Department of Cosmetology and

Aromology
Lecture 4

Hair care cosmetics

Lector Dr. Yudina Yulia

 Questions
 Definition and classification of hair care
cosmetics
 Shampoo, classification and requirements
 Main ingredients of shampoo
 Technology of shampoo production
 Quality control of shampoo
 HAIR CARE COSMETICS

 Hair cleansing cosmetics consist of

shampoo and rinse (rinse-off conditioner)
which remove dirt from the scalp and hair,
and keep it in a clean condition.
 After washing the hair with a shampoo, a
rinse is used to make it easy to manage.
 Shampoo

 Shampoo is a hair-wash cosmetic used to

remove dirt from the scalp and the hair, treat
dandruff and itchiness and maintain the hair
in a clean and beautiful condition.
 Shampoo Market
• Overall Market
– Hair care market estimated ~ $40 Billion
worldwide

– Amount of money spent in US on

Shampoo/conditioner

• $2.26 billion (Food, Drug, Mass market)*

• *Does not include Walmart

 Shampoo Market
• Types of shampoo (marketing)
– Normal
– Extra body (volumizing, thickening, etc)
– Moisturizing (smoothing, shine, restore)
– Strengthening
– Curl
– 2 in 1
– Color treated
– Color Enhancing
– Baby (tear-free)
– Natural
 Shampoo Market
• Specialty
– Anti-dandruff
– Anti-lice
– Hair loss treatments

• Significantly Different
– Powdered shampoos
– No-rinse shampoo
– Co-washing
 Qualities required for shampoos and their
categories
Although shampoos have many different functions they must all
have the following qualities:

They must have an appropriate cleansing ability.

They must produce a lasting, rich, creamy lather.

They must protect the hair from friction damage during washing.

The hair must have a natural luster and an appropriate softness

after it has been washed.
They must be very safe with respect to the scalp, hair and eyes.
Additional functions of shampoos
 Oil shampoo and cream shampoo, in which an oil component has
been added to enhance the feeling obtained after the hair has
been washed.
 Conditioning shampoo which prevents damage to the hair during
washing.
 Anti-dandruff shampoo is very effective in preventing dandruff
and itchiness.
 Mild shampoo is less irritating to the scalp and the hair.
 Two-in-one type shampoo incorporating a rinse function as well
(reduces friction on the surface of the hair, prevents static
electricity, protects the hair, etc.).
 Shampoo has a combination of the above functions.
 Detergency
• Two types of “dirt” in hair
– Solid particulate
– Oily deposits

• Solid particulates
– From pollution, hair products
– Adhere via Van der Waals forces
– Anionics & non-ionics increase hydrophylicity of surface
 Detergency
• How surfactants remove liquids
– Remove dirt & grease from surfaces
– Mechanism
• Surfactant orients along oil/water interface
• This lifts oil off surface suspending in solution
• Rinse water removes the oil micelle
 Wetting
• Breaks down the inherent surface tension
of water
• Water with surfactant can spread better on
the hair

Without Surfactant With Surfactant

 Dispersing
• Particles are suspended in the shampoo /
water solution
• They are removed upon rinsing
 Main ingredients of shampoo
SURFACTANTS
 Anionic surfactants
 Amphoteric surfactants
 Cationic surfactants
 Nonionic surfactants
 Surfactant Solutions
• Depending on concentration different
structures are formed

• Simple shampoos are basically surfactant

solutions (no oils)
 Surfactant Functions
• Key in Shampoos
– Cleaning / Detergency
– Wetting
– Dispersing
– Foaming
– Thickening
– Conditioning

• Other functions
– Emulsification
– Solubilization
– Penetration enhancement
– Antimicrobial activity
– Opacification
 Anionic surfactants
The functions
*deffatting effect;
*are used very widely as a foaming detergent for
shampoo;
*have high cleansing power.
The proportion(%)
20-30%
The ingredients
Sodium Lauril Sulfate, Sodium Laurel Sulfate, Acyl
methyl Laurates, аlkyl sulfates and polyoxyethylene
alkyl ether sulfates, sodium, ammonium and
triethanolamine salt surfactants.
 Amphoteric surfactants
The functions
 are used in combination with anionic surfactants
to make the shampoo safer and to enhance
thickening and so forth;
 has less lathering and cleansing ability;
 especially with respect to the eyes and skin.
The proportion(%)
10-20%
The ingredients
 Imidazolinium betaine, alkylallanin,
phospholipids (lecithin).
Drawbacks
Can be irritating
Drying to hair
 Nonionic surfactants
The functions
act as a lathering enhancer and is used to supplement the effect
of anionic surfactants;
used to enhance lather stability ;
stability at low temperatures (prevention of freezing and
solidification);
detangling effect;
glossing effect.
The proportion(%)
1-4%
The ingredients
Fatty acid alkylolamides, POE sorbitan fatty acid esters, sorbitan
fatty acid esters, POE-hardened castor oil ester

Drawbacks
Safety issues
More expensive
Do not foam well on their own
 Cationic surfactants
The functions
Antistatic effect
Conditioning effect
Deodorizing effect

The proportion(%)
1-4%
The ingredients
Cationic polymers, conditioning polymers,
quaternary ammonia derivative
 Thickening agent
The functions
Viscosity building
Good feeling on use
Easy to manage
The proportion(%)
1,5-3%
The ingredients
Sodium alginate, beeswax, paraffin, cellulose
derivatives, pectin, carboxyvinyl polymer,
acrylate polymers, sodium magnesium silicate
 Fatting components
The functions
detangling effect;
glossing effect.
The proportion(%)
1-2%
The ingredients
natural /vegetable oil: corn oil, jojoba oil, olive
oil, almond oil, cocoa butter, macadamia nut oil,
avocado oil, sunflower oil, evening primrose oil
 Hydrophilic matters
The functions
Good feeling when used.
Dissolution.
Humectants effect
The proportion(%)
5-10%
The ingredients
Glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-
butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (300, 400,
1500, 4000) and other polyhydric alcohols, sorbit etc.
 Buffers
The functions
Adjustment pH
The proportion(%)
pH = 5,5-6,5
The ingredients
Citric acid, sodium citrate, lactic acid,
sodium lactate, sodium hydroxide,
triethanolamine etc.
 Bioactive agents proportion(%) -
1-5%
Antioxidants: dibutyl-hydroxytoluene,
vitamin E, vitamin A
Prevent dandruff and itchiness: tri-
clocarban, sulfur, salicylic acid, zinc
pyrithione (Z-pt), isopropyl methyl phenol.
Pharmaceutical agents
vitamins, UV absorbents,
bactericidal agent, anti-inflammatory, animal
and plant extracts, placenta liquid
Perfumes proportion(%) – 1%
Geraniol, Linalool, etc
Colorants proportion(%) – 0,1%
permitted colors, pigments
Preservatives proportion(%) – 1%
parabens, sorbic acid, isopropylmethyl phenol,
germabene, etc.
Purified water: ion exchange water
 Basic types of Shampoos
• Normal
• Volumizing
• Moisturizing
• 2 in 1
• Baby
• Natural
 Shampoo Performance
Shampoo Type Comparison

10
9
8
Rating (10 best)

7
6 Foam Quality
5 Conditioning
4 Harshness
3
2
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Normal Shampoo Formula
 General manufacturing methods
for
shampoos

1. Dissolve the anionic surfactants in the purified

water (40-70 C) to make the water phase.
2. Addition of amphoteric surfactants, cationic
surfactants, nonionic surfactants.
3. To mix and gradual cooling (to 35°C).
4. Addition of thickening agent into the shampoo.
5. Addition of perfume and colorants.
6. Adjustment pH.
7. Qualitative control
8. To put into containers
 Qualitative control
 Appearance, color, fragrance
 pH (3,5-8,5)
 Foaming capacity.
 Foam-holding capacity.
 Bulk quantity of anionic ingredients
 Bulk quantity of dry material