Geography SBA

Leah Blanc, Gianna Horsham, Yujing Wu

Introduction:
This SBA will investigate coastal features found at Las Cuevas Bay, Trinidad. Due to its location on the North
coast of the island, Las Cuevas is impacted by the North-East Trade Winds that dictate the type of weather, which will
influence wave action and processes, encouraging the formation of a variety of coastal features along the well-established
bay.
As a result of changing wave type (constructive and destructive waves) and wave processes (wave refraction and
longshore drift, abrasion, and solution), deposition (via constructive waves which create depositional features such as
beach and berms), erosion (via destructive waves which create erosional features such as cliffs and caves) and
transportation taking place, coastal features may form varying from one place to another along the bay (in size, shape,
texture, and other physical attributes).
Through this study, we intend to demonstrate how wave action and processes may lead to this.
Aim:
To discuss how changing wave action and processes have led to the creation and development of coastal features
found at Las Cuevas Bay, North Coast, Trinidad.
Las Cuevas
Methodology:
When: Study conducted on Friday 28th May 2022 (arrived at 8:20am, left at 12:30pm)

Where: Las Cuevas Bay, Trinidad (located approximately 41º Northeast of Port of Spain, in the North of Trinidad along
the North Coast Road, to the right of Maracas Bay, and South of the Caribbean Sea, between Las Cuevas Headland and
Abercrombie Headland). (see Map 2, Page , Map 1, Page , Figure 1, Page )

How: The form 4-year group was divided into smaller groups (to comply with COVID-19 guidelines) and various data
was collected (wave processes, wind direction, wave frequency, and longshore drift) (see Table 1, Page ).

TABLE 1: WAVE PROCESSES RECORDED AT LAS CUEVAS BAY

Wave Process Procedure Plate

Wave Height When the water is calm, with no waves, a metre rule is held in the water
vertically at a point where it touches the seabed (base height). When the
sky clouds
wave crest hits the metre rule, that new reading is recorded.
Wave height = (new height – base height)/2. This method is repeated
Las Cuevas boats
ten times for each of the three sites (west, middle, east).
headland
sea
students measuring
wave wave height

students recording data

beach
Plate 1: Students Measure Wave Height

Wave Frequency One point of the sea is observed and the number of waves that crash or
pass that point over a period of one minute is recorded. This method is sky clouds
repeated ten times for each of the three sites (west, middle, east), and sea
the average value is calculated.
wave
students recording
beach
wave frequency

Plate 2: Students Measure Wave Frequency

Wave Angle Wave Angle sea
wave
Teacher stood perpendicular to the coast, facing North using an Student counting
electronic compass and examined the direction in which the waves ping-pong balls
approached the coastline until they reached the beach. This method drifting with water
was repeated at every site (west, middle, east).

Longshore Drift ping-pong balls moving in direction

Longshore Drift
Thirteen ping pong balls are dropped into the water at the shore and of longshore drift
are allowed to move freely for three minutes. This method is repeated
three times at each site (west, middle, east). The direction in which beach
most of the ping pong balls moved was recorded and the average was
calculated. This method was repeated at all three sites (west, middle,
east). (see Plate 3, Page ) Plate 3: Student Measures Longshore Drift

Wind Direction An electronic compass was used to locate the North position. A sky clouds
handmade wind vane was used, and the arrow was pointed to North; Las Cuevas headland
let the arrow blow freely for 2 mins, rest for a min, and then let the sea
wind blow the wind vane again. The average direction was recorded.
Repeat the process three times at all three sites (west, middle, east).

wind vane

Student measuring wind beach

direction

Plate 4: Student Measures Wind Direction

Photographs were collected (Phone cameras were used to photograph the physical features) and a sketch map was created
(two students from the year group were selected to draw a sketch of the area including the access point to the site, and
physical and human features. These maps were then displayed, and each group was asked to draw and label their own
sketch map). Data was also collected on the features (erosional and depositional) found at Las Cuevas (see Table 2,
Page ).

TABLE 2: DATA COLLECTION OF COASTAL FEATURES AT LAS CUEVAS

Erosional Features
Caves, Blowholes, Notches,
Arches, Cliffs, Stacks, Stumps
Data Collection Plate
A walkthrough of the area was done, and observations, measurements,
and pictures were taken of erosional coastal features.
Photographs taken; features measured using measuring tape. Shapes and
sizes were observed and noted.
Student with average height of 5 feet and multiplying to find rock
approximate height of features too tall for measuring tape.

Headlands, Wave Cut Platform Photographs were taken and visual observations were made and notch
recorded.
metre rule downward
sloping cliff

Student measuring
height of notch beach

Plate 5: Student Measuring Height of Notch

Depositional Features Data Collection Plate

Gradient of Beach, Beach
Width
Composition/ Materials/
Pebble Classification
While walking, the depositional features were photographed, observed,
and measured.
sky
Gradient of Beach
clouds
Poles were placed two metres apart from the shoreline to the back of the
beach. A string was attached securely to the top of each pole and a
handmade clinometer was used to measure the gradient of the beach sea Students measuring
Abercrombie
beach gradient and
between each two poles by recording the angle measurement that the headland
width
string, with a weight at the end, attached to the clinometer settled on .
This process was repeated at each site (west, middle, east) (see plate 6,
page 5).
beach
Beach Width
A measuring tape was laid across the beach, from the shoreline to the poles measuring tape
back of the beach and the length of the beach was recorded. This was
repeated at each of the three sites (west, middle, east).
Plate 6: Students Measure Gradient of Beach
Twenty pebbles were randomly collected at the foreshore, middle, and
bag of
backshore at each site (west, middle, east) and were sorted and beach
examined in the lab using a Power’s Scale index and slope table (see sediment
Appendix). Pebbles were numbered 1-20, and photographed (see plate
7, page 5).

Beach Sediment
Sand samples from each section (west, middle, east) of the bay were
collected from the foreshore, middle shore, and backshore. They were Students collecting
placed in nine zip lock bags and brought to school. The samples were beach sediment
allowed to dry for two weeks and then weighed (200g) and placed into a beach
manual sifting sieve. The sieve was vigorously shaken side to side for
approximately five to six minutes. The segments were emptied into
dishes, weighed on a scale, and converted to a percentage, and a table Plate 7: Students Collect Beach Sediment
was created. Sample

Wave Processes
The weather at Las Cuevas was partially overcast (approximately Thick cumulonimbus clouds

6/8th’s cloud coverage). This is due to the presence of thick, cumulus clouds.
Additionally, there was slight precipitation (occurring as the afternoon portion
of the experiment commenced). Las Cuevas
Headland
sea
wave
Wave Height

The wave height decreased moving eastwards (averaging 87.6cm in the West, 83.6cm in the Middle, and the
shortest waves averaging 41.4cm in the East). The Overall Average wave height was 70.9cm (the average wave in the
West was 16.7cm taller than the Overall Average and waves in the Middle were generally 12.7cm taller than the Overall
Average, whereas waves in the East were on average 29.5cm shorter than the Overall Average). Overall, the waves were
shorter than 1m (100cm), indicating that the waves were likely constructive waves.

Wave Frequency

Waves generally approached the shore with decreasing frequency nearer to the Eastward part of the bay (waves
approached with an average frequency of 8.1 waves per minute in the West, 7.2 waves per minute in the Middle, and 6.5
waves per minute in the East). The Overall Average was 7.3 waves per minute (only in the West did waves approach the
shore with greater frequency than the overall average). Generally, waves approached the shore at less than 10 waves per
minute (additionally the waves were less than 1m tall), confirming the waves were constructive.
Longshore Drift
Longshore drift was recorded generally leaning in a Westerly direction (wind direction was a factor which
influenced this as sediments were carried in a predominantly Westerly direction, where they are deposited across the bay,
see Table 5, page … and Plate 7, page 5). The overall average for Longshore drift (Longshore drift was undefined, thus
there is no clear direction) a Westerly direction (dominant direction, see Table 3, page ...). This could potentially influence
the wave angle, wave frequency and wave height (the areas of presiding wind will experience more erosive power,
leading to more erosional features and wave processes such as wave refraction).

TABLE 3: THE OVERALL AVERAGE LONGSHORE DRIFT FOR WEST, MIDDLE AND EAST
FORESHORE
Reading West Middle East
1 West West East
2 West West West
3 West West East
Average West West East
Overall Average- the overall average is undefined; there is no clear direction, however the values lean toward a more
westerly direction

Wave Angle

The wave angle decreased from West to East, peaking in the Middle (the East foreshore wave angle averaged
299°, the Middle foreshore, 355° and the West foreshore, 351°, see Table 4, page …). This indicates a dominant slant of
waves in the Westerly direction (towards Las Cuevas headland), signifying little refraction (of waves) from the Middle (as
the waves approach at 355º, closest to 360º, North) and slight refraction (of waves) from the West and East foreshore
(towards the Las Cuevas Headland). Therefore, longshore drift is affected by wave angle (along with its features such as
the creation of notches and wave cut platforms).

TABLE 4: THE OVERALL AVERAGE WAVE ANGLE FOR WEST, MIDDLE AND EAST FORESHORE
Reading West Middle East
Angle 351º 355º 299º
Overall Average- 305º
Bibliography:

(2022), Caribbean Certificate Atlas (3rd ed.), Oxford: Macmillan Publishers Ltd.

Davis, R., & FitzGerald, D. (2004). Beaches and Coasts. UK: Blackwell Science Ltd.

London, N., & Senior, M. (1991). Principles of geography for CXC. London: Longman.

Ross, S., Rae, A., Clarke, M., Nurse, H., & Rocke, J. (2017). CXC Study Guide Geography for CSEC. Oxford University
Press.

Wilson, M. (2016). The Caribbean Environment. Oxford: Macmillan Publishers Ltd.

(Wlison, 2016)

Trinidad and Tobago. 1:150 000, sheet 2013.

Coastal Features - Geo for CXC. (2022). Retrieved 25 August 2022, from https://geoforcxc.com/water/coastal-features/

Davis, R. (2022). coastal landforms | Description, Formation, & Types. Retrieved 9 September 2022, from
https://www.britannica.com/science/coastal-landform

Las Cuevas Bay beach. (2022). Retrieved 25 August 2022, from

https://1001beach.com/en/the_caribbean/trinidad_and_tobago/las_cuevas_bay

Form 4 Geography Class.

Glossary:

Arch- An Arch is an opening through a headland, formed by wave erosion or solution creating a hollowed out
opening at the base of the headland which leaves a bridge of rock over the water or sand. Also known as
marine arch; marine bridge; sea bridge.

Bay- A Bay is a broad inlet on a coast where the land curves inwards.

Beach- A beach is a depositional feature comprising of sand, silt, and other sediments as well as pebbles,
located between the high and low tide levels.

Berms- A berm is a narrow shelf or terrace of pebbles, sand or shingle deposited on the beach by storm waves,
Tropical Storms and or very high tides. Also known as Pebble Beach or a Storm Beach.

Blowholes- If a joint extends from the end of the tunnel to the top of the cliff, this may eventually enlarge and
open at the top of the cliff or headland creating a Blowhole through which water or air may be ejected at regular
or irregular intervals.

Caves- Caves are circular tunnels found at the base of headlands.

Cliffs- A Cliff is a piece of highland with, usually, a steep face of rock, found along the coasts.

Coastal Features- These refer to any of the relief features present along any coast. They are the result of a
combination of processes, sediments, and the geology of the coast itself.

Constructive Waves- Constructive waves are waves that are low energy and have stronger swashes than
backwashes. This resulted in the build-up of material on the shoreline, meaning that any material being carried
by the sea is washed up and begins to build up along the coastline. Thus, it is associated with depositional
features.

Deposition- Deposition is the laying down of sediment carried by wind, flowing water, the sea or ice. Sediment
can be transported as pebbles, sand and mud, or as salts dissolved in water.

Depositional Features- A depositional feature or landform is a landform that is created from glacial deposition.
This is when a glacier carries some sediment, which is then placed (deposited) somewhere else. This could be a
large group of glacial sediment or a single significant material.

Destructive Waves- Destructive waves occur when wave energy is high and the wave has travelled over a long
fetch. They have a stronger backwash than swash and they have a short wavelength and are high and steep.
They tend to erode the coast and as such are associated with erosional features along with stormy weather.

Erosion- Erosion is the geological process in which materials are worn away and transported by natural forces
such as wind or water.

Erosional Features- Erosional features are land surfaces shaped by the action of erosion, especially by running
water.

Headland- A Headland is a piece of high land usually with a cliff jutting into the sea.

Longshore Drift- Longshore drift is the movement of sediment on a beach or along the shore in one dominant
direction.
Stacks- A stack is a geological landform consisting of a steep and often vertical column or columns of rock in
the sea near a coast, formed by wave erosion. Stacks are formed over time by wind and water, processes of
coastal geomorphology.

Stumps- Stumps are eroded remains of a sea stack, often looking like a lump of rock sticking up from its
surroundings. It is the last stage in the process that starts with a weakness in a cliff that develops into a cave,
then an arch, a stack, and finally, a stump.

Wave Cut Platform- Wave Cut Platform or marine built terrace is a rocky marine platform worn by wave
erosion and ocean currents.

Wave Frequency- Wave frequency refers to the number of waves per minute.

Wave Height- The wave height is the distance from the crest to the trough.

Wave Refraction- Wave refraction takes place when there is a change or bending in the direction of the wave
front from its original direction, as waves approach a shelving beach.

Weather- Weather is the state of the atmosphere, including temperature, atmospheric pressure, wind, humidity,
precipitation, and cloud cover at a particular time and place.

Wind Direction- Wind direction is the direction from which the wind is blowing.

Notches- Notches are incisions made by wave action at the waterline along exposed windward coasts but along
sheltered leeward coasts, they are more likely to be caused by bioerosion.
Appendix:

Wave processes

TABLE 5: WIND DIRECTION READINSG AT LAS CUEVAS BAY

Reading West Middle East
1 West West West
2 West North West West
3 North West North West
Average West West West
Overall Average- West

TABLE 6: WAVE HEIGHT READINGS AT LAS CUEVAS BAY

READING WEST MIDDLE EAST

#/cm

Base 65 68 65
Height

Height New Wave Height New Wave Height New Wave

Height Height Height Height Height Height
(New (New (New
(Height – (Height (Height
Height Height Height
Base x – x – x
reading) 2) Base 2) Base 2)
reading) reading)

1 120 55 110 1 120 55 110 1 120

2 135 70 140 2 135 70 140 2 135

3 110 45 90 3 110 45 90 3 110

4 92 27 54 4 92 27 54 4 92

5 94 29 58 5 94 29 58 5 94

6 80 15 30 6 80 15 30 6 80

7 110 45 90 7 110 45 90 7 110

8 77 12 24 8 77 12 24 8 77

9 160 95 190 9 160 95 190 9 160

10 110 45 90 10 110 45 90 10 110

Average 108.8 43.8 87.6 Average 108.8 43.8 87.6 Average 108.8

OVERALL AVERAGE: 69.53

 TABLE 7: THE OVERALL AVERAGE WAVE FREQUENCY FOR WEST, MIDDLE AND
EAST FORESHORE AT LAS CUEVAS
READING/MINUTE WEST MIDDLE EAST
1 9 11 7
2 7 9 5
3 8 9 5
4 9 6 5
5 8 9 6
6 10 7 7
7 10 5 7
8 7 5 8
9 7 6 8
10 6 5 7
Average 8.1 7.2 6.5
Overall Average: 7.26

TABLE 8: THE OVERALL AVERAGE BEACH GRADIENT FOR WEST, MIDDLE AND
EAST FORESHORE AT LAS CUEVAS
Distance/m West Middle East
0-2 2 1 1
2-4 4 2 4
4-6 2 3.5 3
6-8 3 1.5 2.5
8-10 3 0.5 5
10-12 4 3.5 2.5
12-14 5 2 5
14-16 4.5 2 2.5
16-18 5 2 2
18-20 2 1 1
20-22 1.5 3.5 5
22-24 3 1.5 1.5
24-26 2 1.5
26-28 2 2
28-30 1 3.5
30-32 3.5 0.5
32-34 2.5 3.5
34-26 1.5 2
36-38 0.5 2
38-40 1 1.5
40-42 1.5 2
42-44 3 1
44-46 0
46-48 1
48-50 -2
50-52 0
Average 2.61 1.63 2.91
Overall Average: 2.38