Eyewear Frame Selection

Unit 1: Face Shape Analysis

A Basic Guide to Face Shapes
Three Keys:
 Frame shape should
contrast with face shape
 Frame size should be in
scale with face size
 Eyewear should balance
personal proportion
Essential Elements:
 The seven basic face
shapes
 Identifying shape,
analyzing proportions
 Selecting frames that
enhance features
A Basic Guide to Face Shapes
The Ideal Face Shape
 The oval face is considered the
ideal face shape in the western
world
 The oval face is epitomized by
Leonardo DaVinci’s Mona Lisa
A Basic Guide to Face Shapes
Two General Categories of Faces
1. Angular (square/rectangular)
2. Curvilinear (round/oval)

Although faces may be classified

as predominately composed of
angular features or curvilinear
features, it should be noted that all
faces are a combination of angular
and curvilinear lines.
A Basic Guide to Face Shapes
Seven Basic Face Shapes
 The combination of facial
curves and angles is further
subdivided into the seven basic
face shapes
 Round, oval, square, base-
down triangle, base-up triangle,
oblong and diamond
How to Analyze Face Shapes
Balance and Harmony:
 Well-chosen eyewear can
restore balance to the face
 The optician must identify
misproportions and determine
how faces deviate from the oval
ideal
 The goal of frame selection is to
find a frame that contrasts with
the shape of the face and
emphasizes the complimentary
lines of the face
How to Analyze Face Shapes
Measuring the Width of the Face
1. The width of the face is
divided into five sections
about the width of an eye
2. Identify unequal sections
such as narrow set eyes or
wide cheeks
3. The face may be either too
wide or too narrow when
compared to the oval ideal
How to Analyze Face Shapes
Measuring the Width of the Face
1. A narrow fifth between the
eyes indicates that the eyes
are close together
2. A wide fifth between the
eyes indicates wide-set
eyes that are farther apart
3. Frames are chosen to make
the eyes appear further
apart or closer together to
restore facial balance
How to Analyze Face Shapes
Measuring the Length of the Face
1. The face is divided into
three horizontal sections:
a. Hairline to browline
b. Browline to tip of nose
c. Tip of nose to chin
2. Identify unequal sections
3. The face may be either
too long or too short when
compared to the oval ideal
Frames and Facial Balance
Facial Proportion and Balance
 Perfectly balanced faces
are rare
 Frames are used to
balance facial inequities
 If the middle third of the
face is too long, a deeper
frame will minimize the
imbalance
Frames and Facial Balance
Facial Proportion and Balance
1. If the top third of the face
is too long with a high
forehead, low temples will
help restore balance to the
face
Dots to Determine Face Shape
Dot and Define:
1. Visualize dots placed on
each side of a patient’s
brow, cheek, and jaw
2. The dot method will help to
identify the shape and size
of the face
3. The dots can also help
identify strong and weak
points
Dots to Determine Face Shape
Dot and Define:
1. Photographs of faces can
be used to practice placing
dots and identifying face
shapes
2. Use polaroid snapshots of
patients to demonstrate the
system of analyzing face
shapes and balance
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Oval Face: Description
1. The oval face is
considered the ideal shape
because of its mostly
balanced proportions
2. Frames should maintain
the natural balance of the
oval face
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Oval Face: Tips
 Select frames that as wide or
wider than than the broadest
part of the face
 Avoid low, swooping temples,
which will unbalance the face
 Keep frames in proportion to
the face
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Diamond Face: Description
1. Diamond-shaped faces are
narrow at the eyeline and
the jawline with a small
forehead and chin
2. Cheekbones are frequently
high and dramatic.
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Diamond Face: Description
1. The diamond is the rarest
face shape
2. Frames should widen the
forehead and jaw and
minimize the temples and
cheekbones
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Diamond Face: Tips
 Choose frames that are
heavy on top but avoid low
temples
 Frame sides can be straight
or rounded.
 Rimless frames
 Square frames or frames with
a straight top and curved
bottom
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Round Face: Description
1. The round face is full with
few angles
2. The width and length are in
roughly equal proportions
3. Frames should make the
face appear longer and
thinner
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Round Face: Tips
 Eyewear that creates angles
or horizontal lines will make
the face appear more angular
 Slightly angular frames will
narrow the round face
 Avoid excessively rounded or
square styles which will
exaggerate facial roundness
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Round Face: Tips
 High or mid-height temples
help create a longer profile
 A clear bridge widens the
eyes
 Colored temples add width
 Frames should be wider than
they are deep
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Square Face: Description
1. The square face is
characterized by a strong
jaw line, a broad forehead,
and a wide chin and
cheekbones
2. Frames should make the
face look longer
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Square Face: Tips
 Gently curved narrow styles
will minimize squareness and
lengthen the face
 The frames should be wider
than the widest part of the
face
 Frames should be more
horizontal than vertical
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Square Face: Tips
 Select frames with weight on
top
 Oval shapes with mid-level to
high temples
 Color or skiving (ornamental
engraving) on the frames’
upper temporal corners will
lengthen the face
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Base-down Triangle Face: Description
1. The base-down triangular
face has a narrow forehead
that widens at the cheek
and chin areas
2. Frames should add width to
the forehead while
softening and narrowing the
appearance of the jaw,
chin, and cheeks
3. The ideal face for glasses
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Base-down Triangle Face: Tips
 Frames should accent the
eye area and be wide enough
to balance the jaw line
 Frame tops should be slightly
heavy and contain skiving
 Frame bottoms should angle
inward
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Base-down Triangle Face: Tips
 Avoid low temple styles and
use mid-level to high temple
styles—depending on the
length of the face
 Use square, straight-top
aviators or metal frames with
rimless bottoms
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Base-up Triangle Face: Description
1. The base-up triangular face
is characterized by a very
wide forehead and high
cheekbones which narrows
gradually to the chin
2. Frame should add width
below the eyeline to offset
the narrow chin
3. The worst face for glasses
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Base-up Triangle Face: Tips
 Try frames that are wider at
the bottom
 Other choices include aviator,
butterfly, or low-triangle styles
 Frames with rounded tops
and squared bottoms
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Base-up Triangle Face: Tips
 Mid-level to low temple
placement will add balance
 Very light colors, delicate
metal, and rimless styles are
effective
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Oblong Face: Description
1. The oblong face is one that
is longer than it is wide
2. Select a frame that is
deeper than it is wide to
create the illusion that the
face is shorter
3. Frames should “break up”
the length of the face to
make the face appear
shorter and wider
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Oblong Face: Tips
 Frames should have top to
bottom depth
 Shorten the face by using
round, deep, or low-triangle
shapes
 Use frames with strong
horizontal lines emphasized
by skiving
Faces, Frames, and Guidelines
Oblong Face: Tips
 Decorative or contrasting
temples can add width to the
face
 Mid-level to low temple
position can reduce the
length of the face
Guidelines
Face
To Shorten a Face:
 Use mid- or low-temples;
deeper, narrower frames; or
a low bridge
To Lengthen a Face:
 Use mid- or high-temples; a
high bridge; shallow, wide
frames; or frames with little
or no color on the lower rim
Guidelines
Nose
To Shorten the Nose:
 Choose a frame with a
low or solid, colored
bridge
 Avoid a keyhole bridge,
a high bridge, or a
clear bridge
Guidelines
Nose
To Lengthen the Nose:
 Choose a keyhole
bridge, a high bridge,
or a clear bridge
 Avoid a frame with a
low or solid, colored
bridge
Guidelines
Nose
To Narrow and Lengthen a
Wide Nose:
 Use a clear or metal bridge
that sits close to the nose
 Use nosepads
Guidelines
Eyes
To Widen Close-set Eyes:
 Select frames with an
unobtrusive bridge
 Use a clear bridge with
darker colors placed at the
outer edges of the frame
 Narrow width frames help to
center the eyes
Guidelines
Eyes
To Narrow Wide-set Eyes:
 Use a dark colored bridge
 Use wide frames to center
the eyes in the lenses
Guidelines
Scale
A Small Face:
 Use thin metals and subtle
colors; lightweight frames;
or rimless frames
 Don’t overwhelm delicate
features with heavy or
exaggerated frames
Guidelines
Scale
A Large Face:
 A large face can be
balanced by using a slightly
oversized frame
 Heavy features can be
balanced by using heavier
frames
Eyewear Frame Selection

Review
Unit 1: Face Shape Analysis
Review
The frame shape should _____ with the face shape.

Contrast
Review
A perfectly balanced face can be divided into five parts
vertically and three parts horizontally. (True/False)

True
Review
All face shapes are a combination of curvilinear and
angular lines. (True/False)

True
Review
High or mid-height temples on a round face help make
the face appear _____.

Longer
Review
Which of the following will help lengthen a short nose?
a. low bridge
b. colored bridge
c. keyhole bridge

c. keyhole bridge
Review
A large face can be balanced by a slightly oversized
frame (True/False)

True
Review
Frame size should be in ____ with face size.

Scale (proportion, balance, harmony)

Review
Identify the face shape below:

Oval
Review
Identify the face shape below:

Diamond
Review
Identify the face shape below:

Round
Review
Identify the face shape below:

Square
Review
Identify the face shape below:

Base Down Triangle

Review
Identify the face shape below:

Base Up Triangle
Review
Identify the face shape below:

Oval
Review
Identify the face shape below:

Oblong
Eyewear Frame Selection

End
Unit 1: Face Shape Analysis