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BGMEA University of Fashion& Technology (BUFT)

Faculty of Textile Engineering

REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
AT
“RIPON KNITWEAR LIMITED”
(10th Sept to 28th Oct-2020)
Jarun, konabari, Gazipur, Bangladesh.

Prepared By:
ABDULLAH AL MAMUN
Batch: 161, TE-01
ID:161-023-0-155
Program: B.Sc. in Textile Engineering

Supervising Faculty:
MS. TASLIMA AHMED TAMANNA
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

This Internship Report Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the requirements for


the Degree of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering in the Faculty of Textile Engineering of
BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology (BUFT).
i
Department of Textile Engineering

REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
At

“RIPON KNITWEAR LIMITED”


Jarun, konabari, Gazipur, Bangladesh.

Prepared By:
ABDULLAH AL MAMUN
Batch: 161, TE-01
ID:161-023-0-155
Program: B.Sc. in Textile Engineering

Project Supervisor:
MS. TASLIMA AHMED TAMANNA
Lecturer
Department of Textile Engineering

Exam Committee:
Supervisor: Ms. TASLIMA AHMED TAMANNA Signature:

Examiner 1 : Prof. Dr. ABU BAKR SIDDIQUE Signature:

Examiner 2: Ms. SABRINA SHAHRIN SWARNA Signature:

Date:

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SUMMARY OF THE INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

The internationally recognized Buyers or clients are looking for those countries for producing
their apparel products where different types of mills have established as a one stop source for
the global apparel market, satisfy and meet customer’s expectation by developing and
providing products and services on time, which offer value in terms of Quality, Price, Safety
& Environmental impact. And also assure complete compliance with the international quality
standards and also to provide the employees internationally acceptable working
condition/standards. In Bangladesh, there are different types of Textile Industry those are
producing high quality textile and apparel product, RIPON KNITWEAR LIMITED is one of
them.

RIPON KNITWEAR LIMITED is a Composite Textile, having all state of the art facilities
with the monthly turnover USD 2.5 Million. They have different types of Knitting, Dyeing,
cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China,
etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 1500000 pcs Basic T-Shirts, 1100000
pcs T-Shirt/Polo Shirt/Jacket,1000000 pcs Trousers are produced per month. The production
is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in RIPON
KNITWEAR LIMITED are textiles graduates. All the chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and
finishing are well branded.

They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from international
market like USA, U.K, France, Poland, Spain, Israil and Germany. They follow all the
system for their machines maintenance so production cannot hamper.
In this report, we have tried to give some information about RIPON KNITWEAR LIMITED
and we have observed that RIPON KNITWEAR LIMITED produce high quality product and
fulfill the special requirements from the different types of buyers by following different
internationally recommended standard method.

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DECLARATION OF THE INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

Here with I that I have done industrial internship in RIPON KNITWEAR LTD, which is
supervised by, MS. TASLIMA AHMED TAMANNA, Lecturer, Department of Textile
Engineering, from 10th Sept’20 to 28th Oct’20.

Name: ABDULLAH AL MAMUN


ID: 161-023-0-155

Signature:

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to extend thanks to Honorable Founder Chairman, Board of Trustees Mr.
Muzaffar U. Siddique, BUFT, for not only for his tremendous academic support, but also
forgiving me so many wonderful opportunities and logistic supports to do this project.

Special thank goes to my enthusiastic Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Vice Chancellor
(Acting), (BUFT) who so generously inspired & contributed to do this type of project work.

Special thanks go to my enthusiastic supervisor , MS. TASLIMA AHMED TAMANNA


lecturer has been an amazing experience and I thank her wholeheartedly, not only for her
tremendous academic support, but also for giving me so many wonderful opportunities.

Finally, thanks go to some technical persons and Lab-Men for almost unbelievable support.

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LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL

November’20
MS. TASLIMA AHMED TAMANNA
Lecturer,
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Nishatnagar, Turag, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh.

Subject: Internship report on (RIPON KNITWEAR LIMITED)

Dear Mam,
With great pleasure, here I submit my internship report that fulfills partial requirements for
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering. It is very significant for a student and information to undergo a
practical field of study.

I completed my internship report on (Ripon Knitwear Limited). In this report I have tried to
accommodate your valuable comments and suggestions. I tried my level best to gather
practical and theoretical knowledge. I went to the factory 8 weeks. Every day I tried to visit a
specific section and then I shared my knowledge with my factories supervisor after complete
that section. In this concern if you need any further clarification, please email/call.

Now, I would like to share my knowledge with you and want to learn more from you. It will
be great pleasure for me if you share your vast knowledge with me.

Regards,
Abdullah Al Mamun
Batch: 161, TE-01
ID:161-023-0-155
Department of Textile Engineering.

v
Table of Contents
SUMMARY OF THE INDUSTRIAL TRAINING......................................................................................ii
DECLARATION OF THE INDUSTRIAL TRAINING................................................................................iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS...................................................................................................................iv
LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL................................................................................................................v
CHAPTER: 01 PROJECT DESCRIPTION...........................................................................................1
1.1 Introduction:......................................................................................................................1
CHAPTER: 02 FACTORY PROFILE..................................................................................................2
2.1 Company Name:................................................................................................................2
2.2 Factory Profile:...............................................................................................................2-3
2.3 Location:............................................................................................................................4
2.4 Bank: ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………5
2.5 Factory Contacts Detail:.....................................................................................................5
2.6 Sister of Factory.................................................................................................................5
2.7 Company Vision:................................................................................................................6
2.8 Company Mission:.............................................................................................................6
2.9 Company Focus:.................................................................................................................6
2.10 Company Objectives:.......................................................................................................7
2.11 Company Code of Conduct:.............................................................................................7
2.12 Main Product Manufacturing:..........................................................................................8
2.13 Product Sample:...............................................................................................................9
2.14 Buyers:...........................................................................................................................10
2.15 Certifications & Achievements:......................................................................................11
2.16 Factory View:.................................................................................................................12
CHAPTER: 03 FACTORY UTILIZATION.........................................................................................13
3.1 Utilization:........................................................................................................................13
3.2 Factory Description:.........................................................................................................14
CHAPTER: 04 MANPOWER MANAGEMENT...............................................................................15
4.1 Manpower Organogram:.................................................................................................15
4.2 Supporting Department:..................................................................................................16
4.3 Management Information System (MIS):.........................................................................16
4.3.2 Order Flow Sequence:...................................................................................................17
4.4 Duties & Responsibility of Different Post:...................................................................18-19
4.5 Employment Practices:....................................................................................................20

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4.6 Health & Safety Practice:.................................................................................................21
4.7 Law Practice:....................................................................................................................21
CHAPTER: 05 KNITTING SECTION...............................................................................................22
5.1 Knitting section:...............................................................................................................22
5.2 Machines Use for Knitting:...............................................................................................22
5.3 Process Requirements:....................................................................................................23
5.4 Flow Chart:.......................................................................................................................24
5.4.2 Flow Chart of Knitting Procedure:.................................................................................25
5.5 Knitting Machine Layout:.................................................................................................26
5.6 Different machines and their specifications:..............................................................27-31
5.7 Classification of Knitting:..................................................................................................32
5.8 Used Yarn:........................................................................................................................32
5.9 Yarn Count Uses for Knitting:...........................................................................................32
5.10 Different fabric and GSM and Yarn count:................................................................33-34
5.11 Fabric Fault:...................................................................................................................35
5.12 Common Fabric faults & Causes and Remedies:.......................................................36-39
5.12.9 Lycra out:....................................................................................................................40
5.13 Calculation:....................................................................................................................40
5.14 Quality Management:....................................................................................................41
5.15 Fabric inspection machine:............................................................................................42
5.16 Quality control process:............................................................................................42-44
CHAPTER: 06 BATCHING SECTION.............................................................................................45
6.1 Batching:..........................................................................................................................45
6.2 Batch Card:......................................................................................................................45
6.3 Batch Process Flow Chart:................................................................................................46
6.4 Batch preparation:...........................................................................................................46
6.5 Calculation for Reel speed:..............................................................................................46
6.6 Batch Card:......................................................................................................................47
6.7 Aims / Purpose of Batch Section:.....................................................................................48
CHAPTER: 07 DYEING SECTION..................................................................................................49
7.1 Introduction:....................................................................................................................49
7.2 Elements of A Dyeing Machine:.......................................................................................49
7.3 Different types of Dyeing machines and their capacity:.............................................50-51
7.4 Flow chart:..................................................................................................................52-55

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7.5 Raw Material for dyeing:.................................................................................................56
7.6 Grey Fabrics:....................................................................................................................56
7.7 Recipe of Different stage in Dyeing:...........................................................................56-57
7.8 Dyed fabric finishing:.......................................................................................................58
7.9 Finishing Machines:.........................................................................................................59
7.10 Common Dyeing Faults with Their Remedies:..........................................................60-62
CHAPTER: 08 SAMPLE SECTION.................................................................................................63
8.1 Sample Section:...............................................................................................................63
8.2 Flow Chart:.......................................................................................................................63
8.3 Types of sample:..............................................................................................................64
8.4 Types of Machine are used in Sample department:........................................................65
8.5 Sample production Capacity:...........................................................................................65
CHAPTER: 09 PATTERN SECTION...............................................................................................66
9.1 Pattern section:................................................................................................................66
9.2 Pattern types:..................................................................................................................66
9.3 Pattern Making Flow Chart:.............................................................................................67
9.4 Pattern Making Method:..................................................................................................67
CHAPTER: 10 CUTTING SECTION................................................................................................68
10.1 Cutting Section:..............................................................................................................68
10.2 Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Department:........................................................68
10.3 Equipment of Cutting Section:..................................................................................69-70
10.4 Fabric Lay height standard:............................................................................................71
10.5 Description of Cutting Machine:....................................................................................72
10.6 Cutting Plan Preparation:...............................................................................................73
10.7 Cutting Inspection:.........................................................................................................73
10.8 Cutting faults:.................................................................................................................74
CHAPTER: 11 SEWING SECTION.................................................................................................75
11.1 Sewing Section:..............................................................................................................75
11.2 Flow Chart of Sewing Department:................................................................................75
11.3 Output:..........................................................................................................................76
11.4 The Different Machines:...........................................................................................77-80
11.5 Sewing Machine List:.....................................................................................................81
11.6 Sewing Faults:................................................................................................................82
CHAPTER: 12 STORE DEPARTMENT...........................................................................................83

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12.1 Store Department:.........................................................................................................83
12.2 Working Flow Chart of Store Department in Garment Industry:...................................83
12.3 Item Stored in the Store Department:...........................................................................84
CHAPTER: 13 FINISHING SECTION..............................................................................................85
13.1 Finishing Section:...........................................................................................................85
13.2 Process Flow Chart of Garments Finishing:...............................................................85-86
13.3 Garment Inspection:......................................................................................................87
13.4 AQL:………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………88-90
CHAPTER: 14 MERCHANDISING SECTION..................................................................................91
14.1 Merchandising:..............................................................................................................91
14.2 Merchandiser:………………………………………………………………………………………………………91-92
14.3 Organogram of Merchandising Department:.................................................................93
14.4 Job Responsibilities of Merchandising in Ripon Knitwear Ltd……………………………….93-95
14.5 Garment Costing:………………………………………………………………………………………………..96-97
14.6 Consumption Preparation:…………………………………………………………………………………-98-100
14.7 Fabric Booking:............................................................................................................101
14.8 Trim Booking:...............................................................................................................101
CHAPTER: 15 COMPLIANCE.....................................................................................................102
15.1 Compliance:.................................................................................................................102
15.2 Compliance of Ripon Knitwear Ltd........................................................................103-105
15.3 Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP):............................................................................106-109
CHAPTER: 16 IMPACT ON INTERNSHIP....................................................................................110
16.1 Definition:....................................................................................................................110
16.2 Benefits of an Internship:.............................................................................................110
16.3 Leadership and Skill Development:..............................................................................110
16.4 Networking and Establishing Mentors and References:..............................................111
16.5 Resume Enhancements:..............................................................................................111
CHAPTER: 17 CONCLUSION......................................................................................................112

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CHAPTER: 01
PROJECT DESCRIPTION

1.1 Introduction:

It is always very easy to make a man understand about a firebox by showing and lighting
practically rather than describing theoretically who has not ever seen a firebox. So, for any
technical education especially in textile engineering, the practical experience is the most
important as well as the theoretical knowledge.

Textile engineering education at bachelor level is based on industrial ground. Theoretical


background is not sufficient so, industrial training is the most important part of study to make
a technologist technically sound. Industrial Attachment provides that opportunity to gather
practical knowledge for being a true Textile Engineer.

Through our study life it’s a great chance for us to combine the theoretical knowledge with
the practical knowledge in the “Industrial Attachment period”. In addition, the knowledge we
gathered from the industrial training reflects in the report of industrial attachment note book.

So industrial training is the process where the trainee can blend his theoretical knowledge
with practical knowledge increasing his/ her ability of work, skill, performance and attitude
and so on. It also provides sufficient knowledge about production management, productivity
evaluation, work study & efficiency, industrial management, production planning and
control, production cost analysis, inventory management, utility, maintenance and so on.
Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and
also improve courage and inspiration to take self-responsibility.

Ripon Knitwear Limited is an export oriented ready-made garments Manufacturer Company


which offers woven, knit, sweater in one compound. Customer satisfaction by improving the
facilities and qualities of the product.

1
CHAPTER: 02
FACTORY PROFILE

2.1 Company Name:


RIPON KNITWEAR LIMITED

Figure 2.1: Factory View

2.2 Factory Profile:


Working on new concepts in styling and content of the knitwear is a continuous activity in
Ripon Knitwear Limited with an objective to up the quality and the value of merchandise. In
May,2008, the year in which International business was started; Ripon Knitwear Ltd.
concentrated all its strengths and resources in developing a wide range of knitwear for the
international market.
This company has a healthy relationship with its workforce ensuring that they are always
reliable and efficient. The employee body consists of 9000 skilled and semiskiIIed
employees.
(source: http://ripongroupbd.com/CompanyInfo.php)

2
Table 1.1: Company Profile of Ripon Knitwear Limited

Name of the Factory Ripon Knitwear Limited


Status Private Limited Company
Year of Establishment May-2008
Location Jarun, konabari, Gazipur, Bangladesh

Type of Factory High quality fabric Manufacturer


Nature of company 100% Export oriented Industry
Production Capacity per month 1500000 pcs Basic t-Shirts, 1100000 pcs T-
Shirts, Polo, Jackets, 1000000 pcs Trousers.

Product T-shirt, polo shirt, tank-top, sweat shirt,


shorts, long pant, hoodies, cut and sewn t-
shirt, Night Dress, Pajama, New Born Baby
to Ladies/Men’s and all
kinds of knitted fancy garments.
Total Area of the Factory Approximately 113,520 Square feet
including a big five storied building &
Assembly Point
Monthly Trunover USD 2.5 million
Oeko-Tex Certified GOTS Certified (Global
Organic Textile Standards) OE100 or OE
Certification Blended (Organic Exchange) ISO-9001:2008
and ISO-14001:2008 Certification Systems.
BSR Audit (Business for Social
Responsibility)
Board of Directors MD. Faruk Hossain, Managing Derector

Corporate Office House # 29 (2nd Floor), Road# 17, Block #


E, Banani, Dhaka-1213, Bangladesh.

3
2.3 Location:
The corporate office &factory are situated in two different places. The Location of
both corporate office &factory are given below:

2.3.1 Dhaka Office:


House #29 (2nd floor), Road #17, Block-E,
Banani, Dhaka - 1213, Bangladesh
Tel : 9861221, 8846376
Web : www.ripongroupbd.com

2.3.2 Head Office & Factory:

Garun, Kunabari, Gazipur, Bangladesh


Tel: +880 02 9297115, 9297175.
Fax: +880 02 9298903
E-Mail: www.ripongroupbd.com

Figure 2.2: GPS location of Ripon Knitwear Ltd Head Office & Factory

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2.4 Bank:
Southeast Bank Limited
Gulshan Branch, 82 CES (F) 1, Gulshan Avenue, Dhaka-1212
Phone- 088-02-9883401-05
Fax-088-9883495
A/C No: 111-000-13768
Swift Code: SEBDBDDHGUL

E-mail: sebdgul@gononet.com

2.5 Factory Contacts Detail:


Managing Derector
MD. Faruk Hossain
Jarun, Konabari, Gazipur
E-mail: faruk@ripongroupbd.com
Phone: 02-9297115

2.6 Sister of Factory


a. Ripon Knitting Ltd:
20 pcs circular knitting Machine &
06 pcs Flat Knit Machine.
Per Month Capacity: 180000 kg

b. Ripon Knitwear Limited (Dyeing):


12 pcs Dyeing Machine,
04 pcs Washing Machine &
04 pcs Tumble Machine.

c. IPSHA Printing:
02 pcs Heat Blest &

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01 pcs Belt Curine Machine.
Per Month Capacity: 200000 kg

d. IPSHA Embroidery:
02 pcs Fortune Embroidery Machine
Per Month Capacity: 70000 kg

e. Ripon Packaging Ind. (PVT) Ltd:


10 pcs Machine-Cartoon Section,

19 Pcs Machine-Sewing Thread Section,


06 Pcs Machine-Offset Section,

13 Pcs Machine-Label Section &

06 pcs Machine-Poly Section

2.7 Company Vision:


Our vision is to mature into a highly reputed manufacturer of garments in the international
market by producing top quality product which conforms & surpasses the customer
expectation.

2.8 Company Mission:


Our mission is to became one of the leading garments manufacturers in Bangladesh in every
aspect of its business & in delivering its obligations as a good corporate citizen to its
customers, employees & owners, public & to the environment.

2.9 Company Focus:


We Focus on production of top quality garments in fully compliant environment meeting
timely delivery.

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2.10 Company Objectives:
Conforms and surpasses the customer expectation, Improve Productivity, Minimize Rejection
Rate, Development of Employees to meet Future Challenges and Continual Improvement.

2.11 Company Code of Conduct:

 Legal Requirements:

As reputed company Ripon Knitwear Ltd. has been maintaining all legal and
statutory requirements of the country.
 Employment:
Company is maintaining wages, hours of work, overtime and other related requirements as
per prevailing law of the country.

 Wages, Pay Slips, Attendance:

Company is maintaining worker’s attendance, wages, pay slips, leave records…etc


electronically through computer software and swift cards.

 Child labor:

Child labor is strictly prohibited in the factory and below 18 years no worker is allowed for
any employment. Birth Certificate, Doctor’s Age determination documents and physical
appearances are verified before offering any employment to any worker.

 Forced Labor:

Forced labor is strictly prohibited in the factory and there is no prisoner, bonded labor or any
kind of forced labor.

 Non Discrimination:

It is Ripon Knitwear Ltd.’s policy to ensure affirmative action in providing equal


opportunities without regard to race, religion, creed, color, sex, age or national origin except
where age or sex is a bona fide occupational qualification. Further it is prohibited to conduct
any kind of maternity test before selection of any female worker for employment.

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 Security Concern:

Company is very much concern about Access Controls, Physical Security, Procedural
Security, Personnel Security and Education & Awareness Training on all security concerns.
Further all measures are in place to prevent any kind of un-authorized or un-identified access
to the factory premises.

 Right of Association:

Workers are allowed to form Lawful Association.

 Harassment & Abuse:

It is the company’s strict policy to make sure no harassment or abuse inside the factory
premises and whoever gets involve or encourage such activities will be dealt immediately
based on company policy for disciplinary actions. Further management of the company has
very positive attitude towards workers’ grievances and takes all grievances very seriously.

2.12 Main Product Manufacturing:

1. T-Shirt 5. Shorts 9. Night dress

2. Polo Shirt 6. Long Pant 10. Pajama

3. Tank Top 7. Hoodies 11. New born baby to


ladies/mens & all kinds of
4. Suit Shirt 8. Cut & Sewn T-shirt
knitted fancy garments.

Table 2.1: Manufactured Products List.

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2.13 Product Sample:

9
Figure 2.3: Product Samples.

2.14 Buyers:

USA

UK

GERMANY

FRANCE

POLAND

SPAIN

ISRIAL

Table 2.2: Buyers List & Brand Logo.

10
2.15 Certifications & Achievements:

Table 2.3: The Achievements & Certificates of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

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2.16 Factory View:

Figure 2.4: Pictures of Factory views.

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CHAPTER: 03
FACTORY UTILIZATION

3.1 Utilization:

Sample Section
CAD Room
Conference room
4 Floor
th
Inspection Room
Sewing Section
Dining
Cantin Room &
Prayer Room.
Sewing Section
Cutting Sewing
3 Floor
rd
Head Office
Fabric inspection
Mini Lab
2nd Floor Sewing Section
Merchandising Department
1st Floor
Finishing Conference Room

Loading / Unloading Area


Yarn/Fabric Store
GF (Ground Floor) Medical Room
Child Care Room
Fire Control Room

Table 3.1: Factory Utilization of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

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3.2 Factory Description:

Unit Existing Area (square feet)


Sewing Area 33000
Cutting Area 10500
Packing Area 10500
New Sewing 11000
Finished Goods 10000
Sample Area 3000
Accessories Store 5000
Office Area 3000
Canteen (4th Floor) 5000
Worker Locker & Changing Area 2000
Factory Front Premises (Loading, 10000
Unloading, Security Post)
Wastage Area, Generator Room, Parking, 10520
Assembly Point
Total Area 112520

Table 3.2: Factory Description of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

 Deep tubewell 100m.t/hour/submersible pump=100m3/hour quantity: 2 nos


 Gas Generator Service 24 hours
 POWER SYSTEM: 480 KVA POWER SUBSTATIONS: 01 SET

14
CHAPTER: 04
MANPOWER MANAGEMENT
4.1 Manpower Organogram:
Managing Director

Chief Operation Officer Director

Manager Senior manager GM-Pdn DGM- Com. Quality Head


Admin\HR

Knit Dyeing Factory work study Quality


manager Manager Manager Manager Manager
.

Knit officer Production Cutting Finishing QA


Manager Manager Manager

Knit Floor in Cutting Finishing Quality


Operator Charge Incharge Supervisor Inspector

Supervisor and line Cutting poly.iron,packer,


Incharge supervisor finishing asst

Operator Or Cutter maker


Helper man

Figure 4.1: Manpower Organogram of Ripon Knitwear Ltd

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4.2 Supporting Department:
a. Personnel Administration
b. HRD
c. Marketing
d. Procurement
e. Finance and accounting
f. Security department

4.3 Management Information System (MIS):


The company has skilled administration, management and marketing team guided by
proficient, dexterous & experienced leaders of offer right solution for the consumers with the
right eminence & with the shortest lead-time for the export market in Bangladesh. The best
use of continuous development of human resources by providing them International standard
equal opportunity is the keys for achieving comprehensive competence in all level of the
organizational hierarchy.

4.3.1 Shifting:

There are three shifts in the industry. So, the shifts are changed at every 8 hours. Shift
Change/ for worker of Security:

 General shift 09:00 am– 05:00 pm


 A Shift 06:00 am – 02:00 pm
 B Shift 02:00 pm – 10:00 pm
 C Shift 10:00 pm – 06:00 am

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4.3.2 Order Flow Sequence:

G.M

A.G.M

D.M

D.A.M

Sr. P.O

P.O

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

Flow Chart 4.1: Oder Flow Sequence of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

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4.4 Duties & Responsibility of Different Post:

4.4.1 Chef Executive officer (CEO)


 To deal with the buyer and merchandiser.

 To set up price for the product.

 To plan apply and control all administrative functions.

 To follow up the instruction of managing director and chairman.

4.4.2 General manager (GM)


 To supervise the personal working under him

 To plan the sequence of production

 To arrange necessary raw materials for the production problems.

 To find out the possible reasons which are responsible for less production
To follow up the instruction of CEO as well.

4.4.3 Senior Production Officer


 Overall supervision of dyeing and finishing section.

 Batch preparation and pH check.

 Dyes and chemicals requisition issue and check

 Write loading/unloading time from machine.

 Program making, sample checking color measurement.

 Control the supervisor, operator, asst. operator and helper of dyeing machine.

 Any other work as and when required.

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4.4.4 Production Officer
 To collect the necessary information and infrastructure from the
previous shift for the smooth running of the section.

 To match production sample with target shade.

 To match production sample lot sample matching next production.

 To observed dyed fabric during finishing running and also after finishing process.

 To identify disputed fabrics and report to PM/Gm for necessary action.

 To discuss with PM about overall production if necessary.

 To sign the store requisition and delivery challenge in the absence of PM

 To execute the overall floor work.

 To maintain loading/unloading paper.

4.4.5 Shift in Charge


 To follow the worker’s movement.

 Should discuss with the production Officer about what is happening.

 To maintain the production sequence.

 To check the sample at certain time interval.

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4.5 Employment Practices:
Minimum Age 18 Years

Minimum Wage 8000 BDT (Including House Rent, Food


Allowance, Transport Allowance & Medical
Allowance)

House Rant Basic * 50%

Bonus (Festival) 2 time per year (50% of Gross Wages)

Leave Practice as per local law Instruction .

Overtime Calculation (Basic /208)X 2

Monthly Working Hour 208 (If working Days 26)

Normal Daily Working Hours 8(After 8 hours it will be treated as a OT)

Maximum weekly OT Hours 12

Job Agreement Employment letter , Hand book & Service


book, ID Card

Holyday Weekly holiday & Festival holiday Total 67


days in a year

Canteen Facility Yes

Lunch time Noon 1.00 PM to 2.00 PM

Table 4.1: Employment Practices of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

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4.6 Health & Safety Practice:
 Free Doctor & Medical facility
 Certified nurse for working hour
 Fully equipped first aid Facility
 Trained first aider
 Fully equipped and trained firefighting and rescue team
 Specialized fire protective instrument
 Emergency power supply system
 Smock Detector & Fire Alarm
 Worker’s Participation Fund

4.7 Law Practice:


 Local & National Labor code
 ILO convention
 Buyer Code of Conduct

21
CHAPTER: 05
KNITTING SECTION

5.1 Knitting section:


Knitting is the method of creating fabric by transforming continuous stands of yarn into a
series of interlocking loops, each raw of such loops hanging from the one immediately
preceding it. Inter-looping consists of forming yarns into loops, each of which is typically
only released after a succeeding loop has been formed and intermeshed with it, so that a
secure ground loop structure is achieved. The loops are also held together by the yarn passing
from one of the next.

5.2 Machines Use for Knitting:


 Single Jersey

 Rib / Interlock

 Three Thread Fleece & Heavy Jersey

 Auto Stripes

 Flat Knit

 Fabrics Inspection

5.2.1 Single Jersey:

It requires only one set of needles. The loops are intermeshed in only one direction so the
appearance of the face and back of the fabric are different
Ex: Plain single jersey, Pique, Birds Eye Pique, Single & Double Lacoste, Popcorn,
Popcorn Lacoste, Fleece, Terry, Heavy Jersey, Herringbone terry, Diagonal Terry,
Double Face, Design Jersey, Y/D Single Jersey, Slub Single Jersey etc.

22
5.2.2 Rib

It also called 'Double-knit’. Rib requires two sets of needles operating in between
each other so that wales of face stitches and wales of back stitches are knitted on
each side of the fabric. Rib fabrics are knitted on machines with two sets of needles.
Ex: (1x1) Rib, (2x2) Rib, (2x1) Rib, (3x1) Rib, (3x2) Rib, (3x3) Rib, (4x1) Rib,
(4x2) Rib, (4x3) Rib, (4x4) Rib, (8x3) Rib, Flat back Rib, Mini waffle, waffle,
Ottoman Rib, Twill Jersey, Bonded, Double face jersey etc.

5.2.3 Interlock
Fabric is produced by using both long and short needles. It has a smooth surface on
both sides.
Ex: Plain Interlock.

5.3 Process Requirements:


In Ripon Knitwear Ltd. three types of machines are used for producing and inspecting
knitted fabrics.

These are:

1) Circular knitting machine (Single& Double Jersey Machine).


2) Flat knitting Machine (Cuff & Collar).
3) Fabric inspection machine

And the whole knitting section is divided in four sections,

1. Circular knitting section


2. Flat knitting section
3. Fabric inspection section
4. Store section

23
5.4 Flow Chart:

5.4.1 Flow Chart of Knitting Process:

Knit Fabric Dyeing


Yarn Dyeing Knitting
Dyeing Finishing

Embroidery Screen Print Allover print Washing

Knit
Knit Knit Garments
Garments Garments

Flow Chart 5.1: Process Flow Chart of Knitting.

24
5.4.2 Flow Chart of Knitting Procedure:

Collect approved Sample and sample parameter



Source the Yarn for required fabric

M/C Cam design according to design

Yarn collection

Cone settings

Yarn feeding into the knitting m/c

Check the stitch length and GSM

Inspection the fabric after making it

Fabric is checked continuously in the production time

Cut the fabric roll according to required production

Send fabric for inspection

Send to the store

Finally, it is delivered into dyeing section for next process

25
5.5 Knitting Machine Layout:

Figure 5.1: Knitting Machine Layout of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

26
5.6 Different machines and their specifications:
There are four types of machines in knitting section of Ripon Knitwear Ltd. These are;

5.6.1 Single Jersey Circular Knitting Machines:


Single Jersey Circular knitting machine
M/C Brand Manufacturer Model No. Diameter Gauge No of No of Needle
No. (inch) Feeder
1 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-2BFA 20 24 60 1508
2 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-2BFA 22 24 66 1659
3 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-2BFA 24 24 72 1810
4 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-2BFA 26 24 78 1960
5 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-2BFA 32 24 96 2413
9 UNITEX U.T.Pte.Ltd UB×3SK 21 24 63 1583
10 UNITEX U.T.Pte.Ltd UB×3SK 23 24 69 1734
11 UNITEX U.T.Pte.Ltd UB×3SK 25 24 75 1885
12 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH2×FA 30 24 90 2262
13 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH2×FA 34 24 102 2564
14 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH2×FA 36 24 108 2714
15 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH2×FA 38 24 152 2865
16 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH2×FA 40 24 120 3016
17 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH2×FA 28 24 84 2111
20 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH2×FA 42 24 126 3167
Table 5.1: Single Jersey Circular Knitting M/C.

Figure 5.2: Single Jersey Circular knitting M/C

27
5.6.2 Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machines:

Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine


M/C Brand Manufacturer Model No. Diameter Gauge No of No of
No. (inch) Feeder Needle
6 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-TAG24 32 18 68 1810
7 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-TAG24 34 18 72 1923
8 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-TAG24 36 18 76 2036
18 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-TAG24 42 18 88 2375
19 FUKAHAMA F.M.Co.Ltd SH-TAG24 40 18 84 2262

Table 5.2: Double Jersey Circular Knitting M/C.

Figure 5.3: Double Jersey Circular Knitting M/C.

28
5.6.3 Engineering Stripe(S/J) Circular Knitting Machines:

Engineering Stripe(S/J) Circular knitting machine


M/C Brand Manufacturer Model No. Diamete Gauge No of No of No of
No. r (inch) Feeder Needle Finger
21 FUKAHARA P.F.Works.Ltd VX- 34 24 84 2564 252
RSY3RE
22 FUKAHARA P.F.Works.Ltd VX- 36 24 84 2714 252
RSY3RE

Table 5.3: Engineering Stipe(S/J) Circular Knitting M/C.

Figure 5.4: Engineering Stripe(S/J) Circular Knitting M/C.

29
5.6.4 Flat-bed Knitting Machines:
Flat-bed Knitting Machine
M/C No. Brand Manufacturer Model No. Length Gauge No of No of
(inch) Feeder Needle
1 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-323D 82 14 6 2240
HENG
2 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-323D 82 14 6 2240
HENG
3 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-323D 82 14 6 2240
HENG
4 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-323D 82 14 6 2240
HENG
5 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-323D 82 14 6 2240
HENG
6 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-323D 82 14 6 2240
HENG
7 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-313 52 14 6 1440
HENG
8 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-313 52 14 6 1440
HENG
9 KAUO K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-313 52 14 6 1440
HENG
10 K.H. K.H.P.Co.Ltd. KH-313 52 14 6 1440

Table 5.4: Flat-bed Knitting M/C.

Figure 5.5: Flat-bed Knitting M/C.

30
5.6.5 knitting Machine Parts:

Yarn passing though the machine and its function is given below:
1. Creel: It holds the yarn package.

2. Guide pipe: It ensures the path way of the yarn from creel zone to

machine (Knot Catcher). It also saves yarn from any unwanted twist with

another.

3. Knot Catcher: It catches removes knot from yarn before knitting.

4. Yarn Tensioner: It supplies yarn to the machine at constant tension.

5. Sensor: The function of sensor is to detect the brakeage of yarn and stop

the machine immediately with the help of stop motion before positive

feeder.

6. Yarn Guide: It guides yarn through the machine.

7. Positive Feeder: Positive feeder holds yarn & control the supply of

the yarn to the machine.

8. Sensor: The function of sensor is to detect the brakeage of yarn and stop

the machine immediately with the help of stop motion after positive

feeder.

9. Yarn Guide: It guides yarn through the machine.

10. Light Detector: Its function is to give signal where yarn becomes broken.

11. Feeder: It supplies the yarn to the needle.

12. Needle: It forms loop.

13. Take down Roller: It takes fabric at a specific tension from the machine.

31
14. Cloth Roller: It winds the cloth

5.7 Classification of Knitting:


Basically There are two type of knitting:

i) Warp knitting
ii) Weft knitting

5.8 Used Yarn:


In Ripon Knitwear Ltd they use types of yarn:
i) Card yarn
ii) Combed yarn
iii) Rotor yarn
iv) P/C (polyester 65%) + cotton 35%)
v) CVC (cotton 60%+Polyester 40%)
vi) Lycra yarn
vii) Viscose
viii) Mélange yarn.
ix) Modal.
x) Organic yarn

5.9 Yarn Count Uses for Knitting:


Types Of Yarn Count
Carded Yarn 18s,20s, 24s,26s,30s,32s,34s,36s
Combed Yarn 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s,30s,32s,34s,36s
Polyester yarn 75,100,150 Denier
Pc ( Polyester 65% + 35% Cotton) 24s, 26s,28s,30s
Rotor Yarn 7,10,12,14,16 Ne
Lycra 20, 30,40,50,70 Denier

Table 5.5: Yarn Count Uses for Knitting.

32
5.10 Different fabric and GSM and Yarn count:

5.10.1 Single Jersey


Fabric Name G.S.M Yarn Count
Single jersey 280 11s
Single jersey 270 12s
Single jersey 240 15s
Single jersey 200 20s
Single jersey 190 24s
Single jersey 180 26s
Single jersey 150 30s
Single jersey 140 32s
Single jersey 120 34s
Single jersey 110 40s

5.10.2 Pique
Fabric Name G.SM Yarn cone
pique 250-260 20s
pique 230-240 24s
pique 210-225 26s
pique 190-205 28s
pique 160-170 32s

5.10.3 1x1 Rib


Fabric Name G.S.M Yarn count
1x1 rib 280-300 20s
1x1 rib 260-280 22s
1x1 rib 240-260 24s
1x1 rib 220-240 26s
1x1 rib 200-220 28s
1x1 rib 180 32s
1x1 rib 170-180 34s
1x1 rib 160 36s

33
5.10.4 Interlock
Fabric name G.S.M Yarn count
Interlock fabric 280-300 28s
Interlock fabric 260-270 30s
Interlock fabric 230-250 32s
Interlock fabric 220-230 34s
Interlock fabric 210-220 36s

5.10.5 2x2 Rib


Fabric Name G.S.M Yarn count
2x2 rib 295-300 24s
2x2 rib 275-290 26s
2x2 rib 255-270 28s
2x2 rib 230-250 30s
2x2 rib 200-220 34s

5.10.6 GSM:
GSM means gram per square meter. GSM is very important parameter for a certain quality of
knit fabrics. The production of Knitted fabric is calculated in weight.

CPI x WPI x SL (M M) x 0.9158


Formula =
Ne
CPI = Course per inch
WPI = Wales per inch
SL = Stitch length

34
Stitch length: Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle
loop and adjacent needle loops or either side of it.

5.11 Fabric Fault:


Whenever a fault occurs during the production of knit- wear, the machine has to be stopped,
thus promoting some loss in productivity. The faulty element needs to be located in order to
be removed, and some repairing procedures are required, depending on the severity of the
damage. The main Fabric faults which can be found in Ripon Knitwear Limited are:

1. Press-off.
2. Miss-stitch.
3. Needle Mark.
4. Sinker Mark.
5. Oil Stain.
6. Crease Mark.
7. Holes.
8. Slubs.
9. Spirility.
10. Broken Needle.
11. Pin Hole.
12. Tight Course.
13. Missing Yarn.
14. Course Yarn.
15. Soiled Fly.
16. Weight variation
17. Twist variation
18. Excessive Hairines
19. Bowing
20.Birdseye.

35
5.12 Common Fabric faults & Causes and Remedies:

5.12.1 Hole:

Figure: Hole.
Causes:
1) Uneven tension on yarn.
2) Improper work of needle latch.
3) Too tight take down mechanism.
4) Imperfect stitch setting.
5) Badly tied knot.
6) Wrong positioning of feeder.
Remedies:
1) Adjusting the yarn tension.
2) Change the needle.
3) Control take down mechanism.
4) Proper stitch setting.
5) Knot should be given properly.
6) Correctly set of yarn feeder.

5.12.2 Slub:

Figure: Slub.

36
Causes:
1) Low quality yarn.
Remedies:
1) Use good quality yarn.

5.12.3 Loop:

Figure: Loop.
Causes:
1) Uneven tension.
2) Faulty needle latch.
3) Wrong settings of feeder ring.
4) Wrongly placed cylinder.
Remedies:
1) Control the tension
2) Replace the faulty needle.
3) Correct the feeder ring setting.
4) Perfectly placed the cylinder.

5.12.4 Oil Spot:

Figure: Oil spot.

37
Causes:
1) Excessive supply of oil.
2) Bleeding of oil due to unwanted mechanism.
Remedies:
1) Lubrication must be in control.
2) Proper cleaning of machine at proper time.

5.12.5 Oil Line:

Figure: Oil line.


Causes
1) Excessive oil.
2) Bleeding of oil.
Remedies:
1) Control the flow of oil.
2) Remove the faulty/broken parts.

5.12.6 Press off:

Figure: Press off.

38
Causes:
1) If both needle & sinker remain inactive simultaneously during operation,
press off will take place.
2) Loss take-down tension.
Remedies:
1) Machine should be stopped as early as possible and checking should be done
for both needle and sinker.
2) Control the take-down tension

5.12.7 Broken Needle:

Figure: Needle Break


Causes:
1) High yarn tension.
2) Breakage of latch or butt of the needle.
3) Old needle.
Remedies:
1) Control the tension.
2) Remove faulty needle.
3) Replace old needle.

5.12.8 Needle Line:

Figure: Needle line.

39
Causes:
1) Broken latch or butt.
2) Too high tension.
3) Wrong feeder setting.
Remedies:
1) Replace the faulty needle.
2) Control the tension.
3) Perfect settings of feeder.

5.12.9 Lycra out:

Figure: Lycra out.


Causes:
1) If needle fails to catch the any one spandex thread, this problem will occur.

Remedies:
1) The settings of spandex attachment and the observation of spandex delivery should
be done carefully.

5.13 Calculation:

5.13.1 Production
 Production =
RPM × No. of Feeders × No . of Needles× Stitc h Lengt h ( mm ) × Efficiency % × 60 x 8
10× 2.54 ×36 × 840 ×YarnCount ( Ne ) ×2.2046

17 ×108 ×2714 × 2.85× 1× 60× 8


=
10 × 2.54 ×36 ×840 × 24 ×2.2046

40
= 167.73 kg/Shift

5.13.2 Efficiency
Actual Production
 Efficiency = = × 100%
Calculated Production
110
= × 100%
167.73
= 65.58%

5.13.3 Acceptance Calculation:


 Points per 100 yard square =

Total point scored in roll × 3600 × 100


Total inspected yards × Cuttable fabric width (inch).

The acceptance level of grading is given below-


Up to 20 points/100 yard A grade

21-30 points/100 yards B grade

31-40 points/100 yards C grade

Above rejected

5.14 Quality Management:


Quality management is very important matter in fabric manufacturing. In order to maintain
best quality, fabric inspection is done in every factory during fabric production. Various
defects in the fabric might change the appearance or affect of these desired characteristics. So
the produced fabric must be examined thoroughly before releasing it for dispatch so that
proper quality goods reach the customers. There are various fabric inspection system. In
ripon Knitwear Ltd., 4- Point System is being used for fabric inspection.

41
5.15 Fabric inspection machine:
Machine name: Fabric Inspection Machine
Model no: K1
Serial no: AKK-001

Figure : Fabric Inspection Machine.

Figure 5.6: Fabric Inspection M/C of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

5.16 Quality control process:


There are two types of quality control process:
1. Online quality control process.
2. Offline quality control process.

5.16.1 Online quality control process:


This type of quality control process is done during the continuous production of fabric.
Factors that are being checked in online quality control process:
1. Fabric fault.
2. Machine RPM.
3. Machine setting.
4. Fabric design.

42
5. Fabric color.

5.16.2 Offline quality control process:


This process is done after completing the production. Steps of off-line quality control
process:

Figure : Step 1.
Step 1: First of all fabric is cut down as roll form with the help of knife from the
machine.

Figure: Step 2
Step 2: Then the details of the fabric is written on the roll(such as M/C dia and Gauge,
fabric structure, yarn type, lot number, buyer name, GSM, stitch length).

43
Figure: Step 3
Step 3: Then the rolled fabric is taken to the inspection machine with the help of trolley.

Figure: Step 4
Step 4: After that the fabric is passed through the inspection machine and Faults are
detected.

Figure: Step 5
Step 5: The lab inspector write down the faults details on a paper and put grade on the
inspected fabric.

Figure: Step 6
Step 6: Rejected fabric is separated for the decision of their further process and accepted
fabric is folded again.

44
CHAPTER: 06
BATCHING SECTION

6.1 Batching:
Batching is the receiving section of grey fabric and sending section of grey fabric to the
dyeing section which will dye. Batching is the process to get ready the fabrics which should
be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order. 

6.2 Batch Card:


Batch card contains

 Programmed/Job no
 Shade Indication
 Buyer/Brand Name
 Style no
 Lot no
 Specific Treatment of That Fabric
 Wash type
 Finish type
 Fabric Construction
 Tube diameter
 Required Width
 Required GSM
 Issue Date etc.

45
6.3 Batch Process Flow Chart: 
Flow chart of Batching Section is given bellow: 

Fabric Received & stored 



Fabric Divided according to Diameter after buyer’s recommendation 

Supervisor batches the fabric according to quantity by Calculation 

Inspection 

Send for Dyeing

6.4 Batch preparation:


Production planning for dyeing is called Batch Plan. According to the batch number, color,
width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand, this section gives
some „T‟ cards. „T‟ cards are serialized according to the priority of delivery. The batches
and „T‟ cards are also serialized as to dye light shade at first and lastly the dark shades, since
faulty shade and can be converted to dark color later.

6.5 Calculation for Reel speed:


Let,

Fabric weight = 1000kg

Per nozzle fabric weight =250kg

Fabric Diameter (open) = 56 inch

Cycle time or Dwell time = 2.5-3.0 m per minute

46
G.S.M =180

We know,

GSM = gram / meter2

= gram / (Length × Diameter)

Or, Length = gram / (GSM × Diameter)

= (250×1000×100) / (56×2.54×180)

= 976 meters

Fabric Length/ nozzle= (Fabric weight(kg) × 1000 × 100)/ Fabric GSM × Fabric diameter ˝ ×
2.54 cm × number of nozzle

So, Reel Speed = per nozzle Fabric length / Cycle time

= 976 / 3 meter/minute

= 325 meter/minute

6.6 Batch Card:

Figure6.1: Batch Card

47
6.7 Aims / Purpose of Batch Section: 
1. To receive the grey fabrics roll from knitting section or other source. 
2. To turn out the tubular fabric to safe the face side of the fabric from any type of friction
during dyeing. 
3. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria… … …

 Order sheet (Receive from buyer)


 Dyeing shade
 M/c available
 Type of fabrics (100% cotton, PC, CVC etc.)
 Emergency
4. To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card. 
5. To keep records for every previous dyeing.

Figure 6.2: Fabric Inspection for batching

48
CHAPTER: 07
DYEING SECTION

7.1 Introduction:
Dyeing is the most important for garment. it’s impossible to fulfill the buyer requirement
without dye, a dye is coloring substance, either form natural or synthetic that imparts it color
throughout a material by penetration.

7.2 Elements of A Dyeing Machine:


 Main Vessel or Chamber
 Winch roller or Reel
 Heat Exchanger
 Nozzle
 Reserve Tank
 Chemical dosing tank
 Controlling unit or Processor
 Fabric Plaiter
 Different types of motors & Valves
 Main Pump
 Utility lines. Ex: water line, drain line, steam inlet.

Figure7.1: Dyeing floor of Ripon Knitwear Ltd

49
Ripon Knitwear Dyeing is covered by the 4 sample dyeing machines and 6 dyeing machines
& 2 Turning machines and every machines are Taiwan branded. 24 hours running our dyeing
section by the three shift 3 hundred workers are working in our dyeing section.

7.3 Different types of Dyeing machines and their capacity:


There are 6 M/C used in Ripon Knitwear Ltd for bulk dye production. These M/C Brand &
capacity show below-
Brand Capacity
Athena by SALAVOS 250kg

Athena by SALAVOS 500kG


Athena by SALAVOS 750kg

FOUNG’S 1000kg
FOUNG’S 250 kg

FOUNG’S 700kg

Figure7.2: Bulk Dyeing M/C

50
There are 4 sample dyeing machine in Ripon Knitwear Ltd. M/C No, brand and capacity
show below:
Brand Capacity
FOUNG’S 30kg
FOUNG’S 10kg
FOUNG’S 30kg
SALAVOS 50kg

Figure 7.3: Sample Dyeing M/C

51
7.4 Flow chart:

7.4.1 Flow Chat for dyeing:

Grey fabric received from knitting section

Batching

Select M/C No

Fabric loading

Select production program

Pre treatment

Select recipe for dyeing

Recipe confirm by DM/ SPO

Dyeing

Post treatment

Unload

52
7.4.2 Knit fabric Dying process (Cotton):
Fabric loading

Scouring (1500c, 60 min)

Cooling (5 min)

Scouring hot (800c, 10 min)

Cooling (5 min)

Leveling agent

Run time 20 min

Color dosing (600c, 30-50 min)

Soda dosing (20 min run time)

If shade of then

Bath drop (BD) water drain

BD wash (600c, 20-30 min)

53

Soaping

Wash until water clean

Unload

Softner procedure

PH check

Acetic acid

Softner dosing at 45-60

Run time (10-20 min)

Unload.

7.4.3 Process Flow Chart For Pretreatment:


Scouring, Bleaching & Enzyme treatment including in pre-treatment i.e.

Scouring + Bleaching

Enzyme.

This procedure already I have shown.

54
7.4.4 Process Flow chart for after-treatment:
Acetic Acid

Soaping agent (if Dark) or Only Hot (if light)

Enzyme

Fixing

Softner (450c, 20 min)

7.4.5 Process flow chart of final Inspection:


After completing finishing process here firstly cheek the shade as per buyer standard with
dimensional Stability from lab

Cheek dia with fabric while fabric weight/G.S.M

Cheek fabric surface or appearance as per buyer standard.

Every Roll with every meter cheek as per 4 point system

Make a report

If ok then ready for delivery

If not ok then identify the fault


.
If it is knitting fault, then inform the knitting department by job card and mail requested the
fabric for replacement.

If it is dyeing fault & if we make sure that it is reprocess able then we give job card to dyeing
department for correction & if it is not ok reprocessable then we reject the quantity.

55
7.5 Raw Material for dyeing:
Raw Materials used in the dyeing section are:
1. Grey fabric
2. Dyes
3. Chemicals.

7.6 Grey Fabrics:


Following types of grey fabrics are dyed-
1. Single jersey 6. 11 rib
2. Single Jersey 7. 22 rib
3. Single Jersey 8. P.K fabric
4. Double Lacoste 9. Different types of collar & cuff
5. Fleece

7.7 Recipe of Different stage in Dyeing:

7.7.1 Recipe for machine’s heavy wash:

Detergent 0.5 gm/L


Caustic soda 1 gm/L
Hydrous 2 gm/L
Time 60min
Temperature 90.c

7.7.2 Recipe for scouring:


Actually scouring depends or the types of the fiber, fabric, fiber color, fiber cleanliness, twist
& count of yarn and fabric construction.

56
Detergent 1.3%
Wetting agent 0.2 gm/L
Stabilizer 0.2 gm/L
Anti-creasing agent 0.3 gm/L
Caustic 2%
Hydrogen per oxide 2%
Sequestering agent 0.2%
Temperature & time 1020C, 60 min.
Recipe for scouring: (for cotton)

7.7.3 Recipe for Enzyme:


The enzyme is used in the washing to soften the fabric and also remove yarn.

Recipe for enzyme treatment: (For Cotton)


Acetic acid 2 gm/L
Enzyme .75 gm/L
PH check 4.5-5.5
Temperature & time 550C. 60 min

7.7.4 Recipe for Reduction (Polestar):

Caustic 2 gm/L
Hydrous 2.5 M/L
Temperature & time 900C, 20 min

7.7.5 Bleaching:
Bleaching is the process for improving the whiteness of textile materials with removing the
natural coloring matters.

57
Detergent 1 gm/L
Hydrogen per oxide (H2O2) 3 gm/L
Stabilizer 1 gm/L
Sequestering agent 1 gm/L
Detergent 1 gm/L
Wetting agent 1 gm/L
Temperature & time 1050C, 60 min.
Recipe for Bleaching:

7.7.6 The fiber which can be dyed by reactive dye:


1) Cotton, Rayon and other cellulose fibers.
2) Nylon & wool fiber.
3) Silk and acetate fiber.

7.8 Dyed fabric finishing:


There are two types of dyed fabric finishing. Like below
 Mechanical Finished
a) Temporary
b) Permanent
 Chemical Finished
a) Temporary
b) Durable

7.8.1 Mechanical Finished:


Mechanical finishing is a general term to describe process carried out on a prepared and dyed
fabric in order to improve its suitability for the desire end use.

58
7.8.2 Name of Mechanical Finished
1. Calendaring
2. Raising
3. Dimensional change/ Compressive shrinkage

7.9 Finishing Machines:


In Ripon Knitwear Ltd. They are using Following Finishing M/C:

7.9.1 Turning M/C:

Figure: Turning M/C


Purpose:
Tubular Fabric Turning Machine is suitable for tubular fabric of cotton, wool, silk, chemical
fiber to process automatic turning before dyeing or washing.

7.9.2 Squeezer Machine:

Figure: Squeezer Machine

59
Purpose:
Slitter machine is used for tubular knit fabric to make it in open form. In open form
fabric finishing line; slitter machine is used after hydro-extractor, de-watering and drying
machine. 

7.9.3 Compactor Machine:

Figure: compactor machine

Purpose:
 To control the shrinkage of the fabric.
 To control fabric width.
 To adjust the GSM of the fabric.
 To achieve fabric smoothness.

7.10 Common Dyeing Faults with Their Remedies:

7.10.1 Uneven Dyeing:


i) Uneven pretreatment (Scouring & bleaching)
ii) Improper color dosing
iii) Uneven heat setting in case of synthetic fiber.
Remedies:
i) By ensuring even pretreatment.
ii) By ensuring heat-setting in case of synthetic fiber

60
7.10.2 Batch to Batch Shade Variation:
i) Fluctuation of Temperature.
ii) Batch to Batch weight variation of dyes & chemicals.
iii) Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
i) Use standard dyes and chemicals
ii) Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
iii) Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemical at the same time and
temperature in the process.

7.10.3 Patchy dyeing effect:


i) Faulty infection of alkali.
ii) Improper addition of color.
iii) Due to the hardness of water.
iv) Due to improper salt addition.
Remedies:
i) By ensuring proper pre treatment
ii) Proper dosing of dyes and chemical
iii) Proper salt addition

7.10.4 Roll to roll variation/meter to meter variation:


i) Improper dyes solubility.
ii) Hardness of water.
iii) Faulty machine speed.
Remedies:
i) Use standard dyes & chemical
ii) Proper machine speed.
iii) Use & soft water.

7.10.5. Crease mark cause:


i) Shock cooling of synthetic material
ii) Due to high speed M/C running

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Remedies:
i) Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature.
ii) Reducing the M/C Load.

7.10.6. Dye Spot:


i) Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
ii) Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
i) By proper dissolving of dyes & chemical.

7.10.7 Softner Mark:


i) Improper mixing of the softner.
ii) Improper running time the fabric during application of softner.
Remedies:
i. Proper mixing of the softner before addition.

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CHAPTER: 08
SAMPLE SECTION

8.1 Sample Section:


Sampling process is the most important department in a garments factory. Without proper
sample one cannot achieve enough order. Sample is the prototype or model of the garments,
upon what the buyer can decide on how and whether to confirm the order or not.

8.2 Flow Chart:


There is the sample procedures after pattern making, they (Ripon Knitwear Ltd.) are as
follows:
Sourcing the Fabric and Accessories for making the Garment 
↓ 
Cutting (For Sample Only) 
↓ 
Embellishment 
↓ 
Sewing 
↓ 
Iron 
↓ 
Quality Control 
↓ 
Recheck Form 
↓ 
Buyer QC 
↓ 
Forwarding from the Merchandiser 
↓ 
Sending Sample to the Buyer

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Figure 8.1: Sample Room of Ripon knitwear Ltd.

8.3 Types of sample:


1. Proto or development sample
2. Size set/ Grade/ Fitting sample
3. Additional sample
4. Contract seal/ seal sample
5. Pre-Production sample
6. Production sample
7. Sales Man Sample
8. Rack Sample
9. Counter sample

8.3.1 Proto Sample:


This is the first stage of the sample. Someone called development sample. In this stage, to
convert the pattern into actual garments.

8.3.2 Size set/ Fitting sample:


In this stage, correction of the proto sample. Someone called grading sample. Actually in this
stage- to make the fit the styling of the garments.

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8.3.3 Seal sample:
It’s another name is contract seal. In this stage, to gain approval before the bulk production.

8.3.4 PP Sample:
PP sample means pre-production sample. It’s also to gain approval before the bulk
Production.

8.3.5 Sales man Sample or SMS Sample:


This sample to make for show room. To gain approval for bulk production also.

8.4 Types of Machine are used in Sample department:

S/L Description Brand Country of Quantity


Origin
1 Overlock PEGASUS Japan 4
(2 Needle 4 Thread,
2Looper)
2 Over Lock PEGASUS Japan 3
(3 Needle 6 Thread,
2Looper)
3 Flat Lock (Flat Bed) PEGASUS Japan 2
4 Flat Lock (Cylinder Bed) PEGASUS Japan 2
5 Plain M/C (Single Needle) BROTHER Japan 5
Total 16

Table 8.1: Sample, Machine List of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

8.5 Sample production Capacity:

The sample department produces 190 Pcs of samples everyday including SMS.
About 4000Pcs of sample dispatches every month with negligible rate of rejection of 2%.

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66
CHAPTER: 09
PATTERN SECTION

9.1 Pattern section:


Pattern is a hard paper which indicates the individual component of a garment according to
the design. A pattern, from the French patron, is type of theme of recurring events of or
objects, sometimes referred to as elements of a set. These elements repeat in a predictable
manner. It can be a template or model which can be used to generate things or parts of a
thing, especially if the created have enough in common for the underlying pattern to be
inferred, in which case the things are said to exhibit the unique pattern.

9.2 Pattern types:


Pattern is two types:
1. Working pattern
2. Production Pattern

9.2.1 Working Pattern:


The pattern which is made for sample making is called working pattern. It is made for a
particular style with net dimension or with allowance. That is
Working = Basic Block + Allowance.

9.2.2 Production Pattern:


To make a pattern by following the approved sample along with allowance is necessary
before production. These patterns with allowance are called production pattern.

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9.3 Pattern Making Flow Chart:

Tec-pack Received from DPD Department



Sketching Pattern

Plotting/Printing

Pattern Cutting Manually

Pattern Development

Pattern Grading

9.4 Pattern Making Method:


Pattern can be made both manually and automatically. In the manual method, pattern is made
in hand and then digitized by digitizer machine. On the other hand, automatic pattern is made
by using CAD software.

9.4.1 Hardware and Software used in Pattern Making:


1. CAD Software, Garber Garments Technology (GGT).
2. Marker making software- 2 pcs.
3. Garber Digitizer- 1 pcs.
4. Pattern design software (PDS), Optitex- 4 pcs.

9.4.2 Manually Equipment used in pattern Making:


1. Marker Paper
2. Pattern Board
3. Pencils
4. Rubber
5. Measurement Tape
6. Set Square
7. Metric Grading Squares
8. French Curves

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CHAPTER: 10
CUTTING SECTION
10.1 Cutting Section:
Cutting is one of the major process in garments manufacturing. Here garments parts are
cutting according to the pattern. In garments cutting department, a process flow chart have to
maintained to send the right measurement parts in the next process for making quality
garments. As its importance in garments manufacturing, a process flow chart for garments
cutting department is presented in this article.

10.2 Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Department:


Pattern received from pattern department

Cutting ratio received from merchandiser

Marker making

Fabric received from the store

Fabric Checking

Fabric Spreading

Marker placing on to the lay

Cutting the fabric

Numbering

Checking

Sorting and Bundling

Send to the sewing department

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10.3 Equipment of Cutting Section:
➢ Cutting Table
➢ Perforated Paper
➢ Marker
➢ Auto Stitching M/C
➢ GSM Tester
➢ GSM Cutter
➢ Electric Balance

10.3.1 Received approval Pattern:


Cutting Department received approval pattern from pattern department.

10.3.2 Received Marker paper:


Cutting department received marker from CAD department.

10.3.3 Trail cutting:


Trail cutting do the short quantity of cutting. It can do for sample cutting.

10.3.4 Development:
Finished the trial cut of fabric cutting manager will take decision if any measurement need
development or not.

10.3.5 Spreading:
Fabric spreading is a process as marker length and width for the easy process of cutting. It
can do-
 Save time for the garment.
 Minimize production cost.

Figure10.1: Fabric Spreading.

70
10.3.6 Laying Fabric:
In Ripon Knitwear ltd they are laying fabrics manually and computerized Gerber M/C. Easily
can find fabric fault & shading uses for laying.

10.3.7 Laying marker paper:


After completing the laying fabric then lay the marker paper.

10.3.8 Attach Clamp:


Finishing lying attach the clamp with marker paper.

10.3.9 Cutting:
Two method of cutting. Such as –
i) Manually
ii) Computerized.
In Ripon Knitwear ltd they cut fabrics manually by scissor and computerized cutting use
Gerber machine.

10.3.10 Part Change:


After completion of cutting they change parts as per garments panel wise, size wise, roll wise
and color wise.

10.3.11 Numbering:
After completing the changing parts, they can do the numbering as per size, color wise.

10.3.12 Bundling:
Completion the Numbering then bundle all panel of garments as per size and color wise.

10.3.13 Embellishment:
If any embellishment, then go to the concern department.

10.3.14 Cheek embellishment:


Cutting Quality cheek all the embellishment of garments.

71
10.4 Fabric Lay height standard:
 Single jersey = 7cm
Number of lay = 120-130 pcs
 1 x 1 rib = 9-10 cm
The number of lay = 110-120 pcs
 Pique interlock = 10-12 cm
The number of lay = 90 pcs
 Fleece =12-14 cm
The number of lay = 70 pcs

Cutting capacity: 25000-0000 pcs per day.

Figure10.2: Fabric Lay

10.4.1 Fabric relaxation:


Lycra = 24 hours
1x1 rib = 6-7 hours
2x2 rib =24 hours

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10.5 Description of Cutting Machine:

S/L.No. Name Specification


01 Straight knife Knife height:10”
Stroke:4

02 Round knife Dia:11Cm


RPM: 1500

03 Cutting Table No.of Table:03


04 Replace Table No.of Table:01

Table 10.1: List of Cutting Knife and cutting tables.

Figure10.3: Fabric cutting.

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10.6 Cutting Plan Preparation:

Parameter:
Packing Ratio: As per pack
Fabric quantity = 2000 kg
Consumption/garment=0.48 kg
Hence total pcs = 2000/0.48
= 4166 pcs
Ratio of packing:
XS               M                     L Total Pcs
500           2000              2000 = 4500

Cut Ratio = 4166/4500


= 0.9257

Total No. of XS = 500 × 0.9257 = 462


Total No. of M = 2000 × 0.9257 = 1852
Total No. of XS = 500 × 0.9257 = 1852
Total No. of Garments for cut at a time=4166pcs

10.6.1 Formula of cutting efficiency:


Actual cutting
Cutting efficiency = ×100
Target garment cutting
4166
= ×100
4500
=92.578 %

10.7 Cutting Inspection:

10.7.1After cutting inspection:


i. Pattern check
ii. Notches/cut mark
iii. Miss cut
iv. Matching place
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10.7.2 Before cutting inspection:
i. Table Mark
ii. Shading
iii. Splices
iv. Tension
v. Leaning
vi. Count
vii. Marker
viii. Marker Placement
ix. Narrow goods

10.8 Cutting faults:


i. Shade variation
ii. Cutting mistake
iii. Fabric faults
iv. Numbering faults
v. Size mistake
vi. Imprecision cutting

75
CHAPTER: 11
SEWING SECTION
11.1 Sewing Section:
The sewing process is the attachment of different parts of the cut pieces. In this work place
there are many operators who perform single operation. One operator may make only straight
seams, while another may make sleeve inserts. Yet another two operations can sew the waist
seams, and make buttonholes. All this factor decides what parts of garment can be sewn at
that station. Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are
assembled together to give the final form to the clothing.
11.2 Flow Chart of Sewing Department:
Input token

AQC sample and necessary paper arrange

Cutting (size wise)

Store requisition and other

Cutting to take input by counting

Store to take thread

Sewing to put the accessories

To arrange the PP meeting

Lay out submit

Sewing input

Out body confirm by reporter
Size wise finishing input

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11.2.1 Input Token:
sewing department receives input token from planning department before bulk production.

11.2.2 Input Cutting Part:


After receive token sewing department collect cut fabric to show the token is cutting
department. When cut panels will complete in
Cutting department then cutting parts will input in sewing floor.

11.2.3 Accessories Collect from Store:


Sewing department collect accessories from store department before the bulk
production.

11.2.4 Pre-production meeting:


All the concern person of the department in garments sector present who are involved in
meeting for bulk production is called pre- production meeting

11.2.5 Line Layout:


According to product design, production manager will do line layout in attend supervisor
technician and quality in charge.

11.2.6 Inline Inspection:


After completion of the garments the front of every line will do the inspection of every
garment.

11.3 Output:
Completing the inspection, the gate then output garments.

11.3.2 Send washing:


As per buyer requirement if any wash go to the concern department.

11.3.3 Finishing:
When sewing & wash function complete then sent to the finishing department.

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11.4 The Different Machines:
There are many different machines used in Ripon Knitwear Ltd. As like

Figure 11.1: Single needle lockstitch sewing machine

Purpose: It can be used for making any type of apparel especially it is used for collar, front
placket, bottom hem etc.

Figure 11.2: Double needle lockstitch sewing machine

Purpose: Used to sew the loop of the pants.

78
Figure 11.3: Feed of the arm

Purpose: Used in sewing the side seam of pants

Figure11.4: KANSAI sewing machine

Purpose: Used to join the waistband with the pant.

79
Figure 11.5: Flat lock sewing machine

Purpose: Normally used in the hemline of T-shirt.

Figure 11.6: Pocket Facing

Purpose: Used to attach the pocket facing with the pocket of a pant

Figure 11.7: Button Attaching machine

Purpose: Used to attach buttons.

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Figure 11.8: Button–Hole machine

Purpose: Used to make the button hole of a pant

Figure 11.9: Overlock sewing machine (3/4/5 threads)

Purpose: Used to connect two pieces of fabric and prevent it from fraying.

Figure 11.10: Bartack machine


Purpose: Used to Increase the strength in corner of pockets

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11.5 Sewing Machine List:

Table 11.1: Sewing Machines List of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

Name of the machine Number of the machine


One Needle Lock Stitch M/C 189
One Needle Lock Stitch Auto M/C 45
One Needle Lock Stitch Vertical M/C 4
Three Thread Over Lock Stitch M/C 4
Four Thread Over Lock Stitch M/C 154
Five Thread Over Lock Stitch M/C 2
Cylindered Normal Flat Lock M/C 27
Cylindered Normal Compressor Flat Lock 5
M/C
Cylindered, Compressor Auto Computer 2
Flat L
Small Cylindered Compressor Flat Lock M 4
Small Cylindered Flat Lock M 4
Flat Bed ”D” Set Flat Lock Machine 19
Flat Bed ”F” Set Flat Lock Machine 9
Button Hole Machine Computer 4
Feet of The Arm Machine 4
11 Needle P.M.D. Nisho Apparel Machine 1
Pecotting Nisho Apparel Machine 2
Button Stitch Machine Computer 4
Barteck Machine Computer 1
Paiping Cutting Machine 5
Ricone Machine 1
Snap Button Machine M-CM_818 2

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11.6 Sewing Faults:

1. seam pucker
2. Broker stitch
3. Staggered stitch
4. slipped stitch
5. Variable stitch density

83
CHAPTER: 12
STORE DEPARTMENT

12.1 Store Department: 


The fabric stores department is centralized in apparel industry and all the fabric comes to this
unit first from the supplier and audited here and kept until it is distributed to other units. For
an export oriented and bulk production Garment Industry. it is essential to maintain a well-
organized & well equipped inventory system. The main responsibility of this department is to
store all the raw material necessary to produce garments. This department is sub divided into
three sections. Store keeper follows a strong and appropriate working procedure. Their work
process flow is given below

12.2 Working Flow Chart of Store Department in Garment Industry:

Receiving Product 
↓ 
Inventory 
↓ 
Inspection of product 
↓ 
Shade segregation 
↓ 
Issuing Product 
↓ 
Sustaining Balance 
↓ 
Closing Summery

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12.3 Item Stored in the Store Department:

1.Button
2.Zipper
3.Label
4.Jackron
5.eyelet
6.polybag
7.Hanger
8.Carton
9.Gum Tape
10.Scotch Tape
11.Tag Pin
12.Lock Pin
13.Twill Tape
14.Velcrow
15.Plain Elastic
16. Hole Elastic
17. Price Tag
18.Rider
19.Sticker
20.Hang Tag
21. Sewing Thread and Mainly
22. Fabric

85
CHAPTER: 13
FINISHING SECTION

13.1 Finishing Section:


Garments finishing is an important section in readymade garments sector. It’s the last section
of garments department. As all the others section of garments manufacturing, garments
finishing section has also followed a process flow chart, which has explained below

13.2 Process Flow Chart of Garments Finishing:

Sewn garments received in finishing section



Initial quality check

Spot removing if there’s any spot

Ironing or pressing

Inspection

Hang tag attaching

Folding

Poly bag

Metal check

Packaging or Cartooning

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S/L No. Process Procedure
01 Sewn garments received in finishing Here, sewn garments are received for
section finishing the garments.
02 Initial quality check Sewn garments are checked here by the
quality controller. If found major sewing
problems then garments sent again to the
sewing section for rectification.
03 Spot removing if there’s any spot Sometimes garments contain various
types of spots which are removed here
carefully.
04 Ironing or pressing It’s one of the important processes in
garments finishing. Here garments are
ironed by following measurement chart
of that garments.
05 Inspection After completing ironing or finishing,
garments are inspected again here by
quality controller to confirm the correct
measurement of the garments.
06 Hang tag attaching In this section, hang tag have to attach
with the garments.
07 Folding After completing all the above processes,
garments are folded here.
08 Poly bag Garments are poly bagged here to keep
the garments dust, dirt and other
impurities free. send the garments safely
in to the buyer.
09 Metal check In this section, garments should be
passed through a metal detector machine
to identify metal lies in the garments.
10 Packaging or cartooning Finally all the garments should pack to
send the garments safely in to the buyer.
Table 13.1: All the processes of garments Finishing

87
13.3 Garment Inspection:

13.3.1 Primary Inspection sequence for ladies jagging before pack:


Loop cutting

Thread cutting

Loop area check

Back pocket thread cutting

Back pocket quality check


Bottom hem trimming

Bottom hem check

Body turning

Inside trimming

Inside quality check

Body turning

13.3.2 Final Inspection includes the following tasks:


Measurement

Final Get-up
(QC batch sealing)

QA Audit

AQL Identification

88
Note: If any kinds of fault are found then it is sent to alter section so that rectification of the
fault is done.
                                         

13.4 AQL:
A statistical measure of the maximum number of defective goods considered acceptable in a
particular sample size. If the acceptable quality level (AQL) is not reached for a particular
sampling of goods, manufacturers will review the various parameters in the production
process to determine the areas causing the defects. 
AQL 1.5 means-No more than 1.5% defective items in the whole order quantity will be
accepted.
Example:
In a lot size of = 1201 – 3200
Sample Size = 50
For AQL 1.5% Acceptable = 2 defects Reject= 3 defect

89
Lot size Normal AQL 1.5 AQL 2.5 AQL 4.0
sampling A
LEVEL-1 Ac Re Ac Re Ac Re
2-8 2 0 1 0 1 0 1
9-15 2 0 1 0 1 0 1
16-25 3 0 1 0 1 0 1
26-50 5 0 1 0 1 0 1
51-90 5 0 1 0 1 0 1
91-150 8 0 1 0 1 1 2
151-280 13 0 1 1 2 1 2
281-500 20 1 2 1 2 2 3
501-1200 32 1 2 2 3 3 4
1201-3200 50 2 3 3 4 5 6
3201-10000 80 3 4 5 6 7 8
10001-35000 125 5 6 7 8 10 11
35001- 200 7 8 10 11 14 15
150000
150001- 315 10 11 14 15 21 22
500000
500001- up 500 14 15 21 22 21 22

Table 13.2: AQL table format for General Inspection

90
13.4.1 AQL Table for general inspection:
At CFDL AQL 2.5% is always maintained.

13.4.2 If AQL is failed then the following problems are introduced:


i. On time shipment is not achieved
ii. Loss of commitment
iii. Management has to face economic losses
iv. Running production is hampered
v. Reschedule is necessary
vi. Working hour is to be increased
vii. Workers have to be given overtime incentive

91
CHAPTER: 14
MERCHANDISING SECTION

14.1 Merchandising:
Merchandising is a business on marketing activities responsible for ensuring a products
description both quality and quantity. Merchandising means total responsibility of a
Merchandiser.

14.2 Merchandiser:
 A man who collect order from customer sourcing raw materials Production on time
with quality and maintains lead time.
 Garments merchandising means buying raw materials & accessories, producing
garments, maintaining required quality level and exporting the garments within
scheduled time.

14.2.1 Most importance things for a Merchandiser is-


 Communication.
 Planning
 Production follow Up

In Ripon knitwear Ltd, merchandising department divided in three divisions. Such as-

 Sales & Distribution (SD)


 Material & Management (MM)
 Production & Planning (PP)

92
14.2.2 How to work SD, MM & PP Together:

SD MM

Sent to the buyer Create Material and


Joint cell and Monitoring SD, MM&PP vendor/master

Create Contract, S/O

Vendor Selection
Evaluation, Price
Embellishment, Wash, print Conformation
Create BOM

Sub-contract
PO Verification
MRP Run Create PR, PO
Bulk booking Fabrics

PO Release Select Lot Size


and booking
Accessoroes
(Fabrics &
Accessories)
Approval
Approval Jointly Development and
SD and Quality bulk booking Fabrics
dept.
Goods received
and issue

Accounting Commercial
activities and FICO Procedure

93
Settled vendor Inventory and
PP
claim material control

SMS Sample Production FR (For SAP Check list Line


collect & Analysis & Planning line) Allocation

Commercial Delivery Sewing + Production


shipment (Booking Planning finishing+ PIS follw up

14.3 Organogram of Merchandising Department:

Manager Merchandising

Senior Merchandiser Senior Buyer Co-ordinator

Assistant Merchandiser Junior Buyer Coordinator

Junior Merchandiser

14.4 Job Responsibilities of Merchandising in Ripon Knitwear Ltd.

14.4.1 Development & Costing:


 Reviewing the development packs received from buyer.
 Passing packs to sample section for development sample.
 Clarify all necessary information with buyer as much as possible.
 Follow up on the development sample deadline.
 Work out the initial costing & final costing.
 Price negotiation with buyer.
 Follow up with buyer registration the feedback of the sample & costing.

94
14.4.2 Order Confirmation:
 Checking all the details in the order sheet once received from buyer.
 Communicate with buyer registration any discrepancy in the order sheet.
 Quoting the delivery dates to buyer after checking factory’s capacity situation.
 Signing & passing order confirmation sheet to buyer.
 Passing L/C request from to buyer.
 Passing the correct order sheet to all concerned department; i.e. planning, production,
commercial etc.

14.4.3 Sampling:
 Sending sample request to sample section.
 Updating sample section regarding different sample requirement of buyer at various
stage (proto, sales man, Fit, counter card, pp sample etc.)
 Arranging fabrics & trims for sales sample.
 Follow up sales sample until buyer’s hand.
 Checking the quantity requirement of each sample.
 Passing the necessary paper work for each sample.
 Follow up with buyer registration each sample comments & passing to sample section
for updating pattern.

14.4.4 Bulk Fabric:


 Work out the consumption for each style from marker provided from CAD.
 Provide fabric booking to the fabric department with correct quantity & all
information.
 Follow up on the lab dips/strike off submission & chase approval comments.
 Follow up on the fabric delivery against critical path.

14.4.5 Bulk Trim:


 Preparing the cost sheet/checklist for individual trim require for style.
 Preparing care level layout & send for approval.
 Submitting required trims to buyer for approval.

95
 Provide booking for individuals trims to the approved source.
 Chasing the P/I from trim suppliers.
 Monitoring the L/C or TT payment.
 Follow up with trim suppliers to ensure on time delivery.

14.4.6 Embellishment:
 Chasing the artwork for all print/embroidery from buyer.
 Developing the artwork, checking the strike off & pass it to buyer.
 Checking the capacity of print/embroidery plant in advance & booked accordingly.
 Embellishment price negotiation
 Submitting bulk embellishment strike off for buyer approval.
 Passing approved copy of the strike off to the respective plant.
 Approving first pc (embellishment) for starting bulk product.
 Monitoring the panels sent & receives dates to ensure smooth production flow.
 Claim amount calculation for excess wastage & prohibited substance.

14.4.7 Filing & Corresponds:


 Maintaining style file for all running orders.
 General correspondences with buyer & suppliers.
 Updating buyer for audit schedule, production status, etc.

14.4.8 Production & Planning:


 Passing the correct work sheet to all concerned department.
 Following up bulk production.
 Requesting commercial team to take necessary steps to ship the garments.
 Internal meeting with production, planning, quality, commercial & HRD.
 Following up bulk inspection & collecting inspection report and pass it to concern
commercial.
 Following up export document sending.
 Checking basic information’s of export document.
 Sending delivery performance report to buyer with shipment details.

96
14.4.9 Quality:
 Discuss quality standard of individual buyer with quality & production team.
 Monitor the quality of merchandise &update production ant quality team for
production required quality garments.

14.5 Garment Costing:


In order to achieve perfect garment costing, one must know about all the activities
including purchase of fabrics, sewing, packing, transport, overheads, etc.

14.5.1 Cost Sheet & Consumption Sheet Preparation:

Table: The freight charges for the Men's Basic T-shirt. Price of garment estimation is
given
Particulars Light colors Medium colors Dark colors
34's combed yarn Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00
Fabric cost per Tk.38.06 Tk.40.13 Tk.44.27
garment
Cost of Trims Tk.0.85 Tk.0.85 Tk.0.85
CMT Charges Tk.11.00 Tk.11.00 Tk.11.00
Cost of accessories Tk.1.35 Tk.1.35 Tk.1.35
Rejection of Tk.1.50 Tk.1.50 Tk.1.50
(commonly 3%)
garments
Cost of Garment Tk.52.76 Tk.54.83 Tk.58.97
Local Transport Tk.1.00 Tk.1.00 Tk.1.00
Profit@15% appro. Tk.7.90 Tk.8.20 Tk.8.90
Commission/ pc Tk.2.00 Tk.2.00 Tk.2.00

14.5.2 Shipping Charges:


For men's basic T-shirt, the delivery terms in the buyer enquiry as 'FOB'. So sea freight
charges are not added. But the local transport with the cost of garment has to be added.
Finally, we have to convert the Indian rupee value to USD or Euro.

97
During the fixation of FOB price of a garment following notes are to be followed carefully:
1. Cost of fabrics/Dzn. garments.
2. Cost of Accessories/Dzn.garments.
3. C.M (Cost of Manufacturing) /Dzn. Garments.
4. Cost of embellishment (if any) likes print, embroidery, etc
5. Commercial cost.6. Commission (if any)

14.5.3 Fabrics Price:


Knit fabric price is the sum of the below factors-
1. Yarn price per kg (approx. $6.40)
2. Fabric price per yard (approx. $0.15)
3. Dyeing price per kg (approx. $1.5)
4. Finishing price per kg (approx. $0.50)
Thus the fabric price per kg comes ($6.40+$0.15+$1.5+$0.50)= $8.55
Fabrics consumption for a European T-Shirt is 3.00 kgs per dozon.
So fabrics price per dozon is (3.00 * 8.55) = $25.65

14.5.4 Trimming Price:


Trims cover all the trims used in the garments except the basic fabric. There are
hundreds of items used to manufacture the garments, proper selection of trims and its
quality are very important for styling, otherwise the garment maybe rejected or returned
by the customers. As our assignment is based on basic T-Shirt, normally care label,
main label, size label, sewing thread, poly bag, price ticket, carton, tag pin, gum tape,
etc trim are used in a basic T-Shirt. Like, normally the trim cost per dozen comes
approx. $2.00 for basic T-Shirt.

14.5.5 CM Calculation:
CM means cost of cutting to making. It includes the cost of cutting, cost of sewing and
the cost of packing. It also includes the overhead cost of the plant and the profit margin.
Like, Generally CM per dozen of a basic T-Shirt is $5.00

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14.5.6 Final garments cost & order confirmation:
Now the final garments cost per dozen is the sum of fabrics cost, trimming cost, CM
cost, other embellishment cost & commercial cost. So as example if a basic style is
taken- the garments price per dozen comes ($25.65+$2.00+$5.00+$1.00)=$33.65 T-
Shirt per piece is ($33.65/12)= $2.81 Thus we make manufacturing price & negotiate
this price with Buyer. After negotiate price with buyer we receive order confirmation &
L/C from buyer to execute the order.

14.6 Consumption Preparation:

14.6.1 Fabric consumption:


The garments manufactured in many sizes to fit for everybody. Generally, they are in
sizes Small (S), Medium (M), Large (L), Extra-large (XL) and Double Extra Large
(XXL). The quantity ratio or assortment can be any one of the following approximate
ratio.
As the price is the same for all these sizes of garments, the author has taken the center size
large (L) for average calculation. Generally, the quantity of L size will be higher or equal to
the quantity of each of other sizes.

14.6.2 Men's Basic T-shirt


Description: Men's Basic T-shirt-short sleeves- 100% Cotton 140 GSM Single jersey -
1 x 1 ribs at neck - solid dyed - light, medium and dark colours in equal ratio.
Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL Ratio: 1: 2: 2: 2: 1
Export carton: 7 ply -120 GSM virgin corrugated - sea worthy. Cartons are to be
strapped with 2 nylon straps.
Measurements in cm: (Finished garment)
Size: L
Chest - 60 cm
Length - 78 cm
Sleeve length - 24 cm
Neck rib width - 3 cm Hem - 3 cm
Patterns are generally made with the seam allowance and cutting allowance. Generally,
12 cm is added with the total of body length and sleeve length.
That is,

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Fabric consumption = (Body length + Sleeve length + allowance) * (Chest +
allowance) * 2 * GSM /10000
= (70 + 24 + 12) * (60 + 3) * 2 * 140/10000
= 187 grams
Body & Sleeves: 187 grams
Neck rib: 10 grams (approximately)
Gross weight: 197 grams Therefore, the fabric consumption per garment is 197 grams.

14.6.3 Gross weight & net Weight:


The above weight is the gross weight of fabric. It means the weight of the fabric bits cut
in tubular form without taking shapes is called gross weight. This is the consumed fabric
for the particular garment. Hence costing is to be made as per this gross weight. The
weight of the cut pieces after taking the shape according to the pattern is called net
weight of fabric.
Fabric cost per kg (in Rs) (all charges approximately):

Cost of fabric per kg is calculated and given in

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Particulars Light colours Medium colours Dark colours

34's combed yarn Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00 Tk.135.00

Knitting charge Tk.8.00 Tk.8.00 Tk.8.00

Dyeing charge Tk.35.00 Tk.45.00 Tk.55.00

Compacting charge Tk.6.00 Tk.6.00 Tk.6.00

Fabric wastage @ 5% Tk.9.20 Tk.9.70 Tk.10.70

Fabric cost per kg Tk.193.20 Tk.203.70 Tk.224.70

Fabric consumption 197 gms 197 gms 197 gms


per garment

Fabric cost per Tk.38.06 Tk.40.13 Tk.44.27


garment

14.6.4 Cost of Trims:


The accessories which are attached to the garments are called Trims. Now the author have
taken Men's Basic T-shirts, as example. Let us see what are the trims required for this style.
Labels: Woven main label (2.5 cm width x 7 cm length): Tk 0.35
Polyester printed wash care label: Single colour print: Tk 0.10
Hang tag: Tk 0.40
So the total cost of trims is Tk 0.85 per garment.

14.6.5 Cost of Accessories:

Polybags: Normal - Tk 0.30 per garment


Master Polybag: Tk 2 per master polybags to contain 8 garments - Tk 0.25 per garment.
Export carton: Normal: Tk. 40 per carton to contain 48 garments - Tk 0.80 per garment.
So the total cost of accessories is Tk 1.35 per garment.

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Consumption calculation of fabrics, Accessories & cartoons Fabric consumption
calculation:

Body length = 73 cm.


Chest = 60cm.
Sleeve length = 22cm GSM = 220
2(B. L+S.L) * Chest * GSM
= 2(73+22) * 60 * 220 / 10000000
= 190 * 60 * 220 / 10000000
= 1.9 * .60 * .22
= 0.250 kg/pes *12
= 3.0096 kg/DZ + 10% (10% Wastage)
= 3.0096 kg/DZ +0.30
= 3.3096 kg/DZ Carton

14.7 Fabric Booking:

After receiving order confirmation from buyer merchandisers chase buyer to provide
PO sheet (purchase order) which includes colour & size wise break down of the total
quantity.

Then they will go for denim/knit or the necessary fabrics booking. In case of knit, yarn is the
first element of knit fabric. So to make fabric they have to book suitable yarn from home or
abroad. To import yarn from abroad it need approx. 44/45 days and to buyer yarn from
Bangladesh it need approx. 20/30 days. After receive yarn we go for fabrics knitting and then
coloring of the fabrics. After dyed fabrics is ready to make garments. In case of denim the
process is same but some cases it fluctuates in terms of price.

14.8 Trim Booking:


After getting trim information from Buyer they have to develop the same to get approval.
Then they book trims from respective supplier to get cheaper price to minimize the cost. And,

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for shipment process they need to store every trim in-house so that production cannot get
hampered.
The all processes go parallel when an order is confirmed. When the size set sample is
confirmed, the processing of production starts.

CHAPTER: 15
COMPLIANCE

15.1 Compliance:
Compliance means conformity of certain standard.
Some contents of compliance with ILO and Bangladesh Labor Laws are given below:

 No child labors.

 No forced labor.

 Transport facilities of worker.

 Hours of work.

 Voluntary over time.

 Intervals for rest.

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 Weekly holidays.

 Annual leave.

 Festival holidays & leaves with bonus.

 Maternity protection.

 Worker’s welfare committee.

 Mineral drinking water.

 Sanitary facilities.

 First aid box.

 Canteen services.

 Day care center.

 Health care activities for the worker & employ company doctor.

 Fire extinguisher each & every floor & conduct fire drill at least 12 times a
year.

 Other safety department (no discrimination)

 Compensation cases department.

 The development of compliance programmer.

 Environment developer.

 Smoking free zone.

 Disciplinary practices/Harassment.

 Freedom of association and right to collective bargaining.

 Welfare facilities.

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15.2 Compliance of Ripon Knitwear Ltd.
Here is a list of compliance in which some points maintained fully and some are partially.

 Compensative for holiday

 Leave with wages

 Health register

 Time care

 Accident register

 Workman register

 Equal remuneration

 National festival holiday

 Overtime register

 Labor welfare

 Weekly holiday

 Sexual harassment

 Child labor abolition policy

 Anti-discrimination policy

 Zero abasement policy

 Working hour policy

 Hiring/recruitment policy

 Environment policy

 Security policy

 Buyers code of conduct

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 Health and safety committee

 Canteen

15.2.1 Health:
 Drinking water at least 4.5 1/days/employee

 Cup availability

 Drinking water supply

 Water cooler, heater available in canteen

 Drinking water sign in native language and English locate min


20 feet away from work place

 Drinking water vassal clean at once in a week

 Water reserve at least once a weak

15.2.2 Toilet:
 Separate toilet from women and men

 A set of proper policy and lock facility

 Urinal accommodation

 Effective water sewage system

 Toilet soap

 Water soap

 Dust bins

 Toilet while washed one in every four months

 Daily cleaning log sheet

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 No-smoking signs

 Ladies/gents toilet signs both in native language and English

 Disposal of wastes and effluent.

15.2.3 Fire:
 Sufficient fire extinguisher and active

 Access are without hindrance

 Fire sign in both languages

 Photo of fire certified person

 Emergency exit

15.2.4 Safety Guard:


 Metal glows on good condition

 Rubber mats & ironers

 First trained employees

 Ironers wearing sleepers

 Motor/needle guard

 Eye guard

 Mask

 Nurse

 Doctor

 Medicine

 Medicine issuing register

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 Welfare officer

 First aid box

15.3.1 Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP):

ETP is essential to purify the waste water which comes from different types of manufacturing
industry like textile, ternary, dyes and chemical manufacturing industry, pharmaceuticals etc.
Different environment saving organizations are trying to protect the environment from the
harmful effect of effluent.

15.3.2 Effect of ETP on environment:


 Destroys the quantity of water body which effect in marine life.
 Harmful effect on sewerage handling system.
 Harmful effect on agriculture land.
 Dissolved solid accelerates algal growth.
 Dissolved solid cause disease & discomfort.
 Dissolved solid increases the hardness of water.
 Suspended solid increase the turbidity.
 Suspended solid interfere with the light transmitting property.

15.3.3 Standard of ETP for discharge to environment:


 pH : 5.5-9.0
 Temperature : Less than 40⁰C
 Suspended solid : Less than 100mg/Litre
 Dissolved solid : Less than 210mg/ Litre
 BOD : Less than 100mg/ Litre
 COD : Less than 250mg/ Litre
 Dissolved oxygen : Less than 5mg/ Litre
 Phenolic Compound : Less than 5mg/ Litre
 Chromium : Less than 2mg/ Litre

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 Sulphide : Less than 2mg/ Litre
 Oil & Grease : Less than 10mg/ Litre

15.3.3 Process sequence of ETP:


Main Inlet: Effluent from the dye house comes to the main inlet & before that
primary filtration is done. Primary filtration is done to remove the fabric
fragment from the liquor. Net screen is used to do this operation. In this stage
pH of the water is quite high around 10 and temperature is 35⁰C.

Chemical Mixing Tank: Then the effluent is transferred to the chemical mixing
tank for the correction of pH and to coagulate the dyes and other chemical that
effluent keeps. Following chemicals are commonly used in water treatment.
1. Lime powder: It is used to clarify the water. But correspondingly it
increases the pH of water.
2. Ferrous Sulphate: Function of Ferrous Sulphate is to lower the pH that
is to clarify the water increased by the lime powder.
3. Hydrochloric Acid: It is used to correct the pH from 10 to around 7.
4. Polymer: It is used to coagulate the chemical and produce sludge.
5. Anti-Foaming Agent: This agent reduces the foam through the treatment

Clarify Tank: Then the effluent is taken out from the chemical mixing tank to
clarify tank. Here sludge and water becomes separated. Water is taken to
Aeration tank and sludge is taken to Sludge tank.

Aeration Tank: Here water gets contact with some bacteria and dissolved solid is
separated.

Tube Settler Tank: This tank is a special type of tank that contains a
large number of perforated tube. Water makes collusion with the tube and
comparatively higher weight molecule PPT and stick to the aid of the
tube.

Less clear water Tank: Then the water is taken out from tube settler tank to less
clean water tank in order to filter it. Then this water is passed through two filter
ARF (Activated Resign Filter)/Sand filter and ACF (Activated Carbon Filter) one
after another.

Treated Water Tank: Then the water is collected to the treated water tank

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and then this water becomes ready to discharge.

Filter Vessel: It consists of a number of filters. Sludge are forced to run


through the vessel and then dried up.

Equalizer: Water treatment plant of Ripon knitwear ltd starts with Equalizer.
Here fragment of cloth are screened and removed. . In this stage pH of the water
is quite high around 10 and temperature is 35⁰C. DO is 2.3.

Storage and Homozinity Tank: All the effluents are taken out form the
equalizer tank. Here the homozygous mixtures of effluents are produced &
stored. No chemical added here but only air is blown.

Neutralization Tank: Effluent are taken from the previous tank and
neutralized by the addition of Sulphonic acid. After neutralization pH
downs to 7.

Distribution Tank: The function of distribution tank is to distribute all the


effluent to Biological Oxidation tank.

Biological Oxidation Tank: Here some oxidative bacterial is used. Here


dissolved oxygen increases from 2.5 to 5.5. Here water loses his temperature.

Decoloring Tank: Discoloring chemical is to coagulate all the solid material and dyes.

Sedimentation Tank: Here sludge and water are separated. Water are
taken out and discharged to nature. Sludge is taken off to sludge return
pump.
Sludge Return Pump: Residual water are taken off from sludge and sent to
distributor. Then sludge is transferred to Excess Sludge tank. Sludge is stored
here before filtration.

Filtration: Sludge are filtered and dryed.

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CHAPTER: 16
IMPACT ON INTERNSHIP

16.1 Definition:

 A structured work experience related to a student's major and/or career goal


 An experience that should enhance a student's academic, career, and personal
development
 Supervised by a professional in the field
 An experience that can be one academic term (summer, spring, fall) or multiple
academic terms in length
 Paid or unpaid, part-time or full-time
 An experience that is mutually agreed upon by the student, supervisor and/or faculty
member
 Meets registration requirements for 0 credit hour or academic internship course

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 It’s important to note that to qualify as an internship the position does not have to be
labeled “internship”. Many part time jobs, volunteer opportunities, or even summer jobs can
qualify as an internship. Internships might also be called a practicum or co-op.

16.2 Benefits of an Internship:


Career Exploration
 Learn about a career field from the inside and decide if this is the right career field
 Work alongside a professional in chosen career area
 Observe the work place and see if it matches expectations

16.3 Leadership and Skill Development:


 Learn new skills and add to knowledge base while gaining confidence in abilities
 Opportunity to practice communication and teamwork skills
 Gain industry knowledge first hand from an organization and professionals
 Provide evidence that have initiative, are reliable, and have a sense of responsibility
 Apply some of the ideas learned in school and provide a bridge between school and
the professional world
 Achieve a sense of accomplishment by contributing to an organization

16.4 Networking and Establishing Mentors and References:


 Meet new people and practice networking skills while establishing a network of
professional contacts, mentors, and references
 Open to door to advice for the next steps to take on your career path

16.5 Resume Enhancements:


 Gain valuable experience and accomplishments to add to your resume and/or enhance your
application to Graduate School
 Create an advantage over other job or graduate school applicants Potential for a full time job
offer at the end of the internship based on performance

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CHAPTER: 17
CONCLUSION

In conclusion I can say that this internship report is really essential for every student of
business studies to get idea about textile industry. By completing this report I have got overall
idea of RMG sector and these may be helpful to know about the technical and management
knowledge of garments industry also these sector related organizations. This is a huge sector
and yet to discover the whole.

I want to thank my department Head for giving me great opportunity of learning. This
Internship program will help me in the further challenges of life. I try my best to make this
project enriched with lots of apparel related documents. Ripon Knitwear Ltd. is really a good
experience for me because every person of there so much helpful and give me the proper
methods of practical learning. So, at last, there is a hope of eradicating all the obstacles and
become the leader of garment industries in near future.

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