Component parts and Assembly

Steering. Delete that annoying clicking when turning the

S/wheel
Well the answer MIGHT be to go and buy a NEW W169 'A' Class or would it? I'll
leave you to decide aIter reading this mail which I received Irom a not too happy
owner:-

Quote
Hi LoIty
Thought you might be be interested in my experience with my local Mercedes Dealer.
In October 2008 I bought a new A150 se automatic Irom Mercedes-Benz BrentIord , a
dealership owned by Mercedes-Benz.

I took my car in Ior its Iirst service one year later aIter covering 4,000 miles. and
mentioned to the service assistant it had a knocking in the steering column, they rang
me up later that day to tell me they would be Iitting a new steering column and it
would be oII the road another day. I got the car back and apart Irom having to take it
back to have the steering wheel put on straight it seemed o.k.

Having only covered 1200 miles in the last nine months I was disappointed the
knocking noise had come back. I took my car back to BrentIord and it was road tested
by the workshop Ioreman who said the replacement steering column appeared to have
Iailed, in Iact he took the car into the workshop to have a look underneath it to make
sure it was saIe Ior me to use.

This morning I took my car into MB BrentIord to have the steering column replaced
and mentioned to the service assistant that on two occasions when I turned the ignition
key the car had not started and he said they had a test Ior that and they would check it.
He rang me back at mid-day to tell me that they had taken my steering column oII,
and inspected it and it was deIective and were replacing it with another new column
which they had pre-ordered Ior my car, however on testing the starting system the
starter motor was deIective and they were ordering a new one which will not arrive
until tomorrow morning.

I rang MB customer services and told them how unhappy I was with my car having
had 2 replacement steering columns and a starter motor in 5,500 miles but they were
not really interested. I do not expect a reply Irom you as I am not asking you a
question but wanted to let you know that the new W169 models still have the same
steering problems/quality control issues.

Luckily Ior me as the car is still within the 3 year warrantee I am not paying Ior this
work , just having the inconvenience oI no car as they won't give me a loan car!
Fortunately as I bought the car under MB Agility the car is owned by MB and I get
the choice oI purchasing it when it is 3 years old, I think you can guess what my
decision will be!
Unquote

Steering Wheel Position Adjustment

Please also read through page 50, beIore starting work on the steering assembly.
The steering wheel adjustment is one oI the things I really like about the 'A' Class, in
some makers cars the steering wheel is in your lap and others to high, in the A160 you
have the choice oI both and a bit in between. The adjustment leaver/locking devise is
to the leIt side oI the steering column, above your leIt knee. Drop the leaver down and
you are Iree to position the wheel where you want, within reason. Re-lock beIore
moving oII.





One word oI warning iI you ask another person
to release your bonnet Ior you then and Iinish
up doing it yourselI because they couldn't locate
the lever, check to see that they have not
inadvertently released your steering wheel
position lock, it can happen!










This picture shows the
diIIerence between the
Iully up & down
positions, which
although not a great
amount makes the steering wheel position more comIortable Ior both short & tall
drivers.
br








Driver/Owners oI
leIt hand drive 'A'
Class
The comments
made below relate
to the right hand
drive car , the
steering column
having two UJ's
Situated into it .
In the case oI your
car (LHD) these are
not put under such
stress as on the
RHD model as the
column and
steering wheel are
direct align with the steering rack.

However be aware oI a deIect that can arise, situated on your column is a plastic ring
which cancels the indicators as the column is turned, this unit can Iracture on both
RHD & LHD and cause what appears to be a jammed/locked steering wheel even
when moving, applying more pressure to straighten the steering wheel crushes this
ring.
I have asked Jonas K the inIormant oI this problem & driver oI the car that suIIered
this serious deIect which could have cost him his liIe that he should inIorm Mercedes-
Benz oI this problem, at present he is having problems even obtaining a new plastic
ring, without purchasing the complete column.
albeit the LHD column is a lot cheaper than RHD models
The example shown oI the component on the right is Ior a W170 LHD model.





I think this component the
Steering Column, is the most
talked about on the baby-
benz.com site, a great deal has
been said about it, and it appears
that it has been subject oI many
modiIications over the relatively
short liIe span oI the 'A' Class.
Many oI the owners belonging to
the club have had problems,
some more than once, so this is
an item which is worth keeping
an eye on when you check your
car Ior MOT as well as Ior
general saIety.
Following discussions with my MB agent I was surprised to hear that although the
universal joint (UJ) is pre-packed with grease the component itselI is in a dry
condition within the rubber boot. There have been many cases oI this component
seizing , and sulphation Iorming on the components parts.

Steering column Iaults appear to Iall into three categories :-
:- steering wheel can be moved slightly up and down and slightly Irom side to side .
The Iault is caused by insuIIicient compression on the bearing at the bottom oI the
jacket tube, the upper tube/sleeve through which the column runs which allows play at
the steering wheel
Slight clicking when you turn the steering wheel leIt, right, this is not a problem and
should not cause the car to Iail in any way, including the MOT . However it is
annoying and can be over come by greasing/packing the spline which runs between
the middle and lower sections oI the column.
See the inIormation below.
I have applied heavy grease to the spline on several occasions and it cures the clicking
Ior a while, so I'm conIident that the cause oI the clicking is minute movement in the
spline.
The spline plays no part in the steering aspect oI the car it simply allows the column
to be split into two parts Ior removal purposes.
I contend that the theory about the column laying across the Iront oI the engine to
prevent the steering wheel hitting the driver when involved in a 'head on'
collision/accident is rubbish, although I agree it may stop that happening, it wasn't in
my view the reason it was Iitted in that way.
II that was the case then leIt hand drive car would have the column laying in the other
direction, which is not the case, as Iar as I can see it just saves Mercedes-Benz having
to design two steering layouts , one Ior right hand drive car and one Ior leIt.
see below how to stop the annoying clicking
Mercedes-Benz workshops Iit steering columns as though they grow on trees and
there are instances oI individual cars having had a number oI columns Iitted in a short
space oI time, at close on a 1000 time Iitted that's no joke especially iI you are the
one paying the bill! Even iI the car is under warrantee it is not always convenient to
have to keep getting the car back to the agent Ior repairs or loosing Ior a couple oI
days while they repair you new car! And Mercedes-Benz, Head oIIice in Germany
still maintain there is no problem with the steering column. What a giggle

There are Iew owners who at some point do not have one or other oI the above minor
problems mentioned
II Mercedes want to change you column while the car is under warrantee, no problem
they pay the bill. BUT iI they tell you it needs replacing once the car is out oI
Warrantee and Murphy's law says it will want replacing at just outside the 3 year
warrantee period that's a diIIerent story. It is unlikely that Mercedes will Ior instance
want to grease the lower UJ but it will cure the problem, iI you have got to the
component beIore any real damage has been done, so check beIore committing 100s
oI Ior something that may not need to be replaced.

I Ior instance have had slight clicking on and oII over two years, at no time has it been
mentioned on the MOT, nor am I in any doubt that my steering is 100
I cured this problem by packing the spline with thick grease which does stop the
clicking Ior some time , however it does return aIter a while as the grease dissipates
allowing the teeth on the spline to move Iractionally when turning the steering wheel


I am now experimenting with another Iorm oI packing on the spline and the results
have been 100 successIul

How to stop the clicking,
Individual Owners must make up their own minds iI they wish to Iollow my
procedure, but be assured I would not have carried out any trial iI I had Ielt that it in
anyway compromised the saIety oI the car or was in anyway dangerous to the
occupants.
New columns have been Iound to click as the steering is turned to and Iro so it is not a
wear problem, it is in my opinion a manuIacturing, tolerance/Iit oI matched
components problem.

On my own car I have now removed the lower section oI the column Irom the wrack,
and removed all the grease Irom the spline on both parts and cleaned with white spirit.
I have then placed a small blanking plug into the lower/hollow section, the same
diameter as the tube. This I did because the lower section has a hole at the bottom oI
tube and I did not want the sealant coming into contact with the UJ assembly, albeit
was unlikely as only a small amount was used.
I have then applied a small amount oI silicone sealant, (Bath seal that remains Ilexible
when cured was used as it could be easily removed had it not done the job) lower
section and then reconnected the two parts, ensuring that the column is aligned
correctly with the paint dots on the column, iI yours is not marked, mark it beIore
removing components. Also align your Iront wheels until the steering locks beIore
starting, then remove key
Reconnect the column to the steering wrack tighten 'Torx' bolt to 20Nm

Allow the sealant to cure beIore trying the car, say an hour, better still over night.

I would be interested to hear how you get on and iI it cures you clicking as it has
mine.

I have only mentioned my intent to one owner, prior to posting my Iindings on this
site who asked me to keep him inIormed oI the trials, This was his reaction having
carried out the same procedure Iollowing the total success on my own car:-
Quote.

Hi LoIty, just done the spline shaIt on the steering, the noise stopped, its like driving a
diIIerent car, what's the torque setting Ior the bolt on the UJ end as I just done it up
tightish, Unquote

and Chris Irom Australia "uote I applied your "Iix" to the steering shaIt yesterday. I
waited till today beIore testing the vehicle.
I can conIirm that the clicking when turning is completely gone. AIter looking at your
CD I also checked the bolts on the Iirewall and Iound them to be only Iinger tight,
they have now been tightened as well.

So now the bushes, top strut mounts and drop links have been replaced. The vehicle is
very quite to drive with no noticeable suspension noise, it does seem like a new car
again. Unquote


Results, As Ior my own car, aIter 12-15 months the clicking is just starting to come
back ,so as soon as the weather is better I will repeat the procedure, very cheap and a
deIinite cure.
However iI the need arises Ior you to repeat this procedure you may have problems
because oI the snug Iit and the adhesion oI the sealant. To over come this problem
simply pour boiling water on the outside oI the column tube and then ease the tow
parts apart it may take oI couple oI goes with the water but time is cheaper than a new
column which may still produce the same problems aIter a very short service liIe.




3 A more serious problem is the ceasing oI the lower UJ oI the column cause by
sulphation oI the components and water ingress. I'm quite conIident this water is
somehow getting into the boot /gaiter when the windscreen washer bottle is Iilled, so
take extra care when undertaking that task. This is the Universal joint that connects
the column to the steering wrack. This again can be a problem in that the steering gets
very stiII which causes some owners real concern, and rightly so. This again is easily
overcome iI you get to it early enough, see the procedure below which simply
involves easing back the protective gaiter, loosening oII the joint with WD40 Iront
wheels raised, and then when suIIiciently Ireed oII being given a good coating oI GP
grease to keep it Iree , the application oI grease also helps to stop any moisture getting
into the components oI the UJ.


Warning
DO NOT BE Tempted in any circumstances to turn the steering wheel while the
steering column is detached Irom the steering wrack, as this can cause serious damage
to the Steering angle sensor (Clock spring) situated below the steering wheel



The UJ shown in this photo is
located inside the vehicle and is
thereIore protected Irom the
outside environment, unlike the
one in the photo below which has
been known to suIIer Irom
corrosion, sulphation and thus
stiIIening or seizing oI the UJ.
is situated inside the car and
thereIore potentially protected
Irom damp and road dirt. In view
oI the number oI steering column
problems the 'A' Class has suIIered I surprised that this one also is not protected with
a gaiter.









When checking the steering
column also check to see that the
two nuts on the plastic housing
located on the bulkhead are
secure , although diIIicult to get
at these nuts have been Iound to
be loose on a number oI cars. This problem has been highlighted by owners to me
,although I Iound mine to be tight.












However iI you already have problems,
clicking, knocking or stiIIness when turning
the steering wheel, then you will need to
take more dramatic action now iI the
column is to be salvaged. A new column
with Iitting will cost you 800-900
something we would all like to avoid iI
possible.

II your vehicle is still under warrantee then
you would be well advised to seek the
advise oI MB beIore touching the UJ. This
is only to avoid them saying that the column
is not covered under the warrantee iI
problems do develop during that period.

Preventative action.































* CareIully separate the two halI's oI the 2 piece gaiter (boot), slide the top halI away
up the column away Irom the UJ Iold the bottom halI back down towards the rack.
* This will allow you to access the UJ and to enable you to spray with numerous
bursts oI WD40.L
* leave Ior a Iew minutes to allow this to penetrate the moving parts oI the UJ
* Place papers or shiny magazines on the ground in Iront oI the Iront wheels, and
drive the car Iorward to position the car on them ( This action is to add turning the
steering wheel without damaging the tyres on the solid surIace and the prevent undue
stress being placed on the other steering components.) Alternatively jack up the Iront
oI the car
* II jacking the Iront oI the car up, then use jack's (two)under the suspension wish-
bones, ensuring that the drive shaIt's are as near horizontal as possible. See my
comments reIerence drive shaIts on page 29 With the engine running exercise the UJ
by turning the steering wheel Iully Irom leIt the right, several times or and until the UJ
is Iully Ireed oII,




* Switch oII the engine, turn the steering
wheel Irom leIt to right there should be no
stiIIness at any point Bear in mind that with
the engine oII you do not have the assistance
oI power steering when turning the steering
wheel.
.




* Having Ireed oII the UJ service it using
general purpose 'Molly' Grease' or a similar
grease. get an assistant to slowly turn the steering wheel during application to ensure
all parts oI the UJ are coated/lubricated/protected.












* Re-position the gaiters and wipe with a clean cloth.
* I still Iitted a plastic tie around the top halI to ensure
that water does not enter the UJ gaiter.
I am convinced that a number oI the problems
experienced with steering columns on this car is due to
this UJ seizing, this places more pressure and wear on
the other BUJ's on the column as well as the spine
between the upper and lower sections oI the column.
Prevention has thereIore got to be the best cure.



Replacement oI gaiter/boot
This is not possible using MB parts as the gaiter/boot is
not sold as a separate item. However iI you column is
sound in all other respects, then universal gaiters can be purchased and Iitted to
protect this item . Damage to this gaiter will not Iail your car on the MOT in the UK.
However the UJ does need protecting against salt water spray Irom our roads in winter
as well as overspills Irom the screen wash bottle.
II you Iind a damaged/split Gaiter then ideally this should be replaced.
Although I have not had to undertake this repair on my own car others have, and so I
will include the procedure.

BeIore disconnecting anything when undertaking repairs on your steering always
check settings and column markers, the column is made oI several inter connecting
parts and so iI removed or parts replaced they need to be replaced as Iound.




Align your steering using the
markers on the steering rack , see
photo This action will ensure
that components removed can be
replaced in an identical position,
I also chock the wheels.
Note the securing bolt is a 'T45'
Torx drive













On the column it is selI there are
paint spots, markers that
should be aligned with one
another, and should be in view
when the rack markers are
aligned. Having Iamiliarised yourselI with the location oI the various components etc,
unbolt and remove the UJ Irom the s/rack
Having Iirst ensured the two halves oI column are marked withdraw the lower shaIt
complete with UJ Irom the upper section oI the steering column, this is done by
sliding the lower shaIt Irom the upper.
Remove the split/damaged gaiter,
The MB gaiter is made up oI two parts, and so you will need to acquire a replacement
that can be Iitted in a similar way , the two parts interlocking to Iorm a seal. Fit the
upper portion oI the new gaiter on to the lower section Irom the spline end with the
open cup pointing towards the UJ/rack and slide part way down the shaIt, a small
amount oI grease on the shaIt will ensure the gaiter is not damaged, grease on the
spline.
Replace the lower shaIt back into the upper section , making sure that it is replace
precisely aligned with the markers.

Place the lower halI oI the replacement gaiter on the UJ and position so as the align it
with the bolt holes in the gaiter.
Re-secure the UJ to the rack ensuring that markers are aligned.
At this point take the opportunity to coat the UJ in grease ensuring that all moving
parts are well coated, general purpose grease (GP) is Ok or iI you only have Molly-
slip or high melting point (HP) both oI these will equally suIIice. This action will help
to prevent the UJ seizing and also retard any chance oI corrosion and sulphation.
Note II on inspection you Iind the UJ stiII in its movement then give a good spray
with WD40 and exercise it until it moves Ireely, iI movement Iully returns, grease and
reIit, iI the unit is loose or showing signs oI rust or corrosion then replace.



See note below
As oI the 10/8/06 the main
section of the column is
available as a spare part. This
includes the lower UJ, 2 piece
rubber Boot/gaiter, the column
sections that includes the
sliding spline section up to the
next UJ, which can be seen
located by the clutch and
brake peddles, the part number
Ior this item is 4
and is priced at 157.79
plus vat 8/06
Note. My contact at my MB branch says this part is not now available separately Irom
the main column , however it would be worth making inquiries at your branch beIore
purchasing the complete column. A160 460 2216 (Adjustable) the current price oI
which 10/03/08 364.00 Plus Vat.
Having serviced the UJ the open cups oI the gaiter should now be Iacing towards one
another, bring the two halI cups together, the top cup goes over the lower cup.
This is how I would tackle it, but please remember I have not done the job! on my
own car. But acy who has undertaken this task agrees with this basic procedures.
Where problems are experienced with the column on right drive cars the complete
column will have to be replaced. Two units are available , adjustable ,and none
adjustable , part number is reliant on chassis number and cost 227.11 & 282.65
respectively, both plus vat. plus Iitting




Between the upper and lower
Universal joints
There is a telescopic section built
into the shaIt, the spline's
engaging into the machined
lower section oI the shaIt. This
along with its 45 angle and
location would allow the steering
column to collapse in the event oI
a Iront impact accident thereby
preventing the steering wheel
Irom being pushed into the cabin
and invariably the drivers chest. It is however Ironic that the column is not laid out in
the same way on leIt hand drive cars? This joint also allows Ior the slight movement
which takes place during every day driving, no matter how small.
It is interesting to note the two marks Ior re-positioning the two parts oI the column.
(Yellow painted dots) I have eased the rubber sheath back to enable us to see the
spline. I was surprised to see that this spline was completely Iree oI any Iorm oI
lubricant, I personally consider that any moving part, no matter how slight should be
lubricated, this is a steel component and it the right circumstances will rust , it will not
then move in the way it should. I have thereIore very lightly coated the exposed area
oI the spine with in general purpose grease, thus protecting & lubricating it. I would
advise you to seek advice beIore doing the same, although I can see absolutely not
reason why this should be a totally dry joint and lack oI any lubricant can only
increase the wear Iactor and deny the movement that is intended in it is design. This is
just one e-mail I have received on this very subject:- "uote



















These two photographs show the
sections oI the main column the
middle section being splined onto
which the lower section slide, I
have now proved conclusively
that on my own car at least the clicking heard when the steering wheel is turned leIt,
right, comes Irom the minute play on the spline, a good coating oI thick grease will
stop this annoying problem.







Hi, Can you help me out with a Iault on the steering oI my 1998 A160. The steering is
OK Ior the Iirst Iew miles then when everything is warmed up iI I put a big input into
the steering wheel it stiIIens up, especially at low speeds. I thought it might be the
pump on the way out but my local mechanic is going Ior a UJ Iault. Its trying to track
down the Iaulty item because all the components in the system are quite pricey. Your
advice would be most appreciated.
Unquote
I responded to Andrew, suggesting that he Iollow my lubrication technique Iirstly
spraying the UJ with plenty oI WD40 which he did. I subsequently received this
Iollow up e-mail:-
quote
Hi LoIty I put some WD40 into the gaiter on Monday beIore travelling 55 miles to
work, no sign oI any stiIIness in the steering. At work I managed to get about halI a
pint oI oil/grease mix into the gaiter and I have had no reoccurrence oI the Iault. Your
diagnosis was spot on and has saved me a tidy sum oI money. Thanks very much Ior
your help and iI I get any more problems I'll be straight onto your website. unquote

I do get great satisIaction Irom e-mails such as this where the owner is able to
overcome a problem by common sense, something which is sadly leIt out oI modern
servicing techniques.
Checking Ior play in the steering
column, one way to check is Ior
one person to grip the
UJ,(Universal Joint) the
component hidden by the rubber
gaiter and Ior the other to very
lightly turn the steering wheel
Irom leIt to right, several times .
II there is wear in that joints or in
the telescopic spline you should
Ieel it, you may also hear a slight
clicking.

Again to check the UJ Iurther up
the column the shaIt can be held Iirmly above the telescopic section, in the same way
movement on the steering wheel will not immediately be Ielt at the column, iI the
joint is worn to any degree the steering wheel will turn without immediately moving
the shaIt. this check is carried out in much the same way as when checking ball joints.
To reduce the tension on steering assembly and ball joints place two old shiny covered
magazines on top oI one another beneath each Iront wheel beIore starting your checks
this will assist with the turning oI the steering and will greatly reduce the Iorce
applied to the various components oI the steering assembly and tyres.
Turning the steering wheel while the car is static is almost certainly one oI the main
contributors to steering column and steering component wear and should thereIore be
avoided whenever possible.
Even very slight motion when turning the wheels will over come the stress on
components. Power steering although an asset, unIortunately enables even the weakest
oI people to turn the wheels while static. On cars with out power steering the amount
oI energy required to turn the wheels almost Iorces the driver to put the car into
motion.

Breakdown oI steering column
































The Steering Rack
The Steering rack lays
horizontally level with the
bottom oI the engine, aIIixed to
the rack are hydraulic high
pressure hoses and rigid pipe
work. laying between the rack
and the hoses can be seen the
torsion bar. 3 to which the drop
links are secured. Page 29.














Steering Rack and
Hub Assembly.

















Power Steering Pump Combined Reservoir NEW
II you have a deIective power Steering pump (PSP) ECU Testing.com will now
undertake the reIurbishment oI the pump Ior 195 less a discount iI you mention this
site 'LoIty's Homepage ) remember all oI ECU testing's charged repairs comes with a
long guarantee.
Please enclose details oI the nature oI the deIect or communicate the problem when
Phoning the company.

The power steering pump has a combined reservoir and is located on the N/S oI the
engine bay behind the radiator. Power Steering Pump, Combined Power assisted
steering is provided by an electrically powered pump situated below the reservoir. My
previous car had power steering which was powered Irom a drive belt running on a
pulley Irom the engine, when started the power steering was active immediately. I
have noticed with the 'A' Class that there is a delay oI a Iew seconds beIore the power
steering is active, although this does not present a problem.
With power steering which makes moving the steering so easy there is the temptation
to turn the steering wheel without moving the car, this action puts a lot oI pressure not
just on the rack but also on steering ball joints as well as tyres, it is thereIore good
practice to always have to car moving, no matter how slow, when turning the steering
wheel.


The PSP reservoir sits on the top
oI the electric pump that Ieeds
the power steering rack. The
system is sealed and thereIore
topping up oI the Iluid should not
be necessary. However any drop
in Iluid level should be
investigated as should heavy
steering. The Iluid levels should
remain constant, iI however seals
are damaged or worn, like brakes
Iluid will seep. ercedes enz
fluid Part number 4
3 applies. The power steering
system holds . of a litre
including pump.
In normal circumstances the
reservoir will not need topping
up, iI this is the case use MB
Iluid and check the system Ior
leaks beIore doing so.
MB also list 'Pentosin CHF 11S' as a suitable hydraulic Iluid.
It is not recommended that Iluids be mixed,

Shows the reservoir and power pack combined unit
Part No.A160/168 466 0410/0510, priced at 310 inclusive oI Vat 01/08/07
















The power steering pump is now a repairable item
Ior more details link on the pump.

















The reservoir has
got a dip stick attached
to the cap on which
there are temperature
markings at 20c
approx the Iluid level
should be between the
two level marks. Fluid
should not exceed the
marks when either hot or cold, over Iilling the system
can cause over pressurisation oI the system and
cause seals and the system to be to be damaged.
The green line indicates approx where you
should see the Iluid level when the Iluid is cold. (car standing overnight.)









The pump is driven by a
powerIul electric motor situated
on the bottom oI the pump, these
are the connection mounted on
the unit, assembly.
Although the operation oI the
system is a bit oI a mystery ,
what have determined is that the
pump will not run unless the
alternator is generating power
thereIore iI there is a Iault on the
alternator the power steering will
cease to Iunction. the blue wire
shown in this photo has
something to do with that arrangement.











However iI you thought the
above was complex then look at
this lot, this technology is
beneath the above photo and
Iorms part oI the circuitry Ior the power steering system, as you can see there are
several chips which are not going take kindly to being submerged in water so take
care.
This PCB being housed in a none water tight box is only 6"oII the ground so iI the
Ilood water comes much above the depth oI your tyre walls then this box along with
all in contains will be submerged in water, as a result there is every chance you will
loose you power steering.(this photo by Nick)pump packed up as a result oI the
exposure to deep water, bear in mind also that that alternator is only a Iew inches
higher oII the ground. In Nicks case the pressure oI water took part oI the under tray
oII the car as well. So iI you are intending driving through deep water as we have seen
owners oI various cars doing during the recent Iloods 07/07 then I suggest you trade
the car in Ior a submarine!!




The motor is Iitted with carbon
brushes C which when worn will
cause the electric motor to Iail.
I'm unsure as to where these can
be obtained, however a good auto
electrician should be able to
supply and Iit these Ior you.















There are 4 carbon brushes in this
motor the brush carriers are the
bright brass rectangular blocks C
only three can be seen in the
photograph above.




As can be seen this is a large motor, one oI the
reasons why it may stop iI your alternator Iails.
One reason Ior Iailure can be wear on the
phosphorous bronze bearing situated in the end
cap which stabilises the armature in the motor.
Again you should be able to obtain this Irom a
good Auto electrician.
Note also the large 'O' Ring which Iits around the
outer edge oI the end cap Iorming a water tight
seal.






The electrical
connections Ior
the pump are
located in a
black plastic
box, with a
Ilip up lid , located very near to the windscreen washer bottle support, on the top N/S
sub Irame. Ensure these are kept Iree oI contamination at all times or your pump will
Iail

Power Steering pump Failure/DeIects .
Breakdown oI power steering pumps, yes there have been a Iew, and a new
replacement Irom MB is expensive The type oI breakdown Ialls mainly in to two
categories,
One the pump continues to run even with the engine switched oII, this is a real
problem because iI you do not hear the pump running then your battery will be Ilat in
next to no time. ( in view oI the Iact that the pump is wired to only run when the
alternator is producing power, I.e. engine running, indicates to me that the pump has a
short circuit which is causing the pump circuits to remain live and thereIore the pump
to run continuously ) even with this deIect the pump works normally when driving
The only way the pump can be stopped is to pull the large 60 amp Iuse in position
Number 47, replacing it when you intend driving.
so at least you will be able to get the vehicle home and pick up a spare part.
Feed back Irom one owner with this problem has conIirmed that this is an electrical
Iault on the pump's complex electrical system, in his case aIter trying second hand
pumps without success he Iitted a new pump and has had no problem since.


04/03/2010 Mike in New Zealand
has now suIIered the continuous
running problem and has
overcome the problem by Iitting
an inline relay. I will copy his
mail here and you can then
decide iI you want to tackle the
problem in the same way. Note
this repair procedure will only
cure the PSP continuous running
problem not where the pump Iails
to run at all.
Quote
HiYa LoIty

I had a power steering pump Iail
on my 1999 A160 in that; the
pump would continually run even
with the ignition turned oII.
Rather than spending NZ$2500 Ior a replacement I did the Iollowing:
1) Removed the blue and heavy current wire Irom the connector box.
2) Installed a generic 30Amp relay and attached the "trigger" between the blue wire
and ground.
3) Passed the "heavy current" wire through the switching contacts oI the relay to the
pump.

This results in the pump coming on only aIter the engine has been started (and
alternator providing current to the relay).
I have been using the car now with this mod Ior two weeks without any issues.
One day, I might remove the pump and give it a closer inspection and possibly an
alternative repair solution.
Regards. Mike Unquote
Thanks Mike brilliant stuII.



The second oI the deIects is where the pump Iailed to run at all, check the 60amp Iuse
position 59 main Iuse layout. Fuses are best tested with a meter which ensures they
are sound iI a reading is achieved. Test that power is being delivered to the pump via
the blue wire which comes Irom the alternator. On my car with the pump working
normally I get a reading oI approx 12.5 volts on tick-over , with the ignition on but
engine oII I get a reading oI approx 1.3 volts
II no power is received at the power-steering junction box n/s/Iront blue wire then
check the connection onto the alternator, is is vital that possible deIects on the
alternator be discounted beIore considering the problem to be the PSP the pump does
not run with ignition only ON, the alternator must be producing power in the blue
wire. i.e. engine running .
At present I have no more inIormation on either deIect I will add it iI and when any
becomes available.
Even in the case oI the Iailed pump the car can be driven with caution, But be aware
that the steering will be very when compared to the normal situation, to overcome this
in the short term extra pressure in the Iront tyres will help./br