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Belsk. The Largest Hillfort in Europe
Belsk. The Largest Hillfort in Europe
The
largest
hillfort
in Europe
Enclosed within the
ramparts of Belsk is
enough land to do
a modern city proud.
This giant hillfort dates
back to the Scythian era,
but what was going on
inside it? Marina Daragan
has been exploring
an enigmatic edifice.
B
elsk is a large hillfort which at 1,700ha would fit into Belsk ABOVE The fortifications that ring Belsk, the largest
settlement (gorodishche) of two and a half times. Roman London hillfort in Europe, are still impressive today, with the
Scythian times built near the covered 133ha, so you get 36 Roman distance from the base of the ditch to the peak of
the rampart sometimes exceeding 10m. Activity
modern-day city of Poltava Londons into Belsk. (And for our
within much of the interior is rather less prominent,
in north-central Ukraine. It is American readers, Manhattan Island though, raising questions about Belsk was for.
huge, measuring 4,870ha in extent, with is 5,900ha, so Belsk would just about
a rampart more than 33km long. The fit into a squashed Manhattan.) But
RUSSIA
distance between the extreme northern who built this huge enclosure?
and southern points of the settlement is To the best of our knowledge, the
Kiev Belsk
11.6km – which means that, for Londoners, peoples who constructed this enormous
if you start at Hampstead in the north settlement were the northern neighbours UKRAINE
and go south through the West End, over of the Scythians, fierce horsemen who
the River Thames, you would end up in lived in the steppe region north of
Clapham Common to reach the furthest the Black Sea, in modern Ukraine and ROMANIA
extent. The biggest hillfort in western southern Russia. The Scythians produced
Europe is at Heidengraben, Germany, superb gold jewellery, some of which
came to the British Museum three years its builders. The Scythians were nomadic – Western Belsk and Eastern Belsk –
ago for a splendid exhibition (of which pastoralists and only started building that are enclosed within a larger hillfort.
this article is an offshoot). Herodotus settlements along the Dnieper River Apart from a few scattered settlements,
devoted a whole book of his Histories during the 4th century BC, the largest most of the territory within this large
to the Scythians, and as a result they of which is Kameskoye Gorodishche. hillfort showed no sign of permanent
are a source of endless fascination to The hillforts to the north, in the forest- occupation, but this was apparent in the
archaeologists. Scythians were certainly steppe region of Ukraine, were built by two enclaves. Western Belsk had an area
involved in the historical developments a different cultural group, who were not of only 87ha with a rampart 3.6km long,
that culminated in the construction unlike their contemporaries the Celts. whereas the interior of Eastern Belsk
of Belsk and numerous other similar Belsk is the largest such hillfort known. amounted to 75ha, enclosed by a rampart
fortified settlements, but they were not In fact, it consists of two smaller hillforts 4km long. Both fortifications are united
by a system of ramparts and ditches that
together make up the Great Belsk hillfort,
which lies on a watershed between the
rivers Vorskla and Suhaja Grun, tributaries
of the Dnieper.
From 1959 to 1995, major excavations
were carried out by B A Shramko on
the eastern fortification. He considered
the western and eastern hillforts to be
contemporaneous, with occupation
dating from the 7th to 3rd centuries
BC; however, he believed that a diverse
ethnic population lived in them, as the
ceramic assemblages in the two forts were
different. He looked to Herodotus to help
explain the site. The historian describes
how Darius, the Persian king who
threatened the Greeks, also attacked the
Scythians. They convened a conference
with neighbours including the tribe of
Budinus, in whose land there was a city
known as Gelon. Was Gelon in fact Belsk?
The Geloni are by their origin Greeks, who 8th century BC, a time when there was of a little puppy was found with a string
left their trading ports to settle among the a migration of the population from the of blue beads round its neck. The upper
Budini; and they speak a language half Greek right bank of the Dnieper to the Vorskla layers of ash hills are often associated
and half Scythian. But the Budini do not basin. These people were the bearers of with fragmented human skulls and jaws,
speak the same language as the Geloni, the archaeological culture called the a significant number of them belonging
nor is their manner of life the same. ‘Zhabotin’, characterised by very distinctive to women and adolescent children.
(Herodotus 4:108) black-glazed tableware, decorated with The ash mounds are long-term
geometric patterns and inlaid with white constructions and cover many different
Based on Herodotus, Shramko paste. The remains of their activity survived phases. Most of them date from the
correlated Belsk hillfort with the city in the form of ‘ash accumulations’, which second half of the 7th century to the
Gelon, meaning the different material are hillocks of various sizes differing in mid 6th century BC, though some begin
coming from Western and Eastern soil colour and consistency, but having earlier in the second half of the 8th
Belsk was explained by the presence a characteristic whitish tinge. These ash century. However, the materials from
of both the Budini and Geloni. After mounds could reach a height of 3m and the space adjacent to them belong to the
facing criticism for this stance, Shramko are rich in cultural remains. late 6th to early 5th century BC. The ash
revised his interpretation to Belsk being Some of the discoveries in these ash mounds produced important objects in
an ‘intertribal centre’. However, it now hills were distinctly odd – dare one say, the early Scythian animal style, bronze
seems obvious that the picture drawn by ritual? There were numerous partial and arrowheads, and Greek pottery.
Herodotus and used by Shramko does not complete carcases of goats, pigs, and dogs.
fully correspond to the archaeological Interestingly, some of the dogs had a The eastern hillfort
realities. Since the 1990s, several teams twisted neck, and one dog’s vertebra was In contrast to the western hillfort, the
of Ukrainian and German archaeologists found with a bronze arrowhead stuck in settlements on the site of the eastern
have combined to undertake a detailed it. Some deposits are very interesting: at hillfort were later: they did not take place
study of the monument. the bottom of Ash Mound 13, for example, before the second half of the 6th century
The site was occupied before the were found skeletons of eight sacrificed and continued until the end of the 4th
hillfort was built, with traces of activity dogs (with twisted necks), broken clay century. The organisation of the space of
found under the western fortification. loaves, part of a human skull, and burnt the eastern hillfort is completely different:
This happened around the middle of the dog bones. In another case, the skeleton ash accumulations are absent, but at least
three shrines have been identified, times from the middle of the 8th to the Tsarina
as well as some industrial complexes. 4th century BC. However, the western and One of the most interesting ancient
The sanctuary occupies the dominant eastern hillforts only coexisted for a fairly settlements within Belsk is Tsarina, which
terrain in the central, eastern, and short time during the second half of the is situated to the south of the western
south-eastern part of the fortification. 6th and the first half of the 5th century hillfort – though still within the great
The sanctuaries preserve clay altars BC. Most of the vast space inside the Great fortification – and was occupied over a
and pits in which various objects of Belsk hillfort remained uninhabited. broadly similar timescale. Here, evidence
religious significance were deposited. of further gruesome rituals can be found.
These include clay figurines of men, Several clay altars were examined with
birds, and animals with miniature human skulls placed at their base, near
vessels, and clay models of grain. In them, or on them. One of the altars was in
a number of cases, groups of statuettes the shape of a truncated cone extending
constituted whole ritual compositions 50cm above a platform. It contained
illustrating scenes of cult ceremonies. animal bones and two human skulls.
The manipulation of human skulls Human skulls without their jaws were
was an integral part of cult activity used in the foundation of the altar
– whole skulls or parts thereof in its lower layer. One of them
were found in the backfill of belonged to a young woman
many pits. Such religious (18-20 years old) and was placed
activities were also carried out upside down, facing towards the
in other sites of this period centre of the altar, lying next to
in the region – for example at the skull of a horse, in the same
IMAGE: excavations of I Kulatova and A Suprunenko, photo by A Suprunenko
of enemy destruction?
At first, the defences consisted of a Why was the Great
palisade, with a ditch in front of it. Then Belsk hillfort necessary?
the ditch was deepened to form a moat The combination of two neighbouring
and a rampart was raised behind it. Three hillforts into a single fortification is
to five horizons stand out, but it is unclear unique in Ukraine. At first glance it
whether they represent a single building is tempting to assume that it was the
episode or chronologically separate territory of a large city with a large
episodes. It is difficult to say when the population – the city of Gelon. Yet
ABOVE Various items were deposited in pits
within sanctuaries, including these clay figurines major fortifications were erected as the the western and eastern hillforts only
depicting humans and animals. data are only indirect. By analogy with coexisted for a relatively short period
Belsk hillfort coincides with the end of the imports and excellent examples of bone
Scythian era in the Forest Steppe, as objects in the early Scythian animal style.
well as in the Steppe. It was followed The Trachtemirovsky hillfort is situated
by more than a century of hiatus. on the right bank of the Dnieper, with an
area of about 500ha. In the north-western
Other mega-hillforts part of the hillfort there is an internal
in Ukraine fortification of 14.5ha. In this small
In addition to Belsk, ten other similar hillfort, there is a sanctuary with an altar
sites are known in Ukraine that can be on which stood a vessel in the form of a
considered giants. For example, the well- bird and a Greek kylix. The site dates to
preserved Nemirovsky hillfort is located the late 7th and early 6th century BC.
on both banks of the small Mirka River The Motroninsky hillfort, in contrast
and covers 123ha. The huge rampart is to the Nemirovsky hillfort, was laid out
well preserved. Its height exceeds 7m, and on a plateau surrounded on all sides by
reaches 10m in places, though on the deep gullies. This hillfort has a longer
other side it is only 4-5m. The depth of period of existence from the middle of
the ditch is 3-4m, and from the bottom the 7th to the middle of the 5th century
IMAGE: excavations of V Belozor
of the ditch to the top of the rampart is BC, and appears to have had a relatively
8-10m. Almost at the centre of the fort is a large populated area.
separate internal fortification. Most of the
site appears to have been uninhabited, but Hill thoughts
the bulk of the excavated material dates Despite certain differences, an identical
to the 7th century BC, and includes Greek and well-considered strategy for building