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And

How to Set up

a Repair Business
Complete Guide to Repairing Sewing
Machines

Editor: H Waller

ISBN-10: 1904891292

KARNAK PUBLISHING
London
KARNAK PUBLISHING
London
 CONTENTS

Introduction 1

Basic Parts & Controls 3

Sewing Machine Skips Stitches 5

Machine Does Not Stitch Properly 7

Sewing Machine Breaks Upper Thread 14

Lower Thread Breaks 15

Machine Breaks Needles 17

Machine Will Not Feed Fabric Through 17

Machine Doesn't Run Smoothly 18

Machine Does Not Run, But the Motor Runs 19

Motor Does Not Run 19

Shuttle Systems For Sewing Machines 21

Timing The Needle Bar 21

Sewing Machine Tension 25

Tension Assembly, Example 1 25

Removal and Disassembly 26

Tension Assembly, Example II 27

To Reassemble the Tension Unit 28

Tension Assembly, Example HI 31

Adjustments To The Tension Assembly 32

Cleaning, Oiling and Lubrication of Your Machine 34

Oiling And Creasing the Machine 35

Specific Sewing Machine Timing 37

Timing The Shuttle Hook To The Needle Bar 38

Example One - P-260/P-360 Machines 39

Adjusting Needle To The Shuttle Hook 42

Example Two-A Necchi Straight Stitch Machines 42

Clearance Between Needle and Shuttle Hook 44

Shuttle Hook In Shuttle Carrier Adjustment 45

The Presser Bar And Its Purpose 46

Feed Dog Adjustments - Straight Stitch Machine 47

Needle/Shuttle Clearance - Zigzag Machines 49

Free-Arm Sewing Machines 50

Machines With Slanting Shuttle Rotary Hook 52

Example Three - Shuttle Hook And Needle Timing » 52

Machines With Gears 55

Example Four - Timing The Shuttle Hook & Needle Bar 55

Timing The Shuttle Hook 57

Machines With Belt Drive Assembly 59

Example Five - Timing The Shuttle Hook To The Needle "S" Series...59

Example Six - Timing Shuttle Hook To Needle "N" Series 61

Timing The Needle Bar To Shuttle Hook 63

"Model Number" Chart 64

Example Seven - Adjusting Needle Bar Height "Bro" Series 65

Shuttle Hook Point Clearance-Transverse Race Models 66

Timing Shuttle Hook to Needle - Transverse Race & Free Arm 67

Height Of Presser Bar 69

Adjustment of Feed Cam 70

Adjusting The Height Of The Feed Dog 72

Shuttle Driver Shaft and Raceway Clearance Separation 73

ZigZag Width Adjustment 74

ZigZag Satin Stitch Seams 75

Feed Regulator Grooved Cam Adjustment 76

Adjustment To Center Needle In Needle Plate 77

Trouble Shooting Chart For "Example Seven" Machines 78

Hints For The Sewer/Crafter 81

Fabric/Thread/Needle Compatibles 84

Fibers and Usage 85

Fabric, Thread, Needle and Stitch Length Chart 87

Sewing Machine Attachments 89

Fabric Conversion Chart 90

The Sewing Room 91

Sewing Machine Repair as a Home Business 105

Starting Your Business 107

Naming Your Business 109

Business License Ill

State Government Information Numbers 113

Work Out Of My Garage Or Find A Business Location? 116

Bookkeeping 117

Help From the Small Business Administration 121

Setting Business Goals 129

The Sewing Machine Repair Market 132

Charging For Sewing Machine Repair 133

Advertising Your Services 135

Important Disclaimer 142

Checklist for Starting Your Sewing Machine Repair Business 143

Sample Forms and Advertisements 156

Wholesale Suppliers 168

Blindstitch/Hemming Machines 169

Computerized Sewing Machine Example 179

Mechanical Parts Layout 180

Disassemble and Reassemble 184

Adjusting Mechanical Areas 195

Adjusting Electrical Functions 209

NOTES INTRODUCTION

Sewing machine repair is one of the fastest growing profes

sions in the world today. Never before have the money making
opportunities been so great in this field. Sewing magazines,
fabric stores, high schools and colleges are encouraging
millions of women to do their own sewing, as well as sewing
for their children, husbands, boy-friends, etc.

Statistics show that over 85,000,000 (yes, 85 million)

American women, because of the high cost of ready to wear
garments, as well as poor quality workmanship, are now
making almost all the clothing for their entire family. Most of
these women find true satisfaction and enjoyment in making
the family wardrobes on their own sewing machines.

When you consider the fact that there are 85 million or more
sewing machines in homes today, not counting another ten
million sewing machines in grade schools, high schools,
colleges, dry cleaners, tailor shops, hospitals, prisons, there is a
never ending supply of sewing machines that need to be
cleaned, adjusted, timed, etc. All sewing machines need to be
serviced AT LEAST once a year, some as often as quarterly.

"Sewing Machine Repair as a Home Business" will teach

you how to do over 80% of the repair jobs as well as how to set
up your business, how to advertise, how to charge, etc.

I recommend that those repair jobs that require parts to be

replaced or major overhaul be taken to an authorized service
center for that particular machine. It would require a very large
inventory of parts to allow you to do repairs on all the makes
and models of sewing machines that are available today. The
vast majority of sewing machine repair jobs will be simple
cleaning, oiling, adjusting the tensions and timing, all of which
require no special tools or inventory of parts.
NOTES
A few foreign models require special tools that are made to
adjust their machines only. Your best bet on these machines,
and all machines, is to get as much information as possible
from the caller, so you'll know exactly the type of repair job
you're looking at when you take the job. If the sewing machine
owner talks about a broken part, broken gears, or a major
repair, I would recommend that you send these customers to
your local contact for major repair jobs. Or, if your local repair
shop has agreed to repair these machines FOR YOU, then you
an pick up the machine, take it to be repaired, then pick up the
epaired machine and return it to the customer with an added
harge for the service. Remember this is a service business and
he better service we give our customers, the longer you and I
will stay in business. Excellent service will reward you with
epeat business as well as "word of mouth" advertising as one
eamslress tells her friends about your great service!

If this is your first attempt to do any work on a sewing

nachine, I would suggest that you find a machine or two at
yard sales and, using this book as a guide, proceed to fix the
Machines and get them humming again; then turn around and
re-sell the repaired sewing machines. The more you work on
sewing machines, the more proficient you will become at
diagnosing the problem and getting it fixed.
 BASIC PARTS AND CONTROLS

Spool pin
Thread guide Slitch width regulator
Needle position selector
Pressure regulator Bobbin winding assembly

Take-up lever

Handwheel

Thread guide

Thread check spring —\— Stitch length regulator

Sewing
Tension discs
Reverse stitching

'Hiread guides Tension regulator

Needle clamp
Presser tool clamp Needle
, Throat plate
I*resser fool

Feed

Bobbin
Bobbin case
Slide plate Bobbin-winding tension spring

There are dozens of sewing machines on the market

today, each one emphasizing what they do that other ones
cannot do. In addition, there are hundreds of older models
that are in homes and sewing shops all over the country.
With the emphasis on the differences, it's sometimes easy to
forget how basically similar all sewing machines are. All of
the operating parts that are labeled on the machine on this
page are common to any average machine that will do both
straight and zig zag stitching. The position of some of these
items may differ and be placed somewhat differently on
some machines, but all the parts are there.

The basic requirement of all the various sewing

machines is a precisely timed movement of the needle and
shuttle hook to manipulate the top and bottom (bobbin)
thread to make a stitch. The method the machines use to
make the stitches is shown in figure 101:
 1) The needle penetrates the fabric to take the top
thread into the bobbin area.
2) As the needle rises, the top thread forms a loop for
the shuttle hook to catch.
3) The shuttle hook carries the thread loop around
and under the bobbin case.
4) The loop slides off the hook and bobbin case, and
goes around the bobbin thread.
5) The threads are pulled up and are set into the fabric
as a lockstitch.

Because of the similarities between all of the sewing

machines on the market, it is thus possible to write a sewing
machine repair manual that would apply to all machines.

The instructions written throughout this book are

general in nature and apply to any type of sewing machine.
There may be an exception to some instructions because
there are hundreds of different makes and models of sewing
machines made all over the world. To make a book of this
type, usable by anyone owning a sewing machine, it is
necessary to write in general terms. If there is an exception,
and our suggestion to a particular problem does not seem to
work on your machine, please refer to your sewing ma
chine's operational manual - the manufacturer's instruction
manual does take precedence. If the problem you're having
is one of a broken part, worn gear that needs to be replaced,
etc., you must take the machine to an authorized service
center for repair.
 Fig. 102
GROOVED SIDE

f
FLAT SURFACED SIDE

The problems addressed throughout this book refer

to ones dealing with threads, tensions, fabric problems,
cleaning, etc., which covers over 75% of the problems any
seamstress/crafter or home sewer encounters.

I. Sewing machine skips stitches:

1) Needle inserted improperly.
A. The flat side of the needle must face the
shaft, (see figure 102)
B. The groove in the needle faces away from
the shaft; (this applies to needles that are
round, with no flat side (see figure 102).

Correct needle insertion is mandatory for the proper

use of your sewing machine. Raise the needle bar to the
highest point, then loosen the clamp screw to remove the old
needle. Place the new needle in the clamp with the flat side
of the needle facing the back (or if using a round needle, the
groove in the needle should face away from the shaft). Push
the needle all the way up to the stop, or as far as it will go,
then tighten the needle clamp screw (figure 103).

Fig. 103 Needle Bar Needle-Clamp Screw

Needle Clamp

Flat Side to Back

Changing Ihe Needle

NOTES 2. Possible bent needle - lay the needle on a flat
surface and roll the needle over. If the needle
does not roll true, then replace the needle.
3. Blunt needle point - if the needle make a
popping sound when the needle penetrates
the fabric, the needle point is blunt and needs
to be replaced.
4. Needle is not all the way up in holder - loosen
needle clamp screw and push the needle up
until it stops; tighten clamp screw.
5. Incorrect threading - check your instruction
manual for proper threading of your sewing
machine. It only takes one missed step in the
sequence of threading to cause your machine
to skip stitches.
6. Wrong needle for your machine - Check your
instruction manual for the proper needle for
the make and model number of your particular
machine. Some machines can use a generic
type needle with no problem; however, some
machines require the specific ones mentioned
in the instruction manual.
7. Size of needle and thread not compatible - In
some cases sewers get in too big a hurry to get
started on the sewing or craft project to take the
time to be sure they're using the correct needle
and thread for the type of fabric they'll be
using. By using the wrong type of needle for
the job, the end result is not what you want, and
perhaps will even cause stitching problems
throughout the project. A needle too fine for
heavy fabric can bend or break when it hits the
fabric, while too large a needle for the fabric
can make puncture holes in the fabric and also
cause the thread to pull unevenly while stitch
ing. The best practice is to check before
beginning a project to be sure you're using the
right fabric/lhread/needle combinations (refer
to chart in the back of this book).
6
II. Machine does not stitch properly: NOTES
1. The first things you will want to check are if
both the upper and lower tensions are adjusted
properly. Remove the bobbin case from the
shuttle, then remove the shuttle from the shuttle
carrier. Put the bobbin case and shuttle to
gether (figure #104). Hold the thread (figure
#104) and shake gently. If the bobbin case and
shuttle slide down the thread fast, then turn the
adjusting screw clockwise to tighten. If the
bobbin case and shuttle will not slide down the
thread at all you will need to loosen the adjust
ing screw counter-clockwise until the bobbin
and shuttle slide down a little, but stop when
you stop gently shaking the thread. This pro
cedure works on nearly every sewing
machine.

Fig. 104

Bobbin case

Shuttle

Now that you have the lower tension adjusted prop

erly, put the shuttle back into the shuttle carrier of the sewing
machine and put the bobbin case back into the shuttle. Once
you have adjusted your lower tension following the previ
ous instructions, some minor adjustment of your upper
tension may be necessary to obtain proper tension for your
sewing machine. You should now sew a little on some scrap
material to finalize your upper tension adjustment. Adjust
your upper tension until your thread ties as shown in Figure
105 sample "A" next page:
 UPPER
105-A CORRECT TENSION
NOTES

If your stitching looks like sample "B", the upper

tension is too tight, and if it looks like sample "C", the lower
tension is too tight We recommend that you use a different
color of thread on top than in the bobbin in order to readily
see how your stitching line looks on the fabric.

105-B UPPER TENSION TOO TIGHT

05-C LOWER TENSION TOO TIGHT

NOTE: In most cases you will not have to adjust your NOTES
lower tension. However, if you cannot get the upper tension
to adjust properly, then and only then do you adjust your
lower tension according to the instructions previously given.

NOTE: As you change to sewing on different weight

materials, test sew on a piece of scrap material of the same
weight before beginning the actual sewing project so that
you can adjust your upper tension to that particular material.
As an example, if you're changing from a denim type
material to a silky type material, you would definitely want
to make sure the tension is correct and the stitching looks
right before you actually start to sew on the garment.

To determine whether the upper tension is too tight or

too loose for the fabric you're wanting to use, try the
following test. Take a small scrap of the fabric, fold it, and
stitch a line on the bias of the fabric, using different colors
of thread in the bobbin and on top. Grasp the bias line of
stitching between the thumb and index finger. Space the
hands about 3 inches apart and pull with an even, quick force
until one thread breaks. If the broken thread is the color of
the thread in the needle, it means that the upper tension is too
tight. If the broken thread is the color of the bobbin thread,
the upper tension is too loose. If both threads break together
and take more force to break, it means that the tensions are
balanced (figure 106).

Fig. 106
NOTES 2. Stitches ragged - This problem most likely will
happen when two different sizes of thread are
being used. Use the same thread in the bobbin
as on the spool. Never mix different sizes of
thread. (The exception to this is if you're doing
sewing machine embroidery, where you might
be using a heavier thread on the top to get a
certain effect for the embroidery project)
3. Length of stitch erratic - This happens if the
feed dog is not at the right height Refer to your
sewing machine instruction manual for the
adjustment of your feed dog. Presser bar
adjustment might also need to be made. Check
your machine manual, but in most cases the
adjustment is a dial knob on top over the drop
lever that lets down the presser foot Other
types are press down adjustment knob, screw
down, or sometimes a dial knob inside the
sewing opening at the left end of the sewing
machine where your light bulb is. This presser
bar adjustment is very important when you
change from light weight material to a heavy
weight material. The presser bar adjustment
controls how fast or slow the feed dogs "walk"
your material through the sewing area.

The following diagrams show, first of all, how each

of the presser bar adjustments work, so that you will be able
to easily locate the type you have on your machine (figure
107). Secondly, figure 108 shows you what the pressure and
feed area on the machine looks like, and the various parts
that interact together.

10
 Fig. 108
Pressure
Regulator

Spring

Presser
foot lifter
Push (down)
bar

foot bar

\JuiJ 1/
A. The dial on the side of the machine will either
have numbers or words for the selection process. The words
are self-explanatory. If your machine has numbers, the
higher the number, the greater the pressure.

B. The dial on the top of the machine could also

have either numbers or words. If the settings are words, they
are usually "maximum", "minimum" or "darn".

C. The push bar regulator has a "lock-release"

collar around it. When the bar is pushed down to increase
the pressure, the collar locks the bar into place. When the
collar is pushed, the bar is released and the pressure is
decreased.

D. The screw type regulator is turned clockwise

to increase the pressure, and counterclockwise to decrease
the pressure.

Figure 108 shows how the pressure and feed interact

with each other to' produce an evenly stitched seam. Pres
sure is the downward force that is placed on the fabric by the
presser foot to hold the fabric layers taut in order that they
might move together during the stitching process. The
spring on the presser foot bar controls the amount of

ii
 NOTES pressure applied. The pressure is changed by the use of the
pressure regulator previously described and shown in figure
108. NOTE: The pressure on the presser foot can be
changed only when the presser foot is in the "down"
position.

Feed is the upward force that moves the fabric under

the presser foot. The "stitch length" knob controls the feed.
The shorter you have the stitch length set, the shorter is the
distance the feed moves the fabrics between each new stitch.
The longer the stitch length is, the greater is the distance
between each new stitch. The following diagrams (figure
109) show how the feed and pressure work together to make
the stitches.
Fig. 109
A

A. While the needle and thread penetrate the

fabric, both the feed and presser foot hold the fabric taut. As
the needle descends, the feed descends, leaving only the
presser foot in contact with the fabric.

B. As the needle is coming up out of the fabric, the

feed is moving forward. While this is happening, the presser
foot continues to be in contact with the fabric.

C. As the needle continues to move upward and to

bring the stitch with it, the feed is also moving up toward the
fabric. The presser foot continues to hold the fabric.

12
 D. As the stitch is being set into the fabric, the NOTES
feed comes up to help the presser foot keep the fabric taut
and then to advance the fabric one stitch length (the stitch
length being regulated by the "stitch length" knob).

NOTE: Never pull your material through the sewing

area! Let the feed dogs walk your material through -- that's
what they are there for!

4. Stitches loose - Loose stitches indicate a ten

sion problem. Go back to the instructions for
adjusting then tensions to correct this.
5. Thread loops on bottom - Looping thread
could be caused by two tilings - a blunt needle
or a tension problem. Check the needle first. If
it is even slightly rough and "blunt" at the tip,
change it. Don't wait for a needle to actually
break before changing it - many times stkch-
ing problems could be prevented altogether if
a proper sharp needle is used. If the needle is
okay, check the tension by using a scrap piece
of material of the same weight as the sewing
project, and refer back to the section on tension
adjustments.
6. Frayed stitches - Clean the machine of all lint
in the lower bobbin assembly area. Also re
move the feed dog (throat plate) in the needle
area by removing the screw and lifting the
plate off (figure 110) and brush out the lint.
7. Zig Zag stitches uneven - Check the tension to
correct this problem. Refer to the section on
tension adjustment, and again, by using two
different colors of thread you will be able to
see quickly the tension adjustment that needs
to be made. rl no

13
III. Sewing Machine breaks upper thread:

There are several possibilities why the machine breaks

the upper thread. Use the following check list to sec which
is the problem in your particular instance:

1. Needle in backwards - in many cases the sewer

either may not be aware that there is a right or
wrong way to insert the needle, or she may be
in a hurry and unknowingly put it in wrong. In
over 50% of my machine repair jobs the needle
is in backwards, so this is definitely something
you should be aware of and always put the
needle in correctly (refer to diagrams in
Section I).
2. The upper tension may be too tight - Refer to
the section on tensions to correct this.
3. The needle may be bent - Try rolling the needle
on a flat surface to see if it is bent or not. If
the needle is bad, change it.
4. The thread may be hanging up on the bobbin
case - check this area for lint or fragments of
old threads that need to be cleaned out.
5. Knotty or cheap thread is being used - Always
use a good quality thread for your sewing.
The pennies you save buying cheap thread
could cost you big dollars on your sewing
machine maintenance bill. Try holding a length
of the cheap thread up to a lighted window and
just look at all the fuzz on it. The fuzz causes
a weakening in the thread which will cause the
thread to break off when it goes through the
needle's eye and bobbin case and also lints up
your machine and causes your machine to clog
up and drag, which will end up costing you big
bucks from the maintenance person. Buy
good quality thread, test it, and look at the
difference between the two threads.

U
IV. Lower threw) breaks: NOTKS

1. The most probable cause of lower thread break

ing is an improperly wound bobbin. Refer to
your instruction book to see where to wind
your bobbin. It may be the type thaL rewinds
right in the machine, or maybe the winding
mechanism is on the top near the hand wheel
or on the front side near the hand wheel. Re
gardless of where you wind the bobbin, the
basic rules apply to every type:
A) Always start with an empty bobbin.
Never wind one color over another color.
B) Choose thread that is identical in color
and type as the one to be used for upper
threading.
Q Wind the bobbin evenly across and in
level layers (see figure 111), for the
right and wrong way to wind a bobbin.
D) Don't wind the bobbin so full that it
would be tight and hard to insert into the
bobbin case. Most machines have an
automatic "shut off when the bobbin
gets full, but if yours does not, be care
ful not to fill it too full.
Fig. 111
Kight

2. Bent bobbin - replace the bobbin and throw the

old one away.
3. Lint build-up in the bobbin case - frequent
cleanings will eliminate this problem. The
more you use the sewing machine, the more
often it needs to be cleaned.
4. Thread catching on a spring or latch on the
bobbin case - check to see that the bobbin is in
serted completely and correctly, and that you
are using the right kind of bobbin. Check your
NOTES owners manual for the type of bobbin you
should use. Be sure lo replace any bobbin that
is worn, nicked or cracked, as a damaged
bobbin can cause sewing problems. It is good
to have several extras on hand. The following
chart shows the various types of bobbins
(figure 112):

A) Most drop-in bobbins are made of plas

tic, but they can also be made of metal.
They are smooth surfaced and the sides
are usually rounder than other types of
bobbins.
B) Special drop-in bobbins are made for
those machines that have a re-wind
mechanism built into the machine, that
allows you to rewind the bobbin with
out taking it out. This type of bobbin is
made of clear plastic and the top half is
sometimes larger than the bottom half.
The top side also usually has circular
lines indicating fullness of the bobbin.
Q Removable case bobbins may be made
of plastic or metal. Their sides may be
smooth surfaced, but some of the metal
ones have several holes in each of the
sides.

16
NOTE: Not just sewing machine companies make NOTES
bobbins - you can get generic type bobbins especially for the
"removable case" bobbins and others as well, just make sure
they are the same type and look the same as the one pictured
in your owner's manual.

V. Machine breaks needles;

1. Make sure you are using the right needle for
your type of sewing machine. Most machines
can use the generic "Schmitz" needles; how
ever, there are cases where the machine will
only use the ones specified in the owner's
manual.
2. The presser foot may not be installed properly.
3. Use the correct needle for the type of fabric
you are working with; too fine a needle on
heavy fabric or too coarse a needle on silky or
jersey fabrics will cause problems. Refer to
ihe "fabric/needie/lhread" chart for assistance
here.
4. The operator of the sewing machine is pulling
the fabric through the presser foot. Let the feed
dogs guide the cloth through and under the
presser foot; this is their job!
5. The needle is not all the way in - make sure Ihe
needle is set all the way up against the stop
when you insert it.

VI. Machine will no! feed fabric through:

1. The stitch adjustment control is set at "0" -
adjust the stitch length to the proper "normal"
setting.
2. The presser foot thumb screw is not tight.
3. The feed dog adjustment is in the wrong posi
tion. Check to see that it is set to a raised
position and not dropped down to the

17
NOTKS "darning" position.
4. Presser bar not adjusted correctly - adjust as
needed. For thin material adjust to a little
pressure on the fool; heavy fabric (denim, etc.)
will need more pressure on the foot. Refer to
the section on presscr bar adjustments.

Ml. Machine doesn't run smoothly:

I. The moving parts may need oiling - the simple
way to know what to oil and where is "if it
moves, oil it". Check your operation manual
fora picture of the sewing machine and it
should tell you where the locations are that
need oil. (NOTE: Do not oil the electrical
wiring or motor! Some older model motors
have a location at each end for a drop of oil.
Again, check the operation manual of your
particular machine for specific oiling
information.)
2. Lint and thread may be clogging the shuttle
and hook assembly area (this is where your
bobbin is located). Also, lint and thread may
be jammed under the presser foot and feed dog
area. Remove the screw holding the plate
down and clean all of the lint and thread from
this area. If your machine is used a lot, this
cleaning should be done once a month: if it is
used only once a week, then every three months
should be often enough.
3. If you just cleaned the shuttle and bobbin area,
check that area again to see if you may have
mis-aligned something and it is binding, caus
ing your machine to run hard.
4. If you just replaced a motor belt, it may be too
tight - adjust the belt so it will press together
about half an inch or less (using the thumb ami

18
 index finger). Try running the machine again; NOIKS
adjust again until your machine stops running
hard. (CAUTION: If the motor belt is left too
light, it could burn out the motor, so it's better
to have it a little loose than to be too tight.)
5. If your motor belt is located inside the ma
chine, it is best to take it to a dealer or author
ized service repairman to replace it.

VIII. Machine does not run, but the motor runs:

1. The motor belt is probably broken. You can
replace the belt, but as previously mentioned,
if the motor belt is located inside the machine,
you should take it to an authorized service
center for repair.
2. The motor belt may be loose - adjust it so that
the belt is light, but not too tight.

VIV. Motor docs not run:

1. The electi'icai cord may be defective - replace
with a new electrical cord.
2. The electrical cord may have come unplugged
from the wall socket (don't laugh - this hap
pens more often than you might think!)
3. The motor may be burned out - smell the motor
to see if it smells like a pair of dirty smelly
socks. If the motor smells, it needs to be
replaced.
4. The foot control may be defective - if this is the
case, you need to lake it to un authorized
service repairman to be replaced. (NOTE: If
the foot control is partially burned out, the
control will run at high speed only. Again, this
problem needs to be taken care of by an author
ized repairman.)

19
CAUTION: I recommend lhat you make it a habit to turn off
the power and light switch before changing needles, presser
feet or throat plates and when leaving the machine unat
tended. This will eliminate the possibility of a child or
someone starting the sewing machine by accidentally press
ing the speed control fool.
 SHUTTLE SYSTEMS FOR SEWING MACHINES: NOTES

There are three basic sewing mechanisms in the

lockstitch category (Figure 113). The simplest type is the
"vibrator" (long shuttle) (A). These machines have a
vibrator mechanism and are relatively simple to operate.

There are many variations of the "oscillating hook"

mechanism (B). The Class 15 and Class 66 are the most
popular. Foreign manufacturer's prefer the Class 15. "Class"
refers to the type of shuttle used.

The third type of shuttle system is the "rotary" shuttle

(C). The rotary mechanism makes a complete revolution
instead of the oscillating type.
Figure 113
Shuttle Assembly: (A) Long Shuttle (B) Oscillator (C) Rotary.

shuttle
Shuttle
rotary
shuttle

long bobbin

round bobbin

rotary bobbin
i shuttle
carrier

bobbin case
bobbin

TIMING NEEDLE BAR TO SHUTTLE - CLASS 15:

The needle bar on the conventional Class 15 machine

is controlled by a connecting link, fixed to a stud that is
threaded into the main shaft cam. Figure 1 14 shows the
relation of the cam to the needle bar, and the parts which
NOT1SS must be removed to disassemble it. Screw 114A is access-
able through a hole cut in [he body under the machine arm.
To loosen screw 114A, turn it counter clockwise allowing
the needle bar to be removed, or timed, whichever is
necessary. The Class 15 Sewing machine can be timed at the
needle bar with a simple adjustment.

Turn the hand wheel until the take-up arm is at it's

highest point of travel. Move the hand wheel toward the
front of the machine until the set screw (114A) is visible
through the access hole.

Remove both screws, then remove the needle plate.

Loosen the set screw (114A). Lower the needle bar manu
ally while turning the hand wheel to the front of the machine
until the shuttle point aligns with the needle eye.

As the shuttle point comes close to the needle eye, set

the shuttle point about 3/32" above Ihe eye of the needle
(Figure 115).

Figure
Figure 115

( 1 14A)

22
 Tighten the set screw (114A), replace the needle NOTKS
plate, tighten both screws, and sew off on test material.

When you reset the timing on a sewing machine,

always replace the needle first before doing the test sewing.
The new needle will assure that you won't have a problem
with a slightly bent needle or one that is damaged.

When a sewing machine is properly timed, the shuttle

point will reach its intersect point just above the eye of the
needle, immediately after the needle reaches its lowest
point, hesitates, and starts its upward stroke.

Most late model Class 15 machines have a "timing

mark" on the needle bar. To time a machine with a timing
mark, remove the face plate, turn the hand wheel to the front
until the set screw (114A) is visible through the access hole
on the underside of the arm.

Loosen the screw and move the needle bar until the
timing mark is flush with the lower end of the needle bar
bushing. Tighten the set screw and replace the face plate.
CAUTION: When adjusting the needle bar, always hold the
needle bar in its place so it won't twist to one side. The
smallest turn will cause the machine to skip stitches.

If this timing process seems too difficult for you,

please have your local sewing machine repair technician
complete this task.

NOTE: Before setting about to time your machine,

check the needle clamp and stop screw. Sometimes the stop
screw will break off and when the needle is inserted in the
clamp and the needle will slide up too far, causing the
machine to skip stitches or will not pick up the lower thread
at all.

23
NOTES The Automatic Zig Zag machine started in the early
1950's. Elna was the first, then Pfaff, Nccchi and Viking.

We will cover a Pfaff model (230/360) just to show

how to time the zig zag machine.

Set the machine for the widest zig-zag stitch and put
the needle position lever in the center position. Remove itie
face and needle plates. Turn the hand wheel until the needle
is on its "down" stroke. Loosen screw "A" (Figure 116)
through the opening in the needle bar frame. Hold the
needle bar firmly so the needle bar does not turn. Adjust the
needle to the correct height - the point o( the shuttle hook
should be .02" above the lop of the needle eye. Position the
needle bar and tighten the set screw (A).

Figure 116

NOTE: Most sewing machines are timed generally

the same - adjust the needle bar with the needle in place to
the point of the shuttle that catches the upper thread and
pulls the upper thread down and around the shuttle, which
then picks up the lower thread, giving you the lock stitch
effect.

It would be impossible to cover each of the hundreds

and hundreds of different models that the various manufac
turers throughout the world make. However, if you just
understand the above procedures in general, then all you
need to do to time any sewing machine is locate the screw

24
that holds the needle bar secure, then loosen it and adjust the NOTES
needle bar so the shuttle point picks up the upper thread from
the needle eye as it starts its upward movement. You may
have to adjust the needle bar on a trial and error basis to get
your type of machine timed, but in many cases so do the
sewing machine service technicians.

SEWING MACHINE TENSIONS

TENSION ASSEMBLY Example I - Thread Tension

Unit

As a general rule most tension assemblies are nearly

the same. The most important task when removing your
tension unit from the machine is to MAKE SURD you lay
out each part as you remove it from the shaft! In other
words, make sure you know how it comes apart so lhat you
can reassemble it in the same order as it came apart. If you
place one part in the wrong position, your tension will not
work properly when you reinstall it in the machine!

In the NOTES section of your book write down all the

date pertaining to your machine. For example, write down
how the tension assembly came apart noting each piece as
it comes oft" the machine. If somehow your tension parts get
mixed up, or if you have to stop in the middle of the job and
someone comes by and gets the parts out of order, etc.,
without the detailed notes on disassembling the tension, it
would be impossible to get it back together right Figure 117
is an example of a thread tension unit, as it comes off the
machine. Figure 1 1 7 Indicator Stop

Releasing Pin
Thread Guard Spring \

Stud
Cup \ iio

Dial

25
NOTES Some foreign manufactured machines have tension
units that are different than the American made machines.

REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY

Open the face plate, loosen the stud screw and re

move the entire tension assembly as illustrated in Figure
117. Loosen the set screw in the dial and remove the dial.
Turn the adaptor to the left until it is free from lite stud.
Remove the indicator stop, spring, cup, and tension releas
ing pin. The check spring, tension discs, and thread guard
should be removed from the stud as a unit (Figure 118).

Figure 118

Vr5 v/ chock Spring

Tail of
Hi.* lea a i mj Spring Thread
Pin \ Guard

/ Check T^J
Stud Spring -—~4-s?

26
REASSEMBLY AND RElMJtCEMENTOFTENSION NOTES

Replace the releasing pin in the stud. Place tension

discs on the thread guard, aligning the coil of the check
spring with the holes in the tension discs and thread guard
and place the assembly on the stud with the tail of the check
spring entering the top groove of the sprocket on the stud.
Replace cup spring, indicator stop and adaptor. Replace
dial, making sure that the stop on the inside of the dial is in
contact with Lhe left side of the indicator stop tab when the
dial is set at zero "0" tension. Tighten the set screw and
insert the entire assembly into the machine, making sure the
check spring is resting on die top surface of die check spring
stop (Figure 118).

TENSION ASSEMBLY Example 11 - Graduated

Tension

1. Loosen the set screw (Figure 119) and remove

the tension assembly from the machine.

Figure 119

2. Turn the tension adjusting nut (Figure 120

"B") until zero on the tension index flange
(Figure 120 "D") is opposite the pointer on the
tension indicator (Figure 120 "G").

Figure 120
NOTES 3. Next press in the index flange (Figure 120
"D") lo disengage the pin (Figure 120 "C") in the tension
adjusting nut (Figure 120 "13") from the flange, and remove
the tension adjusting nut and flange, the flange slop, motion
washer (Figure 121 "E"), tension spring (Figure 121 "F),
indicator (Figure 121 "G")« tension releasing pin (Figure
121 "J") and the tension disc assembly (Figure 121 "H")
which includes the thread take-up spring, thread take-up
spring thread guard and two discs.

NQ1E: Always lay out the parts as you remove them,

in the order that they come off the stud to make easier
reassembling.

TO REASSEMBLE HIE TENSION UNIT

1. Put the two tension discs (Figure 122 "L") with

the convex sides facing each other. Place in position on the
thread take-up spring thread guard (Figure 122 "M"). Pass
the eye of the thread take-up spring (Figure 122 "N") under
the thread guard (Figure 122 "M"), making sure that the
coils of the spring are above the tension discs.

Figure 122

2. Put the threaded end of the tension stud (Figure

123 "O") through the coils of the take-up spring (Figure 123

28
"P") (hen through (he holes in (he (wo tension discs (Figure NOTES
123 "L") and thread guard (Figure 123 "M") and through the
eye of Ihe take-up spring, letting the end of the take-up
spring enter one of the grooves in the stud (Figure 123 "Q").

3. Next place the tension releasing pin (Figure 123 "J")

in the tension stud.
Figure 1 23
o

I
Q

4. Hold the parts already assembled against the

shoulder of the stud and put the tension indicator (Figure
324 "G") on Ihe stud. Now insert the tension spring (Figure
124 "F") in the indicator with the first half-turn of the spring
below the stud or away from the pointer of the indicator
(Figure 124). Figure 124

5. Now put the index flange stop washer (Figure

124 "E") on the stud with its extension toward the indicator
pointer. If the spring and stop washer are in the correct
position, the extension (Figure 125 "S") will clear the first
coil of the spring.

Figure 125

29
NOTES 6. Put Ihe tension index flange (Figure 124 "D")
on the stud, placing it so the number I is opposite the pointer
on the tension indicator (Figure 124 "G"), pressing ft inward
until the tension adjusting nut (Figure 124 "B") can be
turned onto the stud.

7. Now insert the pin (Figure 124 "C") into dif

ferent holes in the flange until you find one which permits
the full range of tension from light tension to tight tension
to be produced with one revolution of the tension adjusting
nut.

8. Lower the presser bar to eliminate the pressure

on the tension releasing pin (Figure 124 "J").

9. Put the complete tension assembly back into

the machine, having the long lug (Figure 123 "K") enter the
hole (Figure 126 "U"), with the pointer (Figure 124 "G") at
the top, and the thread take-up spring resting on the slack
thread regulator (Figure 126 "V").

Figure 126

10. Push the complete tension unit in as far as it

will go, then tighten the set screw (Figure 126 "A").

11. The tension of the thread take-up spring (Fig

ure 124 T) should be just taut enough to take up the slack
of the needle thread as the eye of the needle penetrates the
fabric in its downward motion. A slight adjustment in the
tension on the take-up spring may be made by loosening the
tension set screw (Figure 124 "A") and turning the tension

30
stud, wilh the indicator (Figure 124 "G") to the left for more
tension, or to the right for less tension.

If the correct tension cannot be obtained without

turning the indicator pointer (Figure 124 "G") to a position
that you cannot read, remove the assembly from the ma
chine then remove the end of the thread take-up spring
fromthe groove (Figure 123 "Q") in the tension slud. Turn
the spring and place its end in the groove in which it
produces the correct tension.

The tension on the needle thread is obtained by

turning the tension adjusting nut (Figure 124 "B"). If the
right tension cannot be obtained by this method, adjust the
tension as follows:

1. Press in the tension index flange (Figure 124

"D") to disengage the pin (Figure 124 "C") in
the tension adjusting nut (Figure 124 "B")
from the flange.
2. Reset the pin in one of the other holes in the
flange.
3. Turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise to
increase the tension.
4. Turn the tension adjusting nut counter-clock
wise to decrease the tension.

TENSION ASSEMB1Y Example III

The tension assembly works for two different tension

jobs:
1. Pre-tension of approximately 10 grams for
rewinding your bobbins, and
2. Your sewing tension adjusts from "0" to
approximately 500 grams, so that you can
manually adjust, with your tension dial
setting, from "0"-"9".

31
NOTES Before you make any adjustments to your tension
unit, he sure the pressure on the pull-pin in the tension
assembly is released when the tension dial is set at "0" or
when the presser bar is in the up or raised position.

When your presser bar is in the raised position or your

tension dial is set at "0", the pre-tension applies approxi
mately 10 grams of drag on the needle thread. When you
wind a bobbin and the thread is very loosely wound and
loops of thread show around the bobbin, it is an indicatorion
that your prc-tension adjustment is not corrcet. Too much
pre-tension ean and will cause your thread to break when
winding a bobbin.

ADJUSTMENTSTO11IE TENSION ASSEMBIY

mm®
Figure 127

E F G
- .uzir

B
1

1 !

Figure 128
 1. Remove face plate and the top cover.

2. Remove the thread guard screw "A"; swing

out and remove thread guard "B".

3. Remove set screw "C".

4. Remove outer nut "D".

5. Remove inner nut "E". NOTE: Be very

careful when removing this inner nut "E". If you do not have
a reversible pliers set, you can use the handle end of a small
screw driver that has a rubber covering on the handle. Be
sure thai you do not use a metal tool on the inner nut as you
may damage it.

6. Remove the slotted friction washer "F".

7. Adjust ihe pre-tension adjusting nut "G" clock

wise to increase the drag and counter clockwise to decrease
the drag on your tension.

8. Check the tension by pulling thread through

the tension discs for a slight drag.

9. Replace the slotted friction washer "F" and

inner nut "E".

JO. Thread the outer nut "D" and check for dis
tance between the center disc "1" and the left tension disc
"H". This clearance should be approximately .020 inches.

11. Reinstall hex socket set screw "C" in the outer

nut"D".

12. NOTE; If you still have problems with your

tension adjustments, contact your local service technician
for more in-depth repairs.

33
 ■ -..-- I

NOTES CLEANING,OILING AND LUBRICATION OFYOUK

MACHINE

I cannot stress the fact often enough that you need to

keep your machine clean, oiled and lubricated. If you have
a problem with your thread breaking or your thread loose
(looping ii]) under your fabric) or stitches too light, etc., the
very first step to take is vo clean all lint, broken thread, etc.
from the machine.

Cleaning

1. Clean the lint and broken strands of thread

from between the tension discs (Figure 129).

Figure 129
Oil
Oil Behind
Face Plate Oil

Tension Discs

Oil

2. Clean the lint and broken strands of thread

from around the feed dog area (Figure 130).

Figure 130

Brush

Oil

34
 3. Clean the Jint and broken pieces of thread from NOTES
around the shuttle and bobbin area ( Figure 130).

All of the above three problem areas can and will

cause tension changes which directly affect your thread's
running smoothly throughout these areas.

OILING AND GREASING THE MACHINE

A general rule of thumb to remember is "if it moves,

oil k". (Only a drop will do\) Do not over oil your sewing
machine - just oil it a little more often.

1. Remove the two screws holding the top cover

down, exposing the moving parts. Put a drop of oil on each
area that moves (Figure 131).
figure 131 011
Gear Lubricant
Oil

_ i
XT)
=TBt

2. Grease all the gears with a light weight grease,

and again, only a dab will suffice (Figure 131).

Lift the machine up to expose the bottom of the

machine. All sewing machines are generally built the same.
Some parts are in different places and were designed a little
differently by the various manufacturers, but overall the
same principles apply to all of them.

I. As you did for the top part of the machine, turn

the hand wheel to note all the moving parts on the under
neath part of the machine. Where two parts are joined

35
together, there will be a bushing joining them together.
Sometimes (here will be a small hole where you can apply
a drop of oil. If there is not a small hole, just oil the joint
(Figure 132). Remember never oil the motors or bells!

Figure 132

Oil Oil Oil

It is a good idea to make a cleaning and oiling

schedule for your sewing machine, just like mechanics do
for oil changes and tune ups for automobiles. Depending on
the amount of sewing you do, you should mark on your
calendar to do the regular cleaning and oiling every 3
months or every 6 months. This regular maintenance
schedule will keep your machine running smoothly, in
addition Lo keeping it out of the repair shop!

36
 NOTES
SPECIFIC SEWING MACHINE TIMING

,015 -.040
0.4mm - 1.0mm

GENERAL NOTE
Almost all machines are limed using the shuttle
hook point and the needle (see figure S-Xl Item A). All
measurements are approximate. YOU have to make sure
your sewing machine shuttle hook poini enters the loop
made by the upper thread during the straight stitching
mode and also during the widest zigzag mode. If, during
any of the above stitching modes, the hook doesn't enter
the thread loop made by the upper thread, then you may
have to change the distance between the needle eye and
where the hook point centers the needle (up or down).
Example, the distance may have to be adjusted to 0.6 or
0.8 mm's, according to how the manufacturer engineered
the machine. This timing fact applies regardless of
whether your machine has a vertical or horizontal shuttle
hook system.

37
 TIMING THESHUTTLE HOOK
NOTES TO THE NEEDLE BAR

Bach manufacturer has engineered their sewing

machines differently according to their particular
standards. Therefore the adjustment and methods of
accomplishing the same task of timing the needle bar
(needle) to the shuttle hook will be different, depending on
whether your machine has gears, bells or other methods of
adjustment. We will ivy to explain in detail the different
methods used. If your machine configuration doesn't fit
any of ihe following examples, study the examples
carefully, and using your sewing and mechanical ability,
you'll be able to figure out which is closest to yours.

Keep tlits fact in mind - as the needle starts the

UPWARD movement from the LOWEST point of its
stroke, the needle thread forms a loop (see Figure P-l). U
is at this time that the shuttle hoop point has to enter the
loop, which takes it around the bobbin case, forming the
lock stitch of the lower and upper threads.

(P-l)

38
 EXAMPLE ONE: P-260/P-360 MACHINES NOTI5S

Fig. P-2

To adjust the first step should be to turn the

liandwhee! forward (counter clock-wise) towards you until
the shultle hook is at the center of the needle (Fig. P-2) and
the needle MUST be on its' upward movement. If the
needle doesn't come all the way down to the shuttle hook
and starts its' upward movement before the shuttle hook
gets to its' top dead center point, you may have pushed the
needle bar up during a sewing project by hitting a button,
zipper, etc., therefore knocking your machine out of time,
'['his is the easiest type of liming to correct.

Loosen either one or two set screws, that secure

your needle bar, MOLDING your needle bar in its present
NOTES position (axis). Let your needle bar down to a point where
the shuttle hook is approximately .02/.05 mm or 3/32"
above the eye of"the needle. I3y HANI) turn your machine
in the forward motion (after threading your machine) just
to be sure the shuttle hook picks up the thread and takes it
around the shuttle case. Be sure to tighten the set screws
securely so this will not happen again.

TIMING THE SHUTTLE HOOK TO THE NEEDLE

Some models can only be timed by adjusting the

lower driving bell sprocket on its shaft (see Fig P-3 &
P-4)

Fig. P-3

40
Fig. 4
NOTES

Remove side panel on hand wheel side. Two set

screws on the lower drive belt gear can be reached from
this position. You may have to remove the switch box to
get a clear shot at the drive belt gear. Alter gaining access
to the gear, loosen the two screws on the drive belt gear.
NOT!:: Make sure the needle is on its upward movement
(no more than 2.0 mm on its upward stroke). Turn the
shuttle hook until the point of the hook has reached the
center of the needle (see Fig. P-2). At this time make sure
the needle and shuttle t\o not move - lighten the two set
screws securely.

41
NOTES ADJUSTING NEEDLE TO THE SHUTTLE HOOK

EXAMPLE TWO/A:
NECCHI STRAIGHT STITCH MACHINES

(A) Rotate hand wheel toward you (by hand) as if

you were sewing (NOTE: make sure your machine is
unplugged from the electrical outlet), and center the shuttle
hook behind Ihe needle (see Tig. N-l).

Fig.N-J

The point or the shuttle hook should be

approximately 2mm or 3/32" above the needle's eye. To
adjust (he needle bar up or down to insure the correct
distance above the needle's eye (Fig. N-2) loosen the set
screw that holds the needle bar secure and adjust the
needle bar to the above measurements. NOTE: Make sure
the needle position doesn't rotate during this procedure,
because the shuttle hook will not be able to enter the
thread loop (see Tig. N-3-A&B).

42
Fig. N-2 NOTKS

Fig.N-3(A&B)
 CLEARANCE BETWEEN NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE
NOTES
HOOK

The needle should be as close as possible to the

shuttle hook point, but MUST NOT touch each other (Fig.
N-4). The distance should be no more than 0.1 mm as
shown.

Fig. N-4

To adjust (he shuttle in or out to get the desired

results, loosen screw "A" (sec Figure N-5) just a little,
making sure shuttle doesn't tuna on its axis, then lap lightly
in or out at point "13" with a brass punch.

Fig. N-5

44
 NOTE: Performing this adjustment may alter the NOTES
timing of your needle and shuttle hook (if shuttle rotates
leit or right). Check the timing adjustment (I7ig. N-2) and
adjust if required by rotating the shuttle hook (Fig, N-5).
Loosen screw "A" slightly and rotate shuttle hook to
obtain the desired results (Fig. N-2).

SHUTTLE HOOK IN SHUTTLE CARKIEK

ADJUSTMENT

Fig. N-6

If you're having problems with your thread breaking

or hanging up in the bobbin area and you've checked all
other areas, you may have to make an adjustment within
the shuttle hook/shuttle carrier mechanism.

The shuttle area is one of the most important areas

of your machine. This area MUST be free of lint and dirt.
All surfaces must be perfectly smooth, any rust, nicks,
rough spots, etc., MUST be removed with a jewelers file
and/or emery cloth.
 The shuttle hook (opposite end of the hook POINT)
NOTES and the shuttle carrier spring must measure 0.4 mm
(l/32")(I''ig. N-6). If this space is larger than these
measurements you will have an excess of noisy clattering.
If the space is too small, your thread will hang up and
break or jam around the bobbin case.' This distance is
factored in at the factory and cannot be adjusted except by
lighlly bending the shuttle carrier (spring tip area), using a
brass punch and tapping lightly with a hammer. NOTE:
This should be done by an experienced technician.

THE PRESSER BAR AND ITS PURPOSE

The main purpose of the presser bar is to apply

different amounts of pressure on fabric from heavy
material to lightweight material. If you are having
problems maintaining a good straight uniform stitch, it
could be the amount of pressure that is being applied by
your presser bar. In general, the heavier the material the
more pressure you will need to let the ^t^\ dog walk your
fabric through smoothly. The thinner or lighter the
material, the less pressure you need. If the pressure is too
much and you are using light weight and/or silky type
material, it could cause Ihc feed dog to damage your
material and/or cause your stitches not to be uniform.

To adjust the pressure on the presser bar, and in

turn, the fool, locate the thumb screw at the top of the
machine (Fig. N-7).
Fig. N-7
Lll , - B
 By rotating the thumb screw clockwise (CW), you
NOTES
will increase the pressure, a counter clockwise (CCW) turn
will decrease the pressure.

The correct height of the presser foot from the

needle plate is 7mm (Fig. N-7 //15). To adjust this
clearance, loosen screw (A) and adjust the presser bar
through the guide (13) (Fig. N-7 //14). Secure screw (A)
firmly when the correct adjustment is obtained.

The distance between the presser bar lifting arm and

the presser bar guide should be 0.5mm (Fig. N-7 U\3).
NOTE: Be sure the needle bar does not rotate left or right
during the adjustment process. The needle must be center
of the presser foot and needle plate hole, [f this is not
centered re-adjust to the center of both needle foot and
needle plate hole.

DOG ADJUSTMENTS-
STRAIGHT STITCH MACHINE

The presser foot must sit flat or level with the iced
dog teeth surface. If this is not the case with your
machine, your fabric will not ih&d properly under the
presser foot. Also the feed dog must have equal clearance
on both sides of the feed dog and needle plate. Slowly
rotate the hand wheel in a counter clockwise (CCW)
direction (toward you), and check the clearance of the feed
dog and needle plate slot. (Fig. N-8).

Fig. N-8
1
I t

1i
47
 Next, check to sec if the feed dog and the presser
NOTES
foot are level with each oilier. Raise the foot and place a
piece of thin paper on each of the four corners of the feed
dog (one corner at a lime). Lei the foot clown and see if
the paper pulls out equally on each corner. If not, one of
two tilings must be wrong. First, the presser foot may be
defective and needs to be replaced. Secondly, the feed dog
may be worn out and needs to be replaced.

ADJUSTING THE FEED DOG LEVEL AND

EXCESSIVE CLEARANCES

Fig N-9

The i"cQd dog must be parallel lo the needle plate slot

(Fig N-8). Most often you can make any adjustments
needed by loosening two screws (Fig. N-9 Item A) and
adjust, accordingly. After you have made the adjustments
securely tighten the screws again. If this doesn't correct
your clearances, then, with the stitch lever or knob set for
its longest stitch (Fig. N-10 Item A) the distance at (he
beginning travel of the feed dog above the needle plate
should be 0.4mm.
Fig.N-10 NOTES

O.H

. N^TAMsisT+^sM-Vs

0.4

-4 0.1
• —■—J
T

To adjust the clearance, loosen screw (C) (Fig. N-9),

turn the shaft (B/D) slowly to obtain the desired clearance.
Securely tighten screw (C).

The feed dog teeth projection above the needle plate

should be 0.8mm (Fig. N-10 Hem C). Rotate the
handwheel in a counter clockwise (CCW) direction until
the teed dog is at its highest position. Check the distance
and adjust if required. Loosen screw (E) (Fig. N-9) and
turn shaft (F) as necessary to obtain the proper clearance.
Securely tighten screw (E).

Almost all the instructions given on the straight

stitch machine example above will generally apply to the
zigzag sewing machines also. The following exceptions
are noted.

NEEDLE/SHUTTLE CLEARANCE - ZIGZAG

The only variation from the straight stitch sewing

machine and the zigzag machine in timing the needle and
shuttle is the securing screw position (Fig. N-l 1 Item A).
Go back to the beginning of example #2 and follow those
instructions to adjust the needle/shuttle timing.

49
 Fig. N-11
NOTES

FREE-ARM SEWING MACHINES

Exceptions from the straight stitch machine to the

free arm machines are noted in Fig. N-12.

Fig. N-12

A small clamp "B" is secured onto shaft "A" (Tig.

N-12) on the shuttle carrier. Pins "C" and "D" are secured
to this small block with two screws. Pin "C" connects rod
"E" which controls the axial run of the shuttle carrier when

50
sewing in the zig zag mode. The bottom pin "D" carries
roller "F" while sliding inside fork "G", will not allow the
shuttle carrier to turn around its axis.

ADJUSTING NEEDLE TO SHUTTLE CLEARANCE

Loosen clamp screw "H" (Pig. N-12) just enough to

move as close as possible but not touching. Secure screw
"H" firmly.

51
 MACHINES WITH SLANTING SHUTTLE
NOTES
ROTARY HOOK

EXAMPLE THREE:

SHUTTLE HOOK AND NEEDLE TIMING

Place your sewing machine in the straight stitch

sewing position.

Turn the hand wheel by hand counter-clockwise

until the needle is at its lowest point. Gently move the
hand wheel backward and forward to insure you have the
boUovn dead center. As the needle starts its upward
movement, no move than 2.5 mm, the shuttle hook point
should be in the center of the needle. (Fig. N-13)

Fig. N-13

The required adjustments will be as follows. Loosen

screw "B" of gear "C" (be sure to keep the hand wheel
motionless). Rotate the shuttle hook until the shuttle point
is centered on the needle (Fig. N-13, Item A). Tighten
screw "B" securely.

52
 Adjust the zigzag width control to its maximum NOTES
position. Turn the handwheel counter clockwise (CCW)
by hand, then place the needle position lever to the left
position (L/M/R). Lower the needle to its lowest position.
When the needle starts its upward movement, the shuttle
point should be centered on the needle. The shuttle hook
point should center the needle approximately 0.4/6 mm
above the needle eye. It" you need to adjust the shuttle
hook point (Fig. N-14), loosen screw "A" and adjust the
needle bar up or down. Secure screw "A" tightly before
proceeding.

Fig. N-14

53
 Test the machine's ability to pick up thread by
NOTES
threading the machine and turning the hand wheel by hand
(CCW) to insure the shuttle hook point enters the thread
loop. Now move the needle back to the middle position
(L/M/K) and try sewing normally. If any further
adjustments need to be made to fine tune the machine, go
back to the beginning and make further adjustments as
needed, following the guidelines already given.

54
 MACHINES WITH GEARS NOTES

EXAMPLE FOUR:

TIMING THE SHUTTLE HOOK AND ADJUSTING

THE NEEDLE BAR TO CORRECT HEIGHT.

The needle bar height should be adjusted as follows.

Rotate the hand wheel (CCW) toward you until the needle
is aV its dead bottom position. The shuttle hook point
should be centered behind the needle. The position of the
needle should be around .004" from the hook point and the
shuttle should be approximately 0.1mm above the needle
eye (Fig. S-l). NOTE: If (he needle doesn't come all the
way down to the shuttle hook point, you've probably hit a
zipper, button, straight pin, etc. while sewing which
pushed the needle bar up, causing your machine to be
knocked out of time.

HOOK
Fig. S-l POINT

NEEDLE
004 INCH

Place ihe machine in the straight Sliieh position.

The upper timing mark on the needle bar will be aligned
NOTES with the bottom edge of the needle bar bushing. With the
needle at its BDC position, loosen the needle bar clamping
screw then raise or lower the needle bar as needed. Be
sure the needle bar doesn't rotate during the task. Tighten
the needle bar screw tightly (Fig. S-2).

Fig. S-2

DRIVING ARM
ECCENTRIC
HINGE PIN CLAMPING
SCREW

VIBRATING
CLAMPING
BRACKET
SCREWS

COLLAR SET
SCREW

NEEDLE BAR
CLAMPING SCREW

UPPER TIMING
MARK
TIMING THE SHUTTLE HOOK
NOTES

Perform the previous (ask first (needle height)

Install a new needle, remove the throat plate, bed slide reel
cover and bottom cover plate. Remove the feed dog so (he
point of the shuttle hook can be seen. (Do this only if you
cannot see the shuttle hook point).

Place the needle in the straight stitch position.

Rotate the hand wheel counter clockwise (CCW) toward
you until the timing mark on the needle bar is at the
bottom of the needle bar bushing. The needle bar should
be just starting on its upward movement, with the needle
bar at its timing mark as staled above. The shuttle hook
point should be in the center of the needle (Fig. S-3).
NOTE: The distance should be approximately 0.4mm
above the needle eye in order for the hook point to enter
the thread loop created by the upper thread as it starts its
upward movement.

Fig. S-3
HOOK POINT
ALIGNED WITH
NEEDLE

57
NOTES
If the hook doesn't center the needle, loosen the two
set screws in the horizontal bevel gear (Fig. S-4)

Fig. S-4

VERTICAL BEVEL SET SCREWS HORIZONTAL BEVEL

GEAR CEAR

GEAR HUB SHOULD

HOT CONTACT FACE
OF BUSHING

DO NOT let the needle bar move while loosening

the set screws. Rotate the vertical bevel gear until the
shuttle hook point is centered behind the needle. Secure
tightly the two screws on the horizontal beve! gear. At this
point make sure both gears are meshed correctly without
binding and the gear base is not touching the bushing face.

58
 NOTES
MACHINES WITH BELT DRIVE ASSEMBLY

EXAMPLE FIVE:

TIMING THE SHUTTLE HOOK TO THE NEEDLE

Place the needle in the center position. Place stitch

width to "O" position. Install a new needle, size 18.
Rotate handwheel counter clockwise (CCW) toward you
until the lower liming mark is aligned on needle bars'
upward movement (Fig. S-5).

Fig. S-5
Lower
T iming
Mark

At this point the shuttle hook point should be at the

middle of the needle approximately 0.4 mm above the
needle eye. Be sure the timing mark doesn't move during
this task.
 Fig. S-6
NOTES

Loosen (he two set screws (Fig. S-6). Rotate the

shuttle hook point until the point of the shuttle hook is
centered behind the needle. Press down on the shuttle as
you tighten the two set screws tightly. Check the shuttle
hook for binding. The shuttle should run smoothly with no
vertical movement. Replace all parts removed while
performing this task.

Test sew on a fabric scrap to see that the machine is

running smoothly and properly.

60
TIMING THE NEEDLE BAR TO SHUTTLE HOOK NOTES

Fig. V-3

Timing the hook

The hook point

at *rf neudle

Selling the needle bar height

 Set the sewing machine for straight stitch sewing.
NOTES
Turn the hand wheel until the needle bottoms out and starts
its upward movement. The shuttle hook should be
centered above the eye of the needle (approximately .059")
(Fig. V-3).

Loosen the needle bar set screw (the screw that

secures the needle bar). Secure needle bar firmly so it
doesn't rotate while you adjust up or down to obtain the
proper clearance between the eye of the needle and the
shuttle hook point. Tighten the set screw.

Test sew on a fabric scrap to make sure the machine

is sewing smoothly.

The following "Model Number" chart applies to the

machines throughout the next section. Compare your
model number to those in the chart to see if it applies to
the writings in the "Example Seven" Bro. section.

MODEL NUMBERS
GROUP A GROUP B GROUPC GROUPD groupj: GROUP F GROUP G
M451 X1/791 M461.471 XX70Q XL703 M875 M401 M601
M791 M761.771
M751 M803 XL711 M865 M795
B606,6O7
B8O1 B803 B701.704 B604 B703 B875 B401 B601
 ADJUSTING NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT
NOTES

EXAMPLE SEVEN:

BRO-M-1:

Fig. B-l

®'
i

01 r 0
V \J
Group A.B.C.G. Gioup E
0.4 — I. Omm
GioapD.F.

Adjust the pattern selector knob to M (on model

XL7O3, turn to No. 1).

Set zigzag width to "5". Place the needle (L/M/R) to

the RIGHT position. (Free arm machines place ihe needle
to the LEFT side. Turn the handwheel by hand to position
the needle to the left or right, depending on which type
machine you have.

Loosen the set screw on the needle bar (see item 2

on Fig. B-l). Adjust the needle bar up or down so the
distance between the top of the needle eye and the shuttle

65
NOTES tip is from 0.5 to 1.0mm above the needle eye ((tern 3 Pig.
B-l).

Secure the needle bar set screw (Item 2) firmly.

Rotate (he hand wheel toward you counter clockwise
(CCW) by hand to verify that the shuttle hook tip enters
the thread loop made by the upper thread when it descends
into the shuttle area. Further adjustments may need to be
made following the above instructions. NOTE: Before
starting this task, install a new needle and insure the needle
is all (he way up in the needle clamp and seated firmly
against the needle stop pin.

SHUTTLE HOOK POINT CLEARANCE -

ALL TRANSVERSE RACE MODELS

Adjust the zigzag width icver to "()" and the needle

position to »M" (item l Fig. B-2).

66
 Loosen the two screws holding the gear box cover
NOTES
exposing the race way (Item 2 Fig. B-2). Slightly loosen
the two screws on the shuttle drive shaft bevel gear (Item 3
Fig. B-2).

Adjust the shuttle race (0.01 to 0.16mm) between

the needle and shuttle hook point (Item 4 Fig. B-2). Insure
the needle doesn't hit the shuttle point.

Adjust the raceway so the notch of the raceway

comes (o the center of the needle (Item 5 Fig. B-2).

TIMING SHUTTLE HOOK TO NEEDLE -

ALL TRANSVERSE RACE MODELS AND
FREE ARM MODELS

BRO-M Step A
Fig. B-3 A/B

I 4 — 1.8mm : l.iiiu
-2 3mm : Oiuup I) I-

67
NOTES Adjust the zigzag width lever to "5" (Item 1 Fig.
B-3), and move the needle to the far left side of the needle
slot (Item 3 Fig. B-3A)

Loosen the screw in the lower shaft crank just

enough to adjust (Kern 2 Fig. B-3A)

Rotate the handwheel toward you (counter clock

wise) and bring the needle to its lowest level. Adjust the
needle bar raise so the shuttle hook point intersects with
(he needle when it is on its upward movement. Adjust
the raise to 1.7 to 2.1 mm (Item 3 Fig. B-3A). Make this
adjustment by turning the handwheel counter clockwise
(towards you) while holding the shuttle hook in place.
Secure the set screw firmly (Item 2 Fig. B-3A).

BRO-M Step B

Adjust the zigzag width to "5" (Hem 1 Fig. B-3A).

(For Model XL703, adjust pattern indicator at cam #1 and
put the needle in the for right position in the needle plate
slot (Item 4 Fig. B-3B)

Slightly loosen the rotary hook screw (Item 3 Fig

B-3B). Adjust the shuttle hook so the distance between
the hook point and needle is set at 0.01 to 0.16 mm, by
moving it back and forth (Item 4 Fig. B-3B).

C>8
HEIGHT OK PKKSSEK BAR - ALL MODELS NOTES

Fig. U-4

Adjust the presser bar lever to the up position (Item

1, Fig. B-4) Slightly loosen the presser bar set screw (Item
2 Fig. B-4) just enough so you can move the bar up or
down. NOTE: Hold the bar firmly; do not let the bar twist
left or right. The foot must be parallel or in alignment with
the feed dog.

Measure the distance between the bottom of the

presser foot and the needle plate surface (Item 3 Fig. B-4).
The clearance should be 6.0 to 6.5 mm. Adjust this
measurement accordingly.

Secure the set screw (Item 2 Fig B-4) firmly.

During this check, be sure the presser foot is installed
correctly - all the way up before tightening the thumb
screw that holds the presser foot in place. CAUTION: If

69
 i
your machine has a thread cutter on the presser bar, be
NOTES careful that you don't slip and cut yourself during the
adjustment of the needle bar.

ADJUSTMENT OF FEED CAM - ALL MODELS

Fig. B-5

The top cover must be removed to expose the feed

cam in order to loosen the set screw (Item 1 Fig. B-5).
Adjusl the feed cam so the two marks on (he {ttf\ cam and
upper shall align as per Item 2 Fig. B-5. Secure the set
screw firmly.

70
 ADJUSTMENT OF THE VERTICAL FEED CAM - NOTES
ALL TRANSVERSE RACE MODELS AND
GROUP"D"

Fig. B-6 A/B

A

s,

Remove the bottom plate to expose the vertical (c

cam, if your machine has a bottom plate. Loosen Ihe
vertical feed cam set screws (2) just enough so the cam
will move (Hem 1 Fig B-6A).

Rotate the handwheel toward you (counter clock

wise) and bring the crank rod to its lowest level (Item 2
Fig. B-6A).

Adjust the vertical feed cam so the distance between

the feed cam and the shaft bushing is less than 0.3 mm -
insure that screw "A" and "C" are in alignment with each
other - in a straight line across from each other (Item 3 Fig.
B-6A). Secure set screw "B" firmly.

71
NOTES Alter you have adjusted the feed cam in Fig. B-6A.
loosen the two screws "13" and "C" on the vertical {~qc<.\
cam (Item I Pig. B-6B). Check (he alignment of the two
screws ("A11 and "IV). The alignment should be as
indicated in the lower diagram in Fig. B-6B. Secure the
set screws "B" and "C" firmly.

ADJUSTING THE HEIGHT OF THE FEED DOG -

ALL MODELS

ig. B-7

Rotate the handwheel towards you (counter clock

wise) and bring the needle to its highest position (Item 1
Fig. 13-7).

Set the feed dog to its highest level "UP" position

(this is normally located at the right bottom side of the
machine) (Item 2 Fig. B-7).

72
 Loosen the guide ring set screw (on Free arm NOTES
machines it is located on the drop feed adjusting arm).
Loosen only enough to make the adjustment.

Adjust the GUIDE RING to obtain the correct

distance between the needle plate and the l"ccd dog top of
teeth (0.8 to 1.0 mm). Item 4 upper right diagram.
For free-arm machines adjust the drop ^et\ adjusting
arm as indicated in Item 3 and 4 Fig. B-7.

SHUTTLE DRIVER SHAFT AND RACEWAY

CLEARANCE SEPARATION -
ALL MODELS EXCEPT FREE-ARM

Fig. B-8

0.2 mm

Remove the gear box cover and loosen the two set
screws on collar for the driver shaft (Item 1 Fig. B-8).
t oosen the screws just enough to make any adjustments.

73
NOTES The clearance should be very dose, per diagram in Item 2.
Set both distances at 0.0 mm.

Next, loosen the two set screws on the shuttle driver

shaft BEVEL GEAR (Item 3 Fig. 13-8), Adjust the driver
shaft gear to fa snugly, but not loo tight, to the lower shaft
gear (Item 4 Fig. B-8).

Next loosen the set screw on the shuttle driver shaft

bushing (item 5) and adjust the bushing at 0.2 mm (Item
6), so Ihe distance between the bushing and driver shaft
gear will be correct. Insure that all set screws are
tightened firmly. Now check the operation of the machine
to insure there is no binding and i( operates smoothly
Rotate (he handwheei by hand at the beginning as you
check the operation of the machine.

ZIGZAG WIDTH ADJUSTMENT -

ALIGNMENT OF HOLES,
MAXIMUM DISTANCE - ALL MODELS
 (A) Set needle position "I," and "M", zigzag width NOTKS
"O" left and right holes.
(B) Set needle position "M", zigzag width to "5",
left and right holes.

Loosen the lock nut, while holding the adjusting

screw in place (Item I, Fig. B-9), using an off-set box
wrench and a screw driver to hold the adjusting screw
steady while loosening the lock nut (Item 2). On free-arm
machines you will need to remove the base plate.

Now you can rotate the adjusting screw to obtain the

correct stitching as per example "O" in the lower left
diagram.

ZIGZAG SATIN STITCH SEAMS

ALL MODELS

Fig. B-10

75
 Set stitch length to "Fine" and zigzag width to "5"
NOTES (Hem I Tig. B-10). Use a box wrench to loosen the lock
nut, while holding the adjusting screw with a screw driver.
Don't let the adjusting screw move during the loosening of
the lock nut (Hem 2 & 3 Fig. B-10). .

At this lime adjust the screw left or right to obtain

the correct satin stitching forward or backwards. Fine tune
until the stitching is correct.

FEED REGULATOR GROOVED

CAM ADJUSTMENT -
ALL MODELS

Fig. B-M

Loosen the screw on bushing (Item 1 Fig. B-Il).

Adjust the stitch length to "0" (Item 2). Rotate the
grooved cam (Item 3) so a clearance of "0" is between the
regulator adjusting plate and the direction control

7C>
stud. Secure the screw (Item 1) (Irmly. Test sew and
make any line tuning as per above instructions.

ADJUSTMENT TO CENTER NEEDLE IN NEEDLE

PLATE-ALL MODELS

Fig.B-12

Set the needle position to middle (M) (Item 1 Fig.

B-12). Adjust the zigzag width lever to "0" and use the
straight stitch needle plate (Item 2).

Loosen the eccentric stud set screw slightly - just

enough to allow movement. Now you can adjust the
eccentric stud (Item 3) to set (he needle to its center
position in the straight stitch needle plate (Item 4). Secure
ihe set screw (Item 3) firmly. Rotate the handwheel by
hand to confirm the needle is correctly centered. NOTU:
Before starling this task, always install a new needle and
check to verify that the needle is not bent.

77
NOTES TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART FOR EXAMPLE
SEVEN MACHINES:

Various problems will be listed with possible

rensons for the problem as well as indicating which of the
procedures detailed earlier in this section can be used to
solve the problems.

IMPROPER TIMING OF NEEDLE AND SHUTTLE

HOOK
See Figures B -1 & 2 and detailed instructions for
correction.

MATERIAL NOT FEEDING

A. Improper positioning of needle plate- see
instruction book "to change needle plate" section for ail
models.
B. Not enough pressure on presser foot - see Fig.
B-4 and previously discussed instructions for correction.
C. Improper setting of feed cam - See Fig. B-5
D. Improper positioning of vertical feed cam - See
Fig. B-6 and detailed instructions.
E. Improper height of feed dog - See Fig. B-7.

NEEDLE KEEPS BREAKING

A. Incorrect needle position - See instruction book
"to change the needle" section for all models.
B. Wrong clearance between needle and shuttle
hook - See Fig. B-2 and B-3 A&B for correcting problem.

SLOW RUNNING MACHINE

A- Machine dry of oil - See instruction book

Oiling your machine" section - all models.
B. Lint and thread build-up in shuttle and feed dog
area - See instruction book "Cleaning the shuttle hook area
and your feed dog area" section - all models.

78
 NOTES
NOISY MACHINE

A. Machine dry of oil - Oil the machine per your

instruction book - all models.
B. Shuttle shaft not set right - See Fig. B-8 for
instructions on how to correct problem.

ZIGZAG WIDTH TOO WIDE

A. Zigzag width setting is adjusted improperly - See

Tig. B-9 for instructions on how to correct the problem.

SEAMS UNEVEN

A. Grooved cam feed regulator not set properly -

See Fig. B-10 for instructions to correct the problem.
B. Feed regulator not set properly - See Fig. B-l 1.

NEEDLE ALIGNMENT WITH NEEDLE SLOT NOT

SET RIGHT

A. Needle not centered - See Fig. B-l2 for

instructions to correct the problem.

LOWER THREAD BREAKS

A. Bobbin lias a nick or is bent - Change bobbins.

B. Bobbin spring has a nick or is scratched where
ihread pulls througii - Change the bobbin case, or replace
the spring where the thread pulls under.
C. Bobbin case tension too tight - Adjust screw
counter clockwise to relieve pressure on thread. See
instruction book under "adjusting lower tension" section.
D. Shuttle hook point area has a nick or rough spot -
Change out shuttle hook unit or remove scratch or nick.
NOTES UPPER THREAD BREAKS

A. Nick or scratch on shuttle hook - Change shuttle

or remove nick.
B. Upper thread tension too tight - Adjust tension to
lower number and check to see if some thread has broken
off between the tension discs.
C. Needle size too small for thread or needle hole
has a sharp edge - Change needle to new size.
D. Needle bent or has a blunt point - Change to a
new needle.
E. Machine lias been threaded wrong - Check your
manual for proper threading procedure.
F. Needle plate incorrect or damaged at point where
needle goes through the hole - Change needle plate.
 HINTS FOR THE SEWER/CRAFTER

1. Always turn the hand wheel of your sewing machine toward you, never
turn it away from you once the machine has been threaded. Also never run a threaded
sewing machine unless Ihere is a piece of fabric under the presser fool, this is probably
ihe easiest way to jam the machine, break needles and throw the machine out of timing!
To eliminate the possibility of a child doing damage to your machine, always unplug
it after finishing for the day.

2. Before beginning to sew, lay both threads under and toward the back of
the presser foot. The correct way of bring the bobbin thread up after changing the
bobbin is as follows (figure 134):

Figure 134

A) While holding the top ihread with the left hand, turn the handwheel
with the right hand until the needle is all the way down into the
bobbin area.
B) Keep holding the thread and rotating the handwheel, bring the
needle up to the highest point. As the needle comes up, a loop of
bobbin thread will come up with it. Pull on the top ihread to draw
up more of the bobbin thread.
C) Turn loose of the top thread, and pull on the loop of the bobbin
Ihread to bring up the free end of the bobbin Ihread.
D) Pass both the top and bobbin threads under the presser Foot and take
them back toward the right. Both Ihread ends should be at least 4"
long to prevent them from being pulled into the bobbin and
jamming as you begin sewing.

3. When beginning or ending a seam, make sure the take-up lever is in iis
highest position.

81
 4. Put a drop of oil into the hook/shuttle area regularly.

5. Alxnil once every six months spray all moving parts with a rust preven
tive fluid (like WD-40). This is done lo prevent the buildup of a light trace of rust on
the metal surfaces. (CAUTION: Do not spray directly into the motor.)

6. Be sure that the needle is in the center position when straight stitching.
Never straight stitch with the needle in the left or right positions (an exception to this
is when using a zipper foot).

7. It will save a great deal of "total working time" on a project if you will take
care of the thread ends as each bit of stitching is completed. If you fail to do this, it will
lake extra time when the project is finished lo trace out each loose hanging piece of
thread in order lo clip it. If you just leave the loose pieces of thread hanging, it will
detract from the overall professional look of the garment.

8. In some types of fabric, such as chiffon, you may find Ihc needle will drag
the fabric down into the needle hole when you begin to sew. Make sure you are using
a fine needle, have the tensions set properly, and if the problem still exists, place a piece
of gummed tape over the needle hole in the throat plate of the machine. The tape will
prevent the fabric from being "pulled" down, and can be removed easily later.

9. Back-slilching at the end of a line of machine stitching firmly fastens the

end, but sometimes can cause puckering of the fabric. To prevent this, hold the fabric
taut as you continue to operate the machine, taking several stitches in the same spot in
the fabric. These several stitches will secure the thread, but use your own judgement
in using this method, as you could cause damage to very fine lightweight fabrics.

10. Hinged presscr feet on sewing machines require different handling from
rigid ones because the pressure of the foot is less evenly distributed throughout its
entire length. The threads have a tendency to tangle at the beginning of the stitching
and the machine may stall on the tangled threads. Hold the loose thread ends gently
with the right hand as you begin stitching. If the threads are slightly taut, they cannot
tangle or be pulled down into the bobbin area to cause a jam.

11. To protect your sewing machine while it is not in use, you should place
a piece of fabric under the prcsscr fixrt and lower the foot onto it. Also, be sure to cover
the machine, as any dust settling in and around the moving parts can cause sewing

82
problems later on.

Never oil your sewing machine without first cleaning it as well as you
can, removing all the dust, lint, and pieces of thread from the bobbin area and throat
plate area.

13. There are three main points to be aware of each time the sewing machine
is used: 1) Make sure die take-up lever is at its highest point when stitching is started
and when the work is being removed from the machine. 2) Always drop the presser
foot before changing the tension on the upper thread (if the presser foot is in the up
position, you can turn the dial all day long, and the tension won't change!) 3) When
winding the bobbin, always thread the loose end of the thread through the hole in (he
side of the bobbin. If this loose thread end is held (Irmly, it will break off, leaving a
smoothly wound supply of thread in your bobbin.

14. The selection of your thread should be based on the type of fabric you are
using. The thread should blend with the fabric in color, fiber and size - refer to the
fabric/thread/needle chart for assistance.

15. The selection of your needle is very important. The needle should be fine
enough to prevent the fabric from being marred with large puncture holes, but still be
heavy enough to pierce the fabric without bending. Remember, also, that the eye of
the needle must be big enough for the thread to pass through freely, too fine a needle
will case the thread lo fray. (Refer to the fabric/threadyneedle/stitch length sizes.)

83
 FABRICWIRE'AD/NEEDLE COMPATIBLES

The size of the needle and thread you should use depends upon the size of the
fabric yarns in ihc fabric, Ihe finer the yarns, the finer both Ihe needle and thread need
to be.

Needle types related to fabric structure - sharp point (regular) for woven's; ball
point for knits, and wedgepohu for leather and vinyl. Figure 135 indicates the
differences in appearance of the three types of needles.
Figure 135

Regular sharp needle Ball-point needle Wedge-point needle

A. The regular sharp point needle is ideal for all woven fabrics because it
helps to produce an even stitching and causes a minimum of fabric puckering. This
needle is not recommended for knits, as it has a tendency to "cut" yarns and cause
skipped stitches. This needle comes in a wide range of sizes from the finest size 9 to
a heavy size 18. There are also the twin needle versions of the sharp point designed
for fancy lop stitching.

B. The ball point needle is specifically designed for knit and elastic fabrics.
This needle pushes between the fabric yarns rather than "cutting through" the yarns.
This needle comes in sizes 9 to 16. The larger the needle size, the more rounded the
needle point is.

C. The wedge point needle, which is designed for leather and vinyl, easily
pierces these fabrics to make a hole that will close back upon itself. This eliminates
unattractive holes in the garment, and also reduces the risk of the stitches tearing the
fabric. The wedge point needle comes in sizes 11 to 18; size 11 is designed for soft
pliable leathers, while size 18 is suitable for heavy or multiple layers of leather.

Thread type is chosen for iLs compatibility with the fabric's structure and fiber
content as well as the type of project being worked on. The following eharl shows the
various types oi' thread and its usage. Where si/e number apply, the higher the number,
the finer the thread; the median size is 50. Where letters indicate the si/e, A is fine and
D is heavy.

84
THREAD FIBERS AND USAGE

Basting Cotton: A loosely twisted thread used for hand basting. Loose
twist makes it easy to break for quick removal from the garment.
Available only in white - safest because there is no dye to rub off
on fabric.

Button ami Cotton; cotton-wrapped polyester: Tough, thick thread (size

carpet 16) used for hand-sewing jobs requiring super thread strength.
Thread usually has "glazed" finish that makes it easier to slip
through heavy fabric.

Darning Cotton: A very fine thread used for darning and mending.
cotton Strands can be separated, if desired, for work requiring even finer
thread.

Elastic Nylon/cotlon-wrapped rubber; A thick, very stretchy thread

used for shirring on sewing machine. Elastic thread h wound on
bobbin only.

Embroidery Cotton; rayon: Six thread strands twisted loosely together,

11 OSS made for decorative hand work. Strands can be separated for very
fine work.

Ext ra-fine Cotton; polyester; cotton-wrapped polyester: Thread (ap

proximately size 60) used for lingerie or other work requiring a
fine thread.

General Cotton: A medium thickness (size 50) is available in a wide range

purpose of colors (other sizes made in black and while only). Used for
machine and hand sewing on light- and medium-weight cottons,
rayons, and linens. Cotton thread is usually mercerized, a finishing
process that makes it smooth and lustrous, also helps it to take dye
better. The lack of give in cotton thread makes it an unwise choice
for knits or other stretchy fabrics, as the stitches tend to pop.

Silk: A fine (size A), strong thread for hand and machine sewing
on silk and wool, its fineness makes it ideal for basting all fabric

85
THREAD FIBERS AND USAGE

General types, as it does not leave holes from stitching or imprints after
purpose pressing. Because of its elasticity, silk, is also suitable for sew-
(con't) ing any type of knit. Recommended for tailoring because it can
be molded along with the fabric in shaped areas.

Nylon: A fine (size A), strong thread for hand and machine
sewing on light to medium-weight synthetics. Especially suited
to nylon tricot.

Polyester: An all-purpose weight (approximately size 50),

suitable for hand and machine sewing on most fabrics, but
particularly recommended for woven synthetics., also for knits
and other stretch fabrics of any fiber. Most polyester threads
have a wax or silicone finish to help them slip through fabric
with a minimum o( friction.

Cotton-wrapped polyester: An all-purpose weight (approxi

mately size 50) for hand and machine sewing on knits or wov-
ens, of synthetic or natural fibers, or blends. Polyester core
gives this thread strength and elasticity; cotton wrapping, a
tough, heat-resistant surface.

Heavy-duty Cotton; polyester; cotton-wrapped polyester: Coarse thread

(approximately size 40) used where extra strength is required
for hand or machine sewing of heavy vinyl, coating, or uphol
stery fabrics.

Metallic Metallized synthetic: Shiny silver or gold-colored thread,

used for decorative stitching by hand or machine.

Quilling Cotton: "Glazed" thread (size 40) used for hand or machine
quilting.

Silk twist Silk: Coarse thread (size D) used for topstitching and hand
worked buttonholes, also for decorative hand sewing and sew
ing on buttons.

86
 When put all together, the fabric type, thread size, needle size, and stitch length
all play a very important part in completing the sewing or craft project properly. The
following chart will help you make your choices easily when you start out on your next
project.

FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE

AND STITCH LENGTH CHART

THREAD NKEOLE STITCH LENGTH

FABRICS SIZES SIZES SETTING

Delicate: Net, chiffon, silk, voile, fine Fine mercerized 9 15 to 20

lace, organdy. "A" silk
Synthetic

Lightweight: batiste, synthetic sheers 50 mercerized i 1 12 to 15

paper taffeta, silk, chiffon, "A" silk (8 to 10 for
velvet, stretch fabric, tricot, Synthetic plastic)
plastic film.

Medium weight: Gingham, chambray 50 mercerized 14 12 to 15

pique, poplin, muslin, linen, "A" silk
chintz, double knit, jersey, 60 cotton
flannel, wool crepe, silk, fine Synthetic
corduroy, velveteen, satin, raw
silk, wool suiting, drapery fabrics,
stretch fabric

Medium heavy: Denim, sail cloth, Heavy-duty mercerized 16 10 to 12

gabardine, tweed, heavy suit- "A" silk
ing, coalings, slrelch fabric, 40 to 60 cotton
drapery fabrics. Synthetic

Heavy: Overcoatings, dungaree, Heavy-duty mercerized 18 8 to 10

ticking, canvas, upholstery 24 to 50 cotton
fabrics.

All weights: Decorative top stitching BD* silkf 18 6 to 12

(buttonhole twist)

\ use wiifi 50 mercerized or "A" silk in twhhin.

87
 The advantages of using silk thread for sewing "drycleanable" fabrics include
its strength, elasticity, smooth finish and freedom from tangling. The strength and
elasticity makes for longer wear and less popping of seams at points of strain.
 SEWING MACHINE ATTACHMENTS

1. ZIPPER FOOT - this foot is designed so that you can stitch very close to
a raised edge like a zipper, or on cording.

2. INVISIBLE ZIPPER FOOT - this foot is designed to stitch an invisible

zipper. This foot is usually adaptable to both the zipper and sewing machine style by
means of plastic parts, ("this is usually purchased separately from a notions supply
department).

3. HEMMING FOOT - This foot is designed to form and stitch a perfect

hem without basting or pressing in advance. U makes the small "shirt tail" type of hem.
It is also used to attach ruffles, lace, or any decorative trim.

4. GATHERING FOOT-This foot is designed to lock uniform fullness into

each stitch. It is to be used for shirring and gathering.

5. ROLLER FOOT - This fool is designed to feed hard-to-handle fabrics

like nylon or vinyl without slipping.

6. BUTTON FOOT- This foot is designed to hold a 2 or 4-hole button firmly

for zigzag or automatic stitching to secure it to the garment.

7. BINDER FOOT - This foot is designed to apply bias binding to an

unfinished edge without pinning or basting in advance.

89
 FABRIC CONVERSION CHART

Because space on the pattern envelope does not permit the inclusion of all fabric
widths, those listed arc for Ihc fabric types most suited to the design. If you plan to
purchase fabric in a width that is nol included, consult the conversion chart below for
the approximate amount needed. (You might want to make a photocopy of this
conversion chart lo carry in your purse to have handy when you purchase fabric.)
Fabric requirements are carefully calculated by experts to be economical yet adequate.
IZxccpt when allowance must bo made for special fabric, such as a plaid, or for involved
alterations, there is no need to buy more than is specified.

FABRIC WIDTHS
35-36" 39" 41" 44-45" 50" 52-54" 58-60" 66"
1 3/4 I 1/2 1 1/2 1 3/8 1 i/4 1 1/8 1 7/8
2 13/4 1 3/4 \ 5/8 \ 1/2 \ 3/8 \ W4 \ 1/8
2 1/4 2 2 1 3/4 I 5/8 I 1/2 1 3/8 I 1/4
2 1/2 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/8 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 5/8 I 1/2
g 2 7/8 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/4 2 \ 7/8 1 3/4 i 5/8
< 3 1/8 2 3/4 2 3/4 2 1/2 2 1/4 2 I 7/8 1 3/4
2 3 3/8 3 2 7/8 2 3/4 2 3/8 2 1/42 1 7/8
£33/4 3 1/4 3 1/8 27/8 2 5/8 2 3/8 2 1/4 2 1/8
4 1/4 3 1/2 3 3/8 3 1/8 2 3/4 2 5/8 2 3/8 2 1/4
4 1/2 3 3/4 3 5/8 3 3/8 3 2 3/4 2 5/8 2 1/2
4 3/4 4 3 7/8 3 5/8 3 1/4 2 7/8 2 3/4 2 5/8
5 41/4 4 1/8 3 7/8 3 3/8 3 1/8 2 7/8 2 3/4

Add additional 1/4 yard lor: large difference in fabric widths; one-directional
fabrics; styles with sleeves cut in one piece with body of garment.

EXAMPLE: If you found some very nice fabric that you want to use for a specific
pattern - the fabric is 60" wide and the pattern yardages only go up lo 45" wide on the
pattern package, you could be purchasing loo much fabric unless you consult this
conversion chart. If the pattern package says you need 1 3/4 yards of 36" wide fabric,
you can readily see that if you have 60" wide fabric, you'd need only I yard.

90
 The

Sewing

Room
N O T E S

92
 THE SEWING ROOM

Doctors, dentists, architects, and artists have special tools for special purposes.
And so should the home sewer and the seamstress who makes a living doing sewing
for others. Your work will be much easier and more satisfying when you have the
needed assortment of needles, thimbles, scissors, measuring guides, hem tape, chalk,
etc. You should have one "pin" cushion holding only a graded assortment of needles
while another holds the dressmaker pins, as well as "clipper" scissors to clip threads
as you sew and proper shears for cutting heavy fabrics and others for cutting lighter
fabrics.

While the sewing "accessory" listing on the next several pages does not include
every item you may want and need in your sewing room, it will give you general
information on a variety of sewing notions available.

Probably every project you work on, whether a garment or craft item, will
include some hand sewing as well as machine sewing. The proper hand sewing needle
is important to the overall workmanship of your project. Following is a listing of the
various types of hand sewing needles and their general purpose.
t'OriUN DAHNfcR

D ^

\CALYX

TAF ESTH y
'".■ — ■ ".:

A. SHARPS (sizes 1-12) are the most commonly used hand sewing needles.
They are medium length, have a round eye and are suitable for almost all fabric
weights.

B. BETWEENS (sizes I-12) are also known as "quilling0 needles. Because

they are shorter in length, using them will enable you to take fine stitches in heavy
fabric.

93
 C. MILLINERS (sizes 3/0-12) are the longer needles In the group and work very
well for basting.

D. DARNERS (sizes 1-9) are designed for darning with fine cotton or wool.

E. CALYX-EYES (sizes 4-8) arc similar to sharps except that the thread is
pulled into a slot rather than threaded through the eye.

F. TAPESTRY needles (sizes 13-26) are heavy and have blunt points. These
needles are used mainly for needlepoint and tapestry work. They can also serve the
purpose of a bodkin.

Of course, there arc many other types of needles (long, thin beading needles,
curved upholstery needles, large eyed yarn darners, medium length, long eyed crewels
For embroidery, etc.), but you can readily see that what we have pictured will give you
a big variety for most of the projects you'll be doing.

Just as there are certain sewing machine needles designed for particular fabrics,
the same thing is true with hand sewing needles. The following chart will give you the
thread and needle sizes to use for various types of hand sewing.

Embroidery Embroidery floss, Yarn darner, embroidery,

Silk D, yarn sharps

Fastenings Cotton, synthetics, Embroidery, sharps,

Silk D, button and betweens
carpet (for heavy
fastenings)

Gathering and Cotton, synthetics, Embroidery, sharps,

shining elastic, Silk A betweens

Quilting Quilting or other Betweens

thread, depending on
the effect desired

Top-siitching Cotton, synthetics, Betweens, sharps

Silk A, or Silk D

94
 A suggestion lor threading hand sewing needles easily is u» hold ihe needle
toward a white or light colored surface so that the light shines through the needle eye
U you do this, you will find it easier to push the thread toward the needle rather than
moving (he needle toward the thread.

If you need to sew on a button, but the only matching thread you have is a fine
type of thread, you can make the fine thread strong by drawing it across beeswax
doubling it, then roll it between the palms of your hands to form a single, twisted thread
If you need extra heavy thread, simply double tin's twisted thread to form a four-niv
thread. * J

SCISSORS

A. BENT HANDLE DRESSMAKER SHEARS are best for pattern cutting.

The angle of the lower blade lets the fabric be flat. Dressmaker shears are made in 6"
to 12" lengths; however the 7" and 8" are the most widely used.

B. SEWING SCISSORS are grouped in with the "miscellaneous" scissors to be

used as general all-purpose sewing room cutting - come in 5" and 6" lengths.

C. BUTTONHOLE SCISSORS, just like the name, are 4 1/2" long, and are used
to cut buttonholes.

95
 D. SEWING MACHINE EMBROIDERY SCISSORS make cutting and clip
ping easy when you're doing sewing machine embroidery.

E-F. HEAVY DUTY INDUSTRIAL SERRATED BENTTRIMMERS, shown

in 8" and 10" lengths come in handy if you're doing sewing with denims, canvas, etc.

G. PINKING SHEARS come right and left handed, as most scissors do. Also
available are "scalloping" shears. Both are used on fabrics that may ravel, so you can
make zig zag ravcl-rcsislant edges. These are also used for decorative edges.

H THREAD CLIPS are one of the most widely used and favored scissors in the
sewing room. Use them for clipping threads at the beginning and ends of seams as
you're sewing, when changing colors, etc.

L HAND EMBROIDERY SCISSORS are designed for use in land embroidery

projects.

Sffilv" wriL °KnO* ^ tHe nOti°nS Usted on these Pages

Pensacola Fl w«« Sarah's Sewing Supplies, 7267 Mobile Hwy.,
tensacola, FL 32526 and request a free notions catalog.

96
 MEASURING DEVICES

Ti T—-
mkf
r
EZY-HEM GAUGE \

D620

V D691

■ *
MM MB

A. SEE-THRU DRESSMAKER RULER - 6" clear plastic with parallel slots

for marking bias strips, etc.

B. FRENCH CURVE - flexible plastic for altering patterns.

C. FASHION RULER - four rulers in one; cut out slot, hip curves, French curve
and straight edge, with instructions. MINI-FASHION RULER also available.

D. ADJUST-A-DART - for adjusting bust darts on store bought patterns to

personal cup size.

E. SEWING GUAGE-6" aluminum.

F. TAILORETTE - 6" plastic with chalk for marking.

97
 G. VUE-THRU DRESSMAKER GAUGE - 6 inch clear plastic with one
straight edge and one with scallops.

H. EZY-HEM GAUGE - aluminum, for pressing up hems.

I. TAPE MEASURE - 60" in length

J. T-SQUARE - 12" ruler with parallel cutout slots; perfect for pattern making
and adjusting commercial patterns.

K. CURVED RULER - used in pattern making for making hip line curves,
waistline curves, and armhole to waist curves.

MARKING DEVICES RHM>ERSITH READERS

Pin Chalk lti^nrt

A E

OOOQQO
Chalk !■■( 111

Chalk sharpener
B
B

Chalk Holder "Sew Handy"

Needle Grlpper

Chalk Insert

push needle pull needle out

through

A, TAILOR TACKER transfers construction markings to both sides of fabric

in one lime saving operation. Comes with 10 pieces of chalk.

98
 B. TAILOR CHALK WITH HOLDER is a plastic case with white chalk,
sharpener and brush. Colored chalk refills are also available.

C. TAILOR CHALK PENCIL comes as a unit with extra refills of colored

chalk, or regular chalk pencils with a brush end are available.

D. TRACING WHEELS are used with dressmaker's tracing paper to transfer

pattern markings to fabric. Two choices are available - serrated edge wheel or a smooth
edged wheel.

E-F-G. SEAM RIPPERS come several ways, the DELUXE (E) is hardened
steel with safety ball and clear cap. the COMPACT (F) is smaller for use in more
delicate sewing areas, and the RIPPER/THREADER (G) has a seam ripper at one end
and a needle threader at the other end.

H-I-J. NEEDLE THREADERS also come in various styles. The needle

threader WITH MAGNIFIER (H) has a wire threader. Regular threaders for hand or
machine needles come 3 to a package, and YARN THREADERS for yarn and
embroidery floss, which come 2 to a package.

K. NEEDLE GRIPPER is among the handiest tools to have if you work a lot
with heavy fabrics. The needle gripper helps to get the needle pushed through and then
helps you pull the needle out of the fabric.

NOTE: If you cannot find the

locally write to Sarah's Sewing Supplies, 7267 Mobile Hwy.,
Pensacola,
32526 and request a free notions catalog.
 MISCELLANEOUS NOTIONS

A. BEESWAX & HOLDER- reduces static, tangling and knotting. Strengthens

thread. Plastic holder keeps wax and fingers clean.

B. POINT TURNER/BUITON GAUGE - for pushing out corners of collars.

BuUon gauge for making various heights of buttons.

C. AWL - used for punching holes in leather, etc. Comes with a protective
sheath.

D. LOOP TURNER - latch hook holds and turns bias tubing, 10" long.

E. CLAMP TYPE BODKIN for inserting elastic, ribbon and drawstrings.

F. ROD TYPE BODKIN with ball end for turning things inside out and
threading.

G-H. PIN CUSHIONS - wrist type to keep pins handy, and the regular tomato
type with strawberry emery for sharpening needles.

I. SEWING MACHINE COVER - a most important item to keep dust away

from the machine when it's not in use.

J-K. LINT BRUSHES - also very important for use in keeping the machine
clean and free from lint.

100
 L. MAGNETIC SEAM GUIDE - insures a uniform seam width and fits all types
of machines.

M. "SNAG NAB-IT" - a small latch hook that repairs snags and pulls in knits,
etc. You won't want to be without this repair tool!

PIN CATCHFP
Imioiihc p i it c ii i m i iT? X m

SWISS MADE IRIS SUPER FINE

PINS WON'T j
LEAVE
HOLES

The use of proper pins for your sewing and craft projects is as important as using
the right needles and thread. We will not attempt to discuss every pin on the market,
but only a few of the most popular ones.

A. IBC SILK PINS are 1 I/41 longand are super fine - finer than any other silk
pin. Leaves no snags, leaves no holes.

B. IBC GLASS HEAD PINS are I 3/8" long and also super fine. The ultimate
smooth silk pin, even longer than usual, glass head makes them easy to sec.
101
 C IBC ALL PURPOSE PINS are 1 1/2" long, are smooth and Tine. These can
be used on even fine knits - weave the extra long pins into the fabric and they won't fall
out. Can also be used on Ultra Suede as they won't leave holes.

D. IBC QUILTING PINS are 1 3/4" long and fine. These are. the same smooth
pin as the all purpose pin only 1/4" longer for bulky quilting projects. The yellow head
makes them easy to see.

E. IRIS SUPER F;INE PINS are Swiss made and are extra fine. These pins are
I 1/4" long and won't leave holes; won't bend.

F. PIN CATCHER - very important in keeping track of your pins while sewing.
This magnetic "pincushion" keeps track of your pins so you can sew faster, better, and
lets you keep your eyes on your work.

G. IRONING BOARD ORGANIZER KIT - slay organized as you leave the

sewing machine and go to the ironing board. The compact organizer keeps scissors,
rulers and notions at your fingertips, but never in your way.

102
 IRONING ACCESSORIES
A
PRESS-A-MAGIC
MEASURING GUIDE Multi-Purpose Measuring Guide
IL WOttE CIUM!» HXHI

PRESS BLOCK

■■ ,
<

blockimu. Bf*inQ *mo PMtssmu cloih

m ,:-l

t
::: .
I

A. PRESS-A-MAGIC table top measuring guide - 20" X 59", 2 color screen

printed measuring guide is used for fast and easy sewing, blocking, hemming, bias
strips, quilting and more.

B. PRESS-A-MAGIC ironing board cover- true bias guideline, hemming

guidelines, same measuring lines as "table top" in ironing board cover form.

C. PRESS 'N1 BLOCK - ironing board surface measures 10" X 24 1/2"; fits Elna
press, Bernette press, Suprapress, Singer press, Huskypress and other small press and
ironing boards. Drawstring for snug fit.

D. SURE BLOCK - 44" X 62" 100% heavy cotton working surface with 1"
square grid line measurements. Used for blocking, needlework, knitting, quilting,
sewing, pinning, pattern layout, anchoring braiding and macrame, craftwork, and
much more.

103
NOTES

104
 SEWING MACHINE REPAIR AS A HOME BUSINESS

You can make $2,000 or more per month doing sewing machine repair. Spend as

much or as litlle time as you want - work the hours you want. Take a day off

whenever you choose. YOU are the boss; this is YOUR business. You can start

off small, just working evenings and weekends or get aggressive and turn sewing

machine repair into a full time, very lucrative business - the choice is yours.

Sewing machine repair can be done with very little money up front. By simply

informing friends thai own sewing machines that you are able to work on their

machine will get your business started. Have a flyer made up announcing your

new business and go around to dry cleaners, big department stores, hospitals, etc.

and let them know about your business. Virtually anyone can succeed in this

business If they are willing to pul genuine effort into it. The sewing machine

repair market has never been stronger than it is today!

This portion of the Sewing Machine Repair as a Home Business Manual contains

detailed information on how to start up your business, how to market yourself,

pricing guidelines, information on bookkeeping, taxes, advertising and much

more. A person dealing in the sewing machine repair business who approaches

their work in a serious and businesslike manner will do very well. The old saying

"You are what you think you are" is definitely true. If you have confidence in

yourself (and if you don't, you need to start giving yourself some pep talks) and

keep an optimistic attitude and outlook on the business and life in general, you

will find that the sky is the limit. Train yourself, beginning right now, to think

more positively about what you are able to do, tell yourself (hat nothing is going

105
to stop you from reaching your goals (by the way - have you made some goals?)

and believe in yourself and what you are doing. You will be a success in this
business!

106
 STARTING YOUR BUSINESS

There are three types of business organizations that you have to choose from in

order to create your business. The three choices are (1) sole proprietorship, (2)

partnership and (3) corporation.

The most common type of business organization for home based businesses is the

sole proprietorship. This type of business only lias one principal owner who is

responsible for any debts that the business may incur and this owner pays taxes on

the net income of the business. This type of business is the easiest to start or

terminate - and this is the type that we would recommend for you.

The second choice for your business organization is the partnership. In this type

of business, two or more individuals agree to co-own a business. The basic

problem with the partnership is that any of the partners could make a major

decision without the approval or knowledge of the other partner or partners. If

this major decision happens to be a bad decision, all of the partners will suffer. If

this major bad decision causes the business to fail with mountains of bills left

behind all of the partners are equally responsible, not just the one who made the

wrong decision - in addition, if there are not enough assets in the business to

satisfy the debts, the partners1 personal assets could be seized to satisfy the debts

to the creditors. If you choose to go with the partnership, be sure to go to a lawyer

and get the necessary paperwork drawn up so that each of the partners knows what

their rights and responsibilities are.

107
The third type of business organization is the corporation. A corporation is a

business set up by law to act as a single person. There are usually several people

involved in selling up the corporation. You would have to go through a lawyer to

get the corporation set up, naming a board of directors, officers, etc. The

advantage of a corporation is (hat each person involved is limited financially to the

amount of money he has invested in case of a business failure. The disadvantage

of a corporation for a small business is that it requires much more paperwork and

recordkeeping. Tax returns have to be filed for the corporation as well as

individual tax forms for the persons involved, which results in additional time and

accounting expense.

We would advise you to keep your business organization and recordkeeping as

simple as possible in order that you can spend asmuch time as possible doing what

you really want to do — make money!! In other words, if you aren't burying

yourself with paperwork you can concentrate on building up your business. We'll

go into more detail on recordkeeping a little later.

108
 NAMING YOUR BUSINESS

Probably one of the first major tasks for you is to pick a name for your new

business. Let me advise you against picking a fancy long "catchy" name that may

be hard for your customers to remember, h is, after all, your business, and you

can name it whatever you want, but let me warn you about the pitfalls of the fancy

"hard to remember" name. Unless you list your business name in the yellow pages

of the phone book under the proper heading "sewing machine repair", your

customers will not be able to get hold of you. A general business listing in the

phone book white pages with your "catchy" name simply will not work. Your

customers may think your business name is "cute" but a few days or weeks later

they will not be able to remember it. If you wish to use something like "Speedy

Sewing Machine Repair", be sure to contact your telephone company

representative about yellow page advertising.

Just as we advised you to keep your business organization simple - we advise

keeping the business name simple also. How about "Sam's Sewing Machine

Repair". Using your name as part of the business name will be easy for the

customer to remember and you won't have to file For a fictitious name.

After deciding on your business name, you'll need to get some business cards

made - usually the minimum order is 1,000 and an estimate for the cost would be-

around $25 to $30. You will want to give out a business card to all of your new

customers for repeat business and also for them to refer their friends to you.

Again, make the business card simple and to the point with your business name

109
and a logo if you want to have a logo, then your address and phone number a! the

bottom of the card.

In addition to business cards, you should have some small self-adhesive labels

made with your name, address and phone number. Attach one of the labels to the

side of the repaired sewing machine so the customer will have a ready reference to

find you when she needs you again. These labels will be permanently attached to

the sewing machine so will not get lost like flyers and business cards sometimes

do.

1(0
 BUSINESS LICENSE

Licensing requirements vary from state to stale and city to city, so you will need to

check with your city clerk's office to see what your local requirement is. Some

cities or counties require a business license for a home-based business, while

others do not. The same thing applies to sales lax - a slate requirement. Sales tax

will need to be collected if you live in a state that has a state sales tax. You will

need to get a resale (tax) number from the state and they will send you the proper

forms and instructions for sending the sales tax you've collected back to the state

either monthly or quarterly. (See the following pages for a listing of state

government information telephone numbers). Sales tax must be collected on

everything you seJl retail. For example, if you sell thread or needles to a customer

and you live in a stale where there is a sales tax you must add tax to ihe retail sales

price.

When you purchase materials and supplies to resell to your customers be sure to

give the suppliers (see listing of wholesale suppliers in the back of this book) your

state tax ID number so you won't have to pay sales tax on them at the time of

purchase. The stale doesn't want to collect tax twice on the same goods (once

from you when you buy the materials and the second time from the person you sell

the items to). Therefore, when you buy the materials and supplies with no tax, by

showing your tax identification number, the clerk or supplier knows you will

collect tax when .you sell the item to your customer.

Ill
Don't let the requirement of collecting sales tax prevent you from making retail

sales to your customers. The collection of and turning in sales tax is a very minor,

but important, task in this business, and is worth the time it takes to do the

paperwork! Look through 'The Sewing Room" section of this book and you will

get ideas of many items you will be able to sell to your customers! It has been our

experience that Sewing Machine Repairmen that have a supply of sewing notions

with them (placed in a display box or briefcase so the customer can see what is

available) will make sales of thread, seam rippers, lint brushes, seam guides, etc.,

that many limes will equal or be greater than the sewing machine job itself) You

can literally increase your sewing machine repair profits by 25% or more with the

addition of sewing notion sales.

The addition of tax on the actual sewing machine repair job itself will also vary

from state to state. In some states there is a sales tax on "services", while other

states there is not. Be sure to ask this question while you are at your city clerk's

office to sec what your local and state requirement is.

112
 State Government Information Numbers

Alabama (205) 832-6011

Alaska (907) 465-2111

Arizona (602) 255-4900

Arkansas (501) 371-3000

California (916) 322-9900

Colorado (303) 839-5000

Connecticut (203) 566-2211

Delaware (302) 736-4000

Florida (904) 488-1234

Georgia (404) 656-2000

Hawaii (808) 548-2211

Idaho (208) 334-2411

Illinois (217) 782-2000

Indiana (317) 232-3140

Iowa (515) 281-5011

Kansas (913) 296-0111

Kentucky (502) 564-2500

Louisiana (504) 342-6600

Maine (207) 289-1110

Maryland (301) 269-6200

113
Massachusetts (617) 727-2121

Michigan (517) 373-1837

Minnesota (296) 296-6013

Mississippi (601) 354-7011

Missouri (314) 751-2151

Montana (406) 449-2511

Nebraska (402) 471-2311

Nevada (702) 885-4065

New Hampshire (603) 271-1110

New Jersey (609) 292-2121

New Mexico (505) 827-4011

New York (518) 474-2121

North Carolina (919) 733-1110

North Dakota (701) 224-2000

Ohio (614) 466-2000

Oklahoma (405) 521-2011

Oregon (503) 378-3131

Pennsylvania (717) 787-2121

Rhode Island (401) 277-2000

South Caroling (803) 758-0221

South Dakota (605) 773-3011

Tennessee (615) 741-3011

Texas (512) 475-2323

114
Utah (801) 538-3000

Vermont (802) 828-1110

Virginia (804) 786-0000

Washington (206) 753-5000

West Virginia (304) 348-3456

Wisconsin (608) 226-2211

Wyoming (307) 777-7220

115
 WORK OUT OF MY GARAGE OR FIND A BUSINESS LOCATION?

WORK OUr OF YOUR GARAGE!!! This is a "Home Based Business" and vou

will have advantages thai those sewing machine retail outlets and other sewing

machine repair retail outlets don't have. These fantastic advantages will bring you

countless numbers of sewing machine repair jobs! You will literally "snatch" the

repair jobs away from those in a retail environment!

First of all you can advertise "FREE PICK UP AND DELIVERY" and will be able

to do it because you don't have to sit in your retail establishment all day "waiting"

for customers to come in. In addition you can advertise "IN HOME SERVICE AT

NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE" and be able to do it because you don't have to sit

in your retail establishment all day "waiting" for customers lo come in. 'Chink

about all the sewing machines in those cabinets that the ladies are unable to get

out of the cabinets - who are they going to call? YOU! What about all the ladies

who have heavy sewing machines, even if they are in a carrying case, and have a

problem transporting the machine. Who are they going to call? YOU! What

about those that are caught in the middle of a major sewing project when the

machine quits and they don't have time to take it to a shop and then wait weeks

until it is ready before they can go back to pick it up? Who are they going to call

to gel IN HOME SERVICE - TODAY? YOU! If you are able to get to the

machine within a day or two, you will indeed be a lifesaver For the seamstress!

She will brag about you to everyone she knows that sews and make a

recommendation that they contact YOU for any repairs they might need! Don't

even think about a business location - slay at home with this business!

116
 BOOKKEEPING

Bookkeeping is probably the most important aspect of your new business. You

will want to keep accurate records of your expenses and income for lax purposes,

and then keep your tax returns and records for a minimum of five years. I don't

mean to scare you when I talk about the importance of bookkeeping - it actually

isn't hard, just something you need to be conscientious about. If you get into the

habit of keeping all of your receipts (postage, bills from printers for printing

flyers, business cards, labels, etc.). In addition, it is extremely important that you

keep track of your mileage - this will probably be the biggest tax write off you will

have. We suggest that you get a small pocket calendar in which you can keep

track of your DAILY trips. For example on Monday the 3rd you may have

beginning odometer reading 11,235.6, ending reading 11,247.4 along with a

notation "Mary Smith". At the end of the year go back through the calendar and

add up each days' mileage for a grand total for the year. A service business that is

mostly profit, the mileage may be the biggest deduction you will have, and the

current IRS deduction of .28 cents per mile can add up to be a big deduction. The

pocket calendar then becomes part of your tax records for the year.

You will need to open a separate checking account to keep the business income

and expenses separate from your personal expenses. If you will be taking charges

(Visa or MasterCard), you will have to have a business account and let the bank

officer opening your account for you know that you want to be able to take Visa

and MasterCard and they will fill out ihe necessary paperwork for you and give

you all of the supplies you will need, or will head you in the right direction to

117
make application that will allow you to take charge cards. It has been our

experience that nearly all of the sewing machine repair jobs will be paid for in

cash or check. However, if at some point in time you decide you want to start

selling some inexpensive sewing machines that are available through the

wholesale suppliers, you might be able to make some additional sales if you do

offer to take Visa or MasterCard. Sometimes the potential customer may not have

enough casii on hand and will prefer to charge the purchase. Other people prefer

to charge so they don't have to carry around cash and you might lose these sales if

you don't offer credit card charging.

On the oilier hand, if you elect to keep your business simple and slay with just the

sewing machine repair and minor sales like thread, needles, etc., it would nol be

necessary to offer Visa and MasterCard. If you choose to go the simple and easy

route (at least at the beginning - you can always apply for charge cards later), you

will be able to just open a personal checking account with your name, rather than

the business name, and have "special account" printed on the checks. This method

will eliminate the business charges that you would have if you opened a regular

business account.

You will need to get a record book that you can use lo keep track of your sewing

machine repair jobs and sewing notions you sell (you can keep track of them by

day, week, or month - you'll need this information for your sales tax return, as well

as for end of the year Federal taxes).

118
If you prefer you could devise a record keeping sheel instead of a book where you

can record all of the necessary information:

DATE Sewing Machine Repair/Notions Sold Price

You might also want to add a category to put the customer's name and address

beside their order (for mailing list purposes) unless you're keeping a separate card

on each customer.

We HIGHLY recommend that you keep a separate 3x5 card on KACH

CUSTOMER, that includes her name, address, phone number, make & model of

sewing machine, etc. Write the dale of service and the problem that was repaired,

as well as any sewing notions that she bought from you. Keep these cards in a

card file and file them BY MONTH. Then, next year for example in February

you would take MARCH of last year's cards out of the box and call each person or

send a post card (see sample in back of book) to let them know that it is time for

the annual cleaning and oiling in order to keep their machine running in tip top

condition. By following this one simple task, you can DOUBLE your business! It

seems that people are conditioned not to worry about something until it breaks

down - and that usually happens in the middle of an important project! By

educating your customers a little about the advantage of this annual check up and

tune up, you will end up saving your customers hours of frustration and you will

get countless additional referrals simply because YOUR customers1 machines will

continue to run day after day after day!

119
Regardless of vvhat method you want to use for keeping track of your income and

expenses, I would recommend that you go to your local Internal Revenue Service

office and pick up a "Schedule C" - the form for reporting a profit or loss from a

"sole proprietorship" type of business. Look over the form to see how they have

the expense categories broken down. By using this as a guideline, you will be

more aware of what type of expenses arc used for a lax deduction and you will be

able to separate your expenses accordingly.

Whether you do your own year-end taxes or have an accountant or bookkeeper do

them for you - you'll be ahead of the game if you keep all of your receipts

throughout the year. Also, make sure you keep all of your tax returns, records and

receipts for a minimum of five years, just in case of an audit.

120
 Help from the Small Business Administration

The Small Business Administration (SBA) is

designed to help you get your business started right.

There are many offices throughout the United States

where you may write for information, and they have a

wealth of informational booklets and publications that

you may write for - and they're all FREE, which makes

it a better deal yetl

The following list gives you the addresses of all

the SBA Field Offices - write to the one nearest you

for a listing of their publications:

Boston Massachusetts 02203

John Fitzgerald Kennedy BIdg.

Holyoke Massachusetts 01040

326 Appleton Street

Augusta Maine 04330

Federal BIdg., US Post Office
40 Western Avenue

Concord New Hampshire 03301

55 Pleasant Street

121
Hartford Connecticut 06103
Federal Office Building
450 Maine Street

Mon;oelier Vermont 05601

Federal Bldg, 2nd Floor
87 State Street

Providence Rhode Island 02903

702 Smith Building
57 Eddy S

New York New York 10007

26 Federal Plaza, Room 3930

Hato Rey Puerto Rico 00919

255 Ponce De Leon Avenue

Newark New Jersey 07102

970 Broad St., Room 1636

Syracuse New York 13202

Hunter Plaza
Fayette & Salina Sts.

Buffalo New York 14203

Federal Bldg, Room 9
121 Ellicott Street

Albany New York 12297

91 State

Philadelphia Pennsylvania 19004

1 Decker Square

122
Wilmington Delaware 19801
U.S. Customs House
6th and King

Baltimore Maryland 21201

1113 Federal Building
Hopkins Plaza

Clarksburg West Virginia 26301

Lownde Bank Building
119 N 3rd Street

Charleston West Virginia 25301

3410 Courthouse &
Federal Building
500 Quarrier Street

Pittsburgh Pennsylvania 15222

Federal Building
1000 Liberty Avenue

Richmond Virginia 23240

Federal Building
400 N 8th Street

Washington D.C. 20417

1405 "I" Street NW

Atlanta Georgia 30309

1401 Peachtree St, NE

Birmingham Alabama 35205

908 S 20th

123
Charlotte North Carolina 28202
Addison Building
222 S. Church

Columbia South Carolina 29201

1801 Assembly Street

Jackson Mississippi 39205

245 Capitol Street

Gulfport Mississippi 39501

2500 14th Street

Jacksonville Florida 32202

Federal Office Building
400 W Bay Street

Louisville Kentucky 40202

Federal Office Building
600 Federal Place

Miami Florida 33130

Federal Office Building
51 SW 1st Avenue

Tampa Florida 33602

Federal Building
500 Zack Street

Nashville Tennessee 37219

500 Union

Knoxville Tennessee 37902

502 S. Gay

124
Memphis Tennessee 38103
Federal Building
167 N. Main Street

Omaha Nebraska 68102

Federal Building
215 N. 17th Street

St. Louis Missouri 63102

Federal Building
210 N. 12th Street

Wichita Kansas 67202

120 S. Market

Denver Colorado 80202

721 19th

Casper Wyoming 82601

300 N. Center Street

Fargo North Dakota 58102

653 N 2nd Avenue

Helena Montana 59601

Power Block Building
Main & 6th Avenue

Salt Lake City Utah 84111

Federal Building
125 S. State Street

125
Sioux Fails South Dakota 57102
National Bank Building
8th & Main Avenue

San Francisco California 94102

Federal Building
450 Golden Gate Ave.

Fresno California 93721

Federal Building
1130 "O" Street

Honolulu Hawaii 96813

1149 Bethel

Agana Guam 96910

Ada Plaza Center Bldg.

Los Angeles California 90014

849 S. Broadway

Las Vegas Nevada 89101

300 Las Vegas Blvd. S

San Bernardino California 92401

532 N. Mountain Ave.

Phoenix Arizona 85004

122 N Central Ave.

Tucson Arizona 85701

Federal Building
155 E. Alameda St.

126
San Diego California 92101
110 West C Street

Seattle Washington 98104

506 2nd

Anchorage Alaska 99501

1016 West 6th Ave.

Fairbanks Alaska 99701

510 3rd Ave.

Juneau Alaska 99801

Federal Building

Boise Idaho 83702

216 N. 8th St.

Portland Oregon 97205

921 SW Washington St.

Spokane Washington 99210

Courthouse Bldg, Room 651

127
 You may write to the SBA office closest to you and

ask for a listing of publications that they have

available. The following list gives you some specific

publications to order that we feel will help you to get

started. You can just order them by publication and

title as they are listed here.

#1 Handicrafts & Home Businesses

#15 Record Keeping Systems
#46 How to Analyze Your Own Business
#71 Checklist for Going fnto Business
#121 Measuring the Results of Advertising
#144 Getting the Facts for Income Tax Reporting
#192 Profile Your Customers to Expand Sales
#193 What is the Best Selling Price

128
 SETTING BUSINESS GOALS

Up to this point we have talked about getting your business off on the right foot.
Now we want to talk a little bit about making .sure that the business stays on the
right path - through goal setting.

It is a known Fact that "if you aim at nothing, you will hit it", h is also a known
fact that if you stood outside your car, put it in gear, and backed off, there's no
possible way that the car would stay on the road! By (he same token, if you don't
set some specific plans and goals for your business - how will you ever know if

you're on the right road or if you're heading for the ditch? How will you know if

you've accomplished anything at all? Are you moving forward or backward, are

you even moving?

Take some time right now and write down a few goals and then expand on them

later. What do you really want to accomplish with your business (some extra

grocery money? a little more money to buy a new TV, furniture or help pay

college expenses for your child? a part-time work at home job? a full time

business?). How much lime can you devote to your sewing machine repair

business?

There are other questions you will think of relating to business goals. You should

sit down with four sheets of paper for working out your goals - you need to have

weekly goals, monthly goals, 1 year goal plan and a 5 year goal plan.

129
At the beginning your 1 year and 5 year goal planning sheet will be pretty empty,

but as you go along, they will get fuller. Your immediate attention will be on the
weekly and monthly goals. These have to be specific "I will do this first, I will do
this second, I will do this third" type of goals. Then each day do something! Your
weekly and even monthly goals will be changing and will need to be somewhat
flexible, but that does not mean that you will disregard them! As you write and

re-write the goal and daily "to do" sheets, and make sure you have accomplished

something each day, you'll be amazed at how fast the whole business will come

together. After a few weeks, then months, you can look back and see that the

simple goal setting details were the very thing that helped you get your business

off the ground.

You can keep down a lot of confusion and wasting of lime if you'll get a year or

18 month calendar for keeping track of advertisements coming out, etc. This will

eliminate running the same ad twice or forgetting to run it again, etc. Ifyou later

decide not to run that ad or do that mailing you can X through that date and know

it would be available for something else.

While we're on the subject of planning your calendar, I want to mention to you

about the tremendous potential of the Christmas Season, Back To School time,
and Spring for your sewing machine repair business. We'll talk about this again in

the section about advertising, but we feel these three times of the year are so very
important to the success of your business that it needs to be highlighted here.

130
You may not be aware of the fact that many retailers do half of their annual

business during the Christmas season. What this means to you is that you need to

get the word out about your business as often as possible from the first of October

through Christmas — if you have sewing notion "gift ideas" that you could

advertise during this season, you could make a considerable amount of extra

money. Also, these three times of the year is when most of the sewing gets done

as the seasons change and then at Christmas when people make Christmas gifts as

well as clothing for the season.

131
 THE SEWING MACHINE REPAIR MARKET

Nearly every household has a sewing machine. In some homes the machine is
used only for doing alterations and mending rips, tears, etc. In other homes the
sewing machine is used nearly every day. Dry cleaners almost always have one or

two stores that do the alterations for that particular cleaners, which means sewing
machines that are used daily. Most of the large retail clothing stores have an
alteration department for ahciing the dresses, suits, etc. that the customers

purchase, which means sewing machines that are used daily. Hospitals, children's

homes, prisons, are among other places that would have sewing machines in use

nearly every day. Sewing machine repair is a wide open market and one that is

growing by leaps and bounds as mote and more people are beginning to make

clothing for themselves and for their families.

There are 85,000.000 (MILLION) home sewers in this country and the figure is

growing every day! 'flu's docs not take into consideration the other sewing

machines that also need to be cleaned and repaired at schools, hospitals, retail

clothing outlets, dry cleaners, etc.

Use your telephone book and go through the yellow pages looking for schools,

cleaners, etc. thai you KNOW have sewing machines and begin to contact them.

Do up a flyer to hand out to friends, relatives and co-workers telling them about

your new business. We'll cover methods of advertising in depth in the advertising

section. We simply want to impress upon you that sewing machine repair is a

wide open field and the .sooner you get into it the sooner the money will come!

132
 CHARGING FOR SEWING MACHINE REPAIR

The quickest way to find out what the going rate for sewing machine repair iIll
your area is would be to look up "Sewing Machine Repair" in your telephone book
yellow pages and call and ask what they would charge to clean, oil and adjust
whatever kind of sewing machine you've bought at a yard sale that you're going to
practice on. If there's more than one sewing machine repair shop call them too
and ask the same question, It" your telephone book has several other towns in it,
call those people also and get the prices from towns all around you and including
your own town. You can price your sewing machine repair jobs at the same price

or at the beginning perhaps you'll want to go $5.00 under the going rate so if a

customer calls you with the intention of calling others as well in order to get the

best price, yours will be the best price. However, you should keep in mind and be

sure to mention to your callers (and make sure it's in your flyers and

advertisements!) the fact that you pick up and deliver or have "in the home" repair.

This will set you apart from the others and will bring the business to you.

The average sewing machine repair charge runs between $35.00 and $50.00

depending on the area of the country and how much competition there actually is.

it usually takes 1/2 hour to an hour for most repair jobs. However, many of the

simple problems (needle in backwards, etc.) can lake only ten to fifteen minutes.

If this is the case, be sure to do a thorough cleaning and oiling on the machine and

do some trial sewing on the various stitches (zig zag, straight stitch, reverse) to be

sure that is the only thing wrong. Your customer may think you are over charging

133
her if you only stay 1 0 minutes and leave, so we would recommend that you spend

a fillle extra time on the cleaning, etc.

Also, regarding the charging tor your services - many people have a lower opinion

of their own work than others who need the work done. And, we've found that

some sewing machine technicians believe that because they don't have the

overhead their "retail establishment" competitors have (hey should charge about

half the price. These ideas are all wrong! You are a professional at what you are

doing and you need to be paid a good price For what you do. In addition, you are

doing "in the home" repair, which is unheard of these days, so you need to be

compensated for that extra service you provide.

134
 ADVERTISING YOUR SERVICES

How do you get the word out that you are now in the sewing machine repair
business and ready to go out and work?

There are several ways that you can advertise your business. First of all, give out
those business cards to friends and family to inform them and also tell them to
pass the word along to anyone they know that has sewing machines that you can
now work on them.

Mailing flyers to a local area is an excellent way to get the word out in mass. If

you want to try this type of advertising, there are several things you will need to

do. First of all, go to your local Post Office and make arrangements to get a bulk

mail permit. This permit will cost you an initial one-time fee of around $75, and

at the beginning you'll have to pay the annual fee of around $60.00. The one-time

fee is, of course, paid only once when you set up the builk mailing account. The

annual fee is, naturally, paid every year, and the year runs from January 1 through

December 31. So, if, around the middle of October you decide you'd like to do

this type of advertising, determine how many leaflets you're going to mail out to

see if it would be to your benefit to pay the annual fee at that time, and then have

to pay it again in December for the following year.

The good thing about using the bulk mailing is that letters or flyers you send out

will cost you, right now, 22.6 cents each, instead of the regular 32 cents, which is

the first class rate (these rates are subject to change as postal rates may change).

135
With the bulk mail you have to send out a minimum of 200 in each mailing (the
post office will give you instructions and all the necessary items you'll need to
start your mailing), but if you want to get your leaflets out to the public, you'll
probably be sending out more than 200 anyway.

Who will you send your Leaflets to? You can start by going through your phone
book yellow pages and finding every business that you think would have a sewing
machine in use (dry cleaners, hospitals, schools, retail clothing stores, etc.).

One good way of getting the word out to every home in the community would be

to call your local post office and find out their procedure for sending out a bulk

mailing to every person on a particular route. For example, maybe Rural Route 2

has 150 patrons that the mail carrier delivers to every day. A bulk mailing to

everyone on "Route 2", since you don't have all the names, would be done by

typing "Postal Patron" instead of an individual person's name. Take a look at the

mail that you receive and you will find many pieces of mail that are addressed

"Postal Patron". Contact your local post office to get the details on how they want

this type of mailing done. (See the last section of this manual for sample flyers

that were sent out by bulk mail).

There are two general types of advertising that you might want to consider -

classified advertising and display advertising. Both types of advertising have to

be placed in advance. Be sure to check all of your local newspapers and

niaga/.ines for their advertising rates and deadlines. You should make a note of

these deadlines on the annual calendar we talked about earlier. For classified

136
advertising you have to be able to "sell" your service in a few words and make the
ad appealing enough for the consumer to want to pay for your services (for sample
classified ads, see the last section of this manual).

Classified ads are generally short, 15 to 20 words, so you have only a little space
to prove to your prospects that your services are going to be useful to them.

You need to zero in on the customer's hot buttons. What is good about your

business that will make a customer call you? Tell the customer why your service

is better. Include "Free pick up and delivery" or "In the home repair". Let the

customers know what sets you apart from the others.

A good ad, whether a classified or display, has four key elements: a) a description

of what you are selling, b) a sales pitch, c) a premium incentive, and d) a response

vehicle.

a) Description of the service. You will have to motivate people of the

value of your service to them.

b) The sales pitch. A good sales pitch gets the prospect involved at once.

Just as we talked about earlier, use the catchy words. A few persuasive words can

motivate people to come to you, if used correctly in the course of your

advertisement.

137
 c) Premium incentive. A good classified ad will give the reader a reason to

contact you. What can you do for the prospect if he answers your ad
immediately? Maybe you have some free gift (lint brush, etc.) or a couple of
dollars off for the new customers.

d) Response vehicle. This is simply a return address or phone number to

which they may come see you or call you.

Your sewing machine repair classified ad should be placed under the heading of

"Services" if your newspaper has that column heading. Look through the headings

that are available to see which category your ad would fit best.

One side note about classified advertising. Usually small local newspapers will

not be very expensive For your classified ads. Or if you have a "Shopper" "Thrifty

Nickel" "Penny Saver" type of paper, you may want to try putting your classified

ad there. It has been our experience that people will usually place one classified

ad and if they don't gel Hooded with phone calls they never advertise again. This

is the WRONG attitude! Classified advertising (and advertising in general) is

NOT a one-time thing! It is those people who continue to run the ads that get the

business. For example, your first ad might not have resulted in a single sewing

machine repair job. However, the second or third time the same ad comes out and

people keep seeing it, they'll start thinking "This person must be having good

results with this ad and must have a thriving business - think I'll go ahead and get

my sewing machine repaired". Some weeks you may not get any calls, but other

weeks you might get 5 or 10 calls for sewing machine repair jobs. You never

138
know who might just be reading the paper that needs the service you offer. So our

advice to you is to keep tiie classified ad running.

Display ads are the big picture ads you see in every magazine and newspaper you

pick up. These ads are costly, but vary in price from one periodical to another.

Again, ask your local newspaper office for a "media kit", which will give you all

the information you'll need to know about prices, sizes of ads, deadlines, etc.

Look through the newspaper to see the way various ads are laid out and what all is

said in the display ads. This might be the time you could go for a "coupon" ad - a

small display ad in which you would give a discount on the sewing machine repair

job if they have the "coupon" from the newspaper. (See the back section of the

manual for sample display ads).

There is money to be made in both display and classified advertising, but you have

to keep accurate records to make sure you are getting enough business to pay for

the cost of the ad. If you find an ad that doesn't pay off, you might try re-writing

the ad, sometimes just a different choice of words makes all the difference. Trial

and error will teach you some big lessons, but at least if you learn from them, you

will have accomplished something.

Other methods of advertising you can use are simply handing out leaflets or flyers

to people, tack a flyer to bulletin boards at grocery stores, fabric stores, etc., (see

the sample copy of a flyer in the back section of this manual). Flyers and leaflets

are inexpensive to make and the more people you hand them out to the more

business you will get. In addition, instead of mailing a flyer to the schools,

139
hospitals, dry cleaners, you could spend a day or two visiting those places and

personally hand them the leaflet or flyer and one of your business cards. You'll

find thai this "personal" touch can bring in a tremendous amount of business and

most likely will be immediate business because some of those places you visit will

have a sewing machine with a problem or one that needs cleaning, oiling and

adjustment. You can then just set a time the next day or whenever is convenient

with the customer so that you can come back and work on the machine. Be sure to

let all of the commercial customers (schools, cleaners, etc.) know that you will

COME TO THEM and that there is not an extra charge for that service. You may

have several customers lined up before you go back home! Don't stop with just

one or two businesses - take the listing that you made from the yellow pages of

your lelphonc book and make a committment to contact EVERY one of them. If

there are too many for one day, set aside one day each week to call on prospective

sewing machine repair customers until you have contacted all of them. You will

be surprised and pleased at how many of them will be THRILLED with the fact

that you will do the sewing machine servicing at their location. This will save

much time for the business owner — the owner must find someone to take the

sewing machine to a shop, then be without it for a week or two or three, and then

find someone else to go pick it up. You will be a lifesaver for the business

owners with the service that you offer! You may also just be able to make a

considerable amount of extra money with the sewing supplies that you have with

you. White and black thread, as well as other basic colors, and seam rippers, lint

brushes, etc., will gladly be purchased by the business owner! Again, you arc

saving them a lot of time because they don't have to send someone to the store to

get supplies. We've mentioned il before and we'll mention it again, the basic

140
sewing supplies and notions that you have on hand can mean an extra $5.00 to

$50.00 on each sewing machine repair job you go out on.

'The main thing to remember in your own business is not to give up. You may

make many mistakes at the beginning, and we all have done that, you just need to

learn from them i\nd go on. The sewing machine repair business is an extremely

profitable business, whether you decide to wovk it part time or full time.

Good luck in your new business venture1.

141
 IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER

[n this book, the author and publisher have tried to get you enthused about starting

your own business. We have talked about the sewing machine repair business

which we believe to have good profit potential for the beginning entrepreneur.

However, you must realize that the possibility of failure is a fact of life in the

business world. There is no business on this earth where everybody succeeds (if

there were such a business, every person in America would immediately quit their

current job and go into that business).

There arc many, many variables, any one of which could make your business

venture show little or no profit. Your own initiative and desire will play the

greatest part in whether your business will be a success. We remind you that

nothing printed in this book should be interpreted as a guarantee, on the part ofthe

author or the publisher, that your business will be profitable.

All ofthe information in this book reflects the opinions ofthe author. While we

believe that the information is accurate as ofthe date of printing, it is possible that

there arc errors of omission.

This book is not intended to give legal or financial advice, since neither the author

nor the publishers are accountants or attorneys. Whenever you need such advice,

you must consult a professional lawyer or accountant, or both.

142
 CHECKLIST
FOR
STARTING
YOUR
SEWING MACHINE
REPAIR BUSINESS

143
The "checklist for starling your sewing machine repair business" is simply a guide

for you to follow as you get your business up and running. The purpose of this

section is to give you a "handle" on your business venture. Many times in a new

business the small things arc overlooked, and every detail, whether large or small

is important to a profitable business.

By following this guide the new business can be started in a systematic way. This

guide is a scries of questions that you may answer so that you'll know at a glance

what has been done and what needs to be done yet. Answer the questions in your

own unique way and according to your needs now. The various subjects are listed

in alphabetical order - you may re-arrange them if you wish.

144
 ADVERTISING

1. Do you have a budget for advertising?

2. I lave you decided which type of advertising to do first - newspaper advertising

or mailing out flyers?

3. Have you visited several printers and checked prices on printing? (Check with

several and ask the same questions of each of them - how long until you'd get your

finished printing, prices, will they help you choose paper colors or give

suggestions to make your tlyers better?)

4. Have you made arrangements to have your business cards made? (This is one

of the first things you need to do).

5. Have you contacted your local Post Office to get information about bulk

mailing? They have packages of information already made up to give to

individuals who are thinking about doing this type of mailing for advertising

purposes.

6. Have you checked with fabric stores and general merchandise stores to see if

you can put a full or half page flyer on a bulletin board or wall where their

customers can see it?

145
 BUSINESS NAME

1. Have you avoided the trite and n_oi called your business "Your Name

Enterprises?"

2. Is your name selection appropriate to your business? Will potential customers

know what type of business you're actually in? ("Jim's Repairs" tells the customer

nothing, whereas "Jim's .Sewing Machine Repair" tells the whole story!)

3. Is your name short enough that it will help cut costs in the Classified Ads that

you will be placing ("Jim's Sewing Machine Repair" is certainly fewer words than

"Jim's Sewing Machine Repair and Sewing Notion Supplier", even though you do

sell sewing notions. Save the Sewing Notion Supplier for flyers and display ads

where the words are not charged individually, like they are in Classified Ads.

4. Have you tried out your name with others (family, friends and business

associates) before going to the printer for letterhead and business cards?

5. Will ilie name you select lend itself to a distinctive logo, if you choose to use a

logo?

6. Add up the costs of using your selected name for a year (ads, business cards,

dyers, etc.) then consider how much it will cost you to change it. Are you ready

to live with it or risk that extra expense? Also, changing names several times is

lo your regular customers - what is your name Tl IIS week?

146
 CLASSIFIED ADS

1. Have you written tile ad out in full? (Don't worry about the word count now,

but get all the benefits to the reader down on paper. Benefits include FREE pick

up and delivery in home repair, etc.)

2. Does your ad contain the AIDA, or similiar principle for all good advertising --

Attention, Interest, Desire and Action?

3. Did you begin your ad with a benefit to the reader?

4. Have you started your ad with the popular "pulling power" words "How to..."

or with an active verb, such as "Get11, "Save", "Make", etc? The most powerful

word of all - "FREE", can certainly be used in this home based business of sewing

machine repair! "FREE pick up and delivery" — "In the home repair AT NO

EXTRA CHARGE".

5. Is your name and address (and phone) complete and correct?

6. If you get a call tomorrow, are you ready to set the appointment and go?

147
 COMPANY

1. (low have you organized your company? Have you compared the advantages

and disadvantages of single proprietorship, partnership, corporation?

2. Have you talked with your accountant about the tax advantages and

disadvantages for ihe different methods of organizing your business?

3. 1 lave you gone to the local Internal Revenue Service or your accountant to pick

up a copy of a "Schedule C" so you can become familiar with all the various types

of expenses that are allowed by the Internal Revenue Service and deductions that

you can make?

4. Mave you picked up a pocket size calendar that you'll need to keep in your

vehicle to note mileage each day and also make a notation of where you went

("Mary Smith - Sewing Machine Repair" or "Post Office - mail flyers")?

5. Have you thought about some extra items you'd like to sell to your sewing

machine repair customers - needles, lint brushes, scissors, thread, etc.? Have you

called Brewers Sewing Supplies to get information on setting up an account with

them so you will be able to purchase notions wholesale then sell them to your

customers at the retail price?

(48
 COMPLAINTS

1. liven though the customer is not always right, do you treat your customers as
you would like to be treated?

2. Do you take care of complaints quickly? (Prompt response is more than half of

the solution to the complaint. If you repair a sewing machine today and in two

days the customer calls back with the same problem, she may be doing something

that is causing the problem to be repeated. For example, if you went out and the

needle was in backwards and you fixed it, cleaned and oiled the machine, etc. and

when you left everything was working great. If the lady wasn't aware that she

wasn't putting the needle in right, she might change the needle and have the same

problem all over again. Your response should be to go back and check out the

problem - at no charge - and show the customer how to properly put the new

needle into the machine. This will satisfy the customer and at the same time

prevent future minor problems of this type for this customer.)

149
 .R PAYMENT

1. Arc you aware of the problems that could arise if you go with a "Bill Me"
payment method'? (Larger accounts such as hospitals, schools, dry cleaners, etc.

would work very well on a "bill at the end of the month - clue by the 15th of the
following month" schedule; however, it is our opinion that individual customers

should "pay when the job is completed". We've found that customers expect to

pay when the machine is repaired and rarely will anyone ask about being billed.)

2. Do you accept checks? We've found that very few checks bounce, but if you're

not sure on new customers, you can always go straight to the customer's bank and

cash it immediately instead of running it through your own bank.

3. Do you offer credit card .service? This is not a "must" and will not slow down

your business. However, in some instances, if you are selling higher ticket items

like a new sewing machine, or if someone wants to purchase a large amount of

sewing notions they may ask if you take cither Visa or MasterCard. At the

beginning we would advise you lo just stick with cash and checks for (he sewing

machine repairs and sewing notions that you sell.

150
1. Does your ad use a simple headline that promises an immediate benefit to the
reader?

2. Is your copy (wording within the display ad) lively and oriented to the reader?

3. Does your ad tell why your service is unique and why the customer should give

you a call?

4. Have you given the price? Are your going to give them a "Special Price" or a

"coupon" that gives a discount off the regular price?

5. Have you listed the customer benefits? (Free Pick Up and Delivery...In Home

Repair Service).

6. Mave you ended your ad with your company name, address and phone number?

How can anyone contact you if you forget to put your phone number in the ad?

151
 PRICING?

1. How do you arrive at the price for your sewing machine repair service?

2. Are yoct familiar with the competition's pricing? 1 lave you called around to see

that the "retail establishment" sewing machine repair stores are charging?

3. Are you familiar enough with the psychology of pricing that you know that a

cut-rate price does not always mean a jump in sales? (After all, you're offering

benefits that the "retail establishments" cannot offer -- in home service; pick up

and delivery; and many times same day service.

152
 RECORDS

1. Have you set up a system for keeping full and accurate records of your

customers? I lave you purchased a card file to indicate dates of service of each of

your customers so you'll be able to send out your "Annual Check Up" notice to

each of the customers.

2. Do you have a record of the results of your mailings of flyers — how many

people responded and how many sewing machine repair jobs did you get?

3. Are you keeping track of the classified ads?

4. If you've placed your business in the yellow pages of the phone book (and we

highly recommend that you do since that's the first place someone would look

when they have problems with their machine!), are you making a note on the

customer record card that she got your name from the phone book?

5. Do you know the months that are best for major advertisements of your

service? (End of winter for Spring sewing; May for Summer sewing; August for

Back to school sewing; and October/November for Holiday sewing).

153
 REFERRALS

[. Do you ask your customers to refer you to their friends and co-workers? Have

you given them business cards to pass out?

2. Do you suggest additional purchases when you are doing a sewing machine

repair job -- let the customer see your selection of notions for sale. If you don't

mention it, she won't even know you have something else available for her to buy.

154
 SKWINK NOTION PRODUCTS

1. Have you made a decision whether to offer sewing notions to your sewing

machine repair customers?

2. Have you contacted sewing notion suppliers (Brewer's etc.) For inibrmation on

setting up accounts with them?

3. Have you made a listing from the section "The Sewing Room11 of various items

you might want to offer to your customers? You might want to start out with just

a few items, then expand as your business grows.

155
 SAMPLE
FORMS
AND
ADVERTISEMENTS

156
 SAMPLE BUSINESS CARD
FOR SEWING MACHINE REPAIR

You may not know enough about vacuum cleaner repair to add that item to your

business card. Your card may simply read " Sewing Machine

Repair".

EXPRESS
Sewing Machine & Vacuum Repair

Reuben O. Doyle

7267 Mobile Highway (904) 944-2960

Pensacola, FL 32526 Free Pickup & Delivery

157
 SAMPLE WORK ORDER FORM
(Fill out when calls come in)

7267 Moble Hwy.

Pensacola, FL 32526

(904) 944-2960

Sewing Machine b Yocnnm Repair

Name
Address.

Phone

Pickup Date: .Time:

Delivery Date;, Time;

Work Description;

Special Instructions;.

Amount Due:
All bills due and payable upon rcccipl, unless otherwise arranged.

Signature: X_

FREE Pickup & Delivery!

158
 7267 Mobile Highway
Pensacola, FL 32526
(904) 944-2960
ctiK A vacm air

159
Special! Sewing Machine
Tune-up
* Cleaned & oiled * Check & adjust tension
* Check and adjust timing * Check motor
* Check wiring * Adjust belts
* Inspect nil moving parts * FREE New needle
* Parts extra

»» 1" >M"d"'""""'"

Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & Delivery
or In-Home Repair Service!
160
SAMPLE DISPLAY ADVERTISEMENTS
OR MINI-FLYERS TO HAND OUT

FREE Pickup & Delivery!

or In-Home Repair Service

(904) 944-2960
Mon. - Fri. 8 am to 6 pm
Sat. 9 am to 5 pm

Special! Sewing Machine

Cleaned & Oiled
Regular $40
Special $28 (save $12)
No pans included.

Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & Delivery
or In-Home Repair Service!

161
Sewing Sewing'IucHk ft Yacm itepair
Special! Sewing Machine Special! Sewing Machine
Cleaned & Oiled
Cleaned & Oiled
Regular $40 Regular $40

Special $28 (save $12) Special $28 (save $12)

No parts included.
NopntLs included.

Call 944-2960 Now! Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & D-I!very
FREE Pickup & Delivery
or
or In-Home Repair Service!

Sewing mtuie ft Vacnua Kepair

Special! Sewing Machine

& Oiled
Cleaned & Oiled

Regular $40 Regular $40

Special $28 (save $12) Special $28 (save $12)

No parts included.
No parts included.

Call 944-2960 Now! Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & Delivery FREE Pickup & Delivery
or In-Home Repair Service! or In-Home Repair Service!

uiiK & Vacm air

Special! Sewing Machine Special! Sewing Machine
Cleaned & Oiled Cleaned & Oiled
Regular $40 Regular $40

Special $28 (save $12) Special $28 (save $12)

No parts Included. No pans included.

Call 944-2960 Now! Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & Delivery FREE Pickup & Delivery
or Iit-IIonic Repair Service! or In-Home Repair Service!
162 ^■■■■■■■■■■iia
VYiiv

Quality Sewing Machine & Vacuum

Repair - Fast!
When your repairs have to be done quickly, by a
professional, call Express! You get quality work
and service, and you get them/izyr.

Low Prices
Since sewing machine and vacuum repairs are
all we do, and we do so much of it, we can afford
to give you much better deals and price cuts!
Check us out and see.

FREE Pickup & Delivery!

Get Express quality repairs without even leaving
yourhomeoroffice. Justcallus. Wepickupand
deliver right to your door. Or try our special In-
Home Repair Service.

Express Charge Account

With a business charge account at Express, you
just sign for your finished work and we invoice
you monthly.

(904) 944-2960
Mon. - Fri. 8am - 6pm
Sat. 9am - 5pm
Sewing Kddiliie & Vdeuam' Repair
7267 Mobile Highway FREE Pickup & Delivery
Pensacola, FL 32526
(904)944-2960
or In-Home Service
 i
i
i
i
i
i
i

Special! Sewing Machine

Tune-up
* Cleaned & oiled * Check & adjust (elision
* Check and adjust timing * Cheek motor
* Check wiring * Adjust bells
* Inspect all moving pails * FREE New needle
* Parts extra

ve $12)

Call 944-2960 Now!

FREE Pickup & Delivery
or In-Home Repair Service!
164
 SAMPLE POSTCARD
(To use for Annual Check-Up Time)

EXPRESS SEWING MACHINE REPAIR

7267 MOBILE HWY Place
Stamp
PBNSACOLA, PL 32526
Here

IT'S THAT TIME OF YEAR AGAIN!!!

Our records indicate that it is time for the annual denning and tune-up for your sewing
machine.

1 laving your sewing niacliine cleaned and tuned up annually by a professional sewing
machine technician will add YEARS to the life of your machine, ill addition to helping
prevent breakdowns in the middle of your biggest sewing project.

Ciive us a call to schedule your annual cleaning and tune-up.

REGULAR SEWING MACHINE REPAIR - $40.00

ANNUAL TUNE-UP SPECIAL - $28.00

SAVE SI2 AND KEEP THAT SKWINC MAC MINK MUMMING!

EXPRESS SEWING MACHINE REPAIR - (904) 944-2960

165
 SAMPLE CUSTOMER SERVICE RECORD
CARD

Customer Service Record

Date

Customer Name

Sink1. Zip.
City

Phono H (wL( I

Profession

Spouse's Name 'rafession

Children

Notes:..

Products Purchased

Date Product Quantity Total Retail

166
 1
SAMPLE POCKET CALENDAR DAILY ENTRIES

/.PUIl
Foeis mo stubborn
1 - Al Alt! [ESAGf
.■ .J 1 \ 1. 1 6

APRIL » 111 11
o W IB
IJ
!■>
11 II
J!l Vt
IV
/)
. /J ^S JL .1 M -■'

MONDAY
3 THURSDAY

TUESDAY FRIDAY
\IDAY "7
4
. 3 - U*

\f\

WEDNESDAY SATURDAY
5

SUNDAY
Palm Sunday
9
 WHOLESALE SUPPLIERS

Following are a few wholesale suppliers you may want to contact and set up

accounts with, in order to get office supplies, sewing notions and minor sewing

machine parts (tensions, bobbins, etc.) at wholesale prices.

VIKING OFFICE PRODUCTS

POBox 19085
Jacksonville, FL 32245
(800)421-1222

QUILL OFFICE PRODUCTS

P O Box 94080
Palatine, 1L 60094-4080
(800)789-1331

BREWER SEWING SUPPLIES

3800 W. 42nd St
Chicago, IL 60632
(800)444-31 11

NATIONAL THREAD & SUPPLY CORP

695 Red Oak Rd
Stockbridge.GA 30281
(800)331-7600

168
NOTES BLINDSTiTCH/HEMMING MACHINES

As with the sewing machine and sergers, the blind-

stitch/hemrning machine plays an important role in our
sewing operations. Those who do a lot of alterations or
make enough clothes to have the need of a hemming
machine also nzed to be aware of adjustments they can do
to keep the machine humming. The following listing of
adjustments and diagrams will tell you how to take care of
certain problems. Keep in mind that you may never have
to make some of the adjustments that are detailed, but in
case the need arises, help is at your fingertips.

A. Positioning the needle clamp:

L Insert the needle in the clamp and loosen screw

"A" to permit adjustment of lever "B" (Fig. HEM-1).

Fig. HEM-1

169
 2. Adjust lever "B" so the eye of the needle comes NOTES
up past the needle slot in the pressure foot assembly, 1/32"
past the edge at its highest position.

3. Secure screw "A" and be sure the needle lever

didn't rotate on its axis around the shaft. If it did rotate, it
will cause the needle to be off-center in the groove on the
shoe. Rotate the handwhcel by hand to insure that the
needle is centered in the groove, [f it is not centered,
loosen the screw and center, then tighten the screw.

B. Looper Adjustments:

1. Rotate the handwheel until the loopcr is passing

over the needle on the right side of its travel (Fig.
HEIYI-2).

Fig.HEM-2

170
NOTES The clearance of the looper above the needle should
be 0.5 mm, or the thickness of a sheet of paper as it passes
over the needle (Item "C", Fig. IIEM-2).

3. The long point of the looper should pass behind

the eye of the needle by 2.4 mm (or 3/32") as indicated by
Item "1", Fig. I1EM-2.

4. NOTE: If the looper passes over the needle too

close to the needle's eye or too far behind (or away from)
the needle eye, the looper rod (hem "P" Fig. HEM-3)
may need to be adjusted.

Fig. HEM-3

T S
—' I 'vi t

A B
D
1

5. The looper rod length should be 4" to 4 1/32" as

indicated in Fig. HEM-3.

6. To adjust the looper rod, loosen screw "N" and

nut "M" (Fig. HEM-3). Also loosen set screw "1" and
remove pin "O". The looper rod fork can be rotated
clockwise to shorten ov counter-clockwise to lengthen.
When you rotate either clockwise or counter-clockwise
over a half turn, you must rotate at least one complete turn

171
either way. Why? If you only rotate half of a turn, screw NOTES
"N" will be inaccessible and you will not be able to tighten
the screws. Check (his out as you adjust

7. Reverse the above procedures to re-asscmble.

CAUTION: DO NOT tighten screw "N" too tight - only
snug. If you over tighten screw"N", the ears where they
are located may break or crack.

8. If the looper touches the needle or presser foot at

Hem "G" Fig. HEM-2, loosen screw "11" and use a
screwdriver in the slot to open a little (Item "J"), If the
looper is striking the needle, rotate "J" clockwise.

If the looper is too far above the needle, rotate Item

ti in
.1" counter-clockwise (Fig. 1IFJV1-2).

9. If the looper touches the presser foot or the

needle at Item "K" and the long prong of the looper at Item
"L", rotate the eccentric block (Item M" clockwise (Fig
HEIVM).

Fig. HEIVM

172
NOTES 10. If the looper is touching at Item "K" (Fig.
HEM-4) and the needle is touching the short prong of the
looper at Item "L", you must loosen nut "M" and
screws"N" (Fig. HEM-3). As you rotate the (ooper rod
downward, this will clear ihe short prong of your looper at
Item "L" and raise the looper at Item "K" (Fig. 1JKM-4).

11. The adjustment for the looper to clear the

chain-off pin "Q" (Fig. IIEM-4) and presser fool at Hem
"R" can be done by rotating the eccentric block (Item "J"
Fig. HEM-2) either left or right to give you the desired
clearance. You have to loosen Hem "H" to adjust as
needed (Fig. HEM-2).

12. Be sure (he looper rod carrier pin (Item "S"

Fig. UEM-3) is Hush gainst the looper rod carrier (Item
•T") and does not have any play left or right. Loosen
screw "H" to adjust as required and then tighten screw "H"
when finished (Fig. HEM-2).

C. Needle guide

Fig. HEM-5
 If the needle guide (Item "U" Fig. IIEM-5 insert) NOTES
becomes grooved or broken, remove and install a new one,
following the instructions on the following page.
When replacing the needle guide, slide "U" of the
needle guide into the undercut neck of screw "V" (Fig.
HEM-5). Insure that the needle guide is pushed all the
way under screw "V". Uokl in this position and tighten the
needle guide screw "V".

D. Feed dog

The feeder dog should be below the presser foot a

maximum of 3/32" at point "W" and a hair less at point
11X" (Fig. HEM-6).

Fig. HEM-6

Be sure the looper clears the feeder at point "Y"

(Fig. HEM-5). Insure that feeder screws "Z" are firmly
tightened.

174
NOTES 1. When the feeder needs replacement, remove the
FRONT feeder attaching screw (Item "Z" Fig. IIEM-5)
and loosen the REAR feeder screw (also Item "Z" Fig.
HEM-5).

Remove the old feed dog and install the new one.
Slide the new feed dog under the rear screw and install the
front screw.

2. Before securing the attaching screws, inspect to

see if the i^od dog is adjusted to the proper clearance. This
distance should be 1/32" or .796 mm below and parallel to
the bottom of the presser foot for light and medium weight
materials (Fig. HEM-7).

Fig. HEM-7

1/32

175
 For heavy materials, the setting should be
NOTES
approximately 1/16" or 1.59 mm below and parallel to the
bottom of the presser foot (Fig. HEM-8).

FiS. IIEM-8

1/16

These distances are intended as a guide and can be

adjusted in accordance with the fabric you are using. Now
rotate the handwheel slowly away from you and check the
looper point (Item "Y" Fig. HEM-5) to see that it also
clears both sides of the feeder slot and the presser foot. If
there is no touching of any parts and the machine operates
smoothly, lighten the feeder screws (Item "Z" Fig.
HEM-5) firmly.

E. Adjustment of the depth and skip stitch:

Fig. HEM-9 u C

F G

176
NOTES I. Rotate the depth knob all the way towards the
(more) side. Loosen lock-nut "D" (Fig. HEM-9) and
adjust the shaft screw "E" so when the needle passes over
the rib, it just touches the rib (Fig. HEM-10 "A" and
"B").

Fig. HEM-10 tfAniHi(lnB11

1?
\ /

• /
\
-'■ ■ ■

TOP VIEW END VIEW

With the machine set on "skip" the needle should

pass over the rib as shown. Notice it will pass over the Hat
portion of the rib "A" shaft every other stitch.

2. Rotate the "depth" knob seven (7) turns to the

(less) side. Adjust the compensating skip stitch screw "A"
to a point where there is a distance of .18" between it and
the push rod "B". (.18" is about the thickness of 5 sheets
of paper). 1 Ioki screw "A" and secure the lock nut.

3. Set the machine to the 2-1 setting (Item "H"

Fig. HEM-9). Insure that the push rod "G" is in contact
with the skip stitch lever throughout its entire stroke in and
out. This will insure a full push on the arm and a well
formed skip stitch.

177
 COMPUTERIZED SEWING MACHINE EXAMPLE

CAUTIONS: When working with electrical and computerized boards, the

following items should be very strictly adhered to:

1. DO NOT touch any metal areas of the printed circuit boards with your
bare hands.
2. DO wear rubber gloves when handling printed circuit boards. You don't
want oils from your hands to compromise the circuits on the boards.
3. INSURE you are grounded before touching electronics boards or
equipment that is to be worked with. This will help to prevent static electricity
from defusing the operation of that unit.
4. DO NOT let any metal object touch any printed circuit boards, such as
screwdrivers, etc., even during your repair procedures.

179
 MECHANICAL PARTS LAYOUT

I. PRINCIPAL MECHANISMS
1. MECHANICAL CHART

Needle position (UP-'DOWN) Shu

Isolation nming pulley Timing pulley / Balance wh-e!

Ecctrwt :ountei f—Upper shall

Thread lake-uo level as*e-"nbiy

Needle bar

Needle bai crank

Heedlc bar cank

Needle bar

Need'* bat
Linear

Driving bell

Main rnolO' un

leed Low- Hornonral l?ed Marri^niai l»sd Low?» nmmg oulley

iaU* Shall r^gulflling mecrianiim

180
POWER TRANSMISSION CHART
Generating mechanism of needle bar, thread (B) Movements of feed dog and shuttle hook
take-up lever and zigzag movements

®
Uooe' lim.nq
Dullev p Uopcr IMtl -

Timing

Hoot arming I vt local SnJ» Cul lo««i

®
Hook O'ming t*quU\at\ I Li"Bii
Feed stand

Stiuille j Fee<J doy

hoo«

181
3. ELECTRONIC PARTS ARRANGEMENT CHART

Sub nunied orcuii board f'<>sser loot wuch Pane1" display Change switch ^ Bobbin wtrujet swtc

Buttonhole (3H) switch

Bulionhol? switch lever

Junction lor Inol

Lamp switch

n OW-v*< Switch

•e'J dog sv.ncii Co'd

4. CONTROL SYSTEM BY MICRO-COMPUTER

The micro-computer being used in Compal Galaxie is 8-bit computer fabricated on a single chip using N-MOS (N-
channel silicon gate MOS process! m dQ pms dual-in-line package with built in 4K byte mask ROM, 96 byte RAM.
oscillator, timer and I/O port. Moreover 1 28K bit mask ROM and 1 6K bit RAM are expanded on external CPU All
function of this machine are fully controlled by this micro-compulef

•CCONTROL SYSTEM CHART>

I T«chom«iff.ytn«iito> ]

Soeed sens

feed *ciuaio'
H Mam

^E^~h
Buirer

Mlin m
Speed wo'y d>i«ng
Oscillator

RAM [ 1 6»C t)itl J

CPU
■ synlhesi
ROM \"K brrel Raw |95

• *eedie coj-iiO'
dev.cel
■cai senio't (Osi'CJi SmJb-cutlet
Rlvt'tl »"'i <1eifCltng jwii LEO.
Bobbin v/mder
Pf.Mf lOD! D LED.
selection deiCCIioq jwil needle ooiii-on
^•;d dog dcJiI IUP/0O-//N) L5
l jiiicn length 7 iegm*ntj I.CD
l
Manual tflC.1
COMIOl iwiC
If" -.e,i
key. Pjllern dijo'a
snqe Jwil
i eonc 3lle
182
 5. THE FUNCTION OF MICRO-COMPUTER (MAL-WARNING VOICE)

CPU being used in this machine is supervising the kind of selected pauern. position of presser foot, feed dog and
buttonhole lever, state of bobbin-winding. Start/siop switch, reverse switch, etc. If the customer operates the
m3chme erroneously, the error is pointed out by mal-warning voice.

The output of voice made byvoice synthetic system is PARC OR way which consists of 2 pcs of P-MOS LSI Oneisrnask
ROM which stores information digitally analysed for the output voice, of which mernory capacity is 12BKbit.Theoiher
is acting synthesis of the voice according to the information from former ROM and CPU output. The ma I-warning voice
contains 10 messages in total whtch are as follows:
I Please lower presser foot lever.
2. Please change position of red knob to right io raise feed dog
3 Please change position of red knob to left to lower feed dog.
4. Please lower blue lever.
5 Please raise blue lever.
6 Reverse stitch cannot be obtained using this pattern.
7. Memory capacity full Please check instruction book.
B- Please check instruction book
9 This pattern combination is noi acceptable Refer to instruction book.
10. Please use a foot controller-

i. MAIN MOTOR CONTROL

main motor for sewing machine is required to have slable revolution from low speed to high speed agamst load
negation and temperature change. To fully comply with this requirement, this Compel Galaxie is adopting
Dltage DC. motor and PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) by transistors

'. LINEAR ACTUATOR CONTROL (PATTERN GENERATING DEVICE)

(LINEAR ACTUATOR CONTROL BLOCK CHART)

Pauerr\ selection Diflarennal Needle ba' moving

SwilcH ?£& A"'°« amohfiei device
i i

VHOC'lT
Itta : j . i
OillerenliSlor Posnion detector

CPU Position Ieed-b3ck

J
Deferential
0/A convener Drrwnj Citcutt Fffed *&gulanng device
—1 amplifier

I
It*tf Bit"
Oillerent'caioi Position oeiectoi

I
I Position lee<J- bacl 1

183
II. DISASSEMBLING & REASSEMBLING

1. OUTER PARTS

1. Raise pressure regulating lever and remove face plnie by loosening a screw.
2. Remove bobbin winder cover by loosening a screw.
3. Remove front cover by loosening three screws.
4. Remove bed cover by loosening two screws.
5. Remove extension plaie by loosening two screws.
6. Remove manual regulator cover by using screw driver.
7. Remove plug case by loosening a screw.

184
 8. Remove stop ring then remove zigzag connecting link
9. Loosen a screw on eccentric counter weight.
10. Lower pressure regulating lever.
1 1. & 12. Remove pressure regulating mechanism by loosening two screws.

/ i .;,■." —•r.iif ,„)«.; 'I -I 1 :: ■• •'-■■;

3. Remove power supply base plate cover

4 Disconnect power supply switch
connector A and transformer
connector B

185
1 5. Remove plug case by loosening screw.
1 6. Remove cord reel unit by loosening three screws.

1 7. Loosen a screw.
1 8. Loosen a screw.
1 9. Remove a eccentric shaft from lower shaft holder (Right)
20. Remove feed mechanism unit by loosening five screws
(1. Remove zigzag connecting lever by loosening a stud screw.
!2.-a Remove stop ring then remove zigzag connecting link, as done at step 8.
-b Remove transformer by loosening two screws
■c Remove fixing plate by loosening a screw
■d Remove supporting plate by loosening a screw.
?3. Remove linear actuator by loosening two screws.

Zigtig connecting link

Reassembling
24. Deleimine Jhe position to In feed mechanism unit by a pin. of which diameter is 6 mm.
25 Fit feed mechanism unit by using five screws
26 Change the position of red knob to left to lower feed dog and make sure the clearance between stud plate and
vertical arm is more than 0 5 mm.
27. Tighten the stud plate by a screw.
28. Insert the eccentric shaft into lower shah holder (Right)
29 Tighten tentatively.

Stud plait
30. Meet the convex portions of linear actuator gear and feed regulator gear in face each other then tighten m|wo
screws making sure the clearance between both gears is 0.03 ~ 0.04 mm.
3 1 -a Fit the Z'gzag connecting link to vertical arm by a stud screw.
-b Attach supporting plate to the linear actuator,
-c Attach fixing pl3te onto supporting p)aie in 3 screw making the lower part of the fixing pj^re ho'd the nght
bushing of lower shaft holder.
-d Tighten the supporting plate by a screw.
-9 Fix transformer. Zigzag connecnng [eve*

Slut) ICftv.

Lm#ar aciuaior gear

Feed
regulating gear

32. Fit the pressure mechanism unit to vertical arm mcerting eccentric counter weight into upper shaft
33. Tighten pressure mechanism unit in two screws. At thai lime tighten upper screw slightly and after adjusting the
top of needle drop to the cenier of needle hole, tighten iwo screws securely.
34. Assemble zigzag connecting link to zigzag connecting lever and attach stop ring together with thermoplasiic
washer.
35. Tighien a screw tentatively.
36. Lower the needle until its lowesi position by turning balance wheel
3 7. Turn ihe balance wheel so lhai the base line oflower timing pulley is
between eccenu.c counter we.gh, and upper Shah bushing * Q^'J
38. Tighten the screw of eccentric counter weight securely.

Eccenmc counier wgi

0-0 2 mm

O mrn ,.-

39. Loosen a screw.

40 Lower the needle from its highest position by 21.4 mm turning balance wheel forward

Aim portron
\

[ | \ 1 .

b
; 1214 mm

Needle bar jiand

J
|~*Weedle bar @'

* : The highest poinion ol needle hs<

o The nine mat brake is released
(The brakt i> releajed at ihis pomi)
■b = a + 21 4 mm

A 1 Make sure the clearance between feed regulator and brake gum is 0 ~ 0 05 mm by turning eccentric shaft.
42. Tighten the screw
43. Raisetheneedlelromits lowest position by 15.2 mm turning balance wheel forward (Brake operation starting
pomi)
44. Make sure Ihe brake is properly operaied to leed regulator.

189
 1

On the way
highest oomt needle batjowsring needle bar raising!

a : Measurement on Ihe needle ba' highesr DOin

c = a + r 5* 2 mm

4 5. Position rotation shutter so that it can cross rotation sensor when needle >s posinonedat 22.9 mm tower than its
highest position. Then position N.P. shutter so that it can cross N.P sensor when the clearance between thread
take-up lever and the nb of thread guard is about 0 mm (This is temporary adjustment and make final adjustment
later. Refer 10 page 34.)

1
|

1 22.9 mm
t
I
1 ■

Posmoo o' roiaiion ihuiw

The measure
ment should b?
0 mm

ol M P

190
46 Connect main powtii switch connector A and transformer connector B.
47 Fii (he power supply circuit board.
48. Fit cord reel unit by tightening three screws.
49. Fit plug case by tightening a screw.

50 Fit plug case by tightening a screw.

51 Fit extension plate with two screws
52. Fit bed cover with two screws.
53. Fit front cover with two screws.
54 Fit bobbin winder then tighten a screw.
55. Fit a face plate with a screw.
56 Fit a manual stitch control switch cover
2. CORD REEL UNIT

(How to remove)
1. Loosen 3 screws and remove those screws holding cord
reel base so thai it does not turn. Turn cord ree) base
counterclockwise about 4 — 5 times until it is free from the
tension of spsra! spring.
2. Remove cord reel wheel from cord reel cover.
(How to fit)
3. Put cord reel washer on cord reel wheel.
4. Put cord reel wheel in cord reel case.
5. Make sure that cord goes as far as possible by moving the
notching lever toward outside using screw driver.
Cord tee\ cast
6. Turn cord reel base counterclockwise about 4-5 times
and hold it not to turn clockwise in the tension of spiral
spring.
7. Fit cord reel base wiih 3 screws.

3. REMOVING PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARDS

LEAD WIRES ARRANGEMENT
dth

5. REMOVING TRANSPARENCY DISPLAY PLATE

(Tha order of disassembling)

1. Loosen a screw then remove a slop ring and a sprino
2. Remove pattern change lever.
3. Loosen 2 screws.
4. Remove transparency display plate.
(The order of reassembling)
Proceed in reverse order ol disassembling. Make sure 10 fit
spring as illustrated.

193
Fitting position of micro-switch
1. Make sure ihe micro-switch actuator is in line with micro -
switch body. Make sure LED 15 lighted when micro-switch
lead wire is connecled to primed circuit board and pattern n display change I
change lever is moved to fight.
2. Make sure micro-switch actuator is not contacted with
pattern change lever when patiern change lever is moved
10 left. Make sure LEO continues to light to led direction
when micro-switch is connected to printed circuit board
and pattern change lever is moved to left then the pattern
selection switch (Left) is keeping depressed

m display cfungt

06 HO

194
 POSITION OF SHUTTLE HOOK

en zigzag stitch is selected and the width is set at >is maximum position.
When needle raises from its lowest position by 4.0~- 4.3 mm. the hook point should meet with the side oi the needle
it left needle movement.
The clearance between the hook and needle is less than 0.1 mm and never touch each other.

UUSTMENT
Set the machine 3t zigzag pattern
Set zigzag width at its maximum position
Loosen three screws
Adiust the hook to achieve above two slandard.
Tighten the screws.
>TE
ike sure two standard are achieved if you loosen the screws.

irk

i ■ The lowest position ol needle bar

): The measu'emeni when hook point
meet with ihe jide o' needle 4 0-d 3 mm
la-4 0-4-4 3)

2. HEIGHT OF NEEDLE BAR

STANDARD
When the zigzag stitch is selected and the width is set ai us maximum posiiion.
1. The clearance between the upper top ol needle eye and bottom top of hook is 0.4 — 1.0 mm when needle and hook
meet ai left needle position

ADJUSTMENT
1 Set the machine at zigzag pattern.
2. Set the zigzag width at us maximum position and seek the position that needle meets with hook point by turning the
balance wheel
3 Loosen ihe screw.
4 Move the needle bar up or down io obtain correct position
5. Tighten the screw.
NOTE
Care should be taken when you adjust i^e needle bar. the needle bar easily lu/ns and ii lightened incorrectly, it might
be caused the trouble ol twin needle sewing

^
o a c i^i ' '
□
3. BOBBIN CASE HOLDER BRACKET 4. HEIGHT OF PRESSER BAR

STANDARD STANDARD
1. The clearance between the bracket 3nd hook is 0.5 "• 0.7 1. The clearance between presser fool and needle plate is 6.0
mm. ""6.5 mm.

ADJUSTMENT ADJUSTMENT
1. Select zigzag pattern and set zigzag width at "0". I, Raise oresser foot lever.
2. Loosen iwo screws. 2 Loosen screw.
3. Adjust the position of bracket (eight to left or back and 3. Adjust the height of presser bar.
forth). 4 Tighten the screw.
A. Tighten screws. NOTE
Make sure the presser fool and feed dog are in line

o o cm

5. HEIGHT OF FEED DOG

STANDARD
1. The feed dog is higher than needle plate by 0 9 - 1 1 mm
when drop feed is set at up position and it reaches its
highest posiiion.
2. The clearance between the feed dog and needle plate <s
more than 0.3 mm (below) when drop feed is set at down
position and feed dog reaches its highest position.
ADJUSTMENT
1, Set the drop feed at up position.
2. Turn the balance wheel and seek the position that feed dog
reaches its highest position Loosen the set screw and turn
the stud Tighten ihe set screw.

than 0 3 r
6. POSITION OF ROTATION SHUTTER & N.P. (NEEDLE POSITION) SHUTTER
STANDARD
I Disappear the LEO indicating "H" (horizontal) when needle is reached at the position of 22.9 mm lower than its
highest position by turning balance wheel ai test mode
2. In case that needle is sei at us up position, the topol needle is stopped at the position of 8 mm upper than needle
plate also thread lake-up lever is stopped at the position of 14 ± 1 mm upper ihan thread tension bar.

ADJUSTMENT
1. Turn the power supply switch on wuh keeping bolh manual slitch length/width control switches depressed to be
set a test mode.
2. Set the needle at the position of 22.9 mm lower ihan its highest position by turning balance wheel
3. Loosen a hexagon socket screw of rotation shutter.
4. Turn the rotation shutter forth slowly and seek the position that the LEO "H" disappears
5 Tighten the screw.
6. Start sewing and stop it by using start/stop switch.
7. Loosen a hexagon socket screw of N. P shutter.
8. Seek the correct stop position (highest position) of thread take-up lever to meet with above standard by turning
N P shutter forth or back.
*ln case that the shutter turns too soon, thread take-up lever stops before it reaches to its highest position.
In case that the shutter turns too late, thread take-up lever stops after it is over at its highest position
9. Tighten the screw.
10. Check if the adjustment meets with above standard when the needle stops at its up position.

>! Needle

22 9 mm

197
7. BRAKE TIMING FOR FEED REGULATOR
STANDARD
When balance wheel is turned forward, feed regulator is released from the brake at the position that needle is lowered
by 2 I.d mm from its highest position and brake operates again from (he position (hat the needle is raised at 1 5.2mm
until its highest position through its lowest position.

ADJUSTMENT
1. Lower ihe needle by 21.4 mm from its highest position by turning balance wheel.
2. Loosen a screw.
3. Adjust the clearance between leed regulator and brake-gum to be 0 - 0.05 mm by turning eccentric shad.
4. Tighten Ihe screw.
5. Raise the needle by 15.2 mm from its lowest position through its lowest position
6. Make sure that (he brake is properly operated on feed regulator.

0" the way

ne*dle bar is
Ann poilion
Needle bar On the way
highesi point needle bat is lowering

-f1
b

PNeedie bar I-

lovw-si c

s ■ Meedls bai highesi po

c = a + 15 2 mm

8. TENSION OF MOTOR BELT

STANDARD
There should be same slacks (1 ~ 6 mm) when the motor belt 15 |ust pushed (about 200 g pressure.)
ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen two screws.
2 Adjust be)t tension by moving motor holder to meet with
above standard .
3 Tighten the screws.

198
9. TENSION OF TIMING BELT
STANDARD
There should be some slacks (3-5 mm) when ihe liming
be ft is just pushed (abotu 200 g pressure.)
ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen a screw.
2. Adjust the position of idle pulley lo meet with above
standard.
3. Tighten (he screw.

0 r*1'™

10. R.P.M. OF MAIN MOTOR

STANDARD

Speed CD
Control
Lever lllllllHlli ■HIM
■ • •

8OO-85OR.P.M (STRAIGHT) 700-750 R.P M (ZIGZAG)

R.P.M. I00-120R.PM
36O-42OR P.M (MEMORY & PROGRAM PATTERNS)

CAUTION
As each volumes are locked by paint, turn them slighily \o the direction ol rotation and not give any pressure lo the
direction of thrust. After adjustment, make sure to be again locked by paint.

ADJUSTMENT
1. Sei a machine at test mode.
2. Set the speed control lever at its leltesi position (lowest speed position).
3. Start the machine and turn the volume ol VR1 clockwise or counterclockwise so that number o( rotation should be
10O-120R P.M.
4. Set the speed control lever at its nghtest position (highest speed position} and select ihe straight stitch.
5 Start the machine and'turn the volume VF12 clockwise or counterclockwise so that numbers of rotation should be
SOO-85OR P.M
6. Select zigzag stitch.
7. Start the machine and turn the volume VR3 clockwise or counterclockwise so that numbers of rotation should be
700-7508 PM
8 Change to the memory mode and select one ol memory patterns (No 47—67).
9. Start the machine and turn the volume VR4 clockwise or counterclockwise so thai numbers ol rotation should be
38O-42OR PM

199
 © VH9 VRtO

NOTE
1. Each speeds never exceed to the standard.
2. The sewing speed is indicated by 2 digits in digital display window.
Ex. "12" means '"120R.P.M.".

11. NEEDLE STOPPING SPEED

STANDARD
When needle stops at its up position, needle threader can be usable and pass the ihread to thread take-up lever easily
ADJUSTMENT
1. Set the machine at test mode.
2 Set the sewing speed at 1 dOR.P.M. by moving speed control levor.
3. Turn the volume VK5 clockwise until LED indicating (vertical) will be lighted
A. Turn the volume VR5 counterclockwise until the LED will disappear

200
2. CENTERING OF THE NEEDLE

fANDARD
Needle should drop at the center ol needle hole when zigzag pattern is selected with its minimum stitch width.

DJUSTMENT
Set a machine at test mode.
Select the zigzag stitch.
Turn the volume VR10 clockwise or counterclockwise so that needle should drop at the center of needle hole

VR10

®'

13. SETTING OF THE MAXIMUM NEEDLE SWING

STANDARD
1. Needle enters the needle hole balanced when zigzag smch is selected with its maximum stitch width.

ADJUSTMENT
1. Set a machine at test mode.
2. Select zigzag stitch.
3 Set the zigzag width at its maximum position.
4 Turn the volume VR9 clockwise or counterclockwise so that maximum zigzag width should be 6.8-7 0 mm.

VR9

6 8-7 0 mm-

201
14. FORWARD FEEDING AT STRAIGHT STITCHES

STANDARD
1. There should be no feeding when stitch length is set at its minimum position.
2. When setting at straight stitch, 1 1 stitches are sewn in 24 mm.

ADJUSTMENT
1. Set a machine at lest mode.
2. Set the speed control lever at its maximum position.
3. Turn the volume VR-8 clockwise or counterclockwise so that no leeding is obtainable in sewing on paper when
stitch length is set at its minimum position (The paper is noi led at least 5 seconds.)
4. Set the machine at pattern Q .
5. Start this pattern on paper uniil it is finished and adjust to meet with above standard 2 by turning volume VR6
Maximum stitch length should be more than 4 5 mm.

15. LENGTH OF FORWARD AND REVERSE STITCHES FOR SUPER AUTOMATIC

PATTERNS
STANDARD
Make sure to obtain proper length of both forward and reverse stitches to make fine pattern.
ADJUSTMENT
1. Change to memory mode by moving pattern change lever to right.
2. Input following pattern numbers to sew as "EPS" No 04 -f No. I 5 + No. 1 8.
3 Set the length fine adjusting volume on the right side of machine to be horizontal direction.
4. Depress the start/stop button to sew sample.
5. Turn the volume VR7 clockwise or counterclockwise so that reverse stitch meets with forward stitch.
In case that longer reverse stitch is required Turn the volume clockwise.
In case that shorter reverse stitch is required Turn the volume counterclockwise.
 POSITION OF BUTTONHOLE SWITCH LEVER
JDARD
ien buttonhole lever (Blue lever) and presser foot lever
lowered. BHO touches with BH 1.
; legs of buttonhole should be diameter of button plus
switch body
j mm.

JSTMENT
lect buttonhole pattern.
the buitonhole loot and push the top portion of it
ckward as far as it will go.
osen a screw

case lhat the legs a re shorter than i he standard, bend the

11 to be far from BHO.
case that the legs are longer than the standard, bend the
12 to be near BHO.
|hten the screw.

1 2

0 5 mm

f. UPPER TENSION DIAL

ANDARD
The clearance between two discs should be 0 ~ 0.3 mm
when presser foot is lowered and tension dial is set at 0
Spring 15 touched with spring holder and ihe top of thread
release piaie begins to depress on the tension disc B. when
presser foot is lowered and tension dial is set at 8.

JJUSTMENT
Set upper tension dial ai 0.
Lower the presser loot lever
Loosen iwo screws
Adjust the position of thread tension bracket to meet with
above standard 1.
Tighten the screws
Set upper tension dial at 8
Loosen a hexagon socket screw
Adiust the position of spring holder to meet with above
siandard 2.
Tighten the screw.

203
18. THREAD TENSION RELEASE
STANDARD
The clearance beiween two discs should be more than 0.5
mm when presser foot is raised and tension dial is set ai 9.

ADJUSTMENT
1. Set upper tension dial at 9 and raise [he presser loot lever.
2. Adjust the position of thread tension release B to meet with
above standard.
3. Tighten the screw and check if the clearance between two
discs is more than 0. 5 mm by moving presser foot lever up
and down.

19. SIDE-CUTTER ADJUSTMENT {LOCK LEVER POSITION)

STANDARD
When the lock lever is fully pushed down (2 5 — 3.0 kgs). the lower part of lock lever should be positioned within the
red mark.

ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen two screws and take out Ihe upper plate
2. Take out bracket case and attach the side-cutter on the tubular arm.
3. Loosen a screw.

4. Turn the eccentric stud with screw driver and adjust the clearance beiween the lower side of lock lever and side-
cutter to be 3 *** 5 mm.
5. Tighten the screw.
6. Attach the bracket cover and check again.

©'
0. SIDE-CUTTER ADJSUTMENT {LOWER & UPPER KNIVES)
TANDARD
. When side-cutter is out of machine and upper knife holder 5. Move the holder downward and loosen a set screw. Adjust
is a! highest position, both knives meet each other by 0.7 - the clearance between guide axis and holder be 0 mm and
1.2 mm. then tighten the set screw
Lower and upper knives bite each other by 1 5 ~ 2.5 mm
when needle bar moves to its lowest position.

DJUSTMENT
. Remove bracket case by loosening two screws.
Keeping holder at highest position, adjust lower and upper
knives to meet each other by aboul 1.0 mm and set upper
knife temporarily.
Attach the side-cutter to tubular arm and set needle bar al
us lowest position making sure theymeeteach other by 1 5
*- 2.5 mm.
Remove side-cutter from machine and firmly tighten the
upper knile with securing holder.

21. SIDE-CUTTER ADJUSTMENT (UPPER KNIFE DOES NOT WORK)

STANDARD
Upper kmle should work when it is set to machine.
ADJUSTMENT
1. Attach the side-cutter to tubular arm and set the needle bar at its highest position.
2. Loosen a screw.
3. By moving the holder up and down, seek the position that the pin is fitted into guide plate.
4. Tighten the screw.
22. SIDE-CUTTER ADJUSTMETN (ATTACHING GUIDE PLATE A 8t B)
STANDARD
The clearance between guide plate A and upper knife should be 0 mm.
ADJUSTMENT
1. Set the holder at its highest position.
2. Loosen the screws on guide plaie A & 8 and adjust ihe clearance between the guide plate A and upper knife to be 0.
3. Tighten the Screw A & B

Guide plate 8

23. NEEDLE THREADER

1, Needle threader accept only circle marked needle and thread combinations.
2* marked combination is not recommended since it might lead to the breakage of needle threader imperfect
performance.
3 Lower the presser foot when you use needle threader
4. Do not use needle threader when you use twin needle.
5. Nylon transparent thread is applicable in needle # 1 4 — 16.
6. Do not turn the balance wheel when you use needle threader.
7 Do not touch needle threader when machine is running
8. Needle should be located above needle plate (or more than 8 mm for threading.
9 Needle threader dops not work when you use the side-cutter

"""—■*-—_^^ Thread
Meedie "-*-<**.fc
£30 £50 »100 «120

H9 X X X O o 0
£1 1 X X O O o ■

H14 X o O 0 • •

01 6 o o • -

018 • ■ • •

206
 24. NEEDLE THREADER (EXCHANGE)
How to exchange needle threader
t. Remove needle and lower ihe presser tool.
2. Push down needle threader 10 take oui
3. Place new one so thai guide is immediately under the guide
pin.
4. Push needle threader all ihe way up so that guide is placed
in the pm

Take Out

25. NEEDLE THREADER (CHECKING THE HOOK POSITION)

STANDARD
l.The clearance between the top of hook and the top ol
needle eye is 0
2 Threading is capable when needle is locaied higher than 8
mm from the needle plate.
Needle
CHECK
Case A
Hook position is too high
Case B
Hook posmon is ioo Jow. (Hook enters needle eye but it
:atches bottom part ol needle eye.)

Hook

0
v
X
201
26. NEEDLE THREADER (ADJUSTMENT OF HOOK POSITION)

ADJUSTMENT
Case A [Hook pO'nt is too high)
1. Remove (ace plate and loosen the screw.
2. Adjust needle threader slightly down and check the clearance between the top of hook and top of needle eye is zero.
3. Check if par! (a) and par! (6) is in line.
Case B (Hook point is too to-wl
Adjust needle threader slightly up and check the clearance between the top of hook and lop of needle eye is zero
Note
In case part (a) and part (6) is not in line, hook does noi work. Adjust needle threader by loosening the screw.

Needle bat

Needle itmrader

208
ONNECTORS TABLE

'n display connectc

nch length line adimimenl boa'd

SiaM/iioo & leve'sa nuch connecioi

Miin D'inied crcu't board

gin linear actuator conneciof

switch connector . -n. t

?How to adjust electric elements

POWER SUPPLY
supply SWilCh
Secondary voltage of transformer (P13)

Terminals AC Voltage Notes

1—7 about 15.5V for circuit &

4-7 15.5V main motor

9-11 about 13.0V for lamp

• Cord *eet unit & Power supply switch

1. Take out cord feel unit from machine.
2. Take oui power supply switch connector A and
transformer connector B
3. Turn the power supply switch on.
4. Measure the resistance between terminal 1 & 3
on connector A. =,

No Exchange power supply switch

1. Insert power supplv plug to outlet

2. Measure the voltage between terminal 1 & 3 on
connecior B.

Exchange cord reel unit j

 Transformer (Secondary Voltage)
1
1. Connect U anslormer connector Band takeout
circuit board cover.
Fit cord reel unit to the machine.
2. Take out face plate and Iron! cover
3. Disconnect transformer connector PI 3 from
common circuit board.
4 Insert power supply plug to outlet and turn the
power supply switch on.
5. Measure the AC voltage between terminal 1 &
7 A & 7 and 9 & 1 1 on the connector 13.

Yes
Check other portions

1. Turn ihe power supply switch o" and conned

connector PI 3.
2. Turn the power supply switch on.
3. Measure DC + 1 7.5V and DC-1 7.5V.

No
1. Turn the power supply switch 0(1.
2. Disconnect main motor connector Pi 8 and linear
Measure DC ±5v. actuator connector PS & P9 Irom circuit board.

Internal resistance

?-Refer ©
Main motor connector PI 8 1 -2 about 2 .on
on page 62.
Linear actuator connector PS & P9 1 -2 about 8 .50

Disconnect connector P6 (lor rotation & N P.

sensor). P8 (for linear actuator) and P9 (for linear
actuator) from mam circuit board. Yes
<C_Corfect?^>-

No
Exchange main motor
and/ot linear actuator

Exchange mam cif-

Conned connector P6
cuit board units. i
to main circuit board.
Exchange main circuit board units.

Exchange rotat'on/N.P
sensor.

Yes
e linear actuator

210
 Turn the lamp switch on

}. fl between P3 connecvot ((or Samp) 81 GMO = «?

R between P7 connector (for lamp swiich) & GND = «»?
No 2. R of P3 connector = 34~38n?
3. R of P7 connector at lamp switch on = 1 D?
R ol P7 connector at lamp switch off = «°?

Yes

( Normal j No

Exchange tamp, lamp switch

or lead wire
Exchange main circuit
board units.

Note: ' R" stands lor resistance.

"GND1 stands for frame ground (It is connected lo "O'V)
"00" stands for infinite resistance.

>. WHEN POWER SUPPLY IS ON, ZIGZAG STITCH IS NOT INDICATED BY LED

Check if the power supply is normal.

No
Refer to item 1 'POWER SUPPLY" on page 209

( Exchange mam circuit board units. )

PATTERN SELECTION

O Flow chan 1 (Movement of machine when pallern selecting switch is depressed)

3
Shilling to utility mode

Paite'fi selecting v%>iMm <s pane

IQI

ffi selecting out ol n»mo'v\

ini J

211
3-1. Pattern display is not moved when pattern selection switch is depressed

1. Turn the power supply switch off.

2. Disconnect connector PI from circuit
board.
3. Measure R between terminal 4 and 5 on P-1
R between terminal 4 and 7 on P-1

No
-5-/ Exchange start/slop switch unit

Disconnect connector P14

Measure R between terminal 1 and 2 on PI

No ~'\
■( Exchange fool controller jack

( Exchange main circuit board units )

3-2. Memory mode is not selected when pattern display change lever is moved to right

Check the fitting position of

1. Disconnect connector PJO (or side-cutter
micro-switch. (Refer to page
Switch.
194)
2. Turn power supply switch on and shifi
pattern display change lever to right.

Yes
Memory mode is selected? •{ Exchange side-cutter switch. J

1-Disconnect connector PI 7 for micro

switch and shift pattern display change
lever to fight.
2 Measure R between terminal 1 & 2 on PI 7

?•( Exchange micro switch J

( Exchange main c>'cui[ board unils )

212
 3-3. Other patterns than the ones for side-cutter are selected when side-cutter is attached

1. Attach side-cutter to the tubular arm.

2. Remove connector PIO.
3. Measure R between terminal 1 & 2 on PlO

*•( Exchange side-cutter switch j

( Exchange main circuit board units. )

MAIN MOTOR
Flow chart 2 (Movement of machine when start/stop button or foot controller is depressed)

OFF

Positions ol buttonhole change lever.

presser (001 and feed dog ate coneci' Motor is revoluting at setting speed?

Yes
Motor is fevoluting at set
point?

Yes

The revolution is stopped and warning

ts made by buzier for 5 seconds.

213
4-1. Main motor does not rotate when start/stop switch is depressed

Disconnect connector P1 and measure the

Warning 15 made by buiie^J
resistance between terminal 4 8, 7 on PI
Yes while start/stop button is depressed.

Turn Ihe balance wheel both clockwise and

counterclockwise.
Yes

Turn the volume VR1 for adjusting lowesi speed

( Exchange start/stop unit ~) /Exchange main circi
\^ board units.
clockwise as far as it will go. (Refer to page 199
motor >*
SO't/siop Sw.tch is 0"

Yes r/ Adjust the lowest speed. (Refer to page 199) J

Disconnect connector PI 8 Measure the resistance

between two terminals on Pi 8.

es ->f Exchange main motor J

Exchange main circuit board units j

4-2. Machine stops with warning buzzer in a second after it runs

Make the check as same as (a) on page 2M

Roianon & N P jhu No

are ooa ■y Adjust the rotation/N.P. shutter j
R io Dag* l')7)

( Exchange N.P. circuit board. J

4-3. Out of speed controt

Disconnect connecior Pi 2 and measure the resistance

between terminal 1 & 2 on Pi2.

\ Exchange main
)

Exchange main circuit board units J

214
 5. MAIN MOTOR STOP
O Flow chart 3 (movement when stopping machine)

Set the machine at its lowest speed.

( Main moior Slop

O The relation of position between N.P. sensor & N.P. shutter. (Refer to page 197)
When N.P. sensor is blocked by N P. shutter Needle-up position
When N.P. sensor is opened from N.P. shutter ■■- Needle-down position

-1. Main motor does not stop

Adjust R.P.M. at the Jowesi speed by turning VR1

(Refer to page 39)
Adjust needle stop speed, (flefter to page 200)

Yes
Normal condition?
——■
< Finish

NO

( Exchange mam circuit board unns J

>-2. Needle stop position (UP/DOWN) is incorrect

Turn balance wheel by hand

Too much torque

Ad|uJt mechanical
poMions

Adjust the position of N P. shutter. (Refer io page 197)

Adjust the lowest speed [Refer io page \<)1))

needle slop speed (Reter to page 200)

( Exchange main cncuM board uniis. )

215
6, PATTERN GENERATION
O Flow chart 4

No

Horizontal feed link is

moved.

Needle bar is moved.

O Timing chart (Needle highest position « 0°)

Need'e-uo position n posiiion
■ N.P. shutter |lo< delecting needle slop position)
Non-block
Block

10* "0* 160* \ 180'

Needie-uD pos'tion pulse Needle-up position pulse

Non-block

Floiauon shutlnr ((Of delecting pattern putse

790'
feed

Non-locking

120' 260'

"LOCK MECHANISM" is operated to hold horizontal feed link mechanically during fabric is led
V Homonial feed link is hold ai locked posiiion.
2. Horizontal feed Nnk is free at non-locked position and position of horizontal feed link can be moved by linear
actuator, which means teed volume can be changed.

6-1. Zigzag width is not correct

Turn the power supply switch off and move

needle bar right and left by hand.

No Adjust mechanical
portion

No Adjust rotation jhutlBr.

Rl lo page 197

Disconnect connector P8 and measure the resist

ance between lerminal 1 a 2.

^ Exchange linear actuator unit, j

Measure the resistance between terminal 3 & 4 on P8

while needle bai is moving.

No
->■( Exchange linear actualof unit, j

Exchange main circuit boaid uniis

216
6-2. Stitch length is not correct

Check following points:

height of feed dog (reler to page 196) pressure lever, brake
timing for feed regulator (refer to page 198) forward sntch
length (VR6 & VR3. refer to page 202) forward & back stitch
length for super automatic pattern (VR7. rafer to page 202)

*/Adjust (refer to page 197)")

Disconnect connector P9 and measure the resist

ance between terminal 1 & 2.

No
3 = about 8.50. -( Exchange linear actuator unit, j
-*■—
Yes
Measure the resistance between terminal
3 & A while feed regulating mechanism is
operated.

*■{ Exchange linear actuator unit J

C Exchange mam circuit board units. )

O Flow chart 5 (Buttonhole)

Movement Movement Movement Movement Movement

© © © © ©

[f
ri ■JJ

-il

217
6-3. Buttonhole is not obtained
(Different length of fight and left leg)

Buttonhole lever is fully

pushed backward ar far
3S it will go?

Let BHSW lever work by hand to make buttonhole

Machine is automatically
slopped alte<
«■/ Adjust the position of BH lever. [Refer to page

No

V Disconnect connecioi P2.

2. Measure the resistance between terminal 1
& 2 and 2 S. 3 while 8H lever is pushed
back.

( Exchange BH switch, j

Yes
Measure the resistance between terminal 1 & 2
and 2 & 3 while BH lever is pushed forth.

No
-5>/ Exchange BH switch J

Yes

( Exchange main circuit board units. J

7. MAL-WARNING VOICE IS NOT MADE

No
-*•( Exchange switches or sensors. )

Disconnect connector PI 6 Measure the

resistance be I wee" terminal 1 & 2 on PI 6.

No
■^=/ Exchange speaker )

( Exchange mam circuit board units. )

218
 Repairing

Sewing Machines