STARTInG GUn

GOLDen GLOBe nOmInATIOnS WeRe ReveALeD THURSDAY AnD THe HOLLYWOOD ReD cARPeT FASHIOn RAce BeGAn. PAGe 11

DIAne vOn FURSTenBeRG PRe-FALL, PAGe 12

Natures Remedy
This winter, Aveda and Ojon are aiming to provide natural solutions for hair issues that have traditionally required heavy chemicals: Aveda, with its Invati line for thinning hair, and Ojon, with Super Sleek, a collection designed to deliver smooth hair without chemicals like formaldehyde. Both collections bow next month. For more, see page 6.

WWD
FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011 $3.00 WoMEns WEAR DAIlY

PHOTO BY THOmAS IAnnAccOne

in WWD ToDaY
Ralph Lauren names Lalonde PAGE 2
s

NEWS: Ralph Lauren Corp. named former LVMH executive Daniel Lalonde head of its international operations.

Beauty Sales Strong for Holiday PAGE 6 BEAUTY: While stores performance has been patchy, retailers expect to see growth in their beauty sales at holiday, driven by celebrity fragrances. Proenza Schouler Said Opening Store PAGE 12
FASHION SCOOP: The designers are said to be eyeing a spot on Madison Avenue for their first freestanding store.

Designers Shares Leap On Wall Street Debut

By lIsA loCkWooD IM FEElIng gREAt, said an exuberant, and newly flush Michael kors, after ringing the opening bell of the new York stock Exchange thursday morning. Flanked by partners silas Chou and lawrence stroll, chief executive officer John Idol and chief financial officer and chief operating officer Joseph Parsons, kors stood beaming on the podium, looking at the crowd below. the Michael kors Holdings ltd. partners hugged, high-fived each other, and then called up other members of the staff, as well as kors mother, Joan, to the podium to wave to the crowd. After a few minutes, the stock, listed under koRs, shot up to $25, and the days trading began. the stock, which traded between $23.51 and $25.23 throughout the day, closed thursday at $24.20, up from its IPo price of $20. some 42.3 million shares were traded. given the more than 190 million shares outstanding, the closing price left kors with a market capitalization of $3.82 billion. After the stock was priced, a press-wary Idol whisked kors and the team away, saying securities and Exchange Commission rules prevented them from talking. Its been quite a journey for kors, who started his business 30 years ago. After sinking into bankruptcy in the early nineties, kors emerged and sold the business to Chou and stroll in 2003 for a reported $100 million. the Hong kong-based company grew rapidly, setting the stage for the IPo by raising money from private investors this summer. the number of shares sold in this weeks offering was 47.2 million, meaning the IPo will raise $944 million. the offering, which was oversubscribed 10 times, was underwritten by Morgan stanley, J.P Morgan Chase & Co., goldman, . sachs & Co. and others. sEE PAgE 4

Kors Goes Ka-ChinG

2 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011

WWD.COM

Ralph Lauren Taps Daniel Lalonde

By MARC KARIMZADEH NEW YORK Ralph Lauren Corp. on Thursday named Daniel Lalonde president of Ralph Lauren International. Lalonde, most recently president and chief executive ofcer of Champagne producer Mot & Chandon in Paris, will oversee Ralph Laurens entire international operations in this newly created position. He is relocating to New York and will start Jan. 23. International growth is a key strategic initiative for our company, Ralph Lauren, chairman and ceo, said. After achieving tremendous success in Europe, we are very focused on continuing those efforts and on expanding our presence Daniel Lalonde throughout Asia. Daniel is a seasoned and talented leader within our industry. I look forward to working closely with him to further elevate and grow the Ralph Lauren brand in our international markets. In recent years, Ralph Lauren has been building the international business, taking its entire Asian business back in-house, opening agships from Moscow to Dubai and Paris, and launching the Rugby line internationally, starting with Tokyo and London. Lalondes role adds a centralized element to the companys international division and its regional executives, including John Hooks, who was brought in as new group president, Europe, in September and who is based at Laurens European headquarters in Geneva. Lalonde spent the last 10 years at LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Before Mot & Chandon, he served as president and ceo of Louis Vuitton North America from 2006 to 2010 and, prior to that, was president of LVMHs watch and jewelry division here as well as its Tag Heuer brand. He joined LVMHs watch business from Nespresso. Lalonde will report to president and chief operating ofcer Roger Farah. His extensive background and proven track record in growing global luxury businesses positions him well to assume this critical role as we continue to strengthen our business worldwide, Farah said.
PHOTO BY PASHA ANTONOV

H&M Comp-Store Sales Slip

By JOELLE DIDERICH PARIS Hennes & Mauritz AB said sales including VAT in the fourth quarter totaled 36.17 billion Swedish kronor, or $5.4 billion, representing a 3 percent decrease in comparable units. The Swedish high-street retailer, which will publish fullyear results on Jan. 26, said same-store sales for the full scal year (December 2010 to Nov. 30) were down 1 percent, while sales in local currencies rose 8 percent. H&M did not provide an explanation for the data. The worlds third-largest fashion chain has seen sales and prots slide in recent months as European consumers tighten their belts amid worries a new recession is around the corner. In local currency terms, sales including VAT increased by 6 percent between Sept. 1 and Nov. 30, compared with the same scal quarter in 2010. Excluding VAT, sales amounted to 30.92 billion kronor, or $4.6 billion, versus 29.71 billion kronor, or $4.3 billion, during the same period a year earlier. All dollar rates are calculated at average exchange rates for the period in question. H&M also reported that same-store sales fell 1 percent in November following a 2 percent decrease in October. Sales in local currencies rose 9 percent, versus an 8 percent rise the previous month. In November 2010, H&M reported an 8 percent rise in same-store sales and a 17 percent jump in local currencies. The store count stood at 2,472 on Nov. 30 versus 2,206 stores at the same time last year.

Black by Vera Wang Set for the Spring

eventually grow to represent 25 percent of the companys tuxedo rental sales. Eightyfive percent of the rental BLACK BY VERA WANG. market is weddings and the Thats the name of the tuxbride is the decision maker, edo collection the designer he said. The rst thing that will be producing for The a girl does when she gets enMens Wearhouse. gaged is start shopping for On Thursday, the companies a dress. And we will get in conrmed a report in WWD that front of her very early in the Wang will take the plunge into process. Mens Wearhouse the mens formalwear industry is the ofcial tuxedo partner through a licensing deal with the for Davids Bridal, a leading specialty store chain. bridal retailer, that last year The collection, which will introduced a more moderhave an opening price point of A tuxedo from Black by Vera Wang. ately priced line of gowns $219.99 for a complete rental outt, will hit all Mens Wearhouse stores in the U.S. under the White by Vera Wang label. Davids has a big and growing Vera Wang busias well as the companys Moores Clothing for Men ness and this deal gives the relationship more synunits in Canada in late spring 2012. The inaugural collection will be offered in two ergy and Mens Wearhouse more credibility in the contemporary ts and colors, one black and one mind of the bride, Ewert said. He said the collection will be marketed online, gray. Both will feature a slighter, shorter jacket, 30.5 inches versus the standard 31-inch length, as well in Davids Bridal and Mens Wearhouse stores, in as a narrow 2 1/2-inch lapel. The black tuxedo will bridal magazine advertising and in over 700 bridal feature a two-button jacket with a notch, grosgrain fairs. Theres a heavy marketing machine and Vera lapel, side vents and at-front pants with grosgrain Wang will play a major role, he said. For more than 20 years, I have shared my destripes. The gray model will also be two-button, but with a satin-edge notch lapel, side vents and classic sign vision with women around the world, so it is at-front pants. The models will be offered in stan- exciting to now have the opportunity to share that with men as well, Wang said. With an exceptional dard, slim and big and tall sizes. Doug Ewert, chief executive ofcer of The Mens reputation as one the largest mens specialty retailWearhouse Inc., has high hopes for the performance of ers, Mens Wearhouse was a natural retail partner Black by Vera Wang, projecting that the collection could for the Black by Vera Wang collection. By JEAN E. PALMIERI

Herms Holding Company Complete

PARIS The Herms family has appointed Julie Guerrand president of a newly created nonlisted holding company owning more than 50 percent of Herms Internationals share capital, it said Wednesday. Guerrand belongs to the sixth generation of heirs to Thierry Herms, who founded the company in 1837. Earlier this year, she took over as director of corporate development in charge of investments and coordination missions at the rm, reporting to Mireille Maury, managing director of nance and administration. Herms said it completed the creation of the holding company, dubbed H51, on Dec. 12 and 13. The previously announced move by the luxury house is designed to protect it from a potential takeover bid by its unwanted suitor, LVMH Mot Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which now owns 21.4 percent of the Herms capital. The creation of this structure conrms the familys unity in its commitment to defending the independence of Herms, to preserve its values and its culture, Herms stated. The holding rm held its rst meeting Tuesday. Its board is made up of Bertrand Puech, the executive chairman of Emile Herms Sarl, which represents the family shareholders; Axel Dumas, managing director of the saddle and leather mtier; Laurent Mommeja, the former head of the U.S. subsidiary of Herms; Eric de Seynes, chief executive ofcer of Yamaha Motor France, and Herms International supervisory board member Charles-Eric Bauer, a spokeswoman for Herms said. Herms said it would not be launching an offer for outstanding shares as part of the operation, having won an exemption from stock market authority AMF, which was upheld by a French Court of Appeal ruling on Sept. 15, after minority shareholders had objected to the AMF decision. Members of the Herms family have granted the holding group priority rights to purchase an additional 12.3 percent of the capital of Herms International, it added. J.D.
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WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 2011 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 202, NO. 125. FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011. WWD (ISSN 01495380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in May, June, October and December, and two additional issues in February, March, April, August, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Cond Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Ofcer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating Ofcer & Chief Financial Ofcer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Ofcer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing ofces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P Box 503, .O. RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMENS WEAR DAILY, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, .O. ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA .O. 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. Subscribers: If the Post Ofce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatised with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMENS WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For reprints of articles, please contact Scoop ReprintSource at 800-767-3263 or via e-mail at sales@scoopreprintsource.com. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMENS WEAR DAILY IS NOT .O. RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMENS WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

SECTORS IN THIS ISSUE

FINANCIAL MENS BEAUTY 1,2,4,5 2 6,7,8 MEDIA PEOPLE FASHION 9,12 10,11 12

TODAY ON WWD.COM
EYE: More pictures Joseph Altuzarras holiday dinner, the FEED-Raiser and Market event, and the premieres of Albert Knobbs and The Iron Lady, as well as the latest edition of Celebrity Fashion at WWD.com/eye. FASHION: See the latest pre-fall collections, including Diane von Furstenberg and Carlos Miele, at WWD.com/fashion-news. ONLINE THIS WEEKEND: Story of the Week

DAILY QUOTE

ANNE HATHAWAY ON MERYL STREEPS PERFORMANCE IN THE IRON LADY. PAGE 10.

PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND

Witnessing it was a gift. She left me speechless and I think the Oscar race is done.

Jenna Lyons and Hal Rubenstein

Emma Watson

Te new feminine fragrance

Catch my heart at lancome-usa.com/playthegame

4 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011

Joseph Parsons, Lawrence Stroll, Michael Kors, Silas Chou and John Idol ring the opening bell at the New York Stock Exchange Thursday.

Michael Hits the Street

Kors, 52, joins a handful of American designers, namely Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, Tommy Hilfiger and Kenneth Cole, all of whom took their companies public over the last two decades and enjoyed handsome payouts. In fact, Kors has already sold about a third of his stock, worth about $117 million. Stroll and Chou sold about $519 million worth of stock combined. This is the second time the owners cashed out some of their holdings in the company. During the summer, the owners sold $500 million worth of shares in a private sale to mutual fund firms such as Fidelity and T. Rowe Price. Through their company, Sportswear Holdings Ltd., Stroll and Chou continue to own roughly 38 percent of Michael Kors, while the designer himself retains a stake of more than 8 percent. Although the IPO market for fashion companies dried up in recent years, 2011 has proven to be a comeback year: Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo SpA both filed public offerings in Hong Kong and Milan, respectively, while Coach Inc., which is already traded in New York, listed its depository receipts in Hong Kong. Jeweler Chow Tai Fook raised $2 billion in a Hong Kong IPO this month, and Tumi Holdings Inc. filed for an IPO earlier this week. London-based jeweler Graff Diamonds plans to raise as much as $1 billion in a listing next year and Italian designer Bruno Cucinelli is planning to go public as well. Industry observers and investors will be watching to see how Kors performs in the stock market, which has been rocked by U.S. political wrangling, a sluggish economy and the European debt crisis. As for Kors, the designer has significantly boosted his profile the last few years, thanks in part to his TV exposure as a judge on Lifetimes Project Runway, a role he has had since 2004, that brought him household celebrity. He has also won the Council of Fashion Designers of America Womens Fashion Designer of the Y ear (1999), CFDA Mens Fashion Designer of the Y ear (2003) and the CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award (2010). In accepting his Lifetime Achievement Award, Kors gave the line of
{Continued from page one}

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN

the night. Fashion, he said, is not for sissies. While Thursdays Wall Street appearance was new to Kors, it wasnt to Chou and Stroll. The duo previously took Tommy Hilfigers business public in 1992, earning them, as well as Tommy Hilfiger, a fortune, before eventually selling it to Apax Partners and later PVH Corp. Their company, Sportswear Holdings Ltd., a global private equity firm, has acquired and developed several global lifestyle brands. Sportswear Holdings current holdings include interests in Michael Kors, Michael Kors Far East, Tommy Hilfiger Asia, Karl Lagerfeld, Pepe Jeans and Hackett. A key strategy behind Kors rapid growth has been to reposition itself from primarily a wholesale model to that of a retail model, which the stock market tends to reward with higher price multiples. For fiscal 2011, Kors total revenues spiked 58.1 percent to $803.3 million, compared with $508.1 million in fiscal 2010. Net income shot up 84.7 percent to $72.5 million in fiscal year 2011 from $39.2 million in fiscal 2010. Retail accounted for 42.8 percent, 36.7 percent and 28.7 percent of its total revenue in fiscal 2011, fiscal 2010 and fiscal 2009, respectively. Furthermore, in recent years, Kors has shifted its emphasis from apparel toward accessories. According to the prospectus, Kors accessories have increased at a 57.6 percent compounded growth rate over the last three years, outperforming industry growth. Net sales of the companys accessories and related merchandise (including handbags, small leather goods, footwear, watches, jewelry, eyewear and fragrances) in both its retail and wholesale segments accounted for about 62.3 percent of its total revenue in fiscal 2011. We anticipate that sales of our accessories and related merchandise will continue to grow and will become an increasingly important driver of global comparable store sales growth, according to the filing. Kors operates a two-tier business: Michael Kors luxury collection and Michael Michael Kors, which is an accessible luxury collection, and is the engine of the company. The Michael Kors Collection is sold at such

stores as Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Harrods, while Michael Michael Kors is carried in such stores as Bloomingdales, Nordstrom, Harvey Nichols, Macys, Isetan and Lane Crawford. Expanding its retail network is a high priority for the firm. Kors rolled out 40 new stores in North America in fiscal 2011. We believe that there is significant opportunity to continue expanding our retail store base in North America and to increase our North American retail store base to approximately 400 locations in the long term, according to the filing. It said Kors seeks to open new stores in predominately high-traffic street and mall locations. At present, Kors retail segment encompasses 169 North American retail units, including concessions, and 34 international stores, including concessions, in Europe and Japan. Although China is a substantial opportunity for most luxury brands, interestingly, the IPO does not include Kors Chinese business, which remains controlled by Chou, Stroll and Kors in a separate company called Far East Holdings, which has licensing agreements with Kors that expire March 31, 2041. Kors wholesale business, which accounted for about 51.5 percent of its total revenues, is done through 1,801 department and specialty stores in North America and 549 department store and specialty store doors internationally. According to the prospectus, the company achieved a 33.7 percent year-over-year increase in its North American wholesale sales through the same number of wholesale doors, primarily attributed to an increase in shop-in-shops. The remaining revenue is generated through its licensing segment, which accounted for 5.7 percent of its total revenues. Licensing revenue jumped to $45.5 million in fiscal 2011, from $24.6 million in fiscal 2010. Licensed products range from watches and jewelry with Fossil Partners to the Aramis and Designer Fragrances division of the Este Lauder Cos. Inc., to eyewear with Marchon Eyewear. In addition, the company reported a 48.2 percent yearover-year increase in global comparable-store sales.

WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011 5 WWD.COM

The Kors executives see continued growth in the luxury goods sector. According to the Altagamma Studies, a report from the Italian luxury goods association, the global luxury goods sector is poised to grow from $230.1 billion in 2010 to between $299.3 billion and $305.9 billion in 2014, representing a 7 percent compound annual growth rate. Through their efforts in advertising, catalogues, social media and biannual fashion shows, Kors has dramatically increased its brand awareness. Kors brand awareness has increased from 11 percent in 2004 to 71 percent in 2011, according to a study commissioned by the company. In fiscal 2011, Kors spent roughly $27.4 million in advertising expenses in North America and internationally. The company gets added exposure from celebrities, such as Angelina Jolie, Heidi Klum, Gwyneth Paltrow and Catherine Zeta-Jones, who have worn Kors designs on the red carpet. The companys goals are to strengthen its global brand by continuing to open retail stores in high-visibility locations; maintain its strong advertising position in global fashion publications, expand its online advertising exposure and Internet presence, and continue to distribute its store catalogue featuring new collections. Further, Kors plans to continue to hold semiannual runway shows and leverage the designers global prestige and popularity through various press activities and personal appearances. Analysts believe there is still plenty of room for Kors to grow, both domestically and overseas, though sustained rates of growth STOCK YEAR IT WENT PUBLIC OPENING PRICE could be challenging. Ron Friedman, head Tommy Hilfiger 1992 $15 of the Retail Practice at Marcum LLP based in Los , KenneTH Cole ProduCTions 1994 $12 Angeles, said, The next few weeks will tell whether donna Karan 1996 $25 the price will hold or not. Polo ralPH lauren 1997 $26 He said its a difficult equities market and growth CoaCH 2000 $16 rates will be very hard to Prada 2011 $5.08 * maintain. I dont think apparel stocks overall do that ferragamo 2011 $11.71 * great at these multiples. Friedman believes Kors miCHael Kors 2011 $20 will expand his European *aT CuRRENT ExCHaNgE RaTE. PRada IS TRadEd IN HONg KONg aNd fERRagamO IN mILaN, and Asian business, will sign aNd HILfIgER aNd KaRaN aRE NO LONgER SEPaRaTELY LISTEd. more licensees and will continue to grow, but I dont think the shareholders will Faye Landes, managing director of Consumer Edge get the reward they expect. They always try to price it as high as the market will bear. Were in a recession, and ev- Research in Stamford, Conn., added, The brand is very eryones skeptical of the stock market. Its been very later- hot. Wall Street craves growth right now, and there are so al for the last couple of months. I think a lot of people are few growth names. This fits squarely in there. She said its obvious that Silas Chou is clearly very involved, addsitting on the sidelines and not investing in the market. Is it a good time to go public? Its probably as good a ing, Hes one of the smartest businessmen Ive ever met. Josef Schuster, ceo and founder of IPOX Schuster, a time as any in this environment. I think therell be some push-back in getting a higher price, said Friedman. He Chicago-based financial services firm, said he bought said stocks such as Google and Apple, and next year, stock in the company and will look to buy more. Theres demand for strong luxury brands, and the Facebook, explode when they go public. That doesnt happen with apparel stocks, said Friedman. When an apparel pricing reflects that. We believe its still in the early stages. Its not cheap, but it has potential. Its revenues stock gets to be like Apple, then the world is upside down. Dana Telsey, ceo and chief research officer of Telsey are steady and solid, and they have a strong manageAdvisory Group, said, We havent had an IPO in a ment team in place. There may be a takeover story, too, while with this momentum, citing the companys store, from a company such as LVMH. The market is validating the perception about how geographic and product growth. To hear the number of same-store gains is an encouraging sign, she said. strong the brand is, said Michael Dart, head of private She expressed confidence that the momentum should equity and strategy at Kurt Salmon Associates. The continue. Its still early on in their stage of growth and economics and the fundamentals have just been very good for this business. You dont have any real blip. theres more ahead of it, said Telsey.

Kors on opening day.

OPENING DAY STOCK PRICES

Dart attributed the companys success to its successful positioning as a lifestyle brand across multiple price points and categories. Now that Kors has successfully sold his story to Wall Street, others might be more likely to give it a shot. Theres a window of opportunity that the Michael Kors IPO has created for similar brands, Dart said. Y oure going to see a number of people seriously determine whether or not they want to be publicly traded companies. There arent many candidates, but Tory Burch is another name that is frequently mentioned as an IPO candidate. Janet Kloppenburg, president of JJK Research, said, I think Michael Kors is a very high-profile brand thats in the early stage of its proliferation, both domestically and internationally. She said its signature products, such as its watches and leather goods, are high-margin businesses with a strong following. As they open new markets, their following will continue to build and grow, she said. Paul Altman, managing director of the Sage Group, a Los Angeles investment firm, feels that Kors business has shown an impressive financial performance to date. He said it has experienced stellar growth in wholesale and retail, has a very healthy capital structure and gross margins are improving and are top of class. He noted Kors has clear international growth opportunities, since only about 10 percent of wholesale is outside the U.S., and even less of retail. He also noted that theres a growing sizable royalty revenue stream, which indicated additional reach of the brand. And since its not a huge percentage of the total, hes not concerned about an overreliance on licensing. This is a business that has carefully managed its image, and has substance behind the public image of its namesake creative leader, said Altman. Even Marciano Investment Group, controlled by Paul Marciano and Maurice Marciano, got into the act. It sold 206,294 shares, netting them $4.1 million, while holding onto more than 600,000 shares. We invested in the company first because of our friendship with Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou, and also because we believe in the team and their vision, said Maurice Marciano. They still have tremendous growth opportunity ahead of them and we are really happy to share this success with them.
With contributions from Evan clark

Stroll and Idol share a high-five.

Kors awaits the stock pricing.

6 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011

beauty
By Julie NaughtoN

Avedas Natural Answer to Hair Loss

LOral Closes Pacific Bioscience Sale

shoRtlY aFteR l oral closed the deal to buy pacific Bioscience laboratories inc. the maker of the hot-selling Clarisonic beauty devices Carol hamilton, president of the luxe division of l oral usa, was hinting thursday at some admittedly ambitious expansion plans for the newly acquired business. Noting that she views Clarisonic as a skin care brand since it transforms the skin, hamilton said it has a lot of potential in the u.s. her ultimate goal is to put one of the devices in every womans hand and every mans hand. Clarisonic, which generated $105 million in net sales last year, is now distributed through doctors offices, spas, prestige retail stores, tv shopping channels and over the internet in the u.s., u.K., australia, Mexico, Canada and the Far east. l oral will be picking distributors to expand into prestige venues, either department stores or perfumeries. pacific Bioscience will be part of the luxe division with its headquarters remaining in Redmond, Wash, and david giuliani, chief executive officer and co-founder of the newly acquired company will report to hamilton. she noted that l oral will build a world center of excellence in Redmond. We want a partnership rather than a merger, she said. When asked what possibilities the acquisition will open, giuliani said, l oral is in 135 countries, which is 130 more than we are. he also noted that Clarisonic is strong on sonic technology while l oral is expert at skin care bio-science and chemistry. the union will create a synergy of disciplines that neither side was capable of before.
P .B.

each product in the regime also contains targeted ingredients designed to support the densiplex Complex benefits. exfoliating aveda is hopiNg to give the burgeoning shampoo, $24 for 200 ml., is intended to thinning hair market a natural boost with its cleanse, exfoliate and renew the scalp with wintergreen-derived salicylic acid; doing so newest hair care line, invati. removes sebum and prodsaid to be 97 percent uct residue that can clog natural, the four-stockpores, noted Marianne keeping-unit lineup is Knutson, vice president of said to reduce hair loss by global marketing for aveda. up to 33 percent. thickening Conditioner, as more than 80 percent $24 for 200 ml., contains of the brands customers arginine, an amino acid decome to aveda via hair care rived from sugar beets and and the category accounts soy protein and which is said for more than 60 percent of to penetrate the hair shaft the brands overall business, to thicken it, as well as orthe brand has been focusing ganic kukui nut oil for shine. its research and developscalp Revitalizer, $60 for 150 ment efforts on innovative ml., is an infusion of turmeric hair care, said dominique and ginseng designed to be Conseil, global brand presimassaged into the scalp twice dent of aveda. Weve been daily. healthy hair daily is evolving from smell-good, a herbal supplement said to feel-good to problem-solvsupport healthy hair, and is a ing products addressing key blend of ayurvedic herbs and concerns. those categobotanical extracts, including ries include Color Conserve, turmeric and gotu kola, plus which addresses colored hair; An Invati item. antioxidants amla and green damage Remedy, intended to tea extract. intended to be do repair damaged hair, and taken twice daily after meals, Be Curly, designed to make the supplement retails for $55 curls manageable. for 60 tablets. addressing hair loss was a While executives declined logical addition, said Conseil. to discuss sales projections, inthinning hair is a big global dustry sources estimated that concern, and consumers are exinvati could do $50 million at pressing a strong preference for retail globally in its first year on natural products, he noted. counter. about 70 percent of that the invati line named for is expected to be done in the the sanskrit word for invigorate u.s., where aveda is currently in is powered by the proprieabout 5,000 salons and has 109 of tary densiplex Complex, which its own retail doors. combines ayurvedic herbs with National advertising is slatturmeric and ginseng, said to ened to break in February fashergize and rehabilitate the scalp ion, beauty and lifestyle magaaround the hair follicles when zines, said Knutson. While she and massaged in. aveda is sourcing the ingredient with Nisarga (sanskrit for nature), Conseil declined comment, industry sources an indian company which organically grows estimated that aveda would spend between ayurvedic herbs while supporting local com- $5 million and $7 million on advertising and promotion in the lines first year. munities.

Getting Straight With Ojon

With its NeW super sleek line, ojon is aiming to bring a natural version of a hair straightening system to the market in mid-January. one of our recent focuses has been on how we can, as a brand, be high-tech and also natural, said Jane lauder, global president and general manager of origins and ojon. the straightening category has experienced a huge amount of growth, and there has been widespread concern about chemicals in straightening treatments which made this a natural focus for us. the collection includes the sulfatefree, ion-rich smoothing shampoo, $24 for 8.5 oz.; smoothing Conditioner, $25 for 8.5 oz., and two versions of hair straightening treatment, each $39 for 2 oz.: one for loose to wavy hair and a second for medium to tighter-textured hair. the line is powered by the proprietary super sleek straightening Complex, and each product is formulated to match the 5.5 ph balance of hair and skin, noted geoffrey hawkins, vice president of research and development for ojon. the complex is designed to deliver three straightening actions simultaneously, said hawkins. a gentle reshaping agent relaxes and smooths out the curved structure of hairs keratin bonds, making them supple and flexible. then our proprietary blend including plant keratin derived from wheat, soy and corn proteins and azurite acts like a liquid flat iron to realign natural keratin bonds and seal in straightness. it also fills in rough spots on the cuticle that can make hair appear frizzy, coarse and unmanageable. Finally, this treatment acts as a conduit for heat transfer from blow dryers and flat irons to instantly loosen curls. each treatment is designed to keep hair straight and manageable for 30 shampoos, and consumers can wash and condition hair when a 24-hour time period has elapsed. it is also safe to use on relaxed hair. the brand has applied for five patents related to the line, hawkins added. the at-home regimen takes about an hour and a half from start to finish and doesnt require gloves or a mask, noted hawkins. its also free of formaldehyde, lye and cysteine. like all ojon products, it contains the brands ojon oil, which is said to penetrate deep within the hair shaft to repair and seal the cuticle, as well as resist future damage. While executives declined comment on projected sales, industry sources estimated the line could do about $6 million at retail in its first year on counter.

Part of Ojons Super Sleek line.

Living Proof Names Beraud CEO

NeW YoRK Beauty company living proof has named Jill Beraud chief executive officer, effective Jan. 9. Most recently, Beraud was president of starbucks/lipton Joint ventures and global chief marketing officer of pepsiCo. Beraud has also served as chief marketing officer of victorias secret and executive vice president of marketing for limited Brands inc.s broader portfolio of specialty brands, including Bath & Body Works, C.o. Bigelow, express, henri Bendel and limited stores. Beraud began her career at procter & gamble. the ceo position was vacated in late 2010 when Rob Robillard left the company to pursue other interests. a yearlong search for a new ceo had been under way with Jon Flint, the chairman and co-founder of living proof and founding partner of polaris venture partners as the interim ceo for the past year. in addition to Beraud, living proof has named grace Ray chief marketing officer. Ray was most recently vice president of global Marketing for smashbox Cosmetics. several additions have been made to living proof s board, too, including edgar o. huber, ceo and president of lands end, and Betsy olum, hsNs general manager of Beauty and Merchandising strategy. living proof, which makes and markets hair care products and uses formulas based on technology used in biotech and drug delivery companies from leading universities, such as Mit, recently closed a new round of funding, raising $13 million from the pohlad

Jill Beraud

group and polaris venture partners at the end of November. the funding caps off a year where $29 million was raised in total $16 million in the first half, from piper Jaffray and polaris venture partners. Funds are earmarked for research and development and marketing to further build the global brand. living proof was founded in 2005 but brought its first products No Frizz to sephora and QvC in early 2009. the brand is carried in sephora, Macys impulse Beauty, Nordstrom and on nordstrom.com and QvC and is best known for its polyfluoroester technology.
AndreA nAgel

Beraud PHOTO By TOm HOgan; aveda and OjOn By THOmas IannaccOne

the line will bow first in 450 ulta doors in January before rolling out to the brands remaining distribution in the fall. ojon is carried in about 1,200 doors in North america, including ulta and sephora, as well as on QvC, qvc.com and ojon.com. the regimen will be promoted via ojon.com, Facebook, direct mail and collateral and during on-air presentations at QvC.
J.n.

WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011 7 WWD.COM

Beauty Heads for Yule Showdown

By pete BoRN the pRestige BeautY BusiNess continues to move ahead as the holiday shopping season approaches its critical phase, beginning next week. that was the consensus emerging from a spot check of interviews with retail executives and market analysts. We continue to be pleased with the very strong performance of the beauty business, said howard Kreitzman, vice president of cosmetics and fragrances at Bloomingdales. he admitted that this year has been a roller coaster with the shift of Chanukah from early in the month last year to next tuesday this year. But the extra shopping day on saturday generally the busiest day of the week will be a major plus. at Nordstrom, laurie Black, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of cosmetics, said her business has been on track with double-digit gains, particularly in treatment and fragrance, and she plans to finish the selling season ahead in the high single digits. it looks like we are seeing a continuation of record growth this season, said Karen grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst at the Npd group. While it is difficult to judge with the selling season still in mid-flight, grant talked about the momentum being just so strong. she said that consumer sentiment seems to be running slightly more positive than the recent Conference Board poll. Macys, which controls an estimated 50 percent of the prestige fragrance business, declined to participate in the survey. But market sources gave wide-ranging assessments of the department store chains beauty performance, ranging from running ahead of the market but with inconsistent strength that will depend on the final days and hours. another viewpoint is that Macys business is gathering momentum approaching a 10 percent gain for the first two weeks of december. looking at the overall market, grant at Npd described this fall as a season of powerful fragrance launches, ranging from an onslaught of designer brands led by gucci guilty homme, Marc Jacobs daisy eau so Fresh and the new Jimmy Choo introduction to a powerful tag team of celebrity launches in the form of Justin Biebers someday and taylor swifts Wonderstruck. Referring to the latter two, grant speculated that this may be the first year that a celebrity scent pushes aside classic brands to land in the top 10. however, the classics are coming on very strong exemplified by Chanel, donna Karans Cashmere Mist and giorgio armanis acqua di gio for Men. skin care continues to sell well and makeup is riding a renaissance of glamour and femininity. it is very good to see the business performing all across the board, Bloomingdales Kreitzman continued. its very strong in the high-end skin care and in the opening price points Clinique and MaC Cosmetics. the middle of the business is equally strong, he said, adding were firing on all cylinders. he noted that both mens and womens fragrances are selling well, which is a rare occurrence. although the fragrance launches this year have been a mixed bag, Kreitzman said, the highpriced limited distribution scents like viktor & Rolf s Flowerbomb have done well and its an open secret how strongly the Chanel brand is surging. Customers clearly responded to Chanels tv advertising, he said. While it is unclear what effect the new advertising is having for diors Jadore scent, the fragrances performance has been quite good, he noted. in the past, tv advertising has normally been reserved for fragrances during the holidays, but manufacturers are now talking about other times of the year, mostly in skin care. Weve heard about lots of people really pursuing tv Kreitzman said, describing the ef, fort as a toe in the water for spring. Kreitzman refused to discuss numbers, but acknowledged that his goal was to do better than last year. according to industry sources, Bloomingdales had a gain for december in 2010 in the strong single digits. Black at Nordstrom said customers have responded well to a number of innovations that the store has pioneered, mostly involving a more focused use of fragrance modeling and sampling. also the store has switched to a policy called sample and hello, which means custom-

Bloomingdales on Black Friday.

ers are handed a bottle when they enter the department. this differs sharply from the industrywide practice of giving a sample as the customer is leaving, or sample and goodbye. By greeting shoppers with a gift, it immediately puts the customers at ease, Black said. in terms of new product launches, Nordstrom has a hit with prada Candy as strong as any launch we had and did not have the benefit of modeling. strong businesses also have been done in womens fragrances, treatment lines attached to designer brands like Chanel and dior and new launches including Katy perrys Meow, gucci guilty homme, amazing grace from philosophy and Coach poppy. Blue de Chanel also has been strong in mens. the classics have been strong, including Burberry Brit, Flower Bomb, Coco Mademoiselle and the rest of Chanel.

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WWDSTYLE

GOLDEN TICKETS: Young Adult star Charlize Theron was among the glamorous ladies nominated for 2012 Golden Globes. PAGE 11

MEMO PAD
TIME FOR A SWITCH: In a stunning
announcement, The New York Times Co. chief executive ofcer Janet Robinson said late Thursday afternoon that she would resign at the end of the month. She has been ceo since February 2004 and has been working at the Times for 28 years. Times chairman Arthur Sulzberger Jr. will be interim ceo as he begins to search for Robinsons successor. Obviously, the last few years have been tough as, together, we have navigated one of the most difcult periods in publishing history, Robinson, 61, wrote in an e-mail to staffers. It is probably an understatement to say that transitioning from a traditional print journalism model to the digital world has been an enormous challenge. Fortunately, thanks to a tremendous amount of hard work by many people, The New York Times Company is succeeding. Our balance sheet is strong, and we have a solid business plan and successful digital strategy in place that should serve the company well for many years into the future. I know that I am leaving the company in the best position possible. In Robinsons time with the Times, fortunes dropped dramatically, as advertising and circulation both saw precipitous declines. For the rst time in its history, the Times had to cut from its newsroom, which resulted in more than 200 job losses in the last three years. Additionally, the Times had to eliminate sections in the paper, reduce trim size, close a printing press, take out a mortgage on its new skyscraper and take an onerous loan from Mexican billionaire Carlos Slim. The Times Co.s market cap today at $1.1 billion dropped into the hundreds of millions. Still, there were no indications that Robinson would retire now, and with good reason. Finances at the Times have begun to stabilize. The paper launched a digital subscription plan in March, which has seen solid early returns. The Times paid off Slim well ahead of schedule. The paper has cut far less from its newsroom compared to other newspapers that were once closer in size (the Times now has 1,150 staffers in its newsroom, while the Washington Post has 600 and the Los Angeles Times has 550). Quarterly earnings calls with Robinson recently became a slightly more optimistic exercise (less talk of how the ad market was challenged and more about growth in digital and Sunday circulation). And through the disaster period that was 2008 to 2010 for newspapers, virtually all of Robinsons leadership team remained intact. There was little she and Sulzberger could do to stop the tsunami that hit every newspaper, and history should look back kindly on how they at the least kept the paper alive and retained a more-than-respectable newsroom head count. Sulzbergers choice for Robinsons successor will be a critical one for the Times as it contemplates this seems like a foreign thought growing its business. If there was one particularly touchy point among the Times newsroom and Robinson, it was her annual compensation. Even though the Times cut 100 newsroom positions in 2008, Robinson wound up taking home $5.58 million. The following year, the Times cut another 100 jobs and her total compensation ballooned to $6.2 million. It wont warm the hearts of many Times staffers to read a Securities and Exchange Commission ling released on Thursday as she broke the news of her retirement: She will be paid $4.5 million next year for consulting services close to her base salary for 2010. JOHN KOBLIN
{Continued on page 12}

Original Song
The awards season road show came to New York this week where a pair of early contenders, The Iron Lady and Albert Nobbs, had screenings. An Armani-clad Sinad OConnor surprised guests at a party for the latter with a short set that included a performance of Lay Your Head Down, which appears on the soundtrack, and which earned a Golden Globe nomination on Thursday. For more parties, see page 10. For a look at what to expect on the red carpet, see page 11.
PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER

10 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011

and a zinc topped bar near an Enomatic machine against one wall, where Joseph Altuzarra, who was hosting the holiday party at hand, stood. An intimate dinner had seemed just the thing to get in the holiday spirit for the designer and a close group of what he referred to as his support system. Vanessa Traina had her arm looped behind Altuzarras back for most of the cocktail hour, despite her decision to wear Balenciaga. Im not a brand ambassador. Just a friend, Traina said. Is it bad that Im all the way Joseph Altuzarra back here near the tables? Altuzarra asked. It was decided that it wasnt. Ill let people trickle Lauren Santo in this way, theyll have to sit some Domingo in time, he mused, grinning at his Altuzarra. boyfriend when the pair discussed their plans for the holiday: Paris and then Miami together for some sun around New Y ears. I remember this place when it was Florent, Aaron Young said. Y ears ago, when wed go out for dinner at 2 a.m. and then go out after. Vanessa Traina in You could stay here until 4 a.m. Balenciaga and Altuzarra The artist sighed fauxwith Laure Heriarddramatically: Oh, those were Dubreuil in Altuzarra. the days. Lauren Santo Domingo arrived in a tight slip of white Altuzarra eyelet. Well, youre really bringing it, the designer said of Santo Domingos silhouette. I know, my husband was like Where are you THE SIGN OUTSIDE 69 Gansevoort Street going? she said, cocking an eyebrow with a in Manhattan on Wednesday night read R&L feigned look of suspicion. Restaurant in the loopy metallic script This is so nice, Santo Domingo continued, characteristic of Chinatown eateries with pausing to say goodbye to a friend who had to slip laminated picture-filled menus, but inside was out to another obligation. Go, go, she laughed. something entirely new, the recently opened Tis the season for an impossible amount of Vinatta Project. Roughly hewn wooden paneling holiday parties. cozied up to dulled black patent leather booths ALESSANDRA CODINHA

eye

Lauren Bush Lauren with Ralph, Ricky and David Lauren.

Family FEED
THE URBAN ZEN CENTER in New Yorks West Village got its annual holiday crafts mall makeover on Wednesday night for the FEED-Raiser and Market. A selection of fair trade vendors set up shop in the makeshift bazaar, which donated 25 percent of its proceeds to the FEED and Urban Zen Foundations. Among those in the crowd of holiday shoppers at the Gilt Citysponsored affair were Rachel Roy, Cynthia Rowley, Mark Seliger and Gabby Karan, as well as a strong showing of Laurens Ralph, Ricky, David and Dylan and Bushes Sharon, Barbara and Jenna Bush Hager, who was doing some last minute browsing. We havent done any Christmas shopping at all so its panic mode, the one-time rst daughter joked. Standing in the middle of it all was, natch, Lauren Bush Lauren. The FEED Project co-founder was on the hunt for stocking stuffers. Thats the sort of added bonus of tonight, she said. You can nish your shopping and have a cocktail and raise money for a good cause. A bit earlier in the evening, Roy took a moment from perusing a booth of colorful throw pillows to explain her postholiday routine with her daughters. Every day after Christmas I take them to the sea, the designer said. For me its calming and its relaxing and its strengthening.I like to think that that bonds us. Were able to relax. I call it chillaxing. MATTHEW LYNCH

Support System

Premiere League
THE WEINSTEIN CO. PREMIERED its latest bit of awards season bait built around the real-life tales of the British ruling class on Tuesday night at the Ziegfeld Theatre in New Y ork. This years edition is The Iron Lady, a Margaret Thatcher biopic that presents the former British prime ministers life in a series of episodic ashbacks. Meryl Streeps turn as Thatcher has, of course, earned the actress some early Oscar buzz. A number of notable lmgoers, such as Anne Hathaway, Ellen Barkin, Gloria Steinem and Parker Posey, turned out to get a glimpse of the performance, which lends quite a bit of humanity to the sometimes strident leader. As she briey tread the red carpet at the Salvatore Ferragamosponsored premiere (nodding to Thatchers style in an Asprey of London pendant and earrings), Streep elded a question about how the former prime minister might handle Englands rather isolationist positioning amid the ongoing euro zone crisis. Thats waaaay above my pay grade, babe, Streep laughed before rifng on Thatchers condence of conviction. I dont know. But there was a period in the world before extensive polling sort of drove the political conversation [when] there was a little bit of clarity. Y knew who you were dealing with ou when you dealt with her, whether you liked it or not. After the movie, the crowd navigated the 10-block journey to Forty Four, the bar and restaurant at the Royalton Hotel in Midtown. A little before midnight, Hathaway was on her way out the door on the arm of new anc Adam Shulman. Witnessing it was a gift, the actress said of Streeps performance. She left me speechless and I think the Oscar race is done. Well, maybe not quite yet. A few addresses east of the Ziegfeld, the Museum of Modern Art on Tuesday played host to a Cinema Society screening of another awards season contender, the Glenn Close gender-bender, Albert Nobbs. The actress originally starred in a stage production of The Singular Life of Albert Nobbs in 1982, and has spent parts of the last 15 years trying to have the work adapted to the screen. So it made sense that she sounded a little satised. I believe in this story, Close, who also co-wrote the screenplay said. Its funny, its heartbreaking. Its unexpected. Wildly unexpected. The talent that we had involved. Im very happy with it. The lm takes place in 19th-century Ireland. Close plays a woman living in disguise as a man largely for economic reasons, but feeling all the expected emotional repercussions. The crowd at the showing and subsequent party at the Armani Ristorante included Closes daughter, Annie Starke, Lauren Bacall, Lou Reed, Patti Smith, Francesco Clemente and Debbie Harry. Rose Byrne and Mia Wasikowska, who co-stars with Close, laid on a pair of black-velvet-covered chaises in the middle of the crowded restaurant. Tony Danza held court at the bar and tussled affectionately with Paul Haggis. It was a very beautiful world [the world of the lm], and Glenn was amazing in it, Danza mused of the lm. Totally transformed. But Im not sure, actually, that I bought her as a man maybe she should have had a beard? Toward the end of the evening, Sinad OConnor took to the microphone for a surprise musical performance. Courtney Love headed for the exit, friend in tow. Where is the Monkey Bar in relation to here? Love asked. Lets go. One partygoer watched her exit and sighed, Well, its over when the bald lady sings? M.L. AND A.C.

PHOTOS BY LEXIE MORELAND

Lou Reed

Rose Byrne

Meryl Streep Adam Shulman and Anne Hathaway Grace and Mamie Gummer
STREEP GUMMER AND HATHAWAY PHOTOS BY AMANDA SCHWAB/STARPIX; ALL OTHERS BY STEVE EICHNER ,

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/eye

Mia Wasikowska in Elie Saab with Glenn Close in Giorgio Armani Priv.

PHOTO BY JENNA GREENE

Globe-Spotting
By Marcy Medina BeVerLy HiLLS nominations for the 69th Golden Globe awards were handed out Thursday morning, giving dozens of actresses and actors an early holiday present. But who will take home the ultimate prizes for best acting and best dressed? To be sure, the list is long with established Hollywood stars such as Meryl Streep, Kate Winslet and charlize Theron. But there are fashion risk-takers in the running as well, such as Tilda Swinton and Michelle Williams. and all eyes will be on newcomers rooney Mara and Shailene Woodley. The world is her oyster, said celebrity stylist nicole chavez of Woodley, nominated for her turn as George clooneys daughter in The descendants. i hope these young ladies push the envelope, because that has been missing in awards shows for a while. While chavez predicts classic glamour from the a-list golden girls, she sees linear, structured shapes from the trendsetters. Fellow stylist Jessica Paster also predicted structured gowns and bright colors to lead red-carpet trends, although there will be a lot of same old, same old. anything interesting will be left to rooney Mara. But elizabeth Stewart, who is dressing The Help nominees Viola davis and Jessica chastain, said, i would love to see women pleasing themselves as opposed to the masses, which would mean the fewer trends we see on the red carpet, the better. The show will air live Jan. 15 at 5 p.m. PST/8 p.m. eST on nBc.

eye

WWD friday, december 16, 2011 11 WWD.COM

Comedy or Musical

Laura dern, enlightened Zooey deschanel, new Girl Tina Fey, 30 rock Laura Linney, The Big c amy Poehler, Parks and recreation

Miniseries or Motion Picture Made for Television

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Supporting Role in a Series, Miniseries or Motion Picture Made for Television

Jessica Lange, american Horror Story Kelly Macdonald, Boardwalk empire Maggie Smith, downton abbey Sofia Vergara, Modern Family evan rachel Wood, Mildred Pierce

ACTOR FILM Drama

MARA PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER; All OTHERS BY BY DONATO SARDEllA

George clooney, The descendants Leonardo dicaprio, J. edgar Michael Fassbender, Shame ryan Gosling, The ides of March Brad Pitt, Moneyball

Kate Winslet in YSL.

Rooney Mara in Calvin Klein Collection.

Michelle Williams in Chanel Couture.

Comedy or Musical

Jean dujardin, The artist Brendan Gleeson, The Guard Joseph Gordon-Levitt, 50/50 ryan Gosling, crazy, Stupid Love Owen Wilson, Midnight in Paris

2012 GOLDEN GLOBE NOMINEES

ACTRESS FILM Drama

Charlize Theron in Atelier Versace.

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12 WWD FRIDAY, DECEMBER 16, 2011

WWD.COM

Pre-Fall 2012
COLLECTIONS

FASHION SCOOPS
A STOREFRONT FOR PROENZA:
Proenza Schouler is opening its rst store next year, and designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are rumored to be eyeing a space on Madison Avenue. A brick-andmortar store would be a major development for the label, which Andrew Rosen and John Howard invested in earlier this year with plans to build the Proenza Schouler business. JESSICA IREDALE parting ways with Rodolfo

Paglialunga. L.Z. CAPSULE TIME: Having exed her

knack for retro glamour during her eight-year stint as Azzaros creative director, Vanessa Seward is next set to extend her feminine touch to A.P The designer .C. has collaborated with the cult Parisian clothing brand on a capsule womens collection due to launch during Paris Fashion Week this spring. KATYA FOREMAN

NEW ROLES: Change is afoot at Giorgio Armani in Asia. In Hong Kong, Fabrizio Dosi has left his position as chief executive ofcer of the groups AsiaPacic subsidiary (excluding Japan), succeeded for now by chief operating ofcer Daniele Balestrazzi. At Giorgio Armani India, Matteo Perego succeeds Atul Midha as general manager of the area. LUISA ZARGANI UNVEILING VIONNET: The rst directly owned Vionnet store will be unveiled today in Milan. The unit is located in the same expansive, historic building housing the brands headquarters. A rst franchised store opened in Kuwait City in February. Vionnet co-owner and chairman Matteo Marzotto is working on expanding the companys retail network, with shops-in-shop in Russia and China. In October, Vionnet tapped Italian twin sisters Barbara and Lucia Croce as creative directors,

JOY TO THE WORLD: Louis Vuitton already has handbags, luggage, shoes, scarves, watches and ready-to-wear. Now the luxury house can add its own tune to the mix. On Friday night, Vuitton will host the Young Peoples Chorus of New York City at its Fifth Avenue maison. The group is the rst-ever recipient of the Louis Vuitton Inspiration Grant, and it is expected to unveil the Louis Vuitton Inspiration Song to the invite-only crowd, which was inspired by Bruno Aveillans Louis Vuitton lm A Journey. The inauguration of the Louis Vuitton Inspiration Grant, which recognizes the accomplishments of exceptional youth arts programs, is a reection of our deep commitment to arts education here in North America, said Louis Vuitton North America president and chief executive ofcer Valerie Chapoulaud-Floquet. MARC KARIMZADEH

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG

Naming her collection Macadam Diva, Diane von Furstenberg went on a prefall mission to conquer the city as an urban jungle. She and creative director Yvan Mispelaere showed pretty printed dresses toughened up with peekaboo panels and chain details, a studded leather jacket and a pleather basketweave coat. Its sexy and a little aggressive, said von Furstenberg, making it clear that these clothes are just as much about Mispelaere as they are herself. He understands me, our relationship is so important he as a fashion talent and me as a woman who wants it all.

FOR MORE PRE-FALL, SEE

PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN

WWD.com/
runway.

IN THE SUN: Versace tapped photographers Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott for its spring 2012 campaign, set to break in March fashion titles worldwide. Shot in the Sonoran desert of Borrego Springs, Calif., the campaign shows models Gisele Bndchen

PHOTO BY MERT ALAS AND MARCUS PIGGOTT

and Ryan Barrett basking in a hot blue light, dry grass and cacti behind them and a hint of a swimming pool before them. Bndchen, long a favorite of the brand, is shown stretching her never-ending, platformbedecked limbs and arching her back provocatively. Whereas Versace Steven Meisel shot model Laura Kampman for campaigns had Balenciagas spring campaign. recently favored {Continued from page 9} minimalist lines and solid colors, the latest FREEZE FRAME: Celebrities and images evoke the Italian houses supermodels seem to yielding sun-soaked earlier era of wild to fresh modeling talent in prints and studded bustiers. fashion advertising. A case in point is Balenciagas springGiovanni Bianco handled creative summer 2012 campaign, slated direction, while Joe McKenna and to break in February fashion David Bradshaw worked on styling magazines and on Web sites. for the shoot. CYNTHIA MARTENS Up-and-comers Laura Kampman, Juliane Grner, Rosie Tapner and Kirstin Liljegren posed for A still from photographer Steven Meisel in Versaces a New York studio last month, spring with Marie-Amlie Sauv as stylist, campaign. Pat McGrath on makeup, Guido Paulo on hair and Paris graphic studio M/M on the layout. MILES SOCHA

MEMO PAD