Itinerary

«Districts of Bohemia and vermouth»

Malasaña&Chueca
 Prado Avenue

 Palace of communications - Antonio Palacios and Otamendi, in 1904

won a national contest for new house of Post and Telegraph (what
brought him fame). Building made in eclectic style.
 Naval Museum of Madrid— is a national museum in Madrid, Spain. It
shows the history of the Spanish Navy since the Catholic Monarchs, in the
15th century, up to the present. It also hosts several navigation
instruments, weapons, maps and paintings. Charles IV of Spain in 1792
decides to create museum of marine, which apart of library will include
all natural sciences for complete instruction of the Body of Armada. For
this Josef de Mendoza y Ríos was sent to France and Great Britain to buy
books, maps and and other materials. Another aim of his trip was to and
was to recollect information about Marine from archives from all over
Spain.
 Palace of Bolsa de Madrid - It houses the Bolsa de Madrid. It was
declared “Bien de Interés Cultural” in 1992. Designed by Enrique María
Repullés y Vargas, as a model of this building he took Bolsa de Viena
(Theophil Edvard Freiherr von Hansen). Its facade is 66 meters and the
clock-machinery - essential tool for the institution, was imported from
Strasbourg (France). 6 columns of Corinthian order. In the courtyard
there are four reliefs representing Trade, Industry, Navigation and
Agriculture.
 Cibeles fountain: legend about Hippomenes and Atalanta.
.

Alcala Street

 Introduction about eclectic style (how and why appeared).

2
  Antonio Palacios and his architecture. Architect who combined eclectic style
with the modern Wien style. In his architecture appear elements of: eclectic
style, Beaux Arts, baroque elements, classicism elements, influences of North
American architecture.

Barquillo Street

Building of Cervantes: it is called also building of Cariatides (denominated also

as Spanish Bank del Rio de Plata). Name of this building derives from 4 statues
“cariatides” (columns in the form of women), situated on the right and left side of the
building. Built in 1918 by Antonio Palacios y Joaquin Otamendi. Building made in the
eclectic style (Greek neoclassicism). Since October 2006 – Institute of Cervantes.

“Cariatide” - a sculpted female figure serving as an architectural support taking the place of
column or a pillar supporting an entablature on her head.

Means name of inhabitants of park of Caria, in Laconia. This city was allied by Persian during
Greco-Persian Wars. Its inhabitants were exterminated by another Greeks and their wives were
converted into slaves and obligated to carry most heavy loads. They are put like sculptures,
instead of the classic Greek columns, to keep a heavy weight of the building.

Neo Greek style (Greek Revival) – developed in England and in USA in XVIII and XIX
centuries. In opposition to the classic Italian style, “Greek revival” searchers for beauty in the
ancient Greek times. It was considered like first national style in USA. At the end of XVIII
developed in Europe.
Factors of change:
 War in 1812 imposed disparagement in everything what could remember Britain
Empire
 Roman style was not more seen like a federal style, Greece was a cot of
democracy.

Square of Rey

 “La Casa de 7 smokestacks” – building in Madrid, constructed in

1574-1577, one of the architects was Juan Herrera. Now it is Ministry

3
 of Culture in Spain. In the XVIII house was occupied by Marques de
Esquilado, Minister of treasury Charles III.
It was known among people like house of “7 smokestacks” because of several
reconstructions. Those seven smokestacks, you can see on the roof.
This house is full of mystical stories and legends; here you have some of them:
 It was nest of love of the captain Zapata and his wife Elena,
daughter of one men of the court of Philip II. But their happiness was
not very long; Zapata had to go on war in Flanders. Elena later
appears dead in her bedroom. As her body disappeared, of
course the only thing about which people of court and of district
are talking about: is death of Elena. Very soon appear rumors, that
somebody saw a ghost of the women running between these 7
smokestacks, beating itself in a breast and always desappearing
after.
 Years passed by and this house became a property of one wealthy
old man and his young wife, but relation came to its end when one
night young girl committed a suicide. Of course, since that time
there are a lot of rumors that her ghost is walking on the first floor
and it could be heard sound of coins – gift from a king for her
affiance, because this girl also was a lover of Philip IV.
 Also this house served like home to D. Leopoldo de Gregorio,
Marques Esquilache, who was the most influential person in the
époque of Charles III. He was responsible for a treasury and
participated in all types of decisions. He was elevating all time taxes
and even people from Madrid had to be dressed like he wanted.
He issued an edict that prohibited use of coating and a wide hat.
He explained that under a coating it was very easy to hide weapon
and wide hat hides a face of the person. In 1766 people organized
a protest and went to search him in the palace. Marques had
fortune that day, because there was a king. But riots durated from
23-26 of March of 1766. As a result Charles III impeached Esquilache
and accepted claims of the citizens and escaped to Aranjuez
waiting till riots calm down.
 Monument to Ruiz - one of the heroes of 2 of May in 1808. El
Teniente Jacinto Ruiz Mendoza was ill in bed with a high
temperature, when he heard first shots and he decides to
participate. Runs to the Calle Ancha of San Bernardo where was
situated his barrack to take responsibilities of combat.

4
  Theater of Price: built on the building place of old theater of Circus,
destroyed because of been burnt down. So old coliseum takes its
origin from the premises dedicated to acrobatic shows. Later
theater was converted to the Italian Opera house.
 First public clock - clock on the façade of the Ministry of Culture.
Clock is totally declining to west, façade where it is situated looks to
southwest that’s why this clock shows more PM hours then AM.
Designed by Alberto Corazon.
 Church of San Jose: there was held his first service.

Street of Libertad

Name: on this street was founded convent by Marquis de Aguila Fuente. Mission
of this order of nuns was to liberate Christians from moors. That’s why street has name of
“Freedom”.
 “Theatre of Alhambra” disappeared 15 years ago. A first place where
first shows of “variete” were held (not welcomed by Madrid spectator).
 Café “Libertad” has more than 100 years. It was house of wine earlier.
Place for meeting of military from different parties. Story of this bar
remotes to the 1975. This bar was a property of railway cell of PCE
(Communist Party of Spain), a swarm against francism during times of
dictatorship. PCE was located in front of office of CNT. Bar became an
intellectual cenacle, where famous journalists and writers gathered.
Beginning from 1994 café was converted to a “forum” of new song. It
recognised like a “cave of autor song”.

Augusto Figuera Street

Itinerary of footwear, dedicated to journalist and writer Augusto Sanchez

Figueroa. Street continues its development; in near future here will be built “El Corte
Ingles”.

5
Interesting spots:

 House no. 35: shop of vine, it was called “the communist”, because here
had its gatherings socialists from the nearby House of the City (during a
times of dictatorship, all lefties were called communists).
Antonio Machado, Azorin Rafael y Jacinto Benavente visited this place.
Now it’s a bar with great “comida casera”: soup of garlic with egg,
albóndigas.
 San Anton Market: winner of the premium in the nomination
“Architecture in brick” in 2009. It was an open air market at the
beginning of XIX century, which grown up very fasts thanks to emigrants
from nearby villages. It was so popular that Galdos mentioned in his
novel “Fortunata and Jacinta”. But city government decided to locate
this market in a new building, because of unpleasant smells. Architects
were Carlos de la Torre y Costa and its construction finalised in 1945. In
difficult 70ies, market disappeared, because of new competitors like
supermarkets. In 2002 it was renovated and reopened, with investment
of 15 millions of Euros.

Square of Chueca

Square named in honour of Pio Estanislao Federico Chueca y Robres – Spanish

composer, autor of la Gran Via, One of the bigest representatives of "little genre" is a
Spanish genre of short, light plays with music. It is a major branch of zarzuela, Spain's form of
popular music theatre with dialogue, and differs from zarzuela grande and most other operatic
forms both in its brevity and by being aimed at audiences of a wide social spectrum.

Hortaleza Street

In XV here was a village. First buildings were houses of families from Madrid who
came to spend summer vacations. Main products cultivated were cereals, but harvests
were very bad because of low fertility of soil. That’s why inhabitants had to draw

6
another sources of income, like to bake bread for sale or to wash closes for reach
people.

Don Lope “El Olvidado”

Lope de Deza was very educated citizen who came from Segovia: he realised
studies in languages, rhetoric, politics, and civil law in the University of Salamanca,
graduated with a title of bachelor in the Universidad of Alcala. Nevertheless he
received a scholarship to continue his studies in the Royal College of Spain attached to
the Academia of Bologna - he changed his mind and his life totally.
Lope settled on the street of Hortaleza, married with D.Luisa de Galbo and
found huge ranch specialised in agriculture. But in 1601 Philip III moved court to
Valladolid and business of Lope suffered times of crisis, he writes treatise “The reason of
the court” were explained why royal court should stay in Madrid.
In XVIII century this village had its period of prosperity (close to Madrid), after a
long year’s capital of Spain was moved back to Madrid. In XIX century the most
important was appearance of incipient industrialisation derived from agriculture:
elaboration of bread, wine and alcohol. It is also indicated existence of mil of
chocolate on this street.
Particularity of this street consists in numeration of houses: from 98 to 102. It was
an itinerary of Pablo Hortaleza. On this street on the 17 of January is celebrated
traditional party of “La vueltas de San Anton”.
The “Laps of San Antón” is a popular festival in Madrid, on January 17 in honour
of San Antonio Abad. A place of the celebration is near the church of San Anton in
Madrid Hortaleza streets and Fuencarral. The celebration suffered continuous changes
during centuries.
San Anton was: protector of domestic animals, that’s why main “hero” of
celebration was an animal a pig. Festival since ancient times was held in Madrid and
was called “king of the pigs” (or pork council) as remembrance of similar medieval
festivals called "party of Fools", prohibited in the councils of Toledo.
This celebration consists in breeding of a pig, for this responsible mission normally
was chosen a “council” a swineherd, who became a “king of the pig” for a year. The
pig was auctioned or raffled on the day of Saint. This pig was wondering along the
streets with a bell around his neck alerting neighbours of his presence and their duty
was to feed and take care of animal till it stays near their house. This tradition was
prohibited.
In the late twentieth century holiday is celebrated with a parade. This procession
usually involves a squadron of horses of municipal police, Civil Guard and National,

7
guide dogs of ONCE and citizens of Madrid neighbours accompanied by their
respective mascots.

Hernan Cortes Street

Before this street was named in honour of San Pedro and San Pablo.

Hernan Cortes was a soldier in the military campaign in Italy. In 15118 launched
his famous feat of conquest in Mexico. About his heroism there are a lot of legends,
how he was burning down ships to be seen like without possibility to retreat. Cruelty of
Spanish soldiers in treatment of Mexican became known in all Europe. Carlos V gave
him a title of Marquis del Valle de Oaxaca and Main Captain of New Spain.

 “Bar Hernan Cortes” – since 70s, literal bar.

Colon Street

Square of San Ildefonso

Probably always known as Square of Grial, as a memory of popular bar, which was
there during a long time. Original church was built in 1629, but it was destroyed during
a reign of Jose I, popular brother of Napoleon “Pepe Botella”. (during his rule it was
given a nickname because of el popular hermano de Napoleón “Pepe Botella”). In
1810 church was rebuilt and named after San Ildefonso. Therese is a shield inside of the
church which commemorates marriage of Rosalia de Castro in 1858.
This square was famous for it first covered market in Madrid (1970). Modernist building,
where fruits from villages during summertime were brought.

8
 Fuencarral street

Till the XVI century Fuencarral Mountains were populated with tribes from the
kingdom of Castile. This territory was covered with forests of oaks, full of animals for
hunting till the times of Philip III:
During the last years of rule of Philip II, this forests were cut because of expansion
of Madrid. Beginning from this moment begins formation of this street, which later
become one of the most important on for the court.
Reformation of the “network of the streets of San Luis” changed plan of the
street, because before it had it beginning few meters before it is now. In this few square
meters was situated a famous house of Astrearena. This building constructed in XVIII
century by Pedro Astrearena, Marques of Murillo de la Vera, was demolished few years
ago, because of the reforms of Gran Via street. On the first floor of this house lived
Maria Teresa del Toro when she married Simon Bolivar.

 Simon Bolivar and his only wife

“Our first eternal lady”

Maria Teresa Josefa Antonia Joaquina Rodriguez del Toro y Alayza, daughter of Spanish
aristocrats, was a wife of Simon Bolivar from Venezuela. She was born in Madrid during a rule of
Charles III. She met when he was 17 years old and she was 20. In 1800 M.Teresa accepts proposal
of Bolivar to marry him, they got engaged. Two years later, father of Teresa blessed a couple,
may be because he had to keep his promise or because property of Bolivar evaluated in 200.000
duros.
Young lovers married in Madrid in the church of San Jose, not in one at the Alcala Street,
in another one clothe to, which disappeared.
On the 15th of June they realised travel to Venezuela – the last journey for Teresa. When
she came to Bolivars house she wrote: “I liked the property of Simon, in valleys of Aragua,
because of shining of the sun and because of it flowery fields. But our happiness was ephemeral,
because I got ill, my pallor each time was more notorious, it was – “yellow fever”. In 1803 she
died, after being married only 242 days with Simon Bolivar.
Bolivar to calm down his pain went on travelling. In this period he persuaded that he
would never marry again, and he kept his promise.

9
 In 1828 Simone wrote: “If I hadn’t become widower, may be I would never become
neither Simon Bolivar, nor “Liberator”. He contributed a lot to the independence of Bolivia,
Colombia, Ecuador, Panama, Peru, and Venezuela and founded “great Colombia”.

About that building people created a vulgar, speaking about people whose
appearance was superior to the reality that they were like this house of Astrearena,
“lots of facade and short of building”.
“Municipal Museum” - earlier general hospice of poor of Ave Maria and San
Fernando.
Pious Simon Rojas was who started a labour of recollecting of poor nomad
people with a help of Queen Isabel of Bourbon and for this in 1668 was founded
hospice. Charles II and Queen Mariana of Austria favoured and protected this
institution a lot. It was also house where lived Counts of Aranda (Tribunal de Cuentas
today). Owner of the first fabric of porcelain in Spain.
When at the end of the XIII Marco Polo, being in the Genovese prison wrote a book
“Book of wonders”, he couldn’t imagine that almost 500 years later one of his discovering’s in
China, will cause interest in achieve its production.
Till that time Europe limited in purchasing fine and beautiful porcelain brought in
caravans from China. But in the book of Marco Polo was indicated the process of its production:
mass of soil was extracted from mines, than it was put in outdoor to be dried during 40 years and
with a passage of time this soil was being converted to fine mass suitable for preparation of
vessels, which were painted and located in a huge ovens.
But 40 years it was to long time. A lot of people even didn’t reach the age of 40 and a
dream to fabric porcelain was forgotten.
Till the XVI century when first intents were made to fabric porcelain in Europe. In XVIII
century kaolin was used as materials to produce a mass, a lot of tests were made but quality was
horrible.
At least in Germany Johann Friedrich Bottger in 1709, obtained first porcelain (strong
according to its resistance structure). Its production was started in the Imperial fabric of Meissen.
Italy, France, England and Spain also intended to do it.
Kingdom of Naples – “Manufacture of Porcelain in Capodimonte”
France - “Manufacture of porcelain in Serres”. In 1768 it was achieved to produce
porcelain like in China.
In Alcora in 1743 - Count of Aranda inherited factory of slabs founded by his father. His
visits to the factory are not frequent but he wants to make it very productive:
 Working day was increased to 13,5 hours
 To punish workers were used gourds for infractors and the main aim was to
produce strong porcelain.
 German and French chemicals were invited to investigate the recipe of strong
porcelain. But the result was achieved later, when an owner become duke Tujar.
There was also a manufacturer of porcelain in Retiro.

10
 “Court of Accounts”: (in front of hospice) architects are D. Pedro Navascués
Palacio 1a D. Francisco Jareño y Alarcón. Building made of red brick, with varied
ornamentation on the facades. Made in Neogreek style: e.g. frieze with doric leaves.

La Palma Street

There was a stream called “Las Palmas”, trees which disappeared, because of
the construction of new buildings. Only 1 tree was conserved, which gave name to this
street.
In the XVIII century there were 12 looms on the street, coordinated by Don Jose
Bernardo Cifuentes where serges were elaborated ext. Today it is street of art, rock and
vermouth. There a lot of cafes conserved from the times of “movida” like:

 Bar“Penta” - disco, music of 80th of Spain and South America. Songs of

Nacha Pop.

Others: Rey Lagarto, el Louie-Louie o el Café de la Palma

“School of art of Palma” - in order to understand origin and evolution of schools

of art we should come back to the first years of the 19th century, when industrial
revolution takes place because of being invented steam engine. Industrial increase
causes loss of the individualisation in different types of products, standardization and
imitation of styles of the past.
In 1824 in Madrid was opened Royal Academy of Art, later School of Arts and
trades which was subscribed to Royal academy. Aim of this school was education of
handicraftsmen and workers: “schools of handicrafts correspond to the social
necessity”, which were created to elevate the quality and design of products.
But 1886 concept of schools was totally changed: main aim was to create art,
and industry and alien culture should serve like a help to inspire artists who dedicate
themselves to the industry”. The same concept has nowadays school of art of Palma.

Corner with 2 of May Street: parochial church of San Justo y Pastor. Ancient temple

of nuns of Maravillas. Where there is famous icon of Virgin of Maravillas. (that’s why
district is called also “maravillas” – “wonders”). It is told that it was ordered by PhilipIV

11
like gratitude to Saint Virgin “Maravillas”, as he was not ill-fated in the alteration on the
street of Espiritu Santo. Earlier convent of Carmelitas.

History of the image of Virgin Mary

In the XVII century people were already praying to this icon in the church of Rodes Vieja
(Salamanca), where it was substituted by another image, more new. That’s why one of the
neighbours of the district brought this icon home. After the death of the man, his son moved to
Madrid and he took this icon also, but he had to give it in endeavour in order to have possibility
to pay an “alcabala”. Icon appears in hand of Ana del Carpio, whose husband Francisco de
Albornoz restored the icon. By the way that was the moment when icon was called St. Virgin of
Maravillas (of wonders) because Ana dreamed that St. Virgin asked her for refuge in her home,
showing her yellow flower. Ana decided to donate this icon to the convent of Carmelites,
choosing it by chance.

“alcabala” was the most important royal tax imposed by Spain under the Antiguo Régimen. The
other tax of comparable importance was the diezmo, a tithe for the support of the Catholic
Church, a substantial portion of which went to the Crown by virtue of agreements with the Holy
See.

Street of vermouth

Bodegas de Maño: since 1927, there were 9 vineries, as it was like franchising; the only
condition was that vine should be from Arragon.
Bodegas Riva (num. 61)s: since 1923

Street of St. Andres

Name 1: here was a chapel dedicated to this disciple

Name 2: There was a captain of troops of Philip IV who took part in the battle
of Almansa, who code a flag for the soldiers of archduke. He came back to Madrid to
give it to the king. Philip IV later gave land to build his house on this street, which was
called in honour of St. Andres because of blade symbol of martyrdom of this Saint,
depicted on the flag.
 Old factory of ice - building “la industrial” that conserves façade of the
old factory of ice, founded in 1928.

12
 Square of 2 of May

This square is dedicated to events of 2 of May of the War of Independence in

Spain forehead to French troops in 1808.
 Story about Napoleon and Mamelukes

After “Agreement of Fontainebleau” signed on the 27 of October in 1807, troops of

General Murat entered Spain on the 23d of March. Next day a triumphal entrance of troops is
produced to the city of Ferdinand VII and his father Charles IV, was forced to his responsibilities in
a favour of the first one. Both were obligated to be assembled con Napoleon in Bayona , where
the abdications of Bayonne were signed. The throne of Spain was gone to hands of Jose
Bonaparte.
In Madrid was formed “Governing board” with a presentation of King Ferdinand IV.
Power was in hands of Murat.
On the 2nd of May in 1808 people from Madrid started uprising against French.

Monument to the Daoiz y Verlade: when the battle started Spanish soldiers
remained quartered and passive. Only gunners Luis Daoiz and later Velarde fighted
against soldiers of Murat closed in the Artillery Park Monteleon.

Bars: “Garaje Sonico” - music indie (rock café)

“Pepe botella” (tea) - where was stolen one of preemies of Goya given
to Amenabar, which decorated bar the day of celebration of successful
“harvest” for “Open eyes”. There is another rumour: that regional president of
the community of Madrid had to leave bar because of the strong comment of
the owner of bar and since that time fines and visits of policy became regular
thing for this place.

No.24 – this shield remembers us that nearby here was a house of Manuela
Malasaña – hero of the war of Independence, who helped to defeat Artillery
Park Monteleon. Her mother and she were giving municipalities to her father,
backer of French origin Jean Malasangre.

13
 Street of St. Andres

Street of Palma (cross a street)

Street of St. Vicente Ferrer

Street appears in XVII when this district of “Wonders” was formed. Name
derives from one “humilladero” which was located here and dedicated to this
Valencian saint.
Before we come to San Andres street (one more time) we can find buildings
dated to XVIII century like
 “caseron” num.20, very nice example of art nouveau style. (1)
 “game bars”: “estar café”, “red bar”
 Bar “Manuela” (2)
This street is a small museum of tiling:
 (5) Num.44 “O companeiro” - bar has more than 100 years. On its exterior
façade it’s written that this was an old tavern of Felipe Martin, nevertheless
Doña Mari and Manolo say that real name of this bar is “Campanitos”. There is a
tiling inside and outside of the bar.
Maria (from bar) recollects “everything was more simple, “los aperitivos” snacks
were heated on fire (not in micro), at 23 00 all of us closed our shops and bars and went
together with children, to the kiosk on the square of “2 of May” to eat tortilla and to talk.
 (4) “Old Hueveria” – since beginning of XIX century. Façade is decorated with
tiling made by Enrique Guijo. (60ies)
(calle S. Vicente Ferrer 28)
 (3) Pharmacy of San Jose – it façade stands out from other buildings, because
of it original tilling, where different Milagros medicaments and specialities of the
laboratory are promoted and depicted.

It is nosy to feature definition of terminology which we see in this tilling of 19th century.

14
  Lady from high society (take a look at sofa she is surrounded by luxury
decoration of cushions, lamp made in art nouveau. Mode of the
époque is also reflected in her vaporous white dress, in her haircut – in
this époque reached a top of its popularity. (the same haircut as Snow-
white from the first windscreen of Disney had – association with a real
beauty of that time). “Amencia” is depicted here, medicine from the
oral pain. (considered to be disease which could correspond to the
social status of the women).
 Child giving hug to his mother (women is not dressed like on the previous
tiling, she is from low class people) and of course here we see promotion
of “Orinal” called “Perico” medicine from diarrhea. Diarrhea was not a
disease worthy to be promoted by the high class people, but by low
class.
Two images of the façade transmit us spell from faraway places like India y
China. Don’t forget that everything exotic was a theme of interest in the XIX century,
result of expeditions to these faraway countries:
o “Elephant luck of “fakir”, Hindu sits in his rump, to promote plasters,
medicines which were made in drugstore for wounds of consideration.
o Announcement of purgative tee, with a china table and one mandarin,
served to that women lineage, dressed in silk clothes with stamping off
flowers (typical fabric for exotic countries).

Decorations made by urban artists: (decoration of exteriors of some establishments)

 Shop “Sweed seeds”: supplies for general cultivation,
seed bank
 No.32 (5) - shield which commemorates Rosa Chaquel
Raquel Chaque – Spanish artist, writer, She studied in School of fine arts of San Fernando.
In 1918 she left school and started to participate in the circles of the literary bohemia of Madrid
cafes: “Ateneo of Madrid”, “Botilleria de Pombo”. Influenced by Froid and Nietzsche. After fail
of Republic escapes to Brazil but at the end comes back to Spain.

15
 Santa Lucia

Espiritu Santo Street

These fields were a property of monastery of San Martin and during the times of
Felipe II, here were some houses were Moorish lived. On the 3 rd day of Pascua fell a
thunderbolt which produced a fire, as a result some shops of Moorish were burnt down.
In honour of this event, which demonstrated divine will, was put a cross made of
stone with a dove in the middle, called Cross of Saint Spirit - that’s why street has this
name also.
This street is full of stories, for example one of it is that here befall conspiracy
against Philip IV, who wanted to make reforms of court, and on his way to the Palace
of Montelon, in order to find out who participated in this conspiracy he was wounded.

 Market street

This street always was - a market street, a lot of meat shops, fish shops, chicken
shops were opened here till the end of 50 th. But after, it was prohibited to sell in the
public streets. District was very intensively populated, houses were very small and in
each house lived few families, working people, but of the middle class.
There are trades functioning since past century to nowadays.
o “La Pasteleria Diadema” - was opened in 20th. It was founded by one
baker who made the best “borrachos” in Madrid and his client was King
Alfonso XIII.
Alfonso XIII (The African) - the French newspaper Le Figaro described the young king as
"the happiest and best-loved of all the rulers of the earth". During his reign, Spain lost its last
colonies in the Americas (Cuba and Puerto Rico) and the Philippines. (Disaster of 98.)
Alfonso was a promoter of tourism in Spain. Problems with the lodging of his wedding
guests prompted the construction of the luxury Hotel Palace in Madrid. He also supported
creation of a network of state-run lodges (Parador) in historic buildings of Spain. His of football led

16
to the patronage of several "Royal" ("Real" in Spanish) football clubs such as Real Madrid, Real
Sociedad, Real Betis, Real Club Deportivo de La Coruña, Real Unión and Real Zaragoza.
o “Radio Gorines” – small establishment of reparations of old electronic
appliances, opened on the 2d of February in 1927, by the grandfather of
the actual owner.

Madera Street

Street of trades and Bohemia.

On this street were placed pens where wood was stored, that’s why street has this
name.

 House no.8 (no entra en la ruta) - office of newspaper “La Libertad”.

House of San Jeronimo de Barrionuevo, gentlemen of court of Philip IV. In this house
had their gatherings count duke of Olivares and sometimes his friend Philip IV. Here our
heard legends about beauty of religious Margarita who lived in convent. Without seen
her he fall in love, and was visiting her in convent directly but entering through a tunnel
of a nearby mine.
In the 19th century this house was converted into the theatre, called Calderon
where first satiric plays of Amadeo Saboya were shown. Later it was office of
newspaper “Pais”, chapel and now it is an Institute of saving of energy.
 House no.26 – there lived D.Francisco de Quevedo (about Quevedo)
 House no.35 - factory of bread, which changed its roman furnaces into
automatic machines. 10 years later it produced ¾ of bread consumed in
Madrid.
In REFISA in 1944 there was an attempt to invent system in order to do
identification licenses, in this period Franco planned to impose DNI like a way of control
of Spanish people. In this moment already new system of photographic identity was
used in order to make other licenses for a few ministries and Renfe.
 House no.51 – workshop of a plater Jose Maria Navarro, representative
of the 4th generation of platers. Workshop was opened in 1875 and when
we asked him about the secrets of the district, he told that under the
street of Madera there is another one, what caused that a pavement
sank each 5 years. This under-street has a lot of galleries which
remember stories of courtiers and nuns of the convent of San Placido.

17
  Nearby the street of Escorial, there is a tavern since 1921 of Maite Gil and
his son Luis – which offers one of the best “croquetas” in Madrid. It was
visited by Jose Saramago (Portuguese writer) y U2 (Ireland band, 1976).

Street of bohemia

There was a hostel on this street which accommodated a lot of writers “La
Pension de Hans de Islandia”. There was a shield on the façade of the hostel “very
economic house to stay a night, here you can’t trust even yourself”. And here stayed
bohemia of Madrid, of its modern movement like “los dominicales del libre
pensamiento”, they had their office in the second floor of the house no.51, over the
workshop of our plater.
During difficult years of civil war, street of Madera was a home to a lot of writers
attached to the street. In his memories Camillo Jose Cela tells the story which
happened, when he lived here during first month of the civil war.
One day walking along a street, passing by no.15 where was very famous
brothel, from another side of the street was coming Tosia Vargos, his girlfriend when she
was killed by a bus. Cela run to her and saved one of her eyes like a memory, keeping it
during some time in his kitchen. In her honour he wrote a poem “T.V.
Camilo José Cela y Trulock, 1st Marquis of Iria Flavia (Spanish pronunciation: 11 May 1916
– 17 January 2002) was a Spanish novelist and short story writer associated with the Generation of
'36 movement. He offered his services as an informer for Franco's regime and moved voluntarily
from Madrid to Galicia during the Civil War in order to join the Francoist forces there. He was
awarded the 1989 Nobel Prize in Literature "for a rich and intensive prose, which with restrained
compassion forms a challenging vision of man's vulnerability.
Another writer mentions Madera Street in his memories Sanchez Drago: “When
the regime of Franco finished, I could publish “La España Magica”, my life changed
totally after Spain had seen this book, but I remember that before I was a totally happy
men, with only 1 shirt, when I lived on Madera Street, without even one “duro” (monet)
and without enemies.

Street of journalists

Traditionalist newspaper “El Correo Español” and also the republican one “El Pais”,
Lerroux made a speech from the balcony of “Pais”.

Lerroux - andalusian politician which occupied presidency in the government of Spain for a
short period of “La Segunda Republica Española” (1931-1939), after comes Franco.

18
Later building was reconstructed and now there is an office of the newspaper
“Libertad”.

No.27 - a lot of journalists who worked for “Aparato de Propaganda de Movimiento

Comunista de España” lived and worked here.

La Pez Street

Legend about origin of name of the street is one of most naïve you have ever
heard. It is told that at the beginning of XVIII there was an estate with a pond were
fishes lived. But the pond was dried and daughter of the owner took care of them till
they died. Later this girl called Doña Blanca went to the monastery of San Placido. Her
father later built a house on the place of a pond no.24, where now there is a bas relief
of fishes on the facade. (on the corner with a street Jesus de Valle).

Comercial Center

Till 50-tis of the past century, street of Pez was very commercial, till the street of
Gran Via didn’t start to make a competition to it. Traders have created association
with a slogan “Who buys on the street of fish, knows what his fishing out”. They started
promotion campaign imposing system of certificates and discounts to attract a
consumer, and it gave it results for the first time, nevertheless later…Gran Via won this
mercantile battle.
 There was very beautiful clock-shop “Lo-Pez” , house no.9, which had a
fame of being “plundered” by Doña Carmen Polo, wife of Franco. Each
time when she visited a shop, she didn’t pay in cash and owner didn’t
dare to send a bill to “El Pardo” (residence of Francisco Franco).
Employees were told to take off the most expensive merchandise, in
case they see her car getting closer to the shop and to expose only
jewellery.

19
  Noble houses (no entran en la ruta)

Palace of Bauer (entering from San Bernardo street) – dated to the XVII. Bought
in XIX century by Jewish banker’s family Bauer. It was a centre of the music life of
Madrid, with and extraordinary salon of music.
Here were held two types of meetings: big parties with dances and more
intimate ones. Family Bauer always protected its artists who were guests of this house.
This was a place were first Madrid “paparazzi” appeared, waiting near the entrance
after the midnight, to see its guests and to hear fresh rumours. But Bauer had to sell this
palace and to leave Spain because of scandalous financial accident.
In 1940 palace becomes a property of the government, and thanks to “Padre Otaño”,
it was converted to the Academy of music and declamation. In front there was a
Central University, so the spirit of youth gave life to this corner of the street.
In 1971 Academy moved to the Royal Theatre, and building became a second
home for students of Academy of Singing. Following year was founded a choir of
academy, now National Choir of Spain.
Monument to a student: (sculptor Santin Benito) near one of the walls of Academy
there is a monument to the most beautiful student-girl of the Central University, dressed
like a boy, because access to education had only boys. But she remembers us that this
street in XIX century was a centre of music life, youth and studies.
Building made in typical style of “restoration Madrileña” by Melida: piping’s of neo
rococo and its ineffable Pompeian decorations.

Palace of Bornos – duke of Bornos, the architect Silvestre Perez. This house
belonged to the Christian gentlemen (from family of Gracian Ramirez) who in 932,
participated together with Ramiro II in the first attempt to reconquer Madrid from
moors. In one of the fields he found the image of Virgin Mary – Virgin from Atocha,
possibly hidden there because of the fear that it could be desecrated. The story tells
that Gracias Ramirez, before hetool part in the battle, trusted himself to the Virgen,
because of being acquainted about inferiority of the Christian army and thinking that
daughters and wife could be dishonoured, beheaded them. Then after the victory he
came back home very sad, because of killing his loved ones, he found at home his
wife and his 2 daughters live, prostrated in front of the Virgin, with the only mark of knife
and blood near their necks.

20
 San Roque Street

San Roque was a rich French man in XIII century who shared his properties
among poor people and went like pilgrim to Rome, where he was taking care of
people ill in leprosy. On day, he felt himself infected and he went out to a faraway
forest to die. It happened that one dog from a rich house each day was taking bread
and bringing it to Roque. In a few days, owner of the house got curious and followed a
dog, till he found poor Roque. Man brought Roque to his house and cured him from all
his diseases.

Convent of San Placido – in this convent was placed famous painting of Diego
Velázquez “Jesus Christ Crucified”, where Velázquez wrote prohibited thing in Hebrew.

In front of the convent there is a mystic tavern “El Bocho” opened in 1945. Style
is vulgar, old but food is very delicious. During 8oies this place was converted in the
place for meetings of PSOE (The Spanish Socialist Workers' its political position is Centre-
left): Ernest Lluch, Borrell, and Solana. Before place for meeting of journalists of
“Informations”, even today it is easy to find such personalities like Javier Krahe o
Moncho Alpuente.

San Bernardo Street

Calle de la Luna

Its painteresque name dates to the times of Catholic Kings. On this spot of land
Don Alvaro de Cordoba had a house with a big tower. Not far from his house was
situated another palace, also with tower of another nobleman called Francisco de

21
Crispi. Because of the discussion they started to launch attacks from their towers. When
a night came down, they quieted. But with appearance of moon which illuminated
tower of Don Alvaro, battle was resumed, both of dons, died as a result. Isabel the
Catholic, when she found out about the accident, ordered to derive both towers, and
construct new house in the building site of the tower of Don Alvaro. On the façade was
made a moon, which gave name to the building and later to the street.
 Cines Luna, opened in 1980, it was a temple of cinema in original
version
 Church of San Martin, on that spot were buried heroes of the 2 of May
Daoiz and Velarde
 On the square of la plaza de María Soledad Torres Acosta: there was a
palace of counts of Sastago, where was founded in 1782 Banc of St.
Carlos, precursor of the actual Banc of Spain. In 1832 in the same
building was opened small theatre, later theatre of Buenavista, plays
were not of the 1 class quality, entrances were very cheap.
 House no. 19 - “Palace of Infanta Carlotta”, at the beginning of the 19th
century here lived favourite of Duque de Lerma, Rodrigo Calderon, so
popular marquis of “7 churches” (architect Juan de Villanueva).
He was almighty Minister of Philip III, captain of German Guard of his Majesty,
secretary of chamber of king, extraordinary ambassador to France and Netherlands.
Because of being favourite of Duque de Lerma.
He was hated by enemies of Duque de Lerma - Juan de Santa Maria and
Mariana San Jose, who worked with queen Margarita. When queen died during
childbirth in 1611, Calderon was accused of having made witchcraft to her.
When Duque de Lerma was taken to the court in 1618 because of accusations
of his own son, Duque of Uceda and of confessor of the king dominico Aliaga.
Calderon was used like a expiatory kid in order to calm down shouts of people.
On the 7 of January in 1621 he was wildly tortured on the plaza Mayor to be
obligated to confess charges of murder and witchcraft. He confessed murder of Juarez,
but rejected the rest of charges. According to the words of Andrés de Almansa y
Mendoza, «the most famous day, this century saw».
p.s. Calderon was great collectionist of flamenco paintings, especially of Rubens:
“Adoration of Magi”, but also of Jan Brueghel, Pieter van Avont, a lot of these
paintings belong to the collection of Prado Museum.

If you take a look into the interior of the building, check out the
Pompeian frescoes and dirt, where should have been a great luxury place.

22
  House no.15 – “Palace of Talara y Miranda”, (architect Manuel
Machuca) great neoclassical palace. It construction was started in
1976 in the illegal way. Finally building was rehabilitated. It was a
palace of marquis de Llano, were lived princes Dona Carlota and
her husband Francisco de Paula, brother of Fernando VII. When
Princes found out that her brother was ill in “La Granja”. (Minister
Carlomarde wanted him to sign “de matute” (illegally), Salic low,
which excluded women from succession of Crown.) She went to
“La Granja” came in time, in front of her brother she gave a pear
of slaps to Carlomarde and ripped an edict few minutes before
signed by the king. In such way her niece Isabel could inherit a
Crown.
 House 32

 Bullets and chocolate

“Fabric of chocolates of Hindu”.

Establishment was closed in 1994, almost 150
years after it was opened by brother Vela. The
interior became part of collection of National
Museum of Anthropology (today of national
costume).
Here chocolate was produced and
coffee melted. It was so famous that among
its clients was a “Chocolateria San Gines”
and palace of “El Pardo”.

House no. 19, in the underground floor of this building there was old
ironing workshop. Insuportable work especially in the old times, with
those fabrics which wrinkled so much. Also ironers dedicated to
starch clothes to give more enhancements to clothes.

23
 San Vicente Ferrer Street

Square of Comendadoras

Name of square derives from Convent of Comendadoras de Santiago”. Its

architecture for nowadays belongs to XVIII century. It was started to be built in 1650 by
Philip IV. Legend says that in that time young very religious girl who wanted to become
a nun saw one pilgrim who indicated her to go to Madrid because there was a
convent being built. When she came she recognised image of Santiago, of that
pilgrim. Here in spring is organised market of “Cacharreria”.

Cross Street
.

This street till nowadays is like a small village. There is very famous Taberna de la
Casta, house no.1.

Limon Street

Conde Duque

Cuartel del Conde-Duque (Spanish: Cuartel del Conde-Duque) is a building located in

Madrid, Spain. It was declared Bien de Interés Cultural in 1976. Plaza de

España.

FIN

24