Fash ion Th rou g h th e

By: Tori Schlemeier

A g es

N orthern Renaissance 1500The Northern Renaissance was a period of

1600

politics and the rebirth of religion and art. England

changed its King many times throughout the 1500s.
At the start, Henry VIII was King, and then he died
recently after that, leaving everything to his only
son Edward. Edward was sickly and died at a young
age, giving the throne to Henrys oldest daughter
Mary. Following Mary, Elizabeth becomes Queen.
Meanwhile, Martin Luther was rising against the
Roman Catholic Church and establishing his own
religion. Charles V then added Germany and N. Italy
to his rule. In 1535, the Ottoman Empire begins.
Also that year, Europeans made first contact with
the Japanese.

N orthern Renaissance Cont.

Mens styles quickly became those of the
Renaissance and not medieval at the beginning of this
century. They laced together the doublet and hose.
Starting in 1515, German influences are apparent in
fashions around Europe and mainly in England.
However, after 1850, the Spanish influenced most
styles.
As womens fashion developed from the middle
ages through the renaissance, Spanish influence
continues and skirts become fuller with the use of a
bum roll tied around the waist under a dress called the
farthingale. Ruffs, high standing collars, and the conch,
a sheer cape with a standing collar, become popular.

The Ruff
16th Century

21st Century

The lace ruff worn by men and women in the Renaissance is worn
today in a variety of textures and fabrics.

The Standup Collar

16th Century

21st Century

The high standing collar from the 1500s, as redesigned by Alexander

McQueen above, is a more modern alternative to the ruff or conch.

Eighteenth Century 1700-1800

During the 1700s, the French Court of Louis XV and Louis XVI was the
center of fashion. The British dandies who followed that fashion and the Italian
influences were called macaronis. As settlement of the British colonies continued
in the New World, some colonists grew restless. Toward the end of the century,
they rose up against British rule in the American Revolution, gained their
independece, and established the United States of America.
The settlement of the New World helped open the door to trading with the
Far East. Asian textile such as luxurious silks and printed cottons were brought
back to Europe to create more fashion. To speed up the process and creation of
more fabric, Richard Arkwrights spinning machine improved production and
quality greatly. However, mens fashion in the 18th century did not change
significally. Men were wearing white shirts with ruffles, and a vest that came
down to the outercoat, which was wider. Breeches reached the knee and coat
cuffs were wide. A popular style of dress was the ditto suit, which was made out
of the same fabric for the coat, vest, and breeches. By the last half of this
century, vests became shorter, breeches were tighter, and jackets were
narrowed and curved back. At home, men wore banyans, which were simple
gowns worn to relax. Men could receive gifts or company in this outfit. Along
with the banyan, men wore a nightcap, which usually was embroidered.

Eighteenth Cenutry Cont.

For women, style remained the same for a couple decades in
the beginning, but then skirt width drastically increased. The
invention of paniers helped skirts grow wider side to side instead of
round, causing door frames to be made wider also. At first, the wide
gown were unfitted, but then became fitted at the top and loose in
the hip length. Two styles became important with these dresses, robe
l Anglaise and robe la Francaise. Robes l Anglaise were fitted
in the back and robes la Francaise were fitted in the front with full
unfitted pleats in the back. An exception to wide robe la Francaise
was replaced by the polonaise, which was a dress with skirts held out
by a pad and looped up into puffs at the bottom. Then, fullness in the
skirt shifted to the back, and the front becam fuller as women tucked
scarves into their neckline. Hair dressing grew higher, creating the
need to cover hair when going outside. To protect the hair, the
calash, or folding hoolike hat was invented. Working women, slaves,
and the poor started wearing shortgowns which were straight,
unfitted, washable tops , over petticoats.

The Corset
18th Century

21st Century

The corset originally used to make the waist so thin it was difficult to
breathe, is now worn for its appeal. There are many different styles of
corsets worn today.

The D itto Suit

18th Century

21st Century

The idea of the ditto suit is still common today in suits and tuxedos.

D irectoire Period 1790-1820

The turn of the 18th to the 19th century was marked byFrech Revolution.
Supporters of the revolution adopted their own style of dress to depict their
political views. Such styles were the red cap of liberty, trousers, and the
revolutionary cockade. Men known as sans culotte started wearing trousers
instead of the knee breeches because those were a sign of the old regime.
The Americans aided the French revolutionaries because they helped support
the Americans supporting the American Revolution. The conclusion of the
French Revolution was the implication of the Directoire government. Instead
of one ruler, France would be ruled by 3 people.
Fashion extremists during this time period existed in both men and
women. The men were known as the incroyables, or the incredible ones. The
women were known as Merveilleuses, or the marvelous ones. Another fashion
supporting the revolution was the Haircut a la Victime, which was a shirt
simple hairstyle representing the women going to the guillotine. They also
wore red velvet ribbons around their necks to signify the cut from the
guillotine.
A new undergarment for women was the pantalette, which was long
drawers that had pleats or ruffles at the hem of the dress. The hem could be
let out to make the drawers longer if desired. Over the pantalette women
wore a chemise, a corset, and a petticoat.

D irectoire Period Cont.

Emperor Napolean started the empire line, which was plain
and straight silhouette. However, there were many
different styles of sleeves and necklines that could be
worn. Also, the spencer jacket was now worn by women.
Important accessories of this time was the reticule, the
cockade fan, and the muff, which was worn to keep the
hands warm.
Contrasting the 18th century, mens fashion beccame more
subdued and more plain. However, the undergarments
mostly stayed the same. All men wore trousers or
pantaloons, a shirt with a wrapped cravat or stock, a vest
or waistcoat, and a coat generally cut short like the
spencer or gradually lengthening in the back by a curve or
coattails. Finally, a popular accessory of men at this time
was the spat or gaiter, which had a strap to go under the
arch of your foot.

Spencer
18-19th Century

21st Century

The Spencer Jacket cut just below the bustline is still worn today , mainly
as a cardigan or shawl, with dresses and camisoles to complete the outfit
or keep the upper body warm.

Em pire Line
18-19th Century

21st Century

This empire wasitline with a loose fitted, straight silhouette is

portrayed in modern dresses such as the one worn by Natalie Portman.

Rom antic Period 1820-1850

The Romantic Period was a movement in the arts and literature and it
stressedthe expression of emotions and imagination instead of rationality.
People started looking to the past, feeling nostalgic after the restoration of the
French monarchy. While that was happening, a new Queen, Victoria, came to
the British throne in 1837. At the same time, fashion was spreading to all
social classes throughout the world. Americans read fashion magazines to
keep up with the latest Parisian trends. This was made possible when Louis
Daguerre starting using photography to document the way people dressed.
At the start of this era, womens fashion developed a new line, steering
away from the empire silhouette, as made famous by Emperor Napoleon
Bonaparte of France. The undergarments such as the drawers, chemise,
corset, and corset cover or camisole remained mostly the same. The addition
of full starched petticoats and bustle pads increased skirt fullness, lifting them
off the ground. Feet and ankles were now seen below the dress. However, this
new line lasted a short time, as the silhouette continued to evolve. Skirts
lengthened again and fullness decreased, while sleeve fullness moved down
the arm. Women had several different haristyles throughout this period such
as a series of hats and updos . Some notable accessories of women were the
chatelaines, which held scissors, thimbles, and anything else they would need
throughout the day, reticules, and gloves, both with and without fingers.

Rom antic Period Cont.

Mens style slightly represented the silhouetter of womens
clothing during the Romantic Period . They had narrow waists,
coats with flared skirts or tails, and fuller sleeves. Their dress
consisted of underdrawers, shirts, waistcoats, trousers, and coats.
Frock coats with extended skirts below the waist and tailcoats cut
short in the front with tails in the back were popular daytime coats.
Overcoats were popular outerwear and cloaks were worn for formal
occaions. Also popular was the spencer jacket made popular by
Lord Spencer. The spencer was a short jacket cut at the same
length all the way around. Men were commonly seen wearing top
hats and cravats around their shirts.
Young boys and girls were dressed in skirts. The boys looked
more like their mothers until they reached age 4 or 5. Then, the
boys could start wearing long pants or breeches. The children
looked like small adults.

Shorter G ow n Length
19th Century

21st Century

The Romantic Period style of dresses cut above the ankle has modified
into the modern style of dresses known as tea-length. These dresses
are cut near the calf muscle, revealing a little more leg.

Braided U pdo H airstyle

19th Century

21st Century

The fishtail braids in this haristyle are now seen in updos or by itself for
all occasions.

Crinoline Period 1850-1869

Victoria was still the Queen of England when the Crinoline Period began in 1850. The
name of this time came from the increase in fullness of womens skirts by the cage
crinoline or hoopskirt. At the start of this time, Isaac Singer introduced an invention that
would forever change the fashion industry. He invented the first practial sewing
machine, which he allowed woment to test out before buying and established a payment
plan to help the lower classes. The American Civil War brought this invention to the
United States, doubling its sales as shoe production increased and the military needed
1.5 million uniforms per year. This also help spread mechanization and the development
of factories. Then, Charles Worth established the House of Worth in Paris, introducing
haute couture to the world. He worked closely with Empress Eugenie, designing fashions
specifically for her. After the first multi sized paper pattern was created by Ebeneezer
Butterick in 1863, fashion was accessible to everyone around the world. All social
classes could now create their own Paris designs.
Womens styles were wide like those of the Romantic Period for the beginning
of the Crinoline Period. Throughtout the 18 th century, paniers were worn under dresses
to make them wider. However, with the invention of the cage crinoline in 1857, dresses
became lighter and easier to move around in. Skirts became so wide that they were a
popular theme in cartoons. Under their hoopskirt, women wore cotton drawers, a
chemise, a corset, and a corset cover. A petticoat was worn over the hoop. Parasols were
carried around outside to protect the skin from the sun. It was unattractive for women to
have tanned skin because women who worked in the field had tan skin.

Crinoline Period Cont.

Men wore darwers, an undershirt worn with a tie or cravat,
trousers held up by suspenders, and a vest. However, they had many
jacket types to choose from. For formal occasions they wore a dress or
tailcoat. They wore sack jackets for less formal occasions, and they
wore frock coats during the day. Besides the necessary suspenders,
men carried pocket watches which hooked to their pants by a fob. This
accessory showed wealth.
As the American Civil War continued, US soldiers adopted the
Zouave jacket from the Algerian soldiers. Another popular military
style was the Garibaldi jacket which was inspired by the red shirts of
Giuseppe Garibaldis soldiers. After 2 years of fighting many bloody
battles, US President Abraham Lincoln passed the Emancipation
Proclamation Act, freeing the slaves. Shortly after this act was passed,
Lincoln was assassinated. While Americans were busy fighting each
other, Europeans worked on the building of the transcontinental
railroad to give the people a better conection with each other.
Although, this period only lasted for 19 years, it was one of the most
influential time periods on fashion for all social classes.

Cage Crinoline
19th Century

21st Century

The cage crinoline used to make dresses fuller and lighter are still
added to some dresses today. They are most commonly seen in
wedding dresses and formalwear.

Crinoline Period
19th Century

21st Century

Cravats and ties are still worn around the collar of mens shirts in
formalwear such as suits or tuxedos. The modern mens style is to wear
the collar down instead of standing up .

W orks Cited

Cover Photo:
Copeland, Christin (Makeup Artist). Retrieved: November 19, 2013, From:
fotolook.com.

Northern Renaissance:
Fairchild Books. (2010). The northern renaissance [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved:
November 19, 2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid2286750-dt-content-rid-10298393_1/xid-10298393_1

Eighteenth Century:
Fairchild Books. (2010). The eighteenth century[PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved:
November 19, 2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid2313630-dt-content-rid-10389073_1/xid-10389073_1

Directoire:
Fairchild Books. (2010). The directoire and empire period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved:
November 19, 2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid2159364-dt-content-rid-9574639_1/xid-9574639_1

Romantic:
Fairchild Books. (2010). The romantic period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November
19, 2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2329855-dtcontent-rid-10575551_1/xid-10575551_1

Crinoline:
Fairchild Books. (2010). The crinoline period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November
19, 2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2159364-dtcontent-rid-9574639_1/xid-9574639_1

W orks Cited-Im ages

Northern Renaissance Style 1:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The northern renaissance [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2286750-dt-content-rid10298393_1/xid-10298393_1

(2011). Modern interpretation of the ruff [Blog], Retrieved: November 19, 2013, From:
zhozhofabart.blogspot.com

Northern Renaissance Style 2:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The northern renaissance [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2286750-dt-content-rid10298393_1/xid-10298393_1

Retrospective: Givenchy Haute Couture S/S 1997 by Alexander McQueen [Blog]. (2011).
Retrieved: November 19, 2013, From: dresscodehighfashion.blogspot.com.

18th Century Style 1:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The eighteenth century[PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2313630-dt-content-rid10389073_1/xid-10389073_1

Mutama, Imogen. Pinks Sober: Vintage Styles with a Modern Twist. Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: esque21.com.

Eighteenth Century Style 2:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The eighteenth century [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2313630-dt-content-rid10389073_1/xid-10389073_1

A smart in-vest-ment [Blog]. (2013). Retrieved: November 19, 2013, From: tsbmen.com

Directoire Style 1:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The directoire and empire period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved:
November 19, 2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2159364-dtcontent-rid-9574639_1/xid-9574639_1

Karsten, Susan. (2012). Passion for Regency Fashion, Retrieved: November 19, 2013, From:
christianregency.com.

W orks Cited-Im ages

Romantic Period Style 1:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The romantic period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2329855-dt-content-rid10575551_1/xid-10575551_1

Fusaro, Kim [Weddings Writer]. (2012). Top 6 Wedding Dresses of the Week: Tea-Length
Edition! (Including 4 COLORFUL Wedding Dresses!) [Online Magazine Article].
Retrieved: November 19, 2013, From: www. Glamour. Com

Romantic Period Style 2:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The romantic period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2329855-dt-content-rid10575551_1/xid-10575551_1

Behind the chair [Blog]. (2012). Retrieved: November 19, 2013, From:
blog.hairandmakeupbysteph.com.

Crinoline Style 1:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The crinoline period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2159364-dt-content-rid9574639_1/xid-9574639_1

Pilotto, Peter (Designer). (2013). The Row [Fashion Line], Retrieved: November 19, 2013,
from: hellotailor.blogspot.com.

Crinoline Style 2:

Fairchild Books. (2010). The crinoline period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2159364-dt-content-rid9574639_1/xid-9574639_1

Bridal and tuxedo galleria of San Diego. (2012). Retrieved: November 19, 2013, From:
bridalandtuxedogalleria.com.

Fairchild Books. (2010). The romantic period [PowerPoint Slides] Retrieved: November 19,
2013, From: https://blackboard.missouristate.edu/bbcswebdav/pid-2329855-dt-content-rid10575551_1/xid-10575551_