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Briggs and Stratton Dixon Echo Generac Honda Husqvarna Kawasaki Kohler MTD Snapper Tecumseh

1. Home
2. DIY
3. DIY for Dixon

Dixon Z-Drive Transaxle Overhaul and Adjustment

Manual
DIY for Dixon

Dixon Z-Drive Transaxle Overhaul and Adjustment Procedures

Z-Drive Transaxle
Overhaul & Adjustment Procedures

DIXON ZTR
1994 to 2003 Models:
1001, 2301, 3014, 3303, 3304, 3362, 3363,
4423, 4424, 4425 and 4426
Dixon Z Drive Transaxle

Table of Contents
Dixon Z-Drive Transaxle

Variation of Rubber Springs

Front View of Transaxle

Side (Left) View of Transaxle

Removal of Transaxle From Unit

Disassembly of Transaxle

Drive Cone Replacement

Discup Replacement

Reassembly of Transaxle
 Bench Adjustments of Transaxle

Installation of Transaxle Into Unit

Running Adjustments of Transaxle

Dixon Z-Drive Transaxle

Variations of Rubber Spring Assemblies by Date of Manufacture

Fig. 7 Rear View 1999 Initial

Fig. 6 Rear View 1995-1998 (4
Fig. 5 Rear View 1994 (8 washers) Production
washers)
(8 washers)
Dixon Z Drive Transaxle

Fig. 9 Rear View 1999 proposed

Fig. 8 Rear View June 1999 to present (3
production
washers & 2 cups)
(2 washers & 4 cups)

Fig. 4 Front View of Transaxle

Fig. 3 Side View of Transaxle

Transaxle Removal
Estimated Time Required: 25 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) 7/16" combination wrench
(1) 9/16" combination wrench
(1) 3/4" combination wrench
(1) 11/16" combination wrench
(1) 9/16" socket
(1) 12" socket drive extension
(1) ratchet drive
(1) shop hammer
(1) mechanical punch (drift)
(1) needle nose pliers or spring tool

NOTE: A lift or work table is not required but very helpful.

DISCONNECT THE GROUND WIRE

FROM BATTERY!
 Figure 10

1. Using a 1/2" socket, 12" extension and

ratchet, loosen the drive belt keeper located
to the left of the transaxle.

Figure 11

2. Push/pull the drive belt tensioner away from

the drive belt.

NOTE: The 42" deck has two idler pulley's.

Only the top pulley must be moved.

Figure 12

Remove the drive belt from the transaxle

3.
drive pulley.

Figure 13

4. Using a 9/16" socket, 12" extension and

ratchet, remove four bolts from underside of
mower which hold the transaxle in place.

NOTE: The belt tensioning idler spring

partially covers bolt #2 and must be pushed
to one side in order to remove the bolt.

Figure 14

Remove the seat assembly by doing the

5.
following.

a. Using a 1/2" wrench, remove the seat rod

nut located on the right (left) side of the
mower.

NOTE: The seat rod nut may have been

installed on the left side of the machine.

Figure 15

b. Disconnect the seat switch.

NOTE: Use special care during reassembly

to insure that the connection plug is placed
between the seat base and the seat frame.
This prevents the cable from being pinched
or caught up in the moving parts of the
transaxle.
 Figure 16

Remove the seat rod by pulling it toward

c.
the right (left) side of the seat.

d. Remove the seat

NOTE: The seat rod may have been

installed from right to left.

Figure 17

6. Using needle nosed pliers, disconnect the

brake link from the right side of the
transaxle.

NOTE: On models built prior to July 17,

1996, remove the clips from both the left
and right side of the brake shaft. See
Figure 19 for the location of the two clips.

Figure 18

Location of roll pins on a three piece brake

shaft.

Figure 19

Location of roll pins and clips on one piece

brake shafts.

NOTE: The one piece brake shaft was used

on mowers built prior to 17 July 1996 and is
a solid shaft rather than a tube as is used on
later applications.

Figure 20

Location of roll pin on right side (1 of 4) on

units built prior to 17 July, 1996.

Figure 21

Location of roll pin on left side (1 of 4) on

units built prior to 17 July 1996.

Figure 22

7. Using a shop hammer and mechanics punch

(drift), drive the roll pins out of the cross
shaft.
 8. If the mower has a one piece shaft and slide
the cross shaft to the left side of the chassis
and allow it to drop downward out of the
way.

Figure 24

NOTE: Alternate location for brake shaft

placement. Use which ever works best for
your application.

NOTE: Field experience has shown that it is

not necessary to remove the fenders on
models built prior to 17 July 1996, although
earlier instructions suggested their removal.

Figure 25

9. Using a 9/16" socket and ratchet, disconnect

the ball joints from the transaxle (ball joints
will stay attached to the drive levers in the
chassis).

Figure 26
10. Push the transaxle toward the front of the
chassis and remove the primary chains from
the drive sprockets.

Figure 26

11. Lift the transaxle out of the chassis.

Disassembly of Transaxle
Estimated Time Required: 12 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) 7/32" allen wrench
(1) 7/16" combination wrench
(1) 9/16" combination wrench
(1) 11/16" combination wrench
(2) 3/4" combination wrenches
(1) needle nose pliers or spring hook

Figure 28
1. Place the transaxle onto the transmission
base plate (PN 539116708) and bolt it down
with at least two bolts.

Figure 29
2. Loosen the 7/16" lock nuts at the top of each
rubber spring assembly.

Figure 30

3. Loosen the 3/4" jam nuts on top of each

rubber spring assembly.
 Figure 31

Pull the rubber spring assemblies away from

4.
each cradle.

Figure 32

5. Using the 11/16" combination wrench,

loosen the pivot bolt lock nuts.

Figure 33

6. Using the needle nosed pliers or the spring

hook, remove the cradle spring from the
cradle spring holders.

Figure 34

7. Using the 7/32" allen wrench, back off the

pivot bolts until they are clear of the
bushings on each cradle.

Figure 35

8. Using a 9/16" wrench, remove the nuts from

the top and bottom of each roller plate
located at the front of the transmission (four
nuts in all).

Figure 36

9. Remove the upper rubber tension springs.

Figure 37

10. Using a 9/16" combination wrench, loosen

the jam nuts at the bottom of each neutral
rod.

Figure 38

11. Using a 9/16" combination wrench, unscrew

the neutral assemblies from the base by
turning the adjustment nut at the top of the
neutral assemblies.

Figure 39

Remove the cradles from the center

12.
assembly.
Drive Cone Replacement
Estimated Time Required: 45 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) 15/16" socket
(1) ratchet, breaker bar or air wrench
(1) 15/16" combination wrench
(1) Torque wrench calibrated in ft/lbs
(1) bearing puller or hammer and punch
(1) Loctite Anti-Seize

Disassembly of the Drive Cone Unit

Figure 40

(1) Cone Shaft Lock Nut PN 3388
superceded to PN 539115670
(2) Cone Drive Shaft PN 5320 superceded
to 539116022
(3) Upper Drive Cone PN 5109
superceded to 539115957
(4) Long Keys PN 5070 superceded to
539115950
(5) Upper Bearing PN 5343
superceded to 539116040
(6) Long Spacer PN 5316 superceded
to 539116018
(7) Lower Drive Cone PN 5109
superceded to 539115957
(8) Middle Spacer PN 5317
superceded to 539116019
(9) Lower Bearing PN 5343
superceded to 539116040
(10) Short Spacer PN 2164
superceded to 539115329
(11) Drive Pulley PN 5326
superceded to 539116027
(12) Short Key PN 3385 superceded
to 539115667

Figure 41

1. Using a 15/16" socket, remove the top nut

from the drive cones assembly. If air tools
are not available, the bottom of the shaft can
be held in place using a 15/16" open end
wrench. (This allows the drive pulley to
remain attached to the shaft.)

NOTE: If the bottom nut releases first,

reverse the shaft during reassembly, as both
ends of the shaft are identical.

NOTE: The cone shaft should slide out of

lower cone, bearing and cone frame,
however, tapping the shaft through the upper
cone may be necessary if the cone has seized
to the shaft. If the cones cannot be removed
by use of penetrating oil and tapping the
shaft, it will be necessary to cut the shaft in
order to remove and replace it.

Figure 42

Remove the upper and lower bearings from

2.
the cone frame.

NOTE: If the bearings do not slip out easily,

they may be removed by use of a bearing
driver or hammer and punch.

Inspect the bearings for wear. Inspect the

3.
spacers for burrs, wear or cracks.

Note: The bearings are identical and may be

reversed without harm.
4. Inspect the drive cones for uneven wear,
rough spots, glazing or any other signs of
wear or damage. See the troubleshooting
guide for examples of normal and abnormal
wear.

5. Inspect the keys, key ways and shaft for

burring or signs of wear or damage.

Replace worn, damaged or defective parts as

6.
needed.

Re-Assembly of the Drive Cone Unit

Figure 33

Insert/press both upper and lower bearings

1.
into the frame.

NOTE: The bearings may require a press fit

into the frame. This can be accomplished
with a press, hammer and drift or the use of
chilled bearings into a warm frame. Do not
use any lubrication.

Figure 44

2. Coat the cone shaft with Loctite Anti-Seize

NOTE: Ensure that the anti-seize is sprayed

on the shaft only. Anti-seize will
(ruin/destroy/etc) the drive cones and discups
if it is sprayed onto the drive surfaces or any
part that comes into contact with the drive
surfaces.

Figure 45

3. Install the drive pulley and short key (PN

5070 superceded to 539115950) onto the
cone shaft.

Figure 46

4. Reassemble the drive cone assembly by

sliding the small black spacer onto the shaft
and then inserting the shaft through the
lower bearing in the bottom of the cone
frame.

Figure 47

Slide the middle sized, zinc coated spacer

5.
onto the cone shaft.
 Figure 48

6. Slide the lower drive cone, tapered end

down, on the cone shaft. Align the key ways
and insert the key.

Figure 49

Slide the large zinc coated spacer onto the

7.
cone shaft.

Figure 50

8. Install the upper cone and key.

Figure 51

9. While holding the bottom nut with a 15/16"

wrench, tighten the top nut to a torque valve
of 75 ft/lbs.

Discup Replacement
Estimated Time Required: 23 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) 15/16" wrench or 15/16" socket with ratchet drive
(1) 1/2" wrench or 1/2" socket with ratchet drive
(1) Torque wrench calibrated in ft/lbs
(1) Loctite Anti-Sieze

Note: A bench vise is not required but helpful if used carefully.

Figure 52

Figure 53

Cradle
(3) Locknut (6) Bearings
Assembly PN
PN 3388 PN 5343
5330
superceded to superceded to
superceded to
539115670 539116040
539116031
(4) Sprocket (7) Spacers PN
(1) Cradle PN
PN 8413 5068
5322
superceded to superceded to
superceded to
539116885 539115948
539116024
(5) Long Key (8) Discup
(2) Discup PN
PN 5070 Shaft PN 5332
5329
superceded to superceded to
superceded to
539115950 539116033
539119543

Disassembly of the Discup Unit

Figure 54
1. Place cradle into bench vice, using the front
(neutral spring arm) end.

2. Using a 15/16" wrench or socket, remove

the discup lock nut.

Figure 55

3. If a set bolt is present, use a 1/2" wrench or

socket to remove the set bolt.

Figure 56

4. Slide the shaft out of the discup and cradle.

Remove the bearings and spacers from the

5.
cradle.

Inspect the bearings and spacers for wear,

6.
damage, etc.

Figure 57

Inspect the roller and pin for smooth

7.
operation.

NOTE: The roller and pin are not a tight fit,

but they must not bind when turned.

Figure 58

Inspect the pivot bolt and bushings for wear

8.
and damage.

Figure 59

9. Inspect the discup for wear, cracks, rough

spots on wear surfaces, etc.

Figure 60

10. Inspect the sprocket for wear.

11. Replace any defective parts.

Reassembly of the Discup Assembly

1. Coat the shaft with Loctite Anti-Seize

2. Place/press the bearings into the cradle.

 Figure 61

3. Slide the shaft through the inner bearing

and inner spacer in the cradle.

Figure 62

4. Place the key into the discup keyway.

Figure 63

Slide the discup shaft through the discup,

5.
outer spacer and

Figure 64

6. Slide the sprocket onto the shaft and align

the keyways in the shaft and sprocket.
Insert the key into the aligned keyways.

NOTE: The keys used for the discup and

sprocket (PN 5070 superceded to
539115950) are interchangeable.

Screw the lock nut onto the shaft and torque

7.
to 50 ft/lbs.

Figure 65

NOTE: Lock nuts with a complete nylon

inner ring may be used. Lock nuts with
single nylon button should be replaced.

Reassembly of Transaxle
Estimated Time Required: 12 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) Needle nose pliers or spring hook
(1) 7/32" allen wrench
(1) 9/16" combination wrench

Figure 66

1. Reattach the cradle springs to the cradle.

Figure 67

Place the cradle assemblies into the center

2.
section.

Figure 68

3. Using a 7/32" allen wrench, screw the pivot

bolts far enough into the pivot bolt bushings
 to hold the cradles in place.

Figure 69

4. Screw each neutral assembly stud into the

center section casting until the bottom of the
neutral rod assembly is flush with the bottom
of the transaxle base plate.

Figure 70

5. Using a 9/16" combination wrench, tighten

the lock nut on each neutral assembly.

Figure 71

6. Using needle nose pliers or a spring hook,

reattach the cradle springs to the cradle
spring holder.

Figure 72

7. Using a 9/16" combination wrench, install the

roller plates. Tighten the top and bottom
nuts of the roller plates equally until a slight
compression of the rubber tension springs is
achieved.

Transaxle Bench Adjustments

Estimated Time Required: 50 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) 7/16" combination wrench
(1) 9/16" combination wrench
(1) 11/16" wrench
(2) 3/4" combination wrench
(1) 7/32" allen wrench
(1) adjustment gauge (PN 539116707 and PN 539115692 if early 1999 - present)
(1) .050" feeler gauge

Figure 73

1. Rubber spring assembly gap adjustment

(1995 - early 1999)
1A. Rubber spring assembly gap adjustment
(early 1999 - present)
2. Neutral spring assembly gap adjustment
3. 90 degree gauge for cradle height
adjustment
4. Mounting hole for cradle height adjustment
5. 90 degree gauge for roller plate adjustment

Roller and roller plate adjustment and

discup alignment
 Figure 74

1. Using a 9/16" combination wrench, remove

the top neutral springs.

2. Using a 9/16" combination wrench, back off

the bottom neutral springs completely.

Figure 76

3. Using a 7/16" combination wrench, loosen

the lock nut on top of each rubber spring
assembly.

Figure 77

4. Using two 3/4" combination wrenches,

loosen the jam nuts on top of each rubber
spring assembly.

Figure 78

Slide the rubber spring assemblies off the

5.
rear of the cradles.

Figure 79

6. Using the alignment gauge, check both

roller plates to ensure that they are
perpendicular to the base. Adjustment is
made by using a 9/16" wrench to loosen or
tighten the attachment nuts on the top and
bottom of each roller plate.

Figure 80 Discup not aligned

Figure 81 Procedure for alignment

Figure 82 Discup aligned

7. Using the alignment gauge, check the

discups to ensure that they are
perpendicular to the back edge of the center
section. Adjustment is made by using a
7/32" allen wrench to turn the pivot bolt.

Figure 83

8. Bolt the alignment gauge to the front of the

cradle, where double ball joint screws into
the casting. The short leg of the alignment
 gauge should rest on the base plate.

NOTE: This ensures that the next step is

completed in the correct neutral position.

Figure 84

9. Grasp the front of both cradle assemblies

and pull inward in order to check the gap
between the rollers and roller plate. The
correct gap is .050". If the gap is too tight,
loosen the pivot bolt and top and bottom
attachment nuts on the roller plates. Turn
each nut one flat in ratio of 1:1:1. If the gap
is too loose, tighten the attachment nuts and
pivot bolt in the same manner.

Repeat this procedure on the opposite

cradle.

Figure 85

Remove the height gauge from the front of

10.
the cradle.

11. When the gap is set correctly, use an 11/16"

combination wrench to tighten both the
inner and outer jam nuts on the pivot bolts
while holding the pivot bolt in place with
7/32" allen wrench.

At this point:
- The roller plates should be perpendicular
to the base.
- The discups should be perpendicular to
the back of the center section casting
- The gap setting between the rollers and
roller plates should be .050" with the
discups held against the cones.

Rubber Spring Assembly and Pre-Load

Adjustment

Figure 86

1. Push the rubber spring assemblies back into

the fork at the rear of the cradle castings.
The rod end must be perpendicular to the L-
Rod, and the rubber spring assemblies must
run parallel to the rear of the center section.

Figure 87

2. Turn the rubber spring mount tube

clockwise until the lower rubber spring is
held tightly against the bottom of the cradle.
 Figure 88

3. Set the rubber spring pre-load by tightening

the lower jam nut against the upper rubber
spring. Hold the bottom of the rubber
spring mount tube to keep it from turning.
Tighten the lower jam nut until the pre-load
gauge sandwiches the washers outside the
rubber springs.

NOTE: On transaxles build after June 1999,

it is necessary to use the gauge shown at
position 1A, page 38, to set the correct pre-
load.

Figure 89

4. Once the proper pre-load has been set, lock

the 3/4" jam nuts together on the rubber
spring mount tube.

Centering the Discups on the Cones

Figure 90

1. Place the cradle height gauge at the front of

the cradle where the double ball joints
screw into the casting.

The cradle should sit lower at the front. If

the cradle casting sits higher than the bolt
hole in the height gauge, repeat steps 2
through 4 of the Rubber Spring Assembly
and Pre-Load Adjustment Instructions.

Figure 91

2. Turn the two jam nuts on the top of the

rubber spring assembly clockwise until a
bolt installed through the hole in the height
gauge can be screwed into the cradle
casting. The bottom edge of the gauge must
be setting flat on the transmission base
plate.

Repeat this procedure on the opposite

cradle.

3. Turn the drive cones slowly. As the cones

turn, slowly tighten or loosen the jam nuts
on the top of the rubber spring assembly
until the cones turn free with no contact
with the discups.

Remove the alignment gauge from the

4.
cradle.

Bench Neutral Adjustment

Figure 92
 1. Bring the lower neutral spring up the
neutral rod until the neutral gauge can be
slid between the jam nut on the neutral rod
and the adjusting nut on the bottom of the
spring.

Figure 93
2. Insure that the neutral stud is centered from
side to side in the hole in the cradle casting.

NOTE: If the stud is off center it should be

straightened or replaced

Figure 94

3. Install the top neutral spring parts and:

Tighten the top adjustment nut until

the discup just comes free from the
cone
Note the position of the nut
Counting the number of revolutions,
continue to turn the nut clockwise until
the discup drags again
Turn the nut counterclockwise one half
of the counted revolutions

Figure 95

4. Tighten the 7/16" lock nuts to lock the

rubber spring assemblies in place

Note: When the transaxle is replaced into

the chassis and the drive levers are
connected, a small amount of fine tuning on
the neutral springs will be required

Transaxle Installation
Estimated Time Required: 25 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) 7/16" combination wrench
(1) 9/16" combination wrench
(2) 3/4" combination wrench
(1) 11/16" combination wrench
(1) 9/16" socket
(1) 12" socket drive extension
(1) ratchet drive
(1) shop hammer
(1) mechanics punch (drift)
(1) needle nose pliers or spring hook

Figure 96

1. Place transaxle into chassis

Figure 97
2. Attach drive chains to transaxle.

Figure 98

3. Using a 9/16" socket, 12" extension, and

ratchet, re-install the four bolts that secure
the transaxle to the chassis.

NOTE: The belt tensioner spring often comes

loose during repairs. Ensure that it is
reattached.

Figure 99

4. Using a 1/2" socket, 12" extension, and

ratchet, re-tighten the belt keeper. The
proper gap between all belt keepers and the
belt is 1/8" with the tensioner installed.

Figure 100

Reconnect the double ball joints to the

5.
transaxle.

Figure 101

6. Reinstall the brake shaft with the roll pins.

Note: The roll pins must be a press fit. If

they are loose, they must be replaced.

Note: On mowers with a one piece brake

shaft, it is important to install the roll pin on
the right side first, then the left, and finally
the two in the center.

Figure 102

7. Re-install the brake shaft linkage.

Figure 103

NOTE: when installing the brake shaft on

models with the three piece shaft, ensure
that the brake shaft tension spring is
installed properly. The spring often comes
loose during repairs and must be re-inserted
into the chassis.

8. Re-install the seat using the reverse of the

procedures outlined for removing the seat
from the mower.

Note: Ensure that the seat switch connector

is not pinched by the seat frame or that the
wires can not come in contact with moving
parts of the transaxle.
Running Adjustments
Estimated Time Required: 30 minutes

Tools Required:
(1) 9/16" combination wrench
(1) 1/2" combination wrench
(1) 7/16" combination wrench
(1) 3/4" combination wrench

1. Equalize the air pressure in the rear tires to specified levels.

Establish "True" Neutral

During bench adjustments, "bench" neutral was established. The purpose of establishing "true" neutral is to
compensate for the weight of the levers and other parts.

2. Gently rotate the control levers from the drive position into the neutral slots. The levers should enter the slots
without having to be pushed forward or pulled backward to line them up with their neutral slots. If either lever
must be pushed or pulled, the ball joint on that side must be adjusted. Loosen the jam nut on the ball joint
assembly, and turn the ball joint collar until the lever rotates freely into their slot. Retighten the jam nut.

3. Start the mower and move the control levers to the drive position. See if the mower "creeps" either forward or
backward. If it does, the neutral spring assemblies must be adjusted to prevent creep. If the left discup is
dragging, adjust the left neutral spring assembly by turning the top nut clockwise or counter clockwise as
needed. If the right discup is dragging, adjust the right assembly.

4. If adjustment of the neutral spring assemblies was necessary, it will be necessary to readjust the levers as
outlined in step 2 above.

5. Continue this procedure until:

- The levers rotate freely into and out of their neutral slots.
- The mower does not creep in any direction.

6. Drive the mower. Start slowly and gradually "stroke" the levers all the way forward while noting how the mower
performs. If the mower is pulling only in the full forward position, adjust the lever stops located at the base of
the control levers.

7. If the mower is pulling either to the left or right through any portion of the lever stroke, follow the procedures
listed below.

- Stop and shut off the mower

- Rotate the levers into drive position.
- Raise the seat to gain access to the transaxle.
- Loosen the 7/16" nuts on the top of each rubber spring assembly.
- Turn the 3/4" jam nuts atop the rubber spring assemblies. If the left side of the
mower is slow, turn the left jam nuts counterclockwise to speed up the left side.
If the right side is slow, turn the jam nuts clockwise to speed up
that side. Reverse these actions to slow either side down as needed.
- Check neutral, and adjust the top neutral nut, as needed.
- Ensure that the control levers rotate freely in and out of their slots. Refer to step 2
above if necessary.

- Drive the mower again, and continue these steps until the mower drives in a
straight line at mowing speed or 1/2 to 3/4 lever stroke.

- Tighten the 7/16" lock nuts on top of each rubber spring assembly after all
adjustments are completed.

8. If the mower does not respond to the above adjustments, the rubber spring mount pre-load is probably too tight
and will need to be readjusted as covered in Bench Adjustment Procedures.
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