Abstract

Title of the Paper : Public Private Partnership for sustainable development of Textile Heritage of Awadh Region By: Gyan Singh1 Seema Paul2 As everyone knows that tourism is one of the most relevant economic and sociological phenomena of the present time. In this era, this sector constitutes a structural element of the dynamics of the global economy, since it has become established as one of the most important sectors worldwide. The strategic positioning of peripheral regions may be achieved by identifying aggregated products, the establishment of public-private partnerships (PPPs) and the creation of networks. For over two decades, networking has been accepted as a very important factor of competitive advantage, for both regions and companies in today's world, companies must compete on a global scale, but they must also adjust to their environment, to become more efficient and effective locally. Networks can play a significant role, since they facilitate access to knowledge, resources, markets and technologies. The tourism industry is in a transition phase and is subject to increasingly sophisticated demands. In response, tourist destinations are networking, on a wider scale, to offer a more satisfactory experience to the consumers of tourism. According to Jackson and Murphy (2002), it is governments themselves that identify tourism as a possible means to achieve economic development, given the scarcity of jobs in traditional sectors of the economy. The same authors assert that the development of tourism is being able to produce an integrated territorial destination able to attract and support the volume this may generate in the future.

1 2

Research Scholar, Institute of Tourism Research, University of Lucknow, Lucknow Research Scholar, School of Tourism and Hospitality service sectoral Management, Indira Gandhi National Open University, New Delhi

Introduction
The chikan work of Lucknow is perhaps one of the most popular embroidery works in India. It has a certain grace and elegance, which ensures that it never goes out of style. The word chikan literally means embroidery. It is said to have been originally introduced by Nur Jahan, the beautiful wife of the Mughal emperor, Jahangir. It has since evolved and attained its glory and perfection in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh. The work became popular in a number of important cities of the IndoGangetic plain such as Delhi, Agra, Rampur, Banaras, Patna and Gaya. But the supremacy of Lucknow remained unchallenged. Chikan derives its name from the Persian word, Chakeen, which means rendering of delicate patterns on fabric. Chikan art work involves many knots and is done entirely by hand without the help of machines. Intricate designs are created with needle, thread work and magic of fingers. The first stage includes printing patterns on the chosen fabric with wooden blocks or sketching it manually. Next, the stitches are decided according to the design. Then, the craftsmen get to work with the cloth stretched by a wooden frame or Karchop. Chikankari is a very delicate and intricate shadow work type of embroidery. Initially, the embroidery was done using white yarn, on colorless muslins known as tanzeb. However, today, georgette, chiffon, cotton and other fine fabrics are also being used. From being an embellishment used primarily for decorating clothes, Chikankari embroidery work of India has now spread to cushion covers, pillow covers, table linen and so on. The stitches used in Chikan Kari work of Lucknow are basically of three categories, namely Flat Stitches (Subtle stitches that remain close to the fabric) Embossed Stitches (they give a grainy appearance) Jali Work (Created by thread tension, it gives a delicate net effect) Indian Chikan work basically consists of a number of processes, namely cutting, stitching, printing, embroidery, washing and finishing. Cutting and stitching are done by the same person. Then, printing is undertaken with wooden blocks dipped in dye. After this, embroidery is done, usually by women. The last step in the Chikankari embroidery work is washing and finishing, which may take from 10 to 12 days and involves bleaching, acid treatment, stiffening and ironing. The most common motif used in Chikan Kari work of Lucknow is that of creepers. Floral motifs, which are used either throughout the garment or in corners, include jasmine, rose, flowering stems, lotus, etc. The designs depend for its effect on the variety of stitches used and different grades of threads used to form the patterns which include, the lace like jali, the opaque fillings and the delicacy or boldness of outline and details. The most beautiful

part of chikan work is the open work ground, an effect of drawn thread work is achieved without drawing out any. Tiny raised flowers done in what seem to be French knots are balanced by the flat stem stitch and large areas of open work to prevent either a crowded or too scattered appearance.

A variation of the chikan work is the bakhia or shadow work. Here the work is done from the back, the stitches completely covering the design in herringbone style. The shadow of the thread is seen through the cloth on the right side. To give a richer appearance, the designs are produced with tiny backstitches on the right side over the shadow. A similar effect is created by cutting out tiny flowers and leaves in the same material as the basic fabric and then applying them on the wrong side. The work is done so dexterously that the turned in edges of the cut pieces are scarcely visible from the front of the work. The refinement of taste dictated that not even the seams should be straight. So the material of the kurtas were cut in waves along the sides. The stitches employed are back-stitch, chain stitch, and hemstitch forming an open work pattern, jali or openwork ground. The introduction of color in to the kurtas is a recent innovation.

Zari and Zardozi

The Mughal era in India brought richness to textiles and costumes, the Ari work or Zardosi work is a type of hand embroidery to be introduced in medieval times during the governance of Muhammed Bin Tughlak. The embroidery done on silk sarees, satin is known as Zardosi. Zardosi work is done by laying the color threads mostly gold threads over the material and is very heavy when the weight of the fabric and the metal wire used for embroidery are combined. Zardosi sarees displayed the beauty that combined with wealth, but today other metals are used instead of gold. The earlier artisans of zardosi used only exclusive Resham thread and wire hand embroidery on materials. The designs were original or mainly made according to the current trends are of royal taste. Zardosi work purely display the Wealth in the garments worn by men and women. Today, the Zardosi Sari, Zardosi Designs is well-known and fashionable hand embroidery and purely reflect the traditions. Zardosi Embroidery is the results of amazing talent in the designs and needlework. It has also become a part of the Indian bridal couture. The Bollywood is also not behind to accept Zari Zardosi work to reflect its richness, whether she may be a Madhuri dixit in didi tera devar deewana songs or Hema malini in Baghban.

Zardosi Designs and Zardosi Sarees is well know to the world. The zardosi karigar or Zardosi artisan sits on the floor behind the wooden equipment working on a piece of saree or cloths held taut with two long pieces of wood and thread to enable him to work easily. The speed, at which hands move, with a small pancil like curved needle at the tip, is simply amazing. "This frame we use to tie the cloth so that the material is stiff while we are doing the handwork or embroidery" says Mohini. Zardosi work requires lot of patience and skill that is the reason it is costlier than any other garments. Every needle is generally given numbered such as numbered nine etc. Most of the zardosi workers or zardosi karigar in Navsari are women. These women can be trained on the job. This is an effort to make women financially independent. An average women zardosi workers or zardosi karigar can earn upto 1000 to 4000 in a month. Zardosi design is charged as per the design and the material used for handwork or embroidery. They use variety of material zari, sequence, coree, beeds, or the shiny stones which look like diamonds. The zardosi work is designed according to the need or budget. Simple zardosi work charged less than heavy zardosi work. For bridal wear, the budget costing from ten thousand to twenty thousand. The materials used to do the Zardosi work are bought from the main city market at wholesale rates. The material is also varies from quality to quality. The small work takes a day to be completed, where the exclusive work takes take up to ten days.

Partnerships
Kernagham (1993) defines partnership as a relationship that involves the sharing of power, work, support and/or information with others, to achieve common goals or mutual benefits. Partnerships are recognized as ways of cooperation, of relevant importance for the promotion of a long-term strategic thinking. The obtained results are flexible and innovative, producing policies that meet initial needs and expectations (CHAPMAN, 1998). Partnerships may be formed for several reasons. Riege, Perry and Go (2001) and WTO (2003) identified several reasons leading to a partnership: i) the reduction of risk and costs of accessing new markets, through reinforcement of financial resources and share of human resources,

ii) extending the scope of operational actions, taking as an example small companies that reach international markets by affiliating with companies or groups with a larger scale, iii) acquiring capacities and knowledge, iv) directing customers through more effective distribution channels, v) the creation of new products or services and v) achieving higher levels of efficiency and economies of scale. According to Spink and Merrill-Sands (1999), a set of factors explain the success of a partnership, including the following elements: i) strong vision of the goals to achieve, ii) strong and shared leadership, iii) shared definition and approach to the problem, iv) equitable power, v) interdependency and complementarity, vi) responsibility sharing, vii) attention to the process, viii) communication links,
Credit and recognition Trust and

ix) explicit decision-making process, x) trust and commitment and xi) credit and recognition.

These elements are interdependent, as shown in the following figure, in a way that their successful Commitmne implementation allows the creation and development of antopen and trusting environment.
Communicat ion Vision Explicit Decision making Process

Equitable Power

Mutual Responsibili ty

Problem Shering

Attention to the Process

Leadership Interdependency & complementerity

Figure : Elements of a successful Partnership According to WTO (2000), many strategic partnerships are formed between companies that compete aggressively for the same market but understand the benefits of cooperation to strengthen that competitiveness.

Public-private partnerships (PPPs)

PPPs may be seen as a cooperative alliance between the public and private sectors, in different areas of intervention which are traditionally inherent to the public sector, but without embracing a complete privatization process (LINDER, 1999). The underlying premise of PPPs is to benefit all parties involved, through alignment of their resources and goals. PPPs are becoming more common, because governments realize these agreements may have many tangible and immediate benefits, and the private sector is granted access to new markets and opportunities (PARTNERING..., 2002). According to Kim, Kim and Lee (2005), PPPs are essentially

partnerships between public sector organizations and private sector and corporate investors, for the purpose of conception, planning, funding, construction and supply of infrastructural equipment or exploration of services. ECLAC (2007) adds that PPPs are characterized by the sharing of risks, investment, resources, responsibility and rewards. According to Kim, Kim and Lee (2005), PPPs are not the solution for the complete transfer of all services, since partnerships of this kind have process benefits and risks. According to these authors, the benefits are the following: Cost Reduction - With PPPs, governments are able to perform cost economy, not only for the construction of capital projects, but more importantly, in operating and maintaining services; Risk Share - With PPPs, the government may share the risks with a private partner. The risks may include excess costs, failure to meet the time limit for delivering a service, difficulties in complying with environmental regulations and others, or the risk that earnings may not be sufficient to pay for the operational and capital costs; Improve Service Levels or Maintain Current Service Levels - PPPs may introduce innovation in how delivery of the service is organized and performed. Earnings Improvement - PPPs may set user rates that reflect the true costs for a specific service. Public-private partnerships also offer the opportunity to introduce innovative income origins, that would not otherwise be available through conventional service providing methods; More Efficient Implementation - Efficiency may be achieved through the combination of several activities, such as creation and construction, more flexible acquisitions and hiring, faster approval for more efficient capital funding and decision making; Other Economic Benefits - Greater government involvement in PPPs may aid and stimulate the private sector and contribute to increased employment and economic growth.

As far as risks are concerned, Kim, Kim and Lee (2005) state the following:

Loss of Government Control " PPPs, by their nature, imply the share of risks and decision-making between partners. PPPs that involve significant investment and risks by the private partner often mean greater partner involvement in decisions on how services are delivered, as well as on prices; Greater Spending - In establishing price and fee policies for service users, not all governments consider the "true" service-providing costs. The service provided through PPPs demands price and tax policies that reflect the entire cost; Political Risks and Labour Issues - Many governments lack experience in PPPs and this lack of familiarity with PPPs by governments and interested parties may result in greater political risks. Collective agreements and labour laws applied to the PPP may cause an adverse response from unions or civil servants; Responsibility Issues - With PPPs, the responsibility for service provision is less clear to the public than the traditional method. This may result in public criticism of the partnership and of the involved partner, or demand greater government involvement, to ensure conformity and response to public demands; Insecure Services - Private partners may suffer labour disputes, financial problems or other circumstances preventing them from honouring their commitments; Lack of Competition - Competition leads to innovation, efficiency and lower costs. Governments may not be able to benefit from PPPs if there is a limited number of potential private partners with the know-how or ability to respond to a certain proposal; Reduced Quality or Service Efficiency - If not properly structured, PPP contracts may result in reduced quality of the service, inefficiency or lack of suitable maintenance of an installation; Imbalance in the Selection Process - The conventional forms of service provision may generate potential problems for the government, which may be accused of partiality in the selection of proposals.

According to ECLAC (2007), PPPs may assume many forms to promote tourism as part of the competitiveness of this sector, updating strategies in several areas and using several tools. In this context, the following section deals with PPPs in the tourism sector.

The tourism stakeholder theory

A tourist destination is the combination of products, services and experiences offered in a certain well-defined geographical area that allows perception of the impacts of tourism, as well as management of the demand and supply, in a way that maximizes the benefits of all stakeholders (BUHALIS, 2000). Application of the stakeholder theory to any industry assumes that moral matters become a concern to be disclosed in the companies' management (ROBSON; ROBSON, 1996). The marketing strategies adopted by any destination should consider the desires and expectations of all stakeholders, such as the resident population, entrepreneurs and investors, tourists, tour operators, intermediaries and other interest groups. One of the major difficulties is to assure the usage of public assets like natural resources, for the benefit of all stakeholders and at the same time preserve those resources for forthcoming generations. Conflicts often arise, especially if the stakeholders intend to benefit from the existing resources in a short-term perspective (BUHALIS, 2000). The relationships between tourism stakeholders, in the perspective of Buhalis (2000), are clear in the following figure

Resident population

Tourism activity

Natural Resource (Interest and Benefits)

Tourists

Tour Operator

Public Sector & Government

Figure : relationship between stakeholders in tourism The stakeholder theory works as a normative tool in tourism planning that may be used to promote cooperation between the fundamental parties involved in the planning process. Stakeholder interaction has highlighted the importance of the resource of partnerships, as a way to mobilize the different groups of intervening bodies and coordinate effectively the interests of each (ROBERTS; SIMPSON, 2000).

Conclusion
In Lucknow there are a large number of tourist group who are interested in purchasing the local handicraft and chikan, zari and zardozi work. But the entrepreneurs want a little more attention from the government to promote these products in an international market. Advertising is a costly affairs and most of these shops are in unorganized sector, those who are in organized sector they promote only their products not the whole textile heritage. Now a days workers to produce these products are old age person mostly from the age group of 55 to 75 years. Manufacturers says that mostly workers who are related to these products are victim of sectoral change generally leave because low wages structure. Main problem is of middleman in this sector, government must have to control these middle mans and distribute these profit among the workers of these products.

References and further readings

1. Public-private partnership: new opportunities for meeting social needs, Harvey

Brooks, Lance Liebman, Corinne Saposs Schelling 1984

2. Public-private Partnership Model in India: Concepts,Issues and Outlook, N. Janardhan

Rao, Amit Singh Sisodiya, 2010

3. public private partnership case studies - Profiles of success in providing environmental

services, DIANE Publishing Company 1995

4. Public-Private Partnership In Nation Building, P.J. Gandhi, M.J. Joseph, 2005 5. public private partnership - Success and failure factors for in-transition countries, Paolo

Urio 2011
6. Public-Private Partnership, Lambert M. Surhone, Miriam T. Timpledon, Susan F.

Marseken 2010
7. Policy, finance and management for public-private partnership, Akintola

Akintoye, Matthias Beck - 2008

Web references
1. http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?pid=S1679-39512010000400003&script=sci_arttext 2. http://articles.timesofindia.indiatimes.com/2011-10-24/goa/30315813_1_tourism-

development-ppp-projects-ppp-models