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Shades of success

Ray-Ban. Tom Cruise and Will Smith built their careers on the

brand. The Blues Brothers wouldn’t be the same without their

Wayfarers. Sonny Crockett? Same deal. Even Barack Obama is

known to always carry a pair of Ray-Ban sunglasses. Want to

hear a funny thing? Ray-Ban isn’t the American icon you thought

it was. Not anymore. Because in 1999 Bausch & Lomb sold the

brand for a reported 600 million dollars to Luxottica, an Italian

eyewear company based in Milan. And another thing: it’s done

the brand a world of good. Jochem Eijmers and Patricia Wiegman

of Luxottica Nederland tell us all about icons, love and the power

of less is more.
“The only thing the competition can do, is help us grow even bigger”
CEO Andrea Guerra | Number of employees 55,000 | Company revenues
€6b | Brand promise Never Hide | Brand values Genuine and timeless | Main
target group 25-50-year olds; 70% men, 30% women | Primary advertising
media Integrated campaign; TV, print, outdoor and online
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Eternal life
Ray-Ban’s fame was built by its two most famous models, the elegant Aviator point is its large, broad target group that structurally guarantees sales Roots & story of the brand
and the sturdy, thick-rimmed Wayfarer. Back in the days of old, the Aviator and growth. The secret to sweeping a field of that magnitude is simple: it’s Leonardo Del Vecchio started Luxottica from his own home, slowly ex­pan­
was the go-to model for pilots, drivers and moviestars that needed protec­ all about the people behind the glasses. While the product remained the ding until about 90 percent of his hometown Agordo, a few clicks north of
tion from the glare of the outside world. Not only because they looked cool same, Ray-Ban started using models in the early-twenties range instead of Venice, worked in his factory. Del Vecchio abhorred the American 24-hour
as hell, but because they really kept the light out. 35-40-year olds. And presto! The desired demo of young cool people with economy, and put family first always. That’s why he insisted that workers in
a considerable budget and the will to accessorize went with Ray-Ban. With the same families were dealt the same shifts to give them a chance to eat
One problem a successful brand will encounter at one time or another is the same loyal enthusiasm their brand-ambassador parents still do. dinner together. In Italy it’s still that way. It hasn’t influenced Luxottica’s
Coolbrands: Caroline in discussion with Jochem Eijmers and Patricia Wiegman
that younger generations will start associating it with their parents or, even success in the least. Currently the company has nine factories; two are in
worse, their grandparents. And that’s mostly a bad thing, as the future thrives Who needs a crystal ball anyway? China, seven in Italy. Luxottica produces eyewear for all brands it carries,
on leaving the past behind where it belongs, stuck in the rut of being old and For Ray-Ban quality reigns supreme over fleeting fads, exactly the reason why like Oakley, Persol and Arnette, to name a few. Apart from its own brands,
mouldy. Ray-Ban is no stranger to this problem, being genuine since 1937 the brand doesn’t aspire to be a trendsetter. It leaves the future-gazing to the it’s also licensed to sell designer glasses with names like Prada, Chanel,
and all. But how did Luxottica deal with the feared oldtimer syndrome and fashion houses, that in the last five years elevated the status of sunglasses Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, DKNY and Polo Ralph Lauren.
come out even stronger for it? from functional to must-have accessory. To great acclaim from the public, by
the way. Because where fashionable fragrances and make-up go unseen, a In the Netherlands Luxottica has eighteen brands, of which Ray-Ban is the
The Italian job pair of name brand glasses is a reasonably affordable way to show the world biggest by far. Luxottica’s glasses are all made to order, by hand. The company
Luxottica’s founder, Leonardo Del Vecchio, made a conscious choice not your excellent taste in brands. The eyewear industry is all applause as well; doesn’t have downweighing supplies but produces about 150 pairs of one
to communicate the fact that Ray-Bans are now made in Northern Italy. people now will buy up to two pairs of glasses a year, as opposed to making model and sees where it takes off from there. That doesn’t make Ray-Ban
Watering down the brand’s strong American image would have rendered no them last for several seasons. glasses expensive; on the contrary. As far as affordable quality eyewear goes,
added value at all. When he bought Ray-Ban Del Vecchio decided to keep Ray-Ban is one of your best bets on the market.
silent for a while, and stopped all communication to think about what to do Ray-Ban will follow a trend where it leads, but stays close to the source. And
with the brand. After the move to Italy was complete, Luxottica repositioned ensure that the scene knows that the genuine source has been Ray-Ban since
and rebranded Ray-Ban to step back into the sun again. New and improved, 1937, by nurturing its icon models through strategically planned campaigns
but as trustworthy as ever. that help jump-start yet another Aviator or Wayfarer trend. Worldwide a
hype can last about five years max, but in the Netherlands trends have a lot
Del Vecchio changed one important thing about its new brand: distribu­ less staying power – three years is now the average lifespan. Ray-Ban isn’t
tion. Jochem: “Ray-Bans are no longer available everywhere in the Nether­ worried though. The brand has seven icon models at its disposal, to rotate
lands, but are only sold at opticians and De Bijenkorf. Simply because these forever and ever. Just so you know: the Clubmaster is next.
retailers know their business when it comes to glasses.” And the public
agrees, as sales are up ever since Ray-Ban disappeared from the dusty aisles Let the sun shine in
of gas stations and department stores. Expanding its range to normal glasses – correction frames, as they’re called
in the industry – is another direction Ray-Ban is exploring right now. It never
Per i ragazzi e le ragazze really considered this market, as Ray-Ban made its business by banning rays,
The arrival of the new brand came with a history of full-on, all-American not letting them in. But when research showed that the public was already
marketing; a concept that the quality-minded Italians couldn’t quite grasp convinced that the brand had had correction frames in its catalogue for a
at first. With the brand, it took Bausch & Lomb’s head of marketing back long time, Ray-Ban only needed to follow suit. And there you go.
home to smooth over the transition. Once inspired, the company moved to
swanky offices in Milan, the hip and happening city where all the cool brands Although the brand is very happy to have reached its target of getting its
- including Luxottica’s licensed brands - set up shop. Ray-Ban has kept its own premium-quality basic glasses to the end consumer, it refuses to kick back
marketing department, setting the course to keep the brand in the public and relax. Its print, TV and outdoor campaigns are unrivalled by the rest of
eye. the industry and will have a long-term character, lasting about three years
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to fully exploit their possibilities. But Ray-Ban can afford to be somewhat
It still focuses on authenticity with the slogan ‘Genuine since 1937’, and whimsical about its promotions too, and chooses to let the public share in
stears it mainstream instead of adding other attributes Luxottica could the joys of having such a strong image. With special Ray-Ban Days at retailers
easily boast. Leaning on the image of the Italian classic suit with sunglasses and other events it will continue loading the brand with genuine love. And
or shouting from the rooftops that all glasses are handmade would only if you thought that the Americans know what loving is, you haven’t met the
dilute the message and alienate part of the audience. The brand’s strong Italians. Bellissima!