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 PD
F
Banff, Jasper
& Glacier
NATIONAL PARKS

PDF ebook
Edition 4th Edition
Release Date April 2016
Pages 288

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4 easy-to-use
sections
How to Use This Book
Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

1
1 Sights 4 Sleeping
r Beaches 5 Eating
PLAN YOUR TRIP 2 Activities 6 Drinking
Your planning tool kit C Courses 3 Entertainment
Photos & suggestions to help T Tours 7 Shopping
you create the perfect trip.
z Festivals
& Events
Information
8 & Transport
All reviews are ordered in our authors’ preference,

2
ON THE ROAD
Your complete guide
Expert reviews, easy-to-use
maps & insider tips.
starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:
Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we
suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author
preference.
Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price
range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these
ranges, by author preference.
These symbols and abbreviations give vital
information for each listing:
Must-visit recommendation

3
Sustainable or green recommendation
No payment required
% Telephone number f Ferry

UNDERSTAND h
p
Opening hours
Parking
j Tram
d Train
Get more from your trip n Nonsmoking apt apartments
Learn about the big picture, to a Air-conditioning d double rooms
make sense of what you see. i Internet access dm dorm beds
W Wi-fi access q quad rooms
s Swimming pool r rooms
v Vegetarian selection s single rooms

4
E English-language menu ste suites
c Family-friendly tr triple rooms
# Pet-friendly tw twin rooms
g Bus
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Your at-a-glance reference For symbols used on maps, see the Map Legend.
Vital practical information
for a smooth trip.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Banff, Jasper
& Glacier
NATIONAL PARKS

Jasper National Park

p134

Banff National Park

p46

Around Banff
National Park
p116

Waterton Lakes
National Park
p216
Glacier National Park
p176
Around Glacier
National Park
p207

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Brendan Sainsbury, Michael Grosberg

 PLAN ON THE ROAD
YOUR TRIP
Welcome to Banff, BANFF NATIONAL AROUND BANFF
Jasper & Glacier. . . . . . . . . 4 PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 NATIONAL PARK . . . 116
Banff, Jasper & Canmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Glacier National Day Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Parks Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Overnight Hikes . . . . . . . . 68 Kananaskis Country . . . . . 121
Cycling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Yoho National Park . . . . . . 124
Banff, Jasper &
Glacier’s Top 20 . . . . . . . . . 8 Driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Lake O’Hara. . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Other Activities . . . . . . . . 77 Mt Assiniboine Provincial
Need to Know. . . . . . . . . . 18 Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Kootenay National Park &
Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Radium Hot Springs . . . . . 128
If You Like…. . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Golden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Month by Month. . . . . . . . 24 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Drinking & Nightlife. . . . 110 JASPER NATIONAL
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Entertainment. . . . . . . . . 110 PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Travel with Children. . . . . 38
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Travel with Pets . . . . . . . . 42 Day Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . 138
Overnight Hikes . . . . . . . 146
RONNIE CHUA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PETE SEAWARD/LONELY PLANET ©

BANFF SUMMER ARTS

FESTIVAL (P25)
WWING/GETTY IMAGES ©

FLOWERS IN BLOOM NEAR

LAKE LOUISE (P60)

Cycling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Other Activities . . . . . . .
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Drinking & Nightlife. . . .
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . .
GLACIER NATIONAL
PARK. . . . . . . . . . . . . .176
Day Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
Cycling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
Other Activities . . . . . . . 189
ROCKY MOUNTAINEER TRAIN
(P113) PASSING THROUGH
BANFF NATIONAL PARK
Contents
UNDERSTAND
149 Driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 The Parks
152 Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
152 Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236
156 Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Geology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
163 Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204
Wildlife. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
163 Drinking & Nightlife. . . 205
169 Entertainment. . . . . . . . 205 Conservation. . . . . . . . . . 254
170
171 AROUND GLACIER
NATIONAL PARK . . . 207 SURVIVAL
West Glacier . . . . . . . . . . . 208 GUIDE
St Mary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
East Glacier. . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Health & Safety . . . . . . . 258
Blackfeet Indian Clothing &
Reservation. . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Equipment. . . . . . . . . . . . 264
Whitefish. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . . 267
WATERTON LAKES Transportation . . . . . . . . 275
NATIONAL PARK . . . 216 Index. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Day Hikes. . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Map Legend. . . . . . . . . . . 287
Driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220
Cycling. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Other Activities . . . . . . . 223
Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Drinking &
Entertainment. . . . . . . . 230
Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . 230
SPECIAL
FEATURES
Travel with Children. . . . . 38
Travel with Pets . . . . . . . . 42
Full-color Wildlife
feature. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Clothing & Equipment
Checklist. . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
4

Welcome to
Banff, Jasper
& Glacier
Sit atop a mountain, hike through the
forest, feel the spray of a waterfall:
Banff, Jasper and Glacier offer outdoor
experiences at their simplest and best.

Historical Heritage Protected Environments

While other countries protect ancient ruins
and medieval castles, the Rocky Mountains
offer up Banff, Jasper and Glacier, legend-
ary natural wonders replete with crenelated
peaks, majestic meadows and scenery-
shaping glaciers that together make up an
important part of North America’s historical
jigsaw. Of the hundreds of national parks
scattered around the world today, Banff, cre-
ated in 1885, is the third oldest. Associated
with the development of America’s cross-
continental railroads, which lured wealthy
visitors into previously unexplored wilder-
ness, these protected areas practically
invented modern tourism, and their hold on
the popular imagination has not diminished.
Wilderness Walks
There are bucket-loads of things to do in
Banff, Jasper and Glacier, from heart-in-
your-mouth white-water rafting to an easy
round of golf. But arguably the most reward-
ing activity in the parks is the simplest –
hiking. Walking along a well-maintained
trail amid classic mountain splendor is one
of life’s great spiritual diversions. You won’t
be the first convert: hiking, by default, was
the primary means of transportation for the
indigenous people of the Rockies and the
early European explorers who followed.
Acting as litmus tests for the tricky balance
between ecological integrity and a rip-
roaring visitor experience, the Rocky
Mountain national parks have long played
a key role in safeguarding North America’s
natural environment. Glacier protects an
ecosystem unchanged since Columbus’ time,
Banff exhibits some of the finest wildlife-
watching in North America, and Jasper is a
dark-sky preserve free of unnecessary light
pollution; underneath the myriad adventure
opportunities lies savvy park management
paving the way to a greener future.
Outdoor Accessibility
One of the advantages of the Rocky Moun-
tain parks is their accessibility. Banff, in
particular, embodies the fragile, sometimes
controversial, juxtaposition between the
tamed and the untamed. While some frown
at the commercialization of Banff Ave, the
home comforts have their merits. Outfitters
and guides add safety to potentially compli-
cated trip-planning, while speedy gondolas
allow people who might otherwise not
have the opportunity to get up above the
timberline to experience flower-carpeted
alpine meadows and wild animals roaming
through their natural habitats.
 5
BRIAN LAWRENCE/GETTY IMAGES ©

Why I Love Banff, Jasper & Glacier

By Brendan Sainsbury, Writer
Ever since climbing my first Welsh mountain at the age of eight, hiking and trail-running have
been in my blood. For me, Banff, Jasper and Glacier offer some of the best trails in North
America – suitably wild and rugged, but easily accessible without a car. On a fine day in high
summer, there’s nothing I like more than roaming alone above the treeline in Banff’s Sun-
shine Meadows or Jasper’s Bald Hills, drinking in the views and singing my favorite Smiths
songs to ward off the bears.
For more about our writers, see page 288.

Above: Moraine Lake (p95), Banff National Park

Banff, Jasper & Glacier National Parks
#

100 km
Banff, Jasper & Glacier National Parks e 00 50 miles

r
#
Grande Cache \ Fort
#
Haddock \ Saskatchewan
Chip \
#
34 Elk Island

R iv e
Skyline Trail Lake Natonal Park
Hike Jasper’s best ÷
# #
\ Mundare

sc a
Edson #
\ ^
#

ba
backcountry trail (p146) #
\
\
#

a
Carrot Creek Edmonton
h Stony Plain
3333333 Jasper
National Brule
At
\
#
Hinton Maligne Lake
Wabamun
Lake
3 ELEVATION
3000m
Cruise to Spirit \
# Leduc
Fr Park Lake 2750m
Island (p162) Drayton \#
# # 2500m
as ÷ Pocahontas \
er
3333333 Valley Pigeon
Ri 2000m
ve Lake
r 1500m
\
# 1000m
Wetaskiwin 500m
Moose Athabasca Glacier Buck
\
# Jasper 0
3333333 #
Valemount \ Lake Ride the Snocoach on the Lake
Columbia Icefield (p157)
Gull \
#
Icefields Parkway Maligne Lake Ponoka Buffalo
Lake Lake
Drive Canada’s most
3333333
breathtaking road (p152)
#
Nordegg \ Sylvan
Lake \
#
Stettler
#
chewan Ri ve r
Kinbasket askat ]
# Red Deer Castor \
Lake hS
3333333
33333 rt Lake Agnes

No
Sip Earl Grey at a mountain
Murtle Takakkaw Falls teahouse (p63)
Lake Admire Canada’s second- Sulliyan
#
\ Lake
highest waterfall (p124) Saskatchewan
3333333
33333 #
\ Avola
Crossing

Banff
ALBERTA
\
# Trochu
44
4 4
Morrin
#
\
National Lake Louise

um
Park Ride a gondola up Whitehorn

ColRiver
33333
33 ÷
# 4

bia
Takakkaw Mountain (p95)
\
#
Falls #
Y
Donald Lake Louise
Kicking Horse River Field# #
\
\
Re
Brave some wild Castle Lake dD
\
# Airdrie
#
\ ÷
#
white water (p124) Junction Minnewanka ee
333
33
33333
33
33 Adams
Mt Revelstoke
÷
#
Glacier
Golden
Yoho
National
Park
#
\
Banff
\
#
\
#
Cochrane
Strathmore
rR
iv
e r
Lake ÷ National \
#
National Park # # ]
#
Park (Canada) Canmore \ Calgary
333
33
33
33333
33
33
 Shuswap
Lake \
#
Sicamous
BR ITISH
COLUMBIA \
Brisco #
33
33 ÷
#
Kootenay
R Mt Assiniboine
(3618m) Bassano
\
#

National Banff Town

#
\ Park
Salmon Arm Trout
Get some mountain culture

Mabel
Moraine Lake
Paddle acrossLake
lake (p95)
an azure
33
33
Radium #
Hot Springs
\ at Whyte Museum (p86)
44
4 4 McGregor
Lake
Lake \
#
Upper Vulcan
Arrow #
\ Nanton
33 \
#
Fairmont
Lake
#
\ Vernon Columbia Hot Springs
\
# Cherryville \
# Nakusp Lake
\
#
Canal Mt Assiniboine
Okanagan \
# Oyama Flats
Lake Hike to the Canadian \
# Claresholm

#
]
Radium Hot Springs
Soak in a volcanic
Matterhorn (p68) 4 Taber\
spring (p129) #
Kelowna
Fort Macleod \
# #
]
Sparwood \
#
Lethbridge
Lower \
#
Arrow \
Balfour# Crawford Bay \
# Fort Steele
Lake
#
] Penticton ]
Cranbrook # \
# Fernie \
# Carthew-Alderson Trail
\
# Nelson Pincher Creek
Kootenay Explore high-alpine forests

Ko
Lake Waterton and meadows (p219)

ote
\
#
\
# Castlegar Lakes
Elko

na
National \
# Cardston
Park

yR
Greenwood #
÷ Waterton

i ve
\
# \
# \
# \

r
\
# Rossland Creston Yahk 33
CA NAD A
U S A
# Townsite

#
Babb \
IDAHO Going-to-the-Sun Road \
#
WAS HINGTON 33
333 ÷
# St Mary
Experience Glacier’s classic
Glacier
road trip (p192) National Browning
Priest Park Two \
#
Colville Lake Medicine
\
#
MONTANA Valley

Lake
333
Whitefish
\
#

#
Essex \
Roosevelt \
# Sandpoint Kalispell \
#
#
Newport \

Pend
Oreille
Two Medicine Valley
333
333
Lake Spot bears in a mountain Flathead
valley (p197) Lake
333
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
8

Banff, Jasper &

Glacier’s

Top 20

Lake Louise
1 No one should leave this mortal coil
without first setting eyes upon the
robin-egg-blue waters of Lake Louise
(p60) nestled below the hulking Victoria
Glacier and ringed by an impressive amphi-
theater of mountains. True, the lakeshore
crowds can sometimes resemble a giant
emporium of selfie-sticks, but grab your
photos from a more unique angle – on Mt
Fairview, for instance, or looking back from
the Victoria Glacier – and solitude could
conceivably be yours.
GREG MCLEMORE/500PX ©
9
Icefields Parkway
2 There are amazing road trips, and
then there’s the Icefields Pkwy
(p80). This iconic highway unfurls for
230km (143 miles) between Lake Louise
and Jasper, and takes in some of the
most mind-blowing mountain panoramas
anywhere on the Continental Divide. En
route you’ll pass cerulean lakes, crashing
cascades, gleaming glaciers and the larg-
est area of unbroken ice anywhere in North
America, the mighty Columbia Icefield. It’s
a true trip of a lifetime, so fuel up, sit back,
and let one of the world’s great scenery
shows unfold.
ANNA GORIN / GETTY IMAGES ©
10
Skyline Trail
3 Cross-park views of Jasper are par for
the course on the widely celebrated
Skyline Trail (p146). It could have had
any number of descriptive names con-
ferred upon it – the Homeric path, the
PL A N YO U R TRI P B A N F F, J A S P E R & G L A C I E R ’ S T O P 2 0
celestial walk, the resplendent ramble
– but instead its name describes exactly
how it is: a 45.8km (28.7-mile) promenade
through Jasper’s splendidly glaciated high
country that offers kilometer after kilo-
meter of seemingly endless skyline. Is
there a more spectacular hike anywhere in
North America? Possibly not.
4
Going-to-the-Sun Road
4 The start is inauspicious enough: a
signposted turning off US 2, the blink-
and-you’ll-miss-it village of West Glacier,
followed by a serendipitous plunge into
dense forest around Apgar. It’s only on the
shores of Lake McDonald that the views
start getting better and better, until you
feel as if the Going-to-the-Sun Rd (p192)
really is – well – going to the sun. The
highpoint is Logan Pass on the Continental
Divide. After that it’s all downhill to St Mary,
amid more jaw-dropping scenery and po-
tent lessons in glacial erosion.
JOSH MCCULLOCH / GETTY IMAGES ©
PUNG / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

JARED HOBBS / GETTY IMAGES ©
Wildlife
Watching
5 7
Black and grizzly bears
may be the holy grail
for wildlife spotters, but
there are plenty of other
animals to seek out. The
parks support a hugely
diverse range of species,
from elk and bighorn
sheep to mountain goats,
marmots and moose, not
to mention an entire avi-
ary of unusual birds. The
best time to see wildlife
(p246) is always at dawn
or dusk; bring along decent
binoculars and a telephoto
lens to help with the per-
fect view.
Above: A Rocky Mountain elk
11
5 6
JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES ©
PL A N YO U R TRI P B A N F F, J A S P E R & G L A C I E R ’ S T O P 2 0
7
TOM NEVESELY / GETTY IMAGES ©
Moraine Lake Sunshine
6
Canoes have been the Meadows
preferred method of Climb above the
transport in the Rockies treeline in the Rocky
since time immemorial, Mountains and you’re in
and they’re still an ideal a different domain, an
way to explore the region’s ethereal world of impres-
lakes and rivers. Canoes sionistic flower meadows,
and kayaks can be hired on glassy mountain lakes and
many of the region’s water- jagged peaks above the
ways, but few water jour- clouds. The easiest access
neys can match Moraine point to this wild terrain is at
Lake (p95) in the scen- Banff’s Sunshine Meadows
ery stakes. Paddling out (p92), where a summer
across this peacock-blue shuttle replaces a winter ski
lake in a traditional canoe, gondola to take hikers up
gazing up to the icy sum- to the Continental Divide
mits of Wenkchemna Peak, for fabulous short and long
you’ll feel like you’ve been hikes, some of them guided.
transported back in time to Extra bonus: Sunshine
the days of the early pio- Meadows metamorphoses
neers and voyageurs. into Banff’s finest ski resort
in the winter months.
12
8 9
PL A N YO U R TRI P B A N F F, J A S P E R & G L A C I E R ’ S T O P 2 0
Canmore Nordic
Centre
8 9
The Rockies’ rugged
landscape of moun-
tains and valleys makes
perfect terrain if you’re into
mountain biking. Many of
Banff and Jasper’s trails are
designated as multi-use,
meaning they’re open to
hikers and horseback rid-
ers as well as cyclists, but
for the best cycling head
for the groomed trails of
the Canmore Nordic Centre
(p33). There are more
than 65km (40 miles) of
routes to explore, ranging
from easy rolls to epic sin-
gletracks, and the regular
skills clinics can help you
get the most out of your
ride.
RYAN CREARY / AGEFOTOSTOCK©
Maligne
Lake
Beyond its oft-visited
northern shore, Maligne
Lake (p162) remains a
wilderness lake bequeathed
with the kind of grandiose
scenery that early explor-
ers such as Mary Schäffer
would still recognize. The
only way to penetrate this
watery kingdom’s southern
reaches is to hike in through
backcountry, venture out
solo on a kayak, or – for
more relaxed day-trippers
– enjoy it communally on a
daily boat launch. The object
of everyone’s longing is the
calendar-cover view of tiny
Spirit Island backed by an
amphitheater of appropri-
ately ‘rocky’ mountains.
JEAN-PIERRE LESCOURRET / GETTY IMAGES ©
Tonquin Valley
10 In winter, Jasper’s
visitors drop to a
trickle, with the majority
never venturing far beyond
the comforting skiing hub
of Marmot Basin. What
they’re missing is some of
the best icy backcountry in
Canada. The Tonquin Val-
ley (p156) – already well
known to summer hikers
and horseback riders – is
a snow-blanketed nirvana
equipped with a sprinkling
of lodges where you can
practice the energetic art
of hut-to-hut cross-country
skiing. Characterized by
manageable elevation and
a minimal avalanche risk,
it’s a ‘haute route’ without
the height, or the danger.
 13
10
JOHN E MARRIOTT / AGEFOTOSTOCK©

PL A N YO U R TRI P B A N F F, J A S P E R & G L A C I E R ’ S T O P 2 0
11
Jasper Skytram

11
DIRK HEDEMANN / ALAMY PHOTO STOCK ©

It probably wouldn’t
happen today, but
back in the 1960s, in an era
when mechanical geeks
were experimenting with
fancy new gimmicks, the
Jasper park authorities
built this high-speed
cable car (p160) to a lofty
knoll on 2466m (8088ft)
Whistlers Mountain. Hiking
purists may disapprove,
but the tramway provides
an easy way for people of all
ages and abilities to enjoy
the beautiful alpine tundra.
14
12
PL A N YO U R TRI P B A N F F, J A S P E R & G L A C I E R ’ S T O P 2 0
Takakkaw Falls
12 First Nations people
had it right when
they named this thunder-
ing waterfall (p124):
Takakkaw translates as ‘it
is magnificent’ in the Cree
language, and you’ll prob-
ably find yourself thinking
the same thing when you
first set eyes on it. At a total
height of 384m (1259ft),
Takakkaw is the second-
highest waterfall in Canada,
topped only by Della Falls
on Vancouver Island. A trail
leads through pine forest to
the base of the falls, afford-
ing grand views across the
valley toward Cathedral
Mountain and the rest of
Yoho National Park.
13
MARTIN CHILD / GETTY IMAGES ©
FRANK CARTER / GETTY IMAGES ©
14
CARL BRUEMMER / DESIGN PICS / GETTY IMAGES ©
White-Water Mt Assiniboine
Rafting
14 If it’s a taste of
13
There are few ac- the wilds you’re
tivities that induce a yearning for, Assiniboine
more white-knuckle, heart- (p127) is where you’ll
in-mouth, seat-of-the- find it. The mountain’s
pants adrenaline hit than rocket-profile peak marks
hurtling downriver in an the start of some of the
inflatable raft armed with finest backcountry trails
nothing but a paddle and anywhere in the Canadian
a prayer. Despite the ap- Rockies. With its secret
parent danger, white-water lakes, soaring mountains
rafting (p34) is actually and remote backcountry
well within the capability of campgrounds, Assiniboine
most people. Guided trips feels like another world
are run on many rivers, compared to the busy trails
including the Bow, Kanana- of Banff. It takes some
skis and Kicking Horse, and effort and dedication to
while you’re guaranteed get here, though – you’ll
to get soaked to the skin, need legs of steel, sturdy
you’re sure to have a huge boots, proper supplies
grin on your face once and, of course, a sense of
you’re finally back on terra adventure.
firma.

Radium Hot Springs
15 If it weren’t for the geothermal
springs that bubble up from
beneath the mountains, Banff and its
neighboring national parks may never
have come into existence. The craze for
spa bathing was instrumental in attracting
early visitors to the park during the late
19th century. While the original site at the
Cave & Basin National Historic Site is now
off-limits to bathers, you can still take an
outdoor dip at the twin pools of Radium
Hot Springs (p129), as well as its sister
springs in Banff and Jasper.
JOHN E MARRIOTT / GETTY IMAGES ©
DUCEPT PASCAL / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©
15
Glacier’s Historic Hotels
16 As much museums of park history
as evocative places to stay, Glacier’s
historic hotels date from the second decade
of the 20th century, when they were built by
the Great Northern Railway to accommodate
PL A N YO U R TRI P B A N F F, J A S P E R & G L A C I E R ’ S T O P 2 0
travelers fresh off busy cross-continental
steam trains. Paying homage to Swiss-
chalet-style architecture and sited in areas
of natural beauty, these noble structures
survive today with their rustic spirit intact.
Old-school rooms in places like the Many
Glacier Hotel (p203) lack TVs, air-con and
fancy gadgets, but retain bags of gilded-age
glamor. Bottom: Many Glacier Hotel
15
16
16
17
PL A N YO U R TRI P B A N F F, J A S P E R & G L A C I E R ’ S T O P 2 0
18
Bears in Two Medicine
Valley
17 Bear sightings inspire the whole
gamut of feelings in humans, from
fascination, intrigue and reverence to shock
and blind fear. You can grab a cocktail of
all five in the Two Medicine Valley (p197),
once one of Glacier National Park’s more
accessible haunts but, in the days since car
traffic diverted to the Going-to-the-Sun Rd,
a deliciously quiet corner preferred by hik-
ers, solitary fishers and – er – bears. At last
count the park had around 400 grizzlies and
substantially more black bears.
Top: American black bear with cubs
LARSEK / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
WITOLD SKRYPCZAK / GETTY IMAGES ©
Athabasca Glacier
18 Driving on a glacier: sounds more
like the kind of stunt pulled on a
car-crazy TV show than something you
could actually do, right? Wrong. At Jasper’s
humungous Columbia Icefield, specially
adapted Snocoaches crawl and crunch
across the Athabasca Glacier (p157), af-
fording amazing views of crevasses, seracs
and an endless horizon of ice. You’ll even get
the chance to disembark briefly and set foot
on the 400-year-old snow. The so-called Ice
Explorers leave every 15 to 30 minutes from
the Columbia Icefield Centre in summer.

BRADLEY L. GRANT / SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GLENN VAN DER KNIJFF / GETTY IMAGES ©
Afternoon Tea at Lake Agnes
19 After slogging all day on the moun-
tain trails around Lake Louise, what
could be more civilized than a cup of Earl
Grey and a slice of homemade cake? The
historic teahouse (p63) at Lake Agnes
has been serving refreshments to weary
walkers since 1901 when it was built by the
Canadian Pacific Railway, and it remains
an ideal stop-off for parched hikers tack-
ling the trail to the Big Beehive. For an al-
together posher experience, you can enjoy
the C$43 tea spread in the Chateau Lake
Louise. Top: Lake Agnes Teahouse
17
19
PL A N YO U R TRI P B A N F F, J A S P E R & G L A C I E R ’ S T O P 2 0
20
Waterton’s Carthew-
Alderson Trail
20
Waterton’s diminutive size means
that everything’s close at hand,
from the local cinema and afternoon tea in
the Prince of Wales Hotel to the Carthew-
Alderson Trail (p219), your highly prized
‘day pass’ into flower-embellished high-
alpine tundra with barely a tree to break the
vista. Even better, you don’t need a cable car
to get there! Just catch the early hiker shut-
tle to Cameron Lake, climb 4km (2.5 miles)
through scented pine forest and you’re
there – on top of the world, or feeling like it.

18
Need to Know
For more information, see Survival Guide (p257)
Entrance Fees
Banff & Jasper: adult day
pass C$9.80; Glacier:
pedestrian/vehicle weekly
pass US$12/25; Waterton
Lakes: adult day pass
C$7.80
Number of Visitors
Banff: 3,606,637 (2014);
Jasper: 2,151,791 (2014);
Glacier: 2,338,528 (2014);
Waterton Lakes: 402,502
(2013)
Years Founded
Banff: 1885; Jasper: 1907;
Glacier: 1910; Waterton
Lakes: 1895
Money
ATMs in Banff, Jasper
and Glacier townsites,
scarce elsewhere. Credit
and debit cards widely
accepted.
Cell Phones
Coverage is patchy outside
townsites. Phone must be
compatible with Canadian/
US network.
Driving
Most major roads are
sealed, some minor roads
are gravel/dirt. Some roads
closed during heavy snow-
fall. Snow chains required
in some areas in winter.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
When to Go
Jasper National Park
GO Jun–Oct (hiking)
GO Dec–Apr (skiing)
Banff National Park
GO Jun–Oct (hiking)
GO Dec–Apr (skiing)
Waterton Lakes National Park
GO Jun–Oct (hiking)
GO Dec–Apr (skiing)
Dry climate Glacier National Park
Warm to hot summers, cold winters GO Jun–Oct (hiking)
GO Dec–Apr (skiing)
Mild summers, cold winters
High Season Shoulder (May, Low Season
(Jul & Aug) Jun, Sep & Oct) (Nov–Apr)
¨¨July and August ¨¨Spring comes late, ¨¨Late March to
are the busiest with snow lingering May is the quietest
months. until May or June. season.
¨¨Mainly warm ¨¨Many lakes are ¨¨Accommodations
weather and sunny frozen and some can be cheap, but
skies, but be trails remain closed many campgrounds,
prepared for sudden until early summer. trails and activities
thunderstorms. ¨¨June is the wettest are closed.
¨¨Trail closures and month in Banff and ¨¨Weather
hiking restrictions Jasper. permitting, ski areas
during buffalo-berry usually open from
season (mid-July early December to
onwards). early May.
 19
Useful Websites Daily Costs Akamina Pkwy partially closes
November to May.
Lonely Planet (www.lonely Budget:
planet.com/canada/alberta/ Less than C$100
banff-and-jasper-national-parks, Park Policies &
www.lonelyplanet.com/usa/
¨¨Dorm room in hostel or Regulations
camping: C$30–C$40
rocky-mountains/glacier-
Hunting Not permitted in any of

PL A N YO U R TRI P N e e d t o K n o w
national-park) Hotel bookings, ¨¨Self-catering from
traveler forum and more. supermarkets: C$20 the parks. Firearms are banned
in Banff, Jasper and Waterton.
National Parks Canada (www. ¨¨Hiking on local trails using
pc.gc.ca) Comprehensive info public transport: free–C$20 Park passes Anyone intending
for Canada’s national parks. on stopping in the national
Midrange: parks will require a National
US National Parks (www.nps. C$100–C$400 Park Pass.
gov) US parks, including Glacier.
¨¨Double room in a hotel: Pets Must be kept on a leash at
Travel Alberta (www.travel C$150–C$200 all times and are not allowed in
alberta.com) Alberta-wide site. backcountry shelters. Pets are
¨¨Lunch and dinner with
Trail Peak (www.trailpeak.com) drinks in local midrange prohibited from most trails in
User-generated trail guide. restaurants: C$50 Glacier National Park.
¨¨Compact car hire: C$50 Trail etiquette and safety Stay
Important on the trails and avoid cutting
Top End:
Numbers across switchbacks, which
More than C$400 causes unnecessary erosion and
Banff Information %403- damages fragile plants.
¨¨Suite in a luxury hotel or
Centre 762-1550 lodge: C$300 Wildlife and cultural artifacts
Jasper Information %780- It is illegal to remove any natural
¨¨Three-course meal with
Centre 852-6176 or cultural artifacts from the
wine: C$80–C$100
Glacier National %406- parks, including rocks, stones,
¨¨Guided minibus tour: C$100
Park Headquarters 888- minerals and fossils, as well as
7800 antlers, nests, bird eggs, plants,
Opening Dates cones and wildflowers.
Waterton %403-
859-2378
Banff
Hwy 1 between Banff and Lake Getting There &
Louise open year-round. Minor Around
Exchange Rates roads snowbound in winter.
All the parks are accessible on
High trails closed until at least
AUS A$1 C$0.96 US$0.73 good roads. Most visitors arrive
mid-June.
in their own vehicle and drive.
CAN C$1 C$1 US$0.76 Jasper
Getting around the parks with-
Euro €1 C$1.50 US$1.14 Icefields Pkwy between Lake out a car can be challenging,
zone Louise and Jasper closes during but not impossible, with a small
heavy snowfall. Minor roads selection of expensive shuttles.
JPN ¥100 C$1.08 US$0.82 snowbound between December Glacier has an excellent free
and May. Most trails open by park shuttle linking most of the
NZL NZ$1 C$0.88 US$0.67 late June. trailheads (summer only). Public
transportation within Waterton
UK £1 C$2.07 US$1.57 Glacier
is limited.
The only main road (Going-to-
VIA trains serve Jasper. Amtrak
USA US$1 C$1.32 US$1 the-Sun Rd) is closed until May
serves Glacier with its trans-
or June. Minimal services main-
continental Empire Builder
tained at Apgar Village in winter.
service.
For current exchange rates see Waterton
www.xe.com.
Most facilities open May to For much more on
September. Red Rock Pkwy getting around,
closes from September to May; see p277
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
20
What’s New
Via Ferratas
First established by the Italian military
during WWI, these fixed-protection climb-
ing routes equipped with ladders, cables
and suspension bridges are starting to pop
up all over western Canada. New operators
at Mt Norquay, in Banff National Park,
and at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
(p133), near Golden, BC, run guided
hikes across vertiginous mountain crags
allowing non-climbers to tackle areas
normally only accessible to experienced
alpinists. (p82)
Glacier Skywalk
New in 2014, Jasper’s glass-floored clifftop
walkway juts out over the Sunwapta River
valley by the side of the Icefields Pkwy. Visi-
tors are taken over on special buses from the
nearby Columbia Icefield Centre. (p159)
Crimson
Jasper has sprouted a plush new down-
town hotel. One of six establishments run
by Mountain Park Lodges, the Crimson is
equipped with a swimming pool, gym and
well-regarded casual restaurant. (p166)
Hidden Cove Campground
This small new paddle-in campground be-
side Jasper’s Maligne Lake, just 5km from
the busy north shore, has been designed as
a handy stepping stone into the brawnier
wilderness beyond. (p154)
Jasper Planetarium
Enhancing its role as a Dark Sky Preserve
free of artificial light pollution, Jasper
upped its stargazing potential in 2015
with the opening of a mini ‘inflatable’
planetarium. (p157)
‘Glamping’
Banff and Jasper have latched onto the
trend for ‘glamping’ (glamorous camping)
with the installation of oTENTiks –
A-frame tents with electricity, hot water
and heating – in several campgrounds.
Paddleboarding
This popular low-impact water sport has
taken off in all of the parks, thanks, in
part, to the abundance of accessible lakes.
You can either bring your own paddle-
board or rent one locally.
Refurbished Hotels in Glacier
Some of Glacier National Park’s historic
hotels are undergoing some much-needed
renovations in 2016–17, including the Lake
McDonald Lodge, Rising Sun Motor Inn
and the Many Glacier Hotel.
New Visitor Center in
Apgar Village
Glacier’s tiny service ‘village’ has sprouted
an impressive new LEED–certified visitor
center that gives out useful information on
the national park. It comes equipped with
free wi-fi. (p205)
Upgraded ‘Jammer’ Bus
Glacier has upgraded one of its vintage red
‘Jammer’ buses (originally dating from the
1930s) to cater for people with disabilities.
The bus runs on the park’s ever-popular
sightseeing routes including the Going-to-
the-Sun Rd. (p199)
For more recommendations and
reviews, see lonelyplanet.com/
thorntree
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
If You Like…
Wildlife Watching
Vermilion Lakes Tranquil lakes
within easy reach of Banff Town
where you can often spot bea-
vers and grazing elk. (p90)
Bow Valley Parkway Running
parallel to the Trans-Canada
Hwy, this old forest road is an
ideal place to see wildlife from
your car. (p78)
Lake Louise Gondola Look out
for grizzly bears foraging on sur-
rounding avalanche slopes as
you glide upwards. (p96)
Many Glacier One of the best
places in Glacier to see bears,
mountain goats, bighorn sheep
and moose. (p198)
Maligne Lake Road Another
good route to cruise with your
car, keeping your eyes peeled for
elusive woodland caribou. (p151)
Icefields Parkway Lots of traffic
doesn’t deter the full gamut of
Rocky Mountain wildlife from
frequenting the roadside. (p152)
Logan Pass A favorite high-
altitude hangout for bighorn
sheep, mountain goats and
hoary marmots. (p196)
Lookouts & Views
Sulphur Mountain Quite pos-
sibly the most famous view in
Banff National Park. (p88)
Glacier Skywalk This new ver-
tiginous glass-floored lookout
juts out from the Icefield Pkwy.
(p159)
Fairview Build leg strength
climbing to one of the best (and
highest) viewpoints of Lake
Louise. (p63)
Whistlers Mountain Hike or
catch a cable car up to Jasper’s
best-loved viewpoint amid a
backdrop of high-alpine tundra.
(p143)
Parker Ridge Gaze across the
Saskatchewan Glacier from this
windy ridge halfway along the
Icefields Pkwy. (p66)
Going-to-the-Sun Road This
amazing roller-coaster road
boasts 85km (53 miles) of
nonstop views. (p192)
Glaciers
Athabasca Glacier This grand
glacier is but a fragment of the
enormous Columbia Icefield,
North America’s largest area of
ice outside the polar regions.
(p157)
Grinnell Glacier See Glacier’s
most accessible ice river from
atop the Continental Divide, or
down below from Many Glacier.
(p198)
Saskatchewan Glacier Another
spur tongue from the Columbia
Icefield; this one is best seen
from Parker Ridge. (p66)
21
Stanley Glacier Hike through
burned forest to this classic
‘hanging valley’ glacier in Koot-
enay National Park. (p129)
Jackson Glacier One of 25 fast-
disappearing icefields in Glacier
National Park. Don’t miss the
lookout on Going-to-the-Sun Rd.
(p196)
Adventure
Activities
Skiing and snowboarding
Tackle heart-stopping slaloms
and off-piste thrills in Banff’s Big
Three resorts, or head to Jasper
for quieter runs. (p36)
White-water rafting The class
IV rapids of the Kicking Horse
River are some the wildest in
Canada; prepare to get very wet.
(p80)
Caving Explore a subterranean
world of stalactites and under-
ground pools in the Rat’s Nest
Cave near Canmore. (p118)
Mountain biking Jasper
National Park has, arguably, the
best and most varied off-road
biking network in Canada.
(p149)
Via ferratas Try out these new
fixed-protection climbing routes
at the top of Banff’s Mt Norquay.
(p82)
22

Lakes & Waterfalls

COLS3 / GETTY IMAGES ©

Lake Louise Without doubt
one of the most iconic vistas in
Canada, despite the omnipresent
crowds. (p60)
PL A N YO U R TRI P I F Y O U L I K E . . .

Johnston Canyon See three

waterfalls in a single canyon on
cleverly adapted boardwalks
crammed with day-trippers.
(p58)
Lake McDonald Take a trip
or paddle a canoe across the
waters of Glacier’s stateliest lake.
(p189)
Lake Minnewanka Catch a
cruise across the largest lake in
Banff National Park. (p91)
Maligne Lake Jasper’s most
famous lake is the ideal place to
launch a backcountry kayaking
trip. (p162)
Takakkaw Falls This enormous
waterfall in Yoho National Park
drops 384m (1259ft) to the valley
floor. (p124)
Waterton Lake Cross the 49th
parallel on a boat cruise with the
opportunity to hike back into
Canada afterwards. (p227)

Hiking ROBERT MCGOUEY / GETTY IMAGES ©

Healy Pass Multi-terrain hike

through forest and meadows to a
pass with expansive views across
Alberta and British Columbia.
(p59)
Highline Trail A sometimes ver-
tiginous, always spectacular trail
that traverses Glacier’s unique
geological formations. (p182)
Cory Pass Loop A knuckle-
whitening adventure-hike a
stone’s throw from the urban
comfort of Banff Town. (p57)
Lake Agnes & the Beehives
Moderate trek to a wonderful
backcountry teahouse perched
Top: A white-tailed deer in Vermilion Lakes (p90), Banff National Park
above the scenic splendor of
Lake Louise. (p62) Bottom: A dogsled team racing on the trails of Canmore Nordic Centre (p117)

Skyline Trail Rated by many as
one of the best multiday hikes
in Canada, with fantastic Jasper
views and a pleasant chalet for
overnighting. (p146)
Carthew-Alderson Trail One
of the finest above-the-treeline
hikes in North America through
an ethereal world of lakes,
passes and peaks. (p219)
Hot Springs
Cave & Basin National
Historic Site The first springs to
be discovered in the Rockies are
now inaccessible to bathers to
protect the critically endangered
Banff Springs snail. (p89)
Banff Upper Hot Springs The
national park’s oldest geother-
mal spa is still its most popular.
Come early in the morning
or late at night to dodge the
crowds. (p88)
Radium Hot Springs Twin pools
to indulge in, both with wonder-
ful mountain views on every
side – and the water is odorless!
(p129)
Miette Hot Springs Jasper’s
natural springs offer a much
quieter alternative to Banff; they
are also the region’s hottest.
(p163)
Quiet Spots
Tonquin Valley No road access
means guaranteed tranquillity in
this remote Jasper valley. (p148)
Sunshine Meadows The high-
altitude trails of these mountain
meadows feel empty even on
the busiest summer days. (p92)
Consolation Lakes These twin
tarns are less than an hour’s
walk from Moraine Lake, but feel
a world away from the tourist
bustle. (p60)
Two Medicine Valley No hotels,
no restaurants, but plenty of
wildlife and practically zero
crowds. (p197)
Kananaskis Country Rela-
tively few people explore the
provincial parks that make up
K-Country, so you’ll probably
just be sharing the trails with
the locals. (p121)
History & Heritage
Banff Park Museum A wild
menagerie of stuffed beasts
and animal heads adorns the
walls of Banff’s oldest museum.
(p86)
Whyte Museum of the Canadi-
an Rockies Mountain art takes
centre stage at this excellent
museum in Banff. (p86)
Native American Speaks Regu-
larly held at the St Mary Visitor
Center in Glacier. (p205)
Spiral Tunnels Train enthusiasts
will find plenty to interest them
in Yoho’s ingenious railway route
across the Rockies. (p125)
Buffalo Nations Luxton
Museum This Banff museum
has some intriguing examples of
First Nations costume, art and
craftwork. (p90)
Many Glacier Hotel Classic
example of Glacier’s woody
‘parkitecture’ building style dat-
ing from 1915. (p203)
Prince of Wales Hotel This
gabled Swiss-style architec-
tural beauty, set on a promontory
overlooking Upper Waterton Lake,
evokes the Empire spirit. (p229)
Off-the-Grid
Accommodations
Skoki Lodge Ski lodge dating
from 1930s near Lake Louise
that offers afternoon tea, great
food and comfortable rustic
rooms. (p106)
Sperry Chalet A historic Glacier
landmark built in 1913 with no
23
lights, heat, water or road
access – but memorable
dinners. (p203)
Assiniboine Lodge Cozy
backcountry lodge offering heli-
copter transfers, warm showers
PL A N YO U R TRI P I F Y O U L I K E . . .
and a sauna! (p128)
Granite Park Chalet Historic
cook-your-own-meals lodge on
Glacier’s spectacular Highline
Trail, built by Great Northern
Railway in 1914. (p203)
Shovel Pass Lodge Jasper’s
oldest backcountry lodge sits
halfway along its finest trail –
the Skyline. (p168)
Tonquin Valley Backcountry
Lodge Ski in, hike in or ride a
horse: this rustic heaven next to
Amethyst Lake is 24km from the
nearest road. (p168)
Winter Activities
Downhill skiing Three ski areas
in Banff and one in Jasper offer
nearly 10,000 acres of dry white
powder for skiers. (p36)
Ice-climbing The raging torrent
of Maligne Canyon transforms
into an eerie ice domain when
the temperature dips below
zero. (p162)
Skating Summer boating
lakes become winter skating
rinks with a good selection in
Jasper, including Pyramid Lake.
(p161)
Cross-country skiing Can-
more’s Nordic Centre hosted
the 1988 Winter Olympics and
its cross-country ski facilities
remain top-notch. (p117)
Snowshoeing Guided snowshoe
walks around Apgar Village are
one of a few winter options
available in low-key Glacier
National Park. (p193)
Dogsledding Travel in the man-
ner of Canada’s early explorers
pulled by a team of huskies in
Canmore. (p119)
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
24
Month by Month
TOP EVENTS
Banff Summer Arts
Festival, August
North American
Indian Days, July
Jasper Dark Sky
Festival, October
Snow Days, January
Canmore Highland
Games, September
January
Chilly temperatures and
crisp snow transform the
mountains into an eerily
quiet white wilderness,
except for the slopes
around Banff and Jasper,
which are crammed with
skiers and snowboarders.
1 Ice Magic
During this annual compe-
tition, held at the Fairmont
Lake Louise, teams of ice
carvers battle it out to cre-
ate sculptures fashioned
from 136kg (300lb) blocks
of ice.
z Snow Days
Block parties, snow-sliding
events, big-name bands
and a huge game of street
hockey characterize this
celebration of all things
snowy in downtown Banff.
z Jasper in January
Jasper’s atmospheric win-
ter festival hosts plenty
of family-friendly events,
including cross-country
skiing, sleigh rides, skating
and a chili cook-off.
February
Winter holds the moun-
tains in an icy grip, with
frequent snowfalls and
sub-zero temperatures still
the norm.
z Canmore Winter
Carnival
This boisterous festival
attempts to raise the winter
spirits with log-sawing, ice-
carving and beard-growing
contests, but the Trapper’s
Ball is the highlight.
March
Little has changed in the
mountains by March:
snow and ice still cloak the
landscape, with the spring
thaw still months away.
z Jasper Pride
Festival
Wrap yourself in a rainbow
flag and hit the ski slopes for
this four-day LGBT–themed
party (www.jasperpride.
ca). Save time and energy to
hit the town afterwards for
special outdoor events, film
screenings and – to cap it all
off – a drag show.
April
Late April sees the first
hints of spring – snowmelt
at lower elevations and the
odd warm sunny day – but
don’t put away the balaclava
just yet.
1 Big Mountain
Ski Annual Furniture
Races
Settees with skis, beds on
sleds and even improvised
toilets take to the slopes in
this zany downhill furniture
race at Montana’s Whitefish
Mountain Resort.
June
The summer season is
usually underway by
mid-June, with ski areas
reopening to host warm-
weather activities such
as climbing, hiking and
cycling. Alpine flower
meadows unfurl their first
blooms in late June.
2 Waterton
Wildflower Festival
This nine-day event (www.
watertonwildflowers.com)
in Alberta’s ‘hidden secret’
park is over a decade old
and offers photography

workshops and guided
walks through the freshly
carpeted flower meadows,
with accompanying experts
identifying the various
species.
July
Summer settles in by July,
and everyone starts to look
forward to long days of
hiking, cycling and other
outdoor activities. Colorful
blooms blanket mountain
meadows, and most trails
are open.
z Canada Day
Food booths, fireworks and
outdoor concerts take place
beneath the maple-leaf flag
in a hot flush of patriotic
pride. Look out for ebullient
street processions in Banff
and Jasper on July 1.
1 North American
Indian Days
The largest of several
celebrations held on the
Blackfeet Indian Reserva-
tion throughout the year,
this event has displays of
traditional drumming and
dancing, and the crowning
of the year’s Miss Blackfeet.
August
The warmest month of
the year coincides with
a host of special events,
as well as the Rockies’
busiest tourist season.
The weather is mostly hot
and dry, but watch out for
thunderstorms.
3 Banff Summer
Arts Festival
Culture takes center stage
for this month-long show-
case of artistic activity at
the Banff Centre, hosting
everything from opera,
theater and street perform-
ance to art exhibitions. It
kicks off in late July and
runs through August.
1 Jasper Heritage
Rodeo
Since 1926 bull-riders,
steer-wrestlers and calf-
ropers have been congre-
gating in Jasper for this
annual hoedown and rodeo
(www.jasperheritagerodeo.
com), held in mid-August.
September
Fall brings a blaze of color
to the mountain parks,
making it one of the most
spectacular seasons for
hiking – especially now
the summer crowds have
left for home. Days remain
warm, but the nights are
getting chilly.
3 Banff
International String
Quartet Competition
A world-famous contest for
the cream of the world’s
classical string quartets,
held at the Banff Centre
every three years (next in
2016).
z Canmore
Highland Games
Canmore celebrates its
Scottish roots with a day
of caber-tossing, piping,
drumming, sheepdog trials
and a traditional ceilidh to
round things off (www.
canmorehighlandgames.ca).
2 Lake Louise
WonderFall Festival
Lake Louise hosts a series
of events to mark the ar-
rival of fall when its famous
larch trees turn a mellow
shade of yellow. Happen-
ings include guided walks
25
and photography exhibi-
tions, and many local
restaurants present special
fall-themed menus.
October
PL A N YO U R TRI P M o n t h b y M o n t h
The seasonal interval
between the end of summer
and the start of the ski
season means fewer crowds
and lower hotel rates.
3 Jasper Dark
Sky Festival
Introduced in 2011, this
annual event (www.jasper
darksky.travel) celebrates
Jasper’s status as a Dark
Sky Preserve with classical
concerts under the stars and
talks at the new planetarium
from visiting astronomers
and astronauts.
November
Winter is knocking on the
door in November, which
usually sees the first
snowfall of the season and
the opening of some of the
area’s higher elevation ski
resorts.
3 Banff Mountain
Film & Book Festival
Since the mid-1970s, this
seven-day film and litera-
ture festival (www.banff
centre.ca/mountainfestival)
has celebrated the spirit
of mountain adventure
through films, videos, read-
ings and lectures.
z Winterstart
This Banff street party is
popular with the snow-
boarding and winter-sports
crowd, and includes the
Ski Big Three Rail Jam and
Santa’s Parade of Lights.
 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
26

Itineraries
Jasper •
#
É

# Icefields Parkway
•
É

•
#
Banff
É

CANADA

Waterton Lakes
•
#
É

USA
Glacier •
#

2 KS Rocky Mountain Road Trip

WEE

This once-in-a-lifetime trip takes in four parks and covers pretty much everything the
Rocky Mountains have to offer.
Start out with three days exploring Glacier and the magnificent mountain scenery
around Going-to-the-Sun Rd, warming up with some short hikes around Many Glacier.
On day four, head north across the Canadian border for Waterton Lakes and a hike
along the iconic Carthew-Alderson Trail. Spend the next day driving north to Banff, your
base for the next four days. How you divide the time is up to you, but make sure you fac-
tor in the gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain, wildlife spotting around Vermilion Lakes
and the Bow Valley Parkway, a boat trip across Lake Minnewanka, and at least one day
hike. Day 10 is set aside for more mind-blowing scenery around Lake Louise and Moraine
Lake, followed on day 11 by a drive up the Icefields Parkway – it won’t take long for you
to realize why it’s often dubbed the world’s most spectacular road. Round the trip off with
three days in Jasper, including a cruise on Maligne Lake, a day hike, a ride on the Jasper
Skytram and a dip in Miette Hot Springs.
 27

Icefields Parkway •
#
÷
#

É
Burgess Shale •
# Lake Louise Village Banff
•
#
•
# National
Park
Lake Louise

É
É
Castle
Moraine Lake •
# # Lookout
•
# Golden É C-Level
• ÷
# Lake

PL A N YO U R TRI P I t i n e r a r i e s
Cirque •# Minnewanka
Yoho •
# •
#
National Johnston
É

É
Park Canyon •
#

É
Bow Valley
É •
#
Stanley •
#
Glacier Parkway É Banff Town
É
•
#
Sunshine
÷
# Meadows
Kootenay
National
Park

É
É

Radium
Hot Beyond Banff
Springs Banff Essentials
•
#

1 K
Beyond Banff 5
S
Banff Essentials
WEE DAY

This itinerary combines day hiking around
Banff with a side trip into the neighboring
(quieter) national parks in British Columbia.
For the first few days, base yourself in
Banff Town and spend the time breaking
in those boots: you could hike up to a hid-
den icefield at the C-Level Cirque, admire
the Bow Valley from Castle Lookout, or
trek through the colorful wildflowers of
Sunshine Meadows.
From Banff, head west into Kootenay
National Park. This is one of the most
fire-prone areas of the Rockies: you’ll still
be able to see the damage wrought by the
massive 2003 burn. Take the time to hike
up to Stanley Glacier before chilling in
the ‘hot’ and ‘cool’ pools of Radium Hot
Springs, both fed from a volcanic spring
hidden deep beneath the mountainside.
From Radium, the route loops north via
Golden, a lively little town. From here, the
road heads east along the Kicking Horse
Valley into Yoho National Park, where
you can spend the remaining few days
admiring the sights: don’t miss Emerald
Lake, Takakkaw Falls and a guided walk to
the fossil fields of the Burgess Shale.
This five-day itinerary squeezes in Banff’s
key sights, with the emphasis on sight-
seeing rather than hiking.
Kick off with a day exploring Banff
Town, a lively mini-metropolis with a cos-
mopolitan mix of shops, bistros, pubs and
museums. Check in for some chateau luxury
at the historic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel,
followed by a day exploring Lake Min-
newanka, canoeing on the Bow River and
relaxing in the Upper Hot Springs Pool.
On day three, drive out of Banff and
detour off the Trans-Canada Hwy and
onto the Bow Valley Parkway. Keep your
eyes peeled for wildlife, and don’t miss the
famous waterfalls of Johnston Canyon.
By mid-afternoon, you’ll reach iconic Lake
Louise and nearby Moraine Lake, both
renowned for their sapphire-blue waters
and stunning mountain settings. Spend day
four stretching your legs on the dramatic
trail along the Plain of Six Glaciers.
On day five, drive along the breath-
taking Icefields Parkway, passing jagged
peaks, mighty glaciers and sparkling lakes
en route to Num-Ti-Jah Lodge, one of the
Rockies’ most famous mountain retreats.
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
every man has his own. The word is said to be derived from Sanscrit
and to be etymologically identical with Avatar, the Dyaks regularly
substituting p or b for v. See Rev. J. Perham, op. cit. pp. 133 sqq.; H.
Ling Roth’s Natives of Sarawak and British North Borneo, i. 168 sqq.
48.1 H. Ling Roth, “Low’s Natives of Borneo,” Journal of the
Anthropological Institute, xxi. (1892) pp. 113 sq., 133; compare id.,
ibid. xxii. (1893) p. 24.
48.2 Spenser St. John, Life in the Forests of the Far East, Second
Edition (London, 1863), i. 63 sq.
49.1 Hugh Low, Sarawak (London, 1848), pp. 300 sq.
50.1 Charles Hose and William McDougall, The Pagan Tribes of
Borneo (London, 1912), ii. 196-199.
50.2 Charles Brooke, Ten Years in Sarawak (London, 1866), i. 69
sq.
51.1 A. W. Nieuwenhuis, Quer durch Borneo (Leyden, 1904-1907),
i. 367.
51.2 M. T. H. Perelaer, Ethnographische Beschrijving der Dajaks
(Zalt-Bommel, 1870), pp. 59 sq.
51.3 A. W. Nieuwenhuis, Quer durch Borneo, ii. 99; id., In Centraal
Borneo (Leyden, 1900), ii. 278.
51.4 A. H. F. J. Nusselein, “Beschrijving van het landschap Pasir,”
Bijdragen tot de Taal- Land- en Volkenkunde van Nederlandsch-
Indië, lviii. (1905) p. 538.
51.5 A. Bastian, Indonesien, i. (Berlin, 1884) p. 144.
52.1 G. A. Wilken, Verspreide Geschriften (The Hague, 1912), ii.
335 (“Huwelijken tusschen bloedverwanten,” p. 26).
52.2 B. F. Matthes, “Over de âdá’s of gewoonten der Makassaren
en Boegineezen,” Verslagen en Mededeelingen der Koninklijke
Akademie van Wetenschappen, Afdeeling Letterkunde, Derde
Reeks, ii. (Amsterdam, 1885) p. 182.
52.3 Digest, xlviii. 9.9, “Poena parricidii more majorum haec
instituta est, ut parricida virgis sanguineis verberatus deinde culleo
insuatur cum cane, gallo gallinaceo et vipera et simia: deinde in
mare profundum culleus jactatur.” Compare Valerius Maximus, i. 1.
13; Professor J. E. B. Mayor’s note on Juvenal, viii. 214. If the view
suggested above is correct, the scourging of the criminal to the
effusion of blood (virgis sanguineis verberatus) must have been a
later addition to the original penalty, unless indeed some provision
were made for catching the blood before it fell on the ground.
53.1 A. C. Kruijt, “Eenige aanteekeningen omtrent de Toboengkoe
en de Tomori,” Mededeelingen van wege het Nederlandsche
Zendelinggenootschap, xliv. (1900) p. 235.
53.2 A. C. Kruijt, “Van Posso naar Mori,” Mededeelingen van wege

het Nederlandsche Zendelinggenootschap, xliv. (1900) p. 162.

53.3 N. Adriani en Alb. C. Kruijt, De Bare’e-sprekende Toradja’s van

Midden-Celebes, i. (Batavia, 1912) p. 187.

54.1 Hissink, “Nota van toelichting, betreffende de zelbesturende

landschappen Paloe, Dolo, Sigi, en Beromaroe,” Tijdschrift voor

Indische Taal- Land- en Volkenkunde, liv. (1912), p. 115.
54.2 M. J. van Baarda, “Fabelen, Verhalen en Overleveringen der
Galelareezen,” Bijdragen tot de Taal- Land- en Volkenkunde van
Nederlandsch-Indië, xlv. (1895) p. 514. In a letter to me of 14th
March 1909 Sir John Rhŷs compares a Welsh expression, “Rain
through sunshine, the devil going on his wife.” He adds: “I do not
think I ever heard it except when it was actually raining during
sunshine. I can now see that instead of ar i wraig the original must
have been ar i fam ‘on his mother.’ In fact I am not at all sure but that
I have heard it so.”
54.3 F. S. A. de Clerq, Bijdragen tot de kennis der Residentie
Ternate (Leyden, 1890), p. 132.
55.1 O. Dapper, Description de l’Afrique (Amsterdam, 1686), p.
326; R. E. Dennett, At the Back of the Black Man’s Mind (London,
1906), pp. 53, 67-71.
56.1 R. E. Dennett, op. cit. p. 52.
56.2 A. C. Hollis, The Nandi, their Language and Folk-lore (Oxford,
1909), p. 76.
56.3 Rev. E. Casalis, The Basutos (London, 1861), p. 252.
56.4 Rev. E. Casalis, The Basutos, p. 267. The writer tells us (pp.

255 sq.) that “death with all that immediately precedes or follows it, is
in the eyes of these people the greatest of all defilements. Thus the
sick, persons who have touched or buried a corpse, or who have dug
the grave, individuals who inadvertently walk over or sit upon a
grave, the near relatives of a person deceased, murderers, warriors
who have killed their enemies in battle, are all considered impure.”
No doubt all such persons would also be prohibited from handling
the corn.
57.1 Edward Westermarck, Ceremonies and Beliefs connected with
Agriculture, Certain Dates of the Solar Year, and the Weather in
Morocco (Helsingfors, 1913), p. 46.
57.2 E. Westermarck, op. cit. p. 54; compare pp. 17, 23, 47.
57.3 C. G. Seligmann, s.v. “Dinka,” in Dr. J. Hastings’s
Encyclopaedia of Religion and Ethics, iv. (Edinburgh, 1911) p. 709.
57.4 Henri A. Junod, “Les conceptions physiologiques des Bantou
Sud-Africains et leurs tabous,” Revue d’ Ethnographie et de
Sociologie, i. (1910) p. 146 note 2.
59.1 Henri A. Junod, The Life of a South African Tribe (Neuchatel,

1912-1913), ii. 60-62.

59.2 A. van Gennep, Tabou et Totémisme à Madagascar (Paris,

1904), pp. 342 sq., quoting the evidence of M. Gabriel Ferrand.

Similar testimony was given to me verbally by M. Ferrand at Paris,
19th April, 1910. Compare Gabriel Ferrand, Les Musulmans à
Madagascar et aux Iles Comores, Deuxième Partie (Paris, 1893),
pp. 20 sq.
60.1 In Fiji the rite of circumcision used to be followed by sexual
orgies in which brothers and sisters appear to have been
intentionally coupled. See Rev. Lorimer Fison, “The Nanga, or
Sacred Stone Enclosure of Wainimala, Fiji,” Journal of the
Anthropological Institute, xiv. (1885) pp. 27-30, with the note of Sir
Edward B. Tylor on pp. 28 sq.; Totemism and Exogamy, ii. 145-148.
Such periods of general licence accorded to the whole community
are perhaps best explained as temporary revivals of an old custom
of sexual communism. But this explanation seems scarcely
applicable to cases like those cited in the text, where the licence is
not granted to the whole people but enjoined on a few individuals
only in special circumstances. As to other apparent cases of
reversion to primitive sexual communism, see Totemism and
Exogamy, i. 311 sqq.
 60.2 Job xxxi. 11 sq. (Revised Version).
60.3 ‫ְּת כּןָא ה‬. See Hebrew and English Lexicon, by F. Brown, S. R.

Driver, and Ch. A. Briggs (Oxford, 1906), p. 100.

61.1 Genesis xii. 10-20, xx. 1-18.
61.2 Leviticus xviii. 24 sq.
61.3 Sophocles, Oedipus Tyrannus, 22 sqq., 95 sqq.
61.4 Tacitus, Annals, xii. 4 and 8.
62.1 See The Magic Art and the Evolution of Kings, i. 12, 14 sqq.
62.2 G. Keating, History of Ireland, translated by J. O’Mahony (New
York, 1857), pp. 337 sq.; P. W. Joyce, Social History of Ancient
Ireland (London, 1903), ii. 512 sq.
62.3 “Corc means croppy or cropped: in this instance the name
refers to the bearer’s ears, and the verb used as to the action of his
brother maiming him is ro-chorc.”
63.1 (Sir) John Rhŷs, Celtic Heathendom (London and Edinburgh,

1888), pp. 308 sq., referring to the Book of the Dun, 54a.
64.1 Laws of Manu, viii. 371 sq., translated by G. Bühler, pp. 318
sq. (Sacred Books of the East, vol. xxv.). Compare Gautama, xxiii.
14 sq., translated by G. Bühler, p. 285 (Sacred Books of the East,
vol. ii.).
64.2 Code of Hammurabi, §§ 129, 157, C. H. W. Johns, Babylonian
and Assyrian Laws, Contracts and Letters (Edinburgh, 1904), pp. 54,
56; Robert W. Rogers, Cuneiform Parallels to the Old Testament
(Oxford, preface dated 1911), pp. 427, 434.
64.3 Deuteronomy xxii. 22.
64.4 Deuteronomy xxii. 20 sq.
64.5 Leviticus xxi. 9.
64.6 Leviticus xx. 14.
65.1 Rev. J. Roscoe, The Baganda (London, 1911), pp. 261 sq.
65.2 Rev. J. Roscoe, op. cit. p. 262. As to the totemic clans, see id.
pp. 133 sqq. One clan (the Lung-fish clan) was excepted from the
rule.
65.3 Sir Harry Johnston, The Uganda Protectorate (London, 1904),
ii. 719.
 66.1 Sir Harry Johnston, op. cit. ii. 746 sq.
66.2 A. C. Hollis, The Nandi (Oxford, 1909), p. 76.
66.3 Werner Munzinger, Ostafrikanische Studien (Schaffhausen,

1864), p. 243.
66.4 W. Munzinger, op. cit. p. 322. However, the child of an

unmarried slave woman is brought up; the father pays for its nurture.
66.5 H. S. Stannus, “Notes on some Tribes of British Central

Africa,” Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, xl. (1910) p.

290.
67.1 Cullen Gouldsbury and Hubert Sheane, The Great Plateau of
Northern Rhodesia (London, 1911), p. 57.
67.2 Peter Kolben, The Present State of the Cape of Good Hope,
Second Edition (London, 1738), i. 157. For more examples of the
death penalty inflicted for breaches of sexual morality in Africa, see
A. H. Post, Afrikanische Jurisprudenz (Olbenburg and Leipsic, 1887),
ii. 69 sqq.
68.1 G. J. van Dongen, “De Koeboes,” Bijdragen tot de Taal- Land-
en Volkenkunde van Nederlandsch-Indië, lxiii. (1910) p. 293.
68.2 R. van Eck, “Schetsen van het eiland Bali,” Tijdschrift voor
Nederlandsch Indië, Nieuwe Serie, viii. (1879) pp. 370 sq.; Julius
Jacobs, Eenigen Tijd onder de Baliërs (Batavia, 1883), p. 126.
68.3 See above, pp. 52 sq.
68.4 Hoorweg, “Nota bevattende eenige gegevens betreffende het
landschap Mamoedjoe,” Tijdschrift voor Indische Taal- Land- en
Volkenkunde, lxiii. (1911) p. 95.
68.5 G. A. Wilken, Verspreide Geschriften (The Hague, 1912), ii.
481.
69.1 J. S. G. Gramberg, “Schets der Kesam, Semendo, Makakauw
en Blalauw,” Tijdschrift voor Indische Taal- Land- en Volkenkunde,
xv. (1866) pp. 456-458. Compare G. G. Batten, Glimpses of the
Eastern Archipelago (Singapore, 1894), pp. 105 sq.
69.2 G. A. Wilken, Verspreide Geschriften, ii. 481 sq.
69.3 Franz Junghuhn, Die Battaländer auf Sumatra (Berlin, 1847),
ii. 147, 156 sq.
 70.1 A. R. Wallace, The Malay Archipelago, Sixth Edition (London,
1877), pp. 173 sq.
71.1 See above, pp. 46-54.
72.1 James Dawson, Australian Aborigines (Melbourne, Sydney,
and Adelaide, 1881), p. 28.
73.1 A. W. Howitt, Native Tribes of South-East Australia (London,
1904), pp. 222-224.
74.1 Walter E. Roth, Ethnological Studies among the North-West-
Central Queensland Aborigines (Brisbane and London, 1897), p.
181.
74.2 A. W. Howitt, Native Tribes of South-East Australia, pp. 264,

266.
74.3 A. W. Howitt, Native Tribes of South-East Australia, pp. 246
sq.
74.4 Mrs. Daisy M. Bates, “The Marriage Laws and some Customs
of the West Australian Aborigines,” Victorian Geographical Journal,
xxiii.-xxiv. (1905-1906) p. 42. The statement in the text was made by
a settler who had lived in the Tableland district, inland from
Roeburne, for twenty years.
75.1 A. W. Howitt, Native Tribes of South-East Australia, p. 208.
Similarly among tribes on the Hunter River “a man is not permitted to
speak to his wife’s mother, but can do so through a third party. In
former days it was death to speak to her, but now a man doing so is
only severely reprimanded and has to leave the camp for a certain
time” (A. W. Howitt, op. cit. p. 267).
75.2 See for example (Sir) E. B. Tylor, “On a method of

investigating the Development of Institutions,” Journal of the

Anthropological Institute, xviii. (1889) pp. 246-248; Salomon
Reinach, “Le Gendre et la Belle-Mère,” L’Anthropologie, xxii. (1911)
pp. 649-662; id., Cultes, Mythes et Religions, iv. (Paris, 1912) pp.
130-147.
75.3 In Totemism and Exogamy (Index, s.vv. “Avoidance” and
“Mother-in-law”) will be found a collection of examples. In what
follows I abstain for the most part from citing instances which have
been adduced by me before.
 76.1 Rev. John H. Weeks, Among Congo Cannibals (London,
1913), pp. 133 sq. Compare id., “Anthropological Notes on the
Bangala of the Upper Congo,” Journal of the Royal Anthropological
Institute, xl. (1910) pp. 367 sq.
77.1 Father M. A. Condon, “Contribution to the Ethnography of the

Basoga-Batamba, Uganda Protectorate,” Anthropos, vi. (1911) pp.

377 sq.
78.1 C. W. Hobley, Ethnology of A-Kamba and other East African
Tribes (Cambridge, 1910), pp. 103, 104.
78.2 Father Eugene Hurel, “Religion et vie domestique des
Bakerewe,” Anthropos, vi. (1911) p. 287.
79.1 Father Picarda, “Autour du Mandera, Notes sur l’Ouzigoua,
l’Oukwéré et l’Oudoé (Zanquebar),” Les Missions Catholiques, xviii.
(1886) p. 286.
79.2 H. S. Stannus, “Notes on Some Tribes of British Central
Africa,” Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, xl. (1910) p.
307.
79.3 H. S. Stannus, op. cit. p. 309.
79.4 Cullen Gouldsbury and Hubert Sheane, The Great Plateau of
Northern Rhodesia (London, 1911), p. 259.
79.5 “The Angoni-Zulus,” British Central Africa Gazette, No. 86,
April 30th, 1898, p. 2.
80.1 Henri A. Junod, Les Ba-Ronga (Neuchâtel, 1898), pp. 79 sq.;
id., The Life of a South African Tribe (Neuchatel, 1912-1913), i. 230-
232.
80.2 Henri A. Junod, The Life of a South African Tribe, i. 239.
81.1 Hermann Tönjes, Ovamboland, Land, Leute, Mission (Berlin,
1911), p. 133.
81.2 A. C. Hollis, “A Note on the Masai System of Relationship and
other Matters connected therewith,” Journal of the Royal
Anthropological Institute, xl. (1910) p. 481.
81.3 Werner Munzinger, Sitten und Recht der Bogos (Winterthur,
1859), p. 63.
81.4 G. Casati, Ten Years in Equatoria (London and New York,
1891), i. 69.
 81.5 Travels of an Arab Merchant [Mohammed Ibn Omar El-Tounsy]
in Soudan, abridged from the French by Bayle St. John (London,
1854), pp. 97 sq.
82.1 J. Kreemer, “De Loeboes in Mandailing,” Bijdragen tot de Taal-

Land- en Volkenkunde van Nederlandsch-Indië, lxvi. (1912) p. 324.

82.2 Stefan Lehner, “Bukaua,” in R. Neuhauss’s Deutsch Neu-

Guinea (Berlin, 1911), iii. 426 sq.

83.1 J. Baegert, “An Account of the Aboriginal Inhabitants of the

Californian Peninsula,” Annual Report of the Board of Regents of the

Smithsonian Institution for the year 1863, p. 368. This and the
following American cases have already been cited by me in
Totemism and Exogamy, iv. 314 sq.
83.2 Alvar Nuñez Cabeça de Vaca, Relation et Naufrages (Paris,
1837), pp. 109 sq. (in Ternaux-Compans’ Voyages, Relations, et
Mémoires originaux pour servir à l’Histoire de la Découverte de
l’Amérique). The original of this work was published in Spanish at
Valladolid in 1555.
83.3 Brasseur de Bourbourg, Histoire des Nations civilisées du
Mexique et de l’Amérique-Centrale (Paris, 1857-1859), ii. 52 sq.
83.4 G. Klemm, Allgemeine Culturgeschichte der Menschheit
(Leipsic, 1843-1852), ii. 77.
83.5 J. B. du Tertre, Histoire generale des Isles de S. Christophe,
de la Guadeloupe, de la Martinique et autres dans l’Amerique (Paris,
1654), p. 419. A similar, but rather briefer, account of the custom is
given by De la Borde, who may have borrowed from Du Tertre. See
De la Borde, “Relation de l’origine, mœurs, coustumes, réligion,
guerres et voyages des Caraibes, sauvages des Isles Antilles de
l’Amerique,” p. 56 (in Recueil de divers Voyages faits en Afrique et
en l’Amerique qui n’ont pas esté encore publiez, Paris, 1684).
84.1 Edmond Reuel Smith, The Araucanians (London, 1855), p.
217.
84.2 We have met with a custom of avoidance between father and
daughter among the Akamba (above, p. 78). For more examples see
Totemism and Exogamy, Index, s.v. “Avoidance,” vol. iv. p. 326.
85.1 Among those who incline more or less definitely to accept this
view are the late Dr. A. W. Howitt (“Notes on some Australian Class
Systems,” Journal of the Anthropological Institute, xii. (1883) pp. 502
sq.), Dr. R. H. Codrington (see below, p. 86), M. Joustra (see below,
p. 85), and the Rev. J. H. Weeks (see above, p. 76). Three of these
writers are experienced missionaries who are only concerned to
record the facts, and have no theories to maintain.
85.2 Totemism and Exogamy, ii. 188 sq. The authority for these
statements is M. Joustra, “Het leven, de zeden en gewoonten der
Bataks,” Mededeelingen van wege het Nederlandsche
Zendelinggenootschap, xlvi. (1902) pp. 391 sq.
86.1 R. H. Codrington, D.D., The Melanesians (Oxford, 1891), p.
232.
87.1 R. H. Codrington, op. cit. p. 43.
88.1 Max Girschner, “Die Karolineninsel Námōluk und ihre
Bewohner,” Baessler-Archiv, ii. (1912) p. 164.
90.1 P. G. Peckel, “Die Verwandtschaftsnamen des mittleren
Neumecklenburg,” Anthropos, iii. (1908) pp. 467, 470 sq.
90.2 P. G. Peckel, op. cit. pp. 463, 467.
90.3 Rev. J. Roscoe, The Baganda (London, 1911), pp. 128 sq.,
131; Sir Harry Johnston, The Uganda Protectorate (London, 1904),
ii. 695. The latter writer says generally: “Cousins cannot enter the
same house, and must not eat out of the same dish. A man cannot
marry his cousin.” But from Mr. Roscoe’s researches it appears that
a man has only to avoid certain cousins, called kizibwewe, that is,
the daughters either of his father’s sisters or of his mother’s brothers.
91.1 Rev. J. Roscoe, op. cit. p. 129. Among the women with whom

man was forbidden to have sexual relations under pain of death

were (besides his cousins mentioned above) his father’s sister, his
daughter, and his wife’s sister’s daughter. See J. Roscoe, op. cit. pp.
131, 132. The reason alleged for avoiding a mother-in-law, namely,
because a man has seen her daughter’s nakedness (compare
above, p. 76) is probably a later misinterpretation of the custom.
91.2 G. McCall Theal, Records of South-Eastern Africa, vii. (1901)
pp. 431, 432. The writer adds: “Among the tribes within the Cape
Colony at the present time the differences are as follows:—
“Xosas, Tembus, and Pondos: marry no relative by blood, however
distant, on either father’s or mother’s side.
 “Hlubis and others commonly called Fingos: may marry the
daughter of mother’s brother and other relatives on that side, but not
on father’s side.
“Basuto, Batlaro, Batlapin, and Barolong: very frequently marry
cousins on father’s side, and know of no restrictions beyond actual
sisters.”
92.1 Henri A. Junod, The Life of a South African Tribe (Neuchatel,
1912-1913), i. 243-245. As to the rules concerning the marriage of
cousins in this tribe, see id. i. 241 sq.
92.2 Heinrich Claus, Die Wagogo (Leipsic and Berlin, 1911), p. 58.
93.1 C. W. Hobley, “Kikuyu Customs and Beliefs,” Journal of the
Royal Anthropological Institute, xl. (1910) p. 438.
94.1 See above, pp. 78 sq., 81.
94.2 See above, pp. 80, 81, 84.
94.3 See above, p. 81.
94.4 See above, pp. 44 sqq.
94.5 See below, pp. 102 sqq.
95.1 On the question of the effect of inbreeding see Totemism and
Exogamy, iv. 160 sqq.
95.2 A. H. Huth, The Marriage of Near Kin considered with respect
to the Laws of Nations, the Results of Experience, and the
Teachings of Biology, Second Edition (London, 1887).
96.1 J. Arthur Thomson, article “Consanguinity,” in Dr. James
Hastings’s Encyclopaedia of Religion and Ethics, iv. (Edinburgh,
1911) p. 30.
96.2 André Thevet, La Cosmographie Universelle (Paris, 1575), ii.
933 [967].
97.1 Father P. Schumacher, “Das Eherecht in Ruanda,” Anthropos,
vii. (1912) p. 4.
97.2 H. H. Milman, History of Latin Christianity, New Impression
(London, 1903), ii. 54.
97.3 These particulars as to the Slavonic peoples of the Balkan
peninsula I take from a letter with which Miss M. Edith Durham, one
of our best authorities on these races, was so good as to favour me.
Her letter is dated 116a King Henry’s Road, London, N.W., October
16th, 1909. The stoning of the betrothed couple near Cattaro is
recorded, so Miss Durham tells me, in a Servian book, Narodne
Pripovjetke i Presude, by Vuk Vrcević. For many more examples of
the death penalty and other severe punishments inflicted for sexual
offences, see E. Westermarck, The Origin and Development of Moral
Ideas (London, 1906-1908), ii. 366 sqq., 425 sqq.
98.1 F. S. Krauss, Sitte und Brauch der Südslaven (Vienna, 1885),
pp. 209, 216, 217. Compare F. Demelić, Le Droit Coutumier des
Slaves Méridionaux (Paris, 1876), p. 76.
98.2 F. S. Krauss, op. cit. pp. 208-212, citing as his authority Vuk
Vrčević, Niz srpskih pripovijedaka, pp. 129-137.
98.3 F. S. Krauss, Sitte und Brauch der Südslaven, p. 204.
99.1 For examples of the attempt to multiply edible plants in this
fashion, see The Magic Art and the Evolution of Kings, ii. 97 sqq.
The reported examples of similar attempts to assist the multiplication
of animals seem to be rarer. For some instances see George Catlin,
O-Kee-Pa, a Religious Ceremony and other Customs of the
Mandans (London, 1867), Folium Reservatum, pp. i.-iii.
(multiplication of buffaloes); History of the Expedition under the
Command of Captains Lewis and Clark to the Sources of the
Missouri (London, 1905), i. 209 sq. (multiplication or attraction of
buffaloes); Maximilian Prinz zu Wied, Reise in das innere Nord-
America (Coblentz, 1839-1841), ii. 181, 263-267 (multiplication or
attraction of buffaloes); Reports of the Cambridge Anthropological
Expedition to Torres Straits, v. (1904) p. 271 (multiplication of
turtles); J. Roscoe, “Further Notes on the Manners and Customs of
the Baganda,” Journal of the Anthropological Institute, xxxii. (1902)
p. 53; id., The Baganda (London, 1911), p. 144 (multiplication of
edible green locusts); S. Gason, in Journal of the Anthropological
Institute, xxiv. (1895) p. 174 (multiplication of edible rats); id., “The
Dieyerie Tribe,” in Native Tribes of South Australia (Adelaide, 1879),
p. 280 (multiplication of dogs and snakes).
 100.1 I have given my reasons for thinking so elsewhere (The
Magic Art and the Evolution of Kings, i. 220 sqq.).
103.1 Rev. J. Roscoe, The Baganda (London, 1911), p. 262.
103.2 Rev. J. Roscoe, op. cit. p. 55. Compare id., “Further Notes on
the Manners and Customs of the Baganda,” Journal of the
Anthropological Institute, xxxii. (1902) p. 39.
103.3 Rev. J. Roscoe, The Baganda, p. 262.
103.4 Rev. J. Roscoe, op. cit. pp. 72, 102.
104.1 Cullen Gouldsbury and Hubert Sheane, The Great Plateau of

Northern Rhodesia (London, 1911), pp. 57, 178.

104.2 Henri A. Junod, “Les Conceptions Physiologiques des Bantou

Sud-Africains et leurs Tabous,” Revue d’Ethnographie et de

Sociologie, i. (1910) p. 150; id., The Life of a South African Tribe
(Neuchatel, 1912-1913), i. 38 sq.
105.1 Henri A. Junod, “Les Conceptions Physiologiques des

Bantous Sud-Africains et leurs Tabous,” Revue d’Ethnographie et de

Sociologie, i. (1910) p. 150; id., The Life of a South African Tribe, i.
194 sq.
105.2 C. W. Hobley, “Kikuyu Customs and Beliefs,” Journal of the
Royal Anthropological Institute, xl. (1910) p. 433. A similar state of
ceremonial pollution (thahu) is supposed by the Akikuyu to arise on
many other occasions, which are enumerated by Mr. Hobley (op. cit.
pp. 428-440). See further below, p. 115, note 5.
105.3 H. S. Stannus, “Notes on some Tribes of British Central

Africa,” Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, xl. (1910) p.

305. Compare R. C. F. Maugham, Zambezia (London, 1910), p. 326.
105.4 Max Weiss, Die Völkerstämme im Norden Deutsch-Ostafrikas
(Berlin, 1910), p. 385.
105.5 C. W. Hobley, Ethnology of A-Kamba and other East African
Tribes (Cambridge, 1910), p. 61.
106.1 C. W. Hobley, op. cit. p. 103.
106.2 A. Karasek, “Beiträge zur Kenntniss der Waschambaa,”
Baessler-Archiv, i. (1911) p. 186.
106.3 P. Reichard, Deutsch Ostafrika (Leipsic, 1892), p. 427; H.

Cole, “Notes on the Wagogo of German East Africa,” Journal of the

Anthropological Institute, xxxii. (1902) pp. 318 sq.; A. D’Orbigny,
Voyage dans l’Amérique méridionale, iii. Part i. (Paris and Strasburg,
1844) p. 226; Ivan Petroff, Report on the Population, Industries, and
Resources of Alaska, p. 155.
106.4 C. Lumholtz, Unknown Mexico (London, 1903), ii. 128 sq.
106.5 De Flacourt, Histoire de la Grande Isle Madagascar (Paris,
1658), pp. 97 sq. Compare John Struys, Voiages and Travels
(London, 1684), p. 22; Abbé Rochon, Voyage to Madagascar and
the East Indies, translated from the French (London, 1792), pp. 46
sq.
107.1 Rev. J. Roscoe, The Baganda (London, 1911), pp. 352, 362,
363, sq.
107.2 Rev. John H. Weeks, “Anthropological Notes on the Bangala

of the Upper Congo River,” Journal of the Royal Anthropological

Institute, xl. (1910) p. 413; id., Among Congo Cannibals (London,
1913), p. 224.
107.3 J. R. Swanton, “Contributions to the Ethnology of the Haida,”
p. 56 (The Jesup North Pacific Expedition, Memoir of the American
Museum of Natural History, vol. v. Part i., Leyden and New York,
1905).
107.4 2 Samuel xi.
108.1 “Mr. Farewell’s Account of Chaka, the King of Natal,”
Appendix to W. F. W. Owen’s Narrative of Voyages to explore the
Shores of Africa, Arabia, and Madagascar (London, 1833), ii. 395.
108.2 L. Alberti, De Kaffers (Amsterdam, 1810), p. 171.
108.3 C. Wunenberger, “La Mission et le Royaume de Humbé, sur
les bords du Cunène,” Les Missions Catholiques, xx. (1888), p. 262.
108.4 J. B. Labat, Relation historique de l’Éthiopie occidentale
(Paris, 1732), i. 259 sq.
109.1 Proyart, “History of Loango, Kakongo, and other Kingdoms in
Africa,” in J. Pinkerton’s Voyages and Travels (London, 1808-1814),
xvi. 569.
109.2 J. Kreemer, “De Loeboes in Mandailing,” Bijdragen tot de
Taal- Land- en Volkenkunde van Nederlandsch-Indië, lxvi. (1912) p.
323.
 109.3 P. Rascher, M.S.C., “Die Sulka, ein Beitrag zur Ethnographie
Neu-Pommern,” Archiv für Anthropologie, xxix. (1904) p. 211; R.
Parkinson, Dreissig Jahre in der Südsee (Stuttgart, 1907), pp. 179
sq. In the East Indian island of Buru a man’s death is sometimes
supposed to be due to the adultery of his wife; but apparently the
notion is that the death is brought about rather by the evil magic of
the adulterer than by the act of adultery itself. See J. H. W. van der
Miesen, “Een en ander over Boeroe, inzonderheit wat betreft het
distrikt Waisama, gelegen aan de Z.O. Kust,” Mededeelingen van
wege het Nederlandsche Zendelinggenootschap, xlvi. (1902) pp.
451-454.
110.1 P. A. Talbot, “The Buduma of Lake Chad,” Journal of the

Royal Anthropological Institute, xli. (1911) p. 247.

 Chapter V Notes
112.1 Humboldt, Voyage aux Régions Equinoxiales, viii. 273.
113.1 Alcide d’Orbigny, Voyage dans l’Amérique Méridionale, ii.
(Paris and Strasburg, 1839-1843) pp. 99 sq. As to the thieving
propensities of the Patagonians, the author tells us that “they do not
steal among themselves, it is true; but their parents, from their tender
infancy, teach them to consider theft from the enemy as the base of
their education, as an accomplishment indispensable for every one
who would succeed in life, as a thing ordained by the Evil Spirit, so
much so that when they are reproached for a theft, they always say
that Achekenat-Kanet commanded them so to do” (op. cit. p. 104).
Achekenat-Kanet is the supernatural being who, under various
names, is revered or dreaded by all the Indian tribes of Patagonia.
Sometimes he appears as a good and sometimes as a bad spirit.
See A. d’Orbigny, op. cit. ii. 87.
114.1 Plato, Laws, ix. 8, pp. 865 d-866 a; Demosthenes, xxiii. pp.
643 sq.; Hesychius, s.v. ἀπενιαυτισμός.
114.2 Aeschylus, Choëphor. 1021 sqq., Eumenides, 85 sqq.;
Euripides, Iphig. in Taur. 940 sqq.; Pausanias, ii. 31. 8, viii. 34. 1-4.
114.3 Demosthenes, xxiii. pp. 643 sq.
114.4 Demosthenes, xxiii. pp. 645 sq.; Aristotle, Constitution of
Athens, 57; Pausanias, i. 28. 11; Pollux, viii. 120; Helladius, quoted
by Photius, Bibliotheca, p. 535 a, lines 28 sqq. ed. I. Bekker (Berlin,
1824).
115.1 Plato, Laws, ix. 8, p. 866 C D.
115.2 Polybius, iv. 17-21.
115.3 Plutarch, Praecept. ger. reipub. xvii. 9.
115.4 Pausanias, ii. 31. 8.
115.5 C. W. Hobley, “Kikuyu Customs and Beliefs,” Journal of the

Royal Anthropological Institute, xl. (1910) p. 431. The nature of the

ceremonial pollution (thahu) thus incurred is explained by Mr. Hobley
(op. cit. p. 428) as follows: “Thahu, sometimes called ngahu, is the
word used for a condition into which a person is believed to fall if he
or she accidentally becomes the victim of certain circumstances or
intentionally performs certain acts which carry with them a kind of ill
luck or curse. A person who is thahu becomes emaciated and ill or
breaks out into eruptions or boils, and if the thahu is not removed will
probably die. In many cases this undoubtedly happens by the
process of auto-suggestion, as it never occurs to the Kikuyu mind to
be sceptical on a matter of this kind. It is said that the thahu
condition is caused by the ngoma or spirits of departed ancestors,
but the process does not seem to have been analysed any further.”
See also above, pp. 93, 105.
116.1 Aeschylus, Eumenides, 280 sqq., 448 sqq.; id., quoted by
Eustathius on Homer, Iliad, xix. 254, p. 1183, ἐπιτήδειος ἐδόκει πρὸς
καθαρμὸν ὁ σῦς, ὡς δηλοῖ Αἰσχύλος ἐν τῷ, πρὶν ἂν παλαγμοῖς
αἵματος χοιροκτόνου αὐτός σε χρᾶναι Ζεὺς καταστάξας χεροῖν;
Apollonius Rhodius, Argonaut. iv. 703-717, with the notes of the
scholiast. Purifications of this sort are represented in Greek art. See
my note on Pausanias ii. 31. 8 (vol. iii. pp. 276 sqq.).
116.2 Lieutenant Thomas Shaw, “The Inhabitants of the Hills near
Rajamahall,” Asiatic Researches, Fourth Edition, iv. (London, 1807)
p. 78, compare p. 77.
116.3 See above, pp. 44 sqq.
116.4 Missionary Autenrieth, “Zur Religion der Kamerun-Neger,”

Mitteilungen der geographischen Gesellschaft zu Jena, xii. (1893)

pp. 93 sq.
117.1 V. Solomon, “Extracts from Diaries kept in Car Nicobar,”
Journal of the Anthropological Institute, xxxii. (1902) p. 227.
117.2 See my note on Pausanias, ii. 31. 8 (vol. iii. pp. 276 sqq.).
117.3 This was the view of C. Meiners (Geschichte der Religionen,

Hanover, 1806-1807, ii. 137 sq.), and of E. Rohde (Psyche3,

Tübingen and Leipsic, 1903, ii. 77 sq.).
117.4 καθαίρονται δ᾽ ἄλλως αἵματι μιανόμενοι οἶον εἴ τις εἰς πηλὸν
ἐμβὰς πηλῷ ἀπονίζοιτο, Heraclitus, in H. Diels’s Die Fragmente der
Vorsokratiker, Zweite Auflage, i. (Berlin, 1906) p. 62.
117.5 Pausanias, viii. 34. 3.
 118.1 Rev. J. H. Bernau, Missionary Labours in British Guiana
(London, 1847), pp. 57 sq.; R. Schomburgk, Reisen in Britisch-
Guiana (Leipsic, 1847-1848), ii. 497.
118.2 J. Dumont D’Urville, Voyage autour du monde et à la
recherche de la Pérouse (Paris, 1832-1833), iii. 305.
118.3 John Bradbury, Travels in the Interior of America (Liverpool,
1817), p. 160.
118.4 Pomponius Mela, Chorogr. ii. 12, p. 35, ed. G. Parthey
(Berlin, 1867).
118.5 A. C. Hollis, The Nandi (Oxford, 1909), p. 27.
119.1 Major A. G. Leonard, The Lower Niger and its Tribes (London,
1906), pp. 180, 181 sq.
119.2 Mrs. Leslie Milne, Shans at Home (London, 1910), p. 192.
Among the Shans “in a case of capital punishment more than one
executioner assisted, and each tried to avoid giving the fatal blow, so
that the sin of killing the culprit should fall upon several, each bearing
a part. The unfortunate man was killed by reason of repeated sword
cuts, no one of which was sufficient to kill him, and died rather from
loss of blood than from one fatal blow” (Mrs. Leslie Milne, op. cit. pp.
191 sq.). Perhaps each executioner feared to be haunted by his
victim’s ghost if he actually despatched him.
119.3 Vincenzo Dorsa, La Tradizione greco-latina negli usi e nelle
credenze popolari della Calabria Citeriore (Cosenza, 1884), p. 138.
119.4 J. Liorel, Kabylie du Jurjura (Paris, N.D.), p. 441.
120.1 Lieut.-Colonel J. Shakespear, “The Kuki-Lushai clans,”
Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute, xxxix. (1909) p. 380;
id., The Lushei Kuki Clans (London, 1912), pp. 78 sq.
120.2 J. H. West Sheane, “Wemba Warpaths,” Journal of the
African Society, No. 41 (October, 1911), pp. 31 sq.
120.3 Taboo and the Perils of the Soul, pp. 165 sqq.
120.4 Rev. E. Casalis, The Basutos (London, 1861), p. 258.
121.1 Father Porte, “Les Réminiscences d’un missionnaire du
Basutoland,” Les Missions catholiques, xxviii. (1896) p. 371.
122.1 Psanyi is half-digested grass found in the stomachs of
sacrificed goats (H. A. Junod, The Life of a South African Tribe, ii.
569).
122.2 Henri A. Junod, The Life of a South African Tribe (Neuchâtel,
1912-1913), i. 453-455. I have omitted some of the Thonga words
which Mr. Junod inserts in the text.
123.1 N. Adriani en Alb. C. Kruijt, De Bare’e-sprekende Toradja’s
van Midden-Celebes, i. (Batavia, 1912) p. 239.
123.2 Sir H. Johnston, The Uganda Protectorate (London, 1902), ii.
743 sq.; C. W. Hobley, Eastern Uganda (London, 1902), p. 20.
123.3 Extract from a type-written account of the tribes of Mount
Elgon, by the Hon. Kenneth R. Dundas, which the author kindly sent
to me.
123.4 Sir H. Johnston, op. cit. ii. 794; C. W. Hobley, op. cit. p. 31.
123.5 Pausanias, viii. 34. 3; compare Strabo, xii. 2. 3, p. 535.
124.1 E. Torday and T. A. Joyce, “Notes on the Ethnography of the
Ba-Yaka,” Journal of the Anthropological Institute, xxxvi. (1906) pp.
50 sq.
124.2 J. G. Frazer, “Folk-lore in the Old Testament,” in
Anthropological Essays presented to E. B. Tylor (Oxford, 1907), p.
108.
124.3 “Relation des Natchez,” Recueil de Voyages au Nord, ix. 24
(Amsterdam, 1737); Lettres édifiantes et curieuses, Nouvelle Édition,
vii. (Paris, 1781) p. 26; Charlevoix, Histoire de la Nouvelle France
(Paris, 1744), vi. 186 sq.
125.1 Ch. Keysser, “Aus dem Leben der Kaileute,” in R. Neuhauss’s

Deutsch Neu-Guinea (Berlin, 1911), iii. 147 sq.

125.2 Ch. Keysser, op. cit. p. 132.
126.1 R. E. Guise, “On the Tribes inhabiting the mouth of the
Wanigela River, New Guinea,” Journal of the Anthropological
Institute, xxviii. (1899) pp. 213 sq.
126.2 Rev. J. Owen Dorsey, “Omaha Sociology,” Third Annual
Report of the Bureau of Ethnology (Washington, 1884), p. 369.
127.1 Franz Boas, Chinook Texts (Washington, 1894), p. 258.
128.1 K. Vetter, “Über papuanische Rechtsverhältnisse, wie solche
namentlich bei den Jabim beobachtet wurden,” Nachrichten über
Kaiser Wilhelms-Land und den Bismarck-Archipel, 1897, p. 99; B.
Hagen, Unter den Papuas (Wiesbaden, 1899), p. 254.
128.2 Rev. J. H. Weeks, Among Congo Cannibals (London, 1913),
p. 268; compare id., “Anthropological Notes on the Bangala of the
Upper Congo River,” Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute,
xl. (1910) p. 373.
129.1 C. W. Hobley, “Kikuyu Customs and Beliefs,” Journal of the

Royal Anthropological Intitute, xl. (1910) pp. 438 sq. As to the

sanctity of the fig-tree (mugumu) among the Akikuyu, see Mervyn W.
H. Beech, “The sacred fig-tree of the A-kikuyu of East Africa,” Man,
xiii. (1913) pp. 4-6. Mr. Beech traces the reverence for the tree to the
white milky sap which exudes from it when an incision is made in the
bark. This appears to have suggested to the savages the idea that
the tree is a great source of fertility to men and women, to cattle,
sheep, and goats.
129.2 N. Adriani en Alb. C. Kruijt, De Bare’e-sprekende Toradja’s

van Midden-Celebes, i. (Batavia, 1912) pp. 285, 290 sq. In recent

years the wars between the tribes have been suppressed by the
Dutch Government.
130.1 Compare The Belief in Immortality and the Worship of the
Dead, i. (London, 1913) pp. 136 sq., 278 sq., 468 sq.
130.2 Rev. E. B. Cross, “On the Karens,” Journal of the American

Oriental Society, iv. No. 2 (New York, 1854), pp. 312 sq.
130.3 Bringaud, “Les Karins de la Birmanie,” Les Missions

catholiques, xx. (1888) p. 208.

131.1 W. H. Keating, Narrative of an Expedition to the Sources of

St. Peter’s River (London, 1825), i. 109, quoting Mr. Barron.

131.2 Charlevoix, Histoire de la Nouvelle France (Paris, 1744), vi.

77, 122 sq.; J. F. Lafitau, Mœurs des sauvages amériquains (Paris,

1724), ii. 279.
131.3 H. von Rosenberg, Der malayische Archipel (Leipsic, 1878),

p. 461. Compare J. L. van Hasselt, “Die Papuastämme an der

Geelvinkbai (Neuguinea),” Mitteilungen der geographischen
Gesellschaft zu Jena, ix. (1891) p. 101.
131.4 K. Vetter, “Über papuanische Rechtsverhältnisse,” in
Nachrichten über Kaiser Wilhelms-Land und den Bismarck-Archipel
(1897), p. 94; B. Hagen, Unter den Papuas (Wiesbaden, 1899), p.
266.
131.5 Stefan Lehner, “Bukaua,” in R. Neuhauss’s Deutsch Neu-

Guinea (Berlin, 1911), iii. 444.

131.6 George Brown, D.D., Melanesians and Polynesians (London,

1910), pp. 142, 145.

132.1 John Jackson, in J. E. Erskine’s Journal of a Cruise among

the Islands of the Western Pacific (London, 1853), p. 477.

132.2 C. Wiese, “Beiträge zur Geschichte der Zulu im Norden des
Zambesi,” Zeitschrift für Ethnologie, xxxii. (1900) pp. 197 sq.
132.3 Rev. Samuel Mateer, The Land of Charity, a Descriptive
Account of Travancore and its People (London, 1871), pp. 203 sq.
132.4 E. W. Nelson, “The Eskimo about Bering Strait,” Eighteenth
Annual Report of the Bureau of American Ethnology, Part i.
(Washington, 1899) p. 423.
133.1 Rev. J. Owen Dorsey, “A Study of Siouan Cults,” Eleventh
Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology (Washington, 1894), p.
420.
133.2 Dr. P. H. Brincker, “Character, Sitten, und Gebräuche speciell

der Bantu Deutsch-Südwestafrikas,” Mitteilungen des Seminars für

orientalischen Sprachen zu Berlin, iii. dritte Abteilung (1900), pp. 89
sq.
133.3 Rev. R. H. Nassau, Fetichism in West Africa (London, 1904),

p. 220; M. Abeghian, Der armenische Volksglaube (Leipsic, 1899), p.

11.
133.4 H. A. Rose, “Hindu Birth Observances in the Punjab,” Journal

of the Royal Anthropological Institute, xxxvii. (1907) pp. 225 sq.

133.5 G. F. D’ Penha, “Superstitions and Customs in Salsette,” The

Indian Antiquary, xxviii. (1899) p. 115.

133.6 Census of India, 1911, vol. xiv. Punjab, Part I. (Lahore, 1912)

p. 303. As to these perturbed and perturbing spirits in India, see

further W. Crooke, Popular Religion and Folk-lore of Northern India
(Westminster, 1896), i. 269-274. They are called churel.
134.1 E. M. Gordon, Indian Folk Tales (London, 1908), p. 47.