JAN/FEB 2012

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14 DAYS

CASA GANGOTENA / QUITO

14 DAYS IN ECUADOR
The evolutionary allure of the Galpagos Islands has been one of South Americas top draws for nearly a decade, while Ecuadors mainland has often eluded the elite traveler. Not so anymore: Whether youre taking high tea in a former presidential property (now Quitos most fashionable hotel) or chartering the regions newest eight-cabin cruise ship, make this the year you experience the essence of Ecuador.
BY SCOTT GOETZ

ARRIVAL IN QUITO After a first class LAN Airlines flight to Quito, expert Ker & Downey guide Florencia greets you at the gate and whisks you through customs to your private car. As you make your way through this Andean mountaintop capital city, tap into Florencias encyclopedic knowledge of all things Ecuadorian. Arrive at Plaza San Francisco, in the UNESCO World Heritage site Old Town, where youll check into the newly restored, 31-room historic mansion Casa Gangotena, which opened last October and welcomed many of Ecuadors political figures in its past incarnation. The Corner Plaza View Room, with its soaring Art Nouveau ceilings, will be your home for the next two days ($480 a night). Dinner is served in the Grand Parlor, offering local flavors with a contemporary twist.

COLONIAL SPLENDOR This morning make your way across the square to Homero Ortega to invest in a hand-crafted Panama hat (these misidentified masterpieces are traditionally made in Ecuador and can cost up to $1,500). Discover Old Town with Florencia as she accompanies you on a walking tour that includes Independence Plaza, the Presidential Palace and the gilded interiors of La Compaia de Jess, regarded as one of the most beautiful churches in South America. Drive to modern Quito to view the art collection at Fundacion Oswaldo Guayasamn and the Banco Central gold collection. This evening, follow in the footsteps of stars like Danny Glover to Zazu, where Peruvian-born chef Rafael Perez draws a chic international crowd with his tantalizing nuevo Latino tasting menu.

HIGHLAND HACIENDA Today cross over hills to former Ecuadorian president Galo Plaza Lassos 17th century residence, Hacienda Zuleta, which has hosted international dignitaries (including members of the Kennedy clan) over the last century. Spend the day riding Zuleteo horses or hiking the trails searching for endangered condors. Visit the ranchs cheese factory to sample the artisanal cheeses, then make your way to the pre-Inca Caranqui Pyramids and the Condor Huasi Rehabilitation Project. Back at the manor, take a tour through the colonial homes antique furnishings and family heirlooms, then stop into the haciendas gift shop for exquisite embroidery made in the village of Zuleta. Later, youll dine on fresh-caught trout served with fine South American wines.

Contact: Casa Gangotena General Manager Fernando Delgado, 593-2-400-8001; fdelgado@casagangotena.com; www.casagangotena.com

Contact: Homero Ortega Executive President and Partner Alicia Ortega, 593-7-280-9000; aros@homeroortega.com; www.homeroortega.com

Contact: Hacienda Zuleta General Manager Fernando Polanco, 593-6-266-2182; fernando@haciendazuleta.com; www.haciendazuleta.com
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14 DAYS
PRESIDENTIAL PARADISE After a late champagne brunch in La Mirages gardens, shop along Agosto Street in Cotacachi. There are more than 80 leather shops in this town, each with its own unique style. In the afternoon youll drive back to Quito and check into the Presidential Suite at Hotel Plaza Grandethe presidents of Peru, Guatemala and Panama have enjoyed its main square views ($2,000 a night). Dine tonight at La Belle Epoque, the hotels chic French restaurant.

FROM HIGHLANDS TO RAINFOREST WONDERS Wind down the slopes of the western Andes to the Mashpi Rainforest Biodiversity Reserve, located in the cloud forest. At the reserves entrance you'll be met by electric buggies for the drive to the lodge and your first exploration of the jungle, rife with howler monkeys, butterflies and exotic birds. Arrive at the 18-room Mashpi Lodge (set to open in April), and check into the sleek 465-squarefoot Yaku Suite ($1,296 for two nights), designed to maximize the treetop views through its massive glass walls.

COMING UP ROSES Venture to the northern Andes and El Crter, a volcano-top lunch spot on the dormant

calderas edge, where the views and locro

(cheese and potato soup) have been enjoyed by Gloria Estefan. Take a fragrant tour of Hacienda La Compaia rose farmEcuador is one of the worlds main producers of roseswhere you can order the eye-catching blossoms to your home. Follow the lead of Queen Sofia of Spain and wind through the highlands to the 23-room Relais & Chteaux property La Mirage. Dinner this evening is in the hotels renowned restaurant.

Contact: Hotel Plaza Grande Director of Operations Gino Casagrande, 593-2-256-7600; gino.casagrande@swissotel.com; www.plazagrandequito.com

Contact: Mashpi Lodge Project Manager Luis Bermeo, 593-9-560-4529; lbermeo@metropolitan-touring.com; www.mashpilodge.com

Contact: El Crter Commercial Manager Francisco Moscoso, 593-8-405-6262; fmoscoso@elcrater.com; www.elcrater.com

PRESIDENTIAL SUITE / HOTEL PLAZA GRANDE

PRIVATE CHARTER / GRAND ODYSSEY

RAINFOREST ESCAPE / MASHPI LODGE

BAR / LA MIRAGE

TOUR THE TREETOPS Meet Carlos, the head biologist who, along with local guides, mapped out Mashpis trails based on animal behavioral patterns, for a pre-dawn tour that begins with a milelong descent through the canopy in an open gondola. Stops along the way provide eyelevel viewing of toucans and sloths in their treetop homes. As the sun rises, hike deep into the primary forest to find the Cock of the Rock lek, a mating ritual and ornithological wonder of the birding world. An afternoon massage treatment and a dinner of jungle-inspired fusion fare will rejuvenate you for a night walk, when the cloud forest becomes thrillingly alive with jaguars, civets and brightly colored moths.
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ANDES PURIFICATION This morning Ker & Downey has arranged a lakeside purification ritual at Cuicocha Crater with La Mirages shaman-in-residence, Mama Estella, for a serious rebirthing experience that involves incense, fire breathing and massage. After becoming acquainted with the spiritual practices of the Andes indigenous people, explore the town of Otavalo and shop its famous market for textiles and handicrafts. Later that afternoon, drive to Hacienda Cusin for a cooking class. Dine on the fruits of your labor, as Meg Ryan once did, in the formal restaurant filled with giltframed oil paintings, before returning to your suite at La Mirage.

GALPAGOS ODYSSEY Board a private jet and fly west along the equator, over the Pacific Ocean, toward the islands that time forgot: The Galpagos. Opt for a luxurious land and sea itinerary for your staystarting in San Cristbal on the newest and most decadent eight-cabin yacht in the Galpagos, Grand Odyssey. Ted Turner once enjoyed this yacht on a private charter, and it's easy to see why, with its four decks, double Jacuzzis and two stylish master suites. This evening youll meet the crew for an evening champagne toast. Sail into the sunset and watch dolphins and whales surf in your wake.

Contact: Ker & Downey Vice President David Jones, (281) 371-2500; djones@kerdowney.com; www.kerdowney.com

Contact: La Mirage Owner Jorge Espinosa, 593-6-291-5237; mirage1@mirage.com.ec; www.mirage.com.ec

THE ORIGIN OF SPECIES Disembark onto Espaola Island, where wildlife thrives thanks to its remote location. Step over sea lions with newborn pups and thousands of red and black marine iguanas that carpet the hills and beach. After a leisurely photo shoot, set out on a two-hour birding hike through a steep cliffside wonderland like no other: Guests often experience the endangered hood mockingbird stealing water from their bottle as they raise it to drink, while blue-footed boobies gargle in their nests just inches from your face and giant waved albatrosswho claim this island as their only nesting place in the world court one another through a series of honks, dance displays and beak fencing.

THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT This morning youll disembark the ship on a private transfer to Santa Cruz Island with your Galpagos guide Peter Freire. Proceed inland, following the path of Prince Charles to Galapagos Safari Camp, the best place to spot giant tortoises in the wild. For those opting for a land-based itinerary, the camp, styled after African tented lodges, provides the finest elements of luxury while allowing guests to connect with nature. Take a sunset walk to the lava tubes before dining on the camps new viewing platform under the stars.

GOODBYE GALPAGOS Visit the Charles Darwin Research Station this morning to gain a greater understanding of how both the islands and their inhabitants inspired the theory of evolution. This is also the place to pay respects to Lonesome George, a 100-year-old giant tortoise and the last of his kind. Excellent shopping is next at Folklore Olga Fisch, where the high quality, locally made handicrafts, art, jewelry and embroidery will test the limits of your luggage. A private plane will whisk you back to Quito, where the staff and crew of LAN Airlines awaits to pamper you on your flight home.

Contact: Galapagos Safari Camp Manager Katrien Bauters, 593-9-179-4259; katrien@galapagossafaricamp.com; www.galapagossafaricamp.com

Contact: Folklore Olga Fisch Store Owner Margara Anhalzer, 593-2-256-3085 ext. 106; folklore@olgafisch.com; www.olgafisch.com

THE ECUADOR EXPERTS

The rise of high end travel in Ecuador has been swift: Genuine luxury services are new and standards are still being cultivated, especially in the Galpagos, where
OUTDOOR TERRACE / GALAPAGOS SAFARI CAMP

secured employment for island locals along with strict laws on imported food can disappoint those with high expectations. In a region where large package cruises

FRESH CEVICHE / IL GIARDINO

are the norm, Ker & Downeys expertise is an enviable lifeboat. They strongly suggest booking a land and sea combination, since most ships dont yet meet professional yachting standards. To further enhance your experience, your guide will book a cabin on board as your private escort and educator, to insure that the staff delivers above and beyond service. Dine privately with him
CHARLES DARWIN RESEARCH STATION / GALPAGOS

and enjoy the combination of good wine and astonishing evolutionary anecdotes.

Contact: Vice President David Jones, (281) 371-2500;

PIRATES AND A POST OFFICE Wake up on the calm waters of Punta Cormorant and take the panga transfer to Devils Crown with your snorkeling gear for a swim with sea lions, sharks and tropical fish, then kayak around the eroded crater to watch them fish for breakfast. Lunch today will be enjoyed onboard, as you learn tales of pirates, whalers and a century-old murder mystery. Before leaving, motor over to Post Office Bay to drop stamp-less postcards into a wooden post barrel, a 250-year-old tradition created by outbound whalers who would drop off letters so ships returning to Europe could mail them. Indulge in a pre-dinner marine wrap and massage in the Odyssey Spa. DIVING WITH DARWIN Much of the magic of the Galpagos happens under the water, so this morning the camp has arranged a private dive boat charter. Since most cruises dont offer diving and permits are highly controlled, the camps diving safaris offer more flexibility. Spend the day at Gordons Rocks, considered one of the top dive sites in the world. Plunge into a volcanic crater and see scores of brightly colored reef fish, black coral and green turtles. Hammerhead sharks and fur seals are the main attraction when exploring the outer walls. Return to the seaside village of Puerto Ayora in time for a late lunch at Il Giardino, known for its great ceviches and cocktails. LAN Airlines offers non-stop and connecting service to Quito, Galpagos and every major city in South America from the U.S. out of New York, Los Angeles, Miami and San Francisco. New Bulgari amenity kits, 15.4-inch highresolution on-demand personal entertainment screens and 180-degree reclining full-flat seats in LAN Airlines Premium Business Class rival the perks of your private jet. With a stellar wine program headed by Latin Americas only master sommelier, Hector Vergara, enjoy bold bottles that complement chef Hugo Pantones dishes, featuring destination-specific ingredients from South American LAN countries.

djones@kerdowney.com; www.kerdowney.com

Contact: LAN Airlines Marketing Communications Manager Megan Kat Williams, (786) 265-6333; megan.kat@lan.com; www.lan.com
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Contact: Grand Odyssey's Wendy Narvez, 5939-561-3398; marketing@galapagosodyssey.com; www.galapagosodyssey.com

Contact: Il Giardino Co-owner Gino Sorrentino, 593-2-526-627; ilgiardinogalapagos@ hotmail.com; www.ilgiardinogalapagos.com