Breads

Professional Baking - Gisslen

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved.

Ingredients (lean doughs):
CHAPTER

 Flour – use bread flour since it is strong = 3

help trap gasses as dough rises
 Salt – adds flavor and acidity and shelf life
 Water – hydration (helps a dough form)
 Yeast – consumes starch and produces gas =
leavening
◦ Needs: air, food, moisture, warmth
◦ Varieties: instant dry (regular doughs) vs.
instant osmotolerant (high sugar doughs)
◦ More used=faster fermentation, lesser flavor
◦ Instant yeast = does not need to be mixed
with water before using
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
The Baking Process CHAPTER

3
 Basic steps – may have some variation
◦ Caution needs to be exercised with each step to
positively affect the final product

1 – Scaling ingredients 7 – Bench (Intermediate) Fermentation

2 – Mixing 8 – Final Shape / Make-up

3 – Bulk Fermentation 9 – Final Fermentation / Proofing

4 – Folding / Degassing 10 – Baking (includes scoring)

5 – Dividing / Portioning 11 – Cooling

6 – Pre-Shaping / Rounding 12 - Storing

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 1 - Scaling
CHAPTER

3
- Be careful with scaling – precision is important
- measure each item separately, then mix

- Determine water temperature needed – it is the

only variable that you can control

- Other variables include room temp, flour

temp, friction amount (how much the dough
warms up when mixing, due to the friction from
the bowl)

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 1 – Scaling – Water Temperature
CHAPTER

3
 -controls the final dough temperature and the
fermentation rate of the dough

- DDT = Desired (final) Dough Temperature =

Ideal temperature for optimal fermentation
(yeast activity)

- typical lean dough DDT = 78 - 80°

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 1 – Scaling – Water Temperature
Calculation to determine water temperature:
CHAPTER

3
 1 - Multiply the stated DDT by 3 or 4
 3 for straight doughs 4 for prefermented doughs
DDT = 78°F 78° x 3 = 234°F

• 2 – Add together the temperatures of the flour and room

(and preferment, if using), then add 20° for friction
Flour = 68°F Room = 74°F Friction = 20°F
68° + 74° + 20° = 162°F

 3 – Subtract answer from #2 from answer from #1

 Difference is the required water temperature
234° – 162° = 72°

72° = water temperature needed to reach DDT

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 2 – Mixing
-Dough consistency and gluten development are
CHAPTER

3
determined during mixing

- Imperative to start with clean equipment – no

dried dough pieces in bowl or on hook

- All the ingredients are combined to form a

dough (determines the interior of the dough =
crumb)
- Imperative to not over-mix the dough – tough
and sticky (gluten breaks down)
- Important to realize that times in formulas are
guidelines © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 Mixing–Incorporating Ingredients
CHAPTER

3
 Step 1 = pick-up stage – flour and dry
ingredients are hydrated (1st speed)

 Step 2 = clean-up stage – dough forms enough

to pull away from the bowl – rough dough forms

 Step 3 = development stage (2nd speed)

◦ 1– dough is mixed and gluten is developing, but still
rough dough
◦ 2– gluten becomes smooth and elastic

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
2 – Mixing Methods
CHAPTER

3
1. Straight dough method (direct dough method)

 all ingredients are combined and mixed together

 Some secondary ingredients get mixed at different times
 mix instant yeast with flour
 kneading time is determined by formula (mixing type –
short, improve, intensive)
 short fermentation dough – quite common
 long-fermentation dough – short mixed dough
2 – Mixing Methods
CHAPTER

3
 2. Sponge method – lighter texture

 Two-stage method
 1. yeast + liquid + ½ flour mixed together = sponge
 Sponge is a thick batter– rise until doubled and bubbly
 2. fold dough, then add remaining ingredients, mix
until smooth dough

 Advantages:
 Shorter fermentation
 Flexibility
 Better flavor

 © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
2 – Mixing – 2nd speed
-Physical Changes During the Formation of Dough CHAPTER

◦ Flour is fully hydrated

◦ Gluten is formed to give the dough strength – dough
hook mixes by stretching and folding over and over
 Combines:
◦ Extensibility – ability of a dough to be stretched
◦ Elasticity – ability of a dough to spring back from being stretched
◦ Tenacity – resistance of a dough to being stretched
 Longer mixing = finer crumb/smaller holes = more oxidation
 Oxidation = Oxygen is incorporated into dough as mixing
◦ + stronger gluten bonds
◦ + creates the cell structure of the crumb
◦ - white crumb
◦ - somewhat bland aroma and flavor
◦ Salt slows oxidation

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 2 – Mixing
◦ Secondary Ingredient Additions CHAPTER

-Fat - Fats lubricate the gluten and prevent from

bonding easily, so if adding a lot of fat, it needs
to be added at specific times to protect the
gluten formation
2 – 4% - at beginning of 1st speed (no change)
5 – 15% - in middle of 2nd speed
+15% - once gluten is almost developed

- liquid fats are added in beginning of mixing

(they are used for hydration, so with liquids)
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 2 - Mixing
o Secondary Ingredient Additions CHAPTER

3
- Sugar – Hygroscopic properties – will take the
moisture from the yeast
- Up to 12% - added in beginning of 1st speed
- Over 12% sugar – added in stages (and use
osmotolerant yeast)
Eggs –
Added in beginning since important for
hydration
Other ingredients – nuts, seeds, fruits
Added in the middle of mixing on 2nd speed –
this protects the gluten formation
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 2 – Mixing Techniques
CHAPTER

3
 Quality of bread depends on different gluten development
– this is determined by the mixing technique used

 3 Main mixing techniques

◦ 1 – Short
◦ 2 – Intensive
◦ 3 – Improve

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 2 - Mixing
CHAPTER

3
-Short Mixing Technique

◦ Done on 1st speed only (1st for 4 min, check texture,

then 1st for 5 - 6 min)
◦ Mimics hand mixing (hence, only on 1st speed)
◦ Results in under-developed gluten – needs folding for
strength and to align the gluten strands, and also needs
a long fermentation time
◦ Soft and gassy dough with good flavor, open crumb (big,
irregular holes), longer shelf life, and smaller volume of
final product
◦ Short mixing time = long bulk fermentation time

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 2 - Mixing
CHAPTER

3
-Intensive Mixing Technique

◦ Incorporated in 1st speed, gluten fully developed in 2nd

◦ (1st for 4 min, then 2nd for 8 - 15 min)
◦ Long mixing time, so short fermentation, since dough is
mixed to full development
◦ Results in a strong dough with a tight, white crumb (due
to high levels of oxidation), shorter shelf life, poorer
flavor, and larger final volume
◦ Long mixing time = short bulk fermentation time

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 2 - Mixing
CHAPTER

3
-Improve Mixing Technique

◦ Incorporated in 1st, then partially developed gluten in 2nd

(1st for 4 min, 2nd for 4-6 min)
◦ In between short and intensive mixing techniques – good
compromise between short and intensive
◦ Results in a creamy colored, open crumb with good
flavor and shelf life and in between volume
◦ Medium mixing time = medium bulk fermentation time

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 Visual Comparison of the three main mixing techniques
Also, see page 121 for gluten windows (differences while mixing)
CHAPTER

intensive improve short 3

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 2 - Mixing
CHAPTER

3
 Balance of mixing and fermentation
◦ Understand that mixing and fermentation work together
– if the mixing is changed, so is the fermentation time
◦ Longer the mixing, shorter the fermentation

 Which Method to Use?

Factors:
◦ Desired characteristics of the final product – openness of
crumb and size of loaf
◦ Schedule / Time limitations – how much time can you
dedicate for fermentation (Macey’s vs Harmon’s breads)
◦ Understand outcomes of each mixing method and
fermentation time
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 3 – Bulk (First) Fermentation
CHAPTER

3
- A dough is allowed to ferment as a large mass

- Increases dough strength and flavor

- 75% of flavor is developed now
- this is why you get a poorer flavor with an
intensive mixed dough compared to a short mix
dough = less fermentation time

- Allow dough to bulk ferment in a pan sprayed

container, with a lid – need to keep covered so it
doesn’t develop a skin
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 3 – Bulk (First) Fermentation
- What is happening?
CHAPTER

yeast + carbohydrates=alcohol + carbon dioxide

In other words: yeast eats sugar and releases
gas (in the form of CO² and alcohol) to give a rise
in the dough
- enzymes in yeast act as catalysts in
converting starches to simple sugars = food
for yeast

- How long to ferment?

• Until approximately doubled in volume!
• Short mix – 3 – 5 hours
• Intensive mix – 20 – 30 minutes
 3 – Bulk (First) Fermentation
-Affected by:
CHAPTER

3
- amount of yeast, salt, and sugar (up to
5% speeds up fermentation, over 12 % slows)
- DDT = 78 - 80° - too cold and it will go
very slowly; too hot and it will go quickly,
resulting in lesser flavor development

- Effects on dough:
- Dough rises and flavor and aroma increases
- Acidification of dough – lower pH, better shelf life
- Dough develops and strengthens

- Retardation – slowing the fermentation process

- Can be done at this step – place under refrigeration
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 4 – Folding / Degassing/Punching Down
Done after bulk fermentation
CHAPTER

 3
 Degasses the dough – allows more CO2 to form which
encourages more yeast activity (yeast slows with too
much CO2)

 Creates strength – align gluten strands / relaxes the

gluten

 Equalizes dough temperature (more folds are needed

for short mixed doughs since they have less gluten
development and will cool down quicker)

 Need dough to be relaxed and expanded

before folding (don’t just watch the time)
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
5 – Dividing / Portioning
CHAPTER

3
◦ Cutting the dough into desired weight

◦ Caution must be paid not to damage the

dough – do not rip; use a bench scraper

◦ Try to cut a dough in one piece – if you get a

lot of smaller cuts of dough, it will be a bit
tougher – always tuck the small pieces under
the dough

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 6 - Pre-Shaping / Rounding
CHAPTER

◦ Pre-shape with final shape in mind 3

 Loose ball for boules (rounds) and batards (football
shaped), cylinders for baguettes

◦ Form smooth skin on outside to promote proper

and better shaping

◦ Keep covered! Especially here in Utah since it is

so dry – other, more humid areas, do not have
the same issue

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 7 – Bench(Intermediate)Fermentation
CHAPTER

◦ After pre-shaping, relax dough 10 – 20 minutes, 3

before final shaping

◦ Relaxes dough for easier final shaping

◦ Fermentation is continuing at this step

◦ Keep covered!

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 8 – Make-Up / Final Shaping
• Forming into the final shape CHAPTER

3
• About 10 – 20 minutes after bench rest – once
the dough has been relaxed
• Final adjustment to the strength of the dough
• If tight crumb desired, shape tightly
• If open crumb desired, shape gently

• Place seam on bottom (some exceptions)

• Make-up as desired
• Pans (loaf), banneton (proofing basket), couch
(proofing linen)
• Hearth breads – baked directly on bottom of oven

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 9 – Final (third) Fermentation (Proofing)
CHAPTER

◦ Gas accumulates and creates internal pressure 3

on gluten web – creates volume and crumb
structure
◦ The dough should be protected from drying out
 Proof box or pan sprayed plastic cover
◦ Ideal is 70 – 80% humidity, 80 - 85° - we use
a proof box, since it controls both of these

◦ Underproofed – firm and bounces back quickly

◦ Overproofed – no bouncing back and deflates
◦ Properly proofed – will bounce back and
leave a small indentation
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 10 – Baking – Scoring
◦ An incision on the skin of hard-crusted doughs
CHAPTER

3
 Sharp knife or lame (double sided razor blade)

◦ Direct impact on volume and final appearance

of the bread
◦ Gives CO2 a path to escape – or it will find the
weakest point (typically the seam that is on the
bottom of the loaf)

◦ Score lightly if overproofed (or, you’ll collapse

the dough
◦ Score deeply if underproofed (helps gain some
volume)
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 10 – Baking – other considerations
CHAPTER

3
◦ Washes:
 Egg (shine/color), milk (color), water (helps with
crust formation)

◦ Oven temperature:
 Consider product when determining temperature
and timing
◦ Large products bake longer and lower than rolls
◦ Rich doughs – baked at a lower temperature (otherwise
will get too dark once baked fully)
◦ Lean doughs – higher temperature to achieve color

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 10 – Baking - Oven Loading
◦ Use of an oven peel or loader
CHAPTER

3
◦ Minimize damage during transferring the dough
– need to be gentle since it is proofed and
could collapse if handled harshly
◦ Load evenly – best color and bake
◦ Steaming – assists in crust crispness and color
 Condensation forms on loaf, allowing larger bread
volume and delayed crust formation
 If possible, steam before and after loading
 Too much steam = pale and thick crust
 Too late steam = inhibits browning ofCengage
© 2009 crustLearning. All Rights
Reserved.
 10 – Baking - Oven Loading
CHAPTER

◦ Steaming – assists in crust crispness and color

 Condensation forms on loaf, allowing larger bread
volume and delayed crust formation – thin layer
of water is on top of loaf, so it needs to
evaporated before the crust starts to form; this
keeps the crust thinner than without steam
 If possible, steam before and after loading
 Too much steam = pale and thick crust
 Too late steam = inhibits browning of crust

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 10 – Baking
CHAPTER

3
 Oven spring – CO2 expansion and retention by
gluten web = rapid rising of loaf

 Dough becomes firm and holds shape, due to:

 122° - starches swell and yeast starts dying
 140° - yeast dies and starches gelatinize = crumb
 165° - gluten coagulates and structure is set

 Crust formation and coloring:

◦ Caramelization – sugars
◦ Maillard Reaction – proteins with sugar

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 10 – Baking
CHAPTER

3
 How do you know when bread is baked?

 Bakers rely on:

◦ Time – all times are a guideline, however
◦ Crust color – deep golden
◦ Sound (“hollow”)
◦ Crust crispness – I always look that the dough
has a developed crust near the base of the loaf
or roll – if not, it will collapse when cooling

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 11 - Unloading / Cooling
CHAPTER

3
◦ Unload with an oven peel – carefully!

◦ The bread goes through a series of

transformation after baking and during cooling

◦ The quality of the bread can be severely

compromised

◦ If baked in pans, remove from pans as soon as

possible to allow moisture to escape

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 12 - Storing
CHAPTER

3
◦ Staling / Degradation– begins immediately –
moisture begins, and continues, to leave the
product right after removing from the oven

◦ If freezing, do so immediately – retains as

much moisture as possible (we use the blast
freezer to do this asap!)

◦ Refrigerating – increases staling (worst at 40°)

◦ Never wrap warm bread – you’ll get

condensation and will lose your crust!
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 Artisan Breads
High quality flours
CHAPTER

 3
 Lower protein flours, higher ash content –
darker, richer flavored
 Use of starters and preferments

 Natural sourdough starter – no commercial yeast

 1. culture is made (chef) – starter is begun
 2. levain is made – this is after the starter has
been developed and is strong enough to leaven
dough
 3. final dough is mixed, using the levain as
leavener
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 Artisan Breads
CHAPTER

3
 Straight dough or sponge method can be used

 Autolyse can be used

◦ Autolyse – mix flour and water and set 15-20
◦ - helps gluten development due to better hydration
◦ - helps protease (enzyme in flour) degrade protein so
dough is easier to work
◦ - salt, yeast, and preferment are added after autolyze,
then mixed as usual
◦ More time consuming

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 Pre-ferments
 (not to be confused with a starter) CHAPTER

- A portion of the dough is mixed and allowed to

ferment before the final dough is mixed
- typically flour, water, yeast, and maybe salt

- Advantages: improves flavor, strength, aroma

- Disadvantages: extra space and time needed
- Mix flour, 60° water, yeast, and salt (if using)
until incorporated – then allow to sit out until
final dough will be mixed
- Different pre-ferments provide different
characteristics © 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
 Preferments – Varieties
- Pate Fermente – 3-6 hours at room temp – can 3
CHAPTER


be leftover from dough

 - Poolish –Poland–100% hydration – liquid

 - Sponge – England – 60–63% hydration – fairly

stiff

 - Biga– Italy - 50–55% hydration –stiff – for

weak doughs
 Addition to dough:
◦ If liquid or soft – add in beginning
◦ If stiff – add once dough begins to form – I like to add
them when the dough and the pre-ferment are similar in
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
texture Reserved.
 Enriched Doughs
CHAPTER

3
 Similar process to lean doughs, but
ingredients vary slightly

 Higher amounts of eggs, sugar, and fat

 Includes different types:

◦ Non-sweetened breads – brioche – high fat,
low sugar
◦ Sweetened breads – challah– high fat and
sugar
© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights
Reserved.
Enriched Doughs - Ingredients
CHAPTER

3
 Same as lean doughs, with the addition of:

 Eggs – improved flavor, crust, color, shelf

life, volume
 Sugar – flavor, sweetness, color, shelf life
 Fat – shortens gluten strands = more
tender crumb; improved flavor, leavener,
shelf life
 Yeast – over 12% sugar – osmotolerant

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
Enriched Doughs - Process
CHAPTER

3
 Typically use sponge method to gain
fermentation before sugar and fat are
added
◦ Or, add these items at previously specified times
(just as in lean doughs)

 Egg wash twice (before and after proof)

 Baking – use steam, and allow to cool
slightly before removing from pans to
slightly develop crust

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.
 Laminated / Rolled-in Doughs
CHAPTER

3
 Fat is incorporated through layering using a
rolling and folding method

 Get a very flaky texture due to the layers

 Precautions need to be taken during folding to

ensure proper layering

 Croissant (yeast-raised), Danish (yeast-raised),

puff pastry (steam-raised)

© 2009 Cengage Learning. All Rights

Reserved.