
there’s a steady flow of
traffic and at peak times
it can get extremely busy.
To get into town, the
best option is to take one
of the dedicated bus ser-
vices. You can also take a
bus to Ciampino station
and then pick up a train
to Termini.
Airport Shuttle (%06
420 13 469; www.airport
shuttle.it) Transfers to/
from your hotel for €25
for one person, then €6
for each additional pas-
senger up to a maximum
of eight.
SIT Bus – Ciampino
(%06 591 68 26; www.sitbus
shuttle.com; to/from airport
€6/5, return €9) Regular
departures from the
airport to Via Marsala
outside Stazione Ter-
mini between 7.45am and
11.15pm; from Termini
between 4.30am and
9.30pm. Get tickets on
the bus. Journey time is
45 minutes.

Atral (www.atral-lazio.com)
Runs regular buses be-
tween Ciampino Airport
and Anagnina metro
station (€1.20) and Ciam-
pino train station (€1.20),
where you can get a train
to Termini (€1.50).
Stazione Termini &
Bus Station
¨¨Rome’s main station
and principal trans-
port hub is Stazione
Termini (www.romatermini.
com; Piazza dei Cinquecento;
mTermini). It has regular
connections to other
European countries, all
major Italian cities and
many smaller towns.
¨¨Train information is
available from the Cus-
tomer Service area on the
main concourse to the
left of the ticket desks.
Alternatively, check www.
trenitalia.com or phone
%892 021.
¨¨From Termini, you can
connect with the metro
or take a bus from Pi-
azza dei Cinquecento out
front. Taxis are outside
the main entrance/exit.
¨¨Left luggage (Stazione
Termini; 1st 5hr €6, 6-12hr per
hour €0.90, 13hr & over per
hour €0.40; h6am-11pm;
mTermini) is available by
platform 24 on the Via
Giolitti side of the station.
Getting
Around
Public transport includes
buses, trams, metro and
a suburban train network.
The main hub is Stazione
Termini.
Metro
¨¨Rome has two main
metro lines, A (orange)
and B (blue), which cross
at Termini. A branch line,
‘B1’, serves the northern
Buses from Termini
From Piazza dei Cinquecento outside Stazione
Termini buses run to all corners of the city.
DESTINATION
St Peter’s Square
Piazza Venezia
Piazza Navona
Campo de’ Fiori
Pantheon
Colosseum
Terme di Caracalla
Villa Borghese
Trastevere
Getting Around 177
suburbs, and line C runs
through the southeast-
ern outskirts, but you’re
unlikely to need those.
¨¨Trains run between
5.30am and 11.30pm (to
1.30am on Fridays and
Saturdays).
¨¨All stations on line B
have wheelchair access
and lifts except Circo
Massimo, Colosseo and
Cavour. On line A, Cipro
and Termini are equipped
with lifts.
¨¨Take line A for the Trevi
Fountain (mBarberini),
Spanish Steps (mSpag-
na) and St Peter’s
(mOttaviano–San
Pietro).
¨¨Take line B for the Col-
osseum (mColosseo).
BUS NO
40/64
40/64
40/64
40/64
40/64
75
714
910
H
178 Survival Guide
midnight, with limited
Tickets & Passes services throughout the
Public-transport tickets are valid on all of night.
Rome’s bus, tram and metro lines, except for ¨¨Rome’s night bus
routes to Fiumicino airport. They come in vari- service comprises more
ous forms: than 25 lines, many of
BIT (biglietto integrato a tempo, a single ticket which pass Termini and/
valid for 100 minutes; in that time it can be used or Piazza Venezia. Buses
on all forms of transport but only once on the are marked with an ‘n’
metro) €1.50 before the number and
bus stops have a blue
Roma 24h (valid for 24 hours) €7 owl symbol. Departures
Roma 48h (valid for 48 hours) €12.50 are usually every 15 to
30 minutes, but can be
Roma 72h (valid for 72 hours) €18
much slower.
CIS (carta integrata settimanale, a weekly
ticket) €24 Tram
Abbonamento mensile (monthly pass) Pass Rome has a limited tram
restricted to a single user €35; a pass that can network. For route maps
be used by anyone €53 see www.atac.roma.it.
The most useful lines
Roma Pass (valid within the city boundaries for include:
two/three days €28/38.50)
2 Piazzale Flaminio to/
Buy tickets at tabacchi (tobacconist’s shops), from Piazza Mancini.
at newsstands and from vending machines at
main bus stops and metro stations. They must 3 Museo Nazionale
be purchased before you start your journey Etrusco di Villa Giulia to/
and validated in the machines on buses, at the from San Lorenzo, San
entrance gates to the metro, or at train stations. Giovanni and Trastevere.
Ticketless riders risk a fine of at least €50.
8 Piazza Venezia to/from
Children under 10 years travel free.
Trastevere.
19 Piazza del Risor-
Bus information booth (Piazza gimento to/from Villa
dei Cinquecento; h8am- Borghese, San Lorenzo,
¨¨Rome’s bus service is
8pm; mTermini). Via Prenestina.
run by ATAC (%06 5 70 03;
www.atac.roma.it). ¨¨Other important hubs
are at Largo di Torre Taxi
¨¨The main bus station
Argentina and Piazza
(Piazza dei Cinquecento) is in ¨¨Official licensed taxis
Venezia.
front of Stazione Termini are white with an ID num-
on Piazza dei Cinque- ¨¨Buses generally run ber and Roma Capitale on
cento, where there’s an from about 5.30am until the sides.
 Essential Information 179
¨¨Always go with the Saturday, some 11am–
metered fare, never an 7pm Sunday; smaller
arranged price (the set shops 9am–1pm and
fares to and from the
3.30–7.30pm (or 4pm
airports are exceptions).
to 8pm) Monday to Sat-
¨¨Official rates are posted urday; some shops are
in taxis and at https://ro-
closed Monday morning
mamobilita.it/it/servizi/
taxi/tariffe. Clubs 10pm–4am or 5am
¨¨You can hail a taxi, but Restaurants noon–3pm
it’s often easier to wait and 7.30–11pm (later in
at a rank or phone for summer)
one. There are taxi ranks
at the airports, Stazione
Termini, main sights and
piazzas.
Electricity 230V/50Hz
¨¨The website
www.060608.it has a list
of taxi companies – click
on the transport tab, then Emergencies
‘getting around’ and ‘by
Ambulance %118
taxi’.
Fire %115
Police %112, 113

Money
Essential ATMS
Information ¨¨ATMs (known in Italy
as bancomat) are widely
available in Rome and
Business Hours
most will accept cards
Banks 8.30am–1.30pm tied into the Visa, Master-
and 2.45–4.30pm Mon- Card, Cirrus and Maestro
day to Friday systems.
230V/50Hz
Bars & cafes 7.30am– ¨¨The daily limit for cash
8pm, sometimes until withdrawal is €250.
1am or 2am ¨¨Always let your bank
Shops 9am–7.30pm or know when you are going
abroad, in case it blocks
10am–8pm Monday to
your card when payments
180 Survival Guide
Tipping
Discount Cards Romans are not big tip-
pers, but the following is
Archaeologia Card (adult/reduced €25/15; a rough guide:
valid for 7 days) Entrance to the Colosseum,
Palatino, Roman Forum, Museo Nazionale Bars Not necessary,
Romano (Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo although many people
alle Terme, Terme di Diocleziano, Crypta Balbi), leave small change if
Terme di Caracalla, Mausoleo di Cecilia Metella drinking at the bar.
and Villa dei Quintili. Available at participating Hotels Tip porters about
sites or by calling %06 3996 7700. €5 at A-list hotels.
Omnia Card (€115; valid for 72 hours) Includes Restaurants Service
fast-track entry to the Vatican Museums and (servizio) is generally
other major sites; audio guides for St. Peter’s included; if it’s not, a euro
Basilica and Basilica di San Giovanni. Free travel or two is fine in pizzerias,
on the Roma Cristiana Open Bus and unlimited no more than 10% in
public transport within Rome. Free entry to restaurants.
two sites, then 50% discount to extra sites. A Taxis Optional, but most
24-hour version is also available (€55). Details at people round up to the
www.omniakit.org. nearest euro.
Roma Pass (€38.50; valid for 72 hours) Includes
free admission to two museums or sites, as well Public Holidays
as reduced entry to extra sites, unlimited city
Capodanno (New Year’s
transport, and discounted entry to other exhibi-
Day) 1 January
tions and events. The 48-hour Roma Pass (€28)
is a more limited version. Further information at Epifania (Epiphany) 6
www.romapass.it. January
Pasquetta (Easter
Monday) March/April
from unusual locations credit cards, as do most
appear. restaurants and large Giorno della Liberazi-
shops. Some cheaper one (Liberation Day) 25
¨¨Beware of transaction
pensioni, trattorias and April
fees. Typically your home
pizzerias only accept cash.
bank will charge a foreign Festa del Lavoro
Don’t rely on credit cards
exchange fee as well as (Labour Day) 1 May
at museums or galleries.
a transaction fee. Check
Festa della Repubblica
details with your bank. ¨¨If your card is lost,
(Republic Day) 2 June
stolen or swallowed by an
Credit Cards ATM, telephone to have Festa dei Santi Pietro e
¨¨Virtually all midrange an immediate stop put on Paolo (Feast of Sts Peter
and top-end hotels accept its use. & Paul) 29 June
 Essential Information 181
Ferragosto (Feast of the ¨¨Always check your which is compatible with
Assumption) 15 August change to see you haven’t the rest of Europe and
been short-changed. Australia but not always
Festa di Ognisanti (All
with the North American
Saints’ Day) 1 November ¨¨In case of theft or loss,
GSM or CDMA systems –
always report the incident
Festa dell’Immacolata check with your service
to the police within 24
Concezione (Feast of the hours and ask for a
provider.
Immaculate Conception) statement. ¨¨The cheapest way of
8 December using your mobile is to
Natale (Christmas Day) Telephone buy a prepaid (prepagato)
Italian SIM card. TIM (Tel-
25 December Services
ecom Italia Mobile; www.
Festa di Santo Stefano Local SIM cards can tim.it), Wind (www.wind.
(Boxing Day) be used in European, it), Vodafone (www.voda-
26 December Australian and unlocked fone.it) and Tre (www.tre.
US phones. Other phones it) all offer SIM cards and
must be set to roaming.
Safe Travel have retail outlets across
Rome is a safe city but ¨¨Italian mobile phones town.
petty theft can be a operate on the GSM ¨¨Note that by Italian
problem. 900/1800 network, law all SIM cards must
¨¨Pickpockets are active
in touristy areas such as
the Colosseum, Piazza Dos & Don’ts
di Spagna and St Peter’s Do…
Square.
¨¨Greet people with a buongiorno (good morn-
¨¨Be alert around Stazione ing) or buonasera (good evening).
Termini and on crowded
¨¨Dress the part – cover up when visiting
public transport – the 64
Vatican bus is notorious. churches and go smart when eating out.
¨¨Eat pasta with a fork (not a spoon) and keep
¨¨Never drape your bag
over an empty chair at a your hands on the table (not under it).
streetside cafe or put it Don’t…
where you can’t see it.
¨¨Feel you have to order everything on the menu.
¨¨Beware of gangs of kids No one seriously expects you to eat a starter,
demanding attention. If pasta, second course and dessert.
you notice that you’ve
¨¨Order cappuccino after lunch or dinner. Well,
been targeted, either take
OK, you can, but Romans don’t.
evasive action or shout
‘Va via!’ (‘Go away!’). ¨¨Wait for cars to stop at pedestrian crossings.
You’ll have to make the first move if you want to
cross the road.
182 Survival Guide
be registered in Italy, so
make sure you have a
passport or ID card with
you when you buy one.
Toilets
Public toilets are not
widespread but you’ll
find them at St Peter’s
Square and Stazione
Termini (€1). If you’re
caught short, the best
thing to do is to nip into a
cafe or bar.
Tourist Information
Turismo Roma (www.
turismoroma.it/?lang=en;
c), Rome’s official
tourist website, has com-
prehensive information
about sights, accom-
modation, city transport,
as well as itineraries and
up-to-date listings.
There are tourist
information points at
Leonardo da Vinci
(Fiumicino) (International
Arrivals, Terminal 3; h8am-
8.45pm) and Ciampino (Ar-
rivals Hall; h8.30am-6pm)
airports, and locations
across the city:
Piazza delle Cinque
Lune (Map p42; Piazza delle
Cinque Lune; h9.30am-7pm;
gCorso del Rinascimento)
Near Piazza Navona.
Stazione Termini (%06
06 08; www.turismoroma.
it; Via Giovanni Giolitti 34;
h9am-5pm; mTermini)
In the hall adjacent to
platform 24.
Fori Imperiali (Map
p30; Via dei Fori Imperiali;
h9.30am-7pm; gVia dei
Fori Imperiali)
Via Marco Minghetti
(%06 06 08; www.turismo
roma.it; Via Marco Minghetti;
h9.30am-7pm; gVia del
Corso) Between Via del
Corso and the Trevi
fountain.
Via Nazionale (%06 06
08; www.turismoroma.it; Via
Nazionale 184; h9.30am-
7pm; gVia Nazionale) In
front of the Palazzo delle
Esposizioni.
Castel Sant’Angelo
(Piazza Pia; h9.30am-7pm;
gPiazza Pia)
For information about
the Vatican, contact
the Ufficio Pellegrini e
Turisti (Map p140; %06
6988 1662; St Peter’s Square;
h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat;
gPiazza del Risorgimento,
mOttaviano-San Pietro).
Travellers with
Disabilities
¨¨Cobbled streets,
paving stones, blocked
pavements and tiny
lifts are difficult for the
wheelchair-bound, while
the relentless traffic
can be disorienting for
partially sighted travellers
or those with hearing
difficulties.
¨¨All stations on metro
line B have wheelchair
access and lifts except for
Circo Massimo, Colosseo
and Cavour. On line A,
Cipro and Termini are
equipped with lifts.
¨¨Bus 590 covers the
same route as metro line
A and is one of 19 bus and
tram services with wheel-
chair access. Routes
with disabled access are
indicated on bus stops.
¨¨If travelling by train,
ring the national helpline
%199 303060 to arrange
assistance. At Stazione
Termini, the Sala Blu As-
sistenza Disabili (%800
90 60 60; Stazione Termini;
h6.45am-9.30pm; mTer-
mini) next to platform 1
can provide information
on wheelchair-accessible
trains and help with
transport in the station.
Contact the office 24
hours ahead if you know
you’re going to need as-
sistance. There are simi-
lar offices at Tiburtina
and Ostiense stations.

¨¨Some taxis are
equipped to carry pas-
sengers in wheelchairs;
ask for a taxi for a sedia a
rotelle (wheelchair).
¨¨Download Lonely
Planet’s free Accessible
Travel guide from http://
lptravel.to/Accessible-
Travel.
Essential Information 183
Visas
¨¨Italy is one of the 26 Eu-
ropean countries to make
up the Schengen area.
¨¨EU citizens do not need
a visa to enter Italy – a
valid ID card or passport
is sufficient.
¨¨Nationals of Australia,
Canada, Israel, Japan,
New Zealand, Switzerland
and the USA do not need
a visa for stays of up to
90 days.
¨¨Nationals of other
countries will need a
Schengen tourist visa –
to check requirements
see www.schengenvisa
info.com/tourist-
schengen-visa/.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
184
Language
Regional dialects are an important
part of identity in many parts of
Italy, but you’ll have no trouble being
understood in Rome or anywhere else
in the country if you stick to standard
Italian, which is what we’ve also used
in this chapter.
The sounds used in spoken Italian
can all be found in English. If you read
our pronunciation guides as if they
were English, you’ll be understood.
The stressed syllables are indicated
with italics. Note that ai is pronounced
as in ‘aisle’, ay as in ‘say’, ow as in
‘how’, dz as the ‘ds’ in ‘lids’, and that r
is a strong and rolled sound.
To enhance your trip with a phrase-
book, visit lonelyplanet.com. Lonely
Planet iPhone phrasebooks are avail-
able through the Apple App store.
Basics
Hello.
Buongiorno. bwon·jor·no
Goodbye.
Arrivederci. a·ree·ve·der·chee
How are you?
Come sta? ko·me sta
Fine. And you?
Bene. E Lei? be·ne e lay
Please.
Per favore. per fa·vo·re
Thank you.
Grazie. gra·tsye
Excuse me.
Mi scusi. mee skoo·zee
Sorry.
Mi dispiace. mee dees·pya·che
Yes./No.
Sì./No. see/no
I don’t understand.
Non capisco. non ka·pee·sko
Do you speak English?
Parla inglese? par·la een·gle·ze
Eating & Drinking
I’d like … Vorrei … vo·ray …
a coffee un caffè oon ka·fe
a table un tavolo oon ta·vo·lo
the menu il menù eel me·noo
two beers due birre doo·e bee·re
What would you recommend?
Cosa mi ko·za mee
consiglia? kon·see·lya
Enjoy the meal!
Buon appetito! bwon a·pe·tee·to
That was delicious!
Era squisito! e·ra skwee·zee·to
Cheers!
Salute! sa·loo·te
Can you bring me the bill, please?
Mi porta il conto, mee por·ta eel kon·to
per favore? per fa·vo·re
Shopping
I’d like to buy …
Vorrei comprare … vo·ray kom·pra·re …
I’m just looking.
Sto solo sto so·lo
guardando. gwar·dan·do

How much is this?
Quanto costa kwan·to kos·ta
questo? kwe·sto
It’s too expensive.
È troppo caro/ e tro·po ka·ro/
cara. (m/f) ka·ra
Emergencies
Help!
Aiuto! a·yoo·to
Call the police!
Chiami la kya·mee la
polizia! po·lee·tsee·a
Call a doctor!
Chiami un kya·mee oon
medico! me·dee·ko
I’m sick.
Mi sento male. mee sen·to ma·le
I’m lost.
Mi sono perso/ mee so·no per·so/
persa. (m/f) per·sa
Where are the toilets?
Dove sono i do·ve so·no ee
gabinetti? ga·bee·ne·tee
Time & Numbers
What time is it?
Che ora è? ke o·ra e
It’s (two) o’clock.
Sono le (due). so·no le (doo·e)
morning mattina ma·tee·na
afternoon pomeriggio po·me·ree·jo
evening sera se·ra
yesterday ieri ye·ree
today oggi o·jee
tomorrow domani do·ma·nee
Language 185
1 uno oo·no
2 due doo·e
3 tre tre
4 quattro kwa·tro
5 cinque cheen·kwe
6 sei say
7 sette se·te
8 otto o·to
9 nove no·ve
10 dieci dye·chee
100 cento chen·to
1000 mille mee·le
Transport & Directions
Where’s …?
Dov’è …? do·ve …
What’s the address?
Qual’è kwa·le
l’indirizzo? leen·dee·ree·tso
Can you show me (on the map)?
Può mostrarmi pwo mos·trar·mee
(sulla pianta)? (soo·la pyan·ta)
At what time does the ... leave?
A che ora a ke o·ra
parte ...? par·te …
Does it stop at ...?
Si ferma a ...? see fer·ma a ...
How do I get there?
Come ci si ko·me chee see
arriva? a·ree·va
bus autobus ow·to·boos
ticket biglietto bee·lye·to
timetable orario o·ra·ryo
train il treno eel tre·no
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
186

Behind the Scenes

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Our Readers
Many thanks to the travellers who used
the last edition and wrote to us with
helpful hints, useful advice and interest-
ing anecdotes: Rod Berrieman, Pilar
Cajade, Matthew Gabhann, Julie Little,
Peter Somers and Kate Storey.
Acknowledgements
Cover photograph: Teatro di Marcello,
Luigi Vaccarella/4Corners ©
Contents photograph: Roman Forum,
tupungato/Getty ©
Duncan’s Thanks
A big thank you to fellow Rome author
Nicola Williams for her suggestions and
great work, and to Anna Tyler at LP for all
her support. For their tips and help with
research, grazie to Silvia Prosperi and
Vania di Cicco at Frascati. Also a shout-out
to Richard McKenna for his entertaining
lunch company. As always, a big, heartfelt
hug to Lidia and the boys, Ben and Nick.
Nicola’s Thanks
Grazie mille to those who shared their
Roman love and insider knowledge: Linda
Martinez, Daniela & Lorenza, Elyssa
Bernard, Fiona Brewer, Sian Lloyd &
Lorna Davidson, Gina Tringali & Eleonora
Baldwin, passionate art historians Molly
McllWrath & Daisy de Plume. Finally,
kudos to my highly skilled, enthusiastic,
trilingual, family-travel research team:
Niko, Mischa & Kaya.

This Book Curator Kate Mathews Assisting Editors Katie

This 5th edition of Lonely
Planet’s Pocket Rome guide-
book was researched and
written by Duncan Garwood
and Nicola Williams. The
previous two editions were
written by Duncan and Abi-
gail Blasi. This guidebook was
produced by the following:
Destination Editor Connolly, Victoria Harrison,
Gabrielle Innes, Susan
Anna Tyler
Paterson, Monique Perrin,
Product Editors Elizabeth Fionn Twomey
Jones, Anne Mason
Cover Researcher
Senior Cartographer Naomi Parker
Anthony Phelan
Thanks to Martine Power,
Book Designer Kirsten Rawlings, Kathryn
Virginia Moreno Rowan, Lyahna Spencer,
Amanda Williamson
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
187
See also separate subindexes for:

Index 5 Eating p190

6 Drinking p190
3 Entertainment p191
7 Shopping p191

A B bathrooms 182 itineraries 37, 40-1,

accommodation Basilica dei SS Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 40
174-5 Giovanni e Paolo al 44, 53, 73, 137, 139, shopping 51-2
Celio 102 147, 155 sights 38-9, 44-6
ambulance 179
Basilica dei SS bicycle tours 171 transport 37
Ancient Rome area
Quattro Coronati Bocca della Verità 33 Chiesa del Gesù 44
22-35, 30
102 Borromini, Francesco
drinking 34 Chiesa della Trinità
Basilica di San 41, 53, 99, 139, 155 dei Monti 57
food 33-4 Clemente 101 bus tours 171 Chiesa di San Luigi
itineraries 23 Basilica di San bus travel 178 dei Francesi 45
sights 24-9, 31-3 Giovanni in business hours 179 Chiesa di Santa Maria
Laterano 98-9
transport 23 Antiqua 32
Basilica di San
aperitivo 128, 161
Lorenzo Fuori le
C Chiesa di Santa Maria
Appian Way 92-5, 94 Campo de’ Fiori 51, della Vittoria 73
Mura 79
architecture 53, 162-3 155 Chiesa di Sant’Ignazio
Basilica di San Paolo
Capitoline Museums di Loyola 154-5
art 160, 164-5, see also  Fuori le Mura 107
32, 153 Chiesa di Santo
individual artists Basilica di San Pietro
Caravaggio 45, 46, Stefano Rotondo
ATMs 179-80 in Vincoli 86
59-60, 123, 147 101
Auditorium Parco Basilica di San
Case Romane 102 children, travel with 170
della Musica 148 Sebastiano 93, 95
Castel Sant’Angelo Chiostro del Bramante
Aventino & Testaccio Basilica di Santa
142 40-1
Maria del Popolo
108-15, 110 Catacombe di San Cimitero Acattolico
59-60
drinking 114 Callisto 95 per gli Stranieri
Basilica di Santa
entertainment 115 Catacombe di San 112
Maria in Trastevere
food 112-14 118-19 Sebastiano 93 Cimitero di Campo
Catacombe di Santa Verano 79
itineraries 109 Basilica di Santa
Maria Maggiore 85 Domitilla 95 Circo di Massenzio
shopping 115 92-3
Basilica di Santa Celio, see San Giovanni
sights 111-12 & Celio Circo Massimo 33
Maria Sopra
transport 109 Minerva 45-6, 154 cell phones 16, 181-2 classical music 168, 169
Basilica di Santa centro storico area climate 174
Prassede 87 36-53, 42-3 coffee 74
Basilica di Santa drinking 49-50 Colosseum 24-5, 152
Sights 000 Sabina 112 entertainment 51 Convento dei
Map Pages 000 Basilica di food 46-9 Cappuccini 73
Sant’Agostino 46
188 Index
costs 16, 46, 180 Fontana della J shopping 91
credit cards 180 Barcaccia 57 jazz 169 sights 82-3, 85-7
currency 16 food 126, 158-9, 167, Jewish Ghetto 47 transport 81
cycling tours 171 see also individual motorcycle tours 171
jogging 33
neighbourhoods,
Eating subindex Museo Capitoline
D free sights 160 K Centrale
dangers 181 Keats, John 57, 112 Montemartini 107
de Sica, Vittorio 77 Keats-Shelley House Museo Carlo Bilotti
G 148
disabilities, travellers 57
Galleria Colonna 71-2 Museo Chiaramonti
with 182-3
Galleria Corsini 133
discount cards 180 123-4 L
Domus Aurea 86 La Galleria Nazionale Museo dell’Ara Pacis
Galleria delle Carte 60
Donation of 148
Geografiche 133 Museo e Galleria
Constantine 102, language 184-5
Galleria Doria Borghese 147
103 Pamphilj 44 Le Domus Romane di
drinking & nightlife 74, Palazzo Valentini Museo Gregoriano
Galleria Sciarra 73 Egizio 133
128, 161, see also  72-3
individual galleries 164-5, see Museo Gregoriano
lesbian travellers 172
neighbourhoods, also individual Etrusco 135
galleries LGBTIQ travellers 172
Drinking subindex Museo Nazionale delle
Garbatella 107 local life 12-13
Arti del XXI Secolo
E Garrone, Matteo 77 148
electricity 16, 179 gay travellers 172 M Museo Nazionale
Madonna della Pietà Etrusco di Villa
emergencies 179 gelato 159
72 Guilia 147-8
emperors, Roman 35 Gianicolo, see 
madonnas 72 Museo Nazionale
enoteche 128 Trastavere &
Gianicolo markets 167, see also  Romano: Palazzo
entertainment 168-9, individual markets Altemps 44-5
see also individual Gianicolo Hill 124-5
Mausoleo di Cecilia Museo Nazionale
neighbourhoods, Giardino degli Aranci
Metella 93 Romano: Palazzo
Entertainment 112
Mercati di Traiano Massimo alle
subindex Gramsci, Antonio 112 Terme 82-3
Museo dei Fori
Esquilino, see Monti & grattachecca 126 Imperiali 32 Museo Nazionale
Esquilino Romano: Terme di
metro travel 177
etiquette 181 H Michelangelo 86, 135, Diocleziano 85-6
highlights 8-13 137, 139 Museo Pio-Clementino
F history 35, 47, 53, 103, Mithraism 104 133
Fellini, Federico 77 156-7 museums 164-5, 170,
mobile phones 16,
film 77, 168 holidays 180-1 181-2 see also individual
fire 179 museums
money 16, 46, 179-80
Fontana dei Quattro I Monti & Esquilino
music 114, 168, 169
Fiumi 44 Imperial Forums 32 80-91, 84
Italian language 184-5 drinking 89-90
N
itineraries 14-15, see nightlife, see drinking &
entertainment 90-1 nightlife
also individual
Sights 000 neighbourhoods food 87-8 Nuovo Mercato di
Map Pages 000 itineraries 81 Testaccio 113
 O – W 189

O Q T shopping 64-5
opening hours 179 Quirinale, see Trevi & taxis 178-9 sights 56-7, 59-60
opera 114, 168, 169 the Quirinale Teatro di Marcello 47 transport 55
Orti Farnesiani 31 telephone services 16,
Orto Botanico 124 R 181-2 V
Ostiense 106-7, 106 Raphael 135 Terme di Caracalla Vatican City & Prati
Roman Forum 26-9, 111, 114 130-45, 140-1
152-3, 28 Testaccio, see Aventino drinking 144-5
P
Roman Holiday 61 & Testaccio entertainment 145
Palatino (Palatine
Hill) 31, 152 Rossellini, Roberto 77 theatre 169 food 143-4
Palazzo Barberini 72 running 33 time 16 itineraries 131
Palazzo del tipping 16, 180 shopping 145
Quirinale 71 S toilets 182 sights 132-9, 142
Palazzo delle safety 181 top sights 8-11 transport 131
Esposizioni 86 San Giovanni & Celio tourist information Vatican Gardens 142
Palazzo Farnese 46, 96-105, 100 182 Vatican Museums
155 drinking 104-5 tours 171, see also 132-5, 134
Palazzo Spada 41 food 103-4 walking tours Via Appia Antica
Pantheon 38-9, 155 itineraries 97 tram travel 178 92-5, 94
papal audiences 142 shopping 105 transport 17, 176-9 Via dei Condotti 64
Parco Savello 112 sights 98-9, 101-2 Trastavere & Gianicolo Via del Governo
Piazza del transport 97 116-29, 122 Vecchio 41
Campidoglio 33, San Lorenzo 78-9, 78 drinking 126-8 Via del Porto Fluviale
153 entertainment 128 107
San Paolo 106-7, 106
Piazza del Popolo 59 food 125-6 Via Giulia 41
Santuario della Scala
Piazza del Quirinale Santa & Sancta itineraries 117, 120-1, Via Margutta 61
73 Sanctorum 102 120 Villa Borghese 146-9,
Piazza della Scavi Archeologici di shopping 129 149
Repubblica 86 Ostia Antica 157 sights 118-19, 123-5 Villa Celimontana 102
Piazza di Santa Maria scooter tours 171 transport 117 Villa dei Quintili 93
in Trastevere 121
Shelley, Percy Bysshe Trevi & the Quirinale Villa del Priorato di
Piazza di Spagna Malta 111-12
57, 112 66-77, 70
56-7
shopping 166-7, 170, drinking 75 Villa di Massenzio 92
Piazza Navona 44, see also individual
155 entertainment 76 Villa Doria Pamphilj
neighbourhoods, 124
Pietà 139 food 74
Shopping subindex Villa Farnesina 124
Pigneto 78-9, 78 itineraries 67
Sistine Chapel 135 Villa Medici 60
Pinacoteca 133 shopping 76
Sorrentino, Paolo 77 visas 183
Pincio Hill Gardens 60 sights 68-9, 71-3
Spanish Steps 56-7 Vittoriano 33, 153
police 179 transport 67
St Peter’s Basilica
Pope, the 142 136-9, 138 Trevi Fountain 68-9
Tridente 54-65, 58 W
Prati, see Vatican City St Peter’s Square 142 walking tours 152-5,
& Prati Stanze di Raffaello drinking 62-4
171, 153, 155
public holidays 180-1 135 food 60-2
weather 174
itineraries 55
websites 16, 174-5
190 Index
5 Eating F N 6 Drinking
Fa-Bìo 143 Necci dal 1924 79 0,75 34
A Fatamorgana Corso
Ai Tre Scalini 87 62 O A
Alfredo e Ada 41 Fatamorgana Prati Osteria Flaminio 147 Antico Caffè Greco
144 62
Andreotti 107
Fiaschetteria P
Antonello Colonna
Beltramme 60
Open 87 Panattoni 125 B
Fior di Luna 125
Appia Antica Caffè Panella 87 Babington’s Tea
93 Flavio al Rooms 64
Velavevodetto 113 Pasta Chef 88
Armando al Pasticceria Regoli Bar San Calisto 121
Pantheon 48 Forno di Campo de’
90 Bar Stuzzichini 120
Fiori 48
Aroma 103 Pastificio 61 Barnum Cafe 49
Forno La Renella
Aromaticus 88 Pianostrada 46 Be.re 144
126
Forno Roscioli 47 Pizzarium 143 Bibenda Wine
B Pizzeria Da Remo Concept 104
Babette 62 G 113-14 Bir & Fud 128
Bistro del Quirino 74 Pompi 62 BrewDog Roma 34
Gelateria del Teatro
48
C Ginger 61 R C
Cafè Cafè 103-4 Ristorante Caffè Ciampini 63
Caffè delle Arti 147 H L’Arcangelo 144 Caffè Sant’Eustachio
Casa Bleve 48-9 Ristorante Roof 49-50
Hostaria Romana 74
Colline Emiliane 74 Garden Circus 34 Campo de’ Fiori 51
Romeo e Giulietta Casa Manfredi 114
Cups 113 I 112 Circolo Illuminati
Il Bocconcino 104
D Il Gelato 114
107
S Coming Out 105
Da Augusto 121 Il Giardino di Giulia e Said 79 Co.So 79
Da Enzo 125 Fratelli 93
San Crispino 69
Da Felice 113 Il Margutta 61-2
Da Teo 126 Il Sorì 79
Sora Mirella Caffè E
126 Etablì 50
Divin Ostilia 103 Il Sorpasso 144
Doppiozeroo 107 Imàgo 61 T F
Temakinho 87-8
E L Freni e Frizioni 121
Terre e Domus 33-4
Eataly 107 La Ciambella 47-8
Emma Pizzeria 47 La Prosciutteria 125
Tiramisù Zum 48 G
Tram Tram 79 Gin Corner 50
Est Est Est 83 L’Asino d’Oro 88 Trapizzino 113 Goa 107
M V
Mercato Centrale 88
I
Sights 000 Vineria Il Chianti 74 Il Baretto 127-8
Mordi e Vai 113
Map Pages 000 Il Palazzetto 62-3
 Entertainment 191
Il Pentagrappolo 104 Spirito 79 Anglo American
Bookshop 65
M
Il Sorì 79 Stravinskij Bar 64
Antica Caciara Manila Grace 65
Marta Ray 52
K T Trasteverina 129
Artisanal Mercato Monti Urban
Keyhole 126-7 Terrazza Caffarelli Market 91
34 Cornucopia 65
L N
V B
La Bottega del namasTèy 52
Caffè 90 Vinile 107 Bartolucci 52
Benheart 129 Nuovo Mercato di
La Casa del Caffè Vino Roma 89 Testaccio 113
Tazza d’Oro 50 Biscottificio
Innocenti 129
La Casetta a Monti Z P
89
Zuma Bar 63
L’Oasi della Birra 114 C Porta Portese Market
Campo de’ Fiori 51 129

M 3 Entertainment Confetteria Moriondo

& Gariglio 51 R
Makasar Bistrot 145
Alexanderplatz 145 Rechicle 145
Moma 75
Big Mama 121 F Re(f)use 64
Blackmarket 90
N Fausto Santini (Monti
Charity Café 90-1 & Esquilino) 76 S
Necci dal 1924 79
ConteStaccio 115 Fausto Santini (Trevi Salumeria Roscioli
Neo Club 107 & the Quirinale) 52
Fonclea 145
Gregory’s Jazz Club 76 SBU 41
O 76 Feltrinelli Soul Food 105
Open Baladin 41 Lettere Caffè 128 International 91
Nuovo Sacher 121 Flumen Profumi 65 T
P Teatro Argentina 51 Tina Sondergaard 91
Pepy’s Bar 75 Teatro dell’Opera 114 G
Pimm’s Good 126 Teatro dell’Opera di Galleria Alberto V
Roma 90 Sordi 76
Via dei Condotti 64
R Teatro India 51 Gente 64
Via Margutta 61
Rec 23 114 Volpetti 115
Rivendita Libri, I
Cioccolata e Vino 7 Shopping Ibiz – Artigianato in
127 Cuoio 51
Roscioli Caffè 50 Il Sellaio 145
A
S Abito 91 L
Said 79 Almost Corner La Bottega del
Bookshop 129 Cioccolato 91
Sciascia Caffè 144
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
192

Our Writers

Duncan Garwood
From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping
hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up
many unique experiences. These days he largely dedi-
cates himself to Italy, his adopted homeland where he’s
been living since 1997. From his base in the Castelli Rom-
ani hills outside Rome, he’s clocked up endless kilome-
tres exploring the country’s well-known destinations and
far-flung reaches, working on guides to Rome, Sardinia,
Sicily, Piedmont, and Naples & the Amalfi Coast. Other
LP titles include Italy’s Best Trips, the Food Lover’s Guide
to the World, and Pocket Bilbao & San Sebastian. He also
writes on Italy for newspapers, websites and magazines.

Nicola Williams
Border-hopping is a way of life for British writer, runner,
foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola Williams who
has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Ge-
neva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than
50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, Rome, Tuscany, France,
Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers France
as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for
the Independent, Guardian, lonelyplanet.com, Lonely Planet
Magazine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others.
Catch her on the road on Twitter and Instagram at @tripalong.

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