Everything About Your ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 Transmission Issues

Everything about your ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 transmission issues
What you are supposed to know about your ZF6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 and similar ford Transmissions.
It applies to all BMW, Jaguar, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Maserati, Audi and others with ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 In this post i will be explaining why you have
transmission issues like: -harsh shift 2-1 -not able to shift into park when hot -weak torque feeling -gear speed ratio faults -other faults All highlighted problems
you can experience even on low miles cars less than 70-80k, it depends on at what speeds your car mostly runs. On the highway this tranny will easily last 200-
300kmls. AND EVERYTHING IS RELATED TO VALVE BODY PRESSURE LOSS DUE TO SOLENOIDS OR ACTUAL VALVE BODY SEALING GASKETS LEAKING INSIDE, BUT
BETTER DO BOTH. DRIVING WITH LEAKING VALVE BODY WILL EVENTUALLY WEAR OUT ACTUAL TRANSMISSION HARDWARE. BEST ADVICE FOR YOU: SINCE 99%
issues with this trannies are related to valve body uid pressure loss, I strongly recommend new (re manufactured) valve body from ZF (expensive 1600$), (you
can nd some companies o er this rebuild, but they charge almost new VB price, or rebuild it yourself with NEW SOLENOIDS PACK (300-400$) and SONNAX zip
kit (150$). If after you rebuilt or replaced valve body and RESET ADAPTATIONS USING BMW SOFTWARE INPA OR ISTA IS A MUST, OR YOU WON'T SEE ANY
DIFFERENCE AFTER REBUILT, BECAUSE TCM KNOWS VALVE BODY PRESSURE VALUES AND THEY MUST BE RESET. IF AFTER REBUILT, it's not shifting well, it
means YOU WAITED TOO LONG WITH VALVE BODY REBUILT AND DESTROYED transmission hardware (bushings or actual clutches failed) and you need to
rebuild it, but like i said main problem STARTS at valve body and then if not xed in time you get worn out transmission. All those jolts, bumps or harsh shifts
cause premature wear and tear on your tranny. Rule of the thumb is not to drive it if it jerks,or shifts wrong. replacing just solenoids without rebuilding valve
body, where accumulators/pistons always go bad after 60-70k, will not get you perfect results, but might improve shifting quality. Remember-cheap people
usually pay twice (no o ense). So you hate the way tranny shifts and dealer and other shops didn’t nd any faults and told youit is what it is and this is how it is
intended to work! Well it is total lie they are trying to get rid of you with. In fact ZF 6HP26 6hp19, 6hp28 is a very good transmission, powerful, bullet proof pretty
much if serviced in time and proper uid pressure maintained! This tranny is still considered one of the best and has carbon clutches vs cheap paper ones you
can nd on Japanese cars. But this tranny has very serious and very important weak spots you have to take care of: -First thing rst check tranny
temperatures. If it is higher than 95C, then most likely you have a problem with tranny cooling system or your engine cooling has some leaks causing running it
very hot. Usually high temps indicate following: 1) engine cooling system problem- air bauble or airlock 2) if
everything is good with cooling system, check your tranny oil cooler- it gets clogged up pretty often and also indicates that some clutches or TC clutch is worn out
and that debris clogged oil cooler. 3) worn out TC clutch slipping overheating transmission uid. Your good engine temps are 103-105C and if it climbs to 107-
110C in tra c, it means you’ve got a leak : -lower radiator hose sensor leaking (usually shows a white residue around the sensor) -valley pan under intake -rear
cover plate between tranny and engine. Very common after 100k or 8-10yrs. -coolant tank cracked -radiator cap leaking pressure -coolant pipe seal leaking -
other cooling issues It is very important to keep temps in specs not only because of few degrees, but because with leaking cooling system you lose coolant
pressure introducing air in the system, causing uneven cooling and overheating both engine and tranny. Good OEM specs are 103-105 cycle when idling and
lower hose should be hot around 60-80C. When you drive it tstat is controlled by ECU therefore it keeps it cool on the freeway. Easy way to test your cooling
system 1) Disconnect aux pump connector assuming aux pump is working (they fail often) 2) Drive your car to warm engine well
3. Turn on heater on hot but low speed
4. check if you get hot air from vents for 10 minutes.
5. If after a minute you noticed your heater is not hot anymore, it means you’ve got a leak!
6. This Engine has self bleeding cooling system, which means you cannot get air pocket if system is well sealed.
So if engine temps are good and tranny still runs hot 100-110, it means heat exchanger is clogged with tranny clutches, TC wear and tear dirt. Replace it and
check if it got better. This tranny will die quick if temps are not good. -MECHATRONIC ADAPTER SEAL. This
adapter (number 2) usually lasts only 60-70kmls (BMW lifetime). Replace it every 60kmls even if tranny shifts well. It is very important because it keeps your
mechatronic valve body under speci ed pressure therefore it controls how clutches are pressed! Which means if your gasket is weak your tranny clutches are
not pressing well on each other causing premature wear and tear, also tranny pump and TC clutch will be a ected. This square seal also can CRACK, in this
case you will get tranny fail safe errors and even clutches slipping ERRORS, causing very quick TRANNY DEATH. DON'T DRIVE YOUR CAR IF YOU'RE
GETTING ANY TRANNY FAULTS, EVEN AFTER RESTART TRANNY ERRORS GO AWAY FOR A WHILE, IT IS NOT A TRANNY COMPUTER GLITCH!!!
http://www.thectsc.com/products/mechatronic-seal-adapter-6hp26-6hp28-6hp32-42-52.html YES THIS SMALL, CHEAP GASKET CAN DAMAGE YOUR
TRANSMISSION PRETTY BAD. -OTHER 4 RUBBER PIPE SEALS. They 5,6,7 also control clutch pressure, but
even if they are attened pretty bad transmission won't give you any errors. Its always good idea to replace it- you’ll notice a di erence how your tranny shifts.
WWW.RMEUROPEAN.COM has these seals under transmission parts section. -SOLENOID KITS. 2 TYPES -
MOST COMMON E65, YOU DON'T NEED PARKING SOLENOIDS SINCE THEY DON'T GO BAD OFTEN, SO YOU CAN USE M-SHIFT SOLENOIDS, BUT YOU CAN GET E-
SHIFT PACK AS WELL, WHICH IS 200$ MORE. http://www.thectsc.com/products/solenoid-kit-6hp19/26/32-m-shift-36-45.html
Yes they go bad and are not simple solenoids you used to know from old school trannies. Now these are
pressure regulators and they do not only work open\close operation, they control pressure and after so me time they get clogged, overheat, etc. So if your
tranny temps are good and your tranny shifts hard, it could be your solenoids. Its good idea to replace them every 100k, because they control everything in the
tranny. You will be surprised how tranny shifts with new solenoids. And you don't need 2 parking solenoids, so you can use 200$ cheaper kit, which ts 5,6
series without E-SHIFT. Also dont be scared if you open your transmision and nd out that color is not the same- relax it changed color because of temps and
age. There are two types of kitsAll the parts at very good prices can be found here: http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/mechatronic-parts-52.html -GUIBO FLEX
DISC. They usually go bad after BMW lifetime period 60-70k. Common Symptoms: a) hard 2-1 sift b) at stop you can hear clunking when shifting from P-R-D
c)overall tranny shifting quality -Tranny uid level. Yes due to leaking oil pan gasket you might loose some
uid. Always check tranny oil pan for leaks and tranny uid level (use BMW sealed tranny uid level check procedure). It is always better to install metal oil pan- it
never leaks and cheaper to maintain! You can add BMW OEM PENTOSIN brand uid or you can use MOBIL1 or CASTROL synthetic ATF uid (10$/qt) import multi
vehicle formula, believe it or not it has same specs if not better than BMW uid and works great. Tested for 160kmls. BMW will only recommend OEM FLUID of
course, but its up to you, so please do not comment here that di erent than OEM uid will kill the tranny. But always make sure it has the same specs of course.
Mostly Dextron 6 uid applies as well for this trannies. UPDATE: TRANSMISSION RUNS MUCH BETTER WITH OEM ZF FLUID OR SHELL M1375.4 FLUIDS, SO
BETTER SPEND FEW MORE BUCKS FOR CORRECT FLUID. FEBI OR ZF WILL WORK GREAT. SOME USE FORD FLUID, SINCE ITS THE SAME TRANSMISSION BUT FLUID
IS MUCH CHEAPER. -Torque converter clutch. Yes it can go bad just like any clutch, because this tranny
engages this clutch very early causing premature wear and tear. In sport mode it can engage clutch as early as at rst gear!! That’s why we get decent mpg from
this tranny. In other words it is more like a manual tranny with torque converter working only at very low speeds and low rpm. So I would not recommend
driving it very aggressively in the city, unless you enjoy paying 4-5k for a new tranny. Don’t forget this tranny handles 300-400hp and some impressive torque.
Driving in normal mode, TC can last up to 300kmls!! most common symptoms of bad clutch: -sometimes when clutch is very bad it will throw 1721 error clucth
slip -bad MPG. Without TC clutch your car is still driveable, but you can feel its very weak even though engine feels strong -after 4th gear tachometer arrow is not
steady -weak pickups, downshifting when driving uphill -bad slipping clutch will overheat tranny pump and nally will kill internal tranny parts (clucths, valve
body, seals, etc) good news you can have your TC rebuilt for around 300$ and from personal experience i must say its not as perfect as new, but decent still.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DON'T FORGET TO RESET TRANSMISSION ADAPTATIONS AFTER ANY REPAIR DONE ON THE TRANSMISSION!!! IF YOU DON'T RESET IT,
TRANNY WON'T SHIFT ANY BETTER BECAUSE IT REMEMBERS BAD VALUES. SOME PPL THINK PRESSING GAS PEDAL AND SAYING SOME MAGIC WORDS
RESETS TRANSMISSIONS EGS ADAPTATIONS IS A TOTAL MADE UP JOKE. YOU CAN ONLY RESET IT WITH BMW SOFTWARE INPA, ISTA, AND SOME OTHER
SOFTWARE SNAP ON ETC. I know its a long list of issues, but if you take care of your tranny every 80-100kmls it pays for itself pretty good. Most important thing
for this tranny is correct uid pressure and temps, other parts like clutches are very durable and made with highest quality standard. Don't forget the same
tranny they still install on newest Bentley, Rolls Royce, Audi, Maserati and other luxury brands. This tranny is way more reliable than Mercedes one or Lexus
trannies with same specs. Great prices on BMW parts you can get from www.rmeuropean.com, they are pretty good and sell only OEM parts from original
suppliers. All transmission parts you can nd here http://www.thectsc.com/catalog/6-speed-parts-113.html
This entry was posted in bmw mechanial problems engine, tranny etc, TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS and tagged 6hp26, mechatronic gasket, mechatronics,
pressure loss, solenoid, square gasket, TC, torque converter, valve body, zip kit on August 13, 2014 [http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3738] .
137 thoughts on “Everything about your ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 transmission issues”
Antonio
November 18, 2014 at 1:03 am
Hello, great information. Is there any way to program the shift points of a ZF6HP26? Thanks, Antonio
logic7repair@gmail.com Post author
December 1, 2014 at 9:36 pm
what do you mean by shifting points??? you mean rmware?? you can update it but shifting points is not easy unless you wanna hack it
Brett
A tuner can adjust the load ratings in the engine’s computer, that the trans relates to. This is useful for when the engine power has been increased signi cantly
from stock. A tuner can also adjust the shift pressures.
Sonnax zip kits are also helpful for these transmissions.
Danny
February 17, 2015 at 6:43 pm
I get the symptoms of a bad TCC. it engages but is weak under 2000 rpm. I replaced the torque converter, but it did not x the problem. possible solenoid issue?
March 6, 2015 at 6:51 pm

you need valve body rebuilt or new valve body from ZF
patrick vela
September 27, 2016 at 5:14 pm
how much pay should somebody pay for such a task if they cant do it themselves?
September 28, 2016 at 3:15 am
WELL, you did it once yourself and burned the ampli er, so did it worth it?
jorge villa
April 12, 2015 at 12:42 am
does remanufactured mechatronic zf transmission really work?
April 20, 2015 at 5:26 pm

it works as brand new if done right and tested.
zf unit is also rebuilt
Shahan Uddin
April 19, 2015 at 7:33 pm
Hi excellent article, I have a ZF 6HP28 Tranny in my Audi A4 3.0 TDI Quattro and i have no drive in any gears the clutch is not engaging and the only fault code im
getting is 1588 powertrain control module overtemperture condition. Do you think if i replaced all the gaskets it will solve my problem. I have checked the Ohms
on all solenoids and they are 5.1 for all but the black 1 which is 10.6. Thanks
April 20, 2015 at 5:20 pm
well you have overheating issue, and you should resolve it rst. check heat exchanger or replace it.
but consider valve body rebuilt or replace it with new one form ZF 1600$ though
Rob Uhler
I have a 6hp26 from a 2003 Jaguar XKR I bought with 102K miles and not running. I went to change the uid in it to your recommended ZF Life guard since I have
it out of the car. Inside I found the Shift Position Sensor part of the Transmission Control Module was cracked. I took it out and o the valve body.
Where can I get another one?
What about a Ford one and having it reprogrammed?
Is it possible that when I took the shift cable o I damaged it? I was having trouble with the getting it o .
Thanks!
January 7, 2016 at 6:13 pm
welll everyhting is possible, everythinng is breakable. not sure what happened but you need another valvebody, get it rebuilt instead and it will shoft like new
Desmond Murphy
I have a cycling revs issue driving only after a oil and lter change this has become noticeably more prominent
options :
1 Replace with used box cost 570 euro
2 Recondition box 2200 euro
3 Investigate further to nd exact problem
I am considering used replacement

any suggestions welcome
by the way no fault codes smooth gear changes
December 29, 2015 at 1:03 am
you need to rebuild valve body, if it didnt help it is your torque converter is worn out.
Magnus
Hello!
I have this transmission in my 2003 XKR.
My problem is that the rpm when the engine is cold goes up and down when driving. The biggest problem is that the transmission makes squik noice when i
make a kickdown from gear 6 to 5. The transmission goes in to safemode. I have changed the oil but I still have the same problem. Need your advice here.
Regards
Magnus

sounds like valve body problem or and torque converter, but rst you need valve body rebuilt
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Bobby Lucero
January 4, 2016 at 7:15 am
Hello, I have a 2009 750Li and there is certain times when I drive the car cold and put it into park, the gear selector light will toggle between P and N. You can
hear something clicking just below the gear selector as well. I will let the vehicle roll when putting it into park and it engages. It does not pop out of Park when
this happens. I have never noticed this happen after the vehicle warms up. Do I have a bad solenoid/park cylinder in the mechatronics unit, or is it a gear selector
issue? Can I get away with a solenoid kit if it is in the transmission? Thanks alot!!
1) read EGS errors in ista or any other tool

2) most likely yu need to replace at least square gasket between mechatronic
3) mechatronic valve body rebuilt
David Jones
Hi, I recently had revs jumping up and down slightly whilst driving more so on an incline, had the oil and lter and sump changed, still did the same, was told buy
a transmission place it was the torque converter, so spoke to a local garage who said they could do the job, had the torque converter sent away to be
reconditioned, re t back and new oil again replaced with ZF oil they said it took just over 9 litres, but since having car back I have a shuddering once I go over 25-
30 mph and it gets worse up to 60-70. the gear changes on the car feel very smooth, I have had the rubber coupling on the drive shaft changed and had the
wheels balance but no di erence.
March 11, 2016 at 7:48 pm
torque converter clutch slipping, get TC rebuil alojg with valve body and square a=gasket
Ricky Boggio
January 20, 2016 at 11:30 am
Hello , I have a x5 2005 , have a delay to get reverse , and when I get to a red light I feel a strong hit like other car crash in my rear bumper,what can check it out,
thank u very much for your help
January 29, 2016 at 11:02 pm
valve body rebuilt is your option.

Alex
This is a great article and spot on. For those questioning whether a rebuilt valve body is necessary, if absolutely is if you are experiencing the symptoms
described. I have a 2009 E64 650 and had all symptoms described with multiple tranny faults and safe mode experiences. Had the valve body rebuilt at 75k
miles. Works like new; back to the screamer I knew it as. Only di erence is our shop built it from scratch out of brass instead of aluminum. Documented the
entire process and shared with ZF. Been one year since rebuild, it wasn’t cheap but totally worth it.
German
February 3, 2016 at 8:36 am
Great article, quick one , 2004 bmw 530i the faults are 4f85 , 4f8a and 4f84 , the transmission as being rebuild but the same symptom still there when shift from
4 to 5 (sleeping) transmission fault light come on.
March 11, 2016 at 7:38 pm
valve body was rebuilt and adaptatios reset?

Paul
I have a zf 6hp26 in a X5 that on a cold start has a hard hesitation when you accelerate. It only does it on complete cold start and only once then it drives and
shifts ne. Any ideal what it could be?!
Thanks Paul
March 11, 2016 at 7:38 pm
you need valve body rebuilt or at least change square gasket, it most likely leaking ressure
Mark
Hi
This is a great write up, thank you!
I have a 2004 E65 745Li and it drives ne when cold. But in tra c it is not a smooth gear engage into 1st (as it should not be noticeable) it is a bit of a gentle jolt.
Once the car is up to full temperature and I put it in park, it wont go back to drive or reverse, it gives an error on the dash. If I restart then it is usually ne but
might roll forward rst and then really jolt hard into gear. Checked transmission uid level and it is 100% ne. Indi says that it needs a new tranny as fault codes
say clutch is slipping. Does this sound right?
Thank you!
March 11, 2016 at 7:33 pm
rst try to get valve body rebuilt and pay attention and what temps your tranny is running, if its running too hot you will gw all kind of slipping etc
A.S
I have an Indian bmw e90 2008.it has 95000 kms ini it.shows transmission faulty error when shifting from 4th to 5th 90 percent of the time.and sometimes in 3rd
to 4th too.it is smooth till gear 3.have tried driving in manual also.sometimes I am able to shift gear at a good time so it doesn’t get a fault.and fault goes after
restarting.it changes smoothly when I accelerate more.and sometimes has problem in downshifting as well.got transmission uid topped up from company.the
service manager told me that it won’t make any di erence even if you ush and ll fresh uid.600 ml was topped up and it was full.still problem didn’t go away.
A.S
Obd shows codes

4f85
4f89
4f83
4f8a
Thankyou
March 11, 2016 at 7:31 pm
valve body pressure loss, better rebuild it
March 11, 2016 at 7:32 pm
you need valve body rebuilt along with square gasket replacement. driving like this puts enoromous wear on the clutches
duran
05 525i
Dtc 4e25 electronic pressure contol valve 6
What would be required to x that?

Thanks in advanced!
March 11, 2016 at 7:29 pm

solenoid went bad, but i still recommend full vb rebuilt
Steve
this article seems to be the best single source of information regarding common issues with the 6hp26. Wondering if I could get the thoughts of someone more
knowledgeable than me. Sitting in the driveway, in Park the gear shifter in the cabin will click occasionally (as if trying to shift into gear) in Drive (with the brake
on) the car will attempt to shift just about every 2 seconds (like a clock). It will click, the “D” indicator in the instrument cluster will blink and the RPMs will rise
slightly and fall. It will do this twice every 2 seconds until I put it back into park. Keep in mind once you start driving, it is smooth as can be, shifts and drives
awlessly.
March 11, 2016 at 7:25 pm
valve body problem, you need to diagnose clutrch adapation numbers or get valve body rebulilt. they dont last more tan 70k
S Ells
I have a ZF6HP26 in 4.2 XK8, OK when cold but when at running temp’ the trans’ whines on light throttle. It shifts ok and does not slip, any ideas please ?
March 11, 2016 at 7:23 pm
could be torque converter or valve body leaking pressure. you need to check clutch adaptation values
Christopher
This is all great information Bravo!

E93 2007 335cic mileage: 53,300. No problems shifting into drive from park however seems like the vehicle is stuck in 2nd gear (will not shift into any other gear).
Trans warning light stays on and cannot reset fault.
Fault: FC 4F90 EGS RATIO MONITORING GEARSHIFT 2-1
I’m thinking about changing out the solenoids and seals/gaskets. What do you think?
March 11, 2016 at 7:00 pm
mechatronic needs rebuilt or you can call it valve body
Je
March 3, 2016 at 8:55 pm
This is Je
Have a 2007 Bmw 750 il. Stereo has lost most of audio power. Front speaker work pretty good w no distortion,
Rear speakers in rear doors and subs sound like they are blown and very weak and crackley with no de nition when playing the stereo or cd.
Turned fader all the way up to front speakers and there is no static but stereo lacks a lot of volume and power.
What do u think? The stereo itself works and all functions work but the sound quality.
Je
423-361-1638
March 11, 2016 at 6:56 pm
both units need rebuilt. ask unit and ampli er
gibson
March 7, 2016 at 9:12 am
my E90 320i is holding gear and not shifting up . its only one forwarg gear and reverse , i am getting CC ID 254 .

March 11, 2016 at 6:53 pm
valve body problem, pressure loss or solenoid stuck
wudson
March 8, 2016 at 2:53 am
I have 04 530i
I feel a jerk after putting the car on drive
All gears seems to engage ne once the car is driving.
Not sure what’s causing this issue , here is the fault code
Gearbox control unit

Module Identi cation
Hardware Number 7543092 Hardware Version Number 71 Coding Index 00 Diagnostic Index 0201 Variant Index 3253 Date Of Manufacture
20031022 System Supplier Bosch Message Catalog Version 0.13.150 Software Version 20.36.0 OS Version 2.3.10 Current Fault Codes
4FB0
Gearbox: Internal error (EPROM/FLASH)
Error will not cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed
4FB1
Gearbox: Internal error (EEPROM)
Error will cause a warning light
Error is currently present
Test conditions have been completed
March 11, 2016 at 6:51 pm
valve body computer eprom failure. try to update software rst, if no good get another ecm
Anthony
March 9, 2016 at 4:33 am
hi
i am from South africa , Johannesburg
I am looking for a control solonoid shift valve for a 530 i 2005 bmw
EDS2 shift solonoid . on transmission valve body
Please can you advise if you can supply ,or if you can recomend someone in Johannesburg that can supply .
cell.0714841957
March 11, 2016 at 6:10 pm

i recommend you to get entire valve body rebuilt at revmax.com
Apurva
March 9, 2016 at 4:17 pm
Hi,
I have a 2009 BMW 750i (F01). I am having harsh shifting and surging especially when going up hill in the morning (cold). I am also having periodic lockups where
the transmission won’t shift to the next higher gear. Speci c example, today after accelerating from a red light, once I got to around 35-40mph, the transmission
would not shift to the next gear. The engine went up to 5500 rpm and about 50mph before I let my foot o the gas. But even then the car would not shift up until
the speed went back down to around 40mph and then the car surged foward and I could accelerate again. Your thoughts on what is going are appreciated.
Dealer has not been able to completely diagnose. Just replaced Guibo and things got better (2-1 shift and clunk noises have gone away), but this inconsistent
shifting and lockup still is happening
March 11, 2016 at 6:09 pm
get valve body rebuilt, if it doesn’t help, then you need entire tranny rebuilt. bottom line -dont drive it, because it puts enormous wear on the clutches
Andrew Shitakha
March 10, 2016 at 4:25 pm
I have an E60 2004 BMW. It has clocked 70K mls. I recently got an error message” Transmission Fault. Get the car checked by BMW service centre”
The gearbox gets stuck mostly between 1 and 2 , and occasional when reversing uphill.
When I take the car to my mechanic, and he clears the message using the diagnostic computer the gear shifts are back to normal for a short while but seem not
to be very smooth.
I have been forced to drive the car in Sports/Manual mode which does not result in this problem but as soon as i change to automatic the vehicle will not move
for long before it gets stuck again between Gears 1&2 especially in tra c
My mechanic recommended that i replace transmission yet another mechanic said i need to check on state of solenoid switch.
What would you recommend
March 11, 2016 at 6:07 pm
no, you need valve body rebuilt professionally or get rebuilt one from ZF
sorin
March 10, 2016 at 7:39 pm
Hello, i have a bmw e60 lci 525d and i can’t engage Driver or reverse or manual, it jumps in Park.Is bock valve ?
March 11, 2016 at 6:06 pm
you need to check valvebody rst or replace it with rebuilt one.
Oscar G
March 11, 2016 at 4:08 am
Just bought this 2009 528i Drive perfectly last 2 months. No oil leaks. Shifts great drives great. Now have had multiple trans malfunctions while speeding up
down shifting. Shut it down and it runs ne. Unless u down shift again it doesn’t do it all the time. But seems to be happening more often. I’m thinking just the
square gasket??? But obviously I’m going to have to get into the pan. Right? Mechanic told the wife it was a glitch. Drive it.
March 11, 2016 at 6:00 pm
square gasket is a must every 70kmls or 5-7yrs.

if it doesnt help, get valve body rebuilt. could be aullty solenoid or accumulator went at.DONT DRIVE IT!!!! OR YOU KILL ACTUAL CLUTCHES
Bill
March 17, 2016 at 8:03 pm
2009 BMW 335d with 47,500 miles. Pops out of gear 3-4 shift and then free rev with Gear indicator on dash. Cycle on and o with key clears warning and drives
normally. Only happens once in a great while. Code pulled 4F85 “Ratio monitor clutch E plausibility”. I want to replace pan/ lter, uid and square adapter gasket.
Think this will help?
March 21, 2016 at 6:43 pm
IT MIGHT HELP, BUT DOUBT IT, VALVE BODY REBUILT IS A MUST. I BELIEVE 3 SERIES TRANNY HAS BETTER GASKET VS 7 SERIES 6HP26
Phil
March 18, 2016 at 6:16 pm
This is great info that tells me exactly what I need to do, but where can I nd a quali ed ZF repair specialist to do the repairs for me?
March 21, 2016 at 6:41 pm
REVMAX.COM
Bill S.
March 19, 2016 at 11:48 pm
Hi,
I have an 06 Range Rover. The trans shifts great all the time. Only issue is that once it goes into closed loop, the RPM’s will surge between 30mph and 55mph
under light or moderate throttle. Most notable when lightly excellerting or climbing a hill. It’s been re ashed. No codes. It surges in rhythm and does not chatter.
I thought it was an engine surge at rst but it must be the converter locking and unlocking. Had it at the dealer for two weeks and they were dealing with their
hot line service. And they couldn’t nd the cause. In the end they suggested to replace the converter and the valve body and see what happens. But to me the
converter doesn’t seem to be bad. Shifting manually it is ne other than a weird second gear surge or a type of hesitation when Revving it out. Hopefully just a
valve body rebuild?
Thanks in advance
March 21, 2016 at 6:40 pm
VALVE BODY REBUILT FIRST, AND THEN IF STILL ISSUES-CONVERTER
Tom
August 2, 2016 at 7:36 pm
6hp28 tranny in bmw 330d with 200k miles. Shuddering under throttle in 5th gear like its slipping a bit and revs rise/fall. Can get a knock and bump if manually
shifting 4th to 5th under throttle. Ratio monitoring code 4th to 5th if forced to cause the fault. Slight 2/1 downshift clunk and slight delayed into reverse and
clunk sometimes. New/rebuild transmission time ?? One place suggested I send them valve body for testing, just worried a clutch is already gone and would be
wasting money?
August 4, 2016 at 3:06 pm
hi, no it would not be a waste of money. It could be the clutch is gone bc at 200kmls you never rebuilt a vb, but if you rebuild a vb and then if problem is still
there, you just need actual tranny clutches rebuilt. all i meant is its not gonna be a waste, but there is a high chance it might x everything. also dont forget to
reset tranny adaptations after new vb installed.
Mel C
August 27, 2016 at 1:36 am
I have a 03 745li with 185k. Transmission was replaced at 115k by dealer, but now, it is overheating while in Drive with the brake on (red light or tra c). It isn’t
the engine since I’ve checked the temps with INPA, and the tranny can reach 115 degrees C. It cools down when the car it’s moving or in Park. I get no error codes
except when it reaches that temp, it shifts at high RPMs (3500-4500). I also do get the hard 2-1 downshift clunk most of the time. No other clunk while moving in
Drive or Reverse. I am guessing it can be the Torque Converter, since I’ve replaced the uid, and lter, and VB seals. The VB looks perfect with no discoloration on
the solenoids. Any Ideas? Or do I need a new transmission? I greatly appreciate your input.
115 IS WAY TOO HIGH. WHAT THE ENGINE TEMPS? USUALLY HEATER CONTROL VALVE IS THE PROBLEM, SO ENGINE CANT BE BLED WELL AND THEREFORE YOU
GET AIR POCKETS AND TRANSMISSION HEAT EXCHANGER CONNECTED TO THE ENGINE RADIATOR.
ALSO YOU SHOULD FLUSH THE HEAT EXHANGER, OLD DEBRIS CAN CLOG IT AND TRANNY WILL OVERHETA.
Jill Mulligan
August 28, 2016 at 2:23 am
I had a problem with my 2009 bmw 328ix transmission when it suddenly would not go into reverse. I made the mistake of taking it to a local AAMCO since the
nearest BMW shop is 100 miles away. They told me I needed a valve body rebuild. They pulled the valve body, installed new manual valve assembly, sonnax zip
kit, new lter, pan gasket and used dextron 6 uid. The car drove rough between 1st and second with clunking and also when coming down hill to decellerate, it
would jerk shifting down. The mechanics said the car would have to “relearn” my driving and it would eventually adapt. Now I am reading about the computer
needing programing after this type of repair. I told the mechanic I was not satis ed with the way my car is shifting and he said he was aware of a relearning but
needed to study up on it. Is there a software he can use that will x this, or is it only available at a BMW shop?
YES YOU NEED TO RESET ADAPTATIONS AFTER ANY REPAIR ON THE TRANNY. INPA OR ISTA CAN DO IT
Luis najarro
August 29, 2016 at 6:34 am
I have a 05 bmw 545i second to rst speed York,have a rebuild valve body,new bushings inside tranny and new software still the York,only don’t York 30miles
after the realearn the York is back again..what can be ..the tcm ?let me know tanks..
DID YOU CHECK ADAPTATIONS AFTER REBUILT?
TB
August 29, 2016 at 7:01 pm
I have a 2011 335d which I have had dyno tuned with an increase of 120hp 160lbs of tq to the wheels. The tranny is now the weak point of the car. You can really
feel how slow the shifts are and how slow the TC locks up. This info is stored in the TCU not the ECU correct? What can be done to modify the TCU for quicker
shifts and fast TC lockups etc? I’m very knowledgeable with all of the tools and software needed just not on the diesel version of this car. Any help is greatly
appreciated!
Tom B
August 29, 2016 at 7:01 pm
I have a 2011 335d which I have had dyno tuned with an increase of 120hp 160lbs of tq to the wheels. The tranny is now the weak point of the car. You can really
feel how slow the shifts are and how slow the TC locks up. This info is stored in the TCU not the ECU correct? What can be done to modify the TCU for quicker
shifts and fast TC lockups etc? I’m very knowledgeable with all of the tools and software needed just not on the diesel version of this car. Any help is greatly
appreciated!
YES YOU NEED TO REFLASH TRANSMISSION ECU
Aleksandr
August 29, 2016 at 10:35 pm
bmw e70 6hp26 when starting the engine sometimes a hit and automatic error position valve jammed writes . a common problem in such automatic
transmissions especially after the renovation there that can actually be ?
YES ITS COMMON, YOU NEED TO REBUILD YOUR VLAVE BODY OR MECHATRONIC UNIT
Mo Rahman
August 31, 2016 at 1:50 am
Hi.
Firstly i wanted to say great write up, very resourceful information.
I have a problem with my 2009 335d zf gearbox, vehicle has been remapped about 370bhp/730nm of torque. In normal D mode the gearbox is perfectly ne, in
DS and MANUAL mode on full throttle changing gears from No. 4 – 5 just before reaching or after even 4000 rpm, the gear judders or slips, po, i drive will show
transmission fault, visit work shop, power and gear ratio is limited 2500rpm. When restarting engine the fault goes away, drives perfectly normal, this has
happend a couple of times now, when driving 300 or 400 miles, while car is hot.. Thanks
YOU NEED TO DIAGNOSE AND READ ERROR CODES, BUT SOUNDS LIKE VALVE BODY PROBLEM.
cj
Hello cj from Australia

Firstly congrats on a great Blog and thank you on behalf of all for continuously helping us out .
I have just purchased a 2004 e60 530i

Done 70k kms
Trans – Automatic
Was serviced by BMW till 40k kms and then local mechanic after
Problem
The car when accelerated mostly uphill and even more so when it has more ppl sitting , the car when shifting from 4 to 5 . The engine revs out like there was a
neutral gear in between and then engages into 5th gear . A minute later the auto trans error comes up . It doesn’t happen all the time .
The mechanic scanned and found 4F51 5 gear monitoring .
I don’t think the car transmission was ever serviced. What is your diagnosis and what are the list of things you suggest I do considering the car may have never
had a transmission service .
Where can I get parts in Melbourne and any mechanics you re commend ?
no sure about melbourne, but try valve body rebuilt or at least replace solenoids in there along with square mechatronic gasket. just folllow the article, its all the
same for these transmissions.
Greg
Changing solenoids wont help. I have the same issue, had already replaced solenoids, gaskets, seals, valve body separator plate… Still the same.. Probably one of
pressure regulators has worn out..

PRESSURE REGULATOR=SOLENOID IN THIS TRANNY, DID YOU RESET ADAPTATIONS AFTER YOU REPLACED EVERYTHING?
OF OCURSE IF YOU DID IT LATE, IT MIGHT HAVE AFFECTED ACTUAL CLUTCHES AND BUSHINGS
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jailer
Hi I got a bmw 750 li 2006 and is shifting hard from 3rd gear to 4th gear and slip and I’m having a code solenoid 3 interlock , also some times shift hard 1 to 2nd
gear. Any idea what could be the issue please I’m kind desperate with this issue. Thanks
YOU NEED TO REPLACE AT LEAST ALL SOLENOIDS SINCE YOU CANT TEST THEM YOURSELF. SOLENOIDS DO GO BAD VERY OFTEN
jailer
Hi I got a bmw 750 li 2006 and is shifting hard from 3rd gear to 4th gear and slip and I’m having a code solenoid 3 interlock , also some times shift hard 1 to 2nd
gear. Any idea what could be the issue please I’m kind desperate with this issue. Thanks….
ANY IDEA? IT TELLS YOU HAVE SOLENOID PROBLEM RIGHT THERE. REPLACE THEM AND IT SHOULD BE ALL RIGHT
adam jones
hi i have a bmw 530 d paddle shift 2007

between 3rd and 4th gear when selecting 4th one it engages gear the revs drop as it just drops in gear no clutch.
iv also noticed on the same 3rd to 4th most of the time the gear will go in to 4th around 18-1900 rpm and driving same style it will change about 2400rpm and
this is only between 3rd to 4th all other gears are ok. the oil and sump was replaced by bmw in 2012 t about 60k the car now has 80k.
would a software update sort this out ?
the problem only started after gong sideways around a round about for a bit ;-(
is this normal gearbox behavier ? or am i being parannoyed
any advice would be great thanks

NO ITS NOT, YOU NEED TO SERVICE YOUR VALVE BODY
Tom Bishop
2004 530i Code 4F8C. error goes away and drives ne after restart. Not stuck and won’t shift out of seconde gear. Any suugestions ?
standard mechatroincs issues. get it rebuilt or at least replace solenoids
Tom Bishop
2004 530i Code 4F8C stuck in second gear. Dealer says new tranny. Your thoughts?
get valve body rebuilt before rebuilding entire tranny. it might x the issues
Jason Smith
Hi, I have a 04 525i M/Sport.

Mechanics i have taken this to have not been able to speci clly tell what the problem is.
I have 2 fault codes that appear after scanning.
5088 Selector Swich L1-L4
5089 They dont know
When driving at low speed and i take my foot o the thottle, or stationary at tra c lights, The transmission will drop out of drive. The ” D ” in the dash cluster will
disappear and is blank though all other symbols on the dash are ne.
I have all other operations P R N and they work ne.
It has sometimes come back on its own, or the failsafe will engage. After restarting, failsafe is cleared and car operates as normal. It might be the next day or 2
before it happens again.
If i keep revs slightly up when staionary or using any throttle while driving , it wont drop out
I would greatly appreciate any thoughts you had on this.

Thank You
Jason
sounds like gear selector switch could be faulty
Ciprianni
Hi there,
Thanks for sharing all this information with us. Extremely helpful. I too have an issue with my tranny, car is e65 730d, ZF 6hp26.
Its tuned to approx 350hp and 800nm.

Car goes into failsafe when hard accelerating and changing from 5th to 6th and only happens around 160-170 km/h. Or when hard accelerating and shifting
from 6th to 5th at around the same speed. Would it be because of high torque? Oil was changed approx 5000km ago.
Trouble codes:
5140
4F4C
4F51
Any help is appreciated

Regards

it could be valve body problem, you need to check adaptation values rst, but in 99% cases valve body causes lots of di erent isuues
George Adair
Hi, couldn’t nd where to register myself to post but hope you see this, I have BMW 545i 2004 Automatic and have fault messages appearing relating to
“Transmission Fault, Possible reduction in acceleration, Have the problem checked by nearest BMW dealer” Also in tra c at around 35-40mph the gears jerk
back and forth as if it cant make its mind up which gear and lastly when accelerating with pedal hard down gears change up to 3rd the hold for approx. 1.5 secs
then an almighty thump and gears carry on changing ! Had valve body and mechatronics replaced, still got these faults, A ZF technician told me could be DRUM
BUSH ! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
please read the article, it explains your problem. i cannot keep typing the same thing over and over. you need to start from valve body rebuilt, if done in time you
can save your tranny drums, driving like this will nally kill the tranny and you will need full rebuilt or new tranny.
Mal
can you please advise if solenoids can breakdown under heat.

i have done a resistance test and all test OK.
Is it possible that solenoids could still be faulty ?
Thankyou
resistance test only tests if coil is broken, it won;t test actual pressure regulation properties of this prssure regulator solenoid. its not the old school solenoid type
where you just test for resistance.
Dave L
2006 Range Rover Sport ….transmission shifted ok other than the occasional 2-1 blip ….adaptive strategy was errased for transmission and now it cant be driven
in D mode. 1-2 shift bangs hard 2-3 the same and will not hit 4th , tries but reverts back to third. Manual mode works for all gears except 3-4 , sometimes it will
shift up ok and others it tries but then as in D reverts back to 3rd.
Dealer says software is ok and recomends trans replacement . Not sure why adaptive strategy errase would cause all these issues …also slight delay into
engaging reverse when selected ….thoughts ?

resetting adaptaitons when valve body isnt in good shape will cause failsafe transmission mode.read carefully my article and you’ll nd that mechatronics
module is the most important on this transmission. you need valve body rebuilt or at least new solenoid pack
Dave L
Should I replace the mechatrinic unit as well or do you think I can get away with changing iut the solenoid pack on its own ?
Thanks
YES, TRY SOLENOID PACK FIRST. YOU DON’T NEED TO REPLACE ENTIRE UNIT. MECHATRONIC INCLUDES ECM+VALVE BODY. VALVE BODY GOES BAD, BUT NOT
ECM USUALLY
Faisal Siddiqui
F02 – Transmission error reading P0716 – Turbine/Input Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range.
Symptoms : error when cold starting the car, gear shifting is jerky. Once the car goes beyond 10mph the error vanishes, restart the car and it drives normally.
Else it will drive only in 3rd gear (i presume).
Workshop says, speed sensor is linked to a computer which will also need replacement. $2000 – $3000. Reused parts cant be reprogrammed.
Any suggestion will be helpful.
WELL IT DOES SOUND LIKE A MECHATRONIC UNIT PROBLEM, BECAUSE SPEED SENSOR IS LOCATED ON THE ECM
kers
October 24, 2016 at 7:00 pm
Hello, I found this website by searching om Zf 6hp 19. Very nice to have all this information. I drive a BMW 530i 2005, 200.000 km. I bought this car 5 years ago.
At 140.000 I saw some oil leak on the tranny. I went to Germany (live in Holland) to ZF, the changed the seal and changed also the oil.
At 150.000 km from 5 to 6 not so smooth. I went to ZF service in the Netherlands, They reset the adaptive values. Since then the overall shifst are not very
smooth anymore. Not a real issue but. Zf Netherlands told me that this was acceptable. The o ered a complete revision of the tranny. No deal. At 170.000 km I
went to a tranny workplace nearby, they replaced the solenoids. It improved a little but I am still not satis ed. They told me, the shifting is acceptable for a car
with this kilometers. Now at 200.000 km the shifting became a bit less smoother, When I drive with a caravan it works ne. Another issue came up since a few
months. After slowing down from 80 km/h to 30 km/h, it takes some seconds to pick up the Tranny, or engine. Like is hesitate to chose the right gear. In manual
mode no hesitation. So I think the tranny is causing it. No fault codes are present.
logic7repair Post author
your solenoids are bad, if you replace them and reset adaptations, it might x it
Yousef
October 29, 2016 at 10:17 am
My car is 2004 BMW 530i with 268000 KM on it. I got the following message today.
“Transmission fault …Transmission failsafe activated. Possible reduction is acceleration/ drive moderately! Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW
service”
and this is the detected code : 5088 sensors, transmission switch L1-L4
during receiving the message I did feel that the gear shifting were slightly hard. After seeing the message I powered down the car for 5 minutes and restarted it.
The message did not come again and gear shifting was smooth as normal.
This message appear two time or three per week.
Please note that I’ve not replaced the transmission lter or oil
Any suggestion will be helpful.
try new valve body along with oil and lter

Patrick Quinn
166k miles 2006 BMW 530xit, originally had a harsh 2-1 shift, changed trans oil and lter and reset adaptations. Now i have transmission faults and the 4-5 shift
slips and triggers the light under spirited driving. After reading this website And the reviews, i am pretty con dent mechatronic seals are needed. Should i need
the entire assembly rebuilt or just seals?? I am thinking it can handle the new, thinner uid
NO, YOUR VALVE BODY WAS ON THE LAST LEG, AFTER RESET IT CANNOT ADAPT WITH HIGHER PRESSURE VALUES YOU RESET.
REBUILD VALVE BOSY OR AT LEAST INSTALL NEW SOLENOIDS
Feras
November 7, 2016 at 7:16 pm
Hi,
I have an x5m e70 2012, 110 kkm on the clock. Recently im hearing loud whining noise from the tranny! Coukd it be the TC? Shifting from 1-2 or 2-1 was a bit
harsh, after adaptation reset it went ne, but the whining noise is still there. Any clue what could this be?
yes whining noise indicates TC wear&tear. You can rebuild it for 300-500$. I would recommend valve body rebuilt as wel
Pingback: My 6hp26 experience - Xoutpost.com
NOT THAT SIMPLE:

apart from solenoids there is a valve body with pistons and other things. You can only tell if tranny is doing okay only by checking adaptations values.
in lots of cases solenoids can save the day, but not always. you also need to rest adaptations after this
Tore Skogheim
Hi!
My 530da 2007 (lci) with ga6hp26z gearbox feels strange sometimes.

Like when i stop in a intersection and start again it feels like it is slipping a bit ( in 1 gear), like high rpm and little power. suddenly it`s working again. From
slipping to normal seems kind of hard.
Range on my car is 196 000km, no proof of oilchange ever. Gearshift feels ne and no faults
I am afraid it is cluch problems.
What do you think?
Is it the same square mechatronic gasket in all this gearboxes?
yes you can start from that gasket. don’t forget to reset adaptatioons, but most likely this is a valve body failure
Helge Kassel
Hello from Seville/Spain, just found the link to publish my question.
thank You for sharing Your knowledge in the Web. I am preparing my Jaguar XKE with aV12 engine to perform as a daily driver.
One of my thoughts was to change the old BW12-automatic to a modern automatic transmission with Overdrive.
As i know the 6HP26/28`s have an integrated ECU programmed to the speci c features of the coupled engine.
I would like to know what kind of sensor connections needs the 6HP from the engine (f.E. throttle position sensor or kickdown switch).
I am aware, that there is no possibility to connect to an ODB-system, because in 1971 that does not exist.
My ides was to search for a transmission from a Jaguar XK8 due to the similar engine characeristic.
Any opinion on this?
Best regards from Seville
Helge Kassel
best option to install bmw engine with tranny and harness, or you will run into lots of issues with this tranny setup. it needs can network to communicate with
the engine.
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James Brown
March 5, 2017 at 9:08 pm
My 2013 activehybrid 3 won’t shift into park. I went for a 600kms fun run with a few friends with alot of spirited driving and half way through when we stopped
for a break I noticed the car won’t shift in Park and if I shut it down and try to lock the car I can’t. Runs perfectly o reverse and all other gears. Just won’t go into
park. The N symbol blinks and the car goes into N.
March 9, 2017 at 4:28 pm
you need to read codes rst, obviously something is worng with EGS or mechatronic module.
Pingback: X5 30D 6 Speed gearbox questions
Andrew G
November 5, 2017 at 3:13 pm
Transmission failure fault. 2005 545i had transmission replaced almost 4 years ago. Getting fault more often in past few months. After driving for a while then
returning to car and reversing fault appears can hear gears shifting loudly in parked position. Like gears are loose sound very bad. After about 20 mins of vehicle
turned o car returns to running smooth again no loud gears shifts normal. Need help thanks
all help already written in this artcile. valve body/solenoids

Everything About Your ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 Transmission Issues - BMW LOGIC7

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December 1, 2014 at 9:36 pm

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 6, 2015 at 6:51 pm

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

September 28, 2016 at 3:15 am

does remanufactured mechatronic zf transmission really work?

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

April 20, 2015 at 5:26 pm

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

April 20, 2015 at 5:20 pm

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

January 7, 2016 at 6:13 pm

1 Replace with used box cost 570 euro

2 Recondition box 2200 euro

3 Investigate further to nd exact problem

I am considering used replacement

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

December 29, 2015 at 1:03 am

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

January 7, 2016 at 6:03 pm

Pingback: Audi S5 V8 automatic transmission issues

Pingback: Audi S5 V8 automatic transmission issues - AudiWorld Forums

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

January 7, 2016 at 5:58 pm

1) read EGS errors in ista or any other tool

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 7:48 pm

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

January 29, 2016 at 11:02 pm

valve body rebuilt is your option.

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 7:38 pm

valve body was rebuilt and adaptatios reset?

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 7:38 pm

March 11, 2016 at 7:33 pm

Obd shows codes

March 11, 2016 at 7:31 pm

valve body pressure loss, better rebuild it

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 7:32 pm

Dtc 4e25 electronic pressure contol valve 6

What would be required to x that?

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 7:29 pm

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 7:25 pm

March 11, 2016 at 7:23 pm

This is all great information Bravo!

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 7:00 pm

mechatronic needs rebuilt or you can call it valve body

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 6:56 pm

both units need rebuilt. ask unit and ampli er

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

valve body problem, pressure loss or solenoid stuck

Gearbox control unit

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 6:51 pm

logic7repair@gmail.com Post author

March 11, 2016 at 6:10 pm