Two-faced granny
reversible sweater vest
Crochet pattern by Tania, TBTHandmade
Two-faced granny
reversible sweater vest
What you will need:
Medium weight yarn (or any yarn you have)
Hook size 5mm and 4.5mm for the ribbing (or hook size for your chosen yarn)
Measurement tape
Notepad + pen for writing down your measurements
Scissors
Darning needle
Stitch markers
Pattern notes:
This pattern is worked from bottom up, making two identical size and
measurement panels, sewing them together and then adding the neck,
armhole and bottom ribbing.
This is a reversible sweater vest, meaning that you can wear it back to front,
and front to back.
You can make it in one colour, stripy, two colours, whatever you want
This pattern is made to measure, meaning that you can make it cropped, wide,
tight, tight fitting armholes, low armholes, etc according to your own body and
the style/fit that you want it to be
We will turn after each row.
Before you start working on the pattern you need to take some
measurements.
You will also have to make a gauge swatch to determine the length of your
starting chain.
US crochet terms are used throughout this pattern
1
Two-faced granny
reversible sweater vest
Stitches and abbreviations:
CH - Chain
SC - Single crochet
DC - Double crochet
Sk - Skip
Cluster - 3DC in one chain/space
Sl st - Slip stitch
HDC - Half double crochet
Size Bust in cm
XS 71 - 76
S 81 - 86
M 91,5 - 96,5
L 101,5 - 106,5
XL 111,5 - 117
2XL 122 - 127
3XL 132 - 137
4XL 142 - 147
5XL 152 - 158
Taking body measurements needed
A - measure the fullest part of your bust
B - to determine the length of your vest, measure from just under your armpit to
your waist and don’t forget that finished item will be around 5-7cm longer due to
ribbing which will be added later
C - measure from the top of your shoulder to your collarbone to determine the
length of your shoulder strap
D - to determine the length of your armhole, measure from the top of your
shoulder to just under your armpit
2
Two-faced granny
reversible sweater vest
How to determine the length of the starting chain:
Make a chain in multiples of 3 that is around 15cm long
Row 1 - Chain 2 extra and make SC into the second chain from the hook.
make a SC into each chain across, at the end of the row CH2 and turn
Row 2 - Make a DC into the same stitch as the CH2 from previous row, skip
2 chains, make a cluster into the next chain, skip 2 chains, make a cluster,
carry on until the end of the row and make 2DC into the final stitch of the
row. CH2 and turn
Row 3 - Make a cluster into each space between the two clusters from the
previous row. Make 1DC on top of the last stitch of the row. CH2 and turn.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 4-5 rows.
Now comes the math, check how many stitches you have in 10cm of your
sample row.
Take that number and multiply by your A measurement, then divide that
number by 20.
For example, I have 12 stitches in 10cm of my sample, so I multiply it by my A
measurement which is 98cm, and then divide that by 20.
So (12x98)/20 = 58.8
I need my starting chain to be a multiple of 3, so I need to choose the
number closest to 58.8. I then do 58.8/3 = 19.6 then I take only the full
number 19 and multiply by 3, so now I know that my starting chain needs to
be 57 chains
3
Two-faced granny
reversible sweater vest
Body panel (make 2)
You have just calculated how many chains your foundation chain should
be. Make that foundation chain. Then make 2 extra chains.
Make a SC into the second chain from the hook, and in every chain until
the end of the row. CH2 and turn.
Row 1 - Make a DC into the same stitch as the CH2 from previous row.
Skip 2 chains and make a cluster into the next chain. Skip 2 chains and
make a cluster into the next chain. Repeat until the end of the row and
make 2DC into the top of the last chain. CH2 and turn.
Row 2 - Make clusters into each space between the two clusters from
previous row. Make 1DC op top of the last stitch of the row. CH2 and
turn.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until your panel reaches the length of your B. Fasten
off and cut the yarn.
Now we need to mark the armholes. Skip one cluster from each side for
sizes XS - M, and 2 clusters from each side for sizes XL - 5XL and place
stitch markers on each side. This will mark where the armholes will be.
Make sure your stitch marker is in the space between two clusters, and
not in the cluster self.
Turn your work, and attach yarn into the last stitch of the cluster just
before the space with the stitch marker.
CH2 and make a DC into the same stitch. Carry on until you reach the
second stitch marker, make the last cluster into the space with the stitch
marker, and then make 2DC into the next stitch. CH2 and turn.
From here repeat Row 1 and Row 2 until you have reached the length of
your D measurement.
4
Two-faced granny
reversible sweater vest
Shoulder straps
Count 4 clusters from each side, and add stitch markers. This will be
the width of your shoulder strap. If you would like your shoulder strap
to be wider or narrower, you can adjust it here, just don’t forget to
choose the same width for the front panel. Keep in mind that narrower
strap won’t be as comfortable, and don’t make it so wide that you
don’t leave enough space for the head opening.
CH2 and repeat Row 1 until the stitch marker. CH2 and turn.
Repeat Row 2. CH2 and turn.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until you reach your C measurement. Fasten off and cut the
yarn.
Turn your work and join your yarn at the next stitch marker. CH2 and
repeat Row 1 until the end of the row. CH2 and turn.
Repeat Row 2. CH2 and turn.
Repeat Row 1 and 2 until you reach your C measurement. Fasten off and
cut the yarn.
Sewing it all together
Align the shoulder straps (if needed use stitch markers to keep it in place) and
use your preferred method of joining. It can be slip stitches, SC, or ideally use a
darning needle and thread.
Once both shoulders are connected, align the sides (use stitch markers to keep
in place if needed) and sew/crochet these also.
5
Two-faced granny
reversible sweater vest
Ribbing
Now that our vest is completed and all the seams are joined, there is
only one thing left to do (or two things if you also count weaving in
the ends).
Using the same hook as you used for the main part attach the yarn
(on the right side) to the neck/armholes/bottom edge. CH1 and make
a SC on top of each stitch, all the way around the
neck/armholes/bottom edge. It is not necessary to do this bit, but I
find it makes it easier with the ribbing, and also makes it look neater.
At the end sl st into the CH1. Don’t fasten off.
Take your 4.5mm hook (or if you used smaller/bigger hook for the
main part, then take a hook that is half a size smaller for the ribbing)
and chain 5 (if you want your ribbing to be longer or shorter then
chain accordingly more or less chains at this stage).
Step 1 - make a HDC into the second chain from the hook. Make 3
more HDC
Step 2 - Sl st 2 together into the neck/armholes/bottom edge bit and
turn your work
Step 3 - SK1, then make a HDC into each of the 4 chains (or
accordingly another amount of chains if you change the amount of
starting chains). CH1 and turn your work.
Step 4 - Repeat Step 1 to Step 3 all the way around the
neck/armholes/bottom edge. When finished sl st the seam and fasten
off (or use the needle to sew the seam and fasten off).
Weave in the ends, block your work and enjoy wearing it!
