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The unofficial guide to Walt Disney

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Other Unofficial Guides
Beyond Disney: The Unofficial Guide to Universal Orlando, SeaWorld,
and the Best of Central Florida
The Disneyland Story: The Unofficial Guide to the Evolution of Walt
Disney’s Dream
Mini-Mickey: The Pocket-Sized Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World
The Unofficial Guide Color Companion to Walt Disney World
The Unofficial Guide to Britain’s Best Days Out: Theme Parks and
Attractions
The Unofficial Guide to Disneyland
The Unofficial Guide to Disney Cruise Line
The Unofficial Guide to Dubai
The Unofficial Guide to Las Vegas
The Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World
The Unofficial Guide to Washington, D.C.
Please note that prices fluctuate in the course of time and that travel information
changes under the impact of many factors that influence the travel industry. We
therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your
travel plans. Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of information
throughout this book, and the contents of this publication are believed to be
correct at the time of printing. Nevertheless, the publishers cannot accept
responsibility for errors or omissions, for changes in details given in this guide, or
for the consequences of any reliance on the information provided by the same.
Assessments of attractions and so forth are based upon the authors’ own
experiences; therefore, descriptions given in this guide necessarily contain an
element of subjective opinion, which may not reflect the publisher’s opinion or
dictate a reader’s own experience on another occasion. Readers are invited to
write the publisher with ideas, comments, and suggestions for future editions.

Published by:
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PO Box 43673
Birmingham. AL 35243

Copyright © 2015 by Robert W. Sehlinger. All rights reserved. No part of this


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Unofficial Guide is a registered trademark of Google Inc. in the United States and
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Cover design by Scott McGrew


Text design by Vertigo Design and Annie Long

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ISBN: 978-1-62809-026-0; eISBN: 978-162809-027-7

Distributed by Publishers Group West

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54321
CONTENTS

List of Maps
Acknowledgments

INTRODUCTION
How Come “Unofficial”?
About This Guide
A Quick Tour of a Big World

PART ONE Basic Considerations


Is Walt Disney World for You?
The Age Thing
About Inviting Your Children’s Friends
A Few Words for Single Parents
“He Who Hesitates Is Launched!” Tips and Warnings for
Grandparents
Order and Discipline on the Road

PART TWO Getting Your Act Together


Gathering Information
Allocating Time
Planning Your Walt Disney World Vacation Budget
Babysitting
Special Programs for Children

PART THREE Where to Stay


Things to Consider
Walt Disney World Lodging
Walt Disney World Hotels: Strengths and Weaknesses for Families
How to Get Discounts on Lodging at Walt Disney World
Lodging Outside Walt Disney World
How to Childproof a Hotel Room

PART FOUR Dining


Eating Outside Walt Disney World
Dining in Walt Disney World

Disney Boot Camp:


PART FIVE
Basic Training for World-Bound Families
The Brutal Truth About Family Vacations
Mental and Emotional Preparation
Physical Preparation
Developing a Good Plan
Logistic Preparation
Remembering Your Trip
Trial Run

PART SIX Get in the Boat, Men!


Ready, Set, Tour! Our Touring Recommendations
Character Analysis
Strollers
When Kids Get Lost

PART SEVEN The Magic Kingdom


Main Street, U.S.A.
Adventureland
Frontierland
Liberty Square
Fantasyland
Tomorrowland
Live Entertainment and Parades in the Magic Kingdom
Magic Kingdom Touring Plans
Magic Kingdom Trivia Quiz

PART EIGHT Epcot


Kidcot Fun Stops
Future World
World Showcase
Live Entertainment at Epcot
Epcot Touring Plans
Epcot Trivia Quiz

PART NINE Disney’s Animal Kingdom


The Oasis
Discovery Island
Africa
Asia
DinoLand U.S.A.
Live Entertainment at Animal Kingdom
Animal Kingdom Touring Plans
Disney’s Animal Kingdom Trivia Quiz

PART TEN Disney’s Hollywood Studios


Disney’s Hollywood Studios Attractions
Live Entertainment at Disney’s Hollywood Studios
Disney’s Hollywood Studios Touring Plans
Disney’s Hollywood Studios Trivia Quiz

PART ELEVEN Universal Orlando and SeaWorld


Universal Orlando
Universal’s Islands of Adventure
Islands of Adventure Attractions
Islands of Adventure Touring Plan
Universal Studios Florida
Universal Studios Florida Attractions
Live Entertainment at Universal Studios
Universal Studios Florida Touring Plans
SeaWorld

PART TWELVE The Best of the Rest


The Water Theme Parks
Wet ’n Wild
Aquatica by SeaWorld
Downtown Disney (a.k.a. Disney Springs)
Outdoor Recreation

CLIP-OUT TOURING PLANS


LIST of MAPS
South Orlando & Walt Disney World Area
Walt Disney World
Hotel Concentrations Around Walt Disney World
The Magic Kingdom
Epcot
Where to View IllumiNations
Disney’s Animal Kingdom
Disney’s Hollywood Studios
Universal Orlando
Universal’s Islands of Adventure
Universal Studios Florida
Downtown Disney Shopping & Dining
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

THANKS TO OUR TEAM OF YOUNG PUNDITS, Isaac and Ethan Leifert, Julia
Aronberg, Erin Haffreingue, and Hannah Testa, for their unique
wisdom and fun-loving attitude (gotta have attitude, right?). Also
thanks to Idan Menin, Ian Geiger, Shelton Siegel, and Katie Sutton.
Kudos to entertainment reporter Jim Hill, who provided insightful
and funny glimpses of the World behind the scenes. The cartoons
were drawn by Tami Knight, possibly the nuttiest artist in Canada,
and Chris Eliopoulos, a talented illustrator–Disney fanatic based in
New Jersey. Much appreciation to Eve Zibart for her characteristically
droll comments concerning Walt Disney World attractions, hotels,
and dining.
For research and contributions concerning family dynamics and
child behavior, thanks to psychologists Karen Turnbow, Susan Corbin,
Gayle Janzen, and Joan Burns. Kudos also to Unofficial Guide
Research Director Len Testa and his team for the data collection and
programming behind the touring plans in this guide.
To the Ortiz-Valle gang: We love your reports from the parks and
the insights from your annual takeover of the Disney fleet. This year
you outdid yourselves! We loved your report about tying the knot
with the Mouse. (We hear the photographer is still recovering from
trying to get the entire clan into one picture.)
Thanks also to Amber Kaye Henderson and Ritchey Halphen for
their editorial and production work on this book. Scott McGrew and
Steve Jones created the maps, and Frances Lennie prepared the
index.
—Bob Sehlinger, Liliane Opsomer, and Len Testa
INTRODUCTION

HOW COME “UNOFFICIAL”?


DECLARATION OF INDEPENDENCE
THE AUTHORS AND RESEARCHERS OF THIS GUIDE specifically and
categorically declare that they are and always have been totally
independent of the Walt Disney Company, Inc.; of Disneyland, Inc.;
of Walt Disney World, Inc.; and of any and all other members of the
Disney corporate family not listed.
The authors believe in the wondrous variety, joy, and excitement
of the Walt Disney World attractions. At the same time, we recognize
that Walt Disney World is a business. In this guide, we represent and
serve you, the consumer. If a restaurant serves bad food, or a gift
item is overpriced, or a certain ride isn’t worth the wait, we can say
so, and in the process we hope to make your visit more fun,
efficient, and economical.

YOUR UNOFFICIAL WALT DISNEY WORLD


TOOLBOX
WHEN IT COMES TO WALT DISNEY WORLD, a couple with kids needs
different advice than does a party of seniors going to the Epcot
International Flower & Garden Festival. Likewise, adults touring
without children, honeymooners, and folks with only a day or two to
visit all require their own special guidance.
To meet the varying needs of our readers, we’ve created The
Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World, or what we call the “Big
Book.” At 864 pages, it contains all the information that anyone
traveling to Walt Disney World needs to have a super vacation. More
than 25 years in the making, it’s our cornerstone.
As thorough as we try to make the main guide, there still isn’t
sufficient space for all the tips and resources that may be useful to
certain readers. Therefore, we’ve developed four additional guides
that provide information tailored to specific visitors. Although some
advice from the Big Book, such as arriving early at the theme parks,
is echoed in these guides, most of the information is unique.
Here’s what’s in the toolbox:
The guide you’re reading now presents detailed planning and
touring tips for a family vacation, along with more than 20 special
touring plans for families that you won’t find anywhere else. The
Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World with Kids is the only
Unofficial Guide created with the guidance of a panel of kids, all of
varying ages and backgrounds.
The Unofficial Guide Color Companion to Walt Disney
World, by Bob Sehlinger and Len Testa, is a visual feast that proves
a picture is worth a thousand words. In the Big Book, for instance,
you can learn about the best guest rooms to request at Disney’s
Wilderness Lodge, but in the Color Companion you can see the
rooms, along with the pool and the magnificent lobby. Full-color
photos illustrate how long the lines get at different times of day, how
wet riders get on Splash Mountain, and how the parks are decked
out for various holidays. The Color Companion whets your appetite
for Disney fun, pictures all the attractions, serves as a keepsake,
and, as always, helps make your vacation more enjoyable. Most of
all, the Color Companion is for fun. For the first time, we’re able to
use photography to express our zany Unofficial sense of humor.
Think of it as Monty Python meets Walt Disney … in Technicolor.
Mini-Mickey: The Pocket-Sized Unofficial Guide to Walt
Disney World, by Bob Sehlinger, Len Testa, and Ritchey Halphen, is
a portable Cliffs-Notes-style version of the Big Book. It distills
information to help short-stay or last-minute visitors decide quickly
how to plan their limited hours at Disney World.
Beyond Disney: The Unofficial Guide to Universal,
SeaWorld, and the Best of Central Florida, by Bob Sehlinger
and Robert N. Jenkins with Len Testa, is a guide to non-Disney
theme parks, attractions, restaurants, outdoor recreation, and
nightlife in Orlando and Central Florida.

THE MUSIC OF LIFE


ALTHOUGH IT’S COMMON in our culture to see life as a journey from
cradle to grave, Alan Watts, a noted late-20th-century philosopher,
saw it differently. He viewed life not as a journey but as a dance. In
a journey, he said, you are trying to get somewhere, and are
consequently always looking ahead, anticipating the way stations,
and thinking about the end. Though the journey metaphor is
popular, particularly in the West, it is generally characterized by a
driven, goal-oriented mentality: a way of living and being that often
inhibits those who subscribe to the journey metaphor from savoring
each moment of life.
When you dance, by contrast, you hear the music and move in
harmony with the rhythm. Like life, a dance has a beginning and an
end. But unlike a journey, your objective is not to get to the end but
to enjoy the dance while the music plays. You are totally in the
moment and care nothing about where on the floor you stop when
the dance is done.
As you begin to contemplate your Walt Disney World vacation,
you may not have much patience for a philosophical discussion
about journeys and dancing. But you see, it is relevant. If you are
like most travel guide readers, you are apt to plan and organize, to
anticipate and control, and you like things to go smoothly. And truth
be told, this leads us to suspect that you are a person who looks
ahead and is outcome-oriented. You may even feel a bit of pressure
concerning your vacation. Vacations, after all, are special events and
expensive ones as well. So you work hard to make the most of your
vacation.
We also believe that work, planning, and organization are
important, and at Walt Disney World they are essential. But if they
become your focus, you won’t be able to hear the music and enjoy
the dance. Though a lot of dancing these days resembles highly
individualized seizures, there was a time when each dance involved
specific steps, which you committed to memory. At first you were
tentative and awkward, but eventually the steps became second
nature and you didn’t think about them anymore.
Metaphorically, this is what we want for you and your children or
grandchildren as you embark on your Walt Disney World vacation.
We want you to learn the steps ahead of time, so that when you’re
on your vacation and the music plays, you will be able to hear it, and
you and your children will dance with grace and ease.

YOUR PERSONAL TRAINERS


WE’RE HERE TO WHIP YOU INTO SHAPE by helping you plan and enjoy
your Walt Disney World vacation. Together we’ll make sure that it
really is a vacation, as opposed to, say, an ordeal or an expensive
way to experience heatstroke. Our objective, simply put, is to ensure
that you and your children have fun.
Because this book is specifically for adults traveling with children,
we’ll concentrate on your special needs and challenges. We’ll share
our most useful tips as well as the travel secrets of more than
42,000 families interviewed over the years we’ve covered Walt
Disney World.
So who are we? There’s a bunch of us, actually. Your primary
personal trainers are Liliane and Bob. Helping out big-time are Isaac,
Ethan, and Julia, our Florida-based crew; Erin, who lives in New York
City; and Hannah, from North Carolina.
Isaac, 14, is our easygoing King of Patience. He calms the troops
and always makes sure that nobody misses their favorite rides and
attractions. Isaac plays football and rows crew; he also enjoys music
and has performed at Walt Disney World with his school’s orchestra
and choir.
Ethan is 11 years old and always on the go. On his agenda:
action, adventure, and what’s new. A dedicated tennis player who
loves to travel, he can’t wait to experience Seven Dwarfs Mine Train.

Julia, 10, loves face painting, Disney pin trading, autographs, and
parades. She’s a great soccer player in addition to being a talented
singer and dancer.
Erin is 15 years old; he loves to paint, and the creative side of
Disney appeals to him. His French-born mom takes him to the parks
regularly. and he has a special fondness for Disney Hollywood
Studios. Erin loves the thrill rides there, and he delights in seeing his
mom’s expressions when they ride The Twilight Zone of Terror
together. He also makes sure that his little brother, Max, always has
a good time when they visit the parks.
Keeping the gang in check is Hannah, 15. She really knows
Disney and will read you the riot act if you mess up. The rest of us
work for her. Needless to say, our gang has lots of opinions—so
many, in fact, that they think Liliane’s and Bob’s are largely
irrelevant.
Faithful readers will note that except for Hannah, this is a
brandnew crew. After contributing for years to this guide, Idan, Ian,
and Shelton are off to new adventures. We thank them for their
witty contributions and wish them magical trails. They will always be
part of our Unofficial family.
Liliane, a native of Belgium, moved to Birmingham, Alabama, in
2014 after having spent 25 years in New York City. She’s funny and
very charming in the best European tradition, and she puts more
energy into being a mom than you think possible without
performance-enhancing drugs. Optimistic and happy, she loves the
sweet and sentimental side of Walt Disney World. You might find her
whooping it up at the Hoop-Dee-Doo Musical Revue, but you’ll never
see her riding a roller coaster with Bob.
Speak of the devil, Bob isn’t a curmudgeon exactly, but he likes
to unearth Disney’s secrets and show readers how to beat the
system. His idea of a warm fuzzy might be the Rock ’n’ Roller
Coaster, but he’ll help you save lots of money, find the best hotels
and restaurants, and return home less than terminally exhausted.
The caricatures above pretty much sum up the essence of Bob and
Liliane.
If you’re thinking that the cartoons paint a somewhat conflicted
picture of your personal trainers, well, you’re right. Admittedly, Bob
and Liliane have been known to disagree on a thing or two.
Together, however, they make a good team. You can count on them
to give you both sides of every story. Let’s put it this way: Liliane will
encourage you to bask in the universal-brotherhood theme of “It’s a
Small World.” Bob will show up later to help you get the darned song
out of your head.
Len is our research dude. His really complicated scientific
wizardry will help you save a bundle of time—would you believe 4
hours in a single day?—by staying out of those pesky lines.

Oops, almost forgot: There’s another team member you need to


meet. Called a Wuffo, she’s our very own character. She’ll warn you
when rides are too scary, too dark, too wet, or too rough, and she’ll
tell you which rides to avoid if you have motion sickness. You’ll
bump into her throughout the book doing, well, what characters do.
So why did we create our own character when Disney has dozens
just sitting around? Simple—Disney characters toe the company line.
We needed a tough (but lovable) independent character who would
give you the skinny on what Disney rides do to your stomach and
central nervous system.

ABOUT This GUIDE


WALT DISNEY WORLD HAS BEEN OUR BEAT for more than two decades,
and we know it inside out. During those years, we’ve observed many
thousands of parents and grandparents trying—some successfully,
others less so—to have a good time at Walt Disney World. Some of
these, owing to unfortunate dynamics within the family, were
handicapped right from the start. Others were simply overwhelmed
by the size and complexity of Walt Disney World; still others fell
victim to a lack of foresight, planning, and organization.
Walt Disney World is a better destination for some families than
for others. Likewise, some families are more compatible on vacation
than others. The likelihood of experiencing a truly wonderful Walt
Disney World vacation transcends the theme parks and attractions
offered. In fact, the theme parks and attractions are the only
constants in the equation. The variables that will define the
experience and determine its success are intrinsic to your family:
things like attitude, sense of humor, cohesiveness, stamina,
flexibility, and conflict resolution.
The simple truth is that Walt Disney World can test you as a
family. It will overwhelm you with choices and force you to make
decisions about how to spend your time and money. It will challenge
you physically as you cover miles on foot and wait in lines touring
the theme parks. You will have to respond to surprises (both good
and bad) and deal with hyperstimulation.
This guide will forewarn and forearm you. It will help you decide
whether a Walt Disney World vacation is a good idea for you and
your family at this particular time. It will help you sort out and
address the attitudes and family dynamics that can affect your
experience. Most important, it will provide the confidence that comes
with good planning and realistic expectations.

THE SUM OF ALL FEARS


EVERY WRITER WHO EXPRESSES an opinion is accustomed to readers
who strongly agree or disagree: it comes with the territory.
Extremely troubling, however, is the possibility that our efforts to be
objective have frightened some readers away from Walt Disney
World or made others apprehensive. For the record, if you enjoy
theme parks, Disney World is as good as it gets, absolute nirvana.
It’s upbeat, safe, fun, eye-popping, happy, and exciting. If you arrive
without knowing a thing about the place and make every possible
mistake, chances are about 90% that you’ll have a wonderful
vacation anyway. In the end, guidebooks don’t make or break great
destinations. Rather, they are simply tools to help you enhance your
experience and get the most for your money.

BOB Be prepared to read experienced Disney World visitors’


opinions of the parks in this book and to apply them to your
own travel circumstances.

As wonderful as Walt Disney World is, however, it’s a complex


destination. Even so, it isn’t nearly as challenging or difficult as New
York, San Francisco, Paris, Acapulco, or any other large city or
destination. And, happily, there are numerous ways to save money,
minimize hassle, and make the most of your time. That’s what this
guide is about: giving you a heads-up regarding potential problems
or opportunities. Unfortunately, some Unofficial Guide readers add
up the warnings and critical advice and conclude that Walt Disney
World is too intimidating, too expensive, or too much work. They
lose track of the wonder of Disney World and focus instead on what
might go wrong.
Our philosophy is that knowledge is power (and time and money
too). You’re free to follow our advice—or not—at your discretion. But
you can’t exercise that discretion if we fail to present the issues.
With or without a guidebook, you’ll have a great time at Walt
Disney World. If you let us, we’ll help you smooth the potential
bumps. We’re certain that we can help you turn a great vacation into
an absolutely superb one. Either way, once there, you’ll get the feel
of the place and quickly reach a comfort level that will allay your
apprehensions and allow you to have a great experience.

LETTERS AND COMMENTS FROM READERS


MANY WHO USE The Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World with Kids
write us to comment or share their own touring strategies. We
appreciate all such input, both positive and critical, and encourage
our readers to continue writing. Their comments and observations
are frequently incorporated into revised editions of the guide and
have contributed immeasurably to its improvement.

Privacy Policy
If you write us or complete our reader survey, rest assured that we
won’t release your name and address to any mailing-list companies,
direct-mail advertisers, or other third parties. Unless you instruct us
otherwise, we’ll assume that you don’t object to being quoted in the
guide.

How to Contact the Authors


Bob, Liliane, and Len
The Unofficial Guide to Walt Disney World with Kids
PO Box 43673
Birmingham, AL 35243
unofficialguides@menasharidge.com
When e-mailing us, please tell us where you’re from. If you snail-
mail us, put your address on both your letter and envelope; the two
sometimes get separated. It’s also a good idea to include your phone
number. Because we’re travel writers, we’re often out of the office
for long periods of time, so forgive us if our response is slow.
Unofficial Guide e-mail isn’t forwarded to us when we’re traveling,
but we’ll respond as soon as possible after we return.

Online Reader Survey


Express your opinions about your Walt Disney World visit at
touringplans.com/walt-disney-world/survey. This online
questionnaire lets every member of your party, regardless of age,
tell us what he or she thinks about attractions, hotels, restaurants,
and more.
If you’d rather print out and mail us the survey, send it to
Reader Survey, The Unofficial Guides, PO Box 43673,
Birmingham, AL 35243.
In any case, let us know what you think!

A QUICK TOUR of a BIG


WORLD
WALT DISNEY WORLD COMPRISES 43 square miles, an area twice as
large as Manhattan. Situated strategically in this vast expanse are
the Magic Kingdom, Epcot, Disney’s Hollywood Studios, and
Disney’s Animal Kingdom theme parks; 2 swimming theme
parks; a sports complex; 5 golf courses; 41 hotels and a
campground; more than 100 restaurants; 4 interconnected lakes; a
shopping complex; 8 convention venues; a nature preserve; and a
transportation system consisting of four-lane highways, elevated
monorails, and a network of canals.
THE MAJOR THEME PARKS
The Magic Kingdom
When people think of Walt Disney World, most think of the Magic
Kingdom, opened in 1971. It consists of the adventures, rides, and
shows featuring the Disney cartoon characters, and Cinderella
Castle. It’s only one element of Disney World, but it remains the
heart.
The Magic Kingdom is divided into six “lands,” with five arranged
around a central hub. First you come to Main Street, U.S.A., which
connects the Magic Kingdom entrance with the hub. Clockwise
around the hub are Adventureland, Frontierland, Liberty
Square, Fantasyland, and Tomorrowland. Five hotels (Bay
Lake Tower; the Contemporary, Polynesian, and Grand
Floridian Resorts; and The Villas at the Grand Floridian) are
connected to the Magic Kingdom by monorail and boat. Two other
hotels, Shades of Green (operated by the US Department of
Defense) and Wilderness Lodge & Villas, are nearby but aren’t
served by the monorail. Also nearby and served by boat and bus is
Fort Wilderness Resort & Campground. Served by bus is the
luxurious new Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney
World Resort, the first five-star hotel on Disney property.

Epcot
Opened in October 1982, Epcot is twice as big as the Magic Kingdom
and comparable in scope. It has two major areas: Future World
consists of pavilions concerning human creativity and technological
advancement; World Showcase, arranged around a 40-acre
lagoon, presents the architectural, social, and cultural heritages of
almost a dozen nations, each country represented by replicas of
famous landmarks and settings familiar to world travelers.
The Epcot resort hotels—the BoardWalk Inn & Villas,
Caribbean Beach Resort, Dolphin, Swan, and Yacht & Beach
Club Resorts and Beach Club Villas—are within a 5- to 15-
minute walk of the International Gateway, the World Showcase
entrance to the theme park. The hotels are also linked to Epcot and
Disney’s Hollywood Studios by canal and walkway. Epcot is
connected to the Magic Kingdom and its hotels by monorail.

Disney’s Hollywood Studios


Opened in 1989 as Disney-MGM Studios and a little larger than the
Magic Kingdom, Disney’s Hollywood Studios consists of two areas.
One, occupying about 75% of the Studios, is a theme park focused
on movies, music, and television. Park highlights include a re-
creation of Hollywood and Sunset Boulevards from Hollywood’s
Golden Age, four high-tech rides, several musical shows, and a
movie stunt show.
The second area encompasses soundstages, a back lot of streets
and sets, and an outdoor theater for an automobile stunt show.
Public access to the soundstages is limited to a tour which takes
visitors behind the scenes of Disney animation and moviemaking.
Disney’s Hollywood Studios is connected to other Walt Disney
World areas by highway and canal but not by monorail. Guests can
park in the Studios’ pay parking lot or commute by bus. Guests at
Epcot resort hotels can reach the Studios by boat or on foot.

Disney’s Animal Kingdom


About five times the size of the Magic Kingdom, Disney’s Animal
Kingdom combines zoological exhibits with rides, shows, and live
entertainment. The park is arranged in a hub-and-spoke
configuration somewhat like the Magic Kingdom. A lush tropical
rainforest serves as Main Street, funneling visitors to Discovery
Island, the park’s hub. Dominated by the park’s central icon, the
14-story-tall, hand-carved Tree of Life, Discovery Island offers
services, shopping, and dining. From there, guests can access the
themed areas: Africa, Asia, and DinoLand U.S.A. Discovery
Island, Africa, and DinoLand U.S.A. opened in 1998, followed by Asia
in 1999. Africa, the largest themed area, at 100 acres, features free-
roaming herds in a re-creation of the Serengeti Plain.
Camp Minnie-Mickey, the park’s former character-greeting
area, closed in 2014 to make way for a new “land” based on James
Cameron’s Avatar films, with construction ongoing until 2017.
Disney’s Animal Kingdom has its own parking lot and is
connected to other Walt Disney World destinations by the Disney bus
system. Although no hotels lie within Animal Kingdom proper, the
All-Star Resorts, Animal Kingdom Lodge & Villas, and
Coronado Springs Resort are all nearby.

THE WATER PARKS


DISNEY WORLD HAS TWO MAJOR water parks: Typhoon Lagoon and
Blizzard Beach. Opened in 1989, Typhoon Lagoon is distinguished
by a wave pool capable of making 6-foot waves. Blizzard Beach is
newer, having opened in 1995, and it features more slides. Both
parks are beautifully landscaped, and great attention is paid to
atmosphere and aesthetics. Typhoon Lagoon and Blizzard Beach
have their own adjacent parking lots and can be reached by Disney
bus.

OTHER WALT DISNEY WORLD VENUES


Downtown Disney, a.k.a. Disney Springs
Downtown Disney is a large shopping, dining, and entertainment
complex that encompasses Downtown Disney Marketplace on
the east, Downtown Disney West Side on the west, and what
used to be Pleasure Island in the middle. Downtown Disney
Marketplace contains the world’s largest Disney-character-
merchandise store, upscale resort-wear and specialty shops, and
several restaurants, including Rainforest Cafe and T-REX.
Downtown Disney West Side combines nightlife, shopping, dining,
and entertainment. House of Blues serves Cajun-Creole dishes in
its restaurant and electric blues in its music hall. Bongos Cuban
Café, a nightclub and café created by Gloria Estefan and her
husband, Emilio, offers Latin rhythms and flavors. Wolfgang Puck
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THEIR DRIVERS WERE UNABLE TO RESTRAIN THEM.

The old trail ran along up the valley of the Cimarron several
days’ drive. A singular stream was the Cimarron; for the most part of
the bed of the stream was sand, perfectly dry, but now and then,
every mile or two, we found a hole of clear good water, except that it
was slightly tinctured with alkali, a brackish, but not unpleasant taste.
There were three fairly good springs along the road near the
Cimarron, designated as the lower, middle and upper spring, and we
camped near each of them as we passed. As we traveled up the
valley squads of antelope could be seen viewing the train from the
heights on either side of the valley.
Captain Chiles had along with him two shotguns, the smaller he
had been using on buffalo, the other, an unusually large, double
barrel, number 8 bore, very long in barrel and heavy, carrying easily
twenty buck shot in each barrel. Armed with that big gun I would ride
in the direction of the antelope, but at an angle indicating that I would
pass them. Usually when I had gotten within three or four hundred
yards of them they would quietly withdraw from view behind the
ridge, whereat, I would turn the course of my horse and gallop as
fast as I could, keeping the ridge between them and me until I had
gotten within a short distance of the point of their disappearance.
Then dismounting, I hastily followed them on foot. Often they would
be found to have moved not out of the range of that big gun, and
with it I killed many of them. That was the only plan of killing
antelope by which I gained success. During this part of the journey
we saw many wolves, and of many varieties, from the little coyote to
the great gray wolf. They were all very shy, however, and difficult to
approach within gun shot.
On the Cimarron we were overtaken by the mail coach, one of
the monthly lines then operated by Waldo & Co. of Independence,
Mo. The coach had left Westport five days later than our train. The
driver, guards and passengers were all “loaded to the guards” (to
use a steamboat phrase) with guns and pistols.
While the train was under headway one morning Captain Chiles
rode along the length of the train inquiring for “Skeesicks,” but
“Skeesicks” did not answer, and no one could tell anything about
him. The captain ordered the train stopped and a search to be made
of each wagon, but the searchers failed to find any sign of
“Skeesicks.” Further inquiry developed the fact that he had started
out as one of the guards at midnight to protect the herd of cattle,
they being off a mile or more from the corral, where grass was found,
and no one had seen him since. Captain Chiles declared that he
could not afford to stop for so worthless a fellow as “Skeesicks,” and
thereupon the orders were given for the train to proceed.
Having traveled ten or twelve miles, a camp was located at the
foot of a mound which overlooked the road we had been traveling for
nearly the whole distance of the morning’s drive.
At dinner, the propriety of laying by for a day or two, or long
enough to make a proper search for our lost comrade, was
discussed; but the teamsters all realized that no captain of a ship at
sea ever wielded more absolute authority than Captain Chiles. He
could brook no opposition, and little criticism of his course or
conduct. Any disobedience of his orders he regarded as equal to
mutiny and was punished accordingly. About the entire camp a
sullen silence prevailed. Suddenly some one cried out that an object
could be seen away down the road that might be “Skeesicks,” but
just then, no one could discern whether a man or a horse or an
Indian.
The entire party assembled outside the corral to watch the
approaching object, and after a while our lost “Skeesicks” walked up,
covered with dust and worn out with fatigue of constant walking for
over twelve hours, without food or water.
“SKEESICKS” WALKED UP.

He was soon revived by a comforting dinner. He said he had


been aroused at midnight from a sound sleep to assume his turn as
cattle guard, and on his way from the corral to the herd, he had
wandered apart from his companion guard, soon becoming
bewildered and completely lost. He wandered about during the entire
night, not knowing in what direction he was going, and was all the
while afraid to stop for fear of the wolves that were howling around
him continually. After daylight he accidentally found the road, and
although bewildered, he had sense enough remaining to follow it to
the west, whence he had overtaken us.
As the cattle were being yoked, Captain Chiles called up “Little
Breech” and directed him to get the large cow bell he had brought
along to put on the black steer that was in the habit of wandering
from the herd at night. The wagonmaster, with the bell in hand,
walked up to “Skeesicks,” who was sitting on a wagon tongue resting
his weary legs, and said, “‘Skeesicks,’ I am determined not to lose
you again, and am going to take no chances.” Then he buckled the
strap attached to the bell around “Skeesick’s” neck. Turning to “Little
Breech” he gave him particular orders to drive “Skeesicks” in the
cavayard and in no event to allow him to wander away again.
All that afternoon “Skeesicks” plodded along with the lame cattle
in the cavayard, at the rear of the train, the bell ringing at every step.
In the evening, after we had corralled, he went to Captain Chiles and
plaintively beseeched him to remove the bell. The captain gently
unbuckled the strap, but again charged “Little Breech” to keep his
eye on “Skeesicks” and not permit him to wander from the train.
HE PLODDED ALONG WITH THE LAME CATTLE.
IX.
A Kicking Gun and a Bucking Mule.

Here for some days we were traversing a continuous level plain,


treeless and trackless, except for the road we traveled, covered with
buffalo grass, then turned a beautiful straw color by the sun and dry
weather, but still affording excellent pasturage. Not a tree had we
seen, none since we crossed the Arkansas.
We were slowly but regularly leaving behind us the monotonous
plain, to enter upon a region of great natural beauty and
attractiveness. On a beautiful morning after the train had been
moving for a short time, the Rabbit Ear mounds were seen, peering
up in the distance, through the hazy atmosphere. Yet we were a
day’s journey from them. These twin diminutive sentinels of the
Rockies, stationed here to the left of our road, could not have been
more appropriately named, their resemblance to the ears of a jack-
rabbit being strikingly obvious.
A day or two after passing the Rabbit Ears we were fortunate in
the beauty and attractiveness of the location of our corral.
Immediately west of us the view was limited to a mile or two, shut off
by the bluff rim of a stretch of table-land, rising perhaps a hundred
feet above our level, the face of the elevation extending north and
south, the road we were traveling passing around the base of its
southern extremity. About midway of the rim of this plateau of table-
land there was a small mound of regular sugar-loaf shape, rising to
perhaps the height of twenty feet, on the top pinnacle of which stood
a single buck antelope looking at the train as it was starting out just
at sunrise. There he stood for some time stock still gazing at us. The
morning was absolutely glorious, the perfect weather of New Mexico.
I determined to give this solitary buck antelope a trial.
Procuring the big double-barreled shotgun belonging to Captain
Chiles, I mounted my horse, riding in almost the opposite direction to
that in which the train was moving. The buck held his position until I
had ridden nearly opposite him, my course, leaving him nearly half a
mile to the left, when he suddenly retired behind the mound.
Immediately turning my horse I galloped over the ascending ground
until I got within a hundred yards of the base of the mound,
dismounted quickly, walked rapidly up to it; then I crawled as quietly
as possible nearly to the top. Peeping around so as to get a view of
the opposite side, I beheld, forty yards from me, that fine buck,
looking intently toward me, with four or five of his companions lying
down near him, so close together that I could almost have covered
them all with the big shotgun.
Holding the gun in the right hand—it was so heavy that I could
scarcely handle it—cocking both barrels, I pushed it out in front of
me, and just as I was in the act of placing the breech of the gun
against my shoulder, but before I had gotten it fairly in place, off it
went, both barrels simultaneously, sounding like a cannon, and
kicking me with such force as to turn me over and over, rolling me
down nearly to the foot of the mound. The gun struck my face,
bruising it badly, making my nose bleed profusely and stunning me,
but not so badly but that I noticed the bunch of fine antelope
scampering off, frightened, but untouched. My horse stood quietly
where I had left him picketed.
Our real character, “Little Breeches,” antedated the poetical child
of the fancy of Colonel John Hay, introduced to the public some thirty
years ago. Whether this distinguished gentleman had any knowledge
of our cavayard driver, I do not know, but in truth the two “Little
Breeches” had similar characteristics, both “chawing tebacker” at an
early age, and our “Little Breeches” had the additional
accomplishment of swearing with emphasis, and articulation
unexcelled or unequaled by any of the older and more hardened
“bull-whackers” of our train.
HE JUMPED AND KICKED.

“Little Breech” rode a pony mule, a small animal of most perfect


shape, with activity to correspond. The noon day camp was breaking
up, the cattle were all yoked and hitched to the wagons. “Little
Breech” had mounted his mule, preparing to round up his cavayard.
At the moment the reins were lying loose on the mule’s neck, while
“Little Breech” had both hands employed in adjusting his belt.
Impulse dictated so, walking towards him unobserved, I picked up a
stick, raised the mule’s tail and gently placed the stick under it. The
mule instantly clasped it tight with his tail, commencing, before “Little
Breech” could seize the bridle reins, the worst spell of bucking I had
witnessed on the journey. He jumped and kicked and kicked and
jumped for a hundred yards, describing a semi-circle in his gyrations.
I was alarmed, fearing the boy’s neck would surely be broken. But
failing to get hold of the bridle reins, he clamped the horn of the
Spanish saddle, and, retaining his seat to the end, all the while
swearing at me with as great force as he could command, his
volubility being very much restricted by the prolonged bucking.
X.
A Gray Wolf.

It is difficult, if not impossible, to find the derivation of some of


the Spanish or Mexican words and phrases then in use by the Santa
Fé traders. For instance, the word “cavayard,” I have used and
spelled as it was pronounced by these unlettered plainsmen and as
applied by them to the bunch of loose cattle and horses driven
behind the train. The pure Castilian has undoubtedly suffered many
changes in New Mexico, among the lower classes particularly. The
Spanish words used by these plainsmen had been both Mexicanized
and then Missourianized until so changed and corrupted as to be
hardly recognizable at all. This word “cavayard,” they declared, was
of Spanish origin; if so it must have been a corruption of “caballar”—
pronounced “cavallyar,” meaning an attendant on horses. The
derivation of the word “hornada,” which we found given to the dry
stretch between the Arkansas and Cimarron is equally obscure.
Among the teamsters was a Mexican, whose name I have
forgotten. One morning Captain Chiles got up earlier than usual, at
break of day, in fact, and, while waking up the men he discovered
this Mexican beating one of his oxen severely with bow of the ox
yoke. This was a gross violation of the rules, but when Captain
Chiles censured him in pretty strong language he talked back to him
in a threatening manner. Thereupon the captain, drawing one of the
two navy pistols swinging to a belt around his waist, holding it in one
hand, and with a heavy blacksnake whip in the other, advanced upon
him and proceeded to give him a severe flogging with the whip. The
Mexican was held fast by the threatening aspects of the navy pistol
pointed at him all the while until he had received a very severe
flogging. The following night the Mexican “skipped out,” and was
never seen by us afterwards, but no doubt made his way to the
settlements of New Mexico, then not more than 200 miles distant.
Hunting game, other than buffalo, along the Santa Fé trail at that
date was, to one attached to a train and dependent upon its
movements, necessarily confined to a narrow scope of country on
either side of the road, within a mile or two. It was impossible to
know at what moment one might meet with Indians and be attacked
by them. At that time of the year the game was kept back from the
highway by the frequent passage of trains, while a few miles off from
the road there was no trouble to find antelope and white-tail deer. I
was compelled to hunt alone or not at all. My friend Reece had
become too much worn out by the travel and his continued ill health
to take much interest in hunting, while Captain Chiles was kept busy
with his duties about the train. But I was continually on the lookout
for game; I rarely traveled the road, but would ride a mile or so from
it on one side or the other, always carrying my holster pistols, and
usually, in addition the big shotgun belonging to Captain Chiles.
My buffalo horse seemed to have a very clear understanding of
travel over the plains, having, as before stated, the experience of a
journey from California to Missouri the previous year. He seemed to
have an instinctive idea of the locality of the train, even when it was
traveling, and often when riding him a mile or more from the road
and completely out of sight, when given the rein he would instantly
change his course in the proper direction to intercept the train.
Riding thus alone on one occasion, some distance ahead of the
train, I saw a large gray wolf galloping across my course, going
towards the road. I determined to give him a chase, and after him I
went. The wolf increased his speed, and, urging my horse to his
best, we went flying across the road 100 yards in front of the train
and in full view of it. As we flew by, the entire company of teamsters
gave us an encouraging whoop, but whether designed for me or the
wolf I was not able to determine. I had followed the big fellow closely
for a mile, emptying at him, if not in him, the entire twelve chambers
of my revolvers. At one time I got within twenty feet of him, but not
having any ammunition for reloading with me, nor time for recharging
my pistols if I had, he disappeared over the ridge and I saw nothing
more of him.
Many days passed and many weary miles were traveled of
which I have no remembrance whatever and I am only attempting to
relate such adventures as were indelibly impressed upon my
memory, the frosts of forty-three winters having passed over my
head since this journey was made. I cannot recollect what I thought
of the probability of those vast plains ever being occupied or
cultivated as homes for white people.
Whetstone creek, which the road crossed near the boundary of
New Mexico, was one of the localities of special interest to me. Back
on my father’s farm in Missouri I had often whetted my pocketknife
on a stone belonging to my old overseer friend who said he had
obtained it on this creek. But none of our trainmen were familiar with
the route or the locality, or could tell me where the whetstone quarry
was to be found, and I was disappointed in not being able to
discover it after making a diligent search for it. And now the spurs of
the Raton mountains loomed up in the distance ahead of us, a novel
and interesting sight to many of the company, some of whom had
never seen any greater elevation than the big hills of Western
Missouri, and the drivers swore and cracked their whips with
renewed vigor and animation.
XI.
Arrival at Las Vegas.

Crossing the Ocata on the dry bed of it we were approaching


Apache hill, on the branch of the road leading to Fort Union, the
ascent of which was quite difficult to heavily loaded wagons. The hill
was barely visible in the distance and the hour nearly noon when we
first came in sight of it. It was quite hot under the noonday sun and
we could see the white sheets of a train of wagons descending the
hill. Soon afterwards Captain Chiles and I, riding ahead of our train,
met the wagonmaster of this train, a sandy-haired, red-faced fellow,
sullen, morose and non-communicative. He seemed inclined to pass
us without speaking, but Captain Chiles saluted him, and he halted
for a few moments. The man appeared to be sick, and as Captain
Chiles afterwards said he could scarcely “pull a word out of him with
a log chain.”
The captain asked him, “How is the grass about the foot of
Apache hill?” when he answered, “Well, sir, it’s damned scase.”
Ten miles before reaching Fort Union we stopped at a ranch,
where we found an abundance of good milk and butter, kept in a well
arranged spring house, supplied with water by a cold and bold spring
running out of the foot of the mountain. The milk was kept in large
open tin pans, set in a ditch extending around the room, constructed
so as to allow a continual flow of cool water about the pans. The
spring house was built of adobe or sod bricks. This ranch supplied
the fort with milk and butter.
Fort Union had no appearance of a fortified place then; there
was nothing more than substantial and comfortable barracks, stores
and warehouses. But the place had a look of military precision,
neatness and cleanliness about it not seen elsewhere in New
Mexico.
At this place our train was cut in twain; one-half of it, under the
command of Captain Chiles, went on to Mora, the other half was
sent to Las Vegas, in charge of the assistant wagonmaster, Rice.
Reece and I decided to accompany that part going to Las Vegas.
On the route to Las Vegas we found a large adobe ranch house,
probably a hundred feet square and sixteen feet high, the solid walls
being without openings on the outside, except two large doors. The
ventilation and light were secured through the openings inside the
hollow square. There was an extensive buckskin tailoring
establishment there, where they were manufacturing quantities of
buckskin clothes of various patterns, and I was surprised at the skill
displayed in making the garments. The clothes were made to fit with
tailor-like precision and exactness. Clothes of buckskin were
generally worn at that time by the inhabitants of New Mexico, by the
natives especially.
As we drew near Las Vegas we noted that the “bottoms” of the
little creek running near the town were cultivated in corn, with
occasional patches of vegetables, the land uninclosed by fences, but
flanked by irrigating ditches supplying the necessary water, and the
crops were looking remarkably well, although the weather had been
dry for some weeks. We found it necessary to have a close watch
kept on our cattle while we were near these cultivated and unfenced
fields. Las Vegas was a compactly built little town of probably two or
three hundred inhabitants, the houses for the most part built of
adobe bricks or tufts of sod, with a corral in the rear. The herds of
sheep, goats and burros were driven in about sunset and fastened
up for the night in these corrals, from which they were driven out
early in the morning to graze during the day, under the constant eye
of the herder, who accompanied each band.
We remained one day only at Las Vegas. The wagons were
unloaded, the freight being delivered to the consignees, and we
turned about and started on our homeward journey.
While at Las Vegas Reece purchased three goats, thinking that
their milk would be beneficial to him. They furnished a bountiful
supply of milk, and very rich milk it was, too, though of a rather
strong and disagreeable taste and odor. He failed, however, to
realize any great benefit from its use, so far as I remember.
Our first noonday camp after we left Las Vegas was near a
ranch, and as we were resting under the shade of the wagons after
dinner, the owner of the ranch, a native New Mexican, visited us,
with a good looking shepherd dog following him. Reece expressed
admiration for this dog, which, the Mexican declared, was excellently
well trained for herding, easily controlled and a valuable animal in
other respects. After considerable negotiation, the Mexican agreed
to sell the dog to Reece for two plugs of tobacco. Reece procured a
rope, and the Mexican tied the dog to the rear axle of one of the
freight wagons, soon afterward taking his departure for his ranch a
mile or more distant. Shortly the dog became restless and made
efforts to get loose.
The teamsters began to laugh at Reece about the uncertain
character of his newly acquired property, saying that the Mexican
well knew that he could not keep the dog, and that he would soon
make his escape to return home. Reece declared that he would
prevent this at least and went to a wagon and brought forth a gun.
Standing the gun against the wagon under which the dog was
fastened, Reece resumed his efforts to enjoy a noonday siesta under
a neighboring wagon. He was aroused by one of the drivers, who
shouted to him that his dog was running off in the direction of his
home. The dog had gotten two or three hundred yards away,
ascending a ridge in a gallop when Reece jumped up, seized the
gun, leveled it at the dog and fired. To his surprise, no less than ours,
the dog fell dead.
We rejoined the other part of the train at a camp near Fort Union,
and here in this camp we remained for several days.
Captain Chiles was desirous of selling a part of the cattle, as the
whole were not needed to convey the empty wagons on the return
journey, and made frequent visits to the fort in his efforts to dispose
of the cattle. One evening he announced that he had made a sale of
about one-half of the cattle. The following morning a prosperous
looking gentleman of consequential air and mien rode up to our
camp and was introduced as the purchaser of our cattle. He was
riding a fine horse, with saddle and other equipment to correspond.
Among his other attractive features, I can recollect a large flask of
brandy which he carried lashed to the front of his saddle, the flask
being protected by a wicker jacket. Generous gentleman, as he
proved, the first thing he said after the usual salutation was an
invitation to sample the contents of this flask, and this invitation the
common politeness of the plains prevented us from declining. We
found his brandy excellent, and its effect produced a lasting
remembrance of the personality of the gentleman himself.
The cattle purchased by him were cut out and separated from
the others. The owner said he intended driving them to some point in
New Mexico, a considerable distance from there. On inquiring for
some hands whom he could employ to drive them to their
destination, one or two were found in the party who would accept the
service offered, and then some one suggested that a job of this sort
would suit “Skeesicks,” who was still hanging to the train.
“Skeesicks,” with apparent reluctance, accepted the service and
wages offered, and in a few moments afterwards left us forever. I
could not avoid feeling sorry for him, as he slowly passed from our
view, trudging along on foot behind the herd of cattle. We never
heard of him afterwards.
While at this camp a Mexican youth, about 16 years of age,
came to the train and asked permission to accompany us to the
“States.” He was a bright, active boy, able to understand and speak
English in some degree, appearing immensely pleased when
Captain Chiles told him that he might come along with us if he
desired.
During the night some of the trainmen ascertained that he was a
“peon,” consequently having no right to leave the territory. When the
train started the next morning, at the suggestion of the men, he
secreted himself in one of the covered wagons. Before noon,
however, two horsemen were seen following us, coming on in a fast
gallop. They were officers of the law, armed with pistols and a writ for
the arrest of the boy. The trainmen pretended to be ignorant of his
presence with the train, but the officers said they knew he was with
the train, demanding of Captain Chiles that he stop the train so they
might search for him. In order to avoid being subjected to the charge
of resisting the officers, the captain ordered a halt. The officers soon
discovered the boy concealed beneath some bedding, dragged him
out and put him on one of their horses. The poor boy protested with
all his might against being taken back, crying all the while in a
distressing manner, arousing the feelings of the trainmen until they
were about to declare war on the officers, but Captain Chiles said it
would not do to resist the civil authorities. So the little fellow was
carried back to his condition of slavery or peonage as it was called
by the officers.
THE OFFICERS DRAGGED HIM OUT.

At noon that day our camp was near the base of a mound of
broken rock, perhaps a hundred feet high, rounded to a sharp
pinnacle at its apex. The mound supported hardly a bit of vegetation
on its sides, which were nearly inaccessible. The goats purchased
by Reece had been driven along in the cavayard, apparently
reconciled to their new mode of life and daily travel. That day, as the
wagons were moving out of corral, Reece missed his goats. I joined
him in a search for them, riding about over the plain, and we had
about reached the conclusion that they had run away. Just then as
the wagons were moving from the corral one of the teamsters
shouted to Reece, “There are your goats!” pointing to the summit of
the steep mound of rock.
Sure enough, there were the three goats, standing in a row on
the topmost rock, looking at us with the utmost satisfaction and
composure. Nothing but a goat could either ascend or descend the
declivity, so Reece and I remained until they thought proper to come
down. This they did in the course of an hour, when we drove them
on, overtaking the train as it went into camp at nightfall.

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