Steps of Wet Processing

Technology

Prepared By :

Prepared By : Mazadul Hasan sheshir

ID: 2010000400008
13th Batch (session 2009-2013)
Department : Wet Processing Technology
Email: mazadulhasan@yahoo.com
Blog : www. Textilelab.blogspot.com
(visit)

Southeast University
Department Of Textile Engineering
I/A 251,252 Tejgaon ,Dhaka Bangladesh

Total Textile Process at a Glance

Wetprocessing

Singeing

Desizing
.

Scouring Process
There are two types of textile scouring
processes
1. Conventional scouring process:

Kier boiling (discontinuous) scouring.

Scouring in J or L box (continuous).

Exhaust method
2. Special scouring process:

Solvent scouring process.

Vapor lock scouring proces

General recipe for scouring for Kier

boiler process:
Alkali (NaOH) - 2 to 5 gm per Litre.
Soda ash - x gm per Litre to adjust PH (PH
required for scouring is 10.5).
Wetting agent - 1 gm per Litre.
Sequestering agent - 1 gm per Litre.
Detergent - 1 to 2 gm per Litre.
Temperature - 100 to 1250c.
Time - 6 hours (close vessel) and 8 hours
(open vessel)
M : L - 1 : 10

Process:
Kier boiler is a long mild steel or cast iron
cylindrical vessel provided with two perforated
tube sheets (disc with a number of holes). One
is placed at the bottom and another is top.
These discs are connected by a number of tunes
which carry the liquor from the bottom
compartment to the upper one. In the middle
compartment steam is passed. Thus the tubes
carrying the liquor are surrounded by steam
which
heats
them.
The hot liquor from the multitublar heater is
sprayed over the cloth, packed in the kier,
through a hollow perforated ring. The liquid
passes slowly over the packed cloth, collects
below the false bottom, from where it is
pumped into the auxiliary heater by a

Figure scouring process

Bleaching

Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural coloration

and remaining trace impurities from the cotton; the degree of
bleaching necessary is determined by the required whiteness
and absorbency. Cotton being a vegetable fiber will be bleached
using an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hypochlorite or
dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed a deep
shade, then lower levels of bleaching are acceptable. However,
for white bed sheets and medical applications, the highest
levels of whiteness and absorbency are essential.
Reductive bleaching is also carried out, using sodium
hydrosulphite. Fibers like polyamide, polyacrylics and
polyacetates can be bleached using reductive bleaching
technology.
After scouring and bleaching, optical brightening agents (OBA),
are applied to make the textile material appear more white.
These OBAs are available in different tints such as blue, violet
and red.

Mercerizing process
Mercerizing is the process to improve the luster, hand and other
properties of cotton by using strong caustic alkaline solution .
In this process, it can be divided into three uses that are
dyeing printing, finishing and it also has been used in final
appearance in general.

Figure of Mercerizing
process

Note: Fabric Mercerization

is Cheaper than double
Mercerization which
provides a softer hand

DYEING PROCESS

Dyeing is the process of give color to fibers, yarn, or fabrics

by using natural or synthetic dye [1] . In this process it
have involving three principle process, that are
retardation, migration and diffusion which all this are
chemical process. There are many type of dyeing that
using in textile wet processing such as cross dyeing,
union dyeing and gel dyeing. All of then has there own
process to make the dyeing process smoothly and
produce a good quality of dyeing.

Figure 6 : Type of a few color that use in dyeing process

Figure of dyeing process

TEXTILE PRINTING
Textile printing is referred as localized dyeing. It is the
application of color in the form of a paste or ink to the
surface of a fabric, in a predetermined pattern. Printing
designs onto already dyed fabric is also possible. In
properly printed fabrics the color is bonded with the
fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing
is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the
whole fabric is uniformly covered with one color, in
printing one or more colors are applied to it in certain
parts only, and in sharply defined patterns. In printing,
wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or
silk screens can be used to place colors on the fabric.
Colorants used in printing contain dyes thickened to
prevent the color from spreading by capillary attraction
beyond the limits of the pattern or design.

Figure of printing machine

Finishing

Textile finishing is the term used for a series

of processes to which all bleached, dyed,
printed and certain grey fabrics are
subjected before they put on the market. The
object of textile finishing is to render textile
goods fit for their purpose or end-use and/or
improve serviceability of the fabric.
Finishing on fabric is carried out for both
aesthetic and functional purposes to improve
the quality and look of a fabric. Fabric may
receive considerable added value by
applying one or more finishing processes.

Finishing processes include :

Raising
Calendering
Crease resistance
Filling
Softening
Stiffening
Water repellency
Moth proofing
Mildew-proofing
Flame retardant
Anti-static
soil resistance

Calendering is an operation carried out on a fabric to

improve its aesthetics. The fabric passes through a
series of calender rollers by wrapping; the face in
contact with a roller alternates from one roller to the
next. An ordinary calender consists of a series of hard
and soft (resilient) bowls (rollers) placed in a definite
order. The soft roller may be compressed with either
cotton or wool-paper, linen paper or flax paper. The
hard metal bowl is either of chilled iron or cast iron or
steel. The calender may consist of 3, 5, 6, 7 and 10
rollers. The sequence of the rollers is that no two hard
rollers are in contact with each other. Pressure may be
applied by compound levers and weights, or hydraulic
pressure may be used as an alternative. The pressure
and heat applied in calendering depend on the type of
the finish required.
The purposes of calendering are to upgrade the fabric
hand and to impart a smooth, silky touch to the fabric,
to compress the fabric and reduce its thickness, to
improve the opacity of the fabric, to reduce the air
permeability of the fabric by changing its porosity, to
impart different degree of luster of the fabric, and to

Raising
An important and oldest textile finishing is
brushing or raising. Using this process a wide
variety of fabrics including blankets, flannelettes
and industrial fabrics can be produced. The
process of raising consists of lifting from the
body of the fabric a layer of fibers which stands
out from the surface which is termed as "pile".
The formation of pile on a fabric results in a
"lofty" handle and may also subdue the weave or
pattern and color of the cloth.
There are to types of raising machine; Teasel
machine and Card-wire machine. The speed of
the card-wire raising machine varies from 12-15
yards per minute, which is 20-30% higher than
that of teasel-raising. That is why the card-wire
raising machine is widely used.

CONCLUSION
Wet processing of textiles constitutes innumerable steps
leading to finished product, each having a number of complex
variables and every lot is like a new lot and much depends on
the well-trained manpower rather than modern machines and
technology. However, developments are taking place at a rapid
pace to satisfy the user with quality product and competitive
price. Though underlying principle for developments is
satisfying user needs. This in turn will impart cost
competitiveness. Then, more functional finishes are also being
developed. However trend is to use more mechanical finishes
than chemical finishes. The key to success in textile wet
processing technology will be the indication of highly trained
manpower at lucrative wages in structured manner.

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