CairoGuide 7days

The best things to do in Cairo: a first-timer's guide to ancient and modern Cairo
Cairo, 7 Days
Table of contents:
Guide Description 2 Itinerary Overview 3 Daily Itineraries 9 Cairo Snapshot 47
Guide Description
AUTHOR NOTE: Cairo is the largest city in Africa, and one of the most exciting cities in the world. For the first time visitor, Cairo can be a bewildering and sometimes frustrating experience. This trip will help you get the most out of a weeks visit to Cairo. It includes all the best Pharaonic, Coptic and Islamic sights, as well as advice on more modern-day activities such as visiting galleries and cultural centres. It also includes some less well-known sights and activities, that not many tourists get to experience. Cairo is a huge, chaotic city, and its important to find time to relax. The trip has been designed with this in mind. One of the best things to do in Cairo is to let serendipity be your guide: Egyptians are very friendly, and you never know who you might meet around the next corner, or what incredible, half-forgotten monument you might stumble across. The issue of where to stay in Cairo is always a contentious one. This authors opinion is that its best to stay Downtown, in the thick of things. This makes the logistics of transport around the city much easier. An alternative is to stay in one of the plusher, more expensive resorts near to the Pyramids. The disadvantage of this, though, is that you are quite a way out of town. This trip assumes you are staying Downtown. Note that it's sensible to dress conservatively at all times in Cairo. This is essential, however, on days when you will be visiting mosques or churches.
Itinerary Overview
Day 1 - Cairo
DAY NOTE: Day 1 is designed to let you find your feet a little in the chaos of Cairo, and so is not that heavy on sightseeing. Start out at the Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square. Aim to arrive by 9 am, to try to beat the crowds of tour groups that descend on the museum. The Egyptian Museum is huge, and not very well laid out or labelled, so you might want to hire a guide there to help you to navigate all the history. Whether you do or not, make sure you see the diorite statue of Chephren and the bizarre Amarna art downstairs, and of course the treasures of Tutankhamen on the first floor. If so inclined, you could while away hours or even days browsing the collection here; but ensure you devote at least a good couple of hours to the museum, because it will help to put the other Pharaonic sights you will see in Cairo into context. Spend your afternoon wandering around Downtown Cairo, soaking up the atmosphere and getting your bearings. A good route from the Egyptian Museum would be to walk up Champollion Street, passing the Mashrabia and Townhouse Galleries of modern Egyptian art. Stop for lunch on the corner of Maruf street at Abu Tarek, a famous koshary restaurant. Koshary is a traditional Egyptian dish that is a mixture of pasta, lentils and fried onions, served with tomato salsa and chilli sauce. Its cheap, filling, and really tasty. Alternatively you could stop at the Arabesque Gallery and Restaurant for some traditional Egyptian food in classy surrounds (at the beginning of Qasr el Nile street), before heading up Champollion. Continue along Maruf to Talaat Harb street, one of downtown Cairos main thoroughfares. Turn left on to Talaat Harb, and keep walking until you hit Adli street on the right. This is home to one of Cairos only remaining synagogues: an imposing, gun-metal grey brick structure that manages to look both futuristic and gothic at the same time. After the synagogue, take the next right and walk down to Midan Mostafa Kamel; turn right and back down Qasr el Nile street to Midan Talaat Harb. On the way you will pass the Jacoubian Building on which the contemporary film and novel of the same name was based. At Midan Talaat Harb turn left, and walk down Talaat Harb street to Midan Tahrir (Liberation square). You have done a large loop, and are back near the Egyptian museum. You might want to visit one or more of the art galleries you have passed, to provide a counterpoint to the ancient art you saw in the Egyptian Museum. Mashrabia and the Townhouse galleries concentrate on showcasing high quality contemporary art from local artists, both Egyptian and foreign. In the evening, head to Estoril on Talaat Harb street for some authentic Egyptian food. From here it is a short walk to al-Horeya, one of Downtown Cairos most cosmopolitan, and popular watering-holes.
things to do restaurants hotels bars, clubs & nightlife
Abou Tarek Koshary Restaurant Arabesque
The most famous koshary restaurant in Cairo
Step Into An Asian Ambience
Mashrabia Gallery
Cutting-Edge Exhibits
Townhouse Gallery Estoril
Cutting edge and influential modern art gallery
Good quality Arabic food in cosy Downtown bar
Horeya
Downtown Cairos coolest bar
Day 2 - Cairo
DAY NOTE: Start early and aim to get to the Pyramids before 9 am, in order to beat the crowds and the heat. The easiest way to get there is to hire a taxi for the day. Your hotel will be able to help with this, though it would be cheaper to arrange it yourself. Just make sure your driver speaks enough English, and negotiate a fair price in advance. Note that it can take as much as an hour to reach the Pyramids if the traffic is bad. Once at the Pyramids, take the time to explore the site fully. If you arent claustrophobic, its well worth paying the small extra fee to enter one of the pyramids. There isnt really anything to see, but the sensation of being inside such a vast mass of rock is incredible. Make sure you also allow enough time to visit the Solar Boat Museum. Once you are done, drive to the Great Sphinx (included in the Pyramids ticket), stopping at the pyramids viewing point along the way. Have fun playing with perspective when taking photos of the Sphinx: if you get your positioning right, you can appear to be patting him on the head, and even kissing him! Grab some lunch at the nearby Felfela restaurant, before driving back to the island of Zamalek, trendy home of embassies, boutique shopping, restaurants and bars. Start your visit by ascending the Cairo Tower for spectacular views of Cairo; on a clear day, you might even get a second glimpse of the Pyramids! Spend the afternoon wandering around the relaxed streets of the island, checking out some of the funky cafes and shops. Dont miss alSawy Cultural Centre, at the west end of 26th July Street. This oasis of tranquillity always has some art exhibitions, and often plays host to music concerts in the evening. These can range from heavy metal to classical oud, so pick up a timetable and see if something takes your fancy. Stay on Zamalek for the evening:
Egyptian Museum
Awe-inspiring display of pharaonic artefacts
Itinerary Overview
eat at La Bodega or LAubergine, and indulge in spot of bar hopping.
The Great Pyramid
Last remaining ancient wonder of the world
Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren)

Limestone cap still intact
Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus)

Small but perfectly formed
The Sphinx
Haunting, mysterious and iconic
Solar Boat Museum Cairo Tower
Pharaoh's cruise boat to the afterlife
Best views of Cairo plus a revolving restaurant
Al-Sawy Cultural Centre Felfela
Home of art, culture and music in Zamalek
Popular chain serving up traditional Egyptian staples
La Bodega
After lunch at the Egyptian Pancake House, pop in to al-Hussein Mosque in the main square, the holiest mosque in Egypt. After that, cross the street and explore the beautiful al-Azhar Mosque, seat of Egypts head Imam, and one of the most influential mosques in the Sunni Muslim world. Behind al-Azhar Mosque is the Wikalet al-Ghouri complex: home to a restored mosque/ madrassa, a traditional craft exhibition, and site of the Sufi dancing show that you will be returning to on Saturday. . . After this, head south towards the Street of the Tentmakers and the medieval south gate, Bab Zwayla. Spend some time wandering around the beautifully restored Islamic monuments in the area, and check out the craftsmen making the traditional appliqu pavilions along the Street of the Tentmakers, a unique Egyptian craft. The vendors here are very friendly, and more than happy to chat about their work. Although still quite touristy, the prices here are much lower than in the Khan itself, and you can pick up some great bargains. . . In the evening, head down to Garden City. Just south of Downtown, Garden City is a pleasant maze of tranquil, tree-lined streets, and home to lots of government buildings and embassies. Take dinner either in Taboula (a quality Lebanese restaurant on Latin America street), or in Abu Shakra on Qasr al-Aini. . . You are a short walk away from Makan. Situated next to Saad Zaghloul metro station, this centre is devoted to preserving traditional Egyptian culture and arts, especially music. Every Wednesday at 9.00 pm the mixed male and female Mazaher ensemble perform the Zar: a traditional type of African and Middle Eastern music used in healing rituals. Make the most of this unique opportunity to witness, and help support, this endangered tradition.
Hip and elegant bistro, lounge and bar
L'Aubergine
Khan el-Khalili Bazaar
Restaurant specialising in veggie food, plus a lively bar
Beating heart of Islamic Cairo
Egyptian pancake house Al-Fishawi Coffee Shop Al-Azhar Mosque
Day 3 - Cairo
DAY NOTE: Take a taxi to Khan al-Khalili in the morning. This bustling tourist bazaar is at its best when filled with throngs of people, so you dont need to go too early. Spend a few hours wandering the narrow maze of alleys, haggling for souvenirs, and joking with the effervescent stall holders. Make sure you shop around to get a feel for the prices, and dont let yourself be pressured into buying: youll be coming back again at the end of the week! When you need to take the weight off your feet, head to the world famous al-Fishawi coffee shop, and complement your people-watching with a cup of thick, black Turkish coffee, and perhaps a water pipe. . .
Traditional Egyptian pancakes in Khan al Khalili bazaar The beating heart of Khan al-Khalili
Egypt's Highest Islamic Authority
Hussein Mosque (El)
Egypts most sacred mosque, housing grisly body part
Itinerary Overview
Wikala of Al-Ghouri
Well-preserved merchant's hostel that hosts a Sufi dancing night
Mosque-Madrassa of al Ghouri Mausoleum of al-Ghouri Bab Zwayla
An ode in marble to the twilight years of Mamluk rule
Look Out for Whirling Dervishes
Tulun Mosque is the zany Gayer-Anderson Museum, home to an eclectic collection of art and furnishings from all over the Near East. This is a great place to get some photos of beautifully restored, 16th Century Arabic architecture. Thursday night is the start of the weekend in Cairo, so head to Downtown restaurant/ bar After Eight for your dinner. They will almost certainly have some sort of live band playing, and you might end up dancing on the tables with some new Egyptian friends. Since its so popular, its best to reserve in advance. If After Eight has wet your appetite for partying, grab a taxi to the Cairo Jazz Club and dance the rest of the night away with the beautiful people. Just remember you have another full day tomorrow!
The imposing southern gate of Fatimid Cairo
Abou Shakra Makan
The Citadel
Where Locals Go For Local Cuisine
Imposing fortress with fantastic views, mosques and museums
Citadel: An-Nasir Mohammed Mosque

Simple Mamluk mosque inside the Citadel
Traditional folk and healing music
Citadel: Mohammed Ali Mosque
Day 4 - Cairo
DAY NOTE: In the morning, hire a taxi to take you to the Citadel. Again, aim to arrive as close to 9 am as possible. You might want to ask your taxi to wait for you for a few hours, so you can use him later in the day. At the Citadel, make sure you visit all three mosques, because they each have their own unique personality. Its best to start with the Mamluk one, then head to the Ottoman mosque (and the old fortress walls) before exploring the Citadels show piece the huge, opulent mosque of Mohammed Ali. Spend some time soaking up the incredible views out over Cairo that the Citadel offers you can really understand why Cairo is known as the city of a thousand minarets. If its a clear day, you may be able to see the Pyramids for the third time. If the idea of uniforms, guns and carriages gets you going, it may be worth checking out the museums in the Citadel complex. There is a Military Museum, Police Museum and even a small Carriage Museum. Depending on how long you spend at the Citadel, and how hungry you are, you might want to eat lunch at the restaurant. The food is pretty good, but be warned that it can work out quite expensive. If you dont eat here, you will have to try to grab a snack in the street later on. Once you are finished at the Citadel, get your taxi driver to drop you off at Ibn Tulun Mosque. Again, you could ask him to wait for you here if you want. Note that it is only a short walk from the Citadel to Ibn Tulun, if you fancy trying it: just head down al-Salbiya street, and dont be afraid to ask for directions. This huge mosque is considered to be the oldest in Egypt that has survived in its original form. Make sure you check out the floral friezes that run around the arches, because local legend maintains they were originally a part of Noahs Ark. Climb the unique, spiral minaret for yet another perspective of Cairo from on high. Next to Ibn
Huge mosque that dominates Cairos skyline
Ibn Tulun Mosque
Stunning architecture and unique minaret
Gayer-Anderson Museum After Eight
Eclectic museum in beautiful home, used in James Bond film Popular bar with live music and food
Cairo Jazz Club

Cairos super-club
Day 5 - Cairo
DAY NOTE: Today is another Pharaonic day, and its going to be a long one! Arrange to hire a taxi for the whole day, and leave early to get to Memphis by 9 am. Memphis was where it all began, the original capital of ancient Egypt, and would have been a spectacular city in its day. Unfortunately there is not much to see here now, but its worth visiting for a sense of completeness. You wont want any more than an hour here, and once you are done, its a short drive to get to Saqqara. . . Youre going to want a good few hours at Saqqara, because its a huge site: home to the first pyramid ever built, and a number of tombs and other monuments. In contrast with the Giza
Itinerary Overview
Plateau, relatively few tourists visit Saqqara, so the site is a very atmospheric place to wander around. Make sure you take sun protection and plenty of water though, because there isnt much shade. . . Start out at the museum, to give you an overview of what you are going to see, before heading to the main site. If so inclined, you could hire a guide to help you find your way around, although this is not necessary provided you have a map of the site. Spend some time exploring the area around the Step Pyramid and Funerary Complex of Djoser, before getting your taxi to take you to the tombs towards the north of the site. Make sure not to miss the Mastaba of Ti, whose detailed reliefs have provided Egyptologists with a wealth of information about everyday life in the Old Kingdom. . . Once you have had enough of Saqqara, drive to Dahshur to visit the Red and Bent Pyramids. Its about a half an hour drive, maybe more if the traffic is bad, so you might want to get lunch before you leave. The restaurant at the Saqqara visitors centre is pretty good; if this doesnt take your fancy, ask your driver to stop somewhere along the way for you to pick up some snacks. . . Even fewer tourists visit Dahshur than Saqqara, and you may be lucky enough to have the site to yourself. Its the home of the second and third pyramids ever built. They were both built by Sneferu, father of Cheops (builder of the Great Pyramid). The earlier Bent Pyramid was a partially successful attempt to build a true pyramid, rather than a stepped one. However, the structure started showing signs of stress after being half built, so the architect reduced the angle of the slope from 54 to 43 degrees, giving the pyramid its wonky shape. Unfortunately, the police will often not let you visit the Bent Pyramid, although you can admire it from afar. . . The first true pyramid in Egypt was the Red Pyramid, so named because of the slightly red hue of its building blocks. This is the third largest pyramid in Egypt (after the Great and Second Pyramids of the Giza Plateau) and you can go inside it. Even if youve been inside a pyramid already, its still worth entering the Red Pyramid because the internal structure is a bit more interesting: there are a few ante-chambers which precede the burial chamber, which have an interesting, vaulted roof structure. A word of warning, however, entering this pyramid is quite physically demanding: for Indiana-Jones wannabes only! Firstly, its a steep climb to get to the entrance (over 100 steep steps), and the interior passages are very cramped. Also, it sometimes has a very acrid smell, almost like ammonia, which can make breathing difficult. However, if this doesnt put you off, you should certainly visit. . . This evening you are going to go to the spectacular Sound and Light show at the Pyramids of Giza. The itinerary varies throughout the year, so you must call in advance to confirm the time of the performance. You should have time to return to your hotel beforehand to relax for a while, and grab a bite to eat. If
possible, have dinner at Cedars restaurant in Mohandiseen: fantastic Lebanese food at reasonable prices, with great shisha pipes. The restaurant is very popular with locals, and if you sample their mezze selection, you will see why! If pushed for time, you could go straight from Dahshur to the Sphinx for the Sound and Light show, and grab a bite to eat nearby. Alternatively, Cedars is open late, so you could always go there after the performance.
Memphis
Ancient capital city of the pharaohs
Step Pyramid of Saqqara

First pyramid ever built
Saqqara: Mastaba of Ti
Important tomb with colourful scenes of daily life
Saqqara: Mastaba of Ankh-Mahor

Known as the Physician's Tomb
Giza Pyramids: Sound and Light Show

Cheesy but spectacular, and definitely memorable
Saqqara: Mastaba of Kagemni

It's All in the Detail!
Saqqara: Mastaba of Mereruka

Largest Old Kingdom courtiers tomb
Cedars Restaurant
Great Lebanese food in informal atmosphere
Day 6 - Cairo
DAY NOTE: Spend the morning exploring Coptic Cairo, the old Christian quarter of Cairo. Either come by taxi or, if you are feeling adventurous, take the metro from Sadat Station south to Mar Girgis. . . The beautiful cobbled streets of Coptic Cairo are a wonderful place to meander around, taking in all of the religious monuments. Start your visit at the Coptic Museum (opposite Mar Girgis metro station) and spend an hour or so there, tracing the evolution of Coptic Christianity. Make sure you also visit the Hanging Church and the Cathedral of St George, before walking down the cobbled alleyway that leads to the picturesque, enclosed religion compound behind the main street. Here you will find numerous other churches, including the Church of St
Itinerary Overview
Sergius, where the Holy Family are believed to have sheltered. Dont miss the Ben Ezra Synagogue, the oldest in Cairo, and take the time to check out the book shop that spills into the main alleyway: its one of the best places in Cairo to pick up books about Egypt, the Middle East, and different forms of religion. . . The oldest mosque in Cairo, the Mosque of Amr Ibn al-Aas, is well worth a visit. You can get there by walking along Mar Girgis street, or by wandering through the serene Coptic cemetery. Make sure you also find time to visit the craft shops along Mar Girgis street: the vendors are very friendly, and poking around the bric-a-brac can turn up some antique gems. There is also a covered souq called Souq al-Fustat on the right of Mar Girgis street, just before the mosque, which contains traditional craftwork. . . Depending on how long you spend in Coptic Cairo and you could easily spend all day there you might want to get lunch in one of the many simple cafes along Mar Girgis street; otherwise, pick up something in town later on. . . In the evening, take a taxi to Khan al-Khalili and go the Sufi Dancers show at the Wikala of al-Ghouri. The show is a colourful demonstration of the spectacular Whirling Dervish style of Sufi worship (strictly, the Whirling Dervishes are a Turkish Sufi sect), and will make you dizzy just watching it! The show is free, and starts at 8.30 pm. Its best to arrive early to get a good seat. You can either grab dinner beforehand in the surrounding area, or head back downtown afterwards. A good suggestion for a Saturday night is the Greek Club, just off Talaat Harb square: cheap and cheerful, with an open air courtyard that is the perfect place, weather permitting, to sip your post-dinner ouzo and chat the night away.
Coptic Cemetery of Old Cairo

Beauty and serenity in a cemetery
Ben Ezra Synagogue
Egypt's Most Historic Synagogue
Amr Ibn el-Aas Mosque

Africa's Oldest Mosque
Wikala of Al-Ghouri Greek Club (The)
Well-preserved merchant's hostel that hosts a Sufi dancing night Cheap food and drink in classy surrounds
Day 7 - Cairo
DAY NOTE: Head to Manyal Palace first thing in the morning. There is an interesting palace to explore here, and a tranquil garden, but the real reason to visit is to check out the totally bizarre hunting museum. This is not for the squeamish, or the politically correct, because its chock-full of the former kings of Egypts hunting trophies. There are numerous mounted Ibex heads, elephant tusks, and a even a stuffed lion. The strangest exhibits are the diorama of a lobster attacking a crab, and the display of an ostrich head and feet, yet no body! . . From here, take a taxi back to Khan al-Khalili. This is your last chance to pick up those souvenirs and presents that have so far eluded you. Once you are done in the Khan, head north up alMuizz li-Din-Allah street, to the west of the market. This street takes you past a series of stalls selling household goods and shisha spare parts, as well as the garlic market. . . There are a wealth of beautiful Islamic monuments along this street that have been lovingly restored. Make sure you pop in to the Beit al-Souhaymi a fine example of 17th Century Islamic architecture. Also make sure you visit the stunning al-Hakim mosque at the north end of the road. . . Take your lunch at Zizos, a Cairo institution located opposite the northern gate. This spit and sawdust restaurant offers up the finest spicy sausage sandwiches in the whole of Egypt, no contest! . . From here, take a taxi to al-Azhar park, Cairos most attractive green space (and former rubbish tip)! Spend a few hours wandering around the perfectly sculpted gardens, reflecting on the wonderful sights that you have seen over the past week. There are decent cafes and restaurants here if you are in need of
Babylon Fort
Old Roman fort guarding the entrance to Coptic Cairo
The Coptic Museum
Largest collection of Coptic Christian art in the world
The Hanging Church
Lavish, suspended church; conducts mass in Coptic language
Greek Church of Saint George (Mari Girgis)

Church atop a Roman tower
Church of Abu Serga (St Sergius)

Supposed Resting Place of the Holy Family
Itinerary Overview
a spot of refreshment, and the people-watching is fantastic. Keep your eyes open for young lovers strolling amongst the flowers, coyly holding hands by each grasping one end of a shared mobile phone! Al-Azhar park is one of the best places in Cairo to watch the sunset, as you experience the haunting power of hundreds of mosques announcing the call to prayer at the same time. . . For your final meal, head to Abou el-Sid on Zamalek. This popular Egyptian restaurant serves alcohol, shisha pipes, and some of the finest traditional cuisine in the whole of Egypt. Unless you arrive early, a reservation is essential. Afterwards, return to some of your favourite bars on Zamalek or Downtown, to say your final fond farewell to Cairo.
Manyal Palace Museum Khan el-Khalili Bazaar Beit Al Souhaymi
Opulent palace with bizarre, disturbing hunting museum Beating heart of Islamic Cairo
Beautifully restored old Cairene house
Hakim Mosque (Al) Bab el-Futuh Zizo's
Simple, yet stunning mosque built by an insane ruler
One of medieval Cairos northern gates
Best kept secret
Al Azhar Park Abou el Sid
Beautiful and inspiring park on former rubbish tip
Traditional Egyptian cuisine, beer and shisha in Arabic splendour
Day 1 - Cairo
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Day 1 is designed to let you find your feet a little in the chaos of Cairo, and so is not that heavy on sightseeing. Start out at the Egyptian Museum in Tahrir Square. Aim to arrive by 9 am, to try to beat the crowds of tour groups that descend on the museum. The Egyptian Museum is huge, and not very well laid out or labelled, so you might want to hire a guide there to help you to navigate all the history. Whether you do or not, make sure you see the diorite statue of Chephren and the bizarre Amarna art downstairs, and of course the treasures of Tutankhamen on the first floor. If so inclined, you could while away hours or even days browsing the collection here; but ensure you devote at least a good couple of hours to the museum, because it will help to put the other Pharaonic sights you will see in Cairo into context. Spend your afternoon wandering around Downtown Cairo, soaking up the atmosphere and getting your bearings. A good route from the Egyptian Museum would be to walk up Champollion Street, passing the Mashrabia and Townhouse Galleries of modern Egyptian art. Stop for lunch on the corner of Maruf street at Abu Tarek, a famous koshary restaurant. Koshary is a traditional Egyptian dish that is a mixture of pasta, lentils and fried onions, served with tomato salsa and chilli sauce. Its cheap, filling, and really tasty. Alternatively you could stop at the Arabesque Gallery and Restaurant for some traditional Egyptian food in classy surrounds (at the beginning of Qasr el Nile street), before heading up Champollion. Continue along Maruf to Talaat Harb street, one of downtown Cairos main thoroughfares. Turn left on to Talaat Harb, and keep walking until you hit Adli street on the right. This is home to one of Cairos only remaining synagogues: an imposing, gun-metal grey brick structure that manages to look both futuristic and gothic at the same time. After the synagogue, take the next right and walk down to Midan Mostafa Kamel; turn right and back down Qasr el Nile street to Midan Talaat Harb. On the way you will pass the Jacoubian Building on which the contemporary film and novel of the same name was based. At Midan Talaat Harb turn left, and walk down Talaat Harb street to Midan Tahrir (Liberation square). You have done a large loop, and are back near the Egyptian museum. You might want to visit one or more of the art galleries you have passed, to provide a counterpoint to the ancient art you saw in the Egyptian Museum. Mashrabia and the Townhouse galleries concentrate on showcasing high quality contemporary art from local artists, both Egyptian and foreign. In the evening, head to Estoril on Talaat Harb street for some authentic Egyptian food. From here it is a short walk to al-Horeya, one of Downtown Cairos most cosmopolitan, and popular watering-holes.
Day 1 - continued...
contact: tel: +20 2 579 6974 fax: +20 2 579 4596 http://www.egyptianmuseum. gov.eg/ location: Tahrir Square Cairo 11728
1 Egyptian Museum
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Most tour groups visit in the afternoon so come in the morning to avoid the crowds.
DESCRIPTION: Also known as the Egyptian Museum of Antiquities, the Egyptian Museum arguably has the most masterpieces per square inch of any museum in the world! Over 120,000 objects are on display, with many more in storage. The Egyptian Museum covers over 3000 years of pharaonic history, from pre-dynastic Egypt to the Ptolemies. It's huge, and can be confusing, so consider hiring one of the knowledgeable guides from the museum. However you organise the visit, look out for the diorite stature of Khafra (Chephren) on the ground floor, as well as the only known statue of Khufu, builder of the Great Pyramid. Ironically, the statue is tiny! Also make sure not to miss the strange Amarna art of the heretical pharaoh Akhenaten. Upstairs are the Tutankhamun exhibits prepare to be blown away by the sheer opulence of the funerary offerings, including, of course, the golden death mask! Although it costs extra, the mummy room is well worth a look spooky and awe-inspiring at the same time. Finally, check out the animal mummies theres fish, crocodiles and even a cheeky little monkey. The Egyptian Museum is in Downtown Cairo, just off Tahrir Square and behind the Nile Hotel. If you dont fancy a taxi, you can easily get here by Metro get off at Sadat Station and follow the signs. NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 2 577 5935 fax: +20 2 576 1911 http://www.aboutarek.com/ location: 16 Maarouf-Shamplion Street Cairo hours: Daily 7a-mid
2 Abou Tarek Koshary Restaurant

DESCRIPTION: Abou Tarek is one of the most famous restaurants in Cairo, if not the whole of Egypt. Its not the sort of place you go to for a lingering, four course meal, because it really serves only one thing: koshary. Koshary is the best contender for Egypts national dish, and its certainly the food that Egyptians living abroad miss the most. Koshary is a carbohydrate bomb: a mixture of different types of pasta, mixed with lentils, chickpeas, fried onions and a sort of tomato salsa. You then season it to taste, with a combination of chilli sauce and a surprisingly fiery lime juice and garlic concoction. Its fast food at its best: cheap, filling, and surprisingly tasty. While you can get koshary on pretty much any street corner in Cairo, the koshary at Abou Tarek is particularly tasty. Theres a high turnover of customers, so its always freshly made, and pleasingly moist. As befits this no-frills dish, Abou Tarek restaurant is a simple affair: long metal trestle tables, with a splash of greenery about the walls. Service is very quick, and the staff are used to tourists and are pretty welcoming. The only choice you have to make is whether you want a small or large dish of koshary, and what the best drink is to counteract the
Photo courtesy of Abou Tarek Koshary
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burning throat induced by a reckless dollop of chilli sauce! NileGuide
contact: tel: 20 2 574 8677 location: 6 Qasr el-Nil Street Cairo hours: 12:30p-4p & 7:30p-midnight contact: tel: +20 2 578 4494 http://www.mashrabiagallery. com/ location: 8 Champollion Street Cairo 11728
3 Arabesque
DESCRIPTION: Notable for its art gallery and fine Oriental decor, the food at this tourist trap is overpriced. Come for the decor and its contemporary art exhibits, which change monthly. Tourists pile in to sit at widely-spaced tables in the wonderful carpeted dining area. Tapestries, mashrabiyya screens, elegant columns and a gurgling fountain add the finishing touches. A small gallery displaying contemporary work by local artists lines the entrance hallway. Touted as ContinentalEgyptian cuisine, the menu offers little of the latter. Alcohol is served. wCities
4 Mashrabia Gallery
DESCRIPTION: With its entrance tucked away in the alley of an ahwa (cafe), it is easy to miss this art gallery. That would be a shame, because it features fine exhibits by local and foreign artists and is one of the key venues of Al-Nitaq, the annual Cairo art festival. Patrons and artists frequent the ahwa out front in the evenings. wCities
contact: tel: +20 2 576 8086 http://www.thetownhousegalle ry.com location: Hussein El Me'mar Basha Street Cairo 11728
5 Townhouse Gallery
DESCRIPTION: Arguably the best private gallery in the city, owner William Wells is a leading figure in Cairo's art community. Exhibitions change frequently and many feature area display installations. Wells is a driving force behind Al-Nitaq, the annual Cairo Art Festival, and a visit to the gallery is a must during that event. wCities
contact: tel: 20 2 574 3102 location: 12 Talaat Harb Street Cairo 11111 hours: Daily noon-2a
6 Estoril
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Estoril can get quite busy on Thursdays, so the atmosphere is less intimate, and its advisable to book in advance
DESCRIPTION: Estoril is a cosy restaurant/bar tucked down an alley in Downtown. Stepping off the busy street and in to Estoril is a balm for all the senses. Its a small place, and although the smart tables are close together, it still feels quite intimate. The lighting is soft, and the atmosphere muted. There is no music, so soft conversation provides the aural backdrop. Estoril is decorated in a restrained, classy fashion: modern Arabic paintings adorn the walls, and there are a few mashrabia screens dotted about. The end of the room is dominated by a heavy wooden bar, complete with mashrabia panelling, and an ornate, gilded mirror. The staff are very welcoming, and the
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service is generally good: attentive and efficient, without being fussy. The menu at Estoril consists of classic Arabic dishes, many of which have been given a French twist. Start your meal with a selection of hot and cold mezze, and move on to a main of chicken, beef or veal. The chicken with molokheiya is particularly good. Theres also a good selection of seafood, and unusually for Egypt a decent choice of quality veggie dishes. Finish with fresh fruit salad, or a traditional sweet mihallabiya. Dont feel rushed to leave after your meal grab a stool next to the beautiful bar, and linger over a drink or two. Note that at weekends, the bar can be quite boisterous. Also, the quality of service suffers if the restaurant is busy. NileGuide
location: Midan el-Falaki Cairo hours: Late into the night
7 Horeya
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Try to make friends with the serving staff at Horeya, and they will do their best to find you a seat somewhere amongst the pandemonium
DESCRIPTION: Horeya is without a doubt one of the coolest bars in Downtown Cairo. It is not, however, somewhere you come for a quiet drink in nice surroundings! Its essentially an old coffee shop that also serves Stella beer. It has high ceilings, vomit yellow walls and pillars, and a dirty grey stone floor that is littered with fag butts and bean casings the same colour as the walls. Horeya is crammed full of Stella-sponsored tables and rickety wooden chairs, and patrolled by a handful of serving staff who almost aggressively thrust bottle after bottle of Stella at you. These bottle stay on the table, and are used to calculate your tab when you finally stagger out. The best thing about Horeya is the clientele: you literally rub shoulders with Egyptians from all walks of life, expats, the occasional tourist, and lots of earnest students from the American University in Cairo practising their Arabic. Even if there were music, you wouldnt be able to hear it over the chaotic hubbub of conversation. Talking to random punters is compulsory! The most bizarre part of Horeya is that in the corner, separated from the beer drinkers by an imaginary force-field, are groups of old men drinking Turkish coffee and playing chess. Its entirely typical of Horeya that they even manage to do this boisterously! NileGuide
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Day 2 - Cairo
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Start early and aim to get to the Pyramids before 9 am, in order to beat the crowds and the heat. The easiest way to get there is to hire a taxi for the day. Your hotel will be able to help with this, though it would be cheaper to arrange it yourself. Just make sure your driver speaks enough English, and negotiate a fair price in advance. Note that it can take as much as an hour to reach the Pyramids if the traffic is bad. Once at the Pyramids, take the time to explore the site fully. If you arent claustrophobic, its well worth paying the small extra fee to enter one of the pyramids. There isnt really anything to see, but the sensation of being inside such a vast mass of rock is incredible. Make sure you also allow enough time to visit the Solar Boat Museum. Once you are done, drive to the Great Sphinx (included in the Pyramids ticket), stopping at the pyramids viewing point along the way. Have fun playing with perspective when taking photos of the Sphinx: if you get your positioning right, you can appear to be patting him on the head, and even kissing him! Grab some lunch at the nearby Felfela restaurant, before driving back to the island of Zamalek, trendy home of embassies, boutique shopping, restaurants and bars. Start your visit by ascending the Cairo Tower for spectacular views of Cairo; on a clear day, you might even get a second glimpse of the Pyramids! Spend the afternoon wandering around the relaxed streets of the island, checking out some of the funky cafes and shops. Dont miss al-Sawy Cultural Centre, at the west end of 26th July Street. This oasis of tranquillity always has some art exhibitions, and often plays host to music concerts in the evening. These can range from heavy metal to classical oud, so pick up a timetable and see if something takes your fancy. Stay on Zamalek for the evening: eat at La Bodega or LAubergine, and indulge in spot of bar hopping.
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contact: tel: +20 2 383 8823 http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: Giza Plateau Cairo 12561
1 The Great Pyramid

DESCRIPTION: What can be said about the most iconic, and controversial, building in the world? The Pyramid of Khufu, most commonly known as the Great Pyramid of Giza, is the only one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world that is still standing. It is believed to have been built during the reign of 4th Dynasty pharaoh Khufu (known as Cheops in Greek), and completed round about 2560 BC. Constructed from an estimated 2.3 million blocks of sandstone, and with an estimated total mass of nearly 6 million tonnes, the Pyramid of Khufu has to be seen to be believed. Awe-inspiring does not even come close to describing the Great Pyramid, and it is still not known how the ancient Egyptians built it (assuming they even did)! Furthermore, many researchers dont believe it was a tomb after all other explanations include astronomical observatory, centre of cult initiation, and representation of the earths physical properties. Decide for yourself as you soak up the magic and majesty of this timeless monument. Along with the Pyramids of Khafre (Chephren) and Menkaure (Mycerinus), and of course the Sphinx, the Pyramid of Khufu is part of the Giza Pyramids Complex. Make sure you also find the time to check out the Solar Boat Museum next to the Pyramid of Khufu. The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. NileGuide
contact: 2 Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren) tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) http://www.touregypt.net/chep DESCRIPTION: The Pyramid of Chephren (or Khafre, in hren.htm ancient Egyptian) is the second largest of the three pyramids location: Giza Pyramids Plateau Cairo 12561
at Giza, and is sometimes known as the Second Pyramid. It appears larger than the Pyramid of Khufu, but that is because it is built on higher ground and the peak is still intact. It is believed to have been built during the reign of 4th dynasty pharaoh Khafre, thought by most archaeologists to be Khufus son. Unlike the Great Pyramid, the Pyramid of Khafre still has the remains of the limestone casing stones at the top these would have protected the pyramid and given it a brilliant iridescent glow that could allegedly be seen from the mountains of Israel. The pyramid is linked by a causeway to the Great Sphinx you can walk down this causeway, though you cant enter in to the compound of the Sphinx from here (you have to skirt around the outer wall). You can usually go inside the Pyramid of Chephren for a small fee, and follow a steep and claustrophobic passage all the way down to the burial chamber. There is not much to see, but the sensation of being inside such a huge physical mass is an incredible experience. The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. NileGuide
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contact: tel: +20 2 383 8823 location: Giza Pyramids Plateau Cairo 12561
3 Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus)

DESCRIPTION: The Pyramid of Mycerinus (or Menkaure, in ancient Egyptian) is the baby of the three Pyramids of Giza, if you can call something 108 m long and 67 m high a baby! Like the Pyramids of Khufu and Chephren, the Pyramid of Menkaure was built during the 4th dynasty, and so is well over 4000 years old! Not much is known of Menkaure, though he was believed to have been another of Khufus sons, and successor to Khafre. The Pyramid of Mycerinus is set back from the other two pyramids, about a 15 minute walk away. It therefore receives fewer visitors than its two bigger brothers, but is well worth checking out. Many observers claim that, when viewed on its own, the Pyramid of Mycerinus exudes an almost palpable sense of power far more than that of the other two. Because it is smaller, and so easier to comprehend, the effects of the geometry are magnified. Make sure you go to experience this example of pyramid power for yourself! The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. NileGuide
photo courtesy of Richardavis
contact: tel: +20 2 383 8823 http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: Giza Pyramids Plateau Cairo 12561
4 The Sphinx
DESCRIPTION: Like the Pyramid of Khufu, the Sphinx (often known as the Great Sphinx) is simultaneously one of the best known and yet most controversial monuments in the world. With the body of a lion seamlessly blending in to a human head, the Sphinx is carved from a single piece of in-situ rock 73 m long and 20 m high. It is sublimely beautiful, and has struck wonder into the hearts of visitors through the ages. It is believed to be a solar symbol, possibly representing the unity of matter and consciousness, the physical and spiritual realms. Conventional wisdom dictates that the Sphinx was constructed by Chephren (builder of the Second Pyramid), and it is true that the Valley Temple next to the Sphinx is linked to the Pyramid of Chephren. However, an alternative view backed by geological evidence suggests the Sphinx is much older than the normal 4th Dynasty date ascribed it, perhaps having been built as early as 10,000 BC. Adding to the mystery, a number of esoteric groups believe that the mythical Hall of Records is located beneath the Sphinx, containing the secret knowledge of the ancient Egyptians. Whatever the truth of these claims, the allure of this moving monument will continue. The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. NileGuide
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contact: 5 Solar Boat Museum tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) http://www.egyptvoyager.com/ DESCRIPTION: The ancient Egyptians believed the dead pharaoh would museums_solar.htm join the Sun God in his solar boat to sail through the underworld. In 1954 location: Giza Pyramids Plateau Cairo 12561
an actual solar boat (or barque) was found in a sealed pit next to the Pyramid of Khufu. The boat was made of cedar wood and almost perfectly preserved, although disassembled in to over 1000 pieces. A team of archaeologists spent over 10 years reconstructing the boat, which is now on display in the Solar Boat Museum, next to the Great Pyramid. The boat is a remarkable feat of engineering about 40 m long and with a displacement of around 400 tonnes! It is not known whether the boat played a purely symbolic function, or whether it actually served as Khufus ship of state. There is some physical evidence that suggests the boat actually sailed at sea! The Solar Boat Museum houses a number of artefacts found in the pit, as well as the reconstructed boat itself. It also has an interesting photo exhibition detailing the immense amount of work that went into the salvage operation. The best way to visit the Giza Plateau is by taxi. NileGuide
photo courtesy of mcoughlin
contact: http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: Next to Al-Ahli Sporting Club Cairo
6 Cairo Tower
DESCRIPTION: The 187 metre high Cairo Tower is arguably Cairos second most famous landmark (no prizes for guessing number one)! It is the fourth largest tower in the world, made of granite, and styled to look like a lotus plant (the symbol of Upper Egypt). The Cairo Tower offers fantastic views of the city, and on a clear day you can see all the way from the Pyramids in the west to the Muqattam Hills in the east. The River Nile looks particularly spectacular from this far up, and there are telescopes available to enhance your city-gazing. You ascend the tower in a lift, and there is a revolving restaurant and a caf at the top. The Cairo Tower was completed in 1961, and was caught up in the politics of the age. It was built with American money, and some say that it was actually Russian engineers that designed the tower. Locals believe that as well as a lotus plant, the tower represents the middle finger directed towards the USA, for blocking Nassers request for a World Bank loan to build the Aswan High Dam. Whatever the truth of these claims, the Cairo Tower is an unforgettable landmark with spectacular views, and is therefore well worth a visit. It is particularly pretty at night, when lit up by a shifting display of coloured lights. Situated on Gezira Island (more commonly known as Zamalek), the tower is best reached by taxi. NileGuide
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contact: tel: +20 (0)2 27366178 http://www.culturewheel.com/ location: 26 July St. Cairo hours: 8a-12a
7 Al-Sawy Cultural Centre

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: If you are staying in Cairo for a while, its worth heading to Al-Sawy Cultural Centre early in your trip to find out if anything coming up takes your fancy
DESCRIPTION: Al-Sawy Cultural Centre, at the west end of 26th July Street in Zamalek, is a gem. This progressive and modern cultural centre has a number of halls and exhibition areas given over to cultural activities. Each month there are different art exhibitions, from traditional Arabic calligraphy to watercolour landscapes. They also host photography exhibitions and craft fairs, and run a number of courses. Fancy learning a bit of yoga, or how to play the tabla? Al-Sawy Cultural Centre is the place to ask, since even if they dont offer the course themselves, theyll know a place that does. Al-Sawy Cultural centre also has live music each week, from local heavy metal to classical oud, and sometimes performers from abroad. The centre is open to non-members, and many exhibitions are free. You have to pay for the music and the courses, though prices are very low, and discounted for members. Al-Sawy Cultural Centre also has a pleasant garden area, and a simple caf with free Wi-Fi. Unusually for Cairo, the whole of the premises is non-smoking! NileGuide
Photo courtesy of Al-Sawy Cultural Centre
contact: tel: 20 2 392 2833 location: 15 Hoda Shaarawy Street Cairo 11111 hours: Daily 7a-12:30a
8 Felfela
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: If this restaurant is too busy, head to the near-by branch on Talaat Harb
DESCRIPTION: When you're in a hurry, this fast food restaurant is an ideal choice. This Cairo chain has English speaking staff and offers reasonably priced Egyptian specialities. One tell tale sign of the restaurant's quality - it's always busy! You can eat in or take away. wCities
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contact: tel: 20 2 735 6761 / 20 2 735 0543 location: 157 26th of July Street Cairo hours: Daily 12.00 pm - 1.00 am
9 La Bodega
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Arrive early evening to take advantage of their great value set menu
DESCRIPTION: La Bodega restaurant is on 26th July street, Zamalek. Its where the great and the good go to enjoy quality Mediterranean food and expensive drinks in classy surrounds. Enter through the street level doorway that still has a sign for the Balmoral, and either climb the stairs or take the old-school ornate iron lift to the first floor. Once in the marble lobby, the staff will greet you, and you can choose either to have a drink in the lounge bar, or visit the bistro. The bar is tiny, ultra-modern, and regardless of the number of customers will be playing dance music at full volume. The La Bodega bistro, however, is the complete opposite: a restrained atmosphere of efficiency and sophistication, with dark oak furniture, subdued lighting, and classical paintings adorning the walls. The menu is Mediterranean with a French bias, and La Bodega is renowned for its steaks. Although the food is expensive, it is very good quality, and the service is excellent. The restaurant also offers a wide range of set menus that are great value, though you have to arrive early in the evening to qualify. You dont have to eat in the La Bodega bistro. Many people choose to head around the corner and prop up the huge, copper plated bar. Youll often find groups of expats here, catching up over a cocktail or a glass of wine. The serving staff are very knowledgeable, and can make a good range of cocktails. You can even find Caipirinha, though dont expect it to taste like it does in Brazil! La Bodega is a classy place, so dress up before you go! NileGuide
photo courtesy of larsz
contact: tel: 20 2 332 0080 location: 5a Sayed El Bakry Street Cairo 12151 hours: 10a-2a
A L'Aubergine
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: LAubergine has the best vegetarian food in Cairo
DESCRIPTION: LAuberine restaurant, on Zamalek, is a favourite hangout of rich young Egyptians. Downstairs is a dimly lit, slightly cramped restaurant, that used to be the only purely vegetarian restaurant in Cairo. Nowadays, meat is also on the menu, although there is still a wide variety of mouth-watering veggie fare. Prices are a little on the high side, and if the serving staff are not always that friendly, at least they are efficient. The real action at LAubergine, though, is in the bar upstairs. Even more cramped and dingy than the restaurant, the bar is the province of the younger Cairo jet set, but has a great atmosphere. It actually feels like being in a Western style bar, especially since you have to pay at the bar for each drink you buy, which is unusual in Egypt. There is live music at LAubergine each week, and its also a popular place to watch the football. Dont expect to get a seat though, and warm your vocal chords up thoroughly before entering: youre going to have to shout to be heard! NileGuide
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Day 3 - Cairo
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Take a taxi to Khan al-Khalili in the morning. This bustling tourist bazaar is at its best when filled with throngs of people, so you dont need to go too early. Spend a few hours wandering the narrow maze of alleys, haggling for souvenirs, and joking with the effervescent stall holders. Make sure you shop around to get a feel for the prices, and dont let yourself be pressured into buying: youll be coming back again at the end of the week! When you need to take the weight off your feet, head to the world famous al-Fishawi coffee shop, and complement your people-watching with a cup of thick, black Turkish coffee, and perhaps a water pipe. . . After lunch at the Egyptian Pancake House, pop in to al-Hussein Mosque in the main square, the holiest mosque in Egypt. After that, cross the street and explore the beautiful al-Azhar Mosque, seat of Egypts head Imam, and one of the most influential mosques in the Sunni Muslim world. Behind al-Azhar Mosque is the Wikalet al-Ghouri complex: home to a restored mosque/madrassa, a traditional craft exhibition, and site of the Sufi dancing show that you will be returning to on Saturday. . . After this, head south towards the Street of the Tentmakers and the medieval south gate, Bab Zwayla. Spend some time wandering around the beautifully restored Islamic monuments in the area, and check out the craftsmen making the traditional appliqu pavilions along the Street of the Tentmakers, a unique Egyptian craft. The vendors here are very friendly, and more than happy to chat about their work. Although still quite touristy, the prices here are much lower than in the Khan itself, and you can pick up some great bargains. . . In the evening, head down to Garden City. Just south of Downtown, Garden City is a pleasant maze of tranquil, tree-lined streets, and home to lots of government buildings and embassies. Take dinner either in Taboula (a quality Lebanese restaurant on Latin America street), or in Abu Shakra on Qasr al-Aini. . . You are a short walk away from Makan. Situated next to Saad Zaghloul metro station, this centre is devoted to preserving traditional Egyptian culture and arts, especially music. Every Wednesday at 9.00 pm the mixed male and female Mazaher ensemble perform the Zar: a traditional type of African and Middle Eastern music used in healing rituals. Make the most of this unique opportunity to witness, and help support, this endangered tradition.
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location: Off Hussein Square Cairo 11211
1 Khan el-Khalili Bazaar

DESCRIPTION: Established in the 14th Century, and in constant use since then, Khan al-Khalili (or more simply, The Khan) is Egypt at its most intoxicating. Cairo has always been an important trade centre, and this tradition continues today in the bustling maze of alleys that forms Khan al-Khalili Bazaar. The Khan itself is relatively small, and is largely devoted to tourists. There are souvenirs here for every taste and budget: spices, jewellery, inlaid mother-of-pearl boxes and backgammon sets, water pipes, scarves, lamps, delicate perfume bottles (and the perfume to go in them) you can even get yourself a singing, dancing camel! Be warned, though, the traders here are black belts at haggling so be firm, but maintain your sense of humour and enjoy the experience for what it is: the raucous, beating heart of commerce the old-school way. When the banter gets too much, relax in al-Fishawi Coffee Shop with a water pipe and a strong Turkish coffee. This caf has been open 24 hours a day since 1773, and Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz is said to have visited every day up to his death in 2006. At the east end of the Khan is al-Hussein Square, home to the beautiful al-Hussein Mosque. The western end is bound by Muizz li-Din Allah Street. You can head north to Bab al-Futuh, past Islamic monuments such as al-Aqmar Mosque and Beit al-Souhaymi, or south towards Bab Zwayla and the Street of the Tentmakers. Leading west from Khan al-Khalili towards Ataba is al-Muski Street, a crazy local market that is well worth exploring. To get to Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, take a taxi to al-Azhar Mosque and cross the road via the underpass. The more adventurous traveller can walk up to the bazaar from Ataba Metro station, along al-Muski. NileGuide
contact: tel: 2024505871 location: Midan Hussein Cairo hours: Daily 11a-2a
Egyptian pancake house

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Take a selection of savoury and sweet pancakes, and share!
DESCRIPTION: The Egyptian Pancake House is situated in bustling Khan al Khalili bazaar, and is one of the best places to eat in the area. Egyptian pancakes (sometimes referred to as pizzas or pies) are actually known as fateers, and are sort of like a pizza topping stuffed inside a crepe. They are a perfect quick and tasty filler. The Egyptian Pancake House offers various savoury and sweet fateers, and the best thing to do is to take a selection, and share. The spicy sausage fateer is particularly good, as is the honey, nuts and cream. Watch how the chef makes the pastry, slapping it on the counter and swinging it around his head to stretch the dough. At the Egyptian Pancake House, you eat your fateers sitting at plastic tables and chairs balanced on the busy pavement, with a stream of vendors and the occasional tour bus parading past. This organised chaos, so typical of Cairo, is a big part of the fun! NileGuide
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location: El-Fishawi Alley Cairo hours: 24 hours daily
2 Al-Fishawi Coffee Shop

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Come back to al-Fishawi at night, when all the tourists have gone home and the locals have come out to play.
DESCRIPTION: Located in the heart of Khan al-Khalili, alFishawi is Egypt's most famous, and most exciting coffee shop. Al-Fishawi has been open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week for hundreds of years, and used to be a favourite haunt of artists and writers such as Nobel prize-winning author Naguib Mahfouz. The so-called "cafe of mirrors" extends along the side of one of Khan al-Khalili's narrow alleyways, and has a gorgeous, carved wood (mashrabia) interior. These days, the sheer volume of people visiting al-Fishawi means rickety wooden tables and chairs spill out in to the alley itself, with the effervescent waiters fighting a constant battle to squeeze the extra bodies in somewhere. The atmosphere is chaotic, with a heady mix of tourists, locals, shop-keepers and trinket-sellers variously drinking, shouting, and pushing their way through the throng. Al-Fishawi serves the standard range of sodas, juices and hot drinks, as well as various flavours of shisha (water pipe). It's a great place to take a break from shopping in Khan al-Khalili though don't expect it to be relaxing! NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 (0)2 59 3893 fax: +20 (0)2 59 3893 http://www.alazhar.org/ location: Al-Azhar Street Cairo
3 Al-Azhar Mosque
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Remember to remove your shoes, behave modestly, and its best to avoid prayer times.
DESCRIPTION: Al Azhar Mosque is one of the most beautiful mosques in Egypt, if not the whole world. It was established in 972 AD, the first Fatimid monument built in Cairo. Its name means the most blooming, after one of the prophet Mohammeds daughters. Al Azhar Mosque has been renovated and extended over the years, and it reflects a number of architectural styles. The large main courtyard is a particular highlight: 275 by 112 feet, made of glistening white marble, and home to hundreds of ancient columns. The five minarets are particularly elegant, and can be seen from much of Cairo. It is possible to climb some of the towers, though they are often locked and you should remember to give the porter a little something for his trouble. Al Azhar Mosque is also arguably the most significant in the whole of the Sunni Muslim world: it is home to the second oldest University in the world, established in 975 AD, which specialises in all forms of Islamic studies. The scholars of the university are very well respected, and are often called upon to issue fatwas, or religious rulings.
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Al Azhar Mosque is situated in the heart of Islamic Cairo, opposite Midan al-Hussein and Khan al-Khalili bazaar. It is best visited by taxi, though you could also walk up from Ataba Metro station. NileGuide
contact: 4 Hussein Mosque (El) tel: +20 (0)2 285 4509 (Tourist Information) fax: +20 (0)2 285 4363 DESCRIPTION: Al-Hussein Mosque is one of the most beautiful Cairo (Tourist Information) mosques. Situated in Midan al-Hussein, next to Khan al-Khalili, allocation: El-Hussein Square Cairo
Hussein Mosque is named after the Prophets grandson, who was killed by the Umayyads in Iraq in 680 AD during a battle over the succession of the Caliphate. It was this conflict that caused the schism in Islam that gave rise to the two main subdivisions of Sunni and Shia: with the Sunnis recognising the legitimacy of the Umayyad claim, and the Shiites maintaining that only a blood relative of Mohammed could be the Caliph. Hussein is revered as a martyr in the Shiite world, and although Egypt is predominantly Sunni Muslim, Hussein is still regarded as a saint here too. His head is buried inside al-Hussein Mosque. Technically, the mosque is closed to non-Muslims, though the caretakers will sometimes let you in if you appear respectful enough. Al-Hussein Mosque is elegant and restrained: a huge prayer hall with hundreds of light grey marble pillars, tasteful hanging lamps and chandeliers, and high vaulted ceilings. The mihrab is gorgeous: white, blue, grey and black marble arranged in to traditional geometric designs. The shrine to Hussein is a huge engraved silver affair surrounded by shining white marble, and offset by soft, almost otherworldly green lighting. You will often see pilgrims from all around the Muslim world at Husseins shrine, walking slowly around it, chanting. NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 2 285 4509 (Tourist Information) fax: +20 2 285 4363 (Tourist Information) location: Muhammad 'Abduh Street Cairo 11211
5 Wikala of Al-Ghouri
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: The free Sufi dancing show at the Wikala al-Ghouri is well worth attending, but make sure you arrive early to avoid disappointment.
DESCRIPTION: The Wikala al-Ghouri was built in the 16th Century by Qansuh al-Ghouri, the penultimate Mamluk sultan. A Wikala was a warehouse and merchants hostel, and the Wikala al-Ghouri has been carefully restored. You have to pay 15 LE to enter. It is very complete, with a huge open courtyard and a maze of stairs and passageways leading around the different floors. There is a marble fountain in the middle of the courtyard. Many of the old rooms have been turned into miniature crafts centres, and its possible to see workers producing leather ware, jewellery, paintings and so on. The combination of dark mashrabia windows on each room, and the striped marble building materials, is very effective; and although the Wikala al-Ghouri is very simple, it is deceptively beautiful. Every Wednesday and Saturday evening there is a free Sufi dancing show held in the courtyard. The show begins at 8.30 pm, though you should arrive by 8 if possible, to get a good seat. The show is absolutely incredible: the dancers spin in place, whipping their brightly coloured skirts into a mesmerising
photo courtesy of kudumomo
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kaleidoscope of patterns. At the end of the dance, they simply walk off without a wobble, as if they havent just been spinning around in a circle for ages. Its dizzying just watching them! NileGuide
location: In front of al Ghouri Mausoleum Cairo 11728
6 Mosque-Madrassa of al Ghouri
DESCRIPTION: Qansuh al-Ghouri was the penultimate Mamluk sultan of Egypt, and ruled for the first 16 years of the 16th Century. The area where the southern half of Muizz li-Din-Allah street meets al-Azhar street contains a number of monuments built by him, including the Wikala al-Ghouri, the Mausoleum al-Ghouri, and the Mosque-Madrassa alGhouri. The impressive Mosque-Madrassa al-Ghouri has been beautifully restored, its outside decorated with horizontal bands of dun and cream marble, Arabic stonework calligraphy and geometric patterns. The entrance to the Mosque-Madrassa al-Ghouri is an incredibly ornate niche doorway of black and white marble, that looks almost like a strange, fractal mountain range. The mosque itself is not that big, but feels light and spacious nonetheless, and has beautiful marble floors, ornately carved stone walls, and the black, white and dun coloured marble banding so typical of Mamluk architecture. The Mosque-Madrassa al-Ghouri also boasts some splendid stained glass arch windows, a gold coloured carved wood ceiling, and even a large, gothic-looking iron chandelier. As with most mosques, for a little bit of baksheesh you are able to climb the minaret. A thoroughly recommended mosque! NileGuide
contact: 7 Mausoleum of al-Ghouri tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) http://www.touregypt.net/ghuri DESCRIPTION: While Mameluke ruler Qansuh al-Ghuri intended mausoleum.htm this impressive building to be his final resting place, he died in 1516 location: Al-Muezz el-Din Allah Street Cairo
fighting the Turks outside Aleppo and his body was never found. Instead you will find inside the body of Tumanbey, his short-lived successor. This building is famous not so much for its architecture, but for its Sufi dancing demonstrations. These whirling dervishes perform twice weekly, usually Wednesdays and Saturdays at 8p (no ticket required), though visitors should arrive at least an hour earlier to ensure a good seat. The performances involve traditional music and a troupe of dancers performing the samaa, a symbolic dance of a mystical religious nature. Due to high demand and limited space, the shows were recently moved to the Citadel, though it was not clear as to whether this was permanent or not. wCities
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contact: 8 Bab Zwayla tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) http://www.touregypt.net/featu DESCRIPTION: Bab Zwayla is the only surviving southern gate of the restories/zuwayla.htm medieval Fatimid city of al-Qahira. Built in the 10th Century, Bab Zwayla is location: Sharia al-Muizz el-Din Allah Street Cairo
as beautiful as it is imposing: a solid arch framed by chunky round turrets, with graceful minarets piercing the sky. It looks more like the entrance to a castle than to a city! The city wall to the west of the gate is still intact, and you can clearly see the zigzagging battlements with their finely carved decorations. During the Mamluk period, the area in front of Bab Zwayla was used for public gatherings, and dancers and snake charmers performed here. It was especially popular for the macabre entertainment of executions. For a small fee you can enter the western Bab Zwayla gate tower, and climb on to the roof and the city walls. You can even climb most of the way up one of the minarets, and get spectacular views out over Islamic Cairo and the Citadel. Just south of Bab Zwayla, is the Street of the Tentmakers. NileGuide
contact: tel: 20 2 531 6111 / 20 2 531 6222 http://www.aboushakra.com/ location: 69 Kasr El Einy Street Cairo hours: 9a-midnight
9 Abou Shakra
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: If you don't fancy eating in, the restaurant has a take-away and delivery service
DESCRIPTION: A Cairo landmark, this fancy kebab house has been serving locals for over 50 years. There are other branches in Heliopolis and Mohandiseen. This conservative Muslim restaurant is done up in marble and alabaster. Seating is a little tight and the staff can be slow, but customers are always guaranteed an authentic Egyptian experience. The main specialty here is kebabs, with prices calculated per kilo of meat and a host of salads and dips to choose from. Pigeon, chicken and specialty beef dishes are also on the menu. The Egyptian desserts served here are heavenly, with top honors going to the Om Ali (flakey dough with raisins and nuts soaked in sugar and milk). wCities
contact: tel: 20 2 27920878 http://www.egyptmusic.org/ location: 1 Saad Zaghloul St. Cairo 11461
A Makan
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Makan is a small venue, and can get quite busy, so get there early to get a decent seat
DESCRIPTION: Makan is a small venue just south of Downtown Cairo, in an area known as Mounira. It is part of the Egyptian Centre for Culture and Art (ECCA), that aims to record, preserve and present traditional African music in Egypt, making it available to a wider audience. Makan is famous for its Zar performances every Wednesday. Zar was traditionally a healing ceremony, in which the participants use powerful, arrhythmic drumming and chanting to exorcise demons and drive out disease. Women play an important role in this process.
photo courtesy of moftasa
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The Mazaher ensemble that perform at Makan are some of the last remaining Zar practitioners in Egypt, and their style is drawn from different forms of Zar music. They are consummate performers, and the atmosphere is a curious mix of the intimate, the light-hearted, and the intense. As well as the Mazaher ensemble, Makan holds a night every Tuesday called Nass Makan (or People of Makan). This is a fascinating blend of folk music, including gypsy music from the Egyptian delta, musical styles inspired by the Zar, and Sudanese singers and musicians. Whatever you think of the authenticity of performing a healing ritual, Makan is definitely a memorable night out, and well worth a visit if you get the chance. It's very easy to get to, just around the corner from Saad Zaghloul metro station. If you fancy a bite to eat, there are a number of restaurants near by, such as Abou Shakra, or Taboula in Garden City. NileGuide
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Day 4 - Cairo
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: In the morning, hire a taxi to take you to the Citadel. Again, aim to arrive as close to 9 am as possible. You might want to ask your taxi to wait for you for a few hours, so you can use him later in the day. At the Citadel, make sure you visit all three mosques, because they each have their own unique personality. Its best to start with the Mamluk one, then head to the Ottoman mosque (and the old fortress walls) before exploring the Citadels show piece the huge, opulent mosque of Mohammed Ali. Spend some time soaking up the incredible views out over Cairo that the Citadel offers you can really understand why Cairo is known as the city of a thousand minarets. If its a clear day, you may be able to see the Pyramids for the third time. If the idea of uniforms, guns and carriages gets you going, it may be worth checking out the museums in the Citadel complex. There is a Military Museum, Police Museum and even a small Carriage Museum. Depending on how long you spend at the Citadel, and how hungry you are, you might want to eat lunch at the restaurant. The food is pretty good, but be warned that it can work out quite expensive. If you dont eat here, you will have to try to grab a snack in the street later on. Once you are finished at the Citadel, get your taxi driver to drop you off at Ibn Tulun Mosque. Again, you could ask him to wait for you here if you want. Note that it is only a short walk from the Citadel to Ibn Tulun, if you fancy trying it: just head down al-Salbiya street, and dont be afraid to ask for directions. This huge mosque is considered to be the oldest in Egypt that has survived in its original form. Make sure you check out the floral friezes that run around the arches, because local legend maintains they were originally a part of Noahs Ark. Climb the unique, spiral minaret for yet another perspective of Cairo from on high. Next to Ibn Tulun Mosque is the zany Gayer-Anderson Museum, home to an eclectic collection of art and furnishings from all over the Near East. This is a great place to get some photos of beautifully restored, 16th Century Arabic architecture. Thursday night is the start of the weekend in Cairo, so head to Downtown restaurant/bar After Eight for your dinner. They will almost certainly have some sort of live band playing, and you might end up dancing on the tables with some new Egyptian friends. Since its so popular, its best to reserve in advance. If After Eight has wet your appetite for partying, grab a taxi to the Cairo Jazz Club and dance the rest of the night away with the beautiful people. Just remember you have another full day tomorrow!
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contact: tel: +20 2 512 9619 location: Salah Salem Highway Cairo
1 The Citadel
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: The Citadel is very popular with school parties, so be prepared to be mobbed if your visits coincide!
DESCRIPTION: The Citadel is one of Cairos most popular and readily identifiable attractions. In the 12th Century AD Salah ad-Din (known as Saladin in the west) recognised that Cairo needed a fortress to help protect the city against attack by the Crusaders. He chose this prominent limestone spur, that is now on the edge of what is known as Islamic Cairo, for his stronghold. It later became the seat of government, until the middle of the 19th Century. It has always maintained some sort of military garrison, even up to the present day. The Citadel offers some of the most spectacular views of Cairo, and its great fun trying to identify sights from here that you have already visited. You should even be able to make out the Pyramids! It also contains three mosques that represent very different architectural styles: the Mamluk an-Nasir Mohammed Mosque, the Ottoman Suleiman Pasha Mosque, and the Mohammed Ali Mosque. The latter is huge and opulent, and its spires dominate the skyline of Cairo. As well as the views, fortifications and mosques, the Citadel has a number of museums: the Military Museum; the Police Museum; al-Gawhara Palace Museum; and the Carriage Museum. The Citadel is best reached by taxi. Just next door are the Sultan Hassan Mosque and al-Refa'i Mosque, and it's also possible to walk towards Ibn Tulun Mosque and the GayerAnderson Museum, or even to Khan el-Khalili bazaar. NileGuide
location: The Citadel Cairo 11211
2 Citadel: An-Nasir Mohammed Mosque

DESCRIPTION: The an-Nasir Mohammed Mosque is the oldest of the three mosques in the Citadel. Its a Mamluk mosque, built by an-Nasir Mohammed in 1318, and then re-built in 1335. The an-Nasir Mohammed Mosque used to be the royal mosque of Cairo, where the sultans would pray, and would have been one of the most magnificent in the city. However, its original dome collapsed some time in the 16th Century, and the Ottomans stripped the mosque of much of its marble. Nowadays, although an-Nasir Mohammed Mosque has been restored, it still feels rather austere. The courtyard and the mihrab are very simple, although the interior of the mosque does have a row of unusual, arched windows. The most interesting thing about an-Nasir Mohammed Mosque is the minarets. The minaret to the north, which would have faced the dwellings of the officers and soldiers garrisoned in the Citadel, is very plain. The minaret to the west, however, faced the Sultans residences. Its elegantly
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carved in a zigzag pattern, and has a tip that is unique in Cairo: a small dome resting on a solid, tapered stone column, that looks a bit like a kings sceptre. Its decorated with blue, green and white glazed tiles, that are known as faience mosaics, and were popular in Persia at the time. NileGuide
contact: Citadel: Mohammed Ali Mosque tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) DESCRIPTION: The Mohammed Ali Mosque was built over a period of http://www.touregypt.net/alab about 20 years in the early part of the 19th Century, and was completed in 1848, though its domes had to be entirely rebuilt during the 1930s. astermosque.htm location: Citadel Historic Complex Cairo hours: Call for timings
Also known as the Alabaster Mosque, the Mohammed Ali Mosque was built in the classical Ottoman style, and its huge domes and soaring minarets are the most famous landmark of Cairos skyline. It is not, however, particularly graceful from up close, and it has received a lot of criticism. It has even been likened to a fat cat and a huge toad! The interior of the Mohammed Ali Mosque is grand, bordering on garish: great chandeliers illuminate the huge, domed space, and cast light on the technicolour marble walls. There is colourful, gilded wood and gold in abundance. No matter what you think of its artistic, the Mosque of Mohammed Ali is undeniably spectacular! The great man himself is buried in an ornate, white marble tomb to the right of the entrance. The courtyard of the Mohammed Ali Mosque is also interesting: there is an elaborately decorated marble fountain with carved wooden roof in the centre of the huge, square courtyard. At the west of the courtyard is a large iron clock that was given to Mohammed Ali by King Louis-Philippe of France, as a thankyou for the ancient Egyptian obelisk that stands in Place de la Concorde in Paris. The clock has never worked! NileGuide
contact: 3 Ibn Tulun Mosque tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) http://www.touregypt.net/ibntu OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: lunmosque.htm location: Off 'Abd al-Magid al-Labban (Al-Salbiyya) Street Cairo
If you experience a sense of dj-vu, its because part of James Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me was filmed at Ibn Tulun Mosque!
DESCRIPTION: This beautiful mosque is considered to be the oldest in Cairo that has survived in its original form, and is the third largest in the world by area. Completed in 879 AD, Ibn Tulun Mosque was built by Ahmed ibn Tulun, founder of the Talunid dynasty that was ruling Egypt at the end of the 9th Century. The mosque consists of a huge open courtyard, including fountain, and is surrounded on three sides by enclosed wings known as ziyadas. The art and architecture of Ibn Tulun Mosque has a distinct Iraqi flavour (Ahmed Ibn Tulun was born in Baghdad) make sure you check out the crenulated tops of the walls, which look like the paper-chain dolls that children cut out. Interestingly, a local legend claims the mosque was built on the hill where Noahs Ark landed after the flood, and that the floral frieze that runs around the arches was originally carved on to the ark. Finally, a trip to Ibn Tulun Mosque is not complete without climbing its minaret. With the staircase spiralling up the outside of the tower, the minaret is unique in Cairo, and offers fantastic views of the city.
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Ibn Tulun Mosque is next to the Gayer-Anderson Museum, and a short hop from the Citadel and the other sites of Islamic Cairo. The best way to visit is by taxi. NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 2 364 7822 location: 4 Maydan Ibn Tulun Cairo
4 Gayer-Anderson Museum
DESCRIPTION: The Gayer-Anderson museum is formed from two houses of the 15th and 16th centuries joined by a bridge. The houses use the outer wall of Ibn Tulun Mosque for support, and were nearly knocked down in 1928. Luckily, they were so well preserved that they were spared, and in 1935 a British Major called John Gayer-Anderson was given permission to move in. He oversaw restoration of the houses, and filled them with his own personal, eclectic collection of art and furnishings from the Near East. The Gayer-Anderson Museum is jampacked with Islamic history of all kinds, and even includes an interesting section inspired by ancient Egypt. Like the adjacent Ibn Tulun Mosque, the Gayer-Andersen Museum was used as a location in Bond film The Spy Who Loved Me; and it is said to be protected by the spirit of a Muslim sheikh who will blind would-be robbers! As with most sites in Cairo, its easiest to get here by taxi. NileGuide
contact: 5 After Eight tel: 20 10 339 8000 http://www.after8cairo.com/De fault.aspx OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: location: 6 Kasr El Nil Street Cairo Giza hours: 8pm-2am (until 3am Thu & Fri)
Reservation at After Eight is a must

DESCRIPTION: After Eight is a lively bar-restaurant that plays regular host to some of Cairo's hottest live music acts. While the food is OK, people come here for the music, and most acts start around 10 pm. The music policy is varied, and includes modern and oriental Jazz, Nubian music, and even Rai (a sort of North African blend of pop and traditional music). They sometimes have a DJ, and host a regular karaoke night. After Eight can get quite crowded and smoky, and it's best to get there before the music starts if you want to eat. An over 25's policy is enforced, and couples are preferred. Reservation at After Eight is necessary. NileGuide
contact: tel: 20 2 345 9939 fax: 20 2 347 4819 http://www.cairojazzclub.com/ location: 197, 26th July Street Cairo hours: Daily 5p-3a
6 Cairo Jazz Club

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: The Cairo Jazz Club is actually quite small, so if you want any chance of a seat, you need to get here early. It gets really busy as the night wears on.
DESCRIPTION: The Cairo Jazz Club does not just play jazz. Tucked away in the middle of nowhere on the border of Agouza and Mohandiseen, the Cairo Jazz club plays every type of music... along with the occasional night of jazz! It puts a different night on each day of the week. Sometimes it will be a DJ spinning the latest hip hop and R&B, other
Photo courtesy of Cairo Jazz Club
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times it will be 70s cheese. At least twice a week there are live bands, from unknown cover bands to well-established outfits such as the super-lively Wust al-Balad. The bond that ties this eclectic policy together is coolness. Not of the acts, which to be fair vary greatly. No, its the crowd at the Cairo Jazz Club thats cool. Rich young Egyptians and foreign AUC students make up most of the clientele, though the occasional expat might stumble in after work, and tourists sometimes find their way too. Despite being ultra-hip, the atmosphere is very welcoming, and as you dance the night away amongst the sweaty, heaving masses, you feel as though you could be in any city in the world. There is no entrance fee, though there is a door policy of sorts: if the bouncers dont like the look of you, they wont let you in! If you look like youve made some sort of effort, and you are friendly and polite, then you should have no trouble. What the Cairo Jazz Club loses in entrance fees, it makes up for in drinks prices. Youll probably find you are having such a good time, though, that youll forget about the bar. Food is also served. NileGuide
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Day 5 - Cairo
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Today is another Pharaonic day, and its going to be a long one! Arrange to hire a taxi for the whole day, and leave early to get to Memphis by 9 am. Memphis was where it all began, the original capital of ancient Egypt, and would have been a spectacular city in its day. Unfortunately there is not much to see here now, but its worth visiting for a sense of completeness. You wont want any more than an hour here, and once you are done, its a short drive to get to Saqqara. . . Youre going to want a good few hours at Saqqara, because its a huge site: home to the first pyramid ever built, and a number of tombs and other monuments. In contrast with the Giza Plateau, relatively few tourists visit Saqqara, so the site is a very atmospheric place to wander around. Make sure you take sun protection and plenty of water though, because there isnt much shade. . . Start out at the museum, to give you an overview of what you are going to see, before heading to the main site. If so inclined, you could hire a guide to help you find your way around, although this is not necessary provided you have a map of the site. Spend some time exploring the area around the Step Pyramid and Funerary Complex of Djoser, before getting your taxi to take you to the tombs towards the north of the site. Make sure not to miss the Mastaba of Ti, whose detailed reliefs have provided Egyptologists with a wealth of information about everyday life in the Old Kingdom. . . Once you have had enough of Saqqara, drive to Dahshur to visit the Red and Bent Pyramids. Its about a half an hour drive, maybe more if the traffic is bad, so you might want to get lunch before you leave. The restaurant at the Saqqara visitors centre is pretty good; if this doesnt take your fancy, ask your driver to stop somewhere along the way for you to pick up some snacks. . . Even fewer tourists visit Dahshur than Saqqara, and you may be lucky enough to have the site to yourself. Its the home of the second and third pyramids ever built. They were both built by Sneferu, father of Cheops (builder of the Great Pyramid). The earlier Bent Pyramid was a partially successful attempt to build a true pyramid, rather than a stepped one. However, the structure started showing signs of stress after being half built, so the architect reduced the angle of the slope from 54 to 43 degrees, giving the pyramid its wonky shape. Unfortunately, the police will often not let you visit the Bent Pyramid, although you can admire it from afar. . .
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The first true pyramid in Egypt was the Red Pyramid, so named because of the slightly red hue of its building blocks. This is the third largest pyramid in Egypt (after the Great and Second Pyramids of the Giza Plateau) and you can go inside it. Even if youve been inside a pyramid already, its still worth entering the Red Pyramid because the internal structure is a bit more interesting: there are a few antechambers which precede the burial chamber, which have an interesting, vaulted roof structure. A word of warning, however, entering this pyramid is quite physically demanding: for Indiana-Jones wannabes only! Firstly, its a steep climb to get to the entrance (over 100 steep steps), and the interior passages are very cramped. Also, it sometimes has a very acrid smell, almost like ammonia, which can make breathing difficult. However, if this doesnt put you off, you should certainly visit. . . This evening you are going to go to the spectacular Sound and Light show at the Pyramids of Giza. The itinerary varies throughout the year, so you must call in advance to confirm the time of the performance. You should have time to return to your hotel beforehand to relax for a while, and grab a bite to eat. If possible, have dinner at Cedars restaurant in Mohandiseen: fantastic Lebanese food at reasonable prices, with great shisha pipes. The restaurant is very popular with locals, and if you sample their mezze selection, you will see why! If pushed for time, you could go straight from Dahshur to the Sphinx for the Sound and Light show, and grab a bite to eat nearby. Alternatively, Cedars is open late, so you could always go there after the performance.
location: 24 kilometres south of Cairo Cairo
1 Memphis
DESCRIPTION: Legend has it that Memphis was founded by King Menes around 3100 BC, when he unified Upper and Lower Egypt. Memphis was the capital city of Egypt during the Old Kingdom, and remained an important religious and administrative centre throughout the whole of the Pharaonic period. Memphis is a Greek name; the ancient Egyptians knew the city as Ineb Hedj ("The White Walls"), and later as Ankh Tawy ("That Which Binds the Two Lands"). No-one knows for sure how large the city was, with population estimates ranging from 6000 to 30,000. It is known to have been advanced, cosmopolitan, and teeming with palaces, temples and gardens; given the size of the associated necropolis, stretching from Dahshur to Giza, Memphis itself was probably very large. Sadly, most of the city now lies under fields, Nile silt and nearby villages and only a few ruins hold testament to the ancient splendour that was Memphis. Although there is not much here anymore, the incredible significance of the site might justify a visit. As well as pretty gardens and the odd statue and temple fragment, there is a huge colossus of Ramses the Second, and a large alabaster sphinx ascribed to Thutmosis III. The present-day site is about 20 km south of Cairo, and is best visited by taxi. If you are going to go, its a good idea to combine it with a visit to nearby Saqqara. NileGuide
photo courtesy of Marm Frielink
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contact: http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: North Saqqara Cairo 12561
2 Step Pyramid of Saqqara

DESCRIPTION: This is where it all began! The Step Pyramid of Saqqara is the oldest complete cut-stone building in the world. It was designed by the high priest and architect Imhotep for the 3rd dynasty pharaoh Djoser (about 2667 2648 BC). Before this pyramid, the pharaohs were buried beneath rectangular tombs known as mastabas (which means bench in Arabic). Imhotep (who was later deified) stacked 6 mastabas on top of each other to create the first ever pyramid, which served as inspiration for the later structures at Giza and beyond. The Step Pyramid of Saqqara is a truly incredible achievement, and despite standing for nearly 5000 years it is still pretty much intact. It is part of a much larger site that acted as a necropolis for the ancient Egyptians for over 3000 years. The whole area is littered with other pyramids and mastaba tombs, such as the Pyramid of Unas, the Serapeum, and the Mastaba of Ti. Some of these other monuments are open check at the ticket office when you arrive. Despite its significance, Saqqara receives a disproportionately small number of visitors, and is a very atmospheric place to wander around and explore on your own. There is isnt much shade, so make sure to cover up and take plenty of water. The best way to get here is by taxi, and its possible to combine your visit with nearby Memphis. NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 2 285 4509 (Tourist information) http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: North East of Serapeum, Saqqara Cairo 12561
3 Saqqara: Mastaba of Ti
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: If you have come to Saqqara by car, have the car drop you off near the tomb and walk the 10 minutes from there. It is possible to ride a camel the short distance to the tomb if you dont feel like walking, but make sure you haggle hard!
DESCRIPTION: Northwest of Zosers funerary complex in Saqqara, near to the Serapeum and amongst a field of 3rd dynasty tombs, lies the Mastaba of Ti. Ti was an important court dignitary during the early 5th Dynasty, whose wife was of noble blood, and whose children were therefore recognised as being of royal descent. His main function was as one of the pharaohs chief hairdressers, though he was also responsible for maintaining farming land and stock. The Mastaba of Ti was discovered in 1865 by Auguste Mariette, and has provided a wealth of information about life in the Old Kingdom. This large tomb consists of a main room with a shaft leading down to the burial chamber, and a passageway leading to two other rooms. Much of the Mastaba of Ti is covered with remarkably preserved, colourful reliefs of scenes from daily life, such as hunting and fishing, boat building and tannery. The reliefs have been used to infer much information about Old Kingdom times, though its likely their true significance is allegorical, and related to ancient Egyptian belief systems and symbolism. It is possible to go down the shaft in the Mastaba of Ti to view the burial chamber: the shaft is cramped and you will need to bend over double, but it is very short. The burial chamber contains Tis plain sarcophagus, though there is nothing else to see. Note that although you do not have to pay extra to visit the Mastaba of Ti, the caretakers will expect a little baksheesh for taking you down the shaft to the burial chamber. NileGuide
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contact: http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: Near by Step Pyramid Cairo 12561 hours: 9a-4.30p daily. contact: tel: +20 (0)2 386 3469 / +20 (0)2 385 2880 / +20 (0)2 285 4509 (Egyptian Tourist Authority) fax: +20 (0)2 384 4257 / +20 (0)2 285 4363 (Egyptian Tourist Authority) http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: Giza Pyramids Plateau Cairo 12561
4 Saqqara: Mastaba of Ankh-Mahor

DESCRIPTION: Dating from the VI Dynasty, this Mastaba is often called the Physician's Tomb. In actual fact, Ankh Mahor was a ka-priest, not a physician. The medical scenes in the doorway to the tomb suggest that there was a connection between religion, magic and medicine for ancient peoples. Unfortunately, the reliefs in this temple are not in mint condition. So, if you're already feeling hot and stuffy, it's advisable to move on to the next temple on your itinerary. wCities
5 Giza Pyramids: Sound and Light
Show
DESCRIPTION: The commentary might not impress you, but the dazzling light show and awe-inspiring backdrop of the Sphinx and Pyramids surely will. Three times a night in three different languages, the Sphinx plays the role of storyteller, narrating the history of ancient Egypt. Shows are held in English, French, Spanish, Italian, Japanese, Russian and Arabic. Call ahead to check the time of the performance you want to attend; private viewing times can be arranged. The desert's cold in the evenings, so make sure to carry along something to keep you warm. wCities
contact: tel: +20 2 285 4509 (Tourist information) http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: Beside Step Pyramid Cairo 12561 hours: Call for details contact: tel: +20 2 285 4509 (Tourist information) http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: Step Pyramid of Djoser Cairo 12561 hours: Call for details
6 Saqqara: Mastaba of Kagemni

DESCRIPTION: The scenes painted on the walls of this tomb are delightful. There are particularly wonderful scenes of fish, crocodiles, grasshoppers, dragonflies, frogs, geese, hyenas; it is a true nature lover's delight. This tomb is often compared to the nearby tomb of Mereruka. While Mereruka's tomb is larger and the reliefs are more numerous, this tomb far exceeds it in the fine details of its delightful reliefs are not to be missed. wCities
7 Saqqara: Mastaba of Mereruka

DESCRIPTION: Just to the north-west of the Pyramid of Teti in Saqqara is the Mastaba of Mereruka. Mereruka was the pharaoh Tetis highest court official, during the 6th Dynasty. Covering an area of over 1000 sq m, and with 32 separate chambers, the Mastaba of Mereruka is the largest known tomb belonging to a court official in the Old Kingdom. There are pillared hallways, offering rooms, and the burial rooms themselves. Mererukas wife, who was a priestess of Hathor (and daughter of Teti), was also buried in the Mastaba of Mereruka, as was his eldest son. The Mastaba of Mereruka contains the usual range of daily life scenes, especially of hunting and farming, and some of the reliefs are very well preserved. The main, columned offering hall in the Mastaba of Mereruka contains a life-sized statue of the vizier emerging from a false door to receive the offerings left for him. NileGuide
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contact: tel: 2033472537 location: 42 Gezirat el Arab Cairo hours: Daily 12p-2a
Cedars Restaurant
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: If the weather is mild, try to get a seat out on the patio to enjoy your meal
DESCRIPTION: Cedars restaurant in Mohandiseen offers up good quality Lebanese food in relaxed surroundings. It's very popular with locals, and always busy, though you can sometimes find a quiet(ish) corner. Cedars has a great range of mezzes - the tabouleh, sogoq (spicy Arabian sausages), and vine leaves are particularly good. Mains include a typical range of grills and sandwiches, and lots of offal. Their halloumi sandwich is wonderful, as is the fattah. Cedars doesn't serve alcohol, though they have a wide range of delicious seasonal juices - the watermelon is particularly good if you catch it. Cedars is famous for its shisha pipes (the Egyptian water pipe), and with loads of waiting staff, the service is excellent. They also have a patio you can dine on. NileGuide
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Day 6 - Cairo
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Spend the morning exploring Coptic Cairo, the old Christian quarter of Cairo. Either come by taxi or, if you are feeling adventurous, take the metro from Sadat Station south to Mar Girgis. . . The beautiful cobbled streets of Coptic Cairo are a wonderful place to meander around, taking in all of the religious monuments. Start your visit at the Coptic Museum (opposite Mar Girgis metro station) and spend an hour or so there, tracing the evolution of Coptic Christianity. Make sure you also visit the Hanging Church and the Cathedral of St George, before walking down the cobbled alleyway that leads to the picturesque, enclosed religion compound behind the main street. Here you will find numerous other churches, including the Church of St Sergius, where the Holy Family are believed to have sheltered. Dont miss the Ben Ezra Synagogue, the oldest in Cairo, and take the time to check out the book shop that spills into the main alleyway: its one of the best places in Cairo to pick up books about Egypt, the Middle East, and different forms of religion. . . The oldest mosque in Cairo, the Mosque of Amr Ibn al-Aas, is well worth a visit. You can get there by walking along Mar Girgis street, or by wandering through the serene Coptic cemetery. Make sure you also find time to visit the craft shops along Mar Girgis street: the vendors are very friendly, and poking around the bric-a-brac can turn up some antique gems. There is also a covered souq called Souq al-Fustat on the right of Mar Girgis street, just before the mosque, which contains traditional craft-work. . . Depending on how long you spend in Coptic Cairo and you could easily spend all day there you might want to get lunch in one of the many simple cafes along Mar Girgis street; otherwise, pick up something in town later on. . . In the evening, take a taxi to Khan al-Khalili and go the Sufi Dancers show at the Wikala of al-Ghouri. The show is a colourful demonstration of the spectacular Whirling Dervish style of Sufi worship (strictly, the Whirling Dervishes are a Turkish Sufi sect), and will make you dizzy just watching it! The show is free, and starts at 8.30 pm. Its best to arrive early to get a good seat. You can either grab dinner beforehand in the surrounding area, or head back downtown afterwards. A good suggestion for a Saturday night is the Greek Club, just off Talaat Harb square: cheap and cheerful, with an open air courtyard that is the perfect place, weather permitting, to sip your post-dinner ouzo and chat the night away.
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contact: tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) location: Mar Girgis Street Cairo hours: Call for timings
1 Babylon Fort
DESCRIPTION: The remains of the Babylon Fort mark the gateway into what is known as Coptic Cairo. People often refer to the area as Old Cairo, or Fustat, since this is where the first invading Arab armies settled. The varied nomenclature can be confusing, and misleading. In fact, there was a city called Kheraha here in ancient Egyptian times, that was an important regional capital. When, how and why the name changed to Babylon is debated, but it appears that the Persians built the first fort here, some time in the 6th Century BC. At that time Babylon Fort stood on top of the cliffs (probably the Muqattam Hills), but when the Romans invaded, they rebuilt the fort in its current position, which would have been right next to the Nile (the rivers course has changed significantly over time). The Babylon Fort protected an important garrison town, which by the time of the first Arab invasion in the 7th Century, had a successful port as well as a canal linking the Nile to the Red Sea (constructed in pharaonic times). The original Arab city, Fustat, was actually built just outside the walls of Babylon Fort; interestingly, many of the churches in the area were not built until after the Arab conquest. All that really remains of Babylon Fort now are the remnants of the huge round towers that guarded the entrances to the fort. As you face the Coptic Museum, you can see the skeletal remains of one tower to the right; the Greek Orthodox Church of St George is built on top of the remains of the second tower, to the left. NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 2 362 8766 / + 20 2 363 9742 http://www.copticmuseum.go v.eg/ location: Mar Guirguis Street Cairo
2 The Coptic Museum

DESCRIPTION: The Coptic Museum houses the largest collection of Coptic artefacts in the world, with over 16,000 pieces on display. Copt comes from the Greek word for Egypt, and Coptic Christians are Egyptian Christians. Mark the Evangelist is credited with introducing Christianity to Egypt in the first century after Christ, and with similarities to aspects of ancient Egyptian belief, it quickly took hold. The Coptic Museum traces the development of Christianity in Egypt from its beginnings to the present. The museum is housed in a beautiful old building in the precinct of the old Roman Babylon Fort, and artefacts are spread out over two floors. The objects displayed are varied, and include art in various mediums such as metal, stone and wood, as well as manuscripts and textiles. A large part of the appeal is that the Coptic Museum forges a link between the worlds of ancient Egypt, Christianity and Islam. For example, it is fascinating to see how the ankh symbol of Egypt gradually evolved into the Christian cross known today. The museum also includes very beautiful gardens that provide a wonderful place to relax.
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The Coptic Museum is situated in the heart of Old Cairo, amongst the other buildings that make up the Religion Compound. As well as by taxi, it is easy to get here by Metro get off at Mar Girgis station, and the museum is directly opposite. NileGuide
contact: 3 The Hanging Church tel: +20 (0)2 285 4509 (Tourist Information) fax: +20 (0)2 285 4363 DESCRIPTION: The Hanging Church is also known as The Saint Virgin (Tourist Information) Mary Coptic Orthodox Church. It is the most famous Coptic church in location: Mar Girgis Street Cairo
Cairo, and one of the oldest Coptic churches in Egypt that is still in use. The Hanging Church was probably built towards the end of the 7th Century AD, though it is believed there was an earlier church here dating to the 3rd or 4th Century. By the 11th Century AD it became the official seat of residence of the head of the Coptic Church (the Patriarch of Alexandria). It is part of the Religion Compound of Old Cairo, and is known as the Hanging Church because it is built over the gate of the southern tower of the Roman Fortress, Babylon on the Nile. Its nave is suspended over the passage (the church is known as al Muallaqa in Arabic, which means the suspended). Make sure you look down through the plastic viewing ports in the floor to see the proof that you are not actually on the ground! The Hanging Church is lavishly decorated, with a beautiful vaulted wooden ceiling, marble columns and pulpit, and lots of ebony and ivory screens. It also contains over 100 religious icons, the oldest of which dates to the 8th Century. Services still take place here in the ancient Coptic language, believed to be related to ancient Egyptian. The Hanging Church can be reached by taxi, or take the Metro to Mar Girgis station and the church is just in front of the station entrance. NileGuide
location: Mar Girgis Street Cairo hours: 9am-4.30pm daily.
Greek Church of Saint George (Mari Girgis)

DESCRIPTION: The only round church in Egypt, the present church dedicated to Saint George (Mar Girgis) was built in 1904 after a fire destroyed the 10th century original, which had been built on top of a Roman tower. The church has changed hands frequently between the Coptic and Greek Orthodox churches, but has been the latter since the 15th century. Outside a relief portrays Saint George and the Dragon, inside the dark incense-filled chamber features portraits of Greek Orthodox saints. wCities
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location: Near Mari Girgis Street Cairo 11728
4 Church of Abu Serga (St Sergius)

DESCRIPTION: This, one of the oldest churches in Cairo, is built on the site where the Holy Family allegedly rested at the end of their journey to Egypt. Built in the 4th Century CE, it subsequently burned down in the great fire of Fustat around 750. It was restored in the 8th Century and has been renovated many times since then. The Church is dedicated to St. Sergius and St. Bacchustwo Roman soldier-saints who were martyred during the 4th Century in the reign of Roman Emperor Maximian. The most interesting feature is the crypt where Mary, Joseph and the infant Jesus are said to have rested. The crypt is ten meters (33 feet) deep and, when Nile levels are high, is often flooded. wCities
location: Religion Compound Cairo 11728
5 Coptic Cemetery of Old Cairo

DESCRIPTION: This picturesque and serene cemetery is one of the prettiest cemeteries in Egypt. The gravestones are wonderfully ornate with many statues of angels, saints, doves, crosses and the like. The cemetery is within the Religion Compound. If you happy to be in the cemetery when a funeral is taking place, you will witness the ancient Egyptian custom of wailing at funerals. These wailing women can be seen pictures on the murals and reliefs of the tombs of the ancient Egyptians, and also here and now in modern Egypt where women often wail so loud that the entire compound learns of the departure of the loved one. wCities
contact: 6 Ben Ezra Synagogue tel: +20 (0)2 285 4509 (Tourist Information) fax: +20 (0)2 285 4363 DESCRIPTION: The exodus of Jews out of Egypt in 1956 and 1967 left (Tourist Information) Cairo's 26 synagogues derelict. This historical synagogue might have location: Coptic Cairo quarter Cairo hours: Call for details
disappeared altogether if not for the efforts of a few who maintained it until foreign and Egyptian governments provided funding for its repair. Today it is fully restored, though you won't find any services because there is no rabbi. The synagogue claims to be built on the site where pharaoh's daughter found Moses in the bulrushes and Mary centuries later bathed Jesus. A temple of the Prophet Jeremiah is said to have stood here, and he himself is rumored to buried under the foundation. In 1896 the Ginesa documents were found in the synagogues storerooms, offering deep insights into the social, political and economic life of Jews in Fatamid Cairo. wCities
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contact: 7 Amr Ibn el-Aas Mosque tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) http://www.touregypt.net/AmrI DESCRIPTION: The oldest mosque in Africa, prayers are still bnMosque.htm held in this large mosque dating back to 641 CE. Muslim leader location: Sidi Hasan al-Anwar Street Cairo hours: Call for timings contact: tel: +20 2 285 4509 (Tourist Information) fax: +20 2 285 4363 (Tourist Information) location: Muhammad 'Abduh Street Cairo 11211
Amr Ibn el-Aas is said to have ordered its construction upon receiving a sign from God in the form of a dove nesting in his tent. When the doves brood was raised, the mosque was built on the site. It has been altered throughout the centuries and incorporates many different styles. No two of its 150 columns are identical. wCities
8 Wikala of Al-Ghouri
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: The free Sufi dancing show at the Wikala al-Ghouri is well worth attending, but make sure you arrive early to avoid disappointment.
DESCRIPTION: The Wikala al-Ghouri was built in the 16th Century by Qansuh al-Ghouri, the penultimate Mamluk sultan. A Wikala was a warehouse and merchants hostel, and the Wikala al-Ghouri has been carefully restored. You have to pay 15 LE to enter. It is very complete, with a huge open courtyard and a maze of stairs and passageways leading around the different floors. There is a marble fountain in the middle of the courtyard. Many of the old rooms have been turned into miniature crafts centres, and its possible to see workers producing leather ware, jewellery, paintings and so on. The combination of dark mashrabia windows on each room, and the striped marble building materials, is very effective; and although the Wikala al-Ghouri is very simple, it is deceptively beautiful. Every Wednesday and Saturday evening there is a free Sufi dancing show held in the courtyard. The show begins at 8.30 pm, though you should arrive by 8 if possible, to get a good seat. The show is absolutely incredible: the dancers spin in place, whipping their brightly coloured skirts into a mesmerising kaleidoscope of patterns. At the end of the dance, they simply walk off without a wobble, as if they havent just been spinning around in a circle for ages. Its dizzying just watching them! NileGuide
photo courtesy of kudumomo
contact: tel: 20 2 575 0822 location: 28 Mahmoud Bassyouni Street Cairo 11111 hours: Daily 8pm-2am
Greek Club (The)

OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: You can take your own bottles of spirits to the Greek Club and just pay corkage
DESCRIPTION: Situated just off Midan Talaat Harb in Downtown, the Greek Club is open to everyone. Non-members have to pay an entrance fee of 5 LE, and there is a cover charge of 1 LE and a minimum charge of 30 LE. You get far more than you pay for, however, because the Greek Club is in some ways one gorgeous contradiction. The dining room is minimalist elegance personified: an open, almost breezy space with high, vaulted ceilings and ridged columns. The colour scheme is yellow and cream with deep red trim, which also extends to the tables dotted
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about the vast room. The walls are livened up with the occasional colourful painting. At odds with the sophisticated surroundings of the Greek Club, is the informal vibe. The staff are very friendly, and the atmosphere can border on the raucous. The high ceilings do nothing to swallow the babble of voices, which even drown out the traditional Greek music playing through chunky speakers. The menu at the Greek Club is not that comprehensive: there are some mezze, a suitably delicious Greek salad, chicken escallops, and a fair bit of seafood (the calamari is divine), but no moussaka. The food is cheap and cheerful, and for a downtown bar, the drinks prices are criminally low. As well as beer and wine, ouzo is also available. NileGuide
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Day 7 - Cairo
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Head to Manyal Palace first thing in the morning. There is an interesting palace to explore here, and a tranquil garden, but the real reason to visit is to check out the totally bizarre hunting museum. This is not for the squeamish, or the politically correct, because its chock-full of the former kings of Egypts hunting trophies. There are numerous mounted Ibex heads, elephant tusks, and a even a stuffed lion. The strangest exhibits are the diorama of a lobster attacking a crab, and the display of an ostrich head and feet, yet no body! . . From here, take a taxi back to Khan al-Khalili. This is your last chance to pick up those souvenirs and presents that have so far eluded you. Once you are done in the Khan, head north up al-Muizz li-Din-Allah street, to the west of the market. This street takes you past a series of stalls selling household goods and shisha spare parts, as well as the garlic market. . . There are a wealth of beautiful Islamic monuments along this street that have been lovingly restored. Make sure you pop in to the Beit alSouhaymi a fine example of 17th Century Islamic architecture. Also make sure you visit the stunning al-Hakim mosque at the north end of the road. . . Take your lunch at Zizos, a Cairo institution located opposite the northern gate. This spit and sawdust restaurant offers up the finest spicy sausage sandwiches in the whole of Egypt, no contest! . . From here, take a taxi to al-Azhar park, Cairos most attractive green space (and former rubbish tip)! Spend a few hours wandering around the perfectly sculpted gardens, reflecting on the wonderful sights that you have seen over the past week. There are decent cafes and restaurants here if you are in need of a spot of refreshment, and the people-watching is fantastic. Keep your eyes open for young lovers strolling amongst the flowers, coyly holding hands by each grasping one end of a shared mobile phone! Al-Azhar park is one of the best places in Cairo to watch the sunset, as you experience the haunting power of hundreds of mosques announcing the call to prayer at the same time. . . For your final meal, head to Abou el-Sid on Zamalek. This popular Egyptian restaurant serves alcohol, shisha pipes, and some of the finest traditional cuisine in the whole of Egypt. Unless you arrive early, a reservation is essential. Afterwards, return to some of your favourite bars on Zamalek or Downtown, to say your final fond farewell to Cairo.
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contact: 1 Manyal Palace Museum tel: +20 2 368 7495 http://touregypt.net/tawfig/alim useum.htm DESCRIPTION: Manyal Palace Museum was set up by Prince Mohammed Ali Tawfiq, father of location: 1 Saray Street Cairo
King Farouk, in 1899. It was intended to commemorate Islamic Art, as well as to act as living quarters for the Prince and his family. The architecture, decorations and furniture cover a range of Islamic styles, including Moroccan, Persian and Syrian. The sheer opulence of the dwelling is overwhelming. The Manyal Palace Museum is set in a large garden, populated by rare trees and plants from all over the world. Its a nice place to catch some shade, and perhaps have a bite to eat. The most interesting part of the Manyal Palace Museum is the Hunting Museum, which exhibits possessions and conquests of King Farouk. This museum is totally bizarre, and not for animal lovers or the politically correct. It includes over 100 stuffed and mounted Ibex heads, lots of very pretty insects and butterflies, a diorama of a lobster attacking a crab, and even some huge elephant tusks. Pride of place must go to the photograph of the hermaphroditic goat, or to the ostrich head complete with feet, but no body! The Manyal Palace Museum is situated on Rhoda Island, and so is just about within walking distance of Sayeda Zeinab Metro station; as always, however, taking a taxi is the safest bet. NileGuide
location: Off Hussein Square Cairo 11211
2 Khan el-Khalili Bazaar

DESCRIPTION: Established in the 14th Century, and in constant use since then, Khan al-Khalili (or more simply, The Khan) is Egypt at its most intoxicating. Cairo has always been an important trade centre, and this tradition continues today in the bustling maze of alleys that forms Khan al-Khalili Bazaar. The Khan itself is relatively small, and is largely devoted to tourists. There are souvenirs here for every taste and budget: spices, jewellery, inlaid mother-of-pearl boxes and backgammon sets, water pipes, scarves, lamps, delicate perfume bottles (and the perfume to go in them) you can even get yourself a singing, dancing camel! Be warned, though, the traders here are black belts at haggling so be firm, but maintain your sense of humour and enjoy the experience for what it is: the raucous, beating heart of commerce the old-school way. When the banter gets too much, relax in al-Fishawi Coffee Shop with a water pipe and a strong Turkish coffee. This caf has been open 24 hours a day since 1773, and Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz is said to have visited every day up to his death in 2006. At the east end of the Khan is al-Hussein Square, home to the beautiful al-Hussein Mosque. The western end is bound by Muizz li-Din Allah Street. You can head north to Bab al-Futuh, past Islamic monuments such as al-Aqmar Mosque and Beit al-Souhaymi, or south towards Bab Zwayla and the Street of the Tentmakers. Leading west from Khan al-Khalili towards
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Ataba is al-Muski Street, a crazy local market that is well worth exploring. To get to Khan al-Khalili Bazaar, take a taxi to al-Azhar Mosque and cross the road via the underpass. The more adventurous traveller can walk up to the bazaar from Ataba Metro station, along al-Muski. NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 2 285 4509 http://www.egypt.travel/index. php location: Darb al-Asfar Street Cairo
3 Beit Al Souhaymi
DESCRIPTION: Beit al-Souhaymi is part of the lovingly restored Darb al-Asfar district of Islamic Cairo, situated down an alleyway just past al-Aqmar Mosque. Beit al-Souhaymi is a typical example of the family mansions built in Cairo from the Mamluk period all the way to the 19th Century. It costs 30 LE to enter, but is well worth it. You emerge in to a pretty, tree lined open courtyard complete with singing birds, around which the rest of the house is based. In fact, the Beit alSouhaymi complex actually merges with two other houses to the west. The whole area is a maze of stairs, passageways and hidden rooms, all of which have been restored, and many of which are wonderfully decorated. Spend some time poking around the nooks and crannies, and you will find rooms with colourful marble mosaic floors, vividly painted wooden ceilings, exquisite mashrabia lattice work (to allow the women to observe the goings on in the house without being seen), and ornate mother of pearl chests that have clearly been the inspiration behind many of the souvenirs sold in Khan al-Khalili. You could easily get lost for an hour or two exploring Beit al-Souhaymi; just make sure you finish your visit in the second, even greener, open courtyard, and take a rest before rejoining the hustle and bustle of the outside world! NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 (0)2 285 4509 (Tourist Information) fax: +20 (0)2 285 4363 (Tourist Information) http://www.egypt.travel/upload s/images/egypt_places_to_vis it_cairo_VI0064.jpg location: Al-Mu'izz li-Din Allah Street Cairo
4 Hakim Mosque (Al)

DESCRIPTION: Al-Hakim Mosque was built in the 11th Century by alHakim bi-Amr Allah, one of Egypts most insane, and sadistic rulers. He persecuted Christians, Jews, merchants and women, banned or destroyed everything that annoyed him (including all the citys dogs), and would stand on the heads of his enemies whilst one of his slaves sodomised them. He even had a group of women boiled alive in public. Its ironic, therefore, that the mosque which bears his name is so beautiful! Joining the northern walls, al-Hakim Mosque looks quite plain and solid from the outside, with square towers and an odd style of minaret. There is some delicate Arabic stone filigree work on the arches outside. Inside, however, is a huge open courtyard of blinding white/cream marble, with a deep red marble fountain with white veins running through it. Its simple, but actually quite moving. The main prayer hall still has some original wooden beams, but much of the rest of al-Hakim Mosque was restored in 1980 by a group of Shiite Muslims from Brunei. The main mihrab is of pale marble, with beautiful gold trim and calligraphy. You used to be able to climb on to the city walls from al-Hakim Mosque, but that has been officially banned. That does not mean, however, that you cant ask the caretakers: for a little baksheesh, they may find that they can discover the necessary keys after all. NileGuide
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contact: 5 Bab el-Futuh tel: +20 (0)2 391 3454 (Tourist Information) http://www.touregypt.net/babf DESCRIPTION: In 1087 AD the original mud brick walls of al-Qahira were rebuilt from stone, to utuh.htm protect the city from the menace of the Turks. This explains why Bab al-Futuh, one of the two location: El Muizz El Din Allah Street Cairo
remaining north gates, looks more like it belongs at the entrance of a castle than a city. Joining with the city walls and al-Hakim Mosque, Bab al-Futuh consists of two huge rounded castle-like turrets, bristling with ramparts and defensive arrow-slits, and decorated with a finely carved floral arch. Traditionally, the caravans returning from the annual pilgrimage to Mecca would always enter the city through Bab al-Futuh, welcomed by huge crowds of people that had been unable to make the journey themselves. Interestingly, Bab al-Futuh was actually built from masonry scavenged from ancient Egyptian Memphis, as the carvings on some stones that comprise the building testify. NileGuide
contact: tel: 2025926530 location: 1 Midan Bab al Futuh Cairo hours: Daily 9p-6a
Zizo's
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Zizo is often open during the day as well
DESCRIPTION: Zizo's, situated opposite the north gate (Bab al Futuh) of Islamic Cairo, is one of the city's best kept secrets. Founded by colourful owner Abdel-Aziz Mustafa Hamzah (aka Zizo) in the 60's, Zizo's specialises in spicy sogoq sandwiches, Alexandria style. The sandwiches are incredibly tasty, and dirt cheap, though be warned that they have quite a kick. Zizo's is also renowned for the quality of its offal, and the brains are particularly well regarded. Zizo himself still runs this tiny, spit and sawdust-type restaurant, as well as making the amazing pickles that accompany his food. He's a very friendly character, that loves to welcome and chat with his guests. Zizo's is very near Khan el Khalili, so is the perfect place to refuel after a spot of shopping, perhaps before heading to the nearby cities of the dead. NileGuide
contact: tel: +20 2 510 3868 / +20 2 510 7378 fax: +20 2 512 1054 http://www.alazharpark.com/ location: Salah Salem Street Cairo 11562
6 Al Azhar Park
DESCRIPTION: Covering an area of about 30 hectares, al-Azhar Park is the largest expanse of green in Cairo. Established by the Aga Khan Trust For Culture in 1984, it was built over the top of a huge pile of rubble that had been turned in to a rubbish tip. Dont let this put you off: al-Azhar Park is a peaceful oasis on the edge of the chaos that is Islamic Cairo. Paths meander through idyllic gardens, and you are never far from one of the many water features. Its a great place to relax, and many people take a picnic. If youd rather be waited upon, there are four restaurant/cafes located in the grounds. Because al-Azhar Park is on a hill, you get amazing views all over Cairo. On a clear day you can even see the Pyramids! As with much of Cairo, the best bit is people-watching: old men reminiscing on benches, children playing leapfrog, and daring young lovers holding hands as they stroll through their own little world. If history is your thing, then check out the 800 year-old Ayyubid wall that has been partially restored. If music is more your scene, then ask at the information desk about up-andcoming concerts; many of them are free! Al-Azhar Park is a perfect place to chill out after youve tackled some of the nearby sights of Islamic Cairo, such as Khan al-
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Khalili or the Citadel. You can get here by taxi, or even walk up from Khan al-Khalili. NileGuide
contact: tel: 20122136292 www.abouelsid.com location: 14 Hassan Sabry street Cairo hours: 12p-2a daily
Abou el Sid
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Finding shisha and beer together in a restaurant is rare, so make the most of it
DESCRIPTION: Abou el Sid, located on Zamalek, offers excellent, authentic Egyptian cuisine in very atmospheric surroundings. Dcor is traditional Arabesque, heavy on the mashrabiyya wooden panelling, but the atmosphere is lively and the staff friendly. Abou el Sid is an excellent place to share a selection of mouth-watering mezzes, and offers a wide range of traditional Egyptian mains. Try the rabbit with molokheiya for a real taste of rural Egypt, their old-school fish Sayadeya, or opt for Egypt's national dish, Koshary (a mix of pasta, lentils, fried onions and tomato sauce). Abou el Sid also serves a range of alcohol, and Egyptian water pipes (shishas). Abou el Sid gets very busy, so it's advisable to book in advance. If you can't get a table, L'Aubergine Restaurant is near by, or you could try the Abou el Sid branches in Mohandiseen or Maadi. NileGuide
Photo courtesy of Abou el Sid
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Cairo Snapshot
Local Info
Delicious chaos. Theres no better way to sum up the exotic, intoxicating and infuriating nature of Cairo, the largest city in Africa and the Middle East. Because Cairo is not just about itsPharaonic heritage, even if it does boast the last remainingWonder of the Ancient World. Cairo is a sprawling mass of humanity in which different worlds collide, and the past rubs shoulders with the present. SoaringIslamic architecture peers down on bustling bazaars, where young boys slip through the throngs delivering tea to the haggle-happy masses. SereneCoptic churches huddle together next to the remains of theRoman fortress. Donkey carts battletaxis for supremacy over the streets. The traffic either moves at breakneck speed, or it doesnt move at all. Rich fast-food suburbia snuggles up to poorer, more baladi areas, where workers eatfuul in the street. Old men in galabayas sitsmoking shisha and playing backgammon in local cafs. The rattle-slap of the pieces and the hubble-bubble of their pipes merge with the cacophony of horns, laughter and blaring Arabic pop. The sweet smells of fruit tobacco and spices mingle, seasoning the traffic fumes. And cutting through it all, five times a day, is the Call to Prayer, ethereal and mesmerising. But older even than Cairo, the Nile flows on, dividing the city in two. How it all breaks down Cairo is not really one city. Itsstory stretches back for thousands of years, from ancient Egyptian times through to the present day. The current Arabic name for Cairo is alQahirah, which can be translated as The Victorious, or The Conqueror. Egyptians also refer to Cairo as Masr, which means Egypt. The city is huge, and is divided into numerousneighbourhoods. Here are some of the most important: Downtown Cairo is the centre of the modern city, a mish-mash of commerce and housing. Here you can visit the wonders of theEgyptian Museum, including the treasures of Tutankhamen. There are also a fewart galleries, and numerousrestaurants,cafes and bars. Towards the east, Downtown shades in to the area known loosely asIslamic Cairo. This is where you find the liveliest markets, such as Ataba, and of courseKhan alKhalili, as well as the most majesticIslamic architecture. One of the most famous Cairo mosques isal-Azhar Mosque, arguably the most important in the Sunni Muslim world. At the edge of Islamic Cairo, on top of the Muqattam Hills, theCitadel stands watch over Cairo, as it has done for centuries. Out towards the east and the north-east are the neighbourhoods ofNasr City andHeliopolis. Virtually self-contained cities, there is little of interest here to the casual visitor, though there are lots ofhotels in Heliopolis. South of Downtown Cairo, stretching along the Cornice, are thehotels and embassies ofGarden City. Below this isOld Cairo, home to theCoptic Christian quarter, and one of the most picturesque parts of the city. Even further south is the expat enclave ofMaadi, one of the best places in Cairo to do afelucca ride. A way east of Maadi, you can find theNew Cairo development, a partial shelter from the hurly burly of the centre. Al-Manyal andZamalek are two large islands in the centre of the city, around which the Nile flows. Zamalek is a blend of the posh and the westernised, with good shopping, lots ofrestaurants andnightlife, and some swankyhotels. West of the Nile, in what is reallyGiza rather than Cairo, are the residential neigbourhoods ofImbaba,Mohandiseen,Agouza,Dokki andGiza. With a number ofhotels andrestaurants, many tourists choose to stay in Dokki. The other alternative is to head further west, to where Giza crashes into the ancient past. The city literally spreads all the way to the edge of thePyramids, and there are lots ofhotel resorts that provide a convenient base forexploring the Pharaonic monuments ofGiza,Saqqara andDahshur. Further west still, near the start of the AlexDesert Road, is one of Cairo's swish new satellite cities:6th October City. This is where many of the great and the good live in order to escape the chaos of Cairo itself. Stuff you need to know Culture Egypt is a quite conservative Islamic country. About 85% of the population are Muslim, while the remainder are Christian, mainly Coptic. While Egypt is nowhere near so conservative as, for example, Saudi Arabia, and the locals for the most part are used to dealing with foreigners, a few things are worth bearing in mind. Dress sense: This is important, but doesnt need to be a headache. Women are advised to cover their shoulders and knees as a minimum(but you dont need to wear a headscarf). This is both prudent, and respectful. You are unlikely to offend anyone in touristy areas, but you will attract a whole lot more attention if you are wandering around in shorts and singlet. For men it doesnt matter so much, but its considered more respectable to wear trousers rather than shorts. Public behaviour: Its best for couples to avoid overt signs of affection. Holding hands is fine, but full-on pashing in the street definitely isnt! Physical contact between the sexes in Egypt is limited, though you will see men holding hands and kissing each other thats how its done here! Also, be mindful of the Call to Prayer. Egyptians will usually turn their music off so it doesnt compete, and this certainly isnt the time for you to Cheers and down a shot of vodka. Likewise, watch out for prayer mats on the street, and try to avoid stepping on them. Hospitality: Egyptians are super-friendly, inquisitive, and(Cairenes in particular) can sometimes come off as a little blunt. You will be regaled wherever you go with cries of Welcome in Egypt, and Whats your name? Many people will want to practise their English with you. One of the first questions people often ask is your marital status, or your religion! You may also be lucky enough to be invited to someones home for a meal; or even better yet, to a wedding! Go, as it will likely be the highlight of your trip.(Click here for more information onfood andgoing out.) Health and Safety
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Cairo Snapshot continued

For such a large city, Cairo is incredibly safe. There is very little chance of your being robbed, much less attacked. You should, of course, still take all the normal precautions you would when travelling anywhere in the world. The combination of crowds, sun and pollution can wear down visitors to Cairo. So drink plenty of water, and make sure to slip-slap-slop! Officially, the tap water here is safe to drink because its so heavily chlorinated, but it still takes some getting used to. Bottled water is widely available, and cheap. Unfortunately, you cant do anything about the crowds or pollution you just have to suck it up! Also, be prepared that many people in Cairo smoke, everywhere. Very few restaurants or bars have non-smoking areas. Its not unusual for visitors to suffer from a bout of travellers diarrhoea, or Ramesses Revenge. You just have to take this in your stride and ride it out. Keeping well hydrated, and washing your hands before putting them anywhere near your mouth, will reduce your chances of being struck down. Bear in mind that some of the money is filthy. If you do need to grab any medication, there are pharmacies everywhere, and the staff are well trained and usually speak English. The biggest annoyance for most visitors is the hassle factor. Anywhere the tourists go, the salesman and touts spring up too. They are persistent, silver-tongued, and very good at what they do. The majority of Egyptians are honest, and almost painfully generous and helpful, but a small minority in the tourist trade view all foreigners as walking$$ signs, so be prepared. It should go without saying that whenever you are buying anything in the bazaars, you will be expected to haggle. Sometimes, this hassle has a darker edge to it, and foreign women here(as well as the locals) can fall prey to sexual harassment in the streets. This is normally confined to inappropriate comments and cat-calls, but the odd grope is not unheard of, especially in crowded areas. You can minimise the chances of this happening by dressing conservatively, and travelling with a man if possible. For single women, wearing a fake wedding ring is also a good idea. Money and other practicalities The currency here is the Egyptian Pound(LE). ATMs and exchanges are widely available, though not many shops or restaurants will let you pay with plastic. Small change can sometimes be hard to find, so hoard your 1 LE notes(youll need them to use the toilet in many places). Baksheesh is a big part of life in Egypt. It can be thought of as tipping for a service given, out of charity, or to smooth the way through the machinations of government bureaucracy. Internet cafs are all over the place, cheap to use and with generally good connection speeds. Many cafes also have Wi-Fi access. Post offices are common, though the post system is not the most reliable in the world. If you want to call home, the street kiosks sell phone cards. Minatel is the best the green and yellow phone booths. The most important piece of advice Pack your sense of humour along with oodles of patience, throw out your preconceptions, and just dive right in! Cairo can be a challenging city to visit. Yes, it is big, smelly, dirty and crowded. Yes, some people will try to rip you off, take advantage of you, or ask you for baksheesh. Yes, even the simplest task can turn into a massive mission. But thats the game, here. Scratch beneath the surface, and youll find there is nowhere on earth that is as exhilarating, fascinating or welcoming as Cairo. Whether you are here for aweekend or aweek, on abusiness trip or yourhoneymoon, interested inPharaonic monuments,getting off the beaten track, or simply thefood, Cairo has it all. It truly deserves its medieval appellation of Umm al-Dounia, the Mother of the World. NileGuide 2010 Pre-history The savannahs of Egypt were inhabited by hunter-gatherers more than 250,000 years ago. During the Neolithic period(from around 9,500 BC) communities began to settle in both northern and southern Egypt. By around 4000 BC, it seems Egypt was divided into two vying federations: Lower Egypt(the delta region) and Upper Egypt(the Nile valley south of where the delta begins). The Pharaonic period: 3,100 525 BC (Dates given are the conventionally accepted approximate ones, but are still much disputed.) Around 3,100 BC, a semi-mythical figure known as Menes is said to have unified Upper and Lower Egypt into a single entity. It was around this time that the city ofMemphis was established, situated at the beginning of the delta the symbolic meeting point of Upper and Lower Egypt. Memphis was probably the first dynastic city in world. It was the capital city of Egypt during the Early Dynastic Period(3,100 to 2,686 BC) when theStep Pyramid of Saqqara was built and the Old Kingdom(2,686 to 2,181 BC) when the pyramids atDahshur andGiza were built. Throughout the following 1,650-odd years of stability and chaos, Memphis remained a key ancient Egyptian city swinging between capital city, and important administrative centre. Its power was not fully diminished until the Arab invasion of the 7th Century AD. As well as the remains of Memphis, and thepyramids and tombs of the necropolis, the other main ancient Egyptian settlement within what is now Greater Cairo was the religious city of On, known to the Greeks as Heliopolis. Situated to the north-west of the modern suburb ofHeliopolis, theres nothing left to see these days. Of Persians and Greeks: 525 30 BC When the Persians conquered Egypt in 525 BC, they established a new city on the east bank of the Nile, called Babylon-inEgypt. This city grew up around a fortress built to protect a canal linking the Nile to the Red Sea, and was situated in the area now known asOld Cairo. This settlement marks the beginning of the history of Cairo proper,
History
Cairo is a city in which the past and present are inextricably intertwined. Its history is long, colourful, and turbulent. Despite the presence of thePyramids, Cairo is not technically a Pharaonic city. Rather, it is an amalgamation of separate cities that were established by successive conquerors since Persian times. But seeing as modern day Greater Cairo has expanded to include the remains of the ancient Egyptian past, this is the natural starting point for an exploration of Cairos tangled history.
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around 2,500 years after Memphis was first established by the ancient Egyptians. When Alexander the Great conquered Egypt in 332 BC, he paid tribute to the priests of Memphis, but chose to build the capital city that bears his name up on the north coast. The Ptolemaic Dynasty, established by Alexanders General Ptolemy, ruled Egypt for around 300 years, but had little to do with Babylon-in-Egypt. Roman and Byzantine rule: 30 BC 642 BC During the twilight years of Ptolemaic rule, Roman influence over Egypt grew. Cleopatra VII fought to keep Egypt independent, bearing Julius Caesar a son, and then allying herself with Mark Anthony. They were defeated by Octavian in 30 BC, and Egypt was finally swallowed up by the Roman Empire. Romes main interest in Egypt was as a source of food. They therefore guarded the important trade routes, and in 130 AD Emperor Trajan rebuilt the fortress ofBabylon-on-the-Nile. Alexandria was effectively left alone, and remained the cultural and administrative capital of Egypt. The Jewish and Egyptian pagan inhabitants of Babylon-on-the-Nile were resentful of Hellenistic and Roman dominance, and with the introduction of Christianity to Egypt in the 1st Century AD, many of them converted. After Emperor Constantine made Christianity the official imperial religion in the early 4th Century, churches started being built in the area. Some of these can still be seen in Old Cairo today, such as theHanging Church and theChurch of St Sergius. The Arab invasion and the establishment of Fustat: 642 969 AD When the Muslim armies of General Amr Ibn al-Aas invaded Egypt in the 7th Century AD, the population of Babylon-in-Egypt barely resisted.(They were still being persecuted by their Byzantine overlords.) Al-Aas established a camp near the fort, and went off to conquer Alexandria. When he returned victorious in 642 AD, he found a dove nesting in his tent. Declaring this a sign from Allah, he established on this spot the first mosque ever built in Egypt theMosque of Amr Ibn al-Aas. This area of Old Cairo became the focal point for Egypts new capital city, known as al-Fustat, The Camp. The next few hundred years saw a convoluted internecine struggle within the Islamic world, in which the Damascusbased Umayyad dynasty gave way to the Baghdad-based Abbasids, who built their own capital city to the north-east of Fustat. Successive, short-lived Egyptian dynasties, such as the Tulunids(who founded theIbn Tulun Mosque) and the Ikhshidids, also built their own capitals, which all merged together to form the sprawling metropolis of Fustat-Masr. These successive settlements, from Persian times through to the early Islamic cities, are the area known today asOld Cairo. The Fatimids come to town: 969 1171 AD The Fatimid khalifs were Shia Muslims from Tunisia who conquered Egypt in 969 AD and formed an empire that stretched across much of North Africa, Syria and western Arabia. In time-honoured fashion, the Fatimids established their own capital city further north of Fustat-Masr. They named this city al-Qahirah, The Victorious, which is the Arabic name for Cairo today. This Fatimid city is loosely synonymous with the area tourists know today asIslamic Cairo. The walls built around it are still standing in places, as are thenorth andsouth gates. Under the first two rulers, the city was prosperous and stable. Beautiful Islamic monuments, such asal-Azhar Mosque, were built. Later rulers, such as the insane al-Hakim, builder ofal-Hakim Mosque, were less successful, and decay began slowly to set in. Saladin and the Ayyubid dynasty: 1171 1250 AD Sent to Cairo to help fight against the Crusaders, Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi became ruler of Egypt on the death of the last Fatimid khalif in 1171 AD. Known in the west as Saladin, he spent much of his rule liberating territory in the Holy Land from the Crusaders. Salah al-Din built theCitadel on a hill between al-Qahirah and Fustat-Masr, thus bringing both under his control. He also extended the city walls, built numerous hospitals, and established madrassas to promote Sunni rather than Shia Islam. He refused to take a religious title, referring to himself as al-Sultan(The Power) instead. His successors managed to repel the Fifth Crusade, but came to rely too heavily on warrior-slaves from Central Asia in their army. When Sultan Ayyub died with no heir, and his wife a former slave girl openly assumed power, the time was ripe for the warrior-slave caste of Mamluks to take over. The Mamluk intrigues: 1250 1517 AD The period of Mamluk rule was one of intense contradictions. On the one hand, they built extensively across the whole city, commissioning some of Cairos finest mosques and Islamic monuments. Many of them can still be seen today inIslamic Cairo, such as theSultan Hassan Mosque,al-Muayyad Mosque, theMosqueMadrassa of al-Ghouri, and theMausoleum of Sultan Qaitbay. They also built up public institutions, and fostered the development of learning, the arts and trade. On the other hand, their rule was characterised by bloody intrigue and feuds, as rival factions attempted to scheme, murder and sodomise their way to power. Ottoman rule, British occupation and the rise of nationalism: 1517 1952 AD In 1517 Egypt was absorbed into the Ottoman empire. Little more than a provincial backwater, it was largely left to its own devices, and Mamluk power remained strong. Following the French invasion of 1798, ultimately repulsed by combined British and Ottoman forces, an Albanian officer in the Ottoman army stepped in to the power vacuum. Mohammed Ali was confirmed Pasha of Egypt in 1805, and immediately began to consolidate his rule. After destroying the remnants of the Mamluk power structure, he enlisted European help to start modernising Egypt, building infrastructure such as railways, barrages on the Nile, and factories. More than anyone else, he is considered to be the founder of modern Egypt. TheMosque of Mohammed Ali at theCitadel still dominates the Cairo skyline to this day.
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For the most part, his successors continued this period of modernisation. In 1869 the Suez Canal was opened, under Khedive Ismail. However, all this modernisation came at a price, and Egypt found itself ever deeper in debt. In 1875, Ismail had to sell his shares in the Suez Canal to the British government, at which point most of the profits from the canal began to bleed out of the country. Despite technically still being part of the Ottoman empire, Britain exerted increasing control over Egypt, until it was effectively a colony in everything but name. During the First World War, Egypt was officially made a British protectorate. Following the dissolution of the Ottoman Empire after the war, Britain was forced by a growing nationalist movement to grant Egypt a limited form of independence, and Fouad(one of Khedive Ismails sons) was crowned king. In the period leading up the Second World War, tensions ran high between the British, the King(perceived as a British stooge) and the Wafd nationalist party. After the war, anti-British riots and strikes supported by the Muslim Brotherhood led to the temporary evacuation of British troops, and democratic elections in which the Wafd party formed a government. Nasser and the 1952 revolution: 1952 1970 In January 1952 the British garrison in Ismailia attacked the main police station, believing the police were aiding the Muslim Brotherhood in their campaign of resistance. A number of police officers were killed, and the following day huge riots broke out in protest in Cairo. King Farouk sent in the army to control them, and dissolved the government. On July 23rd 1952 a group known as the Free Officers seized power, deposing King Farouk. The official leader of the group was General Naguib, though Colonel Gamal Abdel Nasser was regarded as being the real power behind the movement.(Note that although commonly referred to as a revolution, this event was really a military coup dtat.) On 26th July 1953 Egypt was declared a republic. In June 1956 Nasser was sworn in as president. During his presidency, Egypt finally wrested control of the Suez Canal from the British during the 1956 Suez crisis, and began construction of the Aswan High Dam. Feudal estates were broken up and redistributed, and advances were made in both education and health care. On the other hand, his vision of PanArabism led him to get involved in the Yemen civil war, and also helped precipitate the disastrous Six Day War. In true Soviet style, his regime was brutal in preventing and crushing any form of dissent or opposition. Sadat switches it all around: 1970 1981 When Anwar Sadat took presidency on Nassers death in 1970, he set about reversing Nassers policies of centralized economic control. In 1973, Egypt, Jordan and Syria launched the 6th October War, in which they managed to break into Israelioccupied Sinai, before eventually being pushed back. This war, commemorated in theOctober War Panorama, changed everything. Sadat instituted his open door policy of private and foreign investment, and there was no shortage of Arab investors now willing to pump money into the country. The economy grew rapidly, although this new-found wealth was not distributed at all equitably. Sadat also allowed some rival political parties, and relaxed censorship of the press. The war also paved the way for the Camp David Agreement of 1978 in which in order to curry favour with the West Sadat recognised Israels right to exist, in return for getting back the Sinai. As punishment for this perceived betrayal, Egypt was ostracised from the Arab world. Sadat also courted organisations such as the Muslim Brotherhood, believing their brand of political Islam would act as a counter-balance to the Left. This backfired on him, as politicised Islam became ever more powerful. When he finally cracked down on these groups, it was too late. He was assassinated in 1981. The reign of Mubarak: 1981 present day Mohammed Hosni Mubarak is Egypts longest serving ruler since Mohammed Ali. He has presided over Egypt during a tremendously difficult period in its history, including two Gulf Wars and September 11th, continuing problems in the occupied Palestinian territories, increasing internal Islamic militancy, and a handful of terrorist attacks against foreigners. He has had to tread a thin and treacherous line between cosying up to the West, maintaining Egypts status in the eyes of the Arab world, and preventing domestic troubles. While the economy appears robust, the gap between rich and poor is growing fast, and the majority of ordinary Egyptians are struggling to make ends meet. Foreign debt is huge, and prices for basic commodities rising. There is growing cynicism and anger with a government that uses the bogeyman of Islamic terrorism to justify repressive domestic policies including the continuation of the Emergency Law that was put in place when Sadat was assassinated and yet seems to pursue policies that could further radicalise the population. There is also concern that Mubarak is grooming his son to assume power from him in 2011, in elections that will appear fair, but will be anything but. While tourism remains strong(though subject to the vagaries of international politics and economics), and Egypt is as safe and vibrant a place to visit as it has ever been, it is clear that as for much of the rest of the world the coming years will be crucial in determining the course of Egypts future. NileGuide 2010
Hotel Highlights
As one of the oldest tourist destinations on earth, Cairo has a whole host of hotels to suit every budget and need. Whether you are afamily looking for somewhere kid-friendly, atraveller on business, or abackpacker travelling on a shoe-string, theres something just right for you. The first thing to remember with hotels in Cairo is thatstandards tend to be lower than in more developed countries. A three star hotel in Cairo is not comparable to, for example, a three star hotel in London. This doesnt have to be a problem, it just means you need to have a little more patience with the staff, and you should check your room carefully. Make sure everything works, and that it is clean especially the bathroom. Inlower budget hotels,water can be a problem. There may be no hot water, little water
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pressure, or the toilet may not flush. No worries, just ask for another room. And while were on the subject of the toilet, dont throw toilet paper into it the sewage system cant handle it! You dont normally have to worry about mosquitoes in Cairo, but what you do have to worry about is thenoise! In general, rooms towards the top of the hotel away from the street will be quieter. The problem with this is that some of the elevators in Cairo hotels are as old as thePyramids, and can take an age to arrive. Note that even if your room is quiet as the grave, theres a good chance youll be woken up by theCall to Prayer each morning anyway. Hey its Egypt, and this is part of the fun! Its also important to check carefully exactly what isincluded in the price. Breakfast could be extra, and taxes are sometimes added on top rather than included in the quoted price. Also, be wary of using the phone in your room thats an easy way to rack up an extortionate bill! Although most hotels will have some sort of restaurant, and the bigger hotels will have numerous facilities, some hotels are dry, and serveno alcohol at all. In terms ofpayment, be aware that not all hotels will accept plastic. As with most parts of the world, rack rates are much more expensive than booking the hotel in advance. You may find that you can negotiate a discount on your room, especially in cheaper places, or during quiet times, but certainly dont bank on it. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, be wary of thetours offered by hotels in Cairo. Whether the swankiest resort or the dirtiest flop-house, they will offer tours around the main sites of Cairo. Sometimes these are very aggressively pushed on to tourists. They will always be much more expensive than arranging something yourself, and you may find you spend more time at papyrus factories and perfume stores than you do at the sites themselves. If you dont like dealingwith taxi drivers, you can ask your hotel to arrange a driver or taxi for you. It will still be more than flagging a cab down on the street should cost, but in theory at least its less hassle! Where to stay It all depends on what you are looking for! Theluxury resorts out near thePyramids inGiza are top notch, and great for pampering yourself. They also tend to be the best option for families, and come equipped with swimming pools, gyms and other recreational facilities. However, their proximity to thePharaonic sites means they are not that convenient for the rest of Cairo. If you are staying in Cairo for a while, you will spend a lot of time and money shuttling back and forth. Some of the best hotels in Cairo are out here, such as the worldfamousMena House Oberoi,Le Meridien Pyramids, and theCataract Pyramids Resort. If you are conscious of your budget, thenDowntown is undoubtedly the place to be. Most of Cairoscheap hotels and hostels are located either on or near Midan Tahrir. They all tend to be pretty similar, and rather hit and miss, but good options includePension Roma,Lialy Hostel, andWake up! All of these hotels are minutes away from the captivatingEgyptian Museum. If you want the convenience of Downtown, have a bit more money to spend, and fancy a trip down memory lane, then theWindsor Hotel is a good bet. While its dark wood mashrabia panelling has seen better days, it still oozes charm, and has one of thebest rooftop bars in Cairo. Alternatively, head toTalisman Hotel at the top of Talaat Harb street for one of Cairos most enchanting boutique hotel experiences. Thats not to say that Downtown Cairo has no luxury options it does! TheRamses Hilton provides the level of comfort and service that one would expect of the Hilton chain, and is popular with business travellers and visiting Gulfies. The swishNile Hotel is slightly more central, whilst the Conrad International is a bit north of Downtown, along the Cornice, and is another popular option with business travellers. The hotels ofGarden City are ideal for the visitor who wants a great location, but doesnt want to be smack bang in the bedlam of Downtown. Hotels such as theFour Seasons Nile Plaza, and theSemiramis Intercontinental, are amongst the best in Cairo, but theres also the more affordable, though no less charming, option of theGarden City House Hostel. If its super luxury you are after, theGrand Hyatt Hotel at the north tip ofManyal Island has it in spades. And if you want to rub shoulders with expats and embassies, and have access to some of the mostwesternised nightlife in Cairo, then theZamalek hotels are a good bet. TheCairo Marriott and theSofitel El-Gezirah deserve their reputations for opulence and service, whereas hotels such as theFlamenco are for those who want a touch of class without breaking the bank. Business travellers might prefer to stay nearer to the airport and conference facilities ofHeliopolis. Some of the biggies here include theMovenpick Heliopolis,Le Meridian Heliopolis, and theSonesta Hotel. Wherever you choose to stay, and no matter how comfortable it is, make sure you dont forget to head out and explore thebest sights Cairo has to offer! NileGuide 2010
Restaurants Highlights
Drinking and dining options in Cairo are as varied as the city itself. You can grab a cheap, tasty and filling street snack on the fly, sit down to a gourmet four course meal at a posh restaurant, and everything in between. As well as local cuisine, a wide range of international food is available all over the city, including the main Western fast food outlets. Egyptian food Egyptian food tends to be simple, hearty and filling, heavy on the oil and spices(though rarely spicy, as in fiery).Bread is a massive part of the Egyptian diet, and the country has one of the highest(if not the highest) per capita consumption in the world. In fact, the Egyptian word for bread is the same as for life eesh. It mainly falls into two categories: thick, wholegrain baladi bread; and thinner, whiteshami bread, a bit like pita bread. Two traditional dishes, often eaten for breakfast, includefuul andtaamiya. Fuul is a sort of stew made of fava beans, either mashed up or served whole, and ranges from the rather bland to the deliciously spiced. Taamiya is the Egyptian version offalafel mashed up and deep fried bean(usually chickpea) patties.
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Both fuul and taamiya sandwiches are available at hole-in-the-wall restaurants on almost every street in Cairo, and cost next to nothing. Its best to buy these from a busy restaurant, as early in the day as possible(theyre disgusting if theyve been lying around for a while), and if you have a sensitive stomach, it might be sensible to exercise some caution. One of the most famous, and cleanest, places to get fuul and taamiya is atFelfela an Egyptian fast food chain that has branches all over the place, includingDowntown Cairo and by thePyramids.(Be warned the one at the Pyramids is very touristy.) The closest thing Egypt has to a national dish iskoshary. This is a carbohydrate bomb, usually made out of different types of pasta, lentils, chickpeas, fried onions and tomato salsa. You can also add a potent chilli sauce(careful, its as evil as it looks!), and a pungent mix of lime juice and garlic known as daa. Koshary tastes a lot better than it sounds, is extremely filling, and very cheap a large dish will rarely be more than around 5 LE. Like fuul and taamiya, koshary is available at street restaurants all over Cairo.Downtown in particular has some of the best koshary joints. Probably the most famous in Cairo, if not the world, isAbu Tarek. TheAl-Omda chain also does a decent bowl, and you can add chicken or meat to it. Another common form of street food isshawarma a chicken or meat(meat in Egypt effectively means beef) sandwich, where the flesh is cut from a sizzling, revolving spit, a bit like a donner kebab. Slightly less common and a little more expensive than other street foods, you still wont have to go far before you bump into a shwarma joint.Gad is probably the most famous of the chains that serve them. Finally, standardkebab andkofta are also pretty common, usually sold by the kilo. The best ones are grilled over charcoal. Youll also notice lots of tiny restaurants servingspit-roasted chickens. A whole chicken, with bread, salad and rice, will usually cost around 25 LE. Most decentEgyptian/Oriental restaurants will offer some variation of the above foods, though at a higher cost. Mezzes, especiallytahina(sesame seed paste) andbaba ghanoush(aubergine) are also common;hummus less so. Restaurants such asAbou Shakra(just next toGarden City),Cedars(in Mohandiseen),Andrea(inGiza),Al-Omda(all over the place) andAlfi Bey(Downtown) are good mid-range Oriental style restaurants. Other typical Egyptian foods includefattah a mix of rice, bread and meat, served with a tomato sauce(a bit like an Egyptian Biryani) andfeteer. Feteers are also known as Egyptian pancakes, pies or pizzas, though they most resemble a heavy, stuffed crepe. You can have them sweet or savoury. Cheap, cheerful and ubiquitous, there are a number of jointsDowntown that serve them, and of course the ever-famousEgyptian Pancake House inKhan al-Khalili. Desserts are usually supersweet.Mihallabiya is a kind of sweet cross between rice pudding and blancmange, sometimes seasoned with nuts and raisins.Umm Ali is a very typical Egyptian pudding, like mushy, milky bread pudding mixed with nuts and raisons. Finally, special mention must go tomolokhiya. Molokhiya, also known as Jews Mallow, is as Egyptian as thePyramids. Its a slimy green vegetable that is not dissimilar to spinach, and is usually served as a gloopy soup, along with rice and a meat such as rabbit. It has a most disturbing texture, and is a rather acquired taste, but is as traditional as it comes. A good place to try Molokhiya is atAbou el Sid restaurant inZamalek. This is one of the best, and most famous,traditional Egyptian restaurants in Cairo. Note that Cairo is not the best city in the world forvegetarians. With all the fuul, taamiya and koshary knocking around, youre not going to starve, but your options will be limited in most places.LAubergine in Zamalek used to be an exclusively vegetarian restaurant, though it now serves meat dishes too. It does, however, still have an OK choice of veggie stuff.Mezza Luna, also inZamalek, is also a good choice for some mouth-watering meatless pasta dishes. Drinks Sweet, blacktea is the most common drink. Sweet here means at least two, and possibly as many as four sugars! Most restaurants are used to foreigners strange ways, and will bring the sugar separately. They might even offer you milk, thoughmint would be a more normal accompaniment here! Hot on the heels of tea, is thick, grainyTurkish coffee. Also usually served sweet, this tiny shot would kick the living caffeine out of a double espresso if it came down to a celebrity coffee death match. Just make sure not to swallow the grains they are left in the bottom of the glass. Nescafe is commonly available, and considered a delicacy, and the normal range ofespressos andlattes will be found in any posh joint. Fresh juices are served everywhere, both in restaurants and at street stalls.Lemon,sugarcane andmango tend to be available year round. Others, such aspomegranate andwatermelon, are seasonal. Egyptians also drink some other, slightly more unusual drinks.Karkade is an infusion made out of hibiscus leaves. Served hot or cold, its like Egyptian Ribena, and is said to be very good for the heart and blood pressure. Infusions ofaniseed andfennel are also quite common, andsahlab is a thick, custardy drink that is perfect for cold winter days. And yes alcohol is widely available, both in restaurants and bars, and from some bottle shops. See thenightlife section for more details! Western food Youll find loads of decentforeign cuisine all over Cairo, especially in areas such asZamalek, Mohandiseen and Maadi, and in the posh hotels.Italian is particularly popular, though there is also a fair amount ofFrench,Chinese,Indian, and even some excellentThai. Bizarrely, Cairo is pretty good for affordablesushi, and there is an excellent Swiss restaurant calledLittle Swiss down in Maadi, if you fancy a touch of fondue. If you are craving a steak, head toSteak Out inDokki, orLe Steak inZamalek.Fuddruckers andLucilles do particularly good burgers. Fast food such asMcDonalds,KFC,Hardees andPizza Hut is everywhere, especially aroundDowntown,Dokki, Mohandiseen andHeliopolis. There is even a Pizza Hut opposite thePyramids! Eating out and staying in
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Egyptians tend to go out to eat very late. Its not unusual to see families with children settling down to eat their evening meal at 10.30, or even later! If you are lucky enough to be invited to an Egyptians house for lunch or dinner go! All of the local foods described above are much tastier when they made in the family kitchen according to the old family recipe, and its a great chance to get to know more about Egyptian culture. Do try a little of the wide range of dishes you will no doubt be presented with. Dont, however, stuff yourself, because the food will keep coming, and coming, and coming! You dont need to finish everything put in front of you. In fact, if you do, more will be brought out, since it is the hosts responsibility to ensure their guest is satisfied, and Egyptians take hospitality very seriously. Depending on where you are, you may be eating with your hands. This is quite normal. Since Egyptians use their left hand in the toilet, youll find some will avoid using it when eating(except, perhaps, to help with tearing bread). Dont worry too much if you find this difficult, because the majority of people ignore this custom anyway. Finally, its polite to take along some sort of gift for the family if you are invited to their home for dinner. A package of Arabic sweets from the local bakery, or a bunch of flowers, should do the trick. Enjoy! NileGuide 2010 The majority of Cairos nightlife is concentrated aroundDowntown,Zamalek, and to a lesser extent,Maadi. Bars Its often difficult in Cairo to determine what is a bar, and what is arestaurant: many restaurants serve alcohol, and many bars serve food. Bars in Cairo range from thespit and sawdustDowntowndives, tohipZamalekbistros, toposh hotel lounges. There are also a handful ofrooftop bars, perfect for whiling away those sticky summer evenings. Notable Downtown bars include: Horeya a lively, no frills coffee shop that also serves a local Egyptian beer,Stella(brewed in Egypt, but now owned by Heineken). The clientele includes all sorts of locals, expats and tourists. Stella Bar cramped, dingy and dirt-cheap. TheOdeon Palace rooftop bar on top of theOdeon Palace Hotel; serves food and sometimes shisha. The Carlton rooftop on top of theCarlton Hotel, this cheap and cheerful bar often has blaring Oriental music. The Greek Club another cheap option, with an art deco interior and a charming courtyard thats great in the summer. Also serves some food. El Mojito Skylounge funky bar on top of theNile Hotel, great for cocktail sundowners. Good Zamalek options: La Bodega a swanky restaurant, lounge and bar. LAubergine part restaurant, part bar, very popular with the younger cool kids, and absolutely rammed when theres football on. Deals cosy and welcoming expat haunt that also does good food. Pour Vous simple rooftop with stunning views; also serves shisha, and food is available, but dont expect much of the service. Pub 28 crowded and with decent food, though not always that welcoming. Harrys Pub extortionate British style pub in theCairo Marriott Hotel. Sequoia more of a restaurant than a bar, but a great place to sip beers and smoke shisha while watching the Nile drift past. Maadi: The Red Onion good restaurant-cum-bar, popular with expats. Boss Bar a great spot for karaoke; sometimes has live music. Pub 55 trendy bar with good food and even better service. Honourable mentions: Bulls Eye Pub in Mohandiseen is a British style pub with adartboard. Serves food, and hosts karaoke and live music. Nomad Bar is a rooftop bar on theKing Hotel in Dokki. Its nicely decked out, and serves beer and shisha. The food is mediocre, though, and its sometimes overrun with tour groups. Hard Rock Caf come on, you knew there must be one! Its in theGrand Hyatt Hotel, so you can munch on chicken wings and down beers whilst watching the Nile float by. Clubs and live music There arent that many decentclubs in Cairo, but a handful of swish club/ bar/lounge type places are starting to spring up.Stiletto(opposite theCairo Sheraton),Tamarai(in the Nile City Towers next to the Conrad Hotel) andPurple(Zamalek) are all super-posh, super-expensive and great for posing, if thats what floats your boat! As well as DJs, they will sometimes have live acts. Many of thebig hotels also have clubs, as well ascasinos.Latex, in theNile Hotel, is considered to be one of the best, though it can be a bit of a meat market. Note that all these venues haveentrance fees anddress codes, and will be reluctant to let in groups ofsingle men. By far and away one of the best andmost down-to-earth nightspots in Cairo is theCairo Jazz Club. There islive music(or sometimes a DJ) every night of the week, and despite the name, they play all sorts of music, from Latin to Funk to Rock. For the most part its quite a young crowd. Best of all, entry isfree! After Eight inDowntown is another bar that often haslive music. It does OK food, but gets extremely smoky and crowded. Also, theSwiss Club in Imbaba puts on a popular dance party everyThursday evening a mixture of RnB, Reggae and other African beats.
Nightlife Highlights
Cairo is a genuine24 hour city, and while it may not seem like it to the casual visitor, the city has avaried and vibrant nightlife. While it is not so alcohol driven as in many Western cities, there are plenty ofbars and clubs, and a large range oflive music. There is also a thrivingarts scene andplenty of cinemas. Most Egyptians tend to go out late, and many venues dont get going until after 10 pm. Strict licensing laws, both for liquor and for music, mean that few places stay open past about 3 am, although a number of cafes are open 24 hours.
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The other place that hosts tons of live music isal-Sawy Cultural Centre inZamalek. This is the place to go to listen toclassical and contemporary Arabic music, though they also host a whole range of other genres, and occasionally even international acts. Unusually for Cairo, the whole centre isno smoking, andno alcohol is allowed. Another good option fortraditional live music isMakan, near Saad Zaghloul Metro Station, just south ofDowntown. Makan specialises in performances of endangered religion-and-folk-inspired music from Africa. Finally, themost charming venue for live music in Cairo isal-Genaina Theatre inalAzhar Park. This is a modern outdoor theatre built to resemble a Roman-style theatre. They have a diverse range of performances byinnovative local and international artists, many of which blend modern and traditional sounds. Concerts are eitherfree or very cheap, and you must also pay the small fee to enter the park itself. Cafes Many Egyptians idea of a night out is to head to thelocal caf to hook up with friends,smoke shisha, and perhaps play somegames. The caf, or ahwa, has been the lynchpin of Egyptian social life for centuries. There are simple local cafes all over the place. They all serve tea, coffee and some juices, as well as shisha pipes. Shisha pipes are the Egyptian water pipes, known elsewhere as hookah pipes, nargilahs, or hubbly bubblys. You smoke a special type of verymoist tobacco mixed with molasses, which can be eitherflavoured or unflavoured. Flavours tend to be fruit. Apple is the best, though cantaloupe, peach and cherry are also good. Unflavoured tobacco, or maasel, will blow your head off if you arent used to it. Whilst there are raging debates about the relative health effects of shisha versus cigarettes, the two experiences are entirely dissimilar. Smoking a shisha ispleasantly mellowing, with sweet-smelling smoke and a lulling bubbling sound as the smoke passes through the water. Its well worth trying a puff, though its important to realise that you are smoking, so by definition its not good for you! Posher, more westernised cafes will usually serve food as well as a wider range of drinks. Both types of caf will often have traditional games such asbackgammon ordominoes. Cards is less common. The more westernised cafes will sometimes even have games such as Monopoly or Risk! This might sound pretty tame compared to your average night out in London, butdont knock it till youve tried it! The cafes are often lively, even raucous places, full of happy chatter and laughter. You wont wake up with a hangover the next day, and you will certainly remember the whole of the evening! There are local style coffee shops literally everywhere. The most famous of all isal-Fishawi, inKhan alKhalili. The more modern, expensive ones tend to be concentrated aroundMohandiseen,Zamalek,Dokki andHeliopolis.Momento, in Dokki, is particularly lively, and has loads of games. Film, theatre, dance and other culture There are plenty ofcinemas in Cairo showing bothArabic and foreign films. The best cinemas for foreign films are the ones inCity Stars, theGalaxy Cinema on Manyal Island,Renaissance Cinema in Maspero(just north ofDowntown), andFamily Land in Maadi. These are also the cinemas that are most likely tosubtitle Arabic films in English. Note that film showings in Cairo run late, the last one usually starting at or even after midnight! Cultural centres such as theItalian Cultural Centre and theFrench Cultural Centre will often showindependent films, and Cairo plays host to theCairo International Film Festival towards the end of each year. TheCairo Opera House is the centre of the arts in Cairo. As well asregular music concerts of all sorts, it also has various sorts oftheatre,opera anddance performances, and its well worth dropping in to find out what they have going on. EveryWednesday andSaturday atWikalet al-Ghouri is afree Sufi dancing performance. Although undoubtedly a show, this is one of the most authentic performances you are likely to see here, and is a fascinating blend of riotous colours and hypnotic melodies. The performance begins at8.30 pm, but arrive early to ensure you get a seat. A number of hotels, bars and boats havebelly dancing performances. Many of these are either incredibly tacky, or exceedingly seedy. The best ones tend to be at theposh hotels, and cost an arm and a leg to watch. If you can stand the cheese factor, boats such asScarabee run dailydinner cruises where an exorbitant entrance fee buys you anopen buffet, along with a variety of dancers usually aSufi dancer,belly dancer and some other traditionalfolkloric dancing. Alternatively, theShahrazad nightclub has regularbelly dancing performances. Whilst still on the sleazy side, its certainly not touristy, and women are present in the crowd. The venue is excellent one of Cairosold cabaret clubs that has been refurbished, and harks back to thegolden days of the swinging Cairo nightlife scene. NileGuide 2010
Things to Do Highlights
Egypt is arguably theoldest tourist destination on earth, and Cairo so rammed full of amazing sights that its difficult to know where to begin. Actually, thats not true! But where do you go after youve seen thePyramids? Well, no matter yourinterests or your budget, theres plenty of choice. Its easiest to break the sights down by historical period, but first, a few words of advice. As far as possible, you want to try toavoid the worst of the sun and the crowds. The best time to visit most of the sights is when they first open in the morning. That way you should get there before the hoards of tour buses descend, and the sun isnt so fierce. If this isnt possible, then late afternoon is an alternative, although youll still run into the crowds. If possible, save indoor sights such as the museums for the hottest part of the day. The exception here is the Egyptian Museum: its likely to be crowded whenever you go, but the longer you leave it, the worse it usually gets. Also, thebazaars are best visited late afternoon into the evening, since this is when they tend to be at their liveliest Generally speaking, the best way toget around Cairo is bytaxi. If you are planning on doing a lot of sightseeing, then consider hiring a driver for the day. Your hotel will be
54

able to help you with this for a price or you can take your chances on the street. Guides, both official and unofficial, will be hanging around all the main sights, though you cant be sure how good they are in advance, and haggling over the fee can be a chore. If you are dead set that you want a guide, its probably best to ask your hotel to recommend one. Pharaonic sights Seeing thePyramids of Giza is, for many, a childhood dream come true. Dont let the rubbish or the touts throw you off, these 4,500 year-old monuments really are asimposing,majestic andmysterious as people say. To properly appreciate the sheer scale of their presence,take a good walk around the site. Better yet, approach from theSphinx end if you can.(Youll have to nip around the enclosure.) If you get there early enough, you might be able toenter theGreat Pyramid, and decide for yourself what the controversial Grand Gallery really is. If the tickets have already gone, dont despair. Going inside thePyramid of Chephren is an experience in itself, though not for the claustrophobic! ThePyramid of Mycerinus, whilst significantly smaller than the other two, is still huge. Faced full on, it has an almost menacing quality. Dont forget to enter theSolar Boat Museum, before heading down to see theSphinx. This human-headed lion, cut from living rock, is still the subject of much controversy. Conventionally believed to have been built by Chephren in the 4th Dynasty, there is also evidence that suggests it is much older than that. The other main Pharaonic site in Cairo isSaqqara, home to theStep Pyramid. Whilst not as viscerally impressive as the Giza Pyramids, in some ways this one is more significant: it was probably thefirst large stone structure in the world, prototype of the pyramids to follow. Saqqara also has lots oftombs that are worth visiting, so make sure you allow plenty of time to wander around. One of the best is theMastaba of Ti. Also, dont miss themuseum at the visitors centre! Memphis, the ancient Egyptian capital, is near to Saqqara, and easy to visit at the same time. Sadly,hardly anything remains to hint at the lost splendours, but its still worth it for ardentPharaoh-philes! Dahshur is the site of the first true(smoothsided) pyramids ever built. Nowhere near so awe-inspiring as the Pyramids of Giza, they are still impressive. The site receives far fewer visitors than Giza, so the wholeexperience is a bit more chilled. Its also possible to go inside the Red Pyramid. Finally theEgyptian Museum! A treasure trove of ancient wonders, but badly set out and barely labelled. This is definitely a site wherevisitors benefit from guides. However you choose to visit, make sure you see the stern Old Kingdom statues on the first floor, including thediorite statue of Chephren, as well as the bizarreAmarna art of the heretic pharaoh Akhenaten. Theres also the small matter of thetreasures of Tutankhamen on the first floor, including the iconicgolden death mask! And if you dont fancy paying extra to see theroyal mummies, then take a wander through theanimal mummies section the mummified monkey is particularly disturbing! Coptic sights Coptic Cairo is one of the quaintest andmost serene spots in Cairo. TheCoptic Museum(opposite Mar Girgis Metro station) is modern and well laid out, a fascinating tour through the evolution of Christianity in Egypt. As well as the museum, there are numerousreligious sights in the area, including the famedHanging Church with its suspended nave, the roundCathedral of St George, and theChurch of St Sergius, believed to be on the site at which the Holy Family took shelter. But its not just about Christianity both theoldest mosque and theoldest synagogue in Cairo are also here. Islamic sights From a visitors point of view, the endearing bedlam ofKhan al-Khalili is the epicentre ofIslamic Cairo, and a good base from which to explore the sights. You can headnorth towardsBab al-Futuh and see the wonderfully restoredmosques of Muizz li-Din Allah, including theMoonlit Mosque andal-Hakim Mosque, as well as the exquisiteBeit al-Souhaymi. South leads pastal-Azhar mosque and theMosque-Madrassa of al-Ghouri towardsBab Zwayla andal-Muayyad Mosque. From here you can continuesouth towards theStreet of the Tentmakers, or headeast down Darb al-Ahmar. This takes you pastal-Maridani Mosque and theBlue Mosque towards theCitadel. The Citadel is athree-for-one deal on mosques, showcasing a simpleMamluk mosque, a charmingOttoman mosque(the first ever built in Cairo) and of course the iconicMosque of Mohammed Ali. As well as a fewmuseums, the Citadel offers some of thebest views out over the city. Close by areSultan Hassan Mosque andalRefai Mosque appearing similar from the outside, they are as different as chalk and cheese inside.Ibn Tulun Mosque, with its crazy Babylonian minaret, is a short walk away. Markets, Museums and Galleries As well as theKhan and theStreet of the Tentmakers, Cairo is full ofcolourful markets that are well worth nosing around. Three of the most accessible for visitors arealMuski, west of Khan al-Khalili;Ataba, a whole series of interlinked markets at the end of al-Muski; andal-Ezbekiya used book market, also in Ataba. Others worth mentioning are theFriday Market, and theCamel Market north of Cairo. Museums abound in Cairo, from the dignifiedIslamic Art Museum, to the eclecticGayer Anderson Museum, to the quirkyAgricultural Museum and the bizarreManyal Palace Hunting Museum. Ifcontemporary art is more your thing, theMuseum of Modern Islamic Art is in the grounds of theCairo Opera House, and theMahmoud Mukhtar Sculpture Museum is just a stones throw away. If you do wander into this area, take the chance to climb theCairo Tower, for some of the most spectacular views of Cairo. There are also numerous contemporaryart galleries. Two of the most famous and well respected areDowntown theTownhouse Gallery andMashrabia Gallery.Darb 1718 is another very progressive gallery and arts centre inOld Cairo. The great outdoors Being thelargest city in Africa and the Middle East, Cairo isnt known for its outdoor activities! However, you dont get a greater outdoors than thevast expanse of the desert. Taking acamel orhorse ride into the desert is an experience that will stay with you forever, especially if you ride into the desert near thePyramids at sunset time.
55

Alternatively, hop on afelucca andchillax a while on thelongest river in the world. The ride down inMaadi is particularly good, since you are away from the pollution of the town centre, and there arent any bridges to get in the way. If you can't escape the centre of Cairo, but still want a bit ofpeace and quiet, head over toal-Azhar Park, Cairo's biggest and best green space. Finally, if you are at all interested insustainable technologies,environmental issues orurban planning, make sure to go on theSolar Cities Urban Eco Tour. You will see how some of the poorest communities, in one the most crowded and polluted cities on earth, are usinggreen technology to improve their lives. NileGuide 2010 Terminal 1. There are plans to extend the Metro line all the way to the airport. For most people, the easiest way to get to Cairo from the airport is totake a cab. You can pick up a fixed price service from inside the terminals, or take your chances with the cabs hanging around outside. A fair price to get to the centre of town is around 40- 60 LE, depending on time of day and where exactly you want to go. Car rental companies are located right outside the airport and include: Avis(+1 800 831 2847/http://www.avis.com) Budget( +1 800 527 0700/http:// www.budget.com) Europcar( +33 0825 825 490/http:// www.europcar.com) Hertz( +1 800 654 3131/http:// www.hertz.com) Thrifty( http://www.thrifty.com online reservations only) Short-term car parking is available for about 1,000 cars and is located within walking distance of the terminal buildings. Getting There Overland It's possible to cross into Egypt overland fromIsrael viaTaba, and there are somebuses that run directly between Jerusalem, Tel Aviv and Cairo- seehttp:// www.mazada.co.il You can also come fromJordan on theAqaba-Nuweiba ferry, though it's a time consuming and chaotic procedure. Once inEgypt, there is an extensivelocal bus network that links to Cairo, though be prepared for long, rather uncomfortable rides. Transport Around Cairo Driving around Cairo is a nightmare, and it's not recommended you hire a car unless you are used to driving on such crowded, chaotic and unpredictable streets. The easiest way to get around is by cab. They are all over the place at all times, and it's perfectly safe to flag one down anywhere, at any time of day or night. The black cabsdon't have a meter, so it's best to agree a fare with the driver before you even get in. Many of them are rapacious vultures, so if you don't get a fair quote, just wait two seconds for the next cab to come along. Some of the cars seem to be older than thePyramids, held together only by bits of wire and the will of God. Others are brand spanking new white cabs, which are airconditioned, and even have functioning meters! There are also a few yellow cabs, designed specifically for tourists. They also have air-conditioning and meters, and can be booked in advance on 02 2792 1761. Either way, be prepared for the ride of your life: the only thing crazier than Cairo traffic, is Cairo driving! Note that your hotel will always be able to sort you out with a cab, but it will usually cost you a lot more than if you flag a car down on the street. Cairo also has a modern, efficient and very cheap Metrosystem of underground trains. They are well signposted in English, and run regularly, but unfortunately don't cover that much of the city yet.(There are plans...!) Some useful stops include Sadat, forDowntownand the Egyptian Museum; Ataba, which is a short walk fromIslamic Cairo; Giza, to get you that little bit closer to the Pyramids; and Mar Girgis, forOld Cairo. There are also public busesand service taxisrunning various routes throughout Cairo, for if you are feeling adventurous. The routes are numbered, so you need to know which number you need, although the service taxis will call out their destination as they drive along. There are also a few ferriesthat cross the Nile at certain points of the river, such as from the north tip ofZamalekto Imbaba. NileGuide 2010
Travel Tips
Getting There By Air Cairo International Airport(+202 2265 5000/ +202 2265 2222/http://www.cairoairport.com) is the busiest in the Middle East, and plans and development of new terminals are assuring its capability of handling air traffic from all over the world.Major carriers include: Air Canada(+1 888 247 2262/http:// www.aircanada.com) Air France(+1 800 237 2747/http:// www.airfrance.com) British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/http:// www.british-airways.com) Iberia(+902 400 500/http://www.iberia.com) Japanese Airlines( +1 800 525 3663/http:// www.ar.jal.com/en/) Swiss(+1 877 359 7947/http:// www.swiss.com/web/EN/Pages/index.aspx) United Airlines(+1 800 241 6522/http:// www.ual.com) There are currentlytwo international terminals in the airport, and a third for internal flights. A shuttle bus goes around the airport linking the terminals, but is not always reliable. There are plans to build a new"Automated People Mover." There are plenty of taxis that can ferry you around. To get into town, you can pre-book a place on the air-conditionedCairo Airport Shuttle Bus, or pick up a ricketylocal bus from
Fun Facts
Cairo Country: Egypt Cairo by the Numbers: Population: Estimated at around 22 million in Greater Cairo Average Winter Temperature: 0 C/ 32 F Average Summer Temperature: 37 C/ 99 F
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Most Precipitation: 25 mm/ 1 in Land Area: 555 square km/ 214.2 square mi Number of cars on streets: Over 2 million Quick Facts: Currency: Egyptian Pound(LE, or EGP) Electricity: 220 volts, 50 Hz; standard twopin plug Time Zone: GMT+ 2 Country Dialing Code:+20 Area Code: 02(drop the 0 if calling from abroad) Did You Know? Cairo is Africa's largest and most heavily populated city, and considered the cultural centre of the Arab world. Cairo is known in Arabic as Al-Qahirah, The Victorious, The Triumphant, or The Conqueror. Cairo is also known as Umm al-Dounia, The Mother of the World, and as The City of 1000 Minarets. The longest river in the world flows through Cairo. Cairo is home to the only remaining Ancient Wonder of the World. Sunday is the first day of the week in Egypt. Nobel Prize winning author Naguib Mahfouz was born in Cairo. NileGuide 2010
Weather
Statistics Temperature C Average High Average Mean Average Low Temperature F Average High Average Mean Average Low Rainy Days Rain Fall (cm) Rain Fall (in) 66 57 49 1 0.4 0.2 68 59 50 1 0.3 0.1 73 63 54 1 0.3 0.1 82 71 60 0 0.0 0.0 89 77 65 0 0.0 0.0 94 82 70 0 0.0 0.0 94 83 73 0 0.0 0.0 94 83 73 1 0.0 0.0 91 81 71 1 0.0 0.0 85 75 66 0 0.0 0.0 76 67 58 1 0.2 0.1 68 60 52 0 0.4 0.2 19 14 10 20 15 10 23 17 12 28 21 15 32 25 18 34 27 21 35 29 23 34 28 23 33 27 21 30 24 19 25 20 15 20 15 11 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
NileGuide 2010
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CairoGuide 7days

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The best things to do in Cairo: a first-timer's guide to ancient and modern Cairo

things to do restaurants hotels bars, clubs & nightlife

Abou Tarek Koshary Restaurant Arabesque

The most famous koshary restaurant in Cairo

Step Into An Asian Ambience

Townhouse Gallery Estoril

Cutting edge and influential modern art gallery

Good quality Arabic food in cosy Downtown bar

Downtown Cairos coolest bar

Awe-inspiring display of pharaonic artefacts

things to do restaurants hotels bars, clubs & nightlife

The Great Pyramid

Last remaining ancient wonder of the world

Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren)

Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus)

Haunting, mysterious and iconic

Solar Boat Museum Cairo Tower

Pharaoh's cruise boat to the afterlife

Best views of Cairo plus a revolving restaurant

Al-Sawy Cultural Centre Felfela

Home of art, culture and music in Zamalek

Popular chain serving up traditional Egyptian staples

Hip and elegant bistro, lounge and bar

Khan el-Khalili Bazaar

Restaurant specialising in veggie food, plus a lively bar

Beating heart of Islamic Cairo

Egyptian pancake house Al-Fishawi Coffee Shop Al-Azhar Mosque

Egypt's Highest Islamic Authority

Hussein Mosque (El)

Egypts most sacred mosque, housing grisly body part

things to do restaurants hotels bars, clubs & nightlife

Mosque-Madrassa of al Ghouri Mausoleum of al-Ghouri Bab Zwayla

An ode in marble to the twilight years of Mamluk rule

Look Out for Whirling Dervishes

The imposing southern gate of Fatimid Cairo

Abou Shakra Makan

Where Locals Go For Local Cuisine

Imposing fortress with fantastic views, mosques and museums

Citadel: An-Nasir Mohammed Mosque

Traditional folk and healing music

Citadel: Mohammed Ali Mosque

Huge mosque that dominates Cairos skyline

Ibn Tulun Mosque

Stunning architecture and unique minaret

Gayer-Anderson Museum After Eight

Cairo Jazz Club

things to do restaurants hotels bars, clubs & nightlife

Ancient capital city of the pharaohs

Step Pyramid of Saqqara

Important tomb with colourful scenes of daily life

Saqqara: Mastaba of Ankh-Mahor

Giza Pyramids: Sound and Light Show

Saqqara: Mastaba of Kagemni

Saqqara: Mastaba of Mereruka

Great Lebanese food in informal atmosphere

things to do restaurants hotels bars, clubs & nightlife

Coptic Cemetery of Old Cairo

Ben Ezra Synagogue

Egypt's Most Historic Synagogue

Amr Ibn el-Aas Mosque

Wikala of Al-Ghouri Greek Club (The)

Old Roman fort guarding the entrance to Coptic Cairo