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PDF Aqa Gcse Biology Student Book Ann Fullick Ebook Full Chapter
PDF Aqa Gcse Biology Student Book Ann Fullick Ebook Full Chapter
Fullick
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Fig. 1
Fig. 2 Fig. 3
Fig. 4 Fig. 5
Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8
The House
Accommodates 20
Pigeons; Additional
Stories may be
Added. Fig. 1, Floor
and Ceiling; Fig. 3,
Arrangement of
Compartments; Fig.
8, Lower Story
Fig. 10 Fig. 9
Assembled Ready for
Roof Story; Fig. 10,
Framing of the Roof;
Fig. 11, Side View,
Showing Spacing of
Roof Boards; Fig. 12,
End View, Showing
Trim and Door on
Gable End
Fig. 11 Fig. 12
The post should be sunk into the ground about 2¹⁄₂ ft. and set into
a concrete foundation, if convenient. This will insure a more nearly
permanent as well as a more rigid support. Care should be taken
that the post is set plumb and this can be accomplished if a plumb
bob is used. The post should be braced to keep it vertical,
particularly if a concrete foundation is poured and tamped around it.
The construction should be painted two coats, inside and out, of a
color to harmonize with buildings or other surroundings.
The cost of building the house shown in the illustration was $3.50
and by using tar paper for the roof and discarded wire mesh, hinges,
and other fittings, this may be reduced considerably.
It is a good plan to stiffen the body with corner braces, using ¹⁄₈ by
³⁄₄-in. band iron. The floor of the body should be strongly fastened,
tongue-and-groove boards being used, and the side corners should
be fitted with iron braces at the bottom. The body may be extended
farther over the rear, if more loading space is required.
One coat of priming and one of paint finishes the box, and with the
name of the merchant on the front and rear, the whole makes a neat
advertising feature. Regarding the selection of a bicycle, since great
speed is not essential, the lower the gearing is, the easier it will be to
propel the load, and for ordinary work, where only small grades are
covered, a gear of about 65 will be found efficient.
Handy Use for Adhesive Tape
Adhesive tape is useful in the shop and for the home mechanic,
for many purposes: to mend broken handles temporarily; to bind up
a cut finger; to prevent a hammer or ax handle from slipping in the
hands, by applying tape around the handle; for making a ferrule for
an awl, chisel, etc.; around the nail set it will keep that tool from
jarring the hand; around a lead pencil in the vest pocket as a guard.
A Toy Machine Gun That Fires Wooden Bullets
For use in the mimic battles which most boys like to stage in this
war time, an interesting mechanical toy that a boy can easily make of
materials picked up in the workshop, is a machine gun having a
magazine for wooden bullets, and which can be made as a single or
a double-barrel gun. The construction of the single-barrel
arrangement is detailed in the sketch and the modification for a
double-barrel gun is shown in the smaller diagram. It is a duplicate of
the first type, suitably mounted as shown. The gun is fired by turning
the crank on the wheel and the bullets can be quickly replaced in the
magazine at the top.
The Machine Gun is Fired by Turning the Crank at the Wheel, the Pins on the
Latter Drawing Back the Hammer, Which is Hooked Up with a Rubber Band
The support for the gun is made of wood and braced strongly at
the base. The gun proper is set into the top of the vertical piece, as
shown, and the magazine, which is bent from a piece of tin to the
shape detailed in the sectional view, fits on top of the breach of the
gun. The hammer, which drives the bullets, is made of a piece of stiff
wire bent to the shape shown. The lower curved end is connected to
a small nail set on a block at the shaft of the wheel. To fire the gun,
the hammer is drawn back by contact with the small nails set into the
side of the wheel. As the wheel is turned, the nails grip the hammer
and then suddenly release it, driving out the lowest bullet each time.
The bullets are piled in the magazine, as shown in the detailed view
at the right, where the rear view of the gun barrel is indicated.—
Edward R. Smith, Walla Walla, Washington.
Using Plate Holder as Printing Frame
A cumbersome part of a commercial photographer’s equipment
when “on the road” is his set of printing frames. Amateur
photographers who have cameras using plates of more than one
size find these frames an expensive part of their outfits. A method
that is practical and inexpensive for these requirements in many
cases, is as follows: Place the sensitized paper in the plate holder
with the emulsion side up. Then put the plate in the holder in the
same way as if about to expose it in a camera, but with the emulsion
side down, so that the sensitized side of the paper and the emulsion
side of the plate are in contact. The paper and plate are thus held in
close contact without the use of springs, as in the regular printing
frames. The plate and paper can be removed by pressing the spring
catch at the bottom of the holder, and the plate is not easily moved
while in place.—Francis W. Clinton, Brooklyn, New York.