Professional Documents
Culture Documents
TUSSAR
BHAGALPUR
GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION
HISTORY
• Copperish Colour
Jhuri
Khewa
Ghicha
Katiya
Balkal/Danti – Spun Yarn Khewa – Yarn reeled from tussar cocoons
prepared from the peduncles that are not damaged. Also called Desi
of the tussar cocoon Tussar
Twill Weave
Mostly Natural;
Black, Red, Yellow
Desi Tussar /
Desi Tussar
CONTEMPORARY BHAGALPUR SAREES
Block prints, Extra Weft
Designs,dInterwoven
Designs, Big Borders, Zari
d
Buti Designs
d Desi Tussar
ChineseTussar/
PlaindWeave
Khewa/ Desi Thickness of tussar in the cocoon varies. The middle portion comprising of 60% of fibre is of
tussar similar thickness. This 60% fibre reeled from 5-6 undamaged tussar cocoons is called Khewa
Dupion –Malda Mulberry silk reeled from double cocoons; It is rough and irregular
& Bangalore Malda Dupion is light in weight, more fluffy and higher in price by 300/- compared to
Bangalore Dupion; So used to make light weighted dupion sarees
Bhagalpur Eri Silk yarn prepared from a mix of reeled mulberry silk and spun mulberry silk
CONT.
Moonga Spun china tussar yarn is called moonga in bhagalpur; Not to be confused with assam muga silk
Linen Linen of count 60 s and 80s, 1/2 ply is used in Bhagalpur sarees
Noil Silk yarn spun from the short fibre waste produced during the making of spun silk
Spun yarn prepared from the pierced cocoons /wastage of mulberry silk.
Matka Earlier they used to spun the yarn with the help of a matka and so the name
FABRIC VARIETY
- 99% of the time the tussar used today in the warp is China Tussar
- With China Tussar as warp they have all the below fabric combinations
- China Tussar / China Tussar : This combination is difficult to weave with hand as the yarn is very thin
and gives an uneven look if different pressures are used while beating
- China Tussar / Khewa
- China Tussar / Ghicha
- China Tussar / Dupion
- China Tussar / Staple
- China Tussar / Bhagalpur Eri
- China Tussar / Moonga
- China Tussar / Linen
- China Tussar / Matka
- China Tussar / Cotton
CONT.
- Khewa / Khewa: This combination is extinct today because today’s reelers have lost the knowledge of reeling fine
even yarn out of the tussar cocoons. Earlier days the yarn so finely reeled that the khewa could be use both as
weft and warp
- The below combinations with khewa in the warp is now made by using an unusual amount of starch and
making the yarn very stiff and even for weaving. After weaving, a wooden hammer called ‘kundi’ is used to beat
the saree to remove the stiffness and make it soft
- Khewa / Staple
- Khewa / Noil
- Khewa / Ghicha
- Linen / Linen: This combination is now only made in power loom because of the demand for high production
and to reduce the costs.
COSTING
- Most bhagalpur sarees use tussar and its variants as raw material
- Noil silk, zari are usually used in the extra weft designs
- Each saree costing is different and is based on its composition , design
Time taken for production of replenishment or design development orders is nearly same