REPORT ON THE PROJECT

Sponsored by Government of India Ministry of Textiles Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Design and Technical Development Workshop New Delhi On Parsi Embroidery DECEMBER 1 - 15, 2006

PARZOR FOUNDATION F17 Hauz Khas Enclave New Delhi 110 016

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

CONTENT

- ACKNOWLEDGEMENT - INTRODUCTION - PROJECT OBJECTIVE - BACKGROUND OF CRAFT - STITCHES - IMPORTANT MOTIFS - DESIGNERS PROFILE - DESIGN CONSULTANTS PROFILE - CONCEPT - METHODOLOGY - INTERACTION - NEW SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT - SHOWCASE - DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES - LIST OF DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES - LIST OF PARTICIPANTING ARTISANS - RECCOMENDATIONS FROM PARTICIPANTS

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

THE PARZOR FOUNDATION is greatly indebted to the Office of the D.C. Handicrafts, Textile Ministry for unstinting support over the years. We here acknowledge the initial enthusiasm and support of Mr. Wajahat Habibullah, Secretary, Ministry of Textiles and Ms. Tinoo Joshi, D.C. Handicrafts, who started this collaboration. At that time Mr. G.K. Asthana, Mr. Santosh Kumar, Mr. S.K. Jana, Mr. Gaurav Kumar, Mr. Deepak Sen provided assistance and advice, which continues to be invaluable even today. With this support, the Project on Parsi Embroidery has reached international levels. We have been lucky in the continuing support of the D.C. Handicrafts particularly the help we have received from the present D.C. Handicrafts, Mr. Sanjay Aggarwal, and his team Mr. Aima, Mr. Raizada at the Okhla office, Mr. A.K. Handoo, Mr. V.P. Thakur and those in the field, Mr. Mishra, Mr. Parmar and others in the Western Region. We are grateful to experts who guided us ranging from Ms. Rosemary Crill of the V&A Museum, London, Mrs. Jasleem Dhamija, Ms. Rta Chisti, Mr. Rahul Jain, and all the individuals who have shared their Heirloom collections of Parsi Textiles and Embroidery in all parts of India, Iran and China with Parzor researchers. We also thank SEWA, Mr. Asif Shaik, Mrs. Dolly Bhesania and Ms. Shirin Bhesania who have participated in our revival work across India. Above all we pay tribute to our Founder President Lt. Gen. A. M. Sethna, Padma Bhushan, PVSM, AVSM, whose dynamic leadership and enthusiasm for reviving this Heritage of Humanity led all of us team members to strive for his degree of excellence and commitment. This module is dedicated to his memory.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

INTRODUCTION

Parsi Textiles and Embroidery are an amalgam of four cultural traditions, the Persian Chinese, Indian and European, both in technique and motif. This ancient Heritage of Humanity has descended to us in an unbroken line from Bronze Age Iran. It is truly an intercultural craft, which has enriched humanity through its vibrancy and remarkable skill. Parsi Textiles and Gara Embroidery was never studied in its historical and technical details till the UNESCO Parzor Project took up this challenge with the first work of research Threads of Continuity, by Ashdeen Lilaowala who studied the prehistoric art of Zoroastrian weaving during his student days at the NID Ahmedabad. Painting With A Needle is our Module and we hope to produce a seminal book on the subject, which will prove to the world the diversity of Indian Craft, the skill of its Karigars and the dedication with which the arts and crafts of India are made to flourish by some of our most dis-empowered citizens. We dedicate our research and revival work to the women and men, who across generations have kept rare skill sets alive, who are willing to experiment and learn and who constantly teach us the value of our heritage. We hope that the revival of Parsi Embroidery and its contemporization, which has begun with the great support and guidance of the D.C. Handicrafts Office, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, will benefit not only the Parsi Community but the craft community of Indian Karigars from every part of India and every community. We hope to make this beautiful, ancient craft appreciated, understood and valued across the world.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

PROJECT OBJECTIVE
The UNESCO Parzor Project has been working in diverse fields. For the past four years Parzors Craft Documentation programme has also continued across India. Ashdeen Lilaowala and Priya Mani, Textile Designers from the National Institute of Design (NID), Ahmedabad have recorded Parsi crafts in areas ranging from Navsari to Madras. Parsi crafts and their designs are a special contribution of this community, which have so far not received the acknowledgement deserved. Garas, Kors, Jhablas carry specific designs, which are often found on Tanchoi fabrics, Torans and even chalk boxes. Can this be just a coincidence? Parsis today seem to forget a great tradition of creativity, which has produced beautiful crafts in the past. The aim of the crafts module of the Parzor Project is to rekindle interest and pride in this tradition while at the same time recording it for posterity. In the first ever-serious research into the origin, history, development and technique of what is known as Parsi embroidery, the Parzor Project has traveled across India and plans many more field trips in the country while also tracing roots and routes from Yazd and Kerman in Iran to Hong Kong, Shanghai and Canton in China. Many discoveries have already been made the Zoroastrian reverence for nature has been celebrated in the motifs of their embroidery since time immemorial, the Rooster, symbolizing Sarosha and the Divine Fungus seen regularly on textiles give protection, especially to children when embroidered on their Jhablas, Taoist symbols decorate Parsi Kors, the Sassanian Circlet of Pearls traveled from Zoroastrian Persia to China in the Tang Dynasty and then traveled back to the Parsis embroidered on the gara. So Parsi embroidery is not just expensive, beautiful silk embroidery conceived, designed and executed by skilled Chinese craftsmen and simply ordered by prosperous Parsi traders who were involved in the China trade for their women folk, it is much more.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

PROJECT OBJECTIVE
The intermingling and connection between the Chinese materials and motifs and the Parsis who wore these garments appears to go much beyond a mere buyer- supplier relationship. The historical trade in silk between Surat and China, the incorporation of European designs and even the Gujarati Mochi stitch, all went to create a fabric which was unique. It is this aspect of Parsi craftsmanship and taste, which needs exploring and recording. This will establish that both at the stage of ideation in the choice of special motifs, designs and at the stage of production Parsis, especially women were involved. The Kors and Garas worn by Parsi women were distinctive, even in the rich textile heritage of India and were popularly known as the Parsi Sari in all parts of the country. The Ministry of Te x t i l e s , Government of India has realized the heritage value of Parsi embroidery. It is a b e a u t i f u l addition to the magnificent textile heritage of India and the government is keen not only to protect but also project it. Today as Parsi settlements in the interiors become empty, the Indian government and Unesco wish to ensure that this craft heritage does not vanish. The Commissioner Handicrafts and the Textile Ministry have taken great interest in the work done so far and have given a grant under their craft development projects, to take this study further. In order to endure, a craft needs to cater to the needs of the time. While the classic embroidery patterns of the gara and kor will be a treasured part of Parsi heritage, the actual craft technique needs to be invigorated. In a constructive effort to preserve and adapt this craft for the community and the country, Mr. Ashdeen Lilaowala will conduct craft seminars/workshops in Ahmedabad, Navsari, Mumbai and New Delhi.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

PROJECT OBJECTIVE

These fifteen-day sessions are especially aimed at creating awareness and sensitizing the Parsi community giving a sense of pride in this wonderful heritage. The workshops will draw upon the expertise of some of Indias best designers as well as older Parsi practitioners of the craft both interacting with and motivating the chosen craftsmen. After familiarizing them with the Parsi embroidery tradition, the workshops would encourage them to initiate new ideas to carry the craft forward. A craft can only prosper if the craftsmen are patronized to innovate and create new forms, thus constantly challenging and improving their own skills. There is an assurance of benefit to the craftsmen involved. Effort will be made to ensure that the contemporizing for product development would be sensitive to the original and carry the hallmark of Parsi tradition. Parzor hopes to encourage young Parsis to continue an ancient heritage as well as use the sessions as an opportunity for enterprising Zoroastrians to build teams, collaborate with craftsmen and develop a business module, which will take this heritage into the future. The workshops will empower members of the community with technical knowledge, introduce them to professional designers as well as teach basic management skills, packing of products and interaction with prospective buyers.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

BACKGROUND OF CRAFT
Parsi Embroidery A Bronze Age Culture Parsi Embroidery is an Artistic & Cultural amalgam of Persian, Chinese, Indian and European influences. The community accounts verbally passed down and still recalled by the elderly across India from Bharuch to Kolkata confirm the role the Chinese pherias played in familiarizing Parsi women with Chinese embroidery. Parsi elders recall how these cycle wielding Chinese men would leave their bundles of embroidered silk cloth on verandahs of Parsi homes, while they made their rounds selling their silk ware. When they returned in the afternoons, Parsi women, also free from their house hold chores would sit on the verandahs with them observing them working on their small embroidery frames, thus learning their special embroidery stitches including their use of curved needles. With this newly acquired skill Parsi women created their own Garas, Jabhlas and Kors. The creations by Parsi women exhibited their preference for certain motifs such as the rooster and fish, which have significance in Zoroastrian tradition as against dragons and snakes popular in Chinese tradition. The Chinese had over centuries perfected the craft of embroidery in their great Embroidery Schools. Archaeological finds have established that Chinese embroidery was first produced during the Shang Dynasty (1600-1027 BC). They were therefore well trained in their use of the finer aspects of colour, stitch, stylization of the motifs and overall balance, proportion and harmony in their work. As the demand from the Parsis increased, Indo-Chinese settlements dealing in embroidery are believed to have flourished in Western India. The craftsmanship of the embroidery and designs done in India was distinguishable from the original Chinese. Enterprising Parsis traveled and settled in other parts of India especially the Deccan and hence acquired local skills like Zardozi embroidery and incorporated it in their embroidery repertoire. With European influence came European stitches, designs and new shades of colour. There was a large crossover of vocabulary as Parsis imbibed the best from east and west to create a special form.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

STITCHES

SATIN STITCH

EXTENDED STITCH

BOUND STITCH

VOIDED STITCH

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

STITCHES
EMBOSSED SATIN

COUCHING

FRENCH KNOTS

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

IMPORTANT MOTIFS

CHINA- CHINI MOTIF

BAT MOTIF

CHAKLA - CHAKLI MOTIF

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

IMPORTANT MOTIFS

PAISLEY MOTIF

DIVINE FUNGUS MOTIF

ROOSTER MOTIF

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DESIGNERS PROFILE

Ashdeen Lilaowala is a graduate of the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad with a diploma in Textile Design. Apart from various classroom projects, Ashdeen has worked with Bandhani craftsmen affected by the Kutch earthquake in 2001. Ashdeen has done his craft documentation project on Kusti weaving titled Threads of Continuity A Study of the Textiles used in Rituals and Customs of the Zoroastrian Community. This monograph is ready for publication. After graduating, he worked for a year at Rhoda Textiles and is currently juggling a career between Parzor and Ruh-a brand of ready-to-wear clothing for women. At Parzor, Ashdeen is conducting Parsi embroidery workshops and also organized the first-ever symposium titled Painting with a Needle.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DESIGN CONSULTANT

Mrs. Ava Khullar has done her M.A. Political Science, Occidental College, Los Angeles, U.S.A. She started her career in 1961 as Programme Officer, Indian Institute of Public Administration, New Delhi, and was involved in organizing International seminars and conferences. From 1963 to 1965 worked as lecturer in Parle College, Mumbai. In 1965, She joined the Centre for the Study of Developing Societies (CSDS) in New Delhi as Programme Secretary and Research Officer and continued with the CSDS till 1981. The Centres research is interdisciplinary and has done pioneering work in grass root studies of the Indian nation .As part of the programme of minority studies she conducted a Socio-Economic and Demographic Study of the Parsis of Delhi. This was a 100% survey of the community and gave out some very interesting leads regarding the communitys family and marital patterns and the demographic transition it is passing through. My interest in the condition of the Parsis has since then continued, and at the behest of the Federation of Zoroastrian Anjumans of India I have carried out similar studies of Parsis in Belgaum, Vizagapatanam, Bhavnagar and collected data in several places. She is currently associated with UNESCO Parzor which works on the Preservation of Zoroastrian Heritage and Culture. The project, divided into ten modules is designed to examine the issue of the historical transition of the Parsi community and preservation of its ancient cultural heritage. Several research studies have been initiated to better understand the family and marital patterns, the problems of the aged and the youth. Mrs. Khullar has been actively involved with the Textile Module and has assited in conducting its Design Workshops.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

CONCEPT

The concept of the workshop was to recreate Parsi gara embroidery and contemporise it for new commercial products. The products have been designed keeping its marketability and production cost in mind. The colours used for the base fabrics are largely black and maroon, which are also traditionally used in Parsi Embroidery. The embroidery has been done largely in cream and white which make the products classic and yet modern. Soft pastels and other commercially viable colours have been used in other designs to give variety to the collection. The original Gara motifs have been used as each motif has significance and can be marketed with a story along with the product. All craftsperson have been sensitized to the details involved in embroidering the delicate floral and bird motifs. The workshop aims to project Parsi embroidery in a new light and be widely available.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

METHODOLOGY

The workshop commenced with a brief introduction of Parsi Embroidery to the participants. The participants included skilled and semi skilled craftsperson from West Bengal and various members of the Parsi community. They were explained the nuances and the details that differentiate Parsi Embroidery from other crafts in India. The craft, which is an artistic and Cultural amalgam, was highlighted through pervious documentation and with the help of digitized images collected on various field trips across the country. This information gave some reference to crafts people who were not aware of the craft. Wooden frames or addas were set up by craftsperson. Each step in setting up the frame was carefully supervised and monitored and no short cuts were allowed. After the fabric was uniformly stretched, various designs were printed on the fabric. A variety of borders and motifs had been traced and pinned before the workshop. Different techniques and stitches were used to embroider. Samples were created using Satin stitch and its variations that are largely used in Parsi Embroidery. Aari also can be effectively used in Parsi embroidery and this technique is much faster and economically viable. The technique can be altered to give an illusion of hand stitches, like the reverse aari can be used to give the effect of khakha stitch and open stitch aari can be used to imitate satin stitch.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

INTERACTION

Above: Parsi Women from Delhi showed alot of interest in the workshop and actively participated throughout. Below: Craftsperson doing satin stitch on the adda.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

INTERACTION

Participants working on the adda.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

INTERACTION

During the course of fifteen days there were several visitors who came to see the work being done. Many designers were also invited to give their feedback and comments on the craftsmanship, the use of colours and marketability of the products. A lot of positive feedback was given about the choice of designs and its contemporisation to lifestyle products such as cushions, bags and lamps.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

INTERACTION

Above: Women from Delhi showed alot of interest in the workshop and actively participated throughout. Below: Dr. Shernaz Cama interacts with the Craftsperson to explain the nuances of Parsi Embroidery.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

INTERACTION

Designer Ashdeen Lilaowala explains different techniques to the craftsperson.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

NEW SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT

Various designs, which have been digitally documented, were printed as reference sheets for craftsmen. Each design is then traced on to coated sheets as per required size. These sheets are then pricked with a needle and used to transfer the design onto the fabric. The craftsmen then start to embroider using pre-selected colours. Different techniques were used for the embroidery such as satin stitch, aari satin, aari embroidery and French knots. Each technique creates a different and unique texture and gives movement to the motifs. Satin, which is the most authentic of the stitches, is also the most effective. This stitch is ideal for rendering and shading of motifs. Variations of satin such as encroached and void were also used in the samples. Though satin is ideal for Parsi embroidery it is also time consuming and therefore not cost effective for small household products. Aari satin done with an aari needle gives the impression of satin but is not as fluid as satin. The technique is extremely effective as it is faster than satin and there are more craftsmen who are familiar with aari than satin stitch.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

NEW SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

SHOWCASE

Dr. Shernaz Cama, Director, Parzor Foundation welcomed the guest and underlined the need to revive the craft which will be able to benefit various clusters of women and crafts men across the country. Mrs. Ava Khullar then spoke on Parsi Embroidery and the role that Parzor foundation has played in documenting and reviving this rare and ancient craft. She highlighted the work done at previous workshops in Ahmedabad, Navsari and Mumbai. Her audiovisual presentation also explained the various stitches used in Parsi embroidery.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

SHOWCASE

Mr. Ashdeen Lilaowala presented his paper Parsi Embroidery- An Artistic and Cultural Amalgam. He emphasized on the point that Parsi embroidery was not merely a craft imported by the Parsis in India from the Chinese. Persian, Chinese, Indian and European influences have all been fused to create a unique traditional textile. The participants then interacted with the skilled craftsperson to see the various embroidery techniques being used by them. Setting up of an adda was also demonstrated. The participants showed a keen interest in the craft and appreciated the effort which went into create every piece. Specially prepared Parsi snacks were served to all the participants and craftsperson.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

SHOWCASE

Parzor also conducted a one-day workshop on 9th December at the Jungalwala Hall. The workshop was specially organized for working women who are extremely interested in the craft but were unable to participate for all fifteen days. Parzor organized a display of original Parsi embroidered textiles, which included Garas, Jhablas and kors. Original samples of Tanchoi Fabrics, which are also a contribution by the Parsi Community, were displayed at the hall.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Telephone directory

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Toilet Pouch

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Small butterfly cushion

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Desk accessories

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Border Bangle

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Embroidered book mark

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Draw string bag

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Sling Bag

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Border stole

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Chrysanthemum spectacle case

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Rooster CD Cover

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Brocade Coaster

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Presentation Ring Binder

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Floor lamp

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Ladies Saree Blouse

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

DEVELOPED PROTOTYPES

Womens Top

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI

RECCOMENDATIONS FROM PARTICIPANTS

The aim of the workshop was to create a variety of products, which could be used for the home and small accessories for women. Several products have been developed at the workshop. All products have been costed and a small survey about its marketability was carried out. The products have been highly appreciated and many enquires by boutique owners and exporters have been made.

PARZOR PARSI EMBROIDERY WORKSHOP : 1-15 DECEMBER 2006 : NEW DELHI