04/07/2018 DIY Wingback Dining Chair – How To Upholster The Frame (Part 1)

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DIY Wingback Dining Chair – How To Upholster The Frame

(Part 1)
July 5, 2016 40 Comments

*Post contains affiliate links.

Since it was a holiday weekend, I decided not to pressure myself to get the entire wingback dining chair
upholstered. I did get all of the front upholstered, though. And to be honest, it’s probably a good thing I’m
breaking the upholstery process into two posts, because I have over 35 pictures to show you just for the
front! For tutorials, I’m definitely a “more is better” kind of person when it comes to the number of pictures
I use.

Anyway, if you missed the first part of this project where I built the frame for this chair, you can find that
here. This is truly a DIY made-from-scratch wingback chair.

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R$ 604,30 R$ 641,52

So at the end of the last post, I had a frame that looked like this…

Before I could get started with the upholstery, the chair needed a bit more framing that the foam, batting,
and fabric could wrap around. The horizontal pieces are called “stretcher rails” and the vertical pieces are

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called “stretcher posts.” So inside the framing on the back of the chair, I added a stretcher rail along the
bottom, and then a stretcher post on each side. I attached the rail with wood glue and 2.5″ 16-gauge nails
through the outside of the chair frame into the ends of the rail, and then I attached the stretcher posts with
wood glue and pocket screws.

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I also added a stretcher rail inside the arm framing. And finally, I used my rotary sander and 100-grit
sandpaper to round the corners of the arm.

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R$ 623,92 R$ 641,52

And with that, the upholstery process could finally begin.

I started by cutting a piece of 2-inch foam to fit inside the seat area, and gluing it into place using spray

adhesive.

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Then I added jute upholstery webbing to the back, stapled to the stretcher posts. I started with the
horizontal pieces…

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And then wove in the vertical pieces.

In order to attach jute upholstery webbing, you need a webbing stretcher. The one at Joann Fabrics looks
like this, and has instructions on the back of the package. This is a necessary took if you’re going to use

jute webbing, because there’s no way to stretch it tight enough by hand.

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I also added jute webbing to the inside of the arms.

Then back to the seat, I added a piece of 1/2-inch foam over the top, glued into place with spray
adhesive. I cut this piece larger, and tucked it under the stretcher rails on the sides and back, and then

attached it to the front of the seat so that it would reach the bottom of the seat framing.

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Here’s a look at the side, with the 1/2-inch foam tucked under the stretcher rail.

And on top of that, I adhered a piece of high-loft polyester batting. It’s cut, tucked, and wrapped the same

way as the 1/2-inch foam, except that it’s longer in the front so that it can actually wrap under the seat
framing.

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And then finally, the fabric, which was stretched taut and stapled into place on the sides and back with
staples going into the top edges of the seat framing.

I left the front of the seat unfinished for now, and turned my attention to the arms and wings. Those were
covered with 1-inch foam, adhered in place with spray adhesive, and tucked into the stretcher rail on the

arm and the stretcher post on the back.

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And then on the front edges, I wrapped it around the wood and stapled it right along the edge. Working
around the curves was a challenge, and required several relief cuts in the foam to make it around the

inside curve.

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But once it was all stapled into place and trimmed, it looked like this.

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On the top corners where the wings meet the seat back, I brought the foam straight back and stapled
around the edges.

Now on the front of the arm/seat area, I pushed the seat foam/batting/fabric aside and stapled the arm
foam around the edge and at the bottom.

I trimmed off the excess, and then wrapped the 1/2-inch seat foam around the edge, right on top of the
arm foam.

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And then I wrapped the batting and fabric around to the side and stapled in place.

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In the front of the seat, I cut a slit in the fabric so that the fabric could wrap underneath the seat frame and
be stapled into place.

And then the fabric around the leg was just folded under, and stapled right on the very edge.

I’m still uncertain how I’m going to finish the bottom of my chairs. My other six dining chairs will be

wrapped and stapled on the bottom, so on these wingbacks I had considered short pleated skirts. I’m still
leaning that direction.

BUT…If you don’t want a skirt, then you would finish off the bottom of these chairs with fabric-covered
cord that gets stapled around the bottom edge of the chair. Around the legs, you simply trim off the excess

fabric, and hot glue the cord around the legs. I’ll be doing that process on my other dining chairs, so if that
doesn’t make sense now, it should make sense soon.

So at this point, the front of the chair seat looks like this…

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Next I covered the arm and wing with high-loft batting, adhered with spray adhesive and tucked into the
stretchers.

On a wingback chairs with curved wings like mine, the inside of arms and wings require two separate
pieces of fabric since there’s no way for one piece of fabric to make the inside curve. So I started with the

arm, and wrapped, tucked, and stapled that piece into place.

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On the front of the arm, I used one simple, clean fold in the fabric.

And on the front where the arm meets the seat, I folded the fabric at an angle to cover the edge of the
seat fabric.

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If I were just doing a wrap-and-staple around the bottom edge of the chair, I would have needed more

fabric. You’ll notice in the photo above that my arm fabric doesn’t quite reach the bottom edge, so there’s
not enough to wrap under and staple in place. So if you just want to wrap and staple, and not add a skirt,
then you’ll need to make sure that you’ve allowed enough fabric so that it reaches the bottom of the seat
framing and can be turned under just a bit and stapled into place at the bottom.

Here’s a look at the outside of the arm with the fabric stapled into place and trimmed.

And then using a separate piece of fabric, I covered the wing. The bottom where the wing fabric meets the
arm fabric is just folded under, and the fabric is shoved into the stretcher post and stapled into place on
the back.

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I’m not 100% happy with that indentation where the fabrics meet, but that’s the type of thing that gets
better with lots and lots of practice. I don’t do nearly enough upholstery to perfect those types of things.

But you do want to match your pattern on the two pieces if at all possible.

And here’s a look at the outside. I’m not gonna lie. This was the hardest part. Getting that fabric to form to
the inside curve on the wing was no easy task. The fabric I’m using has virtually no stretch to it, so it
required about 15 relief cuts around the inside corner. I was sure that with that many relief cuts, and that

much stretching and pulling, that the fabric was just going to start pulling apart or tearing or unraveling.
Thankfully it didn’t!

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And here’s a view of the back, where you can see the fabric (and underneath that, the foam and the
batting) shoved between the stretcher posts and stapled into place on the inside of the framing.

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And finally, the back. I used 1-inch foam, attached with spray adhesive and tucked into the stretcher
rails/posts.

03:07 / 12:09

And on the top, I wrapped and stapled just like I did on the arms/wings.

And did I mention that I completely screwed up my fabric at the top of the wings? Well, I did. Twice. Ugh.
×

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So before I finished up the back, I had to take care of those corners by adding just a bit more fabric to

cover my error.

Then I added the batting to the back with spray adhesive. It’s tucked into the stretchers, and wrapped on
the top.

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And finally, the fabric, which is also tucked into the stretchers, and stapled into place. The top is just
wrapped to the back and stapled onto the back.

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So that’s my progress so far. And before moving on to upholstering the back and sides, I had to clean up
the back a bit. I trimmed off all of the excess foam, batting, and fabric, and then stapled everything so that

it was all contained within the framing of the chair. In order to upholster the back, nothing could be

protruding beyond the framing. I did the same thing on the arms as well.

I’m really hoping can get this finished today, but no promises. Since I’m using spray adhesive, I’ve been

working in the garage, and I swear to you it’s about 125-degrees in there. I have a box fan set up, but it’s

not doing much good. So I can only be out there about 45 minutes at a time before I have to come in and
cool off. Ah, the joys of July in Texas.

UPDATE:

You can click here to see the second and final part of this project.

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40 Comments Filed Under: Dining Room

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« DIY WINGBACK DINING CHAIR – HOW TO BUILD THE CHAIR FRAME

THE MAIN BENEFIT OF BUILDING YOUR OWN DINING CHAIRS (AND TACKLING OTHER
DECORATIVE DIY PROJECTS) »
COMMENTS

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MARIANNE IN MO. SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 9:47 am

Coming along great! You are tenacious with your tasks, and don’t seem to let goofs get you down.
This job definitely requires patience, and with the heat I don’t know how you can “keep your cool”! I

would be throwing things and cussing like a sailor!

Don’t overdo in that heat, keep hydrated and take an aspirin! We can wait for the ending of this
story. Good luck!

Reply

REBECCA B SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 9:53 am

Yeah …. I think I would have been throwing a tantrum too.

Reply

REBECCA B SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 9:56 am

I like your fabric Kristi. It looks nice on that chair. Did you learn how to make that chair from a book
or website or did you actually reverse engineer this upholstered armchair? It is going to look great.

Reply

KRISTI SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:02 am

I didn’t look up any instructions on how to build a chair. I’ve rebuilt and upholstered many
chairs, so I pretty much knew the general construction of a chair. So it was a combination of

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reverse engineering a wingback chair that I already have, and then googling “wingback chair

frame,” where I found this one picture that was incredibly helpful for me.

http://www.chiselandbit.com/cgi-

script/CSUpload//upload/Wing_Back_Chair%252edb/Prototype.jpg

I have no idea why that picture is sideways. It was right-side-up on my phone.

So I didn’t follow any instructions or look for “how to build a chair” tutorials. I just looked at the
wingback chair I had, the dining room chair I had, and that photo linked above, made a few

adjustments, and went from there.

Reply

KAREN GRISSEN SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 9:59 am

Ok, I’d like to see the list of things you DON’T know how to do. I’d dare bet it’s pretty darn short.

This looks amazing as do your other chairs. It’s funny the things a person can learn when reading
a blog. For instance, I didn’t know that jute at JoAnn’s was for webbing in a chair. I thought it was

ribbon and I used it on my Christmas tree. LOL

Reply

KRISTI SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:04 am

I’ve seen photos of that. Also, I’ve seen people weave it together to make an area rug.

There are many creative uses for it, but it’s original purpose is for upholstery.

Reply

DENISEKE SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:02 am

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The fabric is perfect. I like the pocket holes, they make structures more robust.
The chair is looking great. Well done!

Reply

CAROL FRALEY SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:10 am

WOW! I’m so impressed! I don’t know that I would ever take on such a huge job. I can’t wait to see

all the chairs finished!

Reply

KRISTINE BROWN SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:10 am

Kristi you are in a class of your own, being able to build and upholster a chair. Is there an Olympic

gold metal in DIY??? That would be YOU!! I know you must get tired of hearing that! I am sure you
will feel a great sense of accomplishment completing this project!!!

Reply

STACYE SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:12 am

Is there anything you can’t do? I think you’re my hero. Girl power!

Reply

PAT SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:15 am

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Great selection of fabric for your wing backs! They will be fabulous when completed. You never

disappoint and I can’t wait to see the finished product although I would be tempted to finish up after

it cools down.

Reply

ARDITH SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:23 am

Patience, thy name is Kristi.

FYI, I’m with you on the Texas heat. Phew, it’s HOT.

Reply

DALE SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:25 am

Great job. I am impressed, I never would have the patience!!!

Reply

DEBBIE SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:33 am

Great job, especially the stripes. I’m sure that took more time meaning more time in the heat. You
might want to go to Harbor Freight and get one of the large commercial fans on a pedestal for your

garage. They run around $100 but you can get coupons for 20-25% off. Might help you to have air

moving in the garage. Just wondering – have you finished refinishing the table ? Last you were
trying to get the right color.

Reply

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WENDY SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 10:41 am

Amazing! I love watching the work you do.

Reply

MARY BEAN SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 11:24 am

AMAZING !!! YOU are amazing !! I echo most sentiments already expressed, you NEVER cease to

amaze and inspire me , tho My tasks or projects are so simple and elementary by comparison !
Would you please tell again the kind (and brand name ) of your stapler ? I love that you can staple

so tightly and close together. Do you need Herculean strength to operate it ? I findthat with
advanced age I do not have the strength I once did.

Thanks ,as always, Kristie.

Mary

Reply

LINDA MANUEL SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 2:23 pm

I think she has the porter-cable stapler – HOWEVER, I am disappointed to find out that the

recommended set does NOT have the proper stapler for upholstery after spending $200! I
purchased this recommended Porter Cable set:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NR3R6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?
ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have talked with porter cable people via email and they gave me a list of staples to use,
NONE of which I can find.

Kristi – I would really be interested in knowing exactly what staples you use, SO, I sit still trying
to figure out how I’m going to recover my grandfather’s chair. He died at 92 in 1981 and I so

want to fix this chair.

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Please help by providing the names/numbers/sizes of staples you are using.

thanks!

Can you tell me what staples you are using???

Reply

CONNIE IN NJ SAYS

July 8, 2016 at 8:57 am

Linda,
You need to order the Porter Cable staples on-line. The suggested staples are usually

listed with the staplers as additions to your order. Just google the staples/nailers that you

bought and the staples should also pop up!

Reply

KRISTI SAYS

July 6, 2016 at 10:23 pm

I actually have this narrow crown stapler.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-18-Gauge-Pneumatic-1-1-2-in-Narrow-Crown-

Stapler-Kit-NS150C/203555606

It’s Porter Cable. You certainly don’t need a lot of strength to use it. Its on the smaller side (it’s
about the size of my small 18-gauge nail gun) and the air compressor does most of the work. I

have a six-gallon pancake Porter Cable air compressor that I use for all of my pneumatic tools.

It’s small, but works great.

Reply

ALICE SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 11:34 am

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Interesting article, but I wonder…did a cat walk across your keyboard as you were typing the
subject header? This is what popped up as the topic of the email under subject: =?UTF -8?B?

RElZIFdpbmdiYWNrIERpbmluZyBDaGFpciDigJMgSG93IFRvIFVwaG9sc3RlciA=?==?UTF-8?B?

VGhlIEZyYW1lIA==?=(Part1)

Better watch out! Your cat may be trying to take over your blog!

Reply

KRISTI SAYS

July 6, 2016 at 10:26 pm

That’s strange. :-/ I have no idea why it looks like that. I checked mine (yes, I’m subscribed to

my own blog so that I can see what the emails look like ) and mine looks normal.

Hmmmm…

Reply

MRS MIKE SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 11:37 am

it looks amazing, exactly what I have to come to expect from you! Be careful with the heat though. I
know we’re under a heat advisory here in Houston. I’m not sure if it goes as far north as Waco but

your chairs aren’t worth heat stroke!

Reply

JUDI IN TINTON FALLS SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 11:42 am

Hi again! My step grandfather was a custom upholsterer, and I loved to watch him work. His hands
moved so fast, he was difficult to follow. He taught upholstery at Rikers Island (a jail in NYC)

because he believed that men who could upholster had a way to make a living and stay out of jail. I

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am tickled by your use of the word “just.” There’s no “just” in what you do. This is lovely, skilled
work. Thanks so much for the detailed descriptions and many pictures. Brava.

Reply

MELONY SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 11:47 am

Looking really good!! I took off the fabric on four dining chair seats this weekend and replaced it

with new fabric. Everyone thinks I’m amazing, and then I say “you should see this blogger who

makes her chairs from scratch!” LOL

Reply

SHARON C SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 12:44 pm

Again, WOW!!!!! The fabric is simply gorgeous and the wingback chair is looking stunning and

truely very professional looking. You are doing an amazing job Kristi and in the Texas heat too!!!

Love all the step by step progress photos and your attention to detail is incredible and is a real
credit to you. Your dining room reveal is going to be so A-MAZ-ING!!!!!

Reply

DARLENE SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 12:54 pm

OMGosh! You just made a chair from scratch

Reply

MARY ANNE LOOBY SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 1:14 pm

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Always wanted to learn how to upholster. Now I think I will just send the pieces out. Way too much

work for me to think about tackling. Can’t even imagine when and how you will get all those chairs
done, but I am sure you will. Thank God you only have to make one more form scratch. When it is

all done, you will have a very custom, one of a kind dining set. Good for you.

Reply

ELLEN W. SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 1:52 pm

[INSERT SPEECHLESS EMOTICON HERE]

Wow. Seriously. Wow!!

Reply

MARY SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 2:56 pm

Lordy, Lordy! I made an upholstered headboard once out of a striped fabric & swore off stripes

after that. How you can use it on a chair is beyond me.

Since I don’t know your email address, I hope you don’t mind me asking you a question here. I
bought a Critter paint sprayer off your recommendation. But I was wondering if you use any other

type of paint sprayer. Do you use anything bigger?

Reply

KRISTI SAYS

July 6, 2016 at 10:34 pm

Yes! For big projects, like spraying walls and such, I use the Wagner Flexio 590. I bought it at

Home Depot, and I love it! You could even use it for painting the exterior of your house, and
other large projects like that.

Reply

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KATHLEEN CONERY SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 3:44 pm

This is absolutely fascinating. Thank you so much for taking the extra time to document, and then

explain, the step by step. I doubt that I will ever want to do one of these bad boys myself, but I love

learning the process!

Reply

TRISH SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 3:45 pm

When I grow up I want to be Kristi….

Reply

RENE' SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 6:32 pm

Totally in love with the fabric you chose and the chair too!

Reply

SUSAN DAVIS SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 7:01 pm

Impressive to the Moon! Very, very nice!

Reply

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GUERRINA SAYS

July 5, 2016 at 8:12 pm

I find this process amazing! Will have to send you a pic of a chair that needs reupholstering to

have your suggestions. It totally intimidates me! Following closely, Super Woman!

Reply

DESIGNDREAMER SAYS

July 6, 2016 at 12:55 am

OMG! I can’t believe the things you do! I once took an upholstery class and we made a footstool
from scratch (about 24 years ago) so I have a minimal understanding of what you’re doing. But

gosh, I wonder how many 100’s of $s it would cost to have a chair custom built like the one you’re

making. . . . .
I hear you about the heat. Although I think it was a tad cooler today 106 maybe?

Reply

JUDYMAE SAYS

July 6, 2016 at 1:06 pm

Wow Kristi! And in this heat, too. Have you considered opening the garage door to your house and

blowing cold air into the garage with your fan? A sheet of plywood or something behind you would

focus the air closer to you. When we first moved into our house there were not enough vents
upstairs to make it cool enough so we put a fan at the bottom of the stairs to blow cold air up and it

worked.

Reply

KRISTI SAYS

July 6, 2016 at 10:39 pm

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Yesterday and today, I actually set up one of our extra window unit air conditioners in there,

with the garage door open a bit and the A/C backed up to the door. Then I used plywood to

cover the rest of the area where the garage door was open, and stuffed scrap batting and
foam into the cracks. It worked! The garage never got cool, but it was definitely tolerable. I

would guess it was about 85 degrees in there during the hottest part of the day, which is warm

but not miserably hot.

Reply

BRENDA TURNER SAYS

July 7, 2016 at 8:14 pm

To get rid of the wrinkle you always give a hard pull at the intersection of the wrinkle. Use some
fitting pins to keep it pulled down then blind stitch your pieces together.

Reply

BRENDA TURNER SAYS

July 7, 2016 at 8:17 pm

Kristi, to get rid of the wrinkle where the two pieces of fabric meet you need to do a hard pull down

from the middle of the wrinkle on the bottom. Keep in place with fitting pins then blind stitch your
two pieces of fabric together to keep the tension from the bottom.

Reply

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HI THERE! I’M KRISTI…

I'm an interior decorator-

turned-blogger, and a

DIY fanatic. I live with my

husband, Matt, our dog,

Cooper, and our cat,

Peeve, in our 1948 fixer

upper that I'm

remodeling pretty much by myself. Read more >>.

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