2012

Yellowstone Trip Guide To Gear:

What to bring, what you might bring, and what NOT to bring. Adapted from 2009 12 Day Adirondack Gear-List by NOLS staff and myself. The purpose of this guide is to ensure that each of you brings only what is absolutely necessary for your enjoyment and safety on the trip, and that you not bring things that will only weigh you down and reduce space in the car. Moreover, this will help you decide what you should spend money on and whats just a waste of cash. In fact, you probably already own many (if not most) of these things. Packing List Overview: Mandatory to Bring: 1 internal/external frame backpack (>50L/3100 CI capacity) 1 Pair insulated, waterproof boots 4-5 Pairs Heavyweight non-cotton hiking socks 3 Baselayer tops/bottoms (aka NON COTTON thermal underwear) 1 Midlayer (sweater/fleece/insulated layering garment) 1 Outer Layer (Waterproof, Windproof) 1 Pair Snow Pants 1 Pair Comfy Pants 1 Hat 1-2 Pairs Gloves/Mittens (Waterproof, Windproof) 1 Compass 1 Map 1 Flashlight/Headlamp (with multiple AA batteries) 1 Sleeping Bag (Provided, but consider bringing your own) 1 Sleeping Pad (Provided, but consider bringing your own) 1 Bowl 1 Set Utensils

1 First Aid Kit 1 Bar Soap Contact Lens Solution, Toothbrush, etc. EYEGLASSES 1 Pair Sunglasses 1 Cellphone (and charger we will use this in the van) FOOD! (approximately 2.5lbs/day) 1 Water bottle (DO NOT BRING A BLADDER/CAMELBACK) Mandatory if Climbing (Dont bring if not climbing): 1 Mountaineering Axe 1 Harness (Provided) 1 Helmet (Provided) Optional if Climbing (Dont bring if not climbing): 1 Set Crampons (compatible with your boots) Optional: 1 Pair Gaiters 1 Knife/Multi-tool Entertainment-related-things

Boots:
Perhaps the most important thing you can bring is a good pair of boots. Since well be going in mid-march the temperatures will be between 10 and 25 degrees so most of what well encounter is snow and ice. Moreover, the snowpack wont have started melting so there maybe very deep snow. The two things that are absolutely essential in a boot: 1) Waterproof 2) Insulated Non-waterproof boots will allow snow to melt on the surface, seep in, freeze, and possibly cause you frostbite. I know someone that had her toe amputated due to frostbite. Its nasty. Insulation is also essential because otherwise it will literally be like walking with blocks of ice on your feet for hours on end. There are some very high end boots without insulation that still keep you warm, but thats the exception: in general you want insulation. There are a few different types of boots available for sale. Let us walk you through what they are and whether or not they will be appropriate for this trip:

Lightweight Hiking Boots: ($50-$300)

These are shoes that generally go up or slightly past the ankle designed for three- season use (i.e. not winter). Generally they have a fairly flexible sole for hiking dirt trails and can often be used for cross-running. Better models are made with GoreTex XCR so that theyre also fully waterproof. However, note that theyre VERY thin and have vents so that your feet will get very very cold. Moreover, since they tend to be shallow they will let snow in. These are never insulated. Verdict: DO NOT BUY THESE FOR THIS TRIP. YOU WILL GET FROSTBITE.

Heavyweight Hiking Boots: ($70-$400)

 Basically these are boots designed for more serious hiking. They go above your ankle (and provide support so that you dont roll your ankle) and generally have stiffer soles. Not all of these are insulated. Most are waterproof (some feature GoreTex which is breathable). The advantage of these over snowboots is that they have enough rigidity to climb steeper slopes. Columbia and North Face sell boots in the $90-$120 range that are pretty damn warm and also waterproof. I wouldnt ever spend more than $150 on a pair of insulated hiking boots generally boots at that price range or above are designed for very long summer treks and are thus not insulated (for true winter trekking adventures, youd look at mountaineering boots). Verdict: This is the cheapest option if you want to climb anything/do a lot of hiking. They offer a lot more stability than snowboots and work like a dream with snowshoes. Note that they might not be as warm as snowboots think about what you plan to do in Yellowstone to figure out which way to go with the purchase.

Snow-Boots: ($50-$300)

If you plan on walking around in deep snow/basic hiking, and want to always have warm feet despite horrible weather, look no further. Snow-boots are 100% waterproof and feature enough insulation to keep your feet nice and toasty in all situations. Almost all snow boots are actually an insulated rubber boot welded to a leather/synthetic upper. Sorel is probably the gold standard of snow-boots everybody that owns a pair raves about them incessantly. These arent crampon compatible but are compatible with snowshoes. Did I mention theyre absurdly comfortable? Downside is that for extensive hiking (/physical activity) theyre not very breathable and will get damp inside, making you a bit cold. Moreover, they will not perform well in hilly terrain (with a few exceptions primarily in the Sorel lineup). Note that if you want to climb/hike anything somewhat steep the sole needs to be fairly rigid otherwise it will be a very dangerous endeavor and you can slip and fall.

Mountaineering Boots: ($200-$1000+)

 Get these if: 1) You have the money to spend 2) You either want to climb things or you might end up getting into winter backcountry trips/adventures in the future (or into mountaineering/ice climbing). A good pair of mountaineering boots is probably one of the better investments you can make they can last for several years and, when the sole wears out, they can be resoled for under $100 giving them more years of life. They are fully compatible with all crampons (including the really easy to use fully-automatic crampons). These boots feature a fully tanged sole (a piece of flexible steel or carbon fiber that runs the length of the boot) and one of three types of construction: Subcategory: Double Plastic Mountaineering Boots ($250-$750) These are kind of like ski boots. They have a polycarbonate or carbon fiber shell on the outside (with a sticky rubber sole) and inside they have a thick insulating liner. Since they are plastic on the outside they are 100% waterproof and mind-blowingly warm. Downside is you dont want to wear these on trails not covered in snow they are quite rigid despite the hinging mechanism. These are best for technical ice climbing and general mountaineering. Nice thing about these is you can take the liners out at night to dry them out in your sleeping bag. I own a pair of Scarpa Invernos that I plan to bring along. As of a year or two ago, these are slowly being replaced by (the much more expensive) hybrid boots. Nonetheless, any double plastic boot made since 1990 (and yes, they last that long) is more than capable of tackling anything you throw at it (including 7000M peaks). Subcategory: Leather Mountaineering Boots ($220-$600) These are often hybrid hiking/mountaineering boots. Many of them are fully compatible with crampons (but do verify this), and are completely waterproof. Many but not all of these are not insulated; however, since they feature fairly cutting edge shell materials, you can get away with enough cold for the purposes of our trip. These are the most comfortable type of mountaineering boot since they actually flex a decent amount. La Sportivas Trango line is amazing and pretty much 70% of what you see people wearing in the Rockies (especially the insulated model). Subcategory: Hybrid Mountaineering Boots ($450-$1000+) If youre loaded or have aspirations of taking up mountaineering very seriously hybrid boots are the newest thing in the boot realm these combine the flexibility of leather boots with the warmth and stability of double-plastic boots. Basically, theres a shell made of a synthetic material thats articulated with a hinge (that can

be locked for waterfall ice climbing). Inside goes a standard liner like in a plastic boot. Some even have built in gaiters note that this is extreme overkill for Yellowstone.

Clothing:
While in daily life we tend to avoid layers, in the outdoors layering is always the best approach to clothing since you can control for changing conditions. Moreover, several thinner layers are always warmer than one thick layer. For this reason, we recommend you use the standard outdoor clothing three-layer system. One rule: ABSOLUTELY NO COTTON

Socks ($9-$25):

Socks make or break your choice of footwear. Even if you have the fanciest boots, wearing them with cotton running socks is a guaranteed way to end up with cold feet and blisters. The best approach to dealing with socks in the backcountry is to always wear two pairs of socks. You start with a light synthetic (polyester but NEVER cotton) sock that wicks moisture and a thick wool sock on the outside. This combo also allows the socks to move independently which helps prevent blisters. Honestly, the liner sock you can get at just about any store that sells running socks (again, NOT cotton), although nicer models designed for hiking can be found online. Good wool hiking socks can be found in stores and online. Id recommend buying these online because the price breaks can be significant and theres more selection. What you want to look for is that the sock is meant for winter hiking (i.e. its thick and with a fair bit of cushioning). Light hiking socks are not appropriate since they generally feature quite a bit of cotton and offer very little warmth.

You want to have equal numbers of liner and outer socks: about 4-5 pairs of liners and 4-5 pairs of hiking socks. FYI you tend to get what you pay for with socks (unless theres a sale).

Base Layer ($20-$60):

Basically this is a fancy way of referring to thermal underwear tops and bottoms. What this layer does is wick sweat away from your body so that youre constantly dry (remember, water tends to cool you down). A good base-layer can improve the performance of all your garments and make sure youre always dry, even after a rough hike. There are four materials generally used for baselayers: cotton, silk, polyester, and merino wool. DO NOT BUY COTTON. NO. JUST NO. Silk is pretty rare, but it doesnt smell and it keeps you fairly dry. Merino wool is the best option for warmth, but its expensive and if its not good quality can itch. In my opinion, polyester can outperform merino in breathability, although its not as warm (just get polyester if youre unsure itll be fine). Base-layers come in lightweight, medium weight, heavy/expedition weight. For our purposes the heavy/expedition-weight is the way to go it will be COLD. Plan on wearing the same base-layer 2-3 days. So for our trip 3 tops/bottoms should do just fine.

Notes on Underwear:
Generally you should use the thermal underwear as your underwear if you must, you can layer synthetic boxers underneath the long underwear. Ladies, it has been reported that panties can rub against the long johns and cause annoying chaffing. In general, its recommended you use the thermal underwear as underwear. Polyester and merino wool can be washed with some melted snow and soap and dried at the foot of your sleeping bag in a few hours of sleep.

Shirts ($10-$30):

You might want to wear a shirt over the thermal underwear top. It does add a bit of warmth, but you sacrifice some breathability. Just wear polyester gym shirts and youll be fine.

Mid-layer:
This is probably the most important piece of clothing you can bring. The purpose of the mid-layer is to trap air against your body so that it warms up and insulates you from the cold. There are three approaches to midlayers:

Sweaters ($15-$90):

A wool sweater will typically provide a decent amount of warmth; however, if its too thick they can lack breathability/cause you to overheat. Also, if they get wet they can be a pain to dry.

Fleeces ($45-$250):

For most of you, this is probably the best way to go. heavy-weight fleece keeps you very warm if youre moving and it wicks away sweat very easily. Best of all, its the thinnest option of the three (with the exception of primaloft garments) so you are

free to move without constriction. Downside is that they tend to weigh quite a bit more than the other options.

Insulated Garments ($150-$300):

The best option is an insulated garment these are typically called down sweaters or go by various other names like primaloft insulated garment. Down gives you the highest warmth to weight ratio but if it gets wet it looses its ability to provide warmth. Most manufacturers add a special treatment to make sure this doesnt happen. Primaloft ultralight insulating layers are the most expensive, but they can keep you warm in extreme conditions and weigh next to nothing. Note that a down sweater and a down jacket are two different things. Down sweaters are meant for layering and down jackets/parkas are meant to be worn on the outside. The former is better.

Outer Layer/Shell Layer ($70-$600):

The point of the shell layer is to stop wind/snow/rain from penetrating your insulating layer, causing you to loose heat. A good outer layer is preferably NOT insulated: aka if you were to wear it alone you wouldnt get wet or feel wind but youd get cold. Many of you probably have ski jackets of some sort this will do (even if it has fleece insulation). If youre going to purchase a new outer layer, go for a non-insulated shell style instead of one that includes a liner. These are generally better materials and can be worn with the midlayer of your choosing. If the shell is advertised as waterproof/breathable thats even better. I suggest buying this online since the discounts can be VERY steep compared to brick and mortar stores. There are two main types of shells: Hardshells and Softshells. The former is completely waterproof (many use something like GoreTex that also allows sweat (in the form of water vapor) to escape without letting water or wind in) but kind of stiff. Softshells are made of high-tech stretchy membrane materials and almost feel like only wearing a sweater but they are not 100% waterproof and they often let a bit of wind in. Although we are huge fans of softshells, its better to start by buying a good hardshell if you dont already have one since these are more versatile.

Pants ($30-$300):

For the trip youll want both pants for hiking/snow-related activities and pants to just lounge around/ride in the car with. Generally speaking, you should only bring one pair of snow pants with you on the trip. Theyre bulky and since youll be wearing long-johns underneath its not like theyll get soiled in a few days. There are two main types of snow pants: shell pants and softshell pants. The vast majority of ski-pants/pants designed for snow sports fall in the former category. This is exactly the kind of pant youll want for our duration in Yellowstone. The pant doesnt need to be insulated but it does need to be waterproof/thick enough that it doesnt let you feel cold. Also, make sure you dont buy overall-type pants since theyre highly uncomfortable to move around in. For your lounging pants, warm sweatpants, softshell pants, or even insulated pants will do just fine. Basically, youll want pants that you can comfortably sleep in.

Gaiter (Optional) ($15-$50):

Gaiters are a really nice piece of fabric that have a strap that goes under your boot and keep snow from going into your pant or boot.

Hats/Etc. ($1-$30):
Please make sure to bring a hat since most of your body heat escapes through your head. Most hats will do, but avoid cotton since when you sweat the sweat will freeze. Beanies are probably the way to go. If you want to avoid a wind-beaten face, I suggest investing in a balaclava. Basically, these are robber-style masks that cover your whole face and have a few breathing holes. In the middle of a snowstorm (or on a really windy day) they make the weather bearable. Even better are the balaclavas that transform into a neck-gaiter when youre not using them.

Gloves ($20-$150+):
You NEED to bring gloves (or mittens); however, your choice is entirely personal. Do make sure at the very least that you have a pair of waterproof gloves (i.e. not leather or fleece) so that if snow gets on them your hands dont get cold. Ski-gloves fit the bill nicely. In addition, (optional) carrying some mittens in your pack makes for a nice way to warm up cold hands. Gloves with removable liners are an added plus because you can dry them much faster. Its difficult to give glove recommendations because there are so many options. However, the Black Diamond Patrol glove ($85-$95) is one of the best options out there.

Safety/Navigation:
There are some items that are essential no matter where you are backpacking. Team members fall, storms roll around, people get lost. The items listed here will help ensure you stand a chance of surviving if something bad happens. Compass ($5-$70):

Every year, countless hikers get lost and stranded in the middle of the woods because they forget to carry around a map and compass. Even the cheapest, most basic compass will do. DO NOT purchase a digital compass since this defeats the point of having a device that will work in all conditions. Nicer compasses feature a sighting mirror that allows you to accurately get bearings without tilting your map. Make sure your compass has declination adjustment (almost all of them do) so that you can figure out true north. The Brunton classic compass is like $8 and is more than enough to guide you to any point in North America with astounding precision. The Brunton 8099 Eclipse (with mirror/sight) is a more comfortable upgrade and runs $45.

Map (I will provide this for a small cost):

Topographic map of the area. Combined with a compass, its possible to navigate with greater precision than just about any other tool imaginable. GPS (Optional) ($100-$600+): Handheld (i.e. not car) GPS units are a very easy way of getting from point A to B without having to deal with maps and compasses. If your GPS features topographic maps then you can save the map and compass for an emergency. Nicer units have a barometric altimeter and compass so that you can quickly locate the appropriate

contour on a topographic map. If you do not know how to use a compass properly dont buy one!!! That would only encourage bad habits.

Flashlight/Headlamp ($5-$150):

DO NOT forget to bring a flashlight/headlamp because running to take a leak in the middle of a cold winter night in undies and then losing your way back is just not cool. Oh, and in general youll want to be able to see when it gets dark out. Personally, I recommend a headlamp but if you prefer to bring a flashlight thats your choice. Oh and dont drop $100+ on a light. Youre just wasting money at that point. Petzl makes the Tikka series thats under $30 and is actually a damn good light thats not uselessly bright (try cooking with lights that look like a death-ray and youll see what I mean). Another great option (I would argue, much better) is Black Diamonds Icon headlamp ($50-$60). It has multiple brightness modes that range from cooking- friendly to spotlight powerful. Oh and bring quite a few batteries.

First Aid Supplies ($15-$40):

One hopes to never use anything from here, but almost invariably cuts, scrapes, etc. do happen during a trip. You can buy premade first aid kits or you can find a nice watertight sack/container and make your own. At the very least it should contain the following: 4 Regular Bandaids 2 Large Patch style Bandaids 4 Small Round Bandaids (i.e. something that would cover a blister) 1 Small bottle Advil (do not bring Tylenol unless youre allergic to ibuprofen)

1 Small package Pepto Bismol (this always ends up being used) 1 Small Tube Triple Antibiotic Ointment (its really easy to get an infected cut if you dont use this) Several small alcohol wipes (like the things they give you to wipe your hands after you eat ribs). Small bottle hand sanitizer Medical Tape (you will use this A LOT depending on how easily you get blisters). 5 Q-Tips If you have to use activated charcoal its only because you were an idiot filling the stove improperly. Theres really no reason you should need it.

Camping Supplies:
The OAC will provide some of you with sleeping bags (probably 4-5). We are guaranteed 2 3-person dome tents.

Sleeping Bags (We will probably have 4) ($150-$500):

If you plan on backpacking at any point in the future, I strongly suggest you purchase a good sleeping bag. Not only will it last ages (a good down bag can last upwards of 30 years), but it will likely be lighter, warmer, and more comfortable than what the OAC has. When shopping for sleeping bags the first thing to keep in mind is whether its designed for backpacking. Your sleeping bag needs to be compressible and fit into your backpack. For our purposes, youll want a sleeping bag with a 15 degree rating or below (although 15 degree bags are better because then they can be used for a longer duration of the year). There are two available styles of backpacking-friendly bags:

Down Sleeping Bags ($200-$500):

Undoubtedly, the best option is a good down-filled sleeping bag. Not only will these pack down to a size only slightly larger than a Nalgene bottle, but also it will be warmer ounce for ounce than synthetics. Only downside is that you have to be VERY careful not to get it wet or it wont be able to keep you warm. Youll want to check out offerings from Montbell ($250-$350) and Marmot (~$300) since they tend to be the best reviewed. I recently bought a Montbell bag and it looks toasty as hell.

Synthetic Sleeping Bags ($85-$300):

Generally, synthetic sleeping bags are marketed either as a price-point friendly alternative to down OR as an extreme weather bag. The big advantage with down is that if you screw up and get the bag wet you can still sleep relatively warm. If the same thing happened to a down bag you would be in serious trouble. Check out the Marmot Tressles 15 degree bag for what is likely the biggest bang for your buck in sleeping bags. Its around $90 and is a very high quality bag for the price. A higher-end synthetic option is Mountain Hardwears UltraLamina 15 ($150-$200). Havent tried this one personally, but its highly reviewed.

Bowls/Cups/Utensils ($5-$15):

Dont bring glass anything. It is heavy and if it breaks in your bag (90% chance it will happen) it will be a nightmare. Bring ONE bowl and one utensil set (I suggest a spork). Please dont pay more than like $10 for a bowl (honestly, the $5 plastic ones are fantastic) unless its one of those cool collapsible ones. Camping silverware comes in plastic (VERY different from chinese take-out forks), aluminum, or titanium. Again, dont go overboard $5-$10 should get you a nice set. Id avoid the plastic ones since they can snap on you (and it SUCKS not having a way to eat properly for a week). Oh, and get a proper fork, not a spork. There are cool hybrids though the one pictured below is made by Light My Fire.

Knives/Multi-Tools (Optional) ($10-$100+):

If you want to open cans, make kindling, gut a fish, cut a rope, cook, cut an annoying- looking thread, etc. then a knife is pretty much essential. The basic Swedish-made Mora Knife ($10-$15) is very well made, sharp, and can do just about any campsite job. Swiss army knives $15-$90 can do many more things, but the blades arent exactly amazing. Higher end folding knives, etc. are for posers. You dont need a $100. Nobody does.

Climbing Specific Supplies (Optional*):

*If you plan on climbing Emigrant Peak or some other mountain during our time in Yellowstone, there are some mandatory items that you must bring with you. Some items are helpful, but not required and only worth purchasing if you want to pursue mountaineering in the future (which you should!).

Mountaineering Axe ($40-$200) (Mandatory for Emmigrant Peak):

A mountaineering axe serves three functions: its a pointy walking stick while youre ascending steep terrain, its adze (side opposite the pick) allows you to chop steps in packed snow and clear tent platforms, and its pick lets you perform a life-saving self-arrest if you happen to fall on a steep snowy slope and begin to slide. I will teach you how to perform a self-arrest. On precarious territory, if the team is traveling roped together, if one person falls then the rest of the rope team drives in their axes and saves the person that slipped from falling any further. Note: DO NOT purchase an ice tool. These are very-sharp and curved versions meant for highly technical ice climbing. Self-arresting with a technical ice tool is EXTREMELY difficult and often times dangerous. I recommend the Black Diamond Raven since it can be found between $50-$70 and has proven itself in expeditions to just about any mountain you can think of. It also has enough heft to make clearing snow for your tent really easy. If you plan on doing technical mountaineering later on, you might consider Petzls Summit axe ($190) since it can be used as a load-bearing belay anchor. If youre under 58 then get a 60cm axe. Between 58 and 6 a 65cm axe will do. If youre taller than 6 then measure from your arm hanging on your side to the top of your shoe. Get the closest length without going over. Too long of an axe renders it useless. Buy this online because it will be MUCH cheaper than in stores.

FYI you can resell these on ebay for nearly 85% of what you bought it for. Or you can keep it and USE IT! Or they make awesome fireplace decorations.

Harness (I will provide this) ($70-$150 if you purchase your own):

In very icy sections with drastic drops and snow cornices all around, well travel as a roped team. This way, if you fall the rest of the team uses their axes to stop you from sliding. Emmigrant Peaks routes can be class 3 (steep scrambling) with cornices in the winter, so we may end up roping up. Note that for mountaineering, since you expect to never use the harness (and if you do, youll very rarely hang for more than a few seconds) ultralight harnesses made from webbing are fine (although if you made it yourself please show it to me first).

Helmet (I will provide this) ($90-$120 if you purchase your own):

Its easy to screw up your footing and fall backwards into a rock. Wearing a helmet on the mountain prevents that slight mistake from being a major mistake. You can buy your own if you plan on climbing in the future. Basically, the gold standard for mountaineering is the Petzl Ecrin Roc since it protects you from falling debris much better than its competitors. Youll be wearing these.

Crampons (Optional) ($100-$250):


Crampons make walking on hard snow and ice a piece of cake. No more chopping steps with your ice axes adze. If a few of you have crampons, we can even do some incredibly scenic routes up to the summit that are too steep to do with regular shoes. When buying crampons you MUST take note of what footwear youll be using them with. You cannot use crampons with snowboots or light hiking boots. The boot must be fairly rigid if its a heavy hiking boot, and even then you can only use strap-style crampons. The Black Diamond Contact ($130), Grivel G10 ($140) and Petzl Irvis ($95) are good strap crampons. Make sure NOT to purchase microspikes or crampons designed for running shoes. Crampons should have at least 10 points. If you have mountaineering boots, then you can use non-strapon styles (which are much faster and easier to put on) in addition to strap-styles. Note that for mountaineering you want to avoid crampons with a single front point these are meant for climbing extremely technical ice climbing. I recommend the Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro ($150).

Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills (Completely optional, but a gold-standard reference book that will make you want to head out and do this every weekend and teaches you tons of good outdoor skills) ($20 or like $5 used)

Backpacks (>50L/3100 CI):

Each one of you needs a backpack since the OAC will not provide this. Choosing a backpack really boils down to two things: if you plan on using it in the future, and if so what you plan on using it for. There are two types of packs: Internal and External frame. In either case, you will want something with at least 50L (3100 Cubic Inches) of capacity but ideally 65L (4000 Cubic Inches) or more. If you have ultra- lightweight gear (including a really compressible sleeping bag) its possible to pull off a 45L pack but thats ballsy and only recommended for the experienced adventurer (or if youre Swiss). Consider buying one used!! Check ebay and youll find great prices!

External Frame ($70-$100):

This is basically just a rigid aluminum/steel frame with a backpack attached to it. Not that many companies make these anymore, but they are the cheapest option and are still purchased by a fair number of people for some reason. You can buy a very nice used internal frame pack for the price of a new external frame pack so there is no reason to buy these. Why are they bad? They dont distribute weight evenly, move all around your back, and weigh A LOT. If you already own one, then it will do, but if you are purchasing new packs please avoid these at all costs.

Internal Frame ($90-$500):

These are the more modern style of pack and feature an aluminum (or steel) frame that is actually part of the packs structure. They are curved and adjustable so that the weight is evenly distributed between your shoulders and your hips. There are countless options available for packs, but generally what you should look for is that the material is high quality (reinforced bottoms are a huge plus) and has useful features like a sleeping bag compartment (VERY USEFUL). When buying a pack, either choose something highly reviewed or wait to check it out in person at a store. The latter is especially true when looking at budget lines like Kelty and Jansport since their offerings can differ significantly in quality. Brands that are hard to go wrong with are Osprey, Lowe Alpine, and the North Face. Eddie Bauer has a backpack (Big Tahoma) available on line (as part of their First Ascent series) that are very well reviewed and look tantalizing. Worth checking out since their stuff is always top-notch for the price. Some recommendations: $90-$150 (Entry Level) Jansport Big Bear (78L) ($70). (best option if you dont really want to backpack again) Kelty Coyote (80L) ($140) $150-$300 (Mid-Technical Level) Gregory Z65 ($160ish) Osprey Kestrel 68 ($200) Eddie Bauer First Ascent Big Tahoma ($250)

Lowe Alpine Khumbu/Appalachian (they change the name every year) 65L ($190- $250) I own this pack and it is probably the biggest bang for your buck imaginable compresses down super small for summit days and is very durable. Cilogear 60L WorkSack ($260) If I were to buy a new pack, this would be it. Its durable as hell, mind-blowingly light, and has every feature you could ever want. This has made it to the top of 7000M peaks. If you plan on doing a lot of backpacking/mountaineering in your future this is probably the best bang for your buck imaginable, considering its far better than $400+ ArcTeryx packs.